Cycle Touring Laos
(9) 2024
13 September – 2
October 2024
964 Kilometres – 19
Days
13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand –
Vientiane, Laos – 29 km
As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry
to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse.
Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where
checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed
a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead
of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s
the immigration office.
Pissed off, I cycled into the city, and with the result, almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled
to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood.
Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and
some not.
14 September – Vientiane
I woke to a drizzle, a drizzle which
continued throughout the day. Later, I grabbed the umbrella and searched for a
lens cap for my camera, which I lost the day before. It just wasn’t my day. I
also wanted to get another mirror for the bicycle as I was in a country that
drove on the opposite side of the road to Thailand. These two simple tasks kept
me busy almost the entire day. In the process, I strolled past some of the
oldest temples in Laos and numerous eateries, all offering traditional Lao food
as well as international cuisine. Still, mostly, there was the ever-present
baguette, which I enjoyed.
14 September – Vientiane – Pak Ngum – Dokphet Hotel. – 78 km
I woke to a bright, sunny Sunday
morning and hurriedly packed up. My urgent departure was twofold: I wanted to
get underway before more rain set in and before Vientiane woke up. Seeing I was
early, I decided to swing by Buddha Park, situated just outside town on the
banks of the Mekong River. The previous time I went there, it was along a
terribly potholed dirt road, and I wasn’t sure I could get there, taking the
rain of the past few days.
I was, therefore, surprised to find a
new paved road and was grinning from ear to ear. Soon, however, I noticed the
flooding, and most structures between the road and the river were already
underwater. Thus, it was no surprise to find Buddha Park nearly completely
submerged. Still, I continued along the new road, even though I was unsure if
it would lead me to Route 13, the main road south to Cambodia. I sure hoped so,
as I didn’t want to land on a muddy dirt track.
You may wonder why I didn’t just ask
the people if the road to Route 13 was paved. I did try a few times, but they
just smiled politely. The signs of flooding increased, and I noticed that the
Military was called in to try and stem the flood waters by packing sandbags
along the road. Still, the road was flooded in places, but I could get through.
Eventually, I was delighted to find that the road spat me out on Route 13. My
delight was short-lived as it was in such poor condition that it was downright
dangerous. Not only is it a busy, narrow road, jampacked with busses, trucks,
and cars, but the road has fallen in disrepair and now sports potholes the size
of small cars. I kid you not! Luckily, I caught up with a “two-wheel tractor,”
for lack of a better word, and sat in his slipstream for a few kilometres until
he turned off.
The ride was stressful, and there was
no time to enjoy the scenery, so when I spotted the Dokphet Hotel, I pulled in
even though it was only 15h30. I needed to get my head around this road. The
room was cheap as chips at 150,000 LAK (Lao kip) or $6.75. It is large and
clean, and the complex is situated in a large, lush garden. With a restaurant
just outside the complex, it was a real bargain. I felt that I would deal with
the dreaded Route 13 the next day.
16 September - Pak Ngum, Dokphet Hotel
– Paksan, BK Guesthouse – 86 km
I set out anew and was ready to tackle
that horrid road. A massive storm came in during the night, which meant the
potholes were filled with water and branches were strewn all over the road. It
was a complete nightmare as I waded through the water, not knowing if large
potholes were waiting to swallow me. In these flooded areas, it was better to
wait and watch the cars and motorbikes to determine the best route to take. You
can just imagine my delight when 10 kilometres down the drag, I reached a
brand-new road. Hallelujah! I've never loved a road as much as that one! From
then on, biking was easy, and I could enjoy the quintessential Laos scenery of
farmlands (now flooded) with misty mountains in the distance.
Most rural people could be seen in the
flooded areas, fishing net in hand and calling, “Sabai-dee, felang!” (Hello,
foreigner!) on spotting me. The Laotians are gentle and very kind. Thus, there was
no chance of a quick water stop as it usually comes with a photo shoot of the
children. Even the shy ones will come closer. Too cute.
On reaching Paxan, I investigated a
guesthouse indicated on the map. Again, the lady was super friendly. The little
bungalow cost a mere 100,000 LAK (US$4.50) and came with air conditioning and a
hot water shower (not that I needed a hot shower). Considering it a bargain, I
stayed put.
17 September - Paksan, BK Guesthouse –
Vieng Kham, Khamphone Keokhamphan Guest House - 90 km
On a beautiful, overcast morning, I
set out to enjoy the mild weather. The road was in good condition, although the
shoulder was, at times, pretty narrow. Still, it was easy cycling, and I
enjoyed the scenery. I was again amazed at how easily the country folk adapted
to the flooding. Each household had a boat, and even the youngest child could
row.
I'm used to cycling through these
villages, with a few young ones giving chase on their bicycles until a
flip-flop or pedal comes off. I find it amusing that, nowadays, they give chase
on an electric scooter! How times are changing.
I reached Vieng Kham around midday,
and although early, I stayed the night. The room was even cheaper, at 80,000 LAK,
but by far, it was not as nice as the previous night.
