Thailand (13.1) - Malaysia (5)1234 Km – 31 Days3 December 2017 – 2 January 2018
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Thailand (13.1)
1148 Km – 22 Days
3 December – Pattaya
Linda arrived in Thailand on 3 December for our
planned cycle to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. She must’ve been exhausted, following
a 36-hour flight from Fort Lauderdale and a two-hour bus trip from the airport!
The evening was spent sitting on the balcony, drinking a few beers and I’d the
feeling we were going to get on like a house on fire.
4 December – Pattaya
Up early, a short jog along the beachfront, followed
by a quick dip in the pool woke us for the day ahead. The bicycle seemed to fit
Linda perfectly, and a short cycle took us to outlying temples and the Big
Buddha Hill. On our return, popping in at the floating market, concluded a
lovely day. By evening we packed our panniers and prepared for our ride to
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, a roughly 2000-kilometre journey.
5 December - Pattaya – Samut Songkram – By
taxi
As arranged the previous night, a taxi picked
us up at 10:00 sharp to take us the 200-kilometres to Samut Songkram. A move that
cut out a long, congested and frustrating cycle through sprawling Bangkok,
especially having limited time.
Samut
Songkhram is home to the famous Maeklong Railway Market, where a warren of
stalls spills over onto the railway line. As the train approached, traders
hastily moved produce and canopies a mere metre away, leaving barely enough
space for the train to pass. The train creeps at snail’s pace through the
crowded market and once past, the whole shebang goes back into place in record
time and trade continues as before—only to follow the same procedure when the
next train arrives.
Samut Songkram was further famous for its
street food. Mobile food carts popped up beside the main road as soon as the
sun started setting, providing an endless array of dishes. This day was the
king’s birthday and thus a public holiday, and the temple was crowded with worshippers.
Smoke from incense hung thick in the air, as devotees threw Chi Sticks (Kau
Cim), a form of fortune-telling. These sticks were put in a cup, a question asked,
and the cup shook until one fell out. Each stick represents a specific answer.
6 December – Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 130
km
Following a quick breakfast at Hometown
Hostel we said goodbye to the lovely owners and the two cyclists met there. Sebastian
from Switzerland, didn’t feel well and decided to stay an extra day. Dave, from
Borneo, Malaysia, was heading south to Kuala Lumpur. As is often the case in the
wet season, the Chao Phraya River floods its banks at high tide, causing the
streets to be under water. So it took cycling around the town, adding a further
ten kilometres to an already long day. Still, it remained a lovely amble
through a rural area. Shortly after leaving, we came across another cyclist
heading to Kuala Lumpur. Romeo, from Germany, was in no hurry, and together we
continued until he turned off to Phetchaburi.
The coastal route continued past salt farms,
rice paddies, Buddha statues, and rivers crammed with fishing boats. Friendly
Thais waved and called greetings from stilted homes. Yet, one could see signs
of the previous weeks’ heavy rain, and houses not on stilts were in serious
trouble.
The day became an exceptionally long one for the
first day. Still, Linda did tremendously well, and we crawled into Hua Hin in
the late afternoon. Bird Guesthouse, an old, rickety wooden guesthouse sporting
rooms on stilts over the water was our abode of choice. We wasted no time
grabbing a beer which we drank, sitting on the deck watching the tide roll in. Dave
popped in for beer and stories were swapped of our day and plans for the days
ahead.
7 December - Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot National
Park – 57 km
In the morning, Dave joined us, and the three
of us continued in Sam Roi Yot National Park’s direction. Finding a bicycle
path, leading out of the city was a pleasant surprise. Our first stop was
Rajabhakti Park, a historical theme park honouring past Thai kings. Afterwards,
we moseyed along the coast, crossing many rivers featuring colourful fishing
boats. A tailwind made easy cycling as we ventured further south, stopping to
drink coconut juice and inspect fascinating caves.
A scramble up a small hill revealed more
caves and a stunning view over the surrounding area.
As the plan was on visiting Phraya Nakhon
Cave in the morning, a guesthouse was located in Ban Bang Pu. The place was
pricey at 900TB, but affordable split amongst the three of us. Smiling at our
fortune, and quite content, the deck made a perfect spot to watch the fishing
boats anchored in the river sipping a few Chang Beers.
8 December – Sam Roi Yot National Park –
Prachuap Khiri Khan – 60 km
A short bike ride took us to boats ferrying people
around the headland to Laem Sala Beach. Our early start made us the first ones
there and from where a short but steep walk snaked up the mountain to Phraya
Nakhon Cave. It’s a spectacular sight to peep through the cracks and see the
temple inside. A hole in the cave ceiling allowed a shaft of light to shine
onto the temple, making it a spectacular sight and an excellent photo
opportunity.
Once underway, a pleasurable route stuck
close to the ocean to where Prachuap Khiri Khan marked the end of the day’s
ride and where one could bunk down at popular Maggie’s Homestay.
9 December – Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang
Saphan Beach – 95 km
The next day turned out a testing one as the
previous night I must’ve eaten something which didn’t agree with me, and was up
half the night with diarrhoea and vomiting. If not for the tailwind it would’ve
been an exhausting day.
