171 THAILAND (1) The South Coast
and Beyond – 2024305 km - 4 Days
July 10 - Pattaya – Rayong
– 62 km
I found myself ready
surprisingly early. It may be because I was embarking on a short journey
this time, just a 10-day adventure before Dawn arrived on the 20th. I can't
wait for her visit and the fun activities we have planned (definitely not
cycling, LOL). My time in Thailand is drawing to a close. I don’t want to jinx
it, but hopefully, I'll be able to leave Thailand (as much as I love it) before
the year ends. Being holed up in nothing more than a hotel room for such a long
time is challenging.
As I pedalled out of
Jomtien, I couldn't help but chuckle. There's always an exhilarating feeling
when I set off towards an unknown destination, even if the area is familiar.
Despite the overcast weather, I daydreamed so much that I hardly took any
pictures. Most of my time was spent figuring out my new Garmin watch. I still need
to figure out why I thought getting it was a good idea. It's too complicated,
and I see little difference from my inexpensive Xiaomi Redmi watch. Oh
well, what's done is done, and I'll have to make it work.
Reaching Rayong, I decided
it was time to call it a day, mainly because the Richy Grant guesthouse is
cheap as chips and provides washing machines and filtered water. Plus, there's
a night market nearby! Before heading to the market, I should have grabbed a
small bite to eat, as I returned with enough food to feed an army. The rest of
the evening was spent reorganising my panniers while eating through the
mountain of purchased food.
11 July – Rayong – Roadside
guest cottage – 85 km
The previous night, the sky
put on a dramatic show with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. As the morning
arrived, a drizzle persisted, giving me the perfect excuse to organise my
belongings at leisure. Finally, when the rain subsided, I set out. However,
after a mere 5 km, the rain returned, forcing me to seek refuge at a petrol
station with an Amazon Café. The day, however, took a turn for the better,
offering ideal cycling conditions with a gentle ocean breeze and a thin cloud
cover, a complete contrast to the earlier deluge. My progress was slow as I made
adjustments every few kilometres – first, it was my watch, then the chain, and
later, the tyres. I also took advantage of the conditions and frequently
stopped to snap a few pics. It's always such a pleasure to cycle the South
Coast. Around 5 o'clock, I stumbled upon charming roadside cottages with nearby
shops and restaurants and thought it the perfect spot to spend the night.
12-13 July – Roadside
cottage – Chanthaburi – 75 km
I woke up surprisingly
early, made some coffee, and sat listening to the many birds as it was only 6
o'clock. Later, I packed up my things, said goodbye to the owner, and continued
my bike ride along the coast. It was a rather overcast day, but cycling the
scenic route along the coast is always a privilege. Along the way, I stopped at
a few viewpoints to enjoy views, which no doubt came with a bit of a climb.
With 20 kilometres left to go to Chanthaburi, I turned inland and passed by
emerald-green rice fields, which made the ornate Buddhist temples in the area
even more striking. When I arrived in Chanthaburi, I went straight to the old
waterfront community and checked into Laluna River House. It's affordable at
420 THB per room and offers a lovely river view. Since I arrived early, I spent
the rest of the day eating. The following day, I spent a super lazy day in
Chanthaburi, not doing much except walking around the supermarket and
investigating the old town.
The durian, also known as
the "king of fruit" in Asia, remains, at least to me, one of the
strangest fruits. Although native to Borneo and Sumatra, it is grown all over
Southeast Asia. It is enormous, mostly 30 cm x 15 cm, and, as can be expected
from such a large and heavy fruit, it grows on large branches and directly on
the trunk. It has a tough, spiky rind, which is nearly impossible to open
unless you know what you are doing. It also comes with an overpowering
(unpleasant?) odour. Despite this, it hides a soft, creamy flesh - a pricey
delicacy in Thailand. I've never bought any as they are expensive, but I love
durian-flavoured ice cream. The smell is so strong that most hotels and
guesthouses don’t allow durian.
14 July - Chantaburi – Bo
Rai Resort – 83 km
I was still determining where to go, so I followed minor roads until I reached the main road. Not feeling
like spending time on the busy Sukhumvit Road, I veered off at the first
opportunity. Soon, I found myself on a superb road heading north through dense
forests. The area seemed seldom visited, as I hardly encountered any traffic or
people. I was thus surprised and delighted to stumble upon quaint Bo Rai, which
sported a lovely hotel and a 7-Eleven.
I also heard from my dear
friend, Anil, that he was in Pattaya. Since I had never managed to catch up with
them when in India and had promised to meet them in Pattaya, I hurriedly
organised a ride back to Pattaya the following morning.
15 July – Bo Rai – Pattaya
And just like that, I was
back in Pattaya. Seeing Anil and his friends was lovely, and we spent an
evening socialising at the Beer Garden in Pattaya.