18-19 September – Vieng Kham – Thakhek
-104 km
I had an incredibly restless night. I
had just settled into bed around midnight when I was startled awake by an
unexpected knock on the door at 1 a.m. It turned out to be a mistaken visit,
but the adrenaline rush kept me wide awake. Unable to fall back asleep, I
whiled away the early hours watching YouTube until I finally managed to turn
off the lights at 3 a.m. My attempts to rest were further thwarted as I found
myself awake before 6 a.m., lying in bed and listening to the relentless
drumming of heavy rain outside. The downpour finally relented around 9 a.m.,
and I got underway.
By 10 a.m., I was drenched in sweat,
labouring up the little inclines. After covering about 50 kilometres, it dawned
on me that I desperately needed to stop and refuel, having had very little
sleep and no breakfast. If I wanted to reach Thakhek, sustenance was a must.
Following an omelette on rice at a local restaurant, the weather took a turn,
and I encountered road construction with ominous clouds looming in the
distance. Thankfully, the roadwork concluded after five kilometres, and the
threatening clouds dissipated.
It was a stunning journey, with the
magnificent Annamite Range always gracing my left side. Stretching across
approximately 1,100 kilometres through Laos, Vietnam, and a small region in
northeast Cambodia, the range offered a breath-taking display of typical
Vietnamese scenery.
I rolled into the riverside town of
Thakhek at around 5 p.m., secured an affordable room at the Mekong Hotel, and
settled into a family room on the ground floor. Famished, I dined at the
hotel's outdoor restaurant, savouring the view of the swift-flowing Mekong
River and the sparkling city lights of Thailand.
20 September – Thakhek – Roadside
Guesthouse – 75 km
I didn’t get underway until almost
eleven, as it had rained nonstop since early evening the previous day.
Eventually, I cycled out of Thakhek, and my decision to take the river road was
clearly wrong. With all the rain, the road was one muddy, potholed mess, which
slowed the ride to five kilometres in 30 minutes. Needless to say, it was
frustrating, not to mention exhausting. There wasn’t anything one could do so I
pushed on as best I could. It’s only 120 kilometres to Savannakhet, but after
75 kilometres and spotting a guesthouse, I called it a day as rain once more
set in.
The lady charged me 100,000 LAK for
the room, and I surmised I was overcharged. I guess she looked at this
mud-covered person and thought that cleaning the room would be a whole day's
affair. I wasn’t going to argue, as any room at $4.50 is a bargain. The only
drawback was that the area was somewhat remote, and no food vendors were
nearby. Thus, I hauled out the instant noodles I kept for such situations and went
to bed early.
September 20 -21 - Roadside guesthouse
- Savannakhet – 45km
I wasn't full of energy when I left my
roadside accommodation, but luckily the road conditions improved. They weren't
perfect, but they were better than the previous day.
I arrived in Savannakhet early, which
gave me enough time to look for a few items I might need further south. There
seemed to be few shopping facilities in the 460 kilometres between Savannakhet
and Stung Treng in Cambodia, so it was best to stock up.
There's not much to do in Savannakhet,
but I quite liked its collection of decaying French colonial buildings.
However, at sunset, the town came alive with food stalls along the riverfront,
and it was hard to believe it was the same place. I considered staying another
day as I never got a chance to clean my muddy cycling gear or bicycle, and with
a 30-day visa, there was no need to rush anywhere.
Between 1964 and 1973, the USA
conducted one of the largest sustained aerial bombardments in history, flying
580,344 missions over Laos and dropping two million tonnes of bombs, costing
US$2.2 million a day. Around 30% of the bombs dropped on Laos failed to
detonate, leaving the country littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). For
people all over eastern Laos (the most contaminated provinces being Xieng
Khuang, Salavan, and Savannakhet), living with this appalling legacy has become
an intrinsic part of daily life.
Hence, I stayed on the well-trodden
path. I know it didn’t look like it, but at least I was on a road of sorts. I
downloaded the book "The Ravens: The True Story Of A Secret War In
Laos" and I guessed it was going to be a late night for me. I decided to do
my laundry the next day. LOL.
The following day it rained nonstop,
and I did little else but read and eat. I quite liked that. By late afternoon,
the rain subsided and I walked out in search of more food.
23 September – Savannakhet – roadside
accommodation – 107 km
Well-fed I biked out of Savannakhet
despite the weather app predicting rain and thunderstorms. Luckily, the bad
weather never materialised, and I enjoyed a pleasant overcast ride.
It was evident that it was the rainy
season as I passed roadside stalls selling bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and lotus
seeds. I also saw women walking their water buffalo to greener pastures and
villagers fishing in the rice paddies, creating a typical Laos scene. Watching
children play soccer among the cattle reminded me of Africa.
Around four o’clock, I spotted a
guesthouse and called it a day. Since it was a roadside guesthouse, there
wasn't a restaurant nearby. However, the person managing the guesthouse kindly
went on his motorbike to get me a meal. It was quite interesting, to say the
least. LOL. At least it came with a generous portion of rice, which would
suffice until I found something in the morning.
