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VIETNAM (3.1), CAMBODIA (5) & THAILAND (12)
3 October – 17 October 2017
14 Days – 1099 Km
MAP
PHOTOS - CAMBODIA (5)
PHOTOS - THAILAND (12)
VIETNAM
(3.1)
5
Days – 258 Km
3–4
October – Hanoi – Saigon - By Train – 34 Hours
Tania
thoroughly enjoyed her time in Southeast Asia and chose to linger an additional
month. Nevertheless, I’d arranged to meet my sister Amanda in Bangkok and thus
had less than two weeks to accompany her. Come hell or high water, I’d to be in
Bangkok on 18 October. Therefore, the best plan of action was to catch a train
to Saigon
and cycle South via the Mekong Delta and Coastal Cambodia to Thailand. However,
one crucial task remained: getting our Thailand visas in Phnom Penh. As the
process took three days, the last thing we wanted was to arrive in Phenom Penh
on a Friday!
Before
departing Hanoi, enough time remained to meet with friends Bret and Hayley. They
always picked the best restaurants for our rendezvous, and the evening was thoroughly
enjoyable.
The
following day, Tania and I made our way to the station and once there, staff
advised us to pack the panniers in one large bag, sold at a nearby shop. Once
all was done and the necessary forms completed, barely enough time remained to
board the train.
The
cabin was a four-bed one ensuring a comfortable journey. Each berth sported a
reading light and electrical point, handy to charge electronic devices as there
wasn’t much more to do but play on the internet. A food cart came by, offering
breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A snack trolley further delivered nibbles throw-out
the day. The assumption the ride took 24 hours was clearly incorrect as following
24 hours, the train was nowhere near Saigon. Instead, we learned it was a 34-hour
trip, resulting in arriving in Saigon after dark and the baggage collection
office closed. However, a nearby hotel allowed collecting the bikes the next morning.
5
October – Saigon
On
collecting the bicycles, the professionalism of the Vietnamese railway surprised
us as the bikes and panniers arrived intact and on time.
Though
Saigon offered surprisingly few attractions, the day was spent sightseeing.
Nevertheless, it remained pleasant enough to wander and sample typical
Vietnamese street food. We started by eating a Vietnamese pancake or bánh xèo
(pronounced BAN-sew), a crispy crepe-like layer made of a mix of turmeric
powder and rice flour, stuffed with various ingredients. Still, most common are
veggies, mung beans and meat, sometimes seafood or pork. Lunch was Vietnamese
spring rolls, something different from the ever-present deep-fried food. Instead,
the translucent parcels are filled with salad greens, a sliver of meat or
seafood and a layer of coriander, before being neatly rolled and dunked in
Vietnam’s favourite condiment -- fish sauce. As if this wasn’t enough, we
nibbled on Vietnamese Savory Mini Pancakes (Banh Khot).
The
traffic alone was something to witness, as it’s said the city is home to 7.3
million motorbikes. It must be mentioned here that practically everyone
referred to the city by its old name, “Saigon” instead of TP Ho Chi Ming City (quite
a mouthful). The only one’s referring to it by its proper name seemed the
officialdom. Still, it remains a bustling city offering a lively touristy
trade.
6
October - Saigon – Vinh Long – 123 km
We
were well rested and fed and excited to get underway and set out to face the
notorious Saigon traffic. Unfortunately, the only way to get out of Saigon was
to join the sea of motorbikes and scooters. The city is massive, and we were in
the thick of it the best part of the morning. Eventually, our path cleared the
city limits, and I was relieved and proud we managed to make it out of Saigon
unscathed.
Only
once at My Tho were there opportunities to find smaller paths. Our way led past
a never-ending string of interesting stuff. Small birds and rats were on offer
at eateries, making us want to give it a try. Tania is an adventurous eater and
ordered grilled rats right off the rotisserie, surprisingly tasty.
The
narrow paths which ran next to the river led through communities that made and
sold coconut sweets, famous in the region. The delta is a watery world and no
less than three times ferries were required before arriving in Vinh Long. Virtually
all boats had eyes painted on their bows. Fishermen and seafarers of all
countries are known for their superstitions, and the Vietnamese are no
exception. Some say that the eyes are intended to help the boats at sea find
their way to land. Others say the eyes are meant to scare off sharks or water
monsters or are intended to bring good luck and fortune. Some fishermen believe
their boats are like fish – beings with souls that must also have eyes to steer
clear of danger. Whatever their purpose, eyes adorn boats, both big and small. We
further understood that painting eyes on boats are a vital ritual often
associated with a ceremony to “open the eyes” of the vessel and bring it to
life.