Seeing Dawn was arriving in
four days, I decided to stay put.
19 July – 18 August
Dawn arrived, and it was a
fun month of eating, drinking, and catching up with everyone. We spent a few
days on Ko Samet and, as always, in Bangkok, where we met Luke (her
son) just before they flew home. We had plans to do much more, but the days
flew by, and very few of our plans materialised.
20 August
Once back in Jomtien, I waited for my second bicycle to be serviced and started packing my panniers for my trip around Asia. I packed, cleaned the room, and got rid of loads of stuff I’d collected during my stay in Jomtien—none of which I really needed and, indeed, not anything I’d lug around with me on a bicycle trip.
(171) The Road North
to LaosJomtien – Nong Khai1 010 km – 16 Days
28 August – Jomtien – Khao Khan Song – 85 km
It was 28 August before I
cycled out of Jomtien. The day was anything but enjoyable, as I first had to
swing by the Immigration Office to get a re-entry permit into Thailand to avoid
losing my Non-Immigrant visa. This little procedure took the best part of two
hours, and it was 11.30 before I collected my passport and got back on the
bike.
Since I didn’t have a
specific route, I headed north. However, the minor roads I chose were
jampacked with trucks and construction vehicles, making them a nightmare to
navigate.
Major construction is
taking place in the area, and I couldn’t find any available accommodation due
to the rooms being occupied by permanent construction workers. I continued,
hoping to find something, but eventually decided to call it a day as the
traffic was downright dangerous. It took retracing my steps to where I saw a
guesthouse much earlier in the day. Whew, it's time to look at the map again.
29 August - Khao Khan Song
Even though I say Khao Khan
Song, I am not sure it is the name of the town, village or guesthouse as everything
is written in Thai. I might have left too much in a hurry as a few outstanding
tasks remained. Fortunately, just about anything can be done online. Since I
had the luxury of a room with a chair and table as well as a veranda with a
resident cat, staying put was a good idea. My online business took
the best part of the day, and once everything was done, it was already 5 pm,
and I ambled to the supermarket for my evening meal and beer.
30 August – Khao Khan Song –
Bang Khla – 84 km
By morning I saddled my old iron horse
land returned to the busy main road. Luckily, the road was
new and had a generous shoulder almost as wide as the vehicle lanes. I veered
off onto a more minor route only once, but my euphoria was short-lived as the path
petered out. I picked up a tailwind and blitzed it to charming Bang Khla,
situated on the Bang Pakong River, without being rained on. That said, it
started raining just as I cycled into town, and I pulled into the first
available accommodation, resulting in my paying a tad more than usual, but I
was rewarded with a lovely spacious room with aircon and hot water for $14. At
least I'm out of the madness and looking forward to the ride north, as there's
plenty to see with a good mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage.
While enjoying a delicious
plate of fried rice, it dawned on me that Thailand has its own table manners,
similar to other cultures in the world, but fortunately, the rules of food
etiquette are pretty simple. Spoons and forks are the main eating utensils in
Thailand. Generally, a spoon is called ‘Chon’ in Thai, and a fork is called
‘Som’. The spoon is used to put food into the mouth, while the fork is used to
scoop and arrange rice and food onto the spoon so it doesn’t fall off on its
way to your mouth. Thai people mainly eat using a spoon and do not put a fork
into their mouths. They don’t typically use a knife much while eating Thai
food, as most dishes are served in bite-size pieces, so there is no need to use
a knife.
31 August – Bang Kla –
Nakhon Nayok – 90 km
In the morning, I first cycled
a few kilometres to Wat Pho Bang Khla, believed to have been built during the
reign of King Taksin the Great (between 1767 and 1782). The temple's
architecture bears the influence of Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin-period. The most
interesting thing, though, is the temple's resident fruit bats, which reside in
the trees within the temple grounds.
Next, I visited the
floating market, which isn’t much of a floating market but rather resembles a
food market on the banks of the river. My next stop was at Wat Pak Nam Jolo,
another historical temple believed to have been built 200 years ago. From Bang
Kla, a lovely ride took me along the Bang Pakong River.
Around midday, I felt
hungry and stopped at a roadside shelter for a bite to eat. A very surprised
lady quickly prepared a delicious meal of rice and spicy vegetables topped with
a fried egg. All this happened without me speaking Thai or the lady any
English. Hahaha
Just before reaching Nakhon
Nayok, I turned off to the ruins of the ancient town of Dong Lakhon. The area
dates back to the 9th to 11th centuries and not many
remains of the structure except a well and a moat that surrounded the city.
Still, it’s a lovely area to stroll about.