24 September – Ying Luck Guest House -
Bounmyxay Hotel – 74 km
I pedalled out of my overnight
accommodation on a wet and overcast morning. Despite the weather, I felt happy
to be on a bicycle with no particular destination in mind. It is such a
privilege. I smiled at the typical scenes of Laos with cattle and herds of
goats blocking the road. However, that came to an abrupt end when I encountered
the dreadful potholes, causing traffic to move at a snail's pace. I think I
found it easier to navigate on a bicycle. Nevertheless, I was amazed at the
motorbike salespeople selling almost anything imaginable from a bike.
Realising that I hadn't had breakfast,
I stopped for a bite to eat, which turned out to be an interesting affair, to
say the least. At times, I felt it was more interesting for the staff than for
me, as they hardly took their eyes off me. I must have made quite a sight.
With a full belly, I continued my
journey, passing by raging rivers, luminous green rice fields, and the
ever-present ornate temples until I spotted a hotel. Although it was still
early, I decided to stop for the day to avoid getting caught in the afternoon
storms. And because I did that, it never rained.
25-27 September - Bounmyxay Hotel –
Pakse 64 km
When I woke, the nightly storm had passed,
and I headed out into a wonderfully fresh morning, which made me smile.
Energetic children greeted me with "Sabai-dee!" from their stilted
homes.
The road was peppered with roadside
markets selling bamboo shoots, freshly picked mushrooms, eels, and skewered
grilled frogs and snails. Aided by a slight tailwind, I arrived in Pakse early
and had plenty of time to find a place to stay. I think I found the best place
in town. Kaemse Guest House is right on the Ex Don River, just before it flows
into the Mekong, and at US$6 per night, I paid for two nights. At sunset, I
sauntered along the bank of the Mekong and found the riverfront festive with
the usual kiddie's carnival and food vendors.
I shouldn't have said the guesthouse
is the best in town, as the room needed a serious scrubbing. So, I walked to
the local convenience store and bought a bathroom cleaner and a can of insect
repellent. LOL. Gosh, I sure stay in some weird places.
Seeing that I had paid for two nights,
I slept in as I could feel a cold coming on and spent most of the day
organising my photos, which were in quite a mess by then.
28 – 29 Pakse – Muang
Champassak – 45 km
The journey to Champassak was
relatively short, only 35 kilometres. I stopped in Champassak to visit the
UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou. Although the ride was short, it was
enjoyable, and the guesthouse I chose was so charming that I decided to stay
for two nights. Instead of heading straight to the ruins, I cycled the Rice
Field Trail, which seemed quite pleasant. Everything was going well for about five
kilometres until the path turned into a clay pit, and I decided to turn back.
Luckily, the guesthouse had a garden hose where I could wash off most of the
clay. What a mess!
The next day, I cycled 10 kilometres
to explore the remains of the ancient city, an excursion that kept me occupied
the entire morning. I especially enjoyed climbing the hill to reach the highest
level, where I was rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic view of the fields
below. It's truly remarkable what they constructed on such a steep slope.
About a kilometre south lay the ruins
of Prasat Hong Nang Sida, and I decided to head in that direction. As I made my
way, I was accompanied by a lively seven-year-old girl who acted as my
impromptu tour guide. She chattered animatedly in Lao throughout our walk, and
although I couldn't understand her words, her enthusiasm and gestures indicated
she was giving me historical information. Upon reaching the temple, which was
being renovated, she sweetly took my hand, seemingly to ensure safety as we
navigated the area. On our way back, she skipped ahead and picked us each a
lotus leaf to shield us from the sun. How cute is that?
30 September - Muang Champassak – Do
Khong island – 112 km
I started my day early, taking
advantage of the dry weather. However, the day turned out to be slower than
expected. I first had to cross the Mekong River by cycling to the Temple, from
where wooden boats ferried passengers across the river. I was initially worried
about getting my bicycle and bags onto the small boat, but after seeing them
load motorbikes, I felt more at ease. We crossed the river without any issues.
Once on the main road, I enjoyed the
beautiful scenery, despite feeling a bit under the weather. I observed young
boys fearlessly jumping off a high bridge and also stopped at a roadside store
for a noodle soup lunch, where I sat under strings of drying meat. Dark clouds
appeared, and I anticipated getting caught in a storm. Shortly after, I heard a
loud clap of thunder and sought shelter in an abandoned structure.
Upon reaching the ferry port to Si
Phan Don, or the Four Thousand Islands, I was informed that there were no boats
available. Unsure if it was due to the river being in flood, I found a bridge a
few kilometres further south. Si Phan Don is a riverine archipelago in the
Mekong River in southern Laos, known for its numerous islands and beautiful
landscape. I decided to stay an extra day to update my journal, do the usual
housekeeping and spend my remaining Lao kip before crossing the border, as it’s
a currency that’s pretty useless anywhere else.