7
October - Vinh Long – Chau Doc – 135 km
The
Mekong River originates high in the Tibetan plateau. It then passes through six
countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia before ending its 5 000
km long journey in Vietnam, where it drains into the South China Sea. Southern
Vietnam is mainly low lying, and this mighty river empties into the ocean
through a network of streams, rivers and canals. The delta is thus a fertile
place. Our route led past coconut plantations, banana trees, mangos and
rambutan plantations, only to mention a few. Our chosen path was a tiny one
running next to one of the innumerable branches of the Mekong. These waterways
were busy where boats of all shapes and sizes jostled for position. We pedalled
past markets and farmers working in the fields, past traders selling wares from
mobiles shops and across numerous rivers where houses precariously balanced on
stilts.
All
day dark clouds loomed, but we luckily never got caught in the weather. Coconut
and sugar cane juice vendors abounded and countless cups of Vietnamese coffee later,
we realised there remained 75 kilometres to go. It required stepping on it a tad
to reach Chau Doc before dark.
In
the dying moments of the day, we slinked into Chau Doc, where a decision was
made to use the Mekong River ferry to get to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. The ticket
was $15 plus $7 for the bike, which we considered a bargain.
CAMBODIA
(5)
7
Days – 483 Km
8
October - Chau Doc, Vietnam – Phnom Penh, Cambodia - by boat and minivan
The
boat trip wasn’t expected as it only went as far as the Cambodian border and
not Phnom Penh. On second thought, the price was far too low for a trip to
Phnom Penh but included a minibus ride to Phnom Penh. Still,
it remained an exciting boat ride, past houses on stilts and fishing vessels
both big and small.
In
Phnom Penh, we set to work straight away and got copies of flight tickets and made
copies of bank statements all things needed to apply for a Thai visa.
Once
all the formalities were done, it was good to shoot the breeze with friends,
Mat, Chop and Teresa, while having a few beers.
9
October – Phnom Penh
First
thing in the morning, we were off to the embassy armed with all the necessary
documents, only to discover the embassy closed. Not a word was mentioned on
their website, but little one could do. However, it could’ve been a blessing in
disguise as Tania discovered the “Lucky Motorbike Shop” (who also acted as visa
agents) could apply for a Thai visa on her behalf. As the visa processing took
three days, they offered to forward it to wherever we found ourselves at the
time. Having limited time, this was fantastic news. I opted for the 14-day
border visa as I planned to visit Cambodia with my sister within two weeks. That
way, I would save a page in the passport, which was filling up way too fast.
10
October – Phnom Penh – Prey Lovea – 86 km
We
first drank coffee with Mat and then departed busy Phnom Penh searching for small
paths along the Mekong River. It turned out quite
an adventurous day as a ferry took us across the river and landed us in a highly
rural area.
The
first part of the route was stunning, tranquil, and clearly, not a path foreigners
took. We got plenty of stares and our actions were observed with great
interest. It didn’t take long to learn why, as the way became one potholed,
muddy mess. The bikes slipped and slid as the track weaved, and snaked around
potholes until eventually spitting us out at a ferry across the river. Still,
the area remained rural, and people were drying and dying grasses used for
weaving mats. Others were drying rice, men herded cattle or fished while bare-foot
monks in bright orange robes collected food. This was truly an interesting part
of the country. Still, the road didn’t improve, and mud clogged our wheels,
making riding near impossible.
A
second ferry took us across the Bassac River and in the direction of Kampot.
Our attempt to escape the traffic worked but it came at a price as the route
remained potholed and muddy, at times more clay than mud, making slow and
exhausting riding. It, nevertheless, remained a fascinating day in an immensely
rural part of Cambodia.
Around
17h00, the small settlement of Prey Lovea came into view and though plans were on
camping at the temple, a guesthouse sporting a shower and fan lured us in. But,
of course, the first thing on our minds was food. Thankfully food is always in
abundance in Cambodia.
11
October - Prey Lovea – Kampot – 127 km
“This
is Cambodia, baby,” Tania uttered (her, by then, trademark saying) as we biked
off in the early morning light past green rice fields and wooden carts loaded
to the hilt with all kinds of gear. First, our route ran past typical Cambodian
eateries selling steamed pork buns, tiny grilled birds, barbecued duck heads
and other unknown grilled animals. It wasn’t long before weakening and bagging a
few steamed buns. Next, the way led through hamlets where tiny kids on small
bicycles were off to school. A few even gave friends a ride. Their excellent
balance on a bike was clearly learned at a young age.