1 September – Nakhon Nayok –
50 km
I decided to extend my stay
for an extra night and ventured into Khao Yai National Park with hopes of
discovering stunning waterfalls. The park is enormous, covering over 2,000
square kilometres. Not only is it the oldest park in Thailand, but it’s also a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Being a beautiful Sunday
morning and the park's proximity to Bangkok, nothing came of my visions of
enjoying my 7-Eleven sandwich by a waterfall with just the soothing sounds of
nature. Still, the area is undeniably beautiful. If I ever find myself in the
vicinity again, I will cycle through one gate and exit through another; that
way, I will see far more, and I’m sure it will be less crowded.
2 September – Nakhon Nayok
– Pask Chonlasit Dam – 106 km
I had a delightful ride
along my chosen route, which followed the boundaries of the National Park and
led me through small communities. In these communities, it seemed like all the
women were either using a mortar and pestle or cooking up something delicious
in a wok, some so potent it made me sneeze. The road was lined with frangipani
trees, and the air was filled with the smell of freshly cut grass. I didn't have
a specific plan or destination, so I followed the signs to the Pask
Chonlasit Dam. Since it was a Monday, there was only one other cyclist and a
couple from elsewhere in Thailand at the campsite. They later came and asked if
they could have a picture with me. It seems like I must make quite an
impression! LOL
3 September – Pasal
Chonlasit Dam – Sa Kruat - 88 km
I woke up early, as the
other cyclist in the camp was up at an ungodly hour. If you've ever slept in a
hiking hut, you probably know the sound of those plastic bags. I always want to
ask, “What are you looking for?” Hahaha. Then he started listening to his
music, which must have sounded quite soothing to him as he relaxed, looking out
over the dam. Unfortunately, sound travels very well in environments like that,
so I was also up at the crack of dawn. LOL.
As I cycled over the dam
wall, I felt immensely grateful to be out there heading in a direction I wasn’t
quite sure where it would lead. My path followed the eastern shores of the dam,
which was quiet with just a few motorbikes, herds of buffalo, a snake, and a
large Songololo. I couldn’t wish for more. At midday, I stopped for a plate of
fried rice, which is always an interesting affair due to my being a foreigner
and, as they say, “only one.” Hahaha.
When threatening clouds
rolled in, I called it quits at the next village, which I think is Sa Kruat, in
the Si Thep district. The reason for stopping here was twofold, as I was toying
with the idea of going to the Si Thep Historical Park in the morning, but we’ll
see about that.
4 September – Sa Kruat – Windy
Guesthouse. Si Thep - 30 km
I woke up early feeling
well-rested and decided to visit the nearby Si Thep Historical Park. This
archaeological site covers the ancient city of Si Thep, which was inhabited
from the third to fifth century CE until the thirteenth century. Si Thep was
one of the largest city-states in the plains of Central Thailand. In 2023, it
was added to the World Heritage List as The Ancient Town of Si Thep.
After visiting the park, I
checked into a guesthouse across the road to do laundry and fix the slow leak
in the back wheel of my bicycle. Later, I cycled 1.5 km to a supermarket and
unexpectedly got caught in a heavy downpour. I waited at a shelter for about 10
minutes before continuing to the shop in the sunshine. Weird.
There is quite a story
behind my order of fried rice tonight. When the person running the guesthouse
asked if I wanted food, I said, "Fried rice," thinking they might
take orders there. Instead, he hopped on his motorbike and travelled about 2 km
to a restaurant to get the meal. He came back soaked, but the food was still
piping hot! I felt it was fair to give him $2.5 for a $1.25 meal, as where else
in the world can you get a home-delivered meal for $2.50?
5 September – Windy
Guesthouse, Si Thep – Haus Luneburg, Phakdi Chumphon – 88 km
I first rode to Wichian
Buri to buy a new inner tube because I had discarded one and I like to keep two
spares. The people there were incredibly friendly. They not only directed me to
a shop where I could buy what I needed but also gave me two bottles of water.
This was very helpful since I ended up needing more water than I had expected
due to the heat and the steep climb. Despite the high temperature, the ride was
amazing. I can't seem to stick to a main road, and I soon found myself on a
narrow secondary road passing through small communities. After crossing the
pass, I encountered an ice cream vendor and couldn't resist buying some. It was
served with sticky rice, small scoops of ice cream, peanuts, and a dash of
condensed milk! Fuelled by the sugar, I sped down the road, where I came to a
screeching halt at Haus Luneburg, a lovely guesthouse with a swimming pool. I
didn't waste any time unloading the bike before jumping into the pool with a
Chang beer in hand.
6 September - Haus Luneburg
– Resort roadside cottages – 103 km
Again, I was blessed with a
stunning ride, Route 2037 has been an absolute delight to cycle. My path was
littered with tiny hamlets, always with a temple a school and a market. Midway,
the weather came in, and in bucketing rain, I continued as it wasn’t cold. The
rain soon abated, and I continued until spotting roadside cottages. Even though
it was early, it looked like more rain ahead, and I called it a day. Stopping
so early also meant there wasn’t much to do, and I did the dreaded laundry and
went in search of a tap to wash off the mud from the bike.
