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| Photo by Ernest Markwood |
THAILAND (1) 20092311 Kilometres – 39 Days19
April–26 May 2009
17–19
April- Kathmandu, Nepal – Bangkok, Thailand - By Air
Following
a rather rushed visit to Nepal, we departed at 05h00 and biked through the
quiet, dark streets of Kathmandu to the Airport. However, there was no need to
arrive early as the flight, scheduled to leave at 9h00, only took off at 11h15.
Royal
Nepal Airlines touched down in Bangkok after two-and-a-half hours. A costly
taxi ride took us to the immensely touristy area of Banglamphu, where we
immediately experienced Thailand's sweltering heat. We huffed, puffed, sweated,
and finally had the bikes reassembled and panniers repacked.
With
its bars, restaurants, and street food vendors, the famous Khao San Road gave
us our first taste of Bangkok. Bangkok is a culinary feast for the brave of
heart. Ernest, never one to back away from a "smiley" (roasted sheep's
head in South Africa), enjoyed all that was on offer, including steaming bowls
of Thai noodle soup with offal.
20–22
April - Bangkok
Modern
Bangkok came as a pleasant surprise; without the constant hooting and drivers
obeying traffic rules, they even stopped allowing one to cross the street. This
came as a welcome change following six months in India.
A
few days were spent discovering Bangkok, where there were alleys that never
failed to amaze amidst ancient temples. These pedestrian lanes sold anything
from amulets to second-hand false teeth and bridges. I kid you not. The next
stop was Chinatown, whose warren of stalls offered the whole shebang, from food
to fluffy teddy bears and jewellery. I guessed it could take years to explore
the entire area. Then, on the Chao Phraya River ferry, the river was a hive of
activity, carting people and goods to and from their destinations. Getting
around by ferry wasn't merely easy but also a pleasure, as there was always a
cool breeze coming off the water.
23
April - Bangkok – Samut Songkhram – 78 km
Itching
to get underway, I was appalled to learn Ernest planned on heading straight to
Cambodia. I had no plans to leave Thailand without investigating the rest of
the country and its world-famous beaches. Nevertheless, I was adamant about
heading south, with or without him. Getting out of Bangkok was far less
stressful than even the smallest Indian town. No sooner were we on the bikes
than we found ourselves along a highway heading South-East. The heat and
humidity, I could tell, could be a significant factor. Although the weather was
already boiling early in the morning, the roomy shoulder and motorists obeying
traffic rules made cycling effortless.
Samut
Songkhram and its famous railway market provided convenient overnighting and a
hotel with air-con, a bar fridge and clean linen.
24
April - Samut Songkhram – Puk Tian Beach – 78 km
Sadly,
we'd to leave our luxury abode and brave the relentless heat for the ride
south. Shortly after departing a scenic coastal road turned off the highway.
Ernest, the "highwayman", didn't appreciate this deviation but all
long-lipped tagged along. So past marshy areas, salt farms (making one thirsty
just looking at it) and tiny settlements, we rode until reaching the beachy regions
along the Gulf of Thailand.
Finding
food was a bigger problem than envisaged. Being vegetarian wasn't a concept
Thais understood, or, more likely, I didn't know how to explain myself.
Vegetables seemed considered salad and seldom did I encounter the usual green
salad which I'm familiar with. My food of choice became lightly fried crispy
veg and noodles, which I loved. Ernest enjoyed the wide variety of dishes,
consisting mainly of meat and seafood accompanied by the ever-present staple of
rice.
At
Puk Tian Beach, a bungalow a block away from the beach was home that night. The
beach is dominated by a gigantic statue of one of the deities in the epic poem
Phra Aphai Mani, a 48,700-line poem from 1822, which took 22 years to write.
Once unpacked, we set out on the hunt to locate food and as anticipated, Ernest
had more success in this venture than I. I clearly had a few things to learn.
25-27
April - Puk Tian Beach – Hua Hin – 49 km
The
coastal route passed the resort town of Cha-Am, where holidaymakers enjoyed a Saturday
morning at the seaside. Later our way spat us out at the famous holiday town of
Hua Hin. The beach looked far too good a place to pass by, and we quickly
discovered a rickety guesthouse upon stilts in the old part of town overlooking
the ocean. High tide made water lap under the wooden deck, a pleasant spot for
a beer at sunset.
