LAOS (8) & THAILAND (16) - Emiel
1569 Kilometres - 30 Days
10 May – 8 June 2018
Thailand (15.2)
10 May 2018 - Pattaya – Bangkok – Nong Khai –
By train
At last, I was on the move. Emiel and I set off
at midday to bike the 6 kilometres to Pattaya Station where trains departed to Bangkok
and onto the Laos/Thailand border town of Nong Khai.
First, let me introduce my cycling companion.
Emiel hailed from the Netherlands and was in Thailand to do a Muay Thai boxing course.
His course ended, but he still had more than a month before returning home. Both
of us had to do visa runs and Vientiane the most straightforward place (at the
time) to extend Thai visas, so it made sense to catch a train to Laos and cycle
back.
Loading the bicycles onto the train via a relatively
narrow door, in the process blocking two carriages, marked the beginning of an
eventful start. This obstruction caused the conductor to clamber over two cycles
to do his job.
Upon arrival at Bangkok station, I noticed Emiel’s
bike on the verge of sliding out the door; as the doors didn’t close and the bicycles
were (not so securely) jammed in the narrow entranceway, and sliding out was a real
possibility. Luckily, this didn’t happen. Then, on to the next leg of our journey,
which involved catching a train to Nong Khai. Unfortunately, it turned out our train
didn’t take bicycles. Give me strength. Instead, we were pointed in the direction
of platform 10, where the bikes were loaded onto a different train—a train said
to arrive two hours after us in Nong Khai. Though not too pleased with this
arrangement, one could do nothing.
After buying a few snacks and beer, our comfortable
and new-looking train featured sleeping bunks, which the staff made up as soon as
the train departed Bangkok. It came as an unwelcome surprise to find drinking alcohol
on the train was prohibited. Our second-class tickets further meant no door to close,
merely curtains one could draw. Like school kids, we tried hiding our beer from
the staff and discreetly, and chuckling, drank it behind the drawn curtain.
LAOS (8)
11 May – Nong Khai – Vientiane – 25 kilometres
The train was extremely quiet, which made a
good night’s rest. By the time it dawned, the train was almost in Nong Khai and
there remained barely enough time to enjoy a cup of coffee before disembarking.
In Nong Khai, we learned the train carrying the bicycles were two hours behind
schedule. Not a train smash, so to speak, as it gave a few hours to explore Nong
Khai. Following a bowl of noodle soup, a tuk-tuk ride made it easy to explore
the Buddha Park. It’s said a shaman built this bizarre sculpture park over 20 years
after being exiled from his native Laos, where he made a similar park. The park
consists of weird and gigantic Buddhist and Hindu sculptures. Once Emiel had enough
of all the bizarre stuff, he returned to the station while I went in search of more
unusual things. I found only the Nong Thin Public Park, whose only claim to
fame was the largest park in the province. Upon returning to the station, the bikes
had arrived. The discovery of a broken gear cable made me wonder if somebody might’ve
taken it for a ride, as the odometer had substantially more kilometres on the clock
than when handed in.
At immigration, we checked out of Thailand and
pedalled into Vientiane. The weather was sweltering and Mixok Guesthouse, provided
air-con rooms, a haven. Emiel hurried to the food carts, and I took the bicycle
to Laos Bike Shop to replace the cable.
Being May, the heat was relentless and the evenings
were the best time to be out and stroll along the riverfront where one could
eat at the many pop-up restaurants. The food was excellent, albeit far too much
for two.
12 May - Vientiane
I went for a jog along the riverfront, a
pleasure in Vientiane in the early morning. Upon returning, Emiel was enjoying breakfast
and I joined him for coffee. Later, we searched for Laos sim cards, a process that
took substantially longer than anticipated. The COPE visiting centre was an
informative but depressing place. Since its creation in 1996, COPE has worked closely
with the Laos Ministry of Health rehabilitation centres to provide physical rehabilitation
services. Thanks to COPE, thousands of people with mobility-related disabilities,
including UXO survivors, have received prosthetic and orthotic services free of
charge, allowing them to regain mobility and dignity.
Statistics taken from their website: “From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more
than two million tons of ordnance on Laos during 580,000 bombing missions—equal
to a planeload of bombs every 8 minutes, 24-hours a day, for nine years –
making Laos the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. Up to a
third of the bombs dropped didn’t explode, leaving Laos contaminated with vast
quantities of unexploded ordnance (UXO)”.
