A Visit to Egypt - A Sisterly Adventure
VOICEOVER
Chapter 1 - Whispers of Stone and Sand
Cairo, Egypt
And so, with Istanbul behind me and Cairo
ahead, I whispered a thank you to the road. To the strangers who became
companions. To the landscapes that became memories. To the wind, even when it
pushed back.
We landed in Cairo around 5.30 – 6:00.
By the time I collected my bicycle and bag and found a taxi to take me into the
city, it was already light. And just like that, I was back in Africa and along
the mighty Nile.
Cairo didn’t welcome me so much as it
engulfed me—an unrelenting tide of horns, heat, and hustle. Giza, in
particular, felt like a fever dream: tuk-tuks zigzagging through clouds of
dust, camels lurching past neon-lit souvenir stalls, and touts with eyes like
hawks and tongues like honey. Everyone had something to sell, and every
transaction felt like a performance. I wasn’t just a tourist—I was a mark, a
character in a play I hadn’t auditioned for.
Even the simplest tasks—finding a
hotel, buying a bottle of water—became quests worthy of myth. I was exhausted,
amused, and slightly exasperated. But beneath the chaos, something ancient
pulsed. I could feel it in the stones, in the sand, in the way the light hit
the horizon at dusk. Egypt wasn’t going to make this easy. But it was going to
make it unforgettable.
The Sphinx and the Pyramid
of Khufu
Amanda arrived the following day, and
the Great Sphinx of Giza was our first stop. It stands as a mesmerising
testament to ancient Egyptian ingenuity, captivating all who lay eyes upon it.
Carved from the limestone bedrock of the Giza Plateau around 2500 BCE, likely
during the reign of Pharaoh Khafre, this iconic monument is a riddle in
stone—part lion, part man, all mystery and adorned with a regal headdress that
hints at its connection to royalty.
Most historians agree that the Sphinx
was crafted between 2558 and 2532 BCE. Its impressive dimensions—73 meters
long, 20 meters high, and 6 meters wide—make it a true marvel of the ancient
world, embodying the dual qualities of strength and wisdom. Many believe the
face represents Pharaoh Khafre himself, watching over his nearby monumental
pyramid. Some even speculate that the Sphinx may predate the Fourth Dynasty
altogether, although these claims often lack solid archaeological backing. The
absence of the Sphinx's nose adds an air of intrigue, ripe for speculation.
Contrary to the popular myth that
Napoleon's troops destroyed it, historical records from the 15th century
already depict it missing. Restoration efforts have been ongoing since the time
of Thutmose (1400–1390 BCE), who famously erected the Dream Stele between the
Sphinx’s paws, claiming divine promise of kingship if he could clear it of the
sand that had buried it. Today, it faces persistent threats of erosion and
pollution that continue to challenge its stability.
We ambled along to the Great Pyramid
of Khufu, built around 2600 BCE It is the oldest and largest of the Giza
pyramids and the only surviving Wonder of the Ancient World. It served as the
tomb of Pharaoh Khufu, who reigned during a period marked by a peak in pyramid
construction and centralised power.
Built over approximately 20–26 years,
the pyramid originally stood 146.6 meters tall, making it the tallest
human-made structure for nearly 4,000 years. It consists of an estimated 2.3
million limestone and granite blocks, some weighing up to 15 tons, with a total
mass of about 6 million tonnes. The outer casing was made of white Tura
limestone, polished to a dazzling finish. A golden capstone may have once
crowned the top. Its base spans 230.3 meters on each side, and the precision of
its alignment—within centimetres—is astonishing, even by modern standards. No
wonder it remains the only intact Wonder of the Ancient World. Standing before
this monument felt like touching the heartbeat of ancient civilisation.
Cairo – The Grand Egyptian Museum
The Grand Egyptian Museum wasn’t officially
open, but we ventured there to see what secrets it held. It was a most
fascinating experience, as it has over 100,000 artefacts. Unfortunately, the Tutankhamun
collection wasn’t on display while the final touches were being put in place
before the opening in two weeks. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to witness
these magnificent items during a previous visit. Still, we spent most of the day
at the Museum.
