Shenanigans on a Bike - By Leana Niemand
158 THAILAND (21.1)
1,791 Kilometres - 30 Days
24
November – 5 January 2022
158 THAILAND (21.1)
1,791 Kilometres - 30 Days
24
November – 5 January 2022
24 November - Pattaya – Rayong – 80 km
I
was cautiously excited to return to life on a bike and see how the world had changed over the past year and eight months. However, even though the pandemic was
far from over, I couldn’t wait any longer. So I saddled my old iron horse for a
ride around Thailand. If only for my sanity.
Loading
the bike and closing the condo took forever, but I eventually got underway. My
first stop was a short two kilometres further at Jomtien Beach to have coffee in
the company of Dawn and Dan. I don’t know if I would’ve survived the pandemic
without them. They kept me sane; if not for Dawn, I don’t know if I would’ve
kept up our running regime. Thanks, Dawn - run like the wind, my friend!
It
felt good cycling out of Pattaya. Our daily exercise kept me ticking over, allowing me to make a comfortable 80-kilometre ride to Rayong. The day was a pleasant one. The sun was out, the sky was blue, and the rice paddies were green. I believe I sported an
ear-to-ear grin pedalling along minor paths past a never-ending string of
ornate temples, brightly adorned Bodhi trees, steaming mobile food carts and
spirit houses. It was good to be in the saddle once more.
25
November - Rayong - Roadside accommodation - 91 km
Coffee
was from the ever-present 7-Eleven, and the time was therefore before 9 a.m. when I
cycled out of Rayong. Barely 10 kilometres down the drag, I’d my first
puncture. The new tube was soon in, but seeing I only had one spare, I assumed
it was best to stop at a bicycle/motorbike repair shop and let them do the fixing.
The
coast beyond Rayong is a true paradise, and I ambled on to pretty Ban Phe. Ban
Phe is the jumping-off point to nearby islands and thus has a lively tourist
trade. As a result, finding a bike shop was pretty easy, and in no time, the tube was fixed, and I could be on my way. Tiny Ban Phe also has a large fishing
fleet, primarily for producing fish sauce.
Around
lunchtime, I’d a bite to eat and sat watching the ocean. No sooner had I left than my saddle, nuts and screws all landed on the road. Gosh, I could’ve ruined part of my anatomy, but I may still have a use for it later. I picked up the pieces and
popped in at a nearby guesthouse to enquire about a ride to a bike shop. The
kind lady phoned and then suggested she take me and the saddle to the motorbike
repairman, as he could fix it. So, off we went and returned sporting a fixed
saddle. Thank goodness for motorbike repair workshops.
It
was late by the time I spotted roadside bungalows and considered it a good
enough place to overnight. The lady was super friendly, and the tiny adjacent
eatery conjured up a plate of fried rice even though they were officially
closed for the day—how nice of them and just the thing needed in the wake of my
eventful day.
26
November – Roadside cottage – Chao Lao – 17 km
Seeing
I was well fed and rested, I departed early-ish. Gosh, there’s nothing better
than an open road without a destination in mind. Fifteen kilometres later, I
arrived at Chao Lao, a lovely small seaside resort. Guesthouses lined the main
street, and I soon spotted one advertising bungalows at 350THB. I wrestled the
bike, but it had a will of its own and turned in. Soon, I was comfortably
ensconced in a tiny wooden cabin.
My
early arrival gave me time to sort out my inability to access MS Word. Even though
I only use the laptop when travelling, everything has stayed the same since I
last used it. Eventually, I sorted it, did laundry, and thus 4 o’clock by the
time all was done.
27
November - Chao Lao – Trat - 90 km
I
generally prefer to cycle 20 kilometres or so before having a bite to eat, and on
this day I did precisely that.
Domestic
tourists usually frequent the southeast coast of Thailand, but on the weekend, the beaches were largely deserted. The ocean was usually crystal
clear, but I never saw any dive boats. Likewise, the popular viewpoints were
scarily quiet apart from a young girl selling homemade snacks. The area is one
of the few places where one can still find bungalows on the water’s edge—total
bliss.
I’m
always surprised to see horseshoe crabs for sale. They are odd-looking, but interestingly,
the earliest horseshoe crab fossils date to roughly 450 million years! Another fascinating fact is that horseshoe crabs use hemocyanin to carry oxygen in their blood. Because copper is present in hemocyanin, their blood is blue.
Fascinating, hey?
The
ride was predominantly into a slight breeze, but not strong enough to make me
do a U-turn and head back the way I came. The entire route was blessed with a
cycle lane, making it a pretty easy 90-kilometre ride to Trat. Once in town,
Baan Jaidee guesthouse is the best place to overnight, as they still offer comfortable, sparkling-clean rooms at 250 THB. November/December is a good
time to cycle as the weather isn’t as hot and humid.