On that sad note, we meandered to the Sisaket
Temple, a 19th-century Siamese-style temple housing thousands of tiny Buddhas. Built
between 1810 and 1824, Sisaket is believed Vientiane’s oldest surviving temple.
It’s a beautiful and peaceful place to stroll. Still early, we cycled out to view
a small remaining part of the old Vientiane city wall, believed to have been constructed
in the 16th-century. My assumption I was the only person who knew this bit of history
was clearly incorrect. On arrival, I was somewhat taken aback to find a
festival of sorts and ladies dressed in traditional costumes and a display of conventional
implements.
Upon the return leg, a small supermarket made
convenient shopping. On emerging from the store, I discovered a flat tire. Under
normal circumstances, this wouldn’t be a problem, but I took no spare tube or
pump that day. Emiel suggested flagging down a tuk-tuk, a brilliant idea (I guess
he feared I would suggest walking the bikes back). A pricy tuk-tuk ride (he saw
us coming) returned us to the guesthouse. While fixing the tube I discovered a puncture
on the rim side of the tube. Mercifully, “Laos Bike” was barely 100 meters away,
where they quickly fitted new rim-tape.
Following the days’ drama, a cold Beer Lao was
a good idea. A walk along the riverfront revealed a suitable watering hole overlooking
the Mekong. However, our rumbling stomachs soon drove us to the restaurant area.
Though Emiel had his mind set on the Japanese restaurant, I favoured Indian food.
I took advantage of his good manners, and we ate Indian. Shame on me. I surmised
he was soon going to catch on to this.
13 May - Vientiane
The reason for hanging around Vientiane
wasn’t simply because of its laidback atmosphere. Still, I needed to apply for a
Thailand Visa. With it being weekend, I’d to wait till Monday to hand in the application,
and usually, one could collect it the next day. Evenings made great strolling
along the promenade and investigating the bustling night market. As Emiel rightly
remarked, the town came alive after sunset. Sunset was by far the most pleasant
time being out, and we sat outside enjoying a beer and solving the world’s problems.
14 May – Vientiane
Came Monday, I was keen to hand in my
application. I biked to the Thailand Consulate, only to find it a public holiday.
I was gobsmacked as it turned out to be the start of the planting season in
Thailand, hence the ploughing festival. Although immensely frustrating, there was
nothing to do but wait until morning. Instead, Emiel and I spent a few hours cycling
along the Mekong River. The ride was a lovely one, and one could scarcely believe
you were merely 20 kilometres outside the city. Villagers peddled their wares by
boat and sold ice-cold sugarcane juice at roadside stalls, just the thing needed
in the oppressing heat. The temperature averaged around 34/35 degrees C, which sounds
considerably cooler when on a sofa at 24C. Even the flower offerings sold outside
temples looked wilted. Our intention was never to go far and after an hour or
two, we retraced our steps into town.
15 May – Vientiane
The following day was “take two”, and off I went
to the Consulate. The office was clearly open as the queue extended out the
gate. The fun part was chatting to others waiting in line. All were in the same
boat, and if anyone needed, coffee, water or application forms, that person would
bring them for all who needed them. It took hours to reach the front where I, to
the great amusement of my new friends, were told my photo was “too sexy”, and I’d
to get a new one taken. I should’ve asked if I could have it in writing. By the
time all was done, the time was past midday and the weather boiling. The
remainder of the day was spent in the coolness of my air-con room. Fortunately,
Emiel seemed to have taken a liking to Vientiane.
Shoe shopping in Laos isn’t an easy task as nearly
all people are tiny. As Emiel is larger than the majority, finding sandals was extremely
difficult. Eventually, a large pair was uncovered, but the shop could only locate
one shoe. I guessed he would have to persevere with the flip-flops until
suitable footwear could be found.
16 May - Vientiane
Following breakfast, a short cycle took us to
Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe, or Victory Monument. I love the story of how it was
built using cement donated by the USA intended to construct a new airport; hence,
it’s now referred to as the “vertical runway”. If one climbs to the top, it
offers a beautiful city vista. Then on to Pha That Luang, a 16th-century Buddhist
stupa believed to have been built upon the remains of a 13th Khmer century temple,
which in turn was built on a 3rd-century temple.
In the afternoon, I biked to the Thai Consulate
to collect my visa, a process that again took a few hours.
