NAMIBIA (2) – Part 2
1 490 Kilometres - 21 Days
23
March – Windhoek – Okahandja – 72 km
Following
a leisurely start, Linda and I cycled out of Windhoek. Our first day of riding
was a pleasant affair as it felt downhill, and a slight tailwind assisted us.
Most of the way was along a highway sporting a wide shoulder and thus easy
riding.
This
northern part of Namibia seemed lusher and greener than further south. As a
result, we encountered more traffic as well as villages. However, the most
surprising was the enormous termite mounds and the massive mushrooms along the
side of the road. Known as Omajowa, these mushrooms grow at the base of termite
mounds in Namibia’s central and northern parts.
Even
more fascinating is the tops of the termite mounds all seem to point north. Almost
everyone, it seems, has a theory of why the mounds indicate north. “Prevailing
winds” is a popular one. “Magnetic fields” is another. Still, just how these
mounds point so insistently to the north remains unclear.
Our
overnight accommodation was at a campsite in comfortable and reasonably priced
bungalows. Good thing too, as the north wind picked up, resulting in rain showers,
and we were happy we didn’t opt to camp.
24
March – Okahandja – Wewelsburg Camping – 92 km
The
cold and rainy weather came as a surprise and made riding to Wewelsburg camping
miserable. Unfortunately, my skimpy clothes were ill-suited for this weather,
and with teeth chattering we sped down the road, hardly stopping. If it weren’t
for my sister, who threw in a 20-year-old rain jacket, I would’ve frozen my
non-existing backside off.
Our
urgent pace made for an early arrival in Wewelsburg, where we found a lovely
farm campsite sporting a massive dog, peacocks, goats, and cattle. The owners
fired up the “donkey”, providing a hot shower. Amanda and I chose the old bus,
and Linda preferred to pitch her tent, a wise decision. Due to the freezing
weather, we all turned in early.
25/26
March – Wewelsburg camping – Otjiwarongo – 90 km
We
woke to thick fog but, on leaving, the visibility improved and the weather a
great deal better than the previous day. Still, I was cold as my clothes were still
wet.
The
ride was unremarkable and the landscape unchanged as we edged closer to the
Caprivi. Our sole excitement was spotting more gigantic mushrooms and a traffic
officer who stopped to hand us high visibility belts. How very kind of him.
On
reaching Otjiwarongo, Amanda had already located a self-catering guesthouse at
a fraction of the price other, more popular, places charged. Thanks, Amanda,
you’re a star!
Seeing
it was only Linda’s third day (two were long ones), Otjiwarongo made for a day of
rest. We did little apart from shop for food and beer and lazed about in our
lovely guesthouse.
27
March – Otjiwarongo – Otavi – 123 km
The
stretch north of Otjiwarongo is a long and lonely road. Truly little happened
during the day but, strangely enough, the ride was lovely and relaxed, in
perfect cycling weather. I love days like this when the way stretches miles
ahead, and one gets into a comfortable rhythm with only the sound of your
wheels on the tarmac.
My
friend handled the distance easily, and we ambled along until reaching Otavi,
where Amanda found a room at a rest camp sporting a tiny swimming pool. We sat
around the pool, feet dangling in the cool water while sipping a cold Windhoek draught.
A perfect end to a good day of cycling.
28/29
March – Otavi – Tsumeb – 65 km
A
stiff breeze slowed our pace. Fortunately, riding was easy. The scenery was
considerably different from the previous days, and it appeared the more north
we ventured, the lusher and greener the landscape.
Our
short distance made for an early arrival in Tsumeb, which I’ve heard of
numerous times but never visited. Amanda again found inexpensive digs, and I’ll
miss her when she returns home on Wednesday.
Our
main reason for parking off at Tsumeb was to explore the Etosha National Park.
Linda arranged a day tour while Amanda and I did a self-drive through the park
as it was more economical. I was happy I had this option as Ethosa is a
mind-blowing experience. I was in awe of all I saw as the summer rains brought
abundant food and water. I never expected to see such a large amount and
variety of wildlife. I consequently had a permanent grin as we drove and snapped
gazillion pictures.