28
November – Trat – Klaeng – 127 km
I
didn’t do my planned loop ride to Pattaya as I woke to a breezy north-easterly.
The north-easterly wind brings cooler, less humid conditions and blows between November and March; thus, it's better to head south.
Once
at the turn-off, I wisely thought better of it and proceeded in a westerly
direction. The plan was to return to Pattaya to pick up the tent I ordered and complete my 90-day registration before continuing my ride.
A
great deal of the day was spent exploring paths that had not been taken before. Cycling
through tiny, half-forgotten villages where a well still draws the eye is such a pleasure.
I
won’t say I’d the wind at my back, but still, better than facing it head-on. I
don’t know if it was due to my chocolate cake breakfast, but I was full of
beans and made my way to Klaeng. Towards the end of the day, I felt like a
hamster on a treadmill and pulled into cute roadside cottages sporting beer and
crisps! It was a no-brainer.
29
November – Klaeng – Pattaya – 123 km
Surprisingly,
a light breakfast was included. Even though the ladies knew I was travelling
solo, I still received two breakfasts. Of course, I ate both, hahaha!
I
didn’t feel much like cycling to Pattaya, as I’ve cycled that stretch many
times. Still, there wasn’t any other option, and I stepped on the pedals.
30
November – 5 December – Jomtien
I
stayed longer than anticipated, as there were always more things to do.
6
December - Pattaya – Bangsaen Beach, Chon Buri - 60 km
At
last, I closed the condo and cycled out of Sodom and Gomorrah. It’s never a
scenic ride north, but I did it anyhow. My new saddle was a real pain in the
ass, and I made it a short ride to Bangsaen.
The
most interesting was the 300THB room, one block from the beach, where “fully
tiled” took on a new meaning. Before settling in, I gave the room a generous
Dettol disinfectant spray. Hahaha! Sunset was a perfect time to stroll along
the promenade and grab a bite to eat.
7
December - Bangsaen Beach – Samut Prakan – 110 km
The
Gulf of Thailand, also known as the Gulf of Siam, is relatively shallow: its
mean depth is 58 metres, and the maximum depth is only 85 metres. This slows water exchange, and the strong riverine inflow reduces salinity but
enriches the sediment. As a result, Thailand’s total marine catch accounts for 41 per cent of the catch in the Gulf of Thailand. Here is the sad part: In February 2017,
a ten-kilometre-long patch of plastic refuse floated off Chumphon. I don’t know
what happened to it, but Thailand’s said to be among the world’s worst plastic
polluters. Thailand’s Pollution Control Department (PCD) estimates that plastic waste in the country is increasing at an annual rate of 12 per cent, or around 2 million tonnes!
Trying
to avoid the hectic traffic, I stuck as close to the Gulf as possible. Still, I
discovered that nearly all routes were flooded and impassable at times.
Flooding is due to a variety of factors. First, the geography of Bangkok and
its surrounding areas makes it prone to flooding. Situated on natural flood
plains near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River delta. Therefore, the area
around the Gulf is inclined to regular flooding during the wet season,
especially during high tide.
Eventually,
I came upon a rural path along one of the canals, which made riding through a
rural part of Thailand.
8
December – Samut Sakon – Samut Songkhram – 40 km
Following
the railway line, the ride to Samut Songkhram was pleasant. The area
is dotted by hamlets consisting of only a few houses, a mere metre or so from
the tracks. But, gosh, they couldn’t get any closer if they wished!
The
short distance made for an early arrival in Samut Songkhram. It must’ve been
high tide as the river flooded its banks, and the entire town was underwater.
What a mess. I made my way to the hostel, but sadly, it was closed.
The famous train market was quiet, and only a few stalls remained. I never saw
any trains and didn’t know if they were still running—the pandemic sure took
the spark out of travelling. Finally, however, a room at 300 THB lured me in, and I felt like I spent the rest of the day eating.
December
is the cool season in Thailand and the best time to enjoy Pla Thu. Pla Thu, or
short-bodied mackerel, is widely available in the Gulf of Thailand. I believe
Pla Thu from Mae Klong or Samut Songkhram is the best. The area holds an annual
festival, but I wonder if it will be held this year due to the virus.
9
December – Samut Songkhram – Hua Hin – 118 km
Eager
to get underway before the tide came in, departing Samut Songkhram was a rushed
affair. Ten kilometres later, I was on the scenic route pedalling south along
the Gulf of Thailand. The area is highly likely to be one of my favourite rides. The
road runs close to the coast; I’d a slight breeze from behind, the sun was out,
and so were a gazillion birds. The area is primarily known for salt production,
and I pedalled past vast salt fields where the paddies were filled with water.
