INDONESIA (1)
5 Java, 6 Bali & 7 Lombok
1117 Kilometres – 32 Day
10
July – 11 August 2010
Photos
JAVA
10 July – Makassar, Sulawesi – Surabaya, Java – By boat
The many passengers on the ferry generated a significant amount of
garbage. Meals and snacks were all served in polystyrene containers, and for
the most part wrappers were plastic. I was impressed that all trash was
collected in large plastic refuse bags and stored at the other end of our
passage. But, to my shock and horror, a large side-hatch was opened during the
night, and all rubbish, was unceremoniously dumped into the ocean. I couldn’t
believe my eyes.
Due to our engine problems, our boat only docked in Surabaya around
22h00, instead of in the afternoon. It took forever to get off the ship hauling
bikes and panniers. Our late arrival further meant cycling in darkness to find a
place to bed down, and I was more than happy off the ship and out in the fresh
air.
11 July – Surabaya
Due to Ernest being unwell, one more day was spent in Surabaya. I wandered
about the Surabaya markets and found that most people have at least heard of
South Africa. However, my impression was many still thought of South Africa as
a geographical term, referring to Southern Africa. A typical reaction was
often, “But you are not black?” or, as someone asked, “Where in South Africa?
Nigeria?”
12-13 July - Surabaya - Pasuruan – 67 km
The route to Pasuruan was a relatively short distance. Still, it was
congested with heavy traffic and was, at times, a nerve-wracking ride. The
entire way was clogged, and we never cleared the city limits. The ride consequently
became a soot-laden exhaust-inhaled cycle. Still, I preferred biking to staying
indoors.
I must’ve caught Ernest’s cold and suffered from a tight chest, blocked
nose and headache. Fortunately, guava stands lined the path, selling guavas as
well as guava juice, making a great drink when loaded with ice.
Mercifully, we soon spotted a comfortable looking guesthouse. Not merely
were the rooms outside, but also on the ground floor and sported a window and a
veranda overlooking a central garden. The next day, Ernest and I felt a tad off
and stayed in bed, making good use of our cosy room.
14 July - Pasuruan – Probolinggo - 41 km
A short and easy cycle led to Probolinggo. Again, the route was along a
busy highway, but at least the ride was flat and we benefited from a slight
tailwind. Probolinggo was the jumping-off point for visits to Gunung Bromo, the
nearby volcano, and I was keen to investigate.
15 July - Gunung Bromo
I got up early the following day, left Ernest in bed, and headed up the
mountain to see the sunrise. I hadn’t seen that many tourists in a long while
and wondered where they all came from. Of course, one had to stretch your neck
to catch a glimpse of the sunrise. Still, it remained a spectacular sight, sporting
fantastic views of the dramatic surrounding landscape.
With its smoking cone and smelling strongly of rotten eggs, Mount Bromo
is situated in a vast caldera and surrounded by various other craters. The
eerie scenes have spurned countless legends and myths. Mt Bromo is of
particular importance to the Tengger people, who believe this is the site where
a brave prince sacrificed his life for his family. The people here appease the
Gods once a year during the annual Kasada festival. Offerings of vegetables,
chickens and money are thrown into the volcano’s crater to keep the beast’s
smouldering fury at bay.
A climb to the lip of the crater to see what was below revealed a fiery
caldera as plumes of thick smoke billowed from deep inside the earth. The smoke
created otherworldly vistas. Returning to our abode, I found Ernest still
semi-comatose under the covers.
16 July - Probolinggo – Situbondo – 102 km
Being well-rested, I had a great day on the bike; the route was flat, minus
the usual hectic traffic. Our path hugged the coast much of the way, and albeit
not a beachy area, more like mangrove swamps, it remained great riding next to
the ocean.
BALI
17
July – Situbondo, Java – Gilimanuk, Bali – 90 km
The
day started promising, but a stiff headwind slowed our efforts, worsening as
the day progressed. The road wasn’t as flat as the previous day and was slightly
undulating. Luckily, the hilly area was through a shady forest. From the dock
in Ketapang, a short ferry ride took us across the Sea of Bali to the island of
Bali.
At
last, I landed in Bali, a place that conjured up images of a relaxing beach
life, cocktail in hand. Finally, I was ready for an island holiday in a beach
hut behind potted plants.
Barely
off the ferry, an advertising board pointed to rooms, and what a delightful
place it turned out - little bungalows in an overgrown garden, almost what I’d
in mind.
18
July - Gilimanuk – Medewi Beach - 59 km
The
first part of the day was through a national park under a green canopy of
trees. No wonder Bali was such a popular destination; the island clearly had
more than beaches. The Balinese Hindu culture was alive and well, and I seldom
saw such a vast collection of Hindu temples and shrines. Towns and settlements cycled
through all had a strong ancient Hindu flavour reflected in the architecture.
Upon
rolling into the famous surfing spot of Medewi Beach, I called it a day. Close
to the turnoff was a superb place featuring an equally excellent menu.