Visa in hand, I returned to the guesthouse, where
it turned out beer o’clock. Later, Emiel and I met up with my friend Christian and
his lovely girlfriend for pizza, something I hadn’t had in years. It must have been
a Belgium owned restaurant as they had quite a decent selection of Belgium beer.
A lovely evening.
17 May - Vientiane – Thabok - 98 kilometres
Finally, time came to cycle out of Vientiane.
It turned out an excellent day as the ride offered a slight tailwind, making it
feel more comfortable than the predicted 35C. It didn’t take long to clear the city
limits and be in a more rural part of Laos where kids called greetings of “Sabaidee
falang.” Even though not the most scenic part of Laos, I was happy on this familiar
route and cycling past the numerous temples, rice fields, markets selling woven
products and the odd broken-down truck. As it was the beginning of the rice planting
season, subsistence farmers under straw hats were sowing rice seeds in small fields
adjacent to their homes. Kids on bicycles cycled to school and vendors sold
teeny fishes in plastic bags or individual tropical fish in bottles. A Buddhist
funeral procession walked to the temple in blistering heat, and it looked as if
villagers joined in at random, as the parade steadily became longer while
making their way to the crematorium.
Emiel did well on his first day, and set such
a pace he sped past the village initially planned as an overnight stop and only
came to a halt 20 kilometres further at the small settlement of Thabok. Accommodation
consisted of spacious ground floor rooms and clean bedding; something always
considered a bargain. The best part was the restaurant directly across the way which
provided both food and beer.
18
May – Thabok – Pakkading – 100 kilometres
We
left Thabok in the company of two-wheeled tractors (for lack of a better word)
pulling homemade wooden carts, loaded with jovial ladies
in conical hats. During the day, the scenery became denser and greener as we
crossed many rivers flowing into the mighty Mekong. Water buffalo enjoyed the
abundance of water, and canoes lined the shores. From time to time, we cycled
flush next to the river, and at times, the road would veer slightly inland only
to return to the river a few kilometres further. It felt the entire way was
lined with stands selling dried and smoked fish and other exotic nibbles, all
wrapped in banana leaves.
As
mentioned before, this wasn’t a very scenic part of Laos; still, the area offered
distant mountains and river views, and it was quite lovely. Children called “felang”
(foreigner), which seemed a codeword as the entire village would come running
along to wave and call greetings of “sabaidee” (hello). However, as soon as one
stopped to take a photo, they would run for the safety of their mother’s apron.
Others would stand stock-still, allowing one to take a picture, and then shyly scurried
home.
Temples
and Buddha statues abounded, as well as small roadside stalls where one could
get a coconut juice or barbequed duck. Pakkading was reached in good time and
sported comfortable-enough accommodation. As was our habit, we immediately went
on the hunt for a cold beer, which then disappeared remarkably quickly.
19
May - Pakkading - Vieng Kham - 45 kilometres
Even though a short day’s ride, it was no less
enjoyable. Outside town our route south crossed the Pakkading River via a Russian-built
bridge commemorating the first person in space. Yuri Gagarin was a Soviet pilot
and cosmonaut and was the first human to journey into outer space when his Vostok
spacecraft completed an orbit of the Earth on 12 April 1961. What a brave man
and a true explorer.
The bridge is further a place where truck drivers
traditionally stop to light a cigarette before crossing the bridge; they then toss
the lit cigarette into the river below, to appease the water serpent believed to
live in the river mouth.
The road was shared with buses, trucks, ladies
pushing wooden carts to the market, men driving 2-wheel tractors and kids (no older
than six) riding motorbikes - four up. Conveniently situated mobile carts sold watermelon,
which the lady peeled and cut at 5,000 LAK (roughly $0.50). There’s no shortage
of food in Laos, and the road was lined with a multitude of vendors selling fruit
and vegetables, as well as homemade knives.
The short day’s cycle gave Emiel’s backside and
knees a rest. Though our roadside accommodation at 50,000 LAK was no Taj Mahal,
it made a good enough overnight spot. The interesting part was at practically
all these establishments, beds had an unusual placing as it’s believed unlucky if
one’s feet face the door. Unfortunately, these rooms were no different, and sported
beds facing inwards even though it clearly, wasn’t the most practical
arrangement.
