THAILAND (18.2)
Bangkok to Phuket
1427 Km – 23 Days
1 November – 28 November 2018
Photos
Map
1 November – Bangkok
Jan arrived in the afternoon, looking nonplussed
following an exceptionally long flight from South Africa. As Jan needed no
rest, enough time remained to walk around famous Khao San Road and do my
favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The trip involved
catching the late ferry to its final destination and boarding the last boat
back. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather was good and the ride offered a spectacular
sunset. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a constant flow of traffic
and the river breeze made a welcome relief from the Bangkok heat. Our ferry passed
barges carrying huge loads moving slowly upstream, and people commuting to and
from work filled the boat.
On returning, we hurried to one of
the backstreet restaurants to find a plate of green curry and a few Chang beers.
2 November – Bangkok
Our plans of waking early never materialised,
and thus mid-day by the time our exploring started. Walking the streets of old
Bangkok is always a pleasure. Our meander took us past the old Phra Sumen Fort,
one of only two remaining forts out of 14 built more than two centuries ago. Following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767,
Bangkok was established as the new capital. Initially, Bangkok was a
walled city with canals dug to act as a moat. However, the university campus, has an
excellent location, right on the busy River Chao Phraya, and a walkabout revealed
ruins of the old city wall.
The amulet market sported a beautiful and
bizarre collection of amulets, albeit somewhat creepy. The market sold small
talismans and is primarily frequented by collectors, monks and, taxi drivers. The
majority of clientele appeared men looking through magnifying glasses at tiny
amulets, mainly used for “good luck” or fertility. Several items appeared more
ominous looking than innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few seemed downright
voodoo-ish!
Before popping
into one of Bangkok’s most visited spots, Wat Pho temple, home to a massive
reclining Buddha, it was necessary to remove our shoes. The statue measures 46 metres long and 15 metres tall and is
covered in gold leaf, an impressive sight by anyone’s standards. The reclining Buddha
represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter parinirvana. On leaving the vast hall, one could purchase a bowl of
coins which were then dropped in the 108 bronze bowls lining the length of the
wall. Dropping the coins into the bowls made a beautiful ringing sound, and I
understood the money went towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat
Pho. One hundred and eight is a significant number in Buddhism, referring to
the 108 positive actions and symbols which helped lead Buddha to perfection.
From there, our path followed old canals past
noodle soup eateries, and we couldn’t resist sitting down to a steaming bowl of
their delicious soup. Finally, our little walking tour brought us to the Golden
Mound, sporting a golden stupa on top, offering stunning city views.
We set out again at sunset and sat on
the pavement at small tables on equally small chairs, enjoying a plate of Pad Thai.
Pad Thai, Thailand’s most famous dish: is a sweet and spicy combination of
noodles, eggs, and vegetables. All washed down with a large Chang Beer. On our
way home, the Blues bar was an excellent place to drink a glass of chilled red
wine on the pavement, albeit at an astronomical price.
3 November – Bangkok
One more day was spent in Bangkok, as there
was no rush to go anywhere. Our test ride was a short but pleasant trip around
the Royal residence and back. The search to find a new cap was on in all
earnest as my old one had fallen apart. Finally, after taking the canal ferry
to the city centre, I uncovered a suitable cap, though at a hefty price. As
always, central Bangkok was intriguing. Amidst the chaotic public
transport network and shopping malls sat the Erawan shrine, one of Bangkok’s most famous
shrines. The smell of incense hung thick in the air as devotees stopped to pay
their respects.
Then back to our guesthouse using the Sky
train and the river ferry. Midway through our journey, our ferry, however, came
to an abrupt halt. Lacking any command of the Thai language, the affair turned
out a bit of a mystery. There was little choice but to follow the other
commuters and abandon our ride, leaving us to make the rest of our journey on
foot. Fortunately, a pleasant walk led along the river and through the flower
market, laughing at our odd situation. We still couldn’t figure out why we were so
promptly dumped by the side of the river. Our walk back took us past the
second-hand false teeth salesman, and I was surprised to note the false teeth
and bridges were slowly becoming less. (I’m not kidding you)
Back at our digs, beer was enjoyed watching
the sunset from the roof terrace of the Riverline Guesthouse.
4-5 November – Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 80 km
Finally, the time came to start cycling, and what
a delightful day it turned into. Being a Sunday morning, the traffic was light,
allowing us an easy escape from hectic Bangkok. Our route followed the Prem
Prachakon canal giving a little insight into the daily life of the Thai people.