7 - 8 September -Roadside
cottage – Khon Kaen – 110 km
I think I wore a permanent
grin today as it was yet another fantastic ride through the countryside. The
weather was great; the rice paddies were green, the corn stood high, and I
counted myself among the luckiest people on the planet. The kilometres ticked
by effortlessly, and not even the village dogs gave chase. With a stiff breeze
on my back, I ambled through numerous settlements and colourful temples until
reaching Khon Kaen, where I planned to stay for two days to do the necessary
chores.
The following day, I did
the laundry at a laundromat directly outside my abode. Later, I ambled around
the city lake, a pleasant, shaded walk past numerous temples. Afterwards, I
cycled to the bike shop, which was a pleasant surprise as it was well stocked
and professional. They adjusted the gears and also fitted an odometer.
By evening, I stopped at
the night market, where I found little for vegetarians except some freshly made
French fries. Fearing it wouldn’t be enough, I also bought a pizza, which cost
the same as my room. Well, if you want to eat foreign food, it's always costly.
9 September – Kong Kaen –
Roadside cottage – 110 km
I slept surprisingly well on the lumpy mattress, but what can one expect for 350THB? After getting up at 6, I was ready to roll at 8 a.m. and found the city far more substantial than I had imagined. The morning traffic was challenging, but I realised I was in Thailand when drivers stopped to let me across the road. Only in Thailand! I soon found myself amongst the rice paddies with my music blearing far too loud. The ride was pleasant and interesting as I came upon the holy pond at Ku Ban Na Kham Noi. I learned that the structures surrounding the pond were used as a hospital during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1177-1237) of the Khmer Empire. Then, I went on to the Cobra Village, but I didn’t linger as I didn’t think any animal wanted to be in captivity no matter how well they were treated. Towards the end of the day, I veered off toward the main road, where one can find accommodation and other services. Once there, I found the road smooth as a baby’s bottom and pushed on a further 30 km, even though I don’t like cycling on highways. When the weather came in, I pulled into the nearest guest accommodation and was pleased to find a cute 350THB bungalow. No lumpy mattress, air-con, fan, two bottles of water and clean bedding. Bargain!
10 September – Roadside
cottage to Ban Daeng - 100 km
I headed through the countryside
and came upon a multitude of fascinating sites. Shortly after leaving, the map
indicated a Monkey Park, and I investigated only to find an ordinary city park
with outdoor gym equipment and volleyball courts overrun by monkeys. LOL. I
don’t think anyone is using it, as the monkeys were a menace, and I didn’t dare
leave the bike. So, it is a very aptly named monkey park. Not much further was
a large lake known as the Red Lotus Lake. I didn’t see any red lotus flowers;
maybe their time was over, or there wasn’t enough water in the lake. Still, it
was a peaceful ride along its shores and through rural villages where fishing
seemed to be the main occupation. Thirty kilometres or so later, I stumbled
upon the remarkable Ban Chiang. The
Ban Chiang Archaeological Site is a prehistoric human habitation and burial
site. It is considered to be the most important prehistoric settlement
discovered in Southeast Asia so far, marking the beginning and showing the
development of the wet-rice culture typical of the region. The site has been
dated by scientific chronometric means, which have established that the site
was continuously occupied from 1495 BC until c. 900BC., making it the earliest
scientifically dated prehistoric farming and habitation site in Southeast Asia
known at the time of inscription onto the World Heritage List.
After leaving Ban Chiang, I made my way north
toward the Laos border. My presents created quite a stir, and I had a distinct
feeling that the area was seldom visited by foreigners. This was such a rural
area that I never spotted any accommodation, and when it started raining, I
pulled into the nearest Buddhist temple, where I asked if I could set up my
tent. I was pointed to a large, covered area, and no sooner was the tent up than
the lady monks started chanting. What a pleasant way to spend an evening.
11 September – Ban Daeng Temple – Nong Khai –
62 km
At three o'clock in the morning, the nuns were
rummaging through their meagre belongings and by four, the chanting was in full
swing. LOL. I was on the road by 6, I’m sure it’s a record! My first top was at
one of the food vendors, which is always an interesting experience. Riding was
a wet affair, but I still reached Nong Khai before midday. My abode of choice
was Mud Mee Guesthouse, a well-kept and inexpensive place right on the Mekong
River. The guesthouse also has a lovely garden restaurant and coffee shop, and
I paid for two nights as I felt tired. I did little of note for the rest of the
day and, by evening, had a beer and a vegetarian green curry at the restaurant.
A massive storm came in at night with loud thunder that shook the building! I
was mighty pleased I wasn’t camping.
I slept in and, in the late
morning, sauntered to the nearby supermarket to get a few items I may need in
Laos.