20 May - Vieng Kham –
Hinboun – 53 kilometres
Ordering food whilst unable to speak the language
can be a fascinating affair. This morning breakfast was no different and placed
in front of us was a plate of rice and pork topped by two fried eggs, instead of
two plates of food. This mistake is quite understandable as people seldom order
individual food in Southeast Asia. Instead, food is generally shared and thus unusual
for people to each order a plate of food. However, to their astonishment, an
additional plate was ordered.
Being well fed made easy ambling across broad
rivers, and I was pleasantly surprised to see boatmen cleaning the river, not a
thing one often sees in this part of the world. Being a rural part of Laos, it
wasn’t unusual to see ladies tending cattle or kids driving goats to better feeding
grounds. As has become the norm, we pedalled past modest Buddhist temples and kids
on bicycles who found it the highlight of their day to give chase. They came cycling
past at high speed until losing a flip-flop or pedal, usually to the great delight
of the other kids. The blazing sun made us call it quits around midday and
roadside lodging made an excellent place to kick back during the heat of the day.
An amble to a nearby restaurant turned into
an interesting affair at sunset. “Seendat” or Laos Barbecue is a self-cooked meal
at the table. These restaurants offer tables fitted with small fire pits. It
must be mentioned that the seedat pan/grill is a relatively small dome-like
contraption featuring holes and a moat along the bottom into which the broth is
poured. This pan fits snugly over the bucket of coals.
The meal consisted of paper-thin slivers of beef
or pork, eggs and pork fat to grease the pan. Also served were leafy green vegetables
including celery leaves, mint, Thai basil, lettuce, and cabbage. Thin rice noodles,
clear broth, peanut dipping sauce, garlic, limes, and chopped chillies
completed the ingredients.
The meal is a social and lengthy affair as
first, the dome-like grill or pan is greased using the pork fat and the meat
grilled. The vegetables, noodles, and eggs are then placed into the broth. Next,
the peanut dip is mixed to your liking with garlic, lime juice, and chillies. It’s
delicious and fun.
21-22 May – Hinboun – Thahek – 53 kilometres
Our first stop was at a fascinating market selling
all kinds of unusual animals. Emiel didn’t take well to the enormous cockroaches,
dried frogs, grilled squirrels, and cut-up monitor lizards for sale. I must admit
seeing those lizard feet on a plate was slightly uncomfortable. Soon afterwards,
a breakfast noodle soup stall came into view but by then, Emiel had lost his appetite.
The reason might not have been the lizard feet, but most likely the lady cleaning
a buffalo carcass while preparing the soup. I guess such a sight was enough to put
almost anyone off their food. In hindsight, I should’ve taken a picture of the
situation. Not a great deal further, a sign pointed to the “Great Wall of Laos.”
This kilometres-long Kamphaeng Nyak wall is actually a geological phenomenon caused
by fissures. Still, its physical resemblance to a man-made structure has given rise
to many Laos myths regarding its origin. Legend, has it the wall was an animal trap
built by ancient giant-like people. Others say it was made as a defence system,
and some argue the wall was built to stem the floodwaters from the Mekong.
Then onward to Thahek, where lunch, consisted
of Beer Lao and Dim Sum. I was impressed Emiel ate a “100-year-old egg.” Despite
the name “smelly egg,” it didn’t have much of a smell. The taste was practically
the same as a hard-boiled egg, except it had a slight scent. The egg was black inside
and out, which was the most off-putting.
The next day a well-deserved rest day was
spent in Thahek, not doing a great deal apart from laundry and the usual eating
and drinking. Thahek is a lovely tiny settlement sporting a riverside setting, crumbling
old French colonial buildings and quaint restaurant/coffee shops. The day was
spent sipping coffee while watching ladies peddle woven ware from shoulder poles
and chatting to friendly monks at the temple.
The riverside made a pleasant enough place to
stroll while watching men fish from longtail boats. Supper was along the riverbank
while looking across the river where Thailand’s lights reflected upon the water.
Sadly, a storm came in, making us scurry indoors until the worse blew over.
23 May - Thahek – Savannakhet – 120 kilometres
Following breakfast at one of the riverfront restaurants,
we got going. The road was covered in small mangoes blown from the trees during
the previous night’s storm. At first, the plan was to make it a two-day ride to
Savannakhet by following the river trail. A lovely ride along the Mekong through
small settlements where people fished and farmed rice. Past interesting temples,
ancient ruins, and villagers selling woven rice baskets, bananas, and eggs. Farmers
along the river live simple lives. Homes are generally wooden structures upon stilts
where animals were kept underneath houses. Nearly all were subsistence farmers,
and each house had a mango tree, banana plants, boat, chickens, goats and
cattle, adjacent to a small plot of land to plant rice.