19-21
July - Medewei Beach – Denpasar (Capital of Bali) – 74 km
Bali
has everything to make it a true paradise: with its warm tropical climate and
great beaches, good surf, palm trees and frangipanis, the island is close to
heaven. Add to that an evocative Hindu culture, green paddy fields and friendly
Balinese, and it sure was a winner. Typical island style, plenty of fruit was
available along the way. Roadside stalls sold bright red watermelons, large
yellow bananas, pineapples and mangoes.
Upon
reaching the capital, the priority was to inquire about a visa to Australia.
There were many filling in of forms, copies made as well as a host of other
requirements. Once done, all was handed in and it became a matter of wait and
see. Ernest was satisfied sitting in a room in Denpasar, but I was bored stiff.
Time to move on and check on the progress of the visa later. There must be more
to do in Bali than sit in a city room, staring at the ceiling.
22-28
July - Denpasar – Kuta Beach & Uluwatu - 10km/29km/28km
With
a reluctant Ernest in tow, I saddled up and biked the short distance to the
famous, or infamous, Kuta Beach. The area had a lively touristy trade and came
as a shock following such a long time in the rest of Indonesia. The beach was
swarming with tourists and narrow pedestrian lanes crammed with curio stalls,
T-shirts, surf shops, western restaurants, booze, tattoo shops and marijuana. We
eventually found reasonably priced lodging and parked off, absorbing our new
environment.
The
unique thing about humans is how quickly they can adapt to new circumstances.
Soon I was shopping, eating, drinking, and nearly had a new tattoo. I joined
the beer-swirling holidaying Aussies, ate at Pizza Hut, swam in the ocean,
dodged curio sellers and anyone else trying to sell me a trip to a nearby
island.
I
enthusiastically told a fellow traveller about our trip, and when he said he didn’t
believe me, I was gobsmacked! A leisurely bike ride took us to Uluwatu Beach,
one of Bali’s most famous surfing spots if not in the world. Unfortunately, there
was no accommodation at the surfing point, and practically all rooms were
scattered along the hilly path. After only one night we returned to Kuta,
waiting to hear from the Australian Embassy. Once in Kuta, a better spot was
found at Sari Bali – a lovely place sporting a balcony and pool. We enjoyed a
luxurious life of eating pizzas and drinking beers.
29
July - Kuta – Padang Bai – 61 km
Finally,
we waved touristy Kuta goodbye and pedalled towards Denpasar to pick up our
passports. Naturally, we were eager to see if the visas had been granted. We
were thus delighted to see a three-month visa securely pasted in the passports.
As
our Indonesian visas were valid two more weeks and our flight from Bali to
Darwin was scheduled for 10 August, we continued to Padang Bai from where
ferries departed to Lombok.
Bali
was smaller than envisaged and our chosen path, pleasant and picturesque. All
in all, an enjoyable ride, peppered with Balinese Hindu temples and shrines.
Padang Bai wasn’t merely a ferry port but quite a fun little community, featuring
a small touristy seafront and heaps of places to stay and eat. Our budget digs
came complete with sheets not changed in months. By evening a small restaurant
along the “strip” lured us in. Ernest went wild and ordered a steak. Although
the steak was ordered “rare”, he claimed the stake was cremated and resembled
part of an old shoe sole, just as flat and just as tough, hahaha. He also
sarcastically claimed the accompanying French fries looked and tasted exactly
like rice. My vegetable curry was a winner, and it appeared by sticking to regional
cuisine, you could avoid disaster on a plate.
LOMBOK
30
June - Padang Bai, Bali – Senggigi, Lombok – 40 km
The
ferry departed at 10h00 for the four-hour voyage to Lombok. From the Lombok
ferry port, a 20 kilometres cycle ride led to the capital which we bypassed in
favour of Senggigi, further up the coast and famed for its lovely beaches. However,
with Senggig being the most touristy place on Lombok island, the majority of
accommodation along the beach was expensive. Sadly, there was no beach where I
envisaged myself in a bamboo hut - water lapping at my feet.
Fortunately,
in well-frequented places, one can always find a budget hut. That evening,
Ernest, at long last, enjoyed fish prepared to his taste. I ordered the fried
vegetables and tofu, which turned out delicious. Cooking was a major bone of
contention between Ernest and me as he insisted on cooking. In contrast, I
preferred to eat from mobile food carts. My preference to eat local was partly because
I’d no interest in preparing food, and partly because I saw food as part of a
country’s culture and, therefore, as part of travelling. Most of all, I had to
pay for the ingredients that Ernest cooked and thought eating from the food
carts was much less expensive and far more convenient. Still, he insisted on
cooking!
31
July - Senggigi – Senaru – 85 km
Generally,
rooms came with a simple complimentary breakfast, and that day was no
different. Breakfast consisted of a touristy banana pancake and coffee.
Afterwards, we saddled up our iron horses for a trip around the island.
We
made our way via the hilly route, huffing and puffing up the steep little
inclines to fly down the other side at high speed. The ongoing roadworks made
it even harder. While pushing my bicycle up one particularly sharp incline
through the roadwork, a kind motorbike passenger wanted to help. I think he
underestimated the weight and soon abandoned me to my own devices.
