40-42 EUROPE - PART 1
1
June – 4 July 2011
1 915 Kilometres - 33 Days
MAP
PHOTOS - FRANCE 1
PHOTOS - GERMANY
PHOTOS - AUSTRIA
PHOTOS - SLOVAKIA
PHOTOS - HUNGARY (2)
EUROPE
An
unexpected turn of events sent me from the Americas to South Africa to obtain a
European visa. Usually, my route takes me on a continuous path from country to
country. Still, this time I abandoned the Americas midway. Albeit not my first
choice, it was exciting to make this significant leap from South America. My
struggle to obtain a Schengen visa forced me to initially book myself onto a
pricy organised tour. This meant joining a group of cyclists for an entire
month. The price included the transport of panniers, food and accommodation.
There’s a first for everything.
1
June 2011
A
whole month passed doing zero except eating, drinking and smoking. I was thus
itching to return to the familiar routine of biking. Hence, I was ready to
scurry off to Paris to meet the tour. My worldly possessions were hurriedly
stuffed in a single bag (apart from the bicycle, of course). I’m convinced I’m
one of a tiny group of people whose material positions fit into one bag. The
tour organisers clearly stated that one could bring 2 x 90-litre bags, but all
my stuff fitted into one bag. This made me wonder what the others were taking.
I guessed it would soon be revealed what would be in those bags.
40
France (1)
510
Km – 10 Days
2
June - Cape Town, South Africa – Paris, France
At
last, I was on my way to Europe via Abu Dhabi and onto Paris. The flight was
relatively uneventful - merely the usual hours of boredom.
3
June - Paris
Soon
enough, though, my flight touched down in Paris, located on the River Seine and
home to Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton,
Yves Saint-Laurent, etc. I, nonetheless, had little use for these stores.
At
the pre-arranged hotel, the other cyclists were already busy reassembling bikes
in the wake of long flights. With the help of our bicycle mechanic, Gergo, my
bike was soon in tip-top shape. My bike lock seemed the sole thing of
importance left behind. Marion and Barry (from Australia) kindly lent me one of
theirs until I could replace mine. Together with David and Edna (also from
Australia), we’d had a bite to eat and all turned in early after our long
flights.
4
June - Paris – 35 km
The
group departed the hotel early morning to cycle to the city centre. The traffic
was light, which made a great amble through the streets of Paris. Past the
Eiffel Tower, around the Arc de Triomphe and onto the Louvre. Following a
coffee break we returned to the bicycles to ride along the bank of the River
Seine, ending at our hotel. Our guides, Ricardo, Miles and Gergo, gave a short
briefing on what to expect during the following days. Everything looked
well-organised, and it appeared we had a relaxing month ahead.
I
searched for a bike shop, invested in a helmet and bike lock, and was as keen
as the rest of the group to get underway and see what Europe had in store for
us.
5
June - Paris – Chenoise – 71 km
At
last, I was on my trusted iron horse and couldn’t have been happier. We left
Paris in a group and I felt like a dork as my fellow cyclists were dressed in
full cycling gear, whereas I was in my usual shorts, sandals and T-shirt.
However,
it was effortless meandering through the French countryside and past tiny
hamlets. Lunch was under trees before tackling the last few kilometres into
Chenoise. Arrival at the campsite was early. Being our first day of riding,
everyone fidgeted and sorted out tents and gear. The camp was located on a farm
with an extremely, as could be expected, French-looking farmhouse and loads of
horses, donkeys and ponies.
6
June - Chenoise – Troyes – 90 km
Being
early June, the
day dawned early and the farm animals made sure no one overslept. With
breakfast done, all felt energetic and ready to roll.
At
Provins, our path veered off to the old walled city with its ancient castle and
old houses. Later, we returned to our country lane, past vast farmlands, poppy
fields and small settlements. These communities were tiny and highly
French-looking, with stone-built houses and pretty windowsill flowers. Things
were somewhat organised and orderly in France to such an extent that the
villages biked through resembled ghost towns, as no peep came from any of the
properties. Even the “riot” encountered was so peaceful the march appeared a
well-rehearsed play.
We
were pleasantly surprised to find we were booked into a very comfortable hotel.
What luxury! Troyes is the historic capital of Champagne, and I was looking
forward to sampling some of their excellent sparkling wine.
7
June - Troyes
An
additional day was spent in Troyes, famed for its wood-framed houses and
Cathedral of St.