These pans attract millions of birds from as far afield as Alaska and Siberia.
I spent much of the day looking for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper. No wonder
I took the entire day to cycle the relatively short distance to Hua Hin.
Even
though Hua Hin looked somewhat sad in the absence of the masses, I stayed an
extra day, mainly because the digs were inexpensive at 300THB. At least the room was
on the ground floor and had a door to a walled yard—my absolute favourite type
of accommodation. This allowed me to do laundry and sort out a few things
online. Actually, “did laundry” is misleading, as all I did was rinse my cycling
clothes. In the process, I devoured an entire bag of liquorice and a bag of
popcorn. Once I start on liquorice……
My
saunter around town revealed only previously bustling lanes, now eerily quiet. Most
premises were to let, and even the ladies at the massage shops looked defeated
as they slumped outside their shops, appearing captivated by their phones
without the familiar, “You want massaaaage?”
11
December – Hua Inn – Prachuap Khiri Khan- 113 km
Aided
by a stiff breeze, I pedalled out of touristy Hua Inn. I know I’m harping on
regarding the pleasures of cycling, but there’s nothing better than being on
“the road to nowhere”. Without a destination in mind, a stiff breeze at my
back, sublime vistas and a pleasant 30-odd degrees, I couldn’t help but giggle
at my fortune.
So
good was it that I scarcely stopped and thus rolled into Prachuap reasonably early.
I cycled straight to Maggie’s Homestay, my old favourite. Maggie’s consists of 200 THB rooms, a pleasant outdoor social area, a kitchen, and a large yard with a washing machine and water filtration system. It’s the kind of place which
attracts long-term travellers, cyclists and backpackers. As a result, it wasn’t
surprising to meet two other guests, one who had been at Maggie’s for more than
a year, waiting out the pandemic. I couldn’t wait to get the kettle boiling for
a cup of coffee, which I drank, chatting to the others. Afterwards, and
following a shower, I parked myself on one of the outdoor sofas, beer in hand.
12/13
December – Prachuap Kiri Khan
Two
days were spent at Maggie’s as it’s an easy place to linger, run, do laundry,
eat and socialise. Nick, the British chap, who has been at Maggie’s since the
pandemic, is also a cyclist en route to Malaysia. He was quiet but easy to chat
with, and the days flew by.
14
December - Prachuap – Ban Krut – 71 km
Powered
by the wind, I flew south through coconut palm plantations and past snow-white
beaches.
Today
was highly likely the first time someone with questionable intentions (in
Thailand) harassed me. Eventually, he sped off as he thought I was about to
attack him, hahaha! However, I rolled into Ban Krut early due to a favourable
wind. I’d heard from Derick (who’d cycled this route previously) regarding a
250THB room. As I’ve never overnighted in Ban Krut previously, I pulled in.
15-16
December – Ban Krut – Chumphon - 123 km
Not
only is December a perfect time for cycle touring in Thailand weather-wise, but
this part of the country is particularly picturesque. Add easy cycling, and
it’s cycle touring at its very best. So pleasant was it, I hardly stopped. What
made it even better was finding a 350THB room in Chumphon where I could wheel
the bike right in.
My
phone was driving me crazy as it appeared near the end of its life. Frustrated,
I bought a new one. It took the best part of the following day to set it up and
pop into the bank to reinstall the bank app. Then, seeing my laptop was falling
apart, I considered it an excellent time to take it in to be repaired. Luckily,
the problem was only a missing screw. The chap wanted no money, and I bought
two ice cream cones from the next-door shop and was amazed by the genuine surprise and gratitude. Gosh, away from sleazy Pattaya, the Thai people are
incredibly kind and helpful.
17
December – Chumphon – Paknam Lang Suan – 83 km
I
was in no particular hurry and had a leisurely start. The south of Chonburi is
more lush, green and hilly than further north. The change made for a picturesque, varied ride through dense coconut-palm plantations and tiny hamlets, where
chickens pecked in the road. The road hugged the coast; other times, it veered
inland over the hills. I cycled this route nearly two years ago, shortly before
the pandemic, and the memories came flooding back. Still, I was relieved I
didn’t encounter a similar storm.
Reaching
Paknam Lang Suan was relatively early, but I couldn’t cycle past Fisherman
Bungalow without stopping to stay the night. These basic wooden huts on stilts are right
on the water’s edge, and at 250THB, I thought it a massive bargain.