Memphis and the Step Pyramid
As we dove into the wonders of Egypt,
I was reminded that discussing this incredible land without mentioning Memphis
is akin to discussing Italy without mentioning Rome. Memphis, a remarkable
UNESCO World Heritage site, was the cradle of ancient Egyptian civilisation,
established by the visionary King Meni (or Menes), who unified both Upper and
Lower Egypt. Once known as Inbu-hedj—translated as the "White
Walls"—the city was not just a capital; it was the very heartbeat of
ancient culture and power.
As the centuries passed, the mighty
Nile shifted its course, forcing the city’s centre to migrate northward and
paving the way for Fustat, Egypt's new Islamic capital, which eventually sowed
the seeds of today's bustling Cairo. Just as modern-day Cairo thrived, Memphis
was a vibrant metropolis filled with grand temples, rich settlements, and
imposing palaces. Many of these awe-inspiring remnants date back to the reign
of King Ramesses II—a master builder whose legacy continues to captivate the
imagination today.
Eager to explore, Amanda and I set off
for Memphis. Our first destination? The astonishing Step Pyramid of Djoser
located just a stone's throw away in Saqqara. This architectural marvel marks a
pivotal moment in history—it’s the first pyramid ever constructed in Egypt, a
monumental leap into architectural innovation. But it wasn’t just a tomb; it
was a grand stage for Djoser’s anticipated journey into the afterlife, framed
within a sprawling mortuary complex.
As we approached the Step Pyramid, I
was struck by the towering wall surrounding Djoser’s Complex. Rising
impressively to 10.5 meters, its façade is adorned with intricate recessed
panels spanning a massive 544 meters by 277 meters. This was more than a burial
site; it was envisioned as an eternal home, a lasting testament to the belief
in life beyond death.
One of the highlights of our
exploration was at the Mastaba of Princess Idut, where we witnessed a
mesmerising scene depicted in ancient art—an evocative moment of nature, with a
hippopotamus giving birth while a crocodile lurks nearby. It’s a striking reminder
of the delicate balance of life in the Nile’s ecosystem and a glimpse into the
artistic expressions of a civilisation that flourished thousands of years ago.
Still in Dahshur, we ventured to one
of Egypt’s most captivating architectural wonders: the Bent Pyramid. Built by
the innovative Pharaoh Sneferu around 2600 BCE, this structure represents a
bold leap in pyramid design. It was Sneferu's second pyramid, a daring
experiment following the unfortunate collapse of the Meidum Pyramid and
preceding the triumph of the nearby Red Pyramid.
What sets the Bent Pyramid apart is
its fascinating silhouette. Starting with a steep 54-degree incline, it
suddenly transitions to a gentler 43-degree angle at about 47 meters, creating
its intriguing “bent” appearance. This unique design decision likely arose from
the lessons learned during the construction of earlier pyramids—perhaps a
response to the structural challenges they presented.
Ultimately, the Bent Pyramid marks a
crucial turning point in the evolution of pyramid design, bridging the gap
between the stepped and the smooth-sided structures.
Just as I thought I had witnessed it all, the
Serapeum of Saqqara appeared, which captivates the imagination as one of
Egypt’s most mysterious and breathtaking ancient sites. Imagine a sprawling
underground burial complex dedicated to the revered Apis bulls, believed to be
earthly embodiments of the god Ptah. Upon their death, these magnificent
creatures were thought to transcend into the divine realm of Osiris-Apis.
Established around 1400 BCE and expanded
extensively during the reign of Ramses II, the Serapeum was a sacred site in
continuous use until the Ptolemaic period, which wrapped up around 30 BCE. But
this marvel of engineering lay hidden from the world until its rediscovery in
1850.
As you step into the Serapeum, you'll find yourself
enveloped in a hauntingly beautiful labyrinth of massive underground galleries
and chambers. Each Apis bull was laid to rest in colossal granite sarcophagi,
some weighing an astonishing 70 tons! The intricate technique used to lower
these monolithic tombs into their resting places—filling the chambers with sand
and then removing it—showcases the remarkable ingenuity of ancient Egyptian
craftsmanship.
