009 CYCLE TOURING CYPRUS

 

CYPRUS

120 Km – 8 Days

14 September – 22 September 2007

MAP

PHOTOS

 

14 September – Girne, Cyprus

I left the Baltic cycle group as they headed to the Greek side of the island. Vidmantas, a friend of Sigitas (leader of Baltic Cycles), offered me his house as he was away for the weekend. Staying in Girne while having his home all to myself was thus a no-brainer.

Cyprus, officially called the Republic of Cyprus, is situated in the Mediterranean Sea. It’s the third-largest island in the Mediterranean and a popular tourist destination. The Republic of Cyprus claims to be the entire island’s legitimate government, with Nicosia the country’s capital and biggest city.

In reality, Cyprus is divided into two main parts. The area under the control of the Republic, is in the south and west and comprises about 59% of the island. The north, administered by the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, covers about 36%. The remaining 4% forms a UN buffer zone. The international community considers the island’s northern part (occupied by Turkish forces) illegal under international law.

I stayed on the Turkish side as obtaining a visa to enter Greece was practically impossible.

 

15 September – Girne (Turkish) Kyrenia (Greek)

While in Girne, my time was spent enquiring about a Syrian visa. Sadly, the Embassy was on the Southern side of the island and, hence, the Greek side, a no-go area to me. No one in Girne appeared able to help, and instead, I’d a leg wax and pedicure. Things would sure sort themselves out.

 

16-17 September – Girne

While having the luxury of a room, I explored the coast around Girne by bicycle. Cyprus was immensely mountainous and barren, but the shoreline was lovely and dotted by many fantastic beaches. Regrettably, many new developments spoiled the rural feel, but there’s no stopping development. These developments further endangered the nesting places of the sea turtles, which have been breeding along the Cyprus coast for centuries.

An additional day was spent in Girne to contact the Syrian Embassy. Vidmantes offered to get the correct telephone number, but still, no answers were received. I decided to leave it and try my luck at the Syrian border.

 

18 September - Girne – Kaplica – 60 kilometres

The next day I thanked Vidmantes and cycled out of Girne in the direction of Famagusta. An idyllic spot on the beach featuring a bar and restaurant got my attention. I considered it a good enough place and pitched the tent. Being September, it was getting to the end of the summer season, and only a few super pale Brits in their Union Jack swimsuits remained.

 

19 September - Kaplica – Famagusta – 60 kilometres

The following morning, I abandoned my little paradise. Instead, I biked over the mountain (nothing like a mountain pass first thing in the morning). Even though there were campsites outside Famagusta, a hotel close to the harbour was an excellent place to park off. The ferry to Mersin departed at 8h30 in the morning and the ticket office opened at 7h00.

Famagusta turned out fascinating as it was from here Silk Road merchants transported goods to Western Europe. The historic centre is still surrounded by walls built by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries. Hours were spent wandering its ancient ruins and the streets of the old walled city. Unfortunately, I was severely bitten by mosquitos (I think) and had itchy bites all over my face, arms, and legs. Irritated by the itching, I returned to my abode.

 

20 September – Famagusta, Cyprus - Mersin (Mainland Turkey) - By Ferry

Early morning, I loaded the bike and pedalled off to the harbour only to find the ferry at 8h30 pm and not in the morning, as stated in the email. It was easy to spend a day in Famagusta, wandering its Salamis Ruins dating to the 11th Century BC. There’s still an amazing amount intact after destruction by enemies and several earthquakes. Then, off to the harbour where I met 2 Nepali guys biking around the world. I later wondered whether they were, indeed, cycling or merely using public transport to score free accommodation and food.

 

21 September - Mersin – Atakia - By Bus

The ferry came as a shock as it could only be described as a rust bucket. I doubted its capability of reaching the mainland but at least it had seats where one could sit and sleep. The trip didn’t take 9 hours as the ticket stated (not surprising, taking the state it was in), and we only slinked into Mersin the next morning at 9h00. En route, we’d our fair amount of drama as a man fell overboard and (rust bucket or not) the ferry promptly spun around and picked him up. Not an easy task in the dark, hats off to the captain!

The two Nepali guys were also heading towards Syria. Once in Mersin, we decided to take a bus to Atakia, situated on the Turkey/Syrian border. If impossible to get a Syrian visa at the border, I wanted enough time to remain on my Turkish visa to make alternative arrangements. In Atakia we located excellent digs at Sister Barbara’s where we stayed the night. After waking to one of the Napoli guys fondling my breast, I yelled at him, took my stuff, and moved to a bed in another dormitory where one could lock the door. The little bastard!

The following day, I packed up and cycled to the Syrian border and luckily never encountered the Nepalese guys again.

 

22 September – Atakia, Turkey – Aleppo, Syria – 110 kilometres

I arrived at the Syrian border apprehensively and met four motorbike riders travelling overland to South Africa. They introduced me to Ahmed, a tour guide, helping them obtain Syrian visas. Ahmed was incredibly accommodating and helped fill in the forms and then disappeared. Three hours later, I’d my visa and was on my way to Aleppo, Syria. Sometimes I couldn’t believe my luck and realised I was extremely fortunate to have met the motorbike riders as well as Ahmed.

My first thought cycling into Syria was, “What’ve I let myself into”. Syria was an entirely different world, different culture, foreign language, alien landscape, food, and housing. Not only was it a conservative Muslim and desert country but one of the oldest inhabited regions in the world. Archaeological finds indicated human habitation dated back 700,000 years.

Still, little remained to be seen along the way except for cotton fields and typical Syrian communities consisting of a mosque, a market, and a few modest courtyard homes. Traditionally these homes appear modest from the outside but could be quite lavished internally. These homes further offered total privacy as well as a communal family area, often with a water feature or even a pool. I was so impressed by this type of architecture that I swore if ever I get the opportunity to build a home, it will be a courtyard-style home.