Not feeling energetic, we pulled into Bang
Saphan Beach around 17h00 and waited until my friend Peter Yoong arrived.
Unfortunately, Peter was cycling in the opposite direction and straight into a headwind
which caused a long and arduous day. It was, nevertheless, lovely seeing him
and we’d dinner together.
10 December - Bang Saphan - Hat Thungwualean–
90 km
A stunning sunrise greeted us, and after
breakfast with Peter, we set out in our respective directions. Both Linda and I
felt a great deal better (although not 100%).
The stretch between Bang Saphan and Hat
Thungwualean made easy riding next to the ocean as the path led past oil palm, rubber
tree, and pineapple plantations. The numerous coconut juice and watermelon vendors
added to an already enjoyable day. The coastal road was genuinely idyllic and
dotted by small fishing hamlets and quaint eateries right on the beach.
Thungwualean was reached in good time and sported
bungalows across the street from the ocean. Supper was at one of the seaside restaurants
and where the food was delicious, and the location superb.
11 December – Thungwualean – Kraburi – 82 km
Sitting on the beach watching a beautiful
sunrise is always a good way to start a day. Our first stop was in the nearby
town of Chumphon to find a screw to hold Linda’s phone-holder in place.
Afterwards, we waved the Gulf of Thailand
goodbye and headed over the hills to the Andaman Sea, stopping for a snack of steamed
dumplings from a roadside stand.
Once over the central cordillera, a mountain
chain that ran from Tibet through the Malay peninsula (by then only a few
hills), a quick stop was made at the Kra Isthmus. The Kra Isthmus is the
narrowest part of the Malay Peninsula, in southern Thailand and bordered to the
west by the Andaman Sea and the east by the Gulf of Thailand. Between the Kra
River and the Bay of Sawi near Chumphon, the narrowest part was a measly 44
kilometres.
Being a relatively short day, we rolled into Kraburi
early and where a lovely little A-frame bungalow lured us in.
12 December - Kraburi - Ranong - 58 km
We chatted at length to the owner of the
chalets prior to cycling off in search of breakfast. Fortunately, in Thailand,
one’s never far from a good bowl of noodle soup, and that’s precisely what we
found.
Our path ran through the Kra Buri National
Park, a particularly scenic ride, albeit a tad hilly. While chewing on
sugarcane, bought from a roadside vendor, the way took us over hills and where
we sped downhill at breakneck speed once over the high point. Next, we pedalled
across rivers revealing simple wooden houses clinging precariously to the banks.
En route, waterfalls offered great views of the valleys below. Finally, a temple
revealing a giant statue of Buddha lured us in. A place where fierce-looking
yakshas guarded the entrance; these guardian-warriors keep away evil spirits
and can be seen at most Thai temples.
Arrival in Ranong was early, and where the
Kiwi Orchid Guesthouse provided a bed. It was situated right on the main road
and beside the bus station, making a rather lively spot. An added advantage was
the establishment sported a washing machine and organised cheap visa runs to
Myanmar, which I needed as I only had four days left on my Thai visa.
13 December – Ranong
A rest day was spent in Ranong and I arranged
a visa run. Still, it never happened and I did a visa extension instead, the
only difference being the price! The remainder of the day was spent doing the usual
rest day chores of laundry and rearranging panniers.
14 December – Ranong – Bang Ben Beach - 57 km
Shortly following breakfast, we cycled out of
Ranong and past numerous temples. It’s said 95% of Thailand’s population is
Buddhist, and it felt as if there were Buddha statues around every corner. The
area was so forested that the only hill featuring a grassy hilltop is now a
tourist attraction, complete with a temple at the top.
Not significantly further a turn-off led to
Laem Son National Park and Bang Ben Beach. Bang Ben Beach was situated 10 km from
the road, and the path ran past mangrove swamps and water buffalo waddling in ponds.
Even more interesting was the Sanskrit swastika painted on fishing boxes. To my
knowledge, the word swastika means “good fortune” and is considered a sacred
symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism; unfortunately, Hitler gave it a bad name.
At the beautiful Bang Ben Beach scenic pier, fishing
boats were lying high and dry, waiting for the tide to come in. Finally, a
chalet at Wasana Resort became home that night. Being early, we could kickback,
beer in hand, the rest of the afternoon.
15 December – Bang Ben Beach – Kura Buri
(Kuraburi) – 91 km
Breakfast was at Wasana Resort while chatting
to friendly Bo. Bo hailed from Holland and married his lovely Thai wife nearly
30 years ago. Together they ran Wasana Resort, and it must be mentioned, her
cooking is superb. Again, the stretch of road from Bang Ben provided lush and
thick forests on both sides of the road. It was further interesting that
mosques and ladies in hijabs became more prevalent as we travelled south.
A sign to a waterfall called for investigating
and it turned out a lovely, serene area. Then back on our iron horses to Lang
Thung Nang Pier featuring countless colourful fishing boats. Lang Thung Nang’s
villagers have always made a living from the ocean, and it’s still so today.
Before setting out on the last leg to Kura Buri, we first devoured a bowl of “namkhaeng
sai”, a Thai dessert of shaved ice with the toppings at the