We dodged potholes, chickens and goats as our
path continued in a southerly direction. It appeared villagers were
unaccustomed seeing cycle tourists and were eager for us to take pictures of
their children, much different from western cities. Roadside restaurants were humble,
corrugated iron structures where meals were cooked upon a one-pot clay charcoal
stove and slivers of meat were drying in the sun, hanging from washing lines.
By the time we started looking for accommodation,
none were found. There was nothing one could do but carry on to Savannakhet, making
a long day of riding. Mercifully, the numerous eateries provided water and
ample fruit. En route, we also encountered farmers selling the fruit from sugar
palms, which they cut open, allowing them to dig out the juicy jelly bits inside,
something I’ve never tried before.
Savannakhet offered plenty of guesthouses and
once settled our long ride called for a cold beer. Afterwards, a short amble led
to the popular night market, where a wide selection of dishes was available.
24 May – Savannakhet
Savannakhet was blessed with an ensemble of
old French colonial buildings and tree-lined roads. A day of rest was spent in
this laidback town, barely doing anything apart from the usual rest day chores. As sunset was the best time to be out,
people sat outside eating from simple eateries while old men played board games
and kids ran amok. Hundreds of food vendors lined the river frontage and
villagers sat on kindergarten chairs, chatting and watching the sunset over the
Mekong River.
THAILAND (16)
25 May - Savannakhet, Laos – Baan Rimkhong Guesthouse,
Don Tan, Thailand – 67 kilometres
Our leisurely departure was due to a short
distance to the Laos/Thailand border. The plan was to bike across the
Friendship Bridge into Thailand. But, instead, we biked to the immigration office
roughly 5 kilometres north of town. Regrettably, our breakfast stop en route to
the border consisted of only coffee. The rest, I presume, got lost in translation.
Once stamped out of Laos, pedestrians and
cyclists were required to cross the Friendship Bridge by bus. True to my rebellious
self, I thought this was a load of bollocks and Emiel was easily swayed. We
thus hopped on the bikes and peddled like the clappers across the bridge to the
Thailand immigration. Once stamped into Thailand, a mad rush followed to the nearest
7-Eleven. There, not only breakfast, but means of topping up our Thai sim cards
could be purchased. Once all was done, we headed further south along a cycle
path next to the highway. Sadly, the cycle path soon disappeared and spat us
out upon the main road. Towards the end of the day, a bungalow overlooking the Mekong
River, or “Khong River” made easy overnighting. There was no shop or restaurant
nearby, but both could be found 1.5 kilometres away. A pleasurable and relaxing
evening was spent drinking our beer and watching the Mekong flow past en-route
to Vietnam, where it finally discharges into the South China Sea.
26 May - Baan Rimkhong Bungalows, Don Tan – Roadside
Guesthouse – 75 kilometres
The early morning drizzle made a fresh and overcast
ride. This was perfect cycling weather as the route continued past water buffalo,
temples, and rice paddies. Emiel was on fire, and in no time at all, we cycled
into Khemarat where the sight of a bowl of noodle soup on the outskirts of town
made us skid to a halt.
Our path led past rubber tree plantations where
the rubber industry crises were clearly visible. Trees were tapped but the rubber
never collected. I heard rumours collecting the latex cost more than the market
price; how sad.
The rainy season had started and people were planting
rice in neat rows. Throughout Asia, rice is still considered sacred. The ritual
of planting and harvesting rice has shaped Southeast Asian traditions for centuries.
It’s very much a family affair, and each family member is expected to join in. May
is a busy time for the majority of Isan farmers. Seedlings are cultivated in nursery
paddies and later transplanted to the main paddy fields. I understand the young
plants need to be separated at the root, as it increases the yield by allowing each
plant the space to grow. Understandably, rain is necessary to fill the paddy
fields and hence no surprise to see dark clouds gathering.
Trying our level best to go as fast as
possible, we became utterly soaked. Luckily, only a few kilometres remained to the
tiny settlement of Ban Kaeng Hi which had accommodation, albeit without any electricity.