18
December – Paknam Lang Suan – Surat Tani – 126 km
It
turned out to be a noisy night so close to the ocean, and I emerged early from my
humble abode. Sadly, the overcast conditions prevented any sunrise shots.
Still, I drank my coffee while watching kids row out to cast their nets in not
much more than a plastic bucket.
Cycling
south, I believed myself immensely lucky and wondered why the whole world
wasn’t out riding their bikes. The reason, I guess, was made clear as the day
progressed. Not long after leaving, a storm moved in, but mercifully, it lasted
no more than five minutes. Not a great distance later, I had a flat tyre, and
10 kilometres from Surat Tani, the heavens opened once more, and rain came
gushing down. It rained so hard I could barely see where I was going.
Nevertheless, I pulled my cap low and kept going, wondering if I was on the
right road.
Eventually,
I pedalled into Surat Tani just as its 130 000 population was on their way
home. Sopping wet and with water dripping, I pulled into My Place @ Surat,
which offered budget rooms. Not wanting to cart my panniers to the 4th floor, I
settled for a 360THB room on the 3rd floor. I needed food in a hurry and scurried
to the nearby night market to grab a bite to eat even before showering.
19
December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 109 km
I
stayed on the main road, as I didn’t see any rural roads. As a result, I didn’t
even take one picture. Although easy riding, the main roads are monotonous.
Once
in Tha Sala, I assumed it was best to call it a day and look for a secondary road
in the morning. I further decided to try the new weekly ferry between Songkhla
and Sattahip, which offers special fares until the end of the year. I
understood a ferry left Songkhla every Thursday, which gave me two days to
cycle the 220/250 kilometres to Songkhla, depending on my route.
20
December – Tha Sala – Sam Bo – 143 km
I’d
word the Sattahip ferry departed on Wednesday, 22 December, rather than Thursday as
anticipated. Thank goodness a friend alerted me, and I said to myself, “Self,
you better step on it as you’ve 220 kilometres to go before 1 o’clock
tomorrow!” Luckily, cycling was effortless, even though it was raining the entire way.
It
rained so hard I could barely see where I was going at times, but I had a boat to
catch. Unfortunately, the visibility was so poor that we could scarcely see the top
of the wind turbines. Finally, a mere 60 kilometres remained, and I thought I’d
done enough to make the ferry—time for crisps and beer.
By
evening, I booked and paid via Line, hoping it would work out.
22
December – Sam Bo – Songkla – 67 km
Before
seven, I pointed my mobile home toward Songkla. Again, riding was
effortless, and I slinked into Songkhla with more time than needed. Luckily, the
town offered a fair amount to see, and I cycled through the old city featuring
old Chinese shophouses before returning to the port.
Being
a new ferry, it seemed no one quite knew what to do or where to go. Still, the
staff was super friendly. Exactly why one had to board at 14h00, while we sailed well past 16h00, remained a mystery. More people were on board than expected, but one hardly noticed, since the boat was designed to hold 950 people and we were far from that number. Communication could’ve been better concerning
what’s available on board. But then it’s highly likely the info was posted in
Thai. This is, after all, Thailand. Food was only served between 17h00 and 19h00,
but snacks were available throughout the trip. Surprisingly, no alcohol was
sold, and the trip was thus relatively subdued. There was little to do after sunset, as there was no Wi-Fi on board.
23
December - Songkla – Pattaya – 40 km
I
slept well, having an entire row of seats to myself. The boat anchored in
Sattahip around 1 p.m. Getting the bike from its securely strapped location
took a while.
It
didn’t take long to cycle the 40 kilometres to Jomtien, where I first stopped
for a few beers at Dawn and Dan’s place before cycling home.
24
December – 5 January 2022
Many
social events kept me busy, including Christmas Day. Although I’m not religious, I spent the day with good friends. We spent the day on the beach
under umbrellas with Dan, Dawn, Sean, Mike, Graham and Lisa, drinking a few
beers.
The
days flew by. I ordered new reading glasses and was told they would only arrive
on 5 January. I guessed it wasn’t the end of the world as I had a few things to
sort out.
The
wait also allowed me to get back into jogging, something I’d neglected while travelling.
I further needed to order a new sleeping mat. Unfortunately, I left the order
too late and discovered the shop was closed until 6 January.
It was thus 8 February
before I said Adios to the lovely people I had befriended during Covid and was finally
Africa-bound. Africa was indeed a last resort, as, after nearly two years,
Thailand still hadn’t opened its land borders.
I was cautiously
excited to return to my home soil and see what Africa had in store. However, travelling
wasn’t as easy as before, and I wasn’t sure if I would even take off.