Hua
Hin Beach sported deck chairs where one could kick back in the shade and sip a
beer with the ocean lapping at your feet. The city was further famous for its
nightly food markets. Here one could choose from a considerable variety of
dishes but sadly no vegetarian food.
28
April - Hau Hin – Prachuap Khiri Khan – 98 km
Ernest
faffed around forever and thus late by the time we finally got underway. Thank
goodness, the way south was pancake flat, not a thing I ever complained about.
Halfway through the day, lunch was a bowl of noodle soup, which one could find
almost anywhere. Prachuap Khiri Khan's lovely village was reached relatively
early and a hut north of town was our abode of choice. The scenery resembled
the quintessential Thailand landscape of green jungle-coated limestone
pinnacles, postcard-pretty white sandy beaches and a blue-green ocean.
By
evening a walk into town revealed a lively night market featuring plenty to
choose from. Ernest lapped up oysters but didn't have the stomach for the
crispy fried grasshoppers, larvae, cockroaches, chicken feet and other bugs,
all served with a dash of soy sauce and a pinch of pepper.
29
April-1 May - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan (Thalu Beach) – 115 km
We
went a hundred and fifteen kilometres and shortly past Bang Saphan located Lola
Bungalows, right upon the beach amongst palm trees, exactly what I've been
dreaming of. With barely any tourists and a long white beach, the spot wasn't
simply straight out of a tourist brochure but less pricey. Supper was at a
restaurant a short walk beside the ocean, and I thought the day couldn't get a
great deal better. Needless to say, we stayed a few days, as it was very much a
swing-another-day-in-a-hammock kind of place.
2
May - Bang Saphan – Roadside Guesthouse – 89 km
Our
path followed the coast, a magnificent ride past miles of lonely beaches and
scenic bays. The cloudy weather made riding effortless, and we never got caught
in the rain we could see around us. A roadside bungalow provided a bed and
where we surprisingly, met a fellow South African, living in Thailand. The
establishment had a restaurant making it unnecessary to cook. Thai food was
quite delicious even if locating vegetarian food was tricky. The only problem
was, I didn't think the food was substantial enough to see one through a long
cycling day.
3
May – Roadside Guesthouse - Chumphon – 43 km
A
leisurely ride from our overnight stop proceeded to Chumphon via Hat Tha Wua
Laen Beach. Once in Chumphon, we headed to the well-known "Farang
Bar" a backpacker's favourite at the time. Luckily, we slinked in minutes
ahead of a heavy storm. What a pleasant surprise, the rooms were inexpensive,
and the establishment had a popular bar and restaurant. I was pleased with the
roof over my head with roaring thunder and an impressive lightning display. At
least these storms never lasted long. Once the weather cleared, we ambled along
to the nearby supermarket. We discovered bread, cheese and mayonnaise
(different from the usual green curry). En route to our abode Ernest uncovered
many tasty bits from the vast covered market but I noticed he gave the smoked
rats a wide berth. From Chumphon, one could organise boats to the nearby
islands, but my cycling partner wasn't keen on such ventures.
4
May - Champorn – Chaiya – 142 km
Ernest
received an e-mail from his friend Rossouw, saying they were holidaying in
Phuket but departing in four days. So we decided to race there to see if we
could catch them before their returned home. Ernest was delighted with the
urgent pace and it was pedal, pedal, pedal. At least the road was in good
condition. By evening Ernest cooked pasta in anticipation of our long-distance
the next day.
5
May - Chaiya – Au Leuk – 170 km
Again,
we'd our heads down and pedalled on, crawling into Ao Leuk just as darkness
fell.
6
May - Au Leuk – Phuket – 140 km
At
least the route was scenic as we rode the last long stretch to Phuket, crossing
the Sarasin Bridge, built in 1951 and said the first bridge to connect the
mainland to the island. The bridge is a mere 660 meters long and has a tragic
history. In 1973 two lovers jumped into the water after being denied a
relationship by the young lady's father. Their sad story has subsequently been
made into a film.
We
went a further forty kilometres from this bridge before slinking into town.
Once in Phuket town, a second look at the map revealed Rossouw and Dawn were at
Patong Beach on the island's opposite side. I was tired and believed it best to
stay put and do the last twenty kilometres in the morning.