The burial rituals themselves were nothing short of
elaborate, featuring intricate mummification processes, offerings, and
commemorative stelae that tell the stories of these sacred creatures. As I wandered
through the vaults of the Serapeum, where dimly lit tunnels lined with gigantic
sarcophagi create a surreal experience, I was transported you back in time to
an era of profound reverence and mystery. Exploring this extraordinary site felt
like stepping into the pages of history, where the echoes of ancient rituals
still whisper through the corridors of time.
Old Cairo and the Nile
The next day, my sister and I slipped
into the quiet reverence of Old Cairo, where narrow alleys whispered stories
from centuries past. Roman fortresses, Coptic churches, ancient synagogues—all
layered like sediment in a riverbed of faith. We wandered through its narrow,
cobbled alleyways, captivated by the towering stone walls that have witnessed
centuries of history. Each turn revealed ancient churches, monasteries, and
synagogues, all whispering stories from eras long past. Did you know that
traces of a settlement dating back to the 6th century BC have been uncovered
right here? It’s incredible! As we meandered through the streets, I learned
that in the 2nd century, the Romans built a mighty fortress on this very site.
This stronghold became a beacon of early Christianity, fostering a flourishing
faith that led to the construction of numerous churches and monasteries from
the 3rd to the 7th centuries. One of the most touching legends surrounding
Coptic Cairo is that right here, it’s said, the Holy Family once found refuge.
The air felt thick with devotion, history, and resilience.
The area is also home to the country’s
oldest synagogue, a sanctuary that dates back to at least the 8th century,
predating the establishment of other religious structures in the 11th century.
It’s a poignant reminder of the rich tapestry of faith that has existed here. Even
after the Islamic conquest of Egypt in 641 AD, the resilient Coptic community
continued to flourish and was permitted to build churches within the old
fortress walls.
Today, Coptic Cairo stands as a
vibrant heritage site—a living testament to the rich history and enduring
spirit of Egypt's indigenous Christian community.
Right in the heart of Cairo, we found
the vibrant Khan El-Khalili market, a treasure trove of history and culture,
believed to have been established between 1382 and 1389 on sacred ground. Known
initially as Souq al-Juma, or Friday Market, it served as a gathering place for
traders and locals alike. Over the centuries, this bazaar evolved from a simple
caravanserai into a sprawling marketplace that pulses with life, drawing
merchants from every corner of the Islamic world.
As we wander through its winding
alleys, we discover a dazzling array of traditional crafts. The market is a
sensory delight, filled with the glimmer of exquisite jewellery, the warm glow
of intricate brassware, the rich hues of vibrant fabrics, and the aroma of
exotic spices. Each stall tells a story of artistry and heritage, making it a
true melting pot of creativity and commerce.
Today, Khan El-Khalili is more than
just a marketplace—it's a living museum that embodies the social and artistic
spirit of Cairo. Among its many gems is El-Fishawi Café, established in 1797,
where locals and visitors alike gather over steaming cups of mint tea. This café
was a favourite haunt of literary giants, including Nobel Prize winner Naguib
Mahfouz, whose beloved novel Midaq Alley beautifully captures the essence of
this iconic area.
By evening, we booked a dinner on the
Nile and were entertained by the "twirling men" of Egypt, known as
the Tanoura dance, a traditional folk dance based on Sufi whirling. Performed
by men wearing brightly coloured, multi-layered skirts. I believe the dance
symbolises the connection between the land and sky, and man and God. The
continuous spinning can be hypnotic, and I understand each colour on the skirt
has a different meaning.
Chapter 2 - Southbound Through the
Sahara
Onto Luxor
Finally, we bid farewell to Cairo—an
exciting moment, as there was so much more to explore in this captivating
country. By 9 a.m., we eagerly left our hotel and made our way to the bus
station for our 10-hour journey to Luxor, a route that would take us straight
through the vast expanse of the Sahara Desert.
The desert stretched endlessly, a sea
of silence and sand. At a roadside stop, we ate lunch surrounded by nothing but
dunes and sky. It was stark, surreal, and oddly serene.