In fact, the entire community was in darkness due to the heavy downpour. Once the
rain subsided the hunt to find food was on in all earnest and we strolled along
to a little restaurant. The settlement consisted of a basic restaurant, a small
roadside market, a bus and a police station. Upon reaching the restaurant, the entire
village was aware of our presence. Everyone knew we were travelling by bicycle and
were staying at the “resort”. Even without spoken English, sign language indicating
food seemed universal. In no time at all, a bowl of noodle soup and a plate of fried
rice arrived. Beer Chan could be bought from the shop across the road, which nicely
rounded off the meal. By the time we’d finished our food it had started raining
again and the concerned owner offered us a lift for the 500m to our abode. We politely
declined but did borrow two umbrellas which we returned in the morning. What a wonderful
place rural Thailand is.
27 May – Roadside Guesthouse – Khong Chiam – 95
kilometres
The previous night’s rain cooled the temperature
considerably, and I needed no aircon or fan, a rarity in Southeast Asia. We emerged
to an overcast morning. Our first stop was 500 metres away at the same restaurant
as the previous night, to return the umbrellas and have breakfast. Emiel, strangely,
wasn’t hungry, but I’d a greasy omelette on rice, to which I added a healthy dose
of chillies. I washed this down with a “three-in-one coffee.” Then, fearing I would
be like a fire-breathing dragon cycling up the first hill, I took a good gulp of
antacid medication before setting off.
What a lovely day it turned out. The road led
partly through the Pha Taem National Park, making a shady albeit hilly ride
offering dense forest to both sides of the road (thank goodness for the cloud cover).
Butterflies and dragonflies darted around us while we slowly grinded our way up
the hills. By the time, Emiel became hungry, no food was available, and slinking
into Khong Chiam, both of us were starving. A lovely place right upon the Mun River,
was home that night. Following a shower a stroll led to where the Mun River
meets the Mekong. Here, one can see the two rivers meet as they differ in colour
and flow side by side without mixing for quite some time.
28 May - Khong Chiam – Ubon – 85 kilometres
The northeastern part of Thailand, known as Isan,
borders Laos and Cambodia. It’s a vast agricultural area of rice fields and tiny
hamlets, consisting of 20 provinces. Most of the region’s population call themselves
Thai Isan or Laos Isan as they speak a different dialect, which, I understood, is
similar to what is spoken in Laos.
I loved cycling in this area and still claim there
is no green, greener than the rice fields of Isan. Although the rainy season had
just started, the luminous green rice paddies were already visible.
Biking this area was past rice fields and vast
regions of cassava and rubber tree plantations. Meagre stalls sold bananas and mangoes,
while others offered no more than two pumpkins or dried buffalo hide. Nevertheless,
the route was littered with businesses selling temple paraphernalia, i.e., gongs
and drums.
As in Thailand, Laos had an abundance of Bodhi
trees, or sacred fig trees. The Bodhi tree is under which Buddha sat when he attained
enlightenment (Bodhi). Animists in Thailand believe this tree is inhabited by spirits
and lost souls and cannot simply be cut down. To do so could invoke fury and possible
revenge from the resident spirits. Therefore, before a Bodhi tree can be
removed, the spirits must be forewarned and appeased by monks or other appropriate
religious figures.
Ubon sported the Ubon Hotel, which wasn’t
only inexpensive and, more importantly, across the road from the night market. Moreover,
the amount of food one can consume while cycle touring is impressive!
29 May – Ubon – Kantharalak – 75 kilometres
A short and effortless ride brought us to Kantharalak.
Still, I was, disappointed in my choice of routes as the road was a great deal busier
than foreseen. So busy was the road, it required buying flower garlands for good
luck/safe travels. I was surprised to purchase these garlands at a mere 10 Thai
Baht. The amount of work and flowers must surely be more than 10 THB.
Though not a terribly exciting route, a few interesting
things were scattered along the way. I usually compare days like this to diving
in poor visibility. The reason is I don’t believe there is such a thing as a bad
dive or a bad day of cycling, one merely needs to look more closely. This day was
no different, and I found the scrawny cows with their long ears even more amusing,
as they seemed to have a superior attitude, looking down their noses at us. Also
spotted were a remarkable number of midgets (or “little people” may be the more
politically correct term). Irrespective of what it’s called, these people all
clearly suffered from a mutation in the FGFR3 gene that causes achondroplasia. They all seem well proportioned apart from
their dreadfully short legs. But then, I have no medical background.
The many straw scarecrows in the rice paddies
reminded me of the importance of rice in Asia. In Bali, women make rice figurines
to watch over the rice, but this was the first time I saw straw figures in Thailand.
