Cycle Touring Georgia (2)
23 August – 8 September
2025
15 Days – 478 km
PHOTOS
23-24 August - Pattaya,
Thailand – Tbilisi, Georgia
After a whirlwind few days
in Thailand, I have finally touched down in the ancient caravan town of Tbilisi,
Georgia. One glaringly clear thing is that much has changed since my first
visit in May 2008! This transcontinental country, with its location at the
intersection of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has always been a significant trade
route between Asia and Europe. Its strategic location not only enriches its
culture but also tells tales of a turbulent history, marked by the rise and
fall of empires and bouts of conflict.
Even though I declared I’m
venturing into a different continent, it feels like Asia still has a hold on
me! I anticipate lingering in this vibrant region for at least the next month
or two, as there’s a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be uncovered. But
for now, all I crave is sleep. Between the two back-to-back 4-hour flights and
a gruelling 7-hour layover in Mumbai, I’ve barely closed my eyes. Airports, no
matter how much they try to lure you in with comfort and charm, will forever
remain spaces where dreams go to die. Fortunately, my humble abode in Tbilisi
turned out to be a real gem where I felt I had been transported back in time.
25 August - Tblisi
I woke up feeling refreshed, as if I’d been cocooned in a deep slumber, only to realise that the clock was reading 5:30 AM. The three-hour time difference between Southeast Asia and the Caucasus had worked in my favour! Eager to embrace the day, I brewed a steaming cup of coffee that filled the air with its rich aroma. Soon, I stepped out into the vibrant streets of Tbilisi, eager to uncover the secrets and stories that this enchanting city has to offer. The morning light danced off the buildings, and I could feel the pulse of the city beckoning me to explore!
Tbilisi is an old city established in the 5th century, and its complex history is reflected in its buildings. Wandering through the old town, I was transported back to my memories from 17 years ago. The cobbled streets twisted and turned, revealing crumbling old buildings that stood defiantly, held together by timber supports and stories untold. Clotheslines sagged overhead, swaying gently in the breeze, creating a charming patchwork against the backdrop of faded facades.
Amidst this historical charm, the modern pulse of Tbilisi is palpable. A massive renovation project is underway to rescue the old buildings. Still, it’s heartwarming to see elderly ladies clad in black, making their way to the market with a slow shuffle, engaged in quiet conversations with neighbours. Their presence feels like a delightful echo from another time, a reminder that in some corners of the world, life moves in its own, unhurried rhythm.
One of the intriguing aspects of Georgian culture is the perceived aloofness of its people. I often find that I am greeted with serious expressions, as smiles and casual conversation tend to be reserved for acquaintances. Direct interaction with strangers is less common unless there is a specific reason for it, and smiling is not a customary gesture towards people you don’t know. I recognise that this behaviour is not indicative of coldness or rudeness; rather, it reflects different social norms. Engaging in light banter with strangers can be viewed as insincere, which I believe is a remnant of the Soviet era when public displays of excessive cheerfulness were discouraged. It provides a fascinating glimpse into their society.
At the heart of Georgian
food culture lies Khachapuri, a beloved dish that embodies the essence of
Georgian comfort food. Picture a warm bread boat, its crust perfectly crispy on
the outside and soft on the inside, filled to the brim with a melty mixture of
local cheeses and topped with a luscious egg that blends seamlessly into the
warm cheese.
Today, I enjoyed Penovani
Khachapuri, a variant that takes it up a notch with its flaky, layered pastry
that envelops the cheese filling. The delicate crunch of the outside perfectly
contrasts with the rich, gooey cheese within, making every mouthful a delightful
treat.
Another staple of Georgian
cuisine is Khinkali, which are delightful dumplings that come in various
fillings. Whether it's filled with savoury seasoned meat, creamy cheese, earthy
mushrooms, or hearty potatoes, each dumpling is a little packet of joy.
Today's lunch was Pelmeni
in a Pot. The clay pot is filled with dumplings, swimming in a rich, fragrant
broth that has been mixed with tangy sour cream. The pot is covered with a
delicate layer of dough, baked to golden perfection, creating a warm and
comforting dish.
27 August – Tbilisi –
Mtskheta - 30 Km
I finally managed to tear myself away from the embrace of Tbilisi, a city that had stolen my heart. Initially, I was filled with trepidation about escaping the bustling chaos, heavy traffic, steep hills, and the labyrinthine cobbled streets. However, my worries melted away as I set off at the crack of dawn—well, for me, that meant getting on the road just after eight! I raced downhill toward the Mtkvari River and was delighted to find the streets blissfully quiet. It turns out that in Tbilisi, shops don’t really open until well past nine, with many not opening until noon.
Not long into my ride, disaster struck—I lost a screw from my front luggage rack! I suspected the shop hadn’t tightened all the screws as they should have. Thankfully, a few cable ties came to my rescue, but now I’m on a mission to find a more permanent solution.
