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73 THAILAND (5)
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25 May - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand - 108 kilometres
The
Cambodian immigration office was only 10 kilometres away across the Meteuk
River, and the Thailand border control was a short ride from there. As the rain
continued throughout the day, it seemed like the dry season was coming to an
end. Despite the rain, I cycled 100 kilometres to Trat, a town with a few basic
guesthouses. This also marked the end of my journey through Cambodia and
brought me to Thailand for the fifth time.
26
May - Trat – Klaeng - 136 kilometres
On
emerging from my windowless room, I found the weather still rainy, rain that
continued throughout the day. Thankfully, the temperature had subsided, making
pushing on to Klaeng easy.
I
passed a few interesting-looking places, but with rain bucketing down, I
thought it best to keep going. Every day has its own story, and on this day, I
wished toilets were available at regular intervals; unfortunately, that sadly
wasn’t the case. Without going into too much detail I’ll only mention that I
was happy to reach Klaeng and find accommodation at the intersection. Time to
rinse those cycling pants! LOL. If ever you were inclined to envy my life, this
was certainly not a day to envy.
27
May - Klaeng – Chon Buri - 108 kilometres
Thank
goodness the rain abated, and the weather returned to its typically hot and
humid conditions. Luckily, the ride from Klaeng to Chon Buri was short. A truck
overturned just seconds ahead of me, and it made me realise how quickly
accidents can happen. Miraculously, the driver emerged unharmed. Not much later
another accident occurred between a scooter and a car. These accidents reminded
me of a cycle tourist killed in Turkey not too long before and I was, once
again, acutely aware of how vulnerable cyclists are on the road.
While
travelling, I often mistakenly assume all countries adhere to international traffic
rules. However, I now know that each country interprets those rules
differently. For example, the fact that the road had a good shoulder didn’t
make it a bicycle lane and I did my best to stick as close to the edge of the
road as possible. Still, I considered staying safe a team effort.
28 -
29 May - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan - 85 kilometres
Fortunately,
I soon had the opportunity to turn off the highway and head along a minor
coastal road. I intended to find accommodation on the outskirts of Bangkok so
that I could take a bus or taxi into the city the following day. I desperately
needed a new front pannier, as duct tape held the old one together, and I kept
losing things.
At
the time, Thailand only allowed a two-week stay at land borders, making it
almost impossible to reach the Thailand-Malaysia border in time. Due to this
time constraint, I decided to take a taxi into Bangkok, buy the panniers and
get back as soon as possible. However, finding a budget room on the outskirts
of Bangkok turned out more difficult than anticipated. Although there were many
hotels, most were expensive. Eventually, I had to settle for a love motel,
which came equipped with a convenient chair. LOL. In hindsight, it might have
been better to bike into Bangkok, buy the panniers, and ride out. But then,
hindsight is an exact science.
29
May - Samut Prakan - Oena Resort, Khet Bang Khun Thian - 40 kilometres
Early
the following morning, a taxi ride took me into the city, where I bought the
panniers (only sold in pairs). I also bought a new lens cap because I lost mine
during the Cambodian boat trip (long story). It was thus after midday before
returning to the motel.
Rounding
the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand, there’s no avoiding the sprawling
city traffic. I soon found myself amidst the worst traffic imaginable.
Frustrated, I called it a day and thought it better to continue in the morning.
30
May - Oena Resort – Samut Songkhram - 85 kilometres
I
didn’t plan to go to Sumat Songkran but turned in anyhow and immediately set
out to the well-known Railway Market.
The
Maeklong Market is a unique place. At first glance, the market looked like an
ordinary market, sheltered by low-hanging awnings or umbrellas. However, on
closer inspection, one noticed you’re walking on train rails. Every time a
train came, stallholders hurriedly packed up and made space for the train to
pass. Unfortunately, no trains came as I understood repair work was being done
on the line.
Being
a weekend, I visited the weekend floating market and was pleasantly surprised.
The market is immensely popular with people from the city, and I never saw a
single Westerner. The food was excellent and served directly from the boats.
