166 THAILAND - A RIDE ALONG THE SOUTH COAST

Pedals, Panniers, and Poor Dietary Decisions

166 THAILAND

A Slightly Sweaty Tour of Thailand’s South Coast
20 February – 26 February 2023
358 Kilometres - 6 Days

PHOTOS 

 

 

Pattaya to Rayong (78 km)

This was Take Two of my great adventure—proof that the road always gets a second chance, even if it’s not leading to India this time. At a respectable hour just before noon (cyclists laugh at mornings), I rolled out of Pattaya, panniers packed, optimism high, and expectations firmly lowered.

The route whisked me through serene rural roads lined with cassava plantations and the occasional elephant casually minding its own business. Temples and Buddhas appeared like friendly checkpoints, silently judging my cadence. The climb over Big Buddha Mountain was worth every laboured breath, delivering views so good I almost forgot my legs were filing a complaint.

Rayong welcomed me with a glowing sunset and the Richy Grand, ideally positioned near a night market designed to punish anyone foolish enough to arrive hungry. Lesson noted. Too late.

 

Rayong to Pak Nam Krasae (70 km)

I set off around ten, which by touring standards counts as “keen.” The small roads delivered everything I love about Thailand: smiling locals, colourful houses, and food vendors operating from motorbikes that appeared to violate several laws of physics—BBQs inches away from petrol tanks included.

Reaching the coast felt like unlocking a bonus level. A dedicated bike lane, a breezy tailwind, and the realisation that cycling can, in fact, be pleasant. A Hungarian gentleman—who had sensibly settled here forty years ago—invited me in for a cold drink. Hospitality: undefeated.

Pak Nam Krasae was one of those beautiful places where English mysteriously disappears. With hand gestures, smiles, and my now-reliable Thai food vocabulary, I secured a comfy room and a full belly. Laundry done too. Peak efficiency.

 

Pak Nam Krasae to Chanthaburi (75 km)

After twenty kilometres, I made my daily pilgrimage to 7‑Eleven, proof that all spiritual journeys now end in plastic-wrapped snacks. Refuelled, I followed the coast along glorious cycle lanes and scenery that felt almost unfairly photogenic.

Chanthaburi’s old riverside quarter was perfect for slow wandering, street food grazing, and pretending I wasn’t on a bike trip with kilometres still to ride.

 

Chanthaburi to Roadside Guesthouse (65 km)

I briefly considered staying an extra day in Chanthaburi—a sure sign I was enjoying myself too much. Instead, discipline prevailed, and I turned back toward Jomtien.

A roadside guesthouse appeared just as my motivation dipped, offering a room for 300 THB. Destiny. Dinner was a heroic plate of fried noodles costing 40 THB and weighing approximately the same as my bike. Even I couldn’t finish it, which historians will note as a rare personal defeat.

 

 Roadside Guesthouse to Rayong (75 km)

New routes, countless side roads, and just enough confusion to make the day feel adventurous. The South Coast unfolded as flat, watery landscapes dotted with fishing boats and lazy estuaries.

Back in Rayong, I returned to the dependable Richy Grand—cheap, bike-friendly, and conveniently close to the kind of night market that demands second dinners.

 

Rayong to Jomtien (70 km)

I zig-zagged through farm roads, feeling oddly local and significantly too confident. I skipped stops. This was a mistake. Home arrived just as hunger reached cinematic levels.

Laundry, shower, and collapse followed. Arms complained but ultimately admitted they had survived. The Tour d’South was complete, and optimism for the next adventure remained dangerously high.

 

Epilogue: 

The following days were devoted to sorting photos (an activity that somehow eats entire mornings), collecting apartment keys, and conducting vital social research over beers. Physical activity resumed with an 8‑km beach run and a daily swim—proof that suffering is optional but routine.

Final verdict:

Thailand’s South Coast delivers scenery, kindness, affordability, and just enough unpredictability to keep things interesting. Would I do it again? Absolutely. Would I eat before night markets next time? Probably not.

165 A DISASTROUS 2022

RECOVERY THAILAND
July 2022 – January 2023

 PHOTOS

 

9 July – Jomtien

Bouncing out of bed on a heavily overcast morning had nothing to do with my agility but rather the sing-along music playing. Music that made a person want to punch the air, exclaiming, “let’s go, baby”! Thus, Dire Straits was still blaring in my ears as I set off to the beach at a brisk pace. Unfortunately, the euphoria was short-lived, as I’d become rather unfit during the past six weeks. Having no running shoes, my old sandals had to do, and running in sandals isn’t all comfortable. Still, it was a pleasant walk, and the threatening rain never materialised. People were surprised to see me back in Jomtien, but so was I.  Returning, I picked up a bunch of bananas from my favourite fruit lady before heading into town to hunt for running shoes. Unfortunately, I scarcely made it to Beach Road before a storm broke. The weather came down with such force that it brought trees and electric poles down. The 7-eleven made an excellent place to hide from where a cab took me home—no point shopping in such weather.