Senaru,
the jumping-off point for treks to Mount Rinjani, was along a short 10 km
detour but the route led straight up the mountain. Our overnight spot featured stunning
views of the famous Rinjani volcano. I was itching to trek up to the crater,
but not enough time was left for such adventures.
1
August - Sennaru – Lanbuhan Lombok – 68 km
In
the morning, the road took us down the mountain and onwards to Labuan Lombok,
the ferry terminal to Sumbawa Island, our next destination. The landscape was breathtaking
and friendly kids cheered us on while gasping up a near-vertical climb. A
chorus of “turist, turist” and “hello mister” could be heard while pedalling
past rural settlements.
Upon
consultation with islanders, we concluded it best to stay the night and cross
to Sumbawa Island in the morning. Food was bought at the market, and
eventually, Ernest found a decent white snapper which he filleted and fried for
supper.
2
August - Lanbuhan Lombok – Mataram – 75 km
Somehow
our plans changed during the night, and we stayed in Lombok instead of crossing
the short straight to Sumbawa.
Villagers
reliably informed us that the way to the west coast was flat, but I think by
“flat” they meant “straight” instead of hilly. Our path was dotted by small
hamlets where the horse and buggy were still in full use, which seemed the
primary mode of public transport. Farmers still ploughed their rice fields using
oxen, and people were amazed that one could cycle to Mataram.
In
Mataram, a lovely homestay was located where we could unsaddle our own
well-used horses. Ernest did his usual afternoon march around the markets, and,
as usual, returned with a Bintang and a few snacks.
Bali
3
August - Mataram, Lombok – Padang Bai, Bali – 21 km
A
short amble took us to the harbour for the return ferry ride to Bali, reaching the
port with minutes to spare. Along with trucks, buses, curio sellers and
hawkers, we boarded the boat for another four-hour crossing. The swell was
large, and one could do little else but settle in upon a mat and eat Pop-Mie
(cup noodles) and salak (snake fruit), which we’d bought earlier.
By
the time the ferry docked in Bali, the time was 16h30, and we opted for the
same hotel where we’d stayed before (we were suckers for punishment). However,
at least the staff had changed the sheets, and while not fresh, the sheets were
less “used” than on the previous visit.
BALI
4
August - Padang Bai – Amed – 56 km
I
knew it was simply a matter of time until our flight out, and I was reluctant
to cycle. Eventually, we resumed our ride and veered west around the island. So,
off over the hills we went and it turned out a superb ride. Lush and green with
rice paddies and temples made the trip pleasurable, and I was happy on the
bike. We came across various celebrations or festivals complete with people
dressed in traditional clothes, as well as dancers and bands. That said, it
could also have been a funeral (who knows?).
Once
over the eastern hills, a downhill ride led to the coast. Once there, we came upon
a strip of fishing villages known as Amed, an immensely touristy area along the
far east coast. A guesthouse directly upon the beach, a swim in the ocean, a
cold beer and a plate of spicy food concluded the day. Even though the beach
was a black volcanic pebble beach, the water was crystal clear and lukewarm.
5
August - Amed – Lovina - 85 km
A
good tailwind made easy biking via a reasonably flat road beside the ocean. Later,
Ernest bought himself a fish at the market - a rather strange-looking,
pike-like creature he cleaned and deboned for hours. He was pretty pleased with
the result, but to me, that much work should’ve produced a lot more fish but,
then again, I’m sluggish when it comes to cooking food and instead ate my
instant noodles.
6
August - Lovina – Tangerang - 83 km
From
Lovina, the way took us over the hills via a decent climb towards Denpasar and
the airport. The scenery was, again, sublime as the way headed past neatly
terraced rice fields. Overnighting was in the big town of Tangerang, roughly 20
kilometres north of Denpasar.
7
August - Tangerang – Kuta - 36 km
The
ride to Kuta was reasonably quick but not without a few rain showers. En route
Ernest bought a spare rim, and it appeared he wanted to take as much as
possible to Australia. Then came the time to sort out bags and bikes for the
flight to Darwin, trying to reduce the weight as much as possible (apart from the
rim) as excess baggage came at a hefty price.
8-11
August - Kuta – Kuta Airport – 7 km – Darwin, Australia
The
following day was spent scrubbing and cleaning bikes, doing laundry and sorting
out gear for the flight to Darwin, Australia. I wondered who worked out the
timetable as our flight was at 11 pm, arriving in Darwin at 3 am. That surely can’t
be a convenient time for anyone. Nevertheless, I was pretty excited to
experience Australia, a new country and culture, following such a long time in
Africa and Asia.
At
last, we said “Selamat tinggal dan Terima kase, Indonesia” as we biked the
short distance to the airport. Once at the airport, we expected to box the
bikes, but no boxes were available (contrary to what we’d been told). We were immensely
fortunate to meet Tan C.K, an extremely helpful Malaysian who had bought a bike
in Bali. He contacted the bicycle shop, who brought us two bike boxes and
helped pack the bikes.
The
sad part was paying for our overweight baggage. Even after a discount, the fee was
far more than the ticket price (maybe it was that rim). As with all budget
airlines, I thought it surprising the toilets were free.