As I pedalled, I was continually awestruck by its landscapes: the distant misty mountains, wooded ravines, waterfalls and ancient castles perched high on hills made it look almost medieval. The Jvari Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, stood majestically atop a rocky cliff. According to legend, a cross was placed on that very spot in the early 4th century. However, the stunning structure we see now was built between 585 and 605 AD, setting the stage for Georgian and Armenian ecclesiastical architecture.
Then, just around the bend, my heart skipped a beat as I caught sight of Mtskheta, the ancient capital. This remarkable village, founded in the 5th century and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, seemed almost surreal. Once a fortified city and the heart of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia, it unfolded before my eyes like a storybook.
As I ambled through the ancient city, I found myself standing before the iconic Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, built between 1010 and 1129 (and forgive me if my spellings are off!). After settling into a guesthouse, the owner generously offered to drive me to the breathtaking Jvari Monastery, and I eagerly accepted that opportunity.
Upon my return, I leisurely
explored the enchanting village, soaking in its unique charm, and later enjoyed
a refreshing beer in my tiny courtyard, which was overflowing with pomegranate
trees. This, I thought to myself, is what a good day of cycle touring is all
about.
28 August – Mtskheta – Uplistikhe
-57 km
Georgian is the official language of Georgia and is spoken by 90% of the population. It is written in Mkhedruli, and the oldest surviving literary text dates back to the 5th century AD, which is found in the Jvari monastery. What’s fascinating is that Georgian is a linguistic island—and not related to Indo-European, Turkic, or Semitic languages as it evolved independently for millennia. For me to pick up any words, the chances are almost zero.
This morning, I drank my
coffee in my little pomegranate garden and only finished at around 9:30, which
was a much more reasonable time for me. I set off on the hilly road, which I
now call the road to nowhere, as I have no idea where I want to go. Still, the
scenery was spectacular with misty valleys hiding ancient fortresses and monasteries.
I could also see that we were reaching the end of summer, as the crops were
being harvested. Another lovely surprise was meeting another cycle tourer. Alex
was heading in the opposite direction and was nearing the end of his 4-month
cycling holiday, which started in Germany.
As my route descended to
the Kyra River, I spotted something interesting curved into the mountain and
decided to investigate. Uplistikhe turned out to be one of Georgia’s most
extraordinary archaeological sites. The Uplistsikhe Cave Complex, dating back to
the 2nd millennium BCE, is one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia, with
traces of habitation dating back to the Bronze Age. I understand it flourished
as a pagan religious centre before Christianity took hold in the region in the
4th century CE.
The town is carved directly
into rock and features temples, dwellings, tunnels, and streets. Historically,
the northern approach to Uplistikhe was carved into rock with walls up to 10
meters high, offering natural defence. It seems I'm tracing the footsteps of
millennia of travellers, priests and traders.
I was so taken with this
discovery that I took a room in a typical Georgian timber home with a
vine-covered pergola. What a lovely way to spend the end of the day. My host
prepared me a massive bowl of khinkali (dumplings), accompanied by watermelon
and a Georgian beer to wash it all down.
29 August - Uplistikhe –
Surami – 75 km
Just 12 kilometres from my overnight stop was Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Once a vibrant figure on a grand pedestal, his statue has now been removed from the town square, and a new residence has been found in the local museum. During my visit, I was fortunate enough to cross paths with two Chinese ladies accompanied by an English-speaking guide, who graciously invited me to tag along.
I quickly realised that having a guide is essential for navigating the depths of Stalin's complex history. Far from trying to sugarcoat his life, our guide provided us with meticulously researched facts that painted a vivid, if unsettling, portrait of the past. As we delved into Stalin's story, I was taken aback by the striking parallels between his behaviour and some confident world leaders today. It was a chilling reminder of how history can echo in the present, leaving me both fascinated and uneasy as I pondered its implications.
As I was right there, I had to visit the Gori fortress. As I stood beneath the imposing silhouette of the Fortress, perched high on a rocky hill overlooking the city of Gori, I felt privileged to walk its ancient stairs. It's storied past first surfaces in records from the 13th century. Still, whispers of an even older lineage echo through the ages, with archaeological evidence suggesting the site was fortified as far back as the final centuries BCE.
By the time I left Gori, it
was already well past midday, but I continued cycling to the small village of
Surami, which had a few guesthouses. The one I picked was a lovely surprise as
it had a charming veranda, a kitchen and a spacious bedroom.