30
March -Tsumeb – Grootfontein (via Hoba Meteorite) – 111 km
We
waved Amanda goodbye and slowly gathered our belongings, wondering if all would
fit into our panniers. Mercifully, riding was effortless, and we arrived at the
turn-off to Grootfontein early. I opted to investigate the Hoba meteorite and
Linda headed into town. The Hoba meteorite (although not spectacular) is the
largest single meteorite globally and weighs 60 tonnes; quite a weight for such
a small stone! It’s estimated the meteorite landed on this globe about 80 000
million years ago. Being the sole person there, I sat staring at it, eating my
jelly sweets and wondered what people made of it 80 million years ago!
On
my return, I found Linda uncovered lovely overnight accommodation. I didn’t
believe my share of the rate was a mere 200 N$. Thanks, Linda. I know you
sponsored me! Later, our host served gin and tonic; we couldn’t believe our
luck. How kind of him. Our evening meal at the Kitchen Cafe was equally
delicious. We sat in their garden until late, chatting and discussing where to
go in the morning.
31
March - Grootfontein – Roy’s Camp – 60 km
Our
leisurely departure was due to the short distance. The way north was uneventful
but made for effortless riding and the kilometres flew by. As a result we
reached Roy’s Camp early. The camp offered easy camping, a bar and a
restaurant. The short four-kilometre bush walk was enjoyable even though we saw
no animals. By evening, the staff lit a fire, and we sat drinking wine and
chatting with other campers.
1
April – Roy’s Camp – Mururani Camp – 72 km
“Come
have a look”, Linda whispered, pointing towards the tiny dik-diks in camp. They
were no more than 30-40 centimetres high and couldn’t weigh much more than 3 or
4 kilograms—a great way to greet the day.
Again,
leaving was past nine as the distance to Mururani Camp was a comfortable 70 kilometres.
The slight headwind was a blessing in disguise as it kept us cool and kept the
flies at bay. Still, butterflies abounded.
Mururani
Camp had a shop on the main road providing cheap beers and snacks. Camping was a
laidback affair on a lush lawn and offered the benefit of a large lapa to cook
and hang out the rest of the afternoon.
2/3
April - Mururani Rest Camp – Rundu – 137 km
It
was a long ride to Rundu, but we stuck to the task at hand. Once in Rundu I
opted for the Backpackers and Linda for a slightly more upmarket guesthouse.
4
April – Rundu – Mukuku Rest Camp – 77 km
Seeing
most shops are closed on a Sunday in Namibia, not a great deal got done, and I,
therefore, proceeded to the shop first thing Monday morning. Unfortunately,
Linda also had trouble drawing money. It was almost 11 o’clock before we made our
way through the potholes and muddy puddles out of Rundu.
Not
a considerable amount happened during the day. Still, riding through a rural
area where traditional huts abounded was pleasant. It’s an area where people
live simple lives; kids walk to schools consisting of no more than tin shacks.
At
Mukuku Rest Camp, we chatted to the owner, who offered to take us on a boat
ride along the Okovango River. What an immense privilege to experience this
river at sunset as the many birds settled in the treetops.
5
April - Mukuku Rest Camp – Camp Ndurukoro – 111 km
Linda
and I thanked Hans, the owner, and walked our bikes along the sandy path to the
dirt road. At least the dirt road was in good condition and made reaching the
paved road easy.
6
April - Camp Ndurukoro – Rainbow River Lodge - 65 km
Although
our friendly hosts at the Ndurukoro Camp said they would phone their friends at
Shametu to tell them we were on our way, Linda wanted to stay at Rainbow River
Lodge as she believed it had a view of the Popa Falls. After pushing our bikes
along the sandy approach road, we uncovered a campsite on the river with no
view of the falls.
7
April – Rainbow River Lodge – Omega Police Station – 85 km
It
took time to walk our bikes back to the main road from where the going was
considerably more manageable. Our first stop was at the supermarket to stock up
on food before getting underway towards the Botswana border, still, a few days
riding away.