With that, it was weekend people were in a laidback mood, fishing or paying
their respects at the temple. Others were preparing rice paddies or peddling
their wares by motorbike.
We slowly made our way past modest houses on
stilts, bright green rice fields and welcoming villagers. Men proudly showed
off their fighting chickens, and narrow, ramshackle makeshift walkways led
to homes on the opposite side of the canal.
Shortly before reaching Ayutthaya, a short
detour went to the Bang Pa-In Palace, built on an island in the Chao Phraya
River. The palace dates back to the 17th century and revealed a
rather amusing history, at least to me. The story goes: the illegitimate son of
King Ekathotsarot, King Prasat Throng, constructed the palace. King
Ekathotsarot was shipwrecked on the island and fathered a son by a woman who
befriended him (it’s an age-old thing in Thailand). The son became king, maybe merely
of the island!
Just ahead of Ayutthaya, our path ended
abruptly at a river, but fortunately, a ferry took pedestrians across. Once in
town, Baan Lotus Guesthouse, an old schoolhouse, made a comfortable stay. I was
surprised and at the same time, immensely impressed the owner remembered me.
She was of advanced age but still as sharp as a pin.
Our lack of lunch left us starving and sent
us rushing to a nearby restaurant.
The next day was spent exploring Ayutthaya’s ruins. Once
the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. The city
enjoyed an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago and
soon became Asia’s trading capital. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest
city globally with 1 million inhabitants. All this came to a swift end when the
Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and practically raised it to the ground. The
ruins are today a UNESCO world heritage site.
The perfect weather made for a sunset boat
ride on the river surrounding Ayutthaya, disembarking at a few temples and
ending the trip at the night market.
6 November - Ayutthaya – Lopburi - 67 km
Following breakfast, Jan and I biked out of
Ayutthaya and slowly made our way into the breeze towards Lopburi. A quick
visit to the elephant kraal left me depressed. I thought it sad to see those
magnificent animals chained and trained to do elephant rides. Baby elephants
had nowhere to run or play, and their mothers looked agitated.
The path ran past bizarre temples and farmers
working in the fields. Shortly before Lopburi, a sign pointed to a 300-year-old
rubber tree as well as a boat museum making an interesting stop. A kind man
offered to show us around. He explained the uses and names of the many wooden
boats on display in broken English. Monks used some in their daily food
collection and others for fishing. The king apparently used the near
300-year-old dragon boat look-alike powered by 12 rowers.
Then on to Lopburi, where Noom Guesthouse
(where I usually stay) was fully booked. They pointed us to the Nett Hotel, a
sister hotel around the corner. The rooms revealed permanently closed windows as
the monkeys forced their way in, even with bars fitted to all the windows. Cute
as they were, they could be quite a menace.
Once our exploring was done, food and beer were
at the Noom Guesthouse restaurant. I was thoroughly impressed by the owner who not
simply recognised me but mentioned that I departed without collecting the key
deposit staying there nine months earlier (in the company of Janice and Chris).
I couldn’t recall the occasion, but the money was duly deducted from our bill.
How fantastic is that!
7 November - Lopburi – Suphan Bhuri - 100 km
“Good morning,” Jan called as he walked past
my room earlier than usual. The monkeys causing havoc on the tin roof must’ve
woken him early. Breakfast was sitting on the pavement outside the 7-Eleven,
and then, dodging monkeys, we cycled out of Lopburi. A tailwind made pleasant
and effortless riding along the smallest of rural roads.
Villagers were selling tiny dried fish, while
others were drying rice or fishing in the canals. A great deal of rural life in
Thailand revolves around rice, and farmers were preparing rice paddies, while
others were busy planting or harvesting.
At midday, a delicious and sweet watermelon,
from a roadside stall made a perfect lunch. Not a great deal further, a sign pointed
to a Buffalo Village. It turned out a resort offering bungalows and an insight
into rural Thai life.
Though a pleasant day of biking, the distance
was slightly longer than anticipated. Maybe too much time was spent zigzagging
through the countryside. Once an abode was located, we headed straight to the
nearest restaurant.
8-9 November – Suphan Buri – Kanchanaburi –
115 km
In the morning, our path proceeded through farmlands
in the direction of Kanchanaburi. Weaving our way through hamlets and past vast
areas of wetlands, farmers, water buffalo, and cows with long ears all looked
up in surprise as we biked past. It appeared a rarity seeing farangs on
bicycles.
I was pleasantly surprised to see communities
declaring war on aquatic weed, threatening to choke their waterways. Water
hyacinth is considered one of the most dangerous invasive plant species
worldwide. Innovative Thais were drying this weed and creating water hyacinth
handicrafts, such as woven bags and baskets.