30 August – Surami – Kutaisi
- 93 km
One thing I can guarantee is that Georgia isn’t flat—it’s a landscape bursting with surprises! As I pedalled toward Turkey, the hilly road ultimately led me to the entrance of the freeway. A sign flashed “prohibited,” but to my astonishment, the road workers waved me through. Suddenly, I found myself gliding along a brand-new freeway, navigating through a series of tunnels that turned a strenuous ride into a breeze. Admittedly, the tunnels were a bit nerve-wracking—but before I knew it, I emerged triumphantly on the other side of the Rikoti Pass.
Upon arriving in Kutaisi, I decided to stray from the usual path. I booked a night at the Friends Hostel instead of a traditional guesthouse, drawn in by its prime location near the iconic Bagrati Cathedral. Little did I realise that reaching the hostel would require conquering an incredibly steep cobbled road. I heaved and wheezed my way up, questioning my sanity as I struggled to drag my bike uphill. But the hostel was budget-friendly, and I pushed through, telling myself that surely, I’d be the only traveller crazy enough to visit Kutaisi.
To my delightful surprise, I arrived at a buzzing, fully booked hostel brimming with fellow adventurers from around the globe, including a fascinating South African artist now living in Russia.
Once settled in, I took
full advantage of the hostel’s amenities, tackling my long-overdue laundry
while exchanging tales with the other guests. Each conversation was like
finding a piece of a puzzle, painting a vivid picture of cultures and
experiences from afar. It was the kind of serendipity that made my journey all
the more memorable!
31 August - Kutaisi -35 km
I extended my stay at Friends hostel for one more night and set out early, eager to explore Tskaltubo—a town that feels like a time capsule of history, healing, and architectural ambition. As I pedalled through the crisp morning air, I couldn’t help but wonder about the stories hidden in this fascinating place.
Tskaltubo’s history stretches back to the enigmatic 7th to 9th centuries, when the first mentions of its natural springs appeared, hinting at its potential as a healing haven. Fast forward to the 12th and 13th centuries, and Tskaltubo was already carving out a reputation for itself as a wellness destination, celebrated for its radon-carbonate mineral waters. By 1920, it had officially transformed into a balneological resort, specialising in treatments for various ailments, from circulatory issues to skin conditions.
Then came the Soviet era, and by 1953, Tskaltubo had achieved town status, blossoming into a premier spa destination that drew a staggering 125,000 visitors each year. It was meticulously designed as a scientifically planned resort, showcasing 22 sanatoriums and nine bathhouses arranged in an amphitheatre-like formation amidst verdant landscapes. Each building was an artistic testament to style, seamlessly blending neoclassical and Stalinist influences in a captivating display of architectural beauty.
However, the fall of the USSR marked a poignant decline for Tskaltubo. Many of its once-thriving sanatoriums were left abandoned or repurposed to accommodate people displaced by conflict. Yet, hope flickered anew in 2022 when the Georgian government began auctioning off these properties, reigniting interest in the town's restoration and untapped potential.
As I wandered through
Tskaltubo, I was struck by the juxtaposition of its splendid yet neglected
buildings. Each step was an adventure; I couldn’t resist the thrill of climbing
the crumbling walls to sneak a peek inside these architectural relics. The experience
was exhilarating and somewhat scary, as I wandered through the husks of a
once-bustling spa town, letting my imagination roam through its storied past.
1 September – Kutaisi
My day in Kutaisi was
mainly spent at the hostel chatting with other travellers and wandering around
old Kutaisi. I also stopped at a bike shop to fit a new screw to the front
luggage rack. I also bought an odometer, a task that took the best part of the
morning, as it appeared that service here is as slow as molasses.
2 September – Kutaisi
Just outside Kutaisi, I
discover the breathtaking beauty of Prometheus Cave, one of Georgia’s most
captivating natural marvels! Nestled within the remarkable Sataphlia-Tskaltubo
karst massif, this cave system stretches over 11 kilometres. While only 1.8 km
is open to visitors, every step reveals a breathtaking spectacle. As I wandered
through the six stunning caverns, I was mesmerised by the extraordinary
formations that adorn the walls—nature's artistry in the form of glittering
stalactites, towering stalagmites, delicate helictites, and intricate
needle-like anthodites that seem almost otherworldly. Dating back an impressive
60 to 70 million years, Prometheus Cave is not just a sight to behold; it’s a
treasure trove of history! Fossils of ancient cave bears, starfish, and
molluscs from the Cretaceous period have been discovered within its depths, offering
a glimpse into a time long gone.
3 September – Kutaisi – Ureki
– 100 km
I awoke feeling refreshed in the spacious tent at the hostel, the gentle sound of raindrops on the fabric lulling me into a cosy morning. As I lay there, I contemplated staying another day in this welcoming haven filled with fellow travellers, but the allure of the open road beckoned. With a final wave to the friendly faces of the hostel, I set off, pedalling out of the captivating city of Kutaisi.