At a
mere 50 bhat, one could take a canal tour, including visiting a few of the
temples along the river. Although everything was in Thai, fellow visitors
eagerly translated and explained the importance of the various temples. By the
time we returned, it was past 6 p.m. and the market was a hive of activity.
31
May - Samut Songkram – Cha-Am - 95 kilometres
Although
I had cycled between Bangkok and Malaysia twice before, it was still enjoyable
to ride along this picturesque coastal route. The road was pan-flat and passed
by several salt farms and fishing villages. Additionally, there was a
designated bike lane along the way. Upon arriving at Cha-Am, the weather took a
turn for the worse, providing a perfect opportunity to search for a room.
1
June - Cha-Am
Cha-Am
was so lovely that I decided to stay an extra day, allowing me to take a long
stroll and a short jog. I also did the usual housekeeping, and with so much
free time, I visited the hairdresser where I had a mani- and pedicure at the
same time.
2-3
June - Cha-Am – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 125 kilometres
From
Cha-Am a flat and easy bike ride passed by roadside stalls that sold fruits and
fishy snacks. However, shortly before Prachuap, the weather turned bad, and
despite going flat out, I ended up getting soaked. In Prachuap, finding a place
to stay was easy as the town had ample accommodation options available.
4
June - Prachuap Kiri Khan – Bang Saphan (Nipa beach bungalows) - 93 kilometres
As I
travelled from Prachuap to Bang Saphan, I took my time to savour the beauty of
this scenic route.
After
months of solo travelling, I was thrilled to finally bump into another cyclist.
He was an Italian man on his way to Italy from Cambodia, although I couldn't
help but wonder if he was going the wrong way. The route was brimming with
picturesque views, and I was in awe of the long stretches of white sandy
beaches with no one in sight. The resorts were tucked away behind a veil of bougainvillaea
and fragrant frangipani flowers, and I spotted a few hammocks strung between
tall palm trees.
As I
approached Nipa Beach Bungalows, located right across from the beach, I knew it
was time to call it a day.
5-6
June - Bang Saphan – Sea Beach Bungalows - 99 kilometres
Once
again, the ride was stunning but hillier than the previous days. The goal was
to reach Chumphon as I had run out of visa time and needed to leave the country
as soon as possible.
Shortly
before Chumphon, I stumbled upon Wua Laen, a coastal village boasting a
beautiful beach where beachside bungalows caught my eye. On stopping to
enquire, another cyclist, arriving from the south, was also searching for
accommodation. Peter Yoong from Malaysia was a lovely, friendly guy and we both
rented rooms at Sea Beach Bungalows. While chatting on the little veranda, the
Italian chap who I met earlier that day also pulled in. At first, he didn’t
recognise me with my clothes on (LOL).
That
evening, the three of us grabbed a bite to eat, and we spent a pleasant evening
in the company of other cyclists. Peter was a Warmshowers host and kindly
invited me to stay at his place once I reached Malaysia. This also marked the
beginning of a friendship that would last for many years.
The
next morning the weather was lovely, and I decided to stay an extra day even
though I knew it would be impossible to reach the border on time if I did so.
However, I felt it was worth staying, so I took a leisurely walk and went for a
swim before breakfast.
7-8
June - Hat Yai, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia - 105 kilometres
I
had no option but to take a bus to the border. I didn’t feel guilty doing so as
I had cycled that stretch on a previous occasion.
A
30-kilometre ride took me to the bus terminal in Chumphon where busses ran to
Hat Yai. From Hat Yai, an easy 55-kilometre bike ride led to the border, where
navigating immigration was effortless. I wish all border crossings could be
this smooth. Not only was entry uncomplicated, but one automatically was given
a 90-day stay and I loved Malaysia for that. Another 60 kilometres down the
drag, I rolled into Alor Setar, the gateway to Langkawi. Not that I planned on
going to Langkawi - I only wanted overnight accommodation.
No
country is perfect, but some are closer to paradise than others. The food in
Malaysia included a good dose of Malay, Chinese, and Indian, and I was in my
element, therefore placing Malaysia close to the top of the paradise list. I
unknowingly found a room right next to the night market and was spoilt for
choice! I scoffed more than one Roti Canai, as they were a mere RM1 each, and
retired with a full belly.