Temples of Luxor and
Karnak
In Luxor, we woke to the sight of the
Luxor Temple, which rose before us like a dream in stone. Built around 1400
BCE, it wasn’t just a place of worship—it was a stage for kingship, a place
where pharaohs were reborn. Over time, it evolved into a Roman fortress, a
Christian church, and, ultimately, a mosque that still stands today. History
here doesn’t erase its layers.
We followed the Avenue of Sphinxes to
Karnak, where colossal columns reached skyward like petrified trees. The scale
was staggering. I felt small, and yet somehow part of something vast and
eternal.
Valley of the Kings
Egypt tests your patience. Our Uber
driver tried to charge us £900 for a £130 ride. We ditched him, took the ferry,
and found a taxi for a tenth of the price. Victory.
After a bit of a circus to get there,
we finally arrived at the Valley of the Kings, a site that feels like stepping
into a living history book. This extraordinary necropolis served as the final
resting place for the pharaohs of the New Kingdom from 1550 to 1070 BCE, and it
exudes an aura of mystery and reverence. Here, powerful rulers such as
Tutankhamun, Ramses II, Seti I, and Thutmose III were laid to rest, their tombs
intricately carved deep into the limestone cliffs, hidden from view to thwart potential
looters.
We skipped Tutankhamun’s tomb due to budget
constraints and déjà vu—but the others were no less magical. Here, the dead
were guided through the afterlife by sacred texts and celestial maps. It felt
like walking through a dream of death and rebirth.
Flight Over Pharaohs
We rose with the first light of dawn,
filled with excitement for our hot air balloon adventure. We set off on a short
ferry ride across the Nile, gliding toward the West Bank where minivans whisked
us away to the launch site. The sight that greeted us was nothing short of
magical. Dozens of colourful balloons dotted the sky, painting a brilliant
canvas as the sun began to rise.
As we ascended, the world below
transformed. Below us, the Nile shimmered, and temples basked in golden light.
We floated over the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, nestled against the cliffs
like a secret and over lush farmlands and ancient temples that have stood the
test of time for millennia.
After our flight, we journeyed to the
Temple of Hatshepsut, which we spotted from above. It is a stunning structure
against the cliffs of Deir El-Bahari on Luxor's western bank. This temple was
built to honour one of Egypt’s exceptional pharaohs, Hatshepsut, who ruled from
1479 to 1458 BCE. It was both awe-inspiring and sobering to learn that her
legacy was erased after her death, as her successor, Thutmose III, ordered her
images and cartouches defaced. Still, it was an honour to stand in a temple of
a woman who once ruled so powerfully in a male-dominated society. It was a day
filled with wonder and reflection, as history came alive beneath us.
Chapter 3 - Granite Dreams and Desert
Gods: Aswan
Aswan: Granite and Gods
In Aswan’s northern quarries, an area
renowned for its stunning pink granite, Amanda and I stumbled upon the
legendary Unfinished Obelisk, 42 meters long, cracked and abandoned. It was
meant for Karnak, perhaps commissioned by Hatshepsut herself. Just imagine if
it had been completed! Towering at a staggering 42 meters (138 feet) and
weighing around 1,200 tons, it would have been the largest known ancient
obelisk. This awe-inspiring sight would have stood proudly against the Egyptian
skyline. Standing there, gazing at the immense stone, I couldn't help but
marvel at what was achieved so many millennia ago.
Abu Simbel
We rose at 3 a.m. for our day trip to Abu
Simbel—a true marvel of ancient engineering and one of Egypt’s most
breathtaking legacies. It
was here that Ramesses II’s colossal statues stared down at us, eternal and
unblinking. Located in the southern reaches of Egypt, just a stone's throw from the
Sudanese border, Abu Simbel graces the western bank of Lake Nasser, about 230
km southwest of Aswan. This incredible complex was commissioned by none other
than Pharaoh Ramesses II around 1264 BC and took a staggering 20 years to complete!