7-8
May - Phuket – Patong Beach - 21 km
Although
a short distance to the Beach, the route led via a steep hill, and it took
walking the bike to the top. Hot and humid, I cycled right out of my sandals
and had to stop to don socks, preventing me from sliding out of my shoes.
We
met Rossouw and Dawn at their lovely hotel, high up upon a hill overlooking the
beach. After a chat and beer, we left to find a spot to stay in bustling
Patong. Not an exceedingly difficult task as the area was swarming with
tourists sporting various accommodations.
The
evening was spent enjoying a few Singhas to celebrate Dawn's 50th birthday.
Patong Beach is a lively tourist area packed with bars, restaurants, dive shops
and souvenir shops - not to mention scantily clad Thai girls enticing Farang
men - to the great delight of Ernest and Rossouw.
Two
days were spent at Patong, meeting with Rossouw and Dawn every so often for a
beer and a chat. Phuket was expensive, as could be expected from such a
well-visited destination. The unusual part was seeing elderly foreign men
proudly parading their young Thai girlfriends on their arms. I found the
concept of sex tourism somewhat immoral. The girls had the knack for making
these ageing men feel like a million dollars.
I've
a love-hate relationship with cities and touristy places as they are usually
far too overcrowded and costly. Still, they offer the luxury of a convenient
tourist infrastructure, whether internet, laundry services or pizzas.
I
loaded my photos on CD and bought a few small gifts for my nieces and nephews,
which Rossouw and Dawn kindly took to South Africa.
I
replaced the iPod's earphones, caught in the spokes, fiddling while cycling.
Then, finally, I bought toothpaste and a hair conditioner and, following all
the shopping, had to return to the ATM.
It
rained much of the 2nd day, leaving Rossouw and Dawn to return to their resort
during a rain torrent. The rest of the day was spent updating blogs and handing
in laundry. Unfortunately, doing laundry was no good as the clothes never
dried.
I
further located a sim card, to great delight of my family. Still, I could only
send but not receive SMSs.
9
May - Patong Beach – Thai Muang – 100 km
Our
late departure was due to waiting for the return of our laundry. Once all was
packed, we followed the west coast in a northerly direction. The plan was to head
to Ranong where one could do visa runs to Myanmar (Burma). So we ambled along,
past small beachy villages all still struggling to recover from the 2004
tsunami.
Arriving
at Tha Muang and keeping an eye out for accommodation a small, obscure sign
pointed to a lodge. A gravel path ran behind trees to remote bungalows. We soon
discovered the need for privacy as the establishment rented rooms by the hour.
Chalets thus came with an ample supply of condoms and toothbrushes, as well as
walls adorned by appropriate pictures (no heart-shaped bed though).
10
May - Thai Muang – Riverside Bungalows (Khao Lak) – 52 km
The
ride to Khao Lak was littered with scenic beaches, but the lack of budget
lodging made returning to the main road. Due to the 2004 Tsunami, the well-known
basic beach bungalows were all gone and new, fancy hotels were constructed
along the seashore. Slightly further a sign pointed to Riverside Bungalows and
camping. This was a great place with lush green gardens, gazebos and a great
pool. We pitched our tents and lazed around the pool the rest of the day. At
sunset, we were eaten alive by mosquitoes and hurriedly retreated to the tents.
By then, I wasn't just covered in mosquito bites and a heat rash but suffered
from a chronic upset stomach.
11
May - Khao Lak – Khuraburi – 83 km
Thailand
is a cycle touring paradise. The main roads are good, have spacious shoulders
for cycling, and the coast is peppered with gorgeous beaches. As we continued
north, we biked through densely wooded areas. Although sweltering and humid,
the area remained an absolute pleasure. Average temperatures were a minimum of
24C at night rising to between 36–40 during the day with a humidity factor of
75%.
Khuraburi
had riverside huts upon stilts. The setting (right over the riverbank) was good
and the price reasonable, and we parked our bikes, never haggling about the
price.
I
even managed to find a wi-fi connection in one corner of the deck and after
folding myself into a pretzel, managed to send a few e-mails. The easiest and cheapest
meal was instant noodles with added vegetables, something we ate nearly every
day.
