CYCLING
LAOS (2)
28
November – 4 December 2009
5 Days - 220 Kilometers
28 November - Jing Hong, China – Na Teuy, Laos (by bus)
Still
not feeling well, and as I’d previously cycled the route on the way north, I
set off to the regional bus station in search of a bus heading to the Laos
border. Luckily, a bus could take both me and the bike, and it became another
long and tiring bus ride.
As
rules go, border requirements change continuously. Approaching the Laos
immigration, a sign on the window listed all countries not being issued visas
at the border any longer (mainly African countries). With a sigh of relief,
South Africa’s name wasn’t spotted among them. (What a time to tell you, as by then
one had already been stamped out of China but would be unable to enter Laos).
This reminded me of how important it is to check border crossing details
beforehand. Nevertheless, crossing into Laos was straightforward, and, simply a
case of completing a form, presenting them with a mug shot, paying the money,
and a few minutes later you had your visa.
Being
back in Laos was good. The difference was immediately evident as chickens were
sold in woven baskets by the side of the road. Stilted homes lined the streets,
children, ducks and goats all wandered across the path freely. In general,
things were a lot less organised than in China, which I liked. With the time
already past 5 p.m. I decided to bed down and prepare for the long journey
south to Bangkok.
29
November - Na Teuy – Luang Nam Tha – 38 km
Biking
out of Na Teuy was on a cool, misty morning. Route 3 was a relatively new road
and in good condition. Not only was Luang Nam Tha closer than envisaged but the
road descended the best part of the way, not something I ever complained about.
Typical
to Laos, kids came running as soon as they spotted a foreigner, calling
“Sabaidee, falang” others merely stared dumbfounded.
Arrival
in Luang Nam Tha was early and I uncovered a room and booked a one-day trek
into the park the following day. Luang Nam Tha was an authentic Laos village
with a handful of shops, loads of backpacker-type guesthouses and restaurants,
a bank and a post office. The night market, as usual, sold cheap eats and was
an excellent place to pick up a bite before bed.
30
November - Luang Nam Tha
The
three-day hike would have been lovely, but too pricy, and instead, I settled
for the one-day walk. Early morning our small group of four set off by tuk-tuk
to the start of the hike.
Walking
in the forest, past waterfalls and thick indigenous forests was marvellous. Midday
we were served a traditional lunch of sticky rice and vegetables. The hike
ended at a small hilltop village where tea was served and where one could taste
the famous Lao Whiskey (moonshine) - it genuinely took your breath away!
1
December - Luang Nam Tha – Vieng Phoukha – 60 km
Upon
leaving, the morning mist was still lying thick in the valley. The day’s ride
was a short but picturesque one with mountains, covered in a lush, dense forest
along both sides of the road. For the most part, the route was downhill, making
an enjoyable ride. En route I met a fellow female cyclist on a two-month biking
holiday in South East Asia. We chatted a while and I was happy heading south
and not north.
A
roadside cave was begging to be explored, and a keeper collected a small fee to
guide one through the cave. Good thing as well, as the cave was black as night and
at least the keeper had a torch (albeit weak).
Reaching
Vieng Phoukha was around lunchtime where I located an excellent guesthouse with
wooden bungalows upon stilts overlooking the river. The place was tranquil and
peaceful and the landlady was extremely accommodating, making the place an
ideal overnight stop.
The
vegetable soup from her humble kitchen made a tasty meal. By evening, more food
was served, this time vegetables (predominantly water spinach fried in a wok
with soybean sauce, garlic and chillies) served with sticky rice. Sticky rice
was the main stable in Lao and was eaten with virtually anything. So sticky was
the rice one had to tear it apart, roll it in a ball and then dip it in your
food. The rice was served in a woven basket or wrapped in a banana leaf - immensely
filling and chewy.
2
December - Vieng Phouka - Houei Xai – 122 km
I
knew the day would be a long, slow one and departed early, at least by my
standards, but not until being served breakfast by my friendly host. Once the
early morning mist burnt off, the day became most pleasant. Although the day
started promising a few nasty hills were encountered. The path deteriorated,
becoming gravel in parts, making a dusty ride to the next village. Keen to
reach the border town of Houei Xai, I pushed onward regardless.
During
my ride I met three more cyclists heading north and after chatting a while we wished
each other Godspeed, and resumed our travels. The route was again scenic (like
all of Laos), and a pleasure out on the bike. The way south led past numerous settlements,
rivers and valleys. Rivers were the central bathing spot, and early afternoon it
became a noisy affair with kids laughing and squealing as the whole community
was there to take their daily bath.
Following
a good day of cycling, I pedalled into Houei Xai at around 17h00, all sweaty
and dusty and booked into the first available guesthouse.
3
December - Houei Xai
Houei
Xai was a small one-lane village along the Mekong River banks, sporting a
plethora of guesthouses and food carts. I handed in my laundry and spent the
day strolling along the river. By evening, Ernest reappeared and, as was the
case with me, looked hot, dusty and sweaty.
4
December - Houei Xai
One
more day was spent in little Houei Xai, and there wasn’t much more to do but
watch the sunset over the Mekong River.