Peter and St. Paul. Word had it, The Order of the Knights Templar was founded
in 1128 by the Council of Troyes. Naturally, I was keen to find out more about
this mysterious history. Nevertheless, I met no one belonging to the Order but
uncovered heaps of Champagne and thoroughly enjoyed the day in Troyes.
8
June - Troyes – Val de Meuse – 140 km
Our
hotel provided a hearty breakfast; once done, all were eager to get going.
However, a nasty surprise awaited as the (locked) bicycles belonging to my
fellow South Africans, Evlyn and Alf, disappeared from the hotel’s parking
garage. I gained tremendous respect for them as they took this disaster in
their stride without making a fuss. They hurried to the bike shop and bought
two new bicycles to resume the tour.
While
at the bike shop, the rest of us set off on a beautiful path through the
countryside with numerous coffee and pastry breaks. Although reasonably cold,
the ride was nonetheless enjoyable. When Evlyn and Alf pedalled into camp,
their arrival was met with great applause for their strength of character and
how they handled the whole fiasco. A few bottles of red wine were consumed,
partly due to the cold and partly to celebrate the new bicycles. At 3 euros a
bottle, we felt no guilt.
9
June - Val de Meuse – Plombieres-les-Bains – 88 km
With
great reluctance, I crawled out of my warm sleeping bag as the weather was
freezing. From time to time, the sun threatened to come out but to no avail. En
route, we enjoyed the famed French cheese and bread; as expected, there was
quite a good variety.
Plombieres
came with tiny straight-up houses built along the mountainside and a few
thermal baths. A small eatery provided coffee before cycling the two kilometres
uphill to camp, where we arrived minutes ahead of the rain.
10
June - Plombieres-les-Bains – Munster - 86 km
Departing
camp was in freezing weather. With teeth chattering, we sped downhill into
misty valleys, past vineyards and quaint-looking hamlets. A long climb brought
us to a ski resort (fortunately, it was summer), where we ate a light lunch
accompanied by more coffee. Afterwards, we descended to the small settlement of
Munster, where we arrived with frozen fingers and toes. Two riders lost their
way but fortunately made it to Munster.
We
slinked into camp reasonably early and enough time remained to wander through
the streets of Munster, eyeing the storks nesting on the rooftops. Supper was
at camp, accompanied by a good dose of French wine.
41
Germany
800
Km – 12 Days
11
June - Munster, France – Freiburg, Germany – 68 km
Shortly
following breakfast, Alf, Evlyn and I set off on a gorgeous amble past timeless
communities. A short ride brought us to the Rheine River. Next, the path
crossed into Germany, where we immediately landed on a cycle path. The route
led through farmlands, and the architectural difference was immediately
evident.
Our
hotel in Freiburg turned out especially elegant. Regrettably, I was somewhat
ill-prepared for such an upmarket place. It felt claustrophobic in a room where
one couldn’t open the windows. I guessed it came from living in a tent far too
long. Alice and I shared a room. Alice was a lovely person and a strong cyclist
from Canada. She, however, didn’t feel well and turned in early.
12
June - Freiburg
A
day of sightseeing was spent in Freiburg (situated on the edge of the Black
Forest). It’s a charming
village with cobbled streets, trams, pavement cafes, street musicians, and a
plethora of old buildings. Kids were floating boats in the water furrows and
people were out and about enjoying the sunny weather.
Judging
by the variety of beers available, one could tell this was indeed Germany. We
wasted no time in sampling the various brews. In addition, there wasn’t any
shortage of cuckoo clocks, as they originated from this part of the world.
Freiburg further had an astonishing number of bicycles.
13
June - Freiburg – Donaueschingen – 75 km
A
fabulous breakfast spread provided energy, and we saddled up and biked out of
Freiburg. The road led partly through the Black Forest with gorgeous scenery.
Dense forests lined our narrow path while a musty wooded smell permeated the
air. The wood business still appeared in full swing and practically all houses
were thus timber homes. The route wasn’t without a climb up a hill or two but
came with an equally good descent.
Donaueschingen
is the official start of the Danube River, signalling the end of our day’s ride.
The town sits at a surprisingly low altitude for such a mighty river. The city
is further the start of the world-renowned Danube cycle trail. We biked the
trail for a few kilometres before slinking into our campsite at Pfohren. The
camp was packed with cyclists, and we met a couple (Tamar and Keith from the
UK) cycling on a tandem recumbent bicycle. I was given a ride, which was quite
an unusual experience.