12
May - Khuraburi – Hat Bang Ben (Laem Son National Park) – 83 km
The
stretch north of Khuraburi made a great day on the bike. Most of the coast in
that country was covered in mangrove swamps. We rode up and down hills and
through densely wooded areas until the turnoff to Laem Son National Park,
situated 10 km off the highway.
Hat
Bang Ben was located along a sandy beach sporting views of several nearby
islands. We found lodging near the beach and swam before cooking our usual
noodles.
13
May - Hat Bang Ben – Ranong – 60 km
A
pleasant amble took us into Ranong, and the Kiwi Orchard Guest House. The
guesthouse was a real backpacker's joint featuring a restaurant, bar, boat and
bus booking facilities. The reason for staying there was their visa-run service
to Burma, which we organised for the coming morning.
14
May - Ranong (Visa run to Myanmar)
The
visa run involved taking a boat to Myanmar to renew our Thailand visas. Boats
frequently scooted across the gulf to the border town of Kaw Thoung. Departing
Thailand to Burma, our long-tailed boat didn't sound all too healthy but
eventually got away in a cloud of smoke. Once there, $10 bought you a Burmese
visa as well as a stamp in and out of Burma. I was livid to find they granted a
two-week stay (not a day pass as assumed). If we knew, I sure would've arranged
a more extended visit.
Upon
returning, we weren't as fortunate as earlier. Our boat's engine exploded with
a thunderous bang, leaving us drenched in black oil and adrift in the ocean.
Mercifully, the crossing was a busy one and soon, help arrived. A similar boat
hooked us up and towed us towards our destination, but halfway gave up and
handed us over to another boat which took us the final stretch. Unfortunately,
the new boat didn't sound all healthy either. It burped and splattered but
eventually got us to the pier from where we'd departed a couple of hours
earlier.
Upon
closer inspection, and to our horror, we discovered the new visa merely allowed
a two-week stay and not a month as foreseen. This meant we'd to peddle like the
clappers to get out of Thailand in time.
15
May - Ranong – Kra Buri – 60 km
We
passed waterfalls, rivers, and beautiful forested areas to Kra Buri.
Comfortable looking A-frame huts lured us in and as the weather looked
threatening, we stayed put.
Under
the trees in cages, were small, pied songbirds with red cheeks which seemed a
popular part of Thai culture, particularly in that region. I always had a great
urge to set caged birds free; still, their song brought about a wonderfully
peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. Moreover, their melodious singing made it easy
to understand why practically all households had these birds. Add the many dogs
and cats who seem to co-exist surprisingly peacefully, gave the impression of
living on a vast farm.
16
May - Kra Buri – Chumphon – 68 km
Our
route ran east over the hills towards Chumphon, to the Gulf of Thailand. Again,
a pleasant day's cycling as the weather was cloudy but without any rain. We
bunked down at the Farang Bar in Chumphon, our previous accommodation.
The
constant heat caused Ernest and me to develop a heat rash - prickly heat. It's
pretty standard in the tropics, and easily treated with a powder or calamine
lotion. So not simply were we covered in mosquito bites but also in an
unsightly rash by then.
17
May - Chumphon – Bang Saphan (Lola Bungalows) – 114 km
We
emerged to a drizzle, a drizzle that continued throughout the day. Fortunately,
the temperature remained in the high twenties and cycling in the rain can be
quite a pleasant experience.
Still,
reaching Bang Saphan and Lola Bungalows where we could wash the day's drizzled
fuelled grime off, was a relief. Lola had such a great setting, right along the
shore; staying the night came easily. We once more cooked instant noodles and
it needs mentioning, I was slowly (or maybe not so slowly) becoming tired of
instant noodles.
18
May - Bang Saphan – Prachuap Khiri Khan – 100 km
From
Bang Saphan, we didn't take the coastal road (which I preferred) but the
highway, which made soul-destroying riding to Prachuap. Once in Prachuap, we
chose our previous ramshackle digs as Ernest was a man of habit. Unfortunately,
it wasn't the best place to shelter in rainy weather, as I could see the sky
through the roof. The floor wasn't all level either, and even on the toilet one
had to secure both feet firmly upon the ground not to slide off.