The Great
Temple, dedicated to Ramesses II himself and the mighty gods Ra-Horakhty, Ptah,
and Amun, is nothing short of awe-inspiring. It boasts four colossal seated
statues of Ramesses II, each 20 meters tall, at its entrance—an unmatched
proclamation of divine kingship and military might that left us absolutely spellbound.
Then
there’s the Small Temple, a gem dedicated to Queen Nefertari and the goddess
Hathor. This temple is particularly special, as it portrays a queen at (nearly)
the same scale as the pharaoh. This rare distinction highlights the significant
role of women in ancient Egyptian society.
What’s even
more incredible is the story of the temples' survival. In the 1960s, they faced
the threat of submersion as the Aswan High Dam was being built. However, thanks
to an extraordinary UNESCO-led effort, these ancient treasures were
meticulously cut into massive blocks and reassembled within an artificial hill,
a monumental achievement in archaeological preservation that ensures they can
be admired for generations to come.
Philae: Beauty and
Bureaucracy
We spent our final day in Aswan
exploring the nearby Philae Temple, a gem among Egypt’s relocated wonders. Once
precariously perched on the edge of submersion, this magnificent island
sanctuary found new life on Agilkia. The temple was exquisite, but the journey
there was maddening. Haggling, misinformation, inflated prices. I remembered a traveller’s
quip: “The best way to visit Egypt is not to visit it at all.” In that moment,
I understood. And yet, standing before the temple, I also understood why we came.
Because beauty, even when buried in bureaucracy, still shines.
Kom Ombo and Edfu: Gods
of Crocodile and Falcon
We left Aswan behind, tracing the Nile
northward toward Luxor, with two sacred stops along the way.
At Kom Ombo, the temple rose like a
mirage on the riverbank—half dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god of fertility
and chaos, and half to Horus the Elder, the falcon-headed god of protection.
The symmetry was striking; a duality carved in stone. In the nearby Crocodile
Museum, mummified reptiles lay in glass cases, their ancient forms curled in
eternal stillness. It was eerie and oddly reverent. In Kom Ombo, the crocodile
god Sobek reigned. To honour him, priests raised crocodiles in sacred pools,
mummified them in death, and buried them like royalty.
I came here chasing stories. But I
found something more—a glimpse into a world where danger was divine, and even
death was wrapped in reverence.
Further along, we reached Edfu, home
to the best-preserved temple in Egypt. Dedicated to Horus, it stood proud and
imposing, its towering pylons etched with scenes of divine battles. The
hieroglyphs felt freshly carved, as if the priests had just stepped away. We
wandered through its hypostyle halls, dwarfed by columns and shadows, the air
thick with incense of centuries past.
Chapter 4 - Hurghada and the Return to
Cairo
Hurghada and the
Return to Cairo
After weeks of dust and stone,
Hurghada was a shock to the senses. The Red Sea shimmered in hues of turquoise
and sapphire, and the air smelled of salt instead of sand. We traded temples
for tidepools, tombs for coral reefs. It was a pause, a breath, a chance to let
the whirlwind of Egypt settle in our bones.
But even paradise has its limits. On
October 21, we returned to Cairo, looping back to where it all began. The city
hadn’t changed—but we had. We’d stood in the shadows of pharaohs, floated above
the Nile, argued with taxi drivers, and traced the footsteps of gods and
queens. Egypt had tested us, dazzled us, and left us breathless.
It was maddening. It was magnificent.
It was unforgettable. And with a
day to spare, we decided to make one final pilgrimage to the vibrant Khan
el-Khalili bazaar. The air was filled with the enticing aroma of spices and the
sounds of bustling market life as we meandered through the colourful stalls. We
couldn’t resist stopping by the legendary El Fishawy Cafe, where we settled
down with steaming cups of fragrant mint tea. The atmosphere buzzed with
chatter and music, the perfect backdrop for reflecting on our adventures in
Egypt.
Egypt didn’t offer comfort. It offered
confrontation—with history, with chaos, with my own expectations. But in that
friction, something shifted. I learned to let go of control, to laugh at the
absurd, to marvel without needing to understand. In the land of gods and
ghosts, I found a strange kind of clarity: that beauty and frustration often
walk hand in hand, and that wonder is rarely tidy.
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