The road led past a string of ornate Buddhist
temples, rice fields, and duck farms.
The Don Chedi Monument, dedicated to King
Naresuan the Great’s victory over Burmese forces, made a surprise stop. It’s said
in 1592, King Naresuan the Great defeated Phra Maha Upparacha, leader of the
Burmese army, in a fierce royal duel on elephant back. I wondered how fierce a
battle could be on elephant back?
Hundred and fifteen kilometres later we reached
Kanchanaburi, made famous by the legendary bridge over the River Kwai. Kanchanaburi
was a pleasant town on the banks of the Kwai river. Basic A-frame bungalows,
right on the river, provided accommodation perfect for spending a day at
leisure and visiting the bridge and graveyard.
10 November – Kanchanaburi – Samut Songkram –
117 km
An early start made easy cycling as country
lanes followed the Mae Klong River the best part of the morning. Our narrow
path twisted and turned through rural areas and past impressive-looking
temples. Wat Tham Suea, situated on a small hill surrounded by bright green paddy
fields, made a pretty picture. Shortcuts brought us face-to-face with surprised
farmers and equally surprised kids. Even village dogs seemed too overwhelmed to
give chase.
En route to Samut Songkram the Amphawa
floating market made a fascinating detour. The market offered a large variety
of food, and one could nibble on all offered. Finally, we returned
to the bicycles and onto Samut Songkram where the night market was already in full
swing. It’s impressive the amount one can eat when travelling by bike.
11 November - Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 123
km
Samut Songkhram was home to the Maeklong
Railway Market where the warren of stalls spilt over onto the railway line.
As the train approached traders hastily packed up produce and canopies,
allowing the train to pass. Once passed, everything went back into place in
record time and trade continued as if nothing happened.
From our hotel, a ferry took pedestrians
across the river, allowing easy access to country lanes and a scenic route
close to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. The scenic road led past large
salt farms and now and again, information boards provided interesting titbits
on our surroundings. I found it fascinating that roughly 50 different species
of birds from as far afield as Alaska and Siberia flew to these salt pans to
nest and breed. That’s one heck of a long way to fly. Although I kept an eye
out for the spoon-billed sandpiper, I didn’t spot any.
The path was littered with temples and crab
vendors, frequented by city folk on a relaxing day out. Fishing boats were
lying three-deep in rivers, and the smell of dried fish hung heavily in the air
as we cycled past large bamboo drying racks.
Once in Hua Hin, Bird Guesthouse revealed rooms
on stilts over the water and it became our establishment of choice, and a great
place to put your feet up, cold beer in hand.
12 November – Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot Beach -
50 km
A cycle-path led out of Hua Hin, providing leisurely
riding out of town. However, as cycle paths can be a tad predictable, we turned
off and headed to the coast. Our route remained along the coast past Pranburi
Beach. Following a coconut juice stop, the way veered in the direction of Sam
Roy Yod Beach where budget rooms were hidden along a sandy lane.
13 November - Sam Roi Yot Beach - Prachuap
Khiri Khan – 78 km
Early morning a stunning sunrise included fishermen
and women going about their business that provided excellent photo
opportunities. Next, a short and pleasant ride took us to Sam Roi Yot National
Park famous for its cave temple. Next, a boat ride took us around the headland and
after a steep walk up the mountain, we came upon the Phraya Nakon Cave. A hole
in the cave ceiling allowed light to shine onto the temple, making great photo
opportunities.
Then back down the mountain and onto the
bikes from where a picturesque ride took us to Prachuap Khiri Khan. Bunking down
at Maggie's Homestay was interesting for the people. A walk to the night market
provided enough choices to satisfy even the pickiest eaters. Smiling at our
fortune, we sat on the boardwalk railing eating our food, looking out over the
ocean.
14 November - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang
Saphan Beach – 101 km
The road to Bang Saphan ran along the coast, a
relaxed and lovely ride. Scenes of beachside settlements and low-key beach
resorts tucked away behind palm trees, and bougainvillaeas were the order of
the day. Our path twisted and turned through coconut plantations until reaching
our destination at Bang Saphan Beach. Supper at a beachside restaurant sealed
another fabulous cycling day in Thailand.