The drizzle accompanied me for most of the morning, but the warmth in the air kept my spirits high. As I cycled, the scenery unfolded like a vibrant painting—lush, green landscapes spilling into charming hamlets where it felt like time had paused. Every turn revealed a new slice of rural life, and I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder at the beauty surrounding me.
However, the journey wasn’t without its challenges. Road closures added to the chaos of the narrow road, causing an unexpected rush of traffic. It was far from a leisurely ride, but every pedal stroke brought me closer to the majestic shores of the Black Sea.
Finally, I arrived at my
destination—the inviting holiday village of Ureki. The vibrant atmosphere
buzzed with the energy of vacationers, yet I managed to find a snug, reasonably
priced room that offered a slice of tranquillity amidst the hustle.
4 September – Ureki –
Batuni – 63 km
My ride to Batumi,
Georgia's second-largest city and sole harbour, was an enjoyable 60 km bike
ride. The route took me along the breathtaking Black Sea, where the tiny waves
lapped against the rugged, stony beaches. The scenery was so captivating that I
lost track of time, wholly caught up in the ride. I zoomed past scenic vistas
and fresh sea breezes, forgetting to take breaks or even sip some water. In
hindsight, I realised that was a bit stupid! But every pedal stroke felt like
an adventure in this stunning landscape.
Once in Batumi, I headed
towards the Surf Hostel (a strange name for a place where there are no waves)
as it was inexpensive and well located in the old part.
I spent the following day
doing the usual housekeeping and exploring the popular boardwalk along the calm
Black Sea. The Black Sea is a most fascinating body of water. It has a unique, two-layered
basin with a deep, anoxic (oxygen-depleted) layer. The lower 90 per cent of the
Black Sea is anoxic and saturated with hydrogen sulphide. This environment
perfectly preserves organic material, leading to the discovery of many ancient
ships. In fact, the world’s oldest sunken ship was found in the Black Sea. It
was discovered by scientists in 2018 and dates back 2400 years. The ship
“Armenia” was also found in the Black Sea, which was considered one of the
greatest marine tragedies of the last decade. The ship disappeared in 1941 and
has been searched for by scientists ever since.
The Black Sea is also
impressively deep, with a depth of 2,200 metres at its deepest point and an
average depth of 1,200 metres. Until around 7,600 years ago, the Black Sea was
a freshwater lake. A catastrophic flooding event caused saltwater from the
Mediterranean to pour in through the Bosporus Strait, transforming it into the saltwater
sea it is today.
I decided to stick around for another day, caught in the whirlwind of thoughts about my upcoming trip to Turkey. With prices skyrocketing, camping seemed like my best option, and that meant I’d need a sleeping bag. Unfortunately, I had ditched mine ages ago; it was practically useless during my travels through Asia, so now I was left scrambling for alternatives.
On top of that, I faced a financial conundrum. My usual go-to for transferring money, Wise, had hit a snag. It was a reliable lifeline back in Asia, allowing me instant access to funds, but now I was left twisting in the wind. I needed to find a new way to transfer cash from my South African bank to my Thai account, as that is the only card I have on hand.
The thought of not having access to my money made me feel vulnerable, like I was floating without a safety net. In a moment of desperation, I reached out to my sister, hoping she could swoop in and help by transferring some funds. I was crossing my fingers that the money would pop into my account sooner rather than later.
While I'm not in a mad
rush, I prefer to tackle these uncertainties head-on. The last thing I want is
to embark on a new journey without the peace of mind that comes with knowing I
have financial access wherever I roam.
8 September – Batumi,
Georgia – Hopa Camping, Turkey – 30 km
15 Km south of Batumi, I
came upon the Gonio Fortress, a fascinating site that weaves together Roman
military strategy, Greek mythology, and centuries of shifting empires.
It is quite a substantial
structure, so I did my best to find information about it. In the process, I
learned that it was initially known as Apsaros or Apsyrtus and that the Romans
built the fortress as a military outpost in the 1st to 3rd centuries.
Archaeologists found the
site included a theatre and hippodrome, suggesting it was more than just a
garrison but a thriving Roman town. Water and sewerage canals were identified
on the site. The remains of two Roman baths have also been uncovered. Boiler
rooms connected through narrow tunnels heated the baths and provided underfloor
heating.
Some believe the grave of
Saint Matthias, one of the twelve apostles, lies within the fortress
walls—though excavation near the site is restricted.
The Byzantines further fortified the site during the 6th and 7th centuries, and in the 14th century, the name “Gonio” first appeared in a historical text. The Ottomans captured Gonio in 1547 and used it as a trade centre and slave market. The fortress remained under Ottoman control until the Treaty of San Stefano in 1878, when it was ceded to the Russian Empire.
Once across the border, I
hardly started cycling when I spotted a campsite and decided to camp, as I
hadn’t tested my camping gear for a while. It was a lovely spot right on the
water, and they had a restaurant.