Maybe it was only decorative and had nothing to do with rice rituals.
Kantharalak revealed a comfortable air-con abode
at 350 baht, something considered a bargain. We discovered a Buddhist holiday
on our walkabout and no beer was sold, except at restaurants. Ordering a meal was
slightly more difficult as many of the dishes pointed at were answered with a “No
have”. Eventually, the sole “Yes, have” was fried rice and a spicy mango salad.
I love these small towns as they are typical Thai and the lack of tourists makes
it a genuine experience.
30 May – Kantharalak – Phu Sing Guesthouse – 70
kilometres
Easiest was to grab a bite to eat from a conveniently
located 7-Eleven before popping in at Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew, also known as the
Temple of a Million Bottles. The temple and the surrounding buildings are
entirely built from empty beer bottles.
The remainder of the day turned out an enjoyable
ride along a rural lane as we meandered through farmlands featuring views of distant
mountains forming the Cambodian border. The traffic was light, and the route offered
ample water and food. Add a slight tailwind, and it turned out a perfect day of
cycle touring. In the small settlement of Phu Sing, lovely timber bungalows
lured us in. Later our amble to locate food caused (as could be expected) a
great deal of interest. It appeared a rarity to see foreigners on bicycles in this
tiny community.
31 May - Phu Sing Guesthouse - Chong Chom – 80
kilometres
Departing our wooden bungalows was with great
reluctance. However, following a quick stop at the 7-Eleven, we headed to a still
unknown destination. Again, the road led past rural areas and plenty of rice fields,
temples, and small villages where cows happily did the job mowing the lawn.
Our wanderings uncovered Prasat Chumphon. A sanctuary
dating to the Chenla period (550–706 AD); a pre-Angkorian Khmer state whose capital
was seated in the present Cambodian province of Kampong Thom. The sanctuary is one
of the oldest known Khmer temples in Thailand. What made it even more impressive
was the complex had no entrance fee, and except for cattle grazing, there was no
one around.
I love days like this, as one can marvel at the
simple things in life. Each field had a shrine, some rather rudimentary and
others more elaborate. People were incredibly welcoming, waving and calling “Sawadee”.
Eventually, we landed at the tiny hamlet of Chong Chom, well known for its substantial
cross-border market, and an uncomplicated border crossing into Cambodia. The market
sold an extensive range of goods, including clothes, kitchen equipment, tools, electronic
and electrical goods, food, used bikes, DVDs, handbags, and almost anything one
could think of.
1 June - Chong Chom – Prasat Muang Tam – 94 kilometres
The way to Pattaya, stuck close to the Cambodian
border. The wooded area where jovial ladies sold colourful mushrooms stacked neatly
on display. Temples were equally colourful as the recent Wesak day brought new ribbons
and fresh paint.
Like the previous day, the route passed more Khmer
ruins and an ancient kiln dating to the 9th and 13th centuries. Excavations revealed
green and brown glazed ware was produced here.
A short while later, at a pineapple vendor,
the lady peeled and cut us one and it turned out one of the sweetest pineapples
had in a while. These places made convenient filling of water bottles as the ever-present
enormous plastic iceboxes were usually filled with water and ice.
We slinked into Prasat Muang Tum, housing a 1000-year-old
Khmer temple at around 14h00. Muang Tum is one of the temples built in Angkor style
when the Khmer empire controlled large parts of Thailand. It’s situated along an
ancient road between Angkor Thom (present-day Siem Reap in Cambodia) to Phimai in
Nakhon Ratchasima province (further North West).
Already late but still blistering, we considered
it best to visit the temples in the morning.
2 June – Prasat Muang Tum – Non Din Daeng – 41
kilometres
A lovely breakfast was served at our abode, consisting
of rice porridge with added ginger, chillies and coriander. I absolutely loved it.
The meal was served with a few side dishes, including steamed palm cake in banana
leaves and fried dough or doughnuts.
Prasat Muang Tum’s ruins date to the 10th and
11th centuries and were once a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. The fall of the
Khmer Empire is a puzzle archaeologists and historians have struggled with for decades.
I believe there were many reasons for the weakening of the empire. Still, it’s thought
the principal factor was the change of religion. The introduction of the Buddhist
faith in the 13th century apparently (and understandably) sparked a controversial
disagreement throughout the monarchy. The new religion out-ruled the “God-king”
system and encouraged people to seek their beliefs and abandon worldly things. Phew,
I think any governmental change of religion could be the end of any country.