19
May - Prachuap Kiri Khan – Cha-Am – 132 km
With
limited time on our visas and seeing we've cycled this stretch a few weeks
earlier we got onto the highway, a dreadfully monotonous ride. Convincing
Ernest to get off the highway and onto more minor roads was a constant battle
that tired me emotionally. Once in Cha-Am, we opted for a two-day stay to sort
out my finances via the internet. Ernest had no money, or so he claimed, and I
was fast heading that way myself. Therefore, I needed to devise a plan to keep
us afloat.
21
May - Cha-Am – Samut Sakhon – 129 km
With
my finances sorted we resumed our ride along the coastal route to Cambodia,
still a few days cycling away. A mild tailwind pushed us onto Samut Sakon.
Roadside accommodation at a budget price offered air-con, TV and a bathtub,
something not seen in years.
Ernest
cooked pasta, which he'd been carrying in his panniers. It's incredible what
all came out of those panniers. Still, I considered walking to one of the
nearby mobile food carts more convenient.
22
May - Samut Sakhon – Chachoengsao – 110 km
From
Samut Sakhon to Chachoengsao was, and always will be, a dreadful traffic-laden
ride through southern Bangkok, a slow stop–start process. The first sixty
kilometres came with horrendous traffic through a densely populated area. Then,
mercifully, it cleared and proceeded through a more rural area adorned by
endless shrines and temples. Our rural road followed a canal lined by wooden
houses upon stilts, where villagers lived from fishing. I thought it remarkable
any fish remained in those rivers, as all kinds of fishing methods were
employed from Chinese nets to wicker baskets. The teeny fish caught were dried
in the sun on large bamboo tables. I felt hot, tired, hungry, and thirsty and
we stopped at a petrol station to take a breather. Petrol stations were
abundant and in general sported 7-Eleven shops and clean toilets. The weather
looked threatening, and we located a bed in a brand-new hotel next door. I was
convinced we were the first farang guests as we appeared a great source of
interest.
23
May - Chachoengsae - Sa Khao – 139 km
Tailwind
assisted, we peddled towards the border. Good time was made as we were trying
to out-cycle threatening looking clouds. Finally, Sa Khao was reached without
encountering thunderstorms, even though Ernest had a flat tire. At a reasonable
price, a bungalow at the far end of town was our digs that night.
Unfortunately, no sooner had we offloaded the bikes than the rain came pelting
down as it can only do in the tropics.
24-25
May - Sa Khao – Aranyaprathet – 58 km
A
short and hot ride led us into Aranyaprathet, the border town between Thailand
and Cambodia. An excellent spot to do laundry before proceeding and we hence
stayed an additional night. The Market Hotel was a well-geared backpackers
joint, and featured a restaurant, air-con, swimming pool and bar, and outdoor
ground-floor rooms, a good choice for cyclists. We woke to rain gushing down
and stayed put.
Aranyaprathet
had two bike shops, I replaced my much-worn gloves, and Ernest bought two new
tyres, thanks to a donation from his sister Olga. He probably would've also
purchased two spare rims if he had enough money.
26
May – Aranyaprathet, Thailand – Sisophon, Cambodia – 56 km
Cambodia
conjured up images of famine and mass killings. I was eager to see what the
country would hold – hopefully, none of the above. So, following a relaxed
start, we cycled to the border via the border market. The market was a massive
area with a warren of stalls selling everything imaginable. Most goods came
from Cambodia in a steady stream through the border post, pushed or pulled on
numerous heavily loaded hand-drawn carts.
Obtaining
a visa involved filling in a form, providing a photo, and visiting the
"swine flu" checkpoint to have our ears probed, and our temperatures
recorded.
Once
in Cambodia, one could tell you were out of well-organised Thailand and in a
slightly more chaotic Cambodia. The chaos was made even more so by Cambodians
driving on the right and trafficked weaved randomly between the lanes.
The
Cambodians seemed friendly enough as greetings "suostei" could be
heard from behind banana trees as we pedalled past.
Arriving
at Sisophon, our first town, we settled for digs to sass out our new
environment, change money, and find a new sim card. A rickety hut on stilts
came at $2 – considered a bargain even though one could see through the
floorboards. In general, things appeared somewhat cheaper than in Thailand. The
Cambodian Riel came at 4160 riels to a US dollar and bankcards got you dollars
at the ATM (which could then be changed to Riel). The markets quoted products
in Thai Bhat, dollars and Riels.
Strangely
enough in Cambodia, like in Thailand, all drinks came with a straw, even a can
of beer.