14
June - Donaueschingen – Sigmaringen – 86 km
From
Donaueschingen to Sigmaringen was a
brilliant cycle via the Danube cycleway. Here we experienced our first sunshine
of the trip. The path was immensely popular and we came across heaps of
families with small kids enjoying the outdoors.
Our
route passed castles, forests and villages where we stopped numerous times to
have coffee. This all added to a social ride with no rush to get to the camp.
Miles
was an excellent chef and he again cooked a tasty meal. A drizzle set in, which
sent us scampering to our tents early.
15
June - Sigmaringen – Ulm – 115 km
The
Danube cycleway is a bicycle trail that follows the Danube River. The river
runs from its source at Donaueschingen for 2850 kilometres to where it flows
into the Black Sea in Romania. The
cycleway is a dedicated path for nearly the entire distance. Still, the terrain
was far more varied than I’d foreseen. The trail crossed the Danube several
times and followed the river in an easterly direction. What an absolute
pleasure to amble along this path.
Arrival
in Ulm was in good time, and after stopping numerous times for coffee and
pastries. By evening, all walked into town searching for an authentic German
restaurant. We’d no problem finding one and pigged out on Wiener schnitzel,
sauerkraut and Swabian noodles, all washed down with a few pints of German
beer.
16
June - Ulm
A
day of rest was spent in bustling Ulm, giving time to do the regular rest day
chores, i.e., laundry, internet, etc. Ulm is home to the church with the
tallest steeple globally and Albert Einstein’s birthplace. There were,
therefore, plenty of sights and attractions to uncover in this very fascinating
city.
17
June - Ulm – Eggelstetten – 104 km
To
a cyclist, there is nothing quite like a breakfast buffet! Before leaving, we
filled our stomachs from an enormous spread of fruit, cereal, bread and cheese
before ambling further east.
We
must have impressed the owner of a coffee shop with our “Paris – Istanbul” bike
signs, as he offered us freshly baked pretzels, which came out of the oven
piping hot. In addition, he generously provided us with a sample of homemade
sausage before we set out through the forest.
Although
the path was clearly signposted, we still managed to pick the wrong route. Not
that it made any difference - all routes were scenic and eventually spat one
out in the next town.
18
June - Eggelstetten - Kipfenberg – 100 km
Due
to our early nights, people generally got going early. It felt like I was the
only slow one as I didn’t think there was any rush going anywhere.
In
general, the group set off together but soon split up as each pedalled at their
own
pace, taking photos, drinking coffee or sampling the cuisine. Our days took on
a comfortable rhythm, except for the weather, as it drizzled most days.
The
town of Eichstatt looked worth exploring, but I kept going as by then, I’d lost
the rest of the group and didn’t feel like investigating in the rain.
Nevertheless, biking was enjoyable, and I reached camp early.
Soon
the others arrived, and tents were pitched in a constant drizzle. Fortunately,
the camp showers were piping hot and the rain abated later that evening. The
cold weather seemed to encourage the consumption of an unprecedented amount of
red wine and chocolate. The red wine fuelled in-depth discussions of the
world’s energy crisis. As with virtually all good talks, we all crawled in
content, knowing we’d solved the world’s problems.
19
June - Kipfenberg – Regensburg – 100 km
In
a constant drizzle, we continued, which made an excellent excuse to stop for
coffee and pretzels. Despite the weather, it remained a pleasure to meander
past small settlements, forests and farmlands. We watched barges manoeuvring
through sluices while slowly making their way upstream.
Somehow,
I missed the lunch spot but noticed a cycle path and continued downstream until
famous Regensburg. By evening, all went to a German restaurant for more
schnitzel, sauerkraut and Swabian noodles.
20
June – Regensburg
Regensburg
was a fascinating town with a medieval centre, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The old town was crammed with old houses, churches and narrow cobblestone
lanes. Apparently, it’s the only intact historic city in Germany. Moreover, the
stone bridge over the Danube River was built between 1135 and 1146, making it
pretty unique.
21
June - Rederenburg – Straubing – 52 km
A
short but delightful day of riding took us from Rederenburg to Straubing. Soon
after leaving, we came upon a very Greek-looking building, the history of which
still eludes me. However, with the short distance, we stopped more than usual
to investigate or sample the food.
Chris
was the lone racer in the group and customarily finished the day’s ride hours
ahead of anyone. Francois (from Canada), Michelle (New Zealand) and Jacky
(Australia) were all strong cyclists and usually set a good pace. Barry, Marion
and Alice were all experienced cyclists and were typically right on the heels
of the fast cyclists. The rest of us trailed far behind.