12
October – Kampot – Sri Amble Temple – 127 km
Leaving
Kampot was across scenic rivers where fishing boats lay four-deep. Past oyster
farms where child labour wasn’t an uncommon sight, and we waved at monks and
their helpers collecting food. At Vinh Real, the weather came in, but a
conveniently located restaurant made a good hiding place. The weather soon subsided,
allowing us to continue our ride towards the Cambodian/Thai border, still a two-day
ride away.
Reaching
Sri Amble, ominous-looking weather made us turn down a dirt track to a small
community where camping was at a temple. The temple was busy with predominantly
kids, around 8 to 13 years of age. We were undoubtedly the centre of attraction
and had little privacy as the eating hall doubled as sleeping quarters for us
and the kids.
13
October – Sri Amble – Trapeang Rung – 80 km
The
next morning breakfast was noodle soup from a typical eatery of corrugated iron
and a dirt floor. As can be imagined, these were always fascinating stops, as
not only were we alien to them, they were equally foreign to us. It appeared a
rarity seeing women on bikes and uncomfortable smiles were exchanged slurping
our noodle soup.
The
remainder of the day was a short but hot and hilly ride as the road headed over
the Cardamom Mountains. The hills weren’t steep, but still made slow going. We
didn’t mind, as it remained a beautiful part of Cambodia.
Kids were fishing in ponds, using ingenious methods and others were herding
buffalo or tending cattle.
Lunch
was at Trapeang Rung, a small community-based tourism village. It offered
plenty of restaurants, and the food was delicious. However, the weather came in.
As Trapeang Rung sported a brand-new homestay, we succumbed to temptation and stayed
put. Good thing, too, as it pelted down the remainder of the evening.
14
October - Trapeang Rung – Koh Kong – 63 km
The
next day was the last part of the hilly section and we felt amazingly strong following
a noodle soup breakfast. However, hills aren’t something one can fight on a laden
bike and “easy does it” remained the best cause of action.
Halfway
to Koh Kong, the weather came in. There wasn’t much one could do but don rain
jackets and push on. The Cardamom Mountains are picturesque, and although the rain
clouded our view it remained a beautiful ride. Once over the high point and even
with rain gushing down, we reached speeds of 53 kilometres per hour. The ride
was a tad risky as water streamed across the road, making it impossible to spot
potholes or other hazards. Still, we rolled into Koh Kong early and after
locating accommodation, collecting Tania’s passport was a priority. She was delighted
to learn the passport had arrived. Phew, what a relief.
Once
all was done, we were ready to cross the border into Thailand. However, there
remained 340 kilometres to Pattaya, and I needed to be there in three days to
meet my sister.
THAILAND
(12)
3
Days – 358 Km
15
October - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand – 108 km
In
the wake of a bowl of noodle soup, we waved goodbye to Cambodia, crossed the
river and cycled to the immigration point at the Cambodian/Thai border. After
being stamped out of Cambodia and into Thailand the road continued along the
Gulf of Thailand. Both Tania and I still had Thai Baht and Thai SIM cards from our
previous visit and thus, no need to draw money or buy new cards.
After
lunch a smaller path took us through villages, always a pleasure. The route ran
close to the coast and offered lovely vistas and several coffee stops. Then, back
on the bikes the threatening weather caught us but donning our plastic
raincoats, we pedalled on to Trat. Mercifully, the weather looked worse than
what it turned out and we slinked into Trat
shortly before sunset.
16
October - Trat – Klaeng – 135 km
Following
discussions, Tania wanted to give cycle touring a try on her own. Trat to
Pattaya was a pleasant bike ride along the coast and we planned on meeting
again in Pattaya. I hopped on the bike and gunned it out of Trat before she
could change her mind as I knew she could do this. I felt strong and pushed on.
My
sister Amanda was arriving in two day’s and I’d to be there to meet her. I thus
wasted no time and pedalled onto Klaeng.
17
October - Klaeng – Pattaya – 115 km
I
was up early, had a quick breakfast and was keen to get underway. Luckily,
cycling was effortless and I was happy to ride into Jomtien where I could
offload my stuff, do laundry and most of all have a long and hot shower. Afterwards,
I popped downstairs to the pub where I’d a few beers with friends and where I
could relax before my sister’s arrival the following day.