15–16 November - Bang Saphan Beach – Wua Laen
Beach – 100 km
A beautiful sunrise greeted us, something I
never seem to tire of and after breakfast, Jan and I set out on one more stunning
ride along the coast. The day slipped by as an amble took us south past idyllic
beaches and through rubber tree plantations. The route continued across
numerous rivers where colourful boats lay side by side, ready to go fishing
when the tide came in. Seabeach Bungalows made perfect overnight accommodation,
and soon we plunged into the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. A pleasant
evening was spent enjoying supper in the company of guests from Seabeach
Bungalows. The next day was spent on Wua Laen Beach, unwinding and doing the usual
rest day chores.
17-18 November – Wua Laen Beach – Ranong –
144 km
We waved the Gulf of Thailand goodbye in the
morning and headed over the hills to the Andaman coast. The initial plan was to
overnight in Kraburi, 80 kilometres away. Still, Jan was on fire and aided by
a tailwind, we sped right past Kraburi and onto Ranong. Jan's pace made the
members of a private bicycle tour think we were e-bike assisted!
Once over the central cordillera, the
mountain chain from Tibet through the Malay peninsula (only a few hills), a
quick stop was made at the Kra Isthmus. The Kra Isthmus is the narrowest part
of the Malay Peninsula in southern Thailand and is bordered to the west by the
Andaman Sea and to the east by the Gulf of Thailand. Between the Kra River and the
Bay of Sawi near Chumphon, the narrowest part was a measly 44 kilometres.
The Andaman coast was hillier but beautifully
lush and green. The road passed waterfalls and densely wooded areas
until reaching Ranong, where we bedded down at the well-priced Asia Hotel. Feeling
lazy in the wake of our mega-long ride the previous day, Ranong made an
excellent spot to have a rest day and do the regular rest day chores.
19 November - Ranong – Bang Ben Beach – 59 km
After a leisurely start and breakfast from a
7-Eleven, it was a pleasant surprise to land ourselves on a brand-new bike
path leading out of Ranong. Our first stop was at the grassy hill tourist
attraction, with a temple and steps to the top. So unusual is it in
Thailand to see a grassy hill; it has become a tourist attraction.
Later we continued to Bang Ben Beach, a
settlement 10 kilometres off the road. Again, Wasana Resort made perfect digs.
A leisurely cycle took us to the fishing harbour and a nearby beach. We
returned shortly before dark and the ideal time to settle, cold Chang in hand.
20 November - Bang Ben Beach - Khura Buri –
83 km
Departing sleepy Bang Ben Beach was after a
hearty breakfast, following which we set off anew. A relaxed bike ride led past
large and tropical-looking rivers sporting an abundance of birdlife. Roadside eateries
provided more than enough to eat and drink, and monks and monkeys kept us
entertained en route to Khura Buri. The overcast day made pleasant biking as the
road proceeded south over the hills. In Khura Buri, bungalows at Tararin Resort
consisted of rickety wooden structures on stilts right on the Nang Yon River.
It started raining, and a break was made to the nearest restaurant, and we managed
to get back without getting soaked.
21 November – Khura Buri – Happy House, Khao
Lak – 98 km
The previous night’s rain made a lovely,
fresh morning ride as our path took us over more hills in the direction of Khao
Lak. Once again, passing a multitude of colourful temples and various
interesting markets.
It started drizzling, but our plastic
raincoats soon became too hot and uncomfortable, and better to get wet. Finally,
the rain cleared around midday and turned into a casual ride into touristy
Khao Lak. An abode in a garden setting close to the beach at 400 THB was
considered a bargain in Khao Lak. The sunset was watched from the beach, enjoying
our beer and watching fishermen cast their nets. A simple pavement restaurant
provided an inexpensive but tasty supper.
22 November - Happy House, Khao Lak – Villa
Viking, Patong Beach – 112 km
Sadly, this was our last day of riding to
Phuket. The way to Patong Beach, Phuket, was hilly, no matter which route one
picked. Still, it remained a fascinating ride, past villagers making cigarette
paper from dried palm leaves and mobile carts selling sugarcane juice. The
sugarcane helped churn our way over the last few steep hills to Patong Beach.
It isn’t easy to find budget accommodation in
touristy Patong. Still, we located Villa Viking, a guesthouse offering large,
clean air-con rooms at 600 THB.
By evening a short walk brought us to the
famous or infamous “walking street”- a lively pedestrian street jam-packed with
bars and dance clubs. We’d a few beers staring, slack-jawed, at what was playing
out in front of us.
23 November – Phuket
A bus ride took us over a steep hill to
Phuket town in search of a bike box, found at the second bike shop. Then box
and all, we got back on the bus to Patong Beach.
24–26 November – Patong Beach, Phuket
Too soon, the time came for Jan to catch a
taxi to the airport, ending our ride from Bangkok to Phuket.
Au revoir, my friend.