22
June - Straubing - Passau – 100 km
Our
last day in Germany arrived and, at last, the sun made an appearance. We had a
fantastic day, except for John (from Canada) who had an accident and had to be
taken to hospital to have his leg seen to. Fortunately, Barry and Marion were
there when the accident happened and could attend to his injuries until staff
could get there by van and transport him to hospital. I couldn’t think of a
better couple to have with you when something like that happened, as they were
caring and compassionate people.
We
stopped to have coffee and later for lunch, as due to the accident, there was
no lunch truck. Eventually, we rode on to famed Passau, where the campground
was picture pretty and fitted with good showers. Supper was excellent, but the
rain made short work of this social gathering. A few bottles of red wine helped
ward off the cold.
42
– Austria – Slovakia – Hungary
605
Km – 8 Days
23
June - Passau, Germany – Linz, Austria – 100 km
Edna,
Sterling, John, Evlyn and Alf opted for a boat ride on the Danube from Passau
to Linz, a scenic part of the river. I felt sorry for John as he dearly wanted to
cycle, but cycling wasn’t a good idea with his leg stitched up. John was a
university professor from Canada and a wise and kind man, and the last person
in the world one wants things like this to happen to.
The
rest of us saddled up and followed the river to the Austrian border. Soon, a
small and faded sign indicated the border between Germany and Austria.
David
and I joined forces and later met up with the others as we stopped to have our
usual coffee break. We spotted the riverboat carrying our friends six
kilometres before Linz, and we waved frantically to attract their attention. We
then raced the boat to its mooring point, where we waited for them to
disembark. Afterwards, we all biked the last few kilometres to camp together.
Regrettably, no sooner were our tents up than the dreaded rain returned.
It
turned out a public holiday in Austria, and all shops closed. Shopping for
ingredients to cook was thus virtually impossible. As a result, we ate at a
nearby restaurant.
24
June - Linz – Emmersdorf – 110 km
From
Linz, we followed the river east but turned off to visit the Mauthausen
concentration camp. What a depressing sight. Soon afterwards, we made the day’s
first coffee stop, after which I set off downstream, powered by a strong
tailwind.
We
were undoubtedly in the land of Heidi and the Sound of Music. The
scenery was sublime, making a pleasant day of biking as the rain held off and
the sun peeped through the clouds every now and again.
Sadly,
this was Evlyn and Alf’s final day of riding as they were to fly home in the
morning. Bicycles were taken apart and boxed, and tents rolled up and stuffed
into the bike box. They booked into a B&B and it was sad to see them go as
they were very likeable people.
At
camp, John’s leg was cleaned and redressed. Fortunately, Sterling was a medical
doctor and kept a close watch.
25
June - Emmersdorf – Vienna – 120 km
The
route to Vienna was
particularly scenic past vineyards, cherry trees, apricot plantations and small
settlements. These tiny communities were steeped in history and came with
cobblestone streets, quaint houses and old churches complete with human
remains. There seemed a castle on each hilltop, mostly still in good nick.
Losing
the group was no disaster and I enjoyed a day alone. Although it’s nearly
impossible to get lost in this part of the world, a few riders lost the
official path and landed themselves on muddy tracks. However, we eventually
made our way to the pre-arranged hotel in Vienna and looked forward to two days
at leisure.
26
- 28 June - Vienna
Vienna
or Wien, the capital of Austria, is the largest city in the country and was
swarming with tourists. We couldn’t have picked a better time to arrive in
Vienna. The Danube Island Festival was taking place, and the island was packed
with bandstands, food stalls and
entertainment.
The
city had numerous sights and attractions. I roamed the crowded streets, eyeing
the colossal Ferris wheel but couldn’t find anyone to join me. Instead, I
enjoyed innumerable cups of their famous coffee. Vienna is home to great music
and a person doesn’t have to go far to find piano makers and opera houses.
The
old and the new seemed to blend effortlessly in Vienna. Hectic city traffic,
old-fashioned trams and horse-drawn carts seemed to co-exist happily. For that
matter, so did Armani, Strauss and Mozart. Coffee shops and Bratwurst stalls
abounded. One could find opera tickets and tickets to Mozart concerts on almost
every street corner.
Vienna
has enough art nouveau buildings to satisfy anyone; Otto Wagner must have been
an immensely busy man. All in all, a fantastic city with bicycle lanes,
substantial parks, pavement cafes, music houses, opera theatres, and coffee
shops - all situated on the banks of the famous Danube River. It’s no wonder
Vienna is such a touristy place.
