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| Photo By Ernest Markwood |
15 JORDAN (2)
624
Km – 18 Days
21
February – 10 March 2008
MAP
PHOTOS
FLIP-BOOK
PDF
21-22
February – Nuweiba, Egypt – Aqaba, Jordan - 28 km
From
Nuweiba, Egypt, one could cycle via Israel and Lebanon to Turkey, or take the
ferry to Jordan and cycle via Syria. As it was difficult or near impossible to
enter Syria with an Israeli stamp in the passport, the straightforward ferry
to Jordan was a no-brainer. The ferry departed at five instead of three p.m., so we arrived in Jordan after dark and had to cycle for an hour in the dark to reach the city centre.
After
a good night’s sleep, the next day was spent exploring our new country and Aqaba
while strolling along the beach where Jordanians swam fully clothed. However, two
surprises awaited: first, things were rather expensive because the Jordanian dinar was strong, and second, it became clear that Jordan was another mountainous
country.
Aqaba’s
old town, where we bunked down, offered an exciting dose of ancient Arabia
centred around a souq. These markets were fascinating and offered a peek into Jordanian life. Cafés were packed by men in kaffiyehs, smoking shisha
pipes and sipping the local brew. I imagined a camel as a more appropriate
means of transport than a bicycle. The market offered the best food in Aqaba, including
delicious hummus. Unused to the currency, I bought one JD’s falafel and received
two full bags, enough for supper, breakfast and lunch!
23
February - Aqaba - Ras an-Naqb – 88 km
Ernest
and I followed the King’s Highway, an ancient north-south trade route dating back to prehistoric times, connecting Africa to Mesopotamia. This ancient route ran
from Egypt, via the Sinai Desert, to Aqaba and then north to Damascus.
As romantic as it may sound, the area was mountainous, and the hills made riding exhausting. Nevertheless, we pushed on until reaching Ras An-Naqib, where we pitched
the tents next to the road at more than 1,600m above sea level. I realised it wasn’t
my imagination - it was an uphill trek.
24–26
February – Ras an-Naqb – Wadi Musa – 44 km
The
next morning was an easy 44 kilometres to Wadi Musa. The Valentine Hotel, sporting
pink walls, red curtains and a mirror above the bed, lured us in and became
home for the next few days.
We
parked in Wadi Musa to explore the ancient city of Petra (known as the Rose City for the colour of its sandstone cliffs). Although my second visit was short, Petra was no less impressive.
Petra
is a remarkable place, and I failed to see how it couldn’t impress even the
most seasoned traveller. Dating to 300 BC, it was the capital of the Nabatean
Kingdom. However, the most impressive part of the visit was the entrance. Following
a narrow canyon walk, it suddenly opened, revealing a genuinely astonishing sight: the 45-metre-high temple with an ornate, Greek-style façade.
Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Petra is considered one of the world’s most
famous archaeological sites.
In
its heyday, Petra was a major crossroad between Arabia (for incense), China
(for silk) and India (for spices). While exploring Petra, one could easily be
transported to the time of caravans and could just as easily imagine the chaos
of trade and bargaining that undoubtedly took place in those years. Most
ingenious was their clever water system, which channelled rain- and floodwaters into cisterns and reservoirs. Being a desert area, none of this would’ve been
possible without these channels and diversion dams that controlled and
conserved the seasonal rains.
While
returning from our walk to the high place of sacrifice, a sudden downpour and
hailstorm made us seek shelter in a tomb. I thought taking refuge in an ancient
tomb was quite a cool thing to do. Unfortunately, the rain continued all night
and, with freezing weather setting in, we stayed an extra day.
27
February - Petra – At Tafilah – 91 km
The
route out of Petra climbed steeply from Wadi Musa and
continued uphill almost the entire day. Still following the barren, mountainous King’s Highway, we soon encountered the warning about stone-throwing children, and I was mentally transported back to Ethiopia. The wintery weather brought snow, and Ernest had to throw a few snowballs. On reaching the junction at At-Tafilah,
the King’s Highway continued north, and the At-Tafilah Highway turned down to
the Dead Sea in the Jordan Valley.
Following the discussion of our options, the Dead Sea, which we believed had a milder climate, won.
Already late, the tents were pitched at a viewpoint on the outskirts of At-Tafilah.
The spot was a remarkable place to overnight, blessed with a terrific
view of the surrounding barren mountains and the Dead Sea in the distance.
28 February
- At Tafilah – Dead Sea - 112 km
In
the morning, we raced downhill at breakneck speed, from 1,000 AMSL to the Dead
Sea at 400m below sea level, the lowest place on earth. Before pitching the
tents, we first had the obligatory swim, or instead, a float, in this unique
lake’s saline waters.
Being
under the impression that our chosen spot was well-hidden was clearly
incorrect. The many stray dogs soon discovered us. They barked continuously but
were also quite aggressive, to the point that we feared they could rip the
tents apart. However, chasing them only drew more attention to our illegal camp,
rather than frightening them.
29
February-7 March – Read Sea -Suwayma – Amman – 174 km
The
road climbed steeply out of the Dead Sea valley to Amman, located on a plateau
at 1,000 metres above sea level, a slow process on a bicycle. In the process, we
met Peter and Jill, who recognised the South African sticker on Ernest’s bags
and stopped to inquire about our trip. They promptly invited us to a braai,
and we spent the following evening at their home, enjoying a great meal and
plenty of red wine before being dropped off at our abode.
Two
days were spent searching for a new rim, but to no avail. There wasn’t much one could do but order a new one. Thanks to my sister Amanda, Leon, and
Jaco at Cycle Maintenance Centre in Cape Town, the parts were packed and sent
to Jordan.
Ordering
the spares made kicking back in a room until the parcel arrived easy. The best part
of any accommodation was that it usually had a bathroom. I considered this heaven.
The freezing weather had us biking and sleeping in the same outfit,
and you can thus understand my delight.
I
should’ve used the time to do something regarding my appearance, as I was
shrivelled up like an old prune. Instead, we did the tourist thing and visited
Madaba and Mt Nebo, where Moses reportedly saw the promised land and then died
at the age of 120. The world is clearly going backwards, as life expectancy in Jordan at the time of our visit was only 74. The place was a tad
disappointing, and there was nowhere to place your feet and say, “Beam me up, Scotty”.
8-9 March
– Amman
At
last, the package arrived. Receiving a parcel is always exciting, and it was
eagerly opened. Not only did it contain bike spares, but my thoughtful sister also included droëwors, cup-a-soup, pasta sauce, jelly babies, and a buff for
Ernest in SA colours. Thanks, Amanda!
Off
to the bike shop, and although their technology was limited, the shop was
accommodating and friendly. The following day, the bikes were as good as new.
10
March - Amman - Syrian border – 88 km
All
smiles, we continued our journey towards Syria. The bikes ran well, and the
weather was good, making pedalling to the Jordanian-Syrian border effortless. We
were slightly apprehensive, not knowing what to expect and whether obtaining a
visa at the border was even possible. We were thus ecstatic to learn the
process had changed and had become more effortless.
I
did essential shopping (face cream and mask) at the duty-free shop. Then keen to
use it, I found a room on the Syrian side of the border to relax until
exploring Syria in the morning. That also brought our rather short visit to Jordan to an end.