8
April - Omega Police Station – Kongola – 139 km
We
thanked the friendly police officers and resumed our quest in the presence of the
kids walking to school. It’s astounding how far these little kids walk. Most
schools were basic setups under trees with only a tin shack or two.
Once
again, the day turned out a long, slow slog along the main road. Little
happened except the familiar sight of small groups of traditional huts and
women collecting wood. We were still cycling through the Bwabwata National Park.
Although a multi-use area, we were lucky to see two elephants, albeit far in
the distance. Linda chose a more upmarket guesthouse, whereas I chose a local
joint at a mere 150 N$. In typical African style, the room was as basic as anticipated,
but the friendliness was unbeatable.
9
April – Kongola – Ivory Camp – 35km
By
morning, Linda decided this was enough long and lonely stretches and opted for
an excursion along the Kwando River. I needed to draw money and top up my
internet and thus had to wait until the single shop in the village opened.
Things move slowly in Africa. On cycling out of the village, the sign to Camp
Kwando made me realise I was at the turnoff to my friend’s lodge where I was
invited to overnight. So I made a U-turn and headed in the direction of Ivory
Camp.
At
camp, I was surprised the units were right on the Kwando River and that the
area formed part of a hunting concession. Hippos wandered around at leisure and
I was advised to put the bike inside. Koen, the manager, was super friendly,
and as I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness, I took a taxi into town
to buy food and beer. What a fantastic experience. The trip took almost the
rest of the day as the driver stopped at each person, enquiring about their
well-being and whether they needed a ride. In the village, each one got dropped
off and collected later.
By
the time I returned to the lodge, Koen had prepared us a meal, and we sat
outside eating and listening to the sounds of the wilderness. The news that a
neighbour died of malaria was a reality check and I realised I hadn’t started
taking my malaria tablets.
10
April – Ivory Camp – Kongola – 36 km
I
returned along the sandy track and cycled past peaceful settlements where smoke
lazily drifted skywards. The way led past kids collecting water and wood as I found
myself cycling into a stiff breeze. My late departure and the headwind made me
realise I most likely would be unable to reach Katima and hence stayed one more
night in the tiny settlement of Kongola.
Albeit
situated on the national road and the national power line, it has not yet been
connected to the electricity grid. The power was iffy, to say the least. Luckily,
the power came on at around 6 pm, but it was a mystery just how long it would last.
There’s further no access to safe water but, too lazy to cycle to the shop, I
drank the water anyway as I reckoned I’m immune to water-borne diseases by now.
I guess this can come back to bite me in the ass!
11/12 April –
Kongola – Katima Mulilo – 120 km
The
route between Kongola and Katima is not one of the most interesting, but
there’s no such thing as a dull day of cycling in Africa. Unexpectedly, I encountered
ladies collecting wood or water, and their faces screamed disbelief, and I
can’t blame them. However, they were quick to smile and wave once over the
initial shock.
We
haven’t seen any of the enormous termite mounds seen further south because the
termite mound soil is used to build huts, and I understand these structures can
last between 5 – 10 years. The road was further dotted with makeshift stalls
selling fresh milk and meat. Exactly how fresh remains a mystery.
Neat
settlements abounded, and so did the Nguni cattle, a breed indigenous
to Southern Africa. Nguni cattle are heat and light tolerant and can handle
extreme heat and cold alike. In addition, they are adaptable and hardy and
possess excellent resistance to internal and external parasites with natural
immunity to tick-borne diseases.
The
effortless riding made for an early arrival in the sad-looking town of Katima
where I bunked down at the ABC Guesthouse. I love these places and realise how
much I’ve missed Africa and its simple and slow way of life.
The
following day was also spent in Katima as I had a few things to do, and Linda
needed a day of rest after her long cycle the previous day.
Interestingly,
I chatted with people and was asked if I wanted to settle in the area. The
indigenous people do not view land as their own property – instead, it is
something that belongs to everyone. I understood that they could speak to the
chief and, if permission was granted, I could build myself a hut. I quite like
that idea.