28
June - Vienna, Austria – Bratislava, Slovakia – 65 km
Two
days were spent in Vienna to sightsee and welcome the new arrivals. Included in
this group were two South Africans (Mieke and PC), Paul from the USA (whom I’d
met previously on Tour d’Afrique), Mark from Australia and Rudolf from Canada.
Departing Vienna was in a group to the
city’s outskirts. Then, a relaxed amble to the Austrian/Slovakian border.
John’s
legs improved, and he must have been relieved to return to cycling. The two of
us set a relaxed pace and, from time to time, pedalled with Mieke and PC.
Following a quick coffee break, we arrived at the Austrian/Slovakia border.
Border crossings in Europe were relatively unremarkable. However, one needed to
be pretty alert to spot these tiny signs high up on poles. Four kilometres
later, we found ourselves in Bratislava, where accommodation was in a
boathouse. All were somewhat surprised at our unusual accommodation. Not merely
was it unique, but also extremely comfortable with large and spacious rooms.
Bratislava
was beautiful, friendly and culturally rich. As we marvelled at our new
environment, I strolled the city streets with Marion and Barry. A short bike
ride brought us to a new culture, language and architecture. A walk up a hill
took us to a castle with enough nooks and crannies to keep us occupied a few
hours. The old town had a great deal to offer, and the remainder of the day was
spent exploring. Dinner was on the boat and the food was excellent. Later a few
of us walked into town, where we had a glass of red wine compliments of PC.
29
June - Bratislava, Slovakia – Komarom, Hungary – 116 km
The
time came to leave our boathouse, and we rode together out of Bratislava. Soon
the group split up, with Chris, Francois, Michelle, and Jacky
taking the lead. Barry, Alice, John and Marion were in close pursuit, followed
by Stirling, David and Edna. The rest of us ambled on in our own sweet time.
Cycling mainly was with my fellow countrymen, Mieke and PC, who enjoyed
sampling the local brew.
At
Komarom, we encountered one more border crossing, this time even more
inconspicuous. Then, finally, we crossed from Slovakia into Hungary, where I
ended my trip with the Orient Express as I planned to leave the group in
Budapest.
With
that, it was Mieke’s birthday. We didn’t merely have cake but also consumed a
substantial amount of red wine. Francois tried his best to teach us a few words
in French but eventually gave up.
30
June - Komarom – Budapest – 94 km
My
final day of cycling with the group arrived, and I enjoyed my last luxuries.
The day consisted of a good road through beautiful scenery and over a few hills
to the lunch truck. After lunch, all biked together into the city of Budapest.
That
evening, the majority of us went out to enjoy a few beers and good Hungarian
food. I’d made such good friends and felt pretty sad to see them carry on
without me, but I’d already cycled that stretch and wanted to explore a different
part of Europe.
From
Budapest, the plan was thus to return to France by train and then head west in
Lisbon’s direction. Gergo was kind enough to find the train info; all that
remained was to buy the ticket and bike to the station.
1
– 3 July - Budapest
Two
days were spent sightseeing in Budapest as the city came with remarkable architectural
heritage. There was much to see and do in this beautiful city. By evening, we
looked for restaurants to indulge in the local cuisine.
In
Budapest, one can frequent the Romkocsma (literally ruin pubs). These are pubs
in the courtyards and gardens of abandoned houses or commercial buildings. You
don’t see anything from the outside apart from people drifting about with their
plastic beer glasses. Sometimes a beefy guard made sure people didn’t get too
noisy, as these places were usually in residential areas. Once inside, the
courtyard offered live music, alternative exhibits, and films, and stayed open
until at least 4 a.m. As Gergo’s band played at one of these pubs, we followed
him for a few beers.
What
a lovely group of people they were. On departing, PC and Mieke presented me
with a farewell goody bag. The goodie bag was exceptionally well thought
through. It contained all the essentials: cup-a-soup, instant noodles, an
energy drink, sweets and, of course, a small bottle of wine. xxx
On
the morning of 3 July, I finally waved goodbye to my friends as they sped off
to the Romanian border. I returned to my room to work on my blog updates. My
train ticket was booked for the 5th and I’d plenty of time to kill
until heading back to Paris.
4
July - Budapest
After
collecting my laundry, I sauntered around the city centre with PC (who had to
return to Budapest to collect his new passport). Then, back to my room to start
repacking my panniers.
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