Marvelling at these magnificent ruins, took a
while and after a few pics, we got underway. Tiny Non Din Daeng was reached
after a mere 40 kilometres, but it sported comfortable looking accommodation. It
turned out even better than envisaged upon closer investigation, as it had ground
floor, motel-style rooms, a restaurant, and a substantial and beautiful garden.
3 June - Non Din Daeng – Aranyaprathet – 87 kilometres
Being well fed and rested, our first stop was
to buy flower garlands. Being on a plateau riding was easy and after about 20-25
kilometres, the road reached the plateau’s rim. Placing our trust in the good luck
garlands, we sped downhill like two teenagers. Flower garlands flapping in the wind,
we flattened ourselves and went as fast as the bicycles would allow, knowing full
well if we came off, it would spell disaster. Reaching the bottom of the hill we
continued in a more mature fashion to Aranyaprathet.
The inexpensive Aran Garden Hotel (without a garden),
offered rooms at 230 baht and thus signalled the end of the days’ ride. No time
was wasted in showering and rushing to the night market.
4 June – Aranyaprathet
A day of rest was spent in Aranyaprathet doing
nothing apart from laundry, updating the journal and eating everything in sight.
5 June - Aranyaprathet – Khao Chakan Forest Park
- 76 kilometres
With a pannier full of clean clothes, well-rested
legs, and a belly full of food, we set out in the direction of one more ruin known
as Prasat Khao Noi. Prasat Khao Noi was inhabited around the 12th – 13th Buddhist
century. Today the ruins sit atop a small hill of roughly 80 meters and are accessible
by a stairway of 254 steps. A lintel and inscription unearthed on-site dates to
637 AD, but was most likely re-used.
From the ruins, a beautiful ride led through the
countryside in the direction of Khao Chakan. The weather looked threatening and
even though a strong wind picked up and dark clouds gathered we, miraculously, never
got wet and arrived in Khao Chakan bone dry. That nights’ accommodation was a
fascinating set-up known as the Bus Resort, where old busses were converted into
overnight accommodation – an absolute novelty. At Khao Chakan, a near-vertical
staircase led to a massive hole in the mountain, offering views of the
countryside.
6 June – Khao Chakan – Sronlai Homestay – 94 kilometres
The section between Khao Chakan and Sronlai Homestay
was one of my favourite rides. One gets to cycle through the Khao Ang Ruenai Wildlife
Sanctuary (for the protection of wild elephants). Although an eye was kept out
for elephants, none were spotted. Only curious monkeys darted across the road
and swung from treetops. However, both old and fresh elephant dung was evidence
they were indeed in the area.
Sronlai Homestay was situated on a dam and
offered camping and bungalows. I opted to camp while Emiel took a room as he’d no
tent. I liked camping at the dam as the availability of canoes made pleasant
rowing at sunset. Suggesting this to Emiel, he laughingly claimed he’d no intention
of becoming sportsman of the year and preferred having a beer. My rubber arm was
easily twisted.
7 June – Sronlai Homestay – Pluk Daeng – 90 kilometres
Without a fixed destination, it became a pleasant
ride through the countryside, where water buffalo waddled in rivers and ladies fished
in small ponds. Onwards, we went past vast pineapple plantations and cashew and
rubber tree plantations. The odd-looking cashew with the nut growing outside never
fails to surprise. The road was what I term gently undulating, but Emiel had other
terms to describe the day. Eventually, we bedded down in Pluk Daeng, a place considerably
more substantial than the map suggested. Supper was from a nearby restaurant where
(quite understandably) not a word of English was spoken. Thank goodness, the
menu offered pictures to which one could point. When the food arrived, it
appeared we ordered soup in which floated a strange-looking head complete with eyes.
We burst out laughing, and ordered fried rice. On second thought, it could’ve been
eel, as it didn’t “taste like chicken”.
8 June – Pluk Daeng – Jomtien, Pattaya – 46 kilometres
In a drizzle, we made our way to Pattaya. It felt
strange to cycle into what I term “Sodom and Gomorrah” after spending nearly a
month in the countryside. It, nevertheless, was lovely to arrive back, and our first
stop was at Glenn’s bar to celebrate Emiel’s 1635 kilometres ride through Laos and
Thailand. Well done, Emiel, you did amazingly well, and you made it a relaxing and
fun trip.