 

10 July – Jomtien

Mundane tasks in a house or apartment take up much time. May it be sweeping, dusting, making a bed or doing dishes. These are actions not required when cycling. What a complete waste of time, as these jobs are never-ending. Thus, none of the above got done, and I lazily made coffee - left the mug on the coffee table and showered without picking up the towel. Instead, I listened to peaceful Reiki music said to increase positive energy. It was wonderfully relaxing, but still, no housework got done.

With my energy restored, I ventured to the mall, searching for new running/hiking shoes. Of course, it’s never an easy task finding such a combination. Still, I located a pair of trail running Hoka’s primarily designed for technical running and hoped they would be suitable for running.

 

11 July – Jomtien

By morning I keenly set out to test the new shoes. But, unfortunately, couldn’t say they were super comfortable as they were too narrow around the toe area. It’s so much easier to stick to shoes you know. Still, it wasn’t the end of the world, and I cut holes where the pressure points were.

Once home, it was back to finalising the last of the Malawian blog, as the longer I left it, the less I felt like doing it.

 

12 July – Jomtien

Early morning, I again set out for a jog. Being the rainy season, there weren’t many people on the beach. The umbrellas and chairs looked forlorn in the breeze, but still, stall owners were optimistic and put out tables, shrines and coconuts. The gentle breeze was a blessing as the weather remained hot and humid even though overcast.

Feeling surprisingly energetic, I pumped the bicycle tires and cautiously tested riding. Yes, it can be done, but it’s far from comfortable.

 

13 July

With nothing planned for the day, I cycled to the Lotus to test cycling and pick up a few things needed from the supermarket. Unfortunately, the hand remains uncomfortable, and I can’t see myself cycling any distance for a while.

Being Asalha Bucha day, a public holiday in Thailand, the streets and mall were quiet. This day, the first full moon of the eighth lunar month, commemorates the Buddha’s first sermon in Deer Park in Benares, India and the founding of the Buddhist sangha (monkhood) about 2,500 years ago. (The date in Thailand is thus 13 July 2565 BE)

In the sermon, known as ‘Setting the Wheel of Dhamma in Motion’, the Buddha first spelt out the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path.

 

July 2022 - February 2023

Eventually, my wrist healed, although it would never be 100%. But, at least I could cycle relatively easily using a wrist brace.

In the meantime, I had word from Dawn and was excited to learn she was planning on visiting Thailand. A fantastic month was spent eating, drinking, and doing other fun stuff. It was good to see my friend again.

After a month, Dawn returned to Australia, and I was excited to return to India. The Indian visa is an uncomplicated process, but the two wheel rims ordered took forever to arrive. Eventually, it took going to Bangkok myself, something that should’ve been done months ago, instead of waiting until the last minute. Finally, all was in place to leave for India. Sadly, while cycling back from the beach after taking a few sunset pictures, a scooter knocked me off the bicycle, resulting in two broken elbows.

To make a long story short, a week later, in early November 2022, I flew to South Africa. As can be imagined, I was mighty relieved to get off the chock-a-block plane. A visit to the hospital revealed what was already known. As in Thailand, doctors seemed more concerned about the fractured radial head, which I thought was my good arm. A CT scan was booked for 15 November (it’s a government hospital). Only after the scan will a decision be made. Both arms were again placed in a half cast (back slab), and there, I thought I could sneak in a short jog. Unfortunately, it seems walking was my only option for a while.

All went smoothly, and I was mighty impressed with the medical service received. The dislocated elbow was realigned, and a metal plate and screws were fitted to hold the fractured olecranon together. The radial head couldn’t be repaired and was replaced with a metal piece. Finally, the ligaments around the elbow were repaired and reattached using a screw.

Phew, happy that’s behind me! I’m even more impressed that I’ve regained almost full motion and rotation barely six weeks after the operation. And to think all at US$30.00. Finally, my bags were packed, and I was ready to return to the tropics and my bike. Although I stayed with my sister, it remained less expensive in Thailand. Thanks, Amanda!

I hope 2023 will be kinder to me. Back in Thailand, cycling remained, nonetheless, highly uncomfortable, but changing the bike’s setup made it easier to ride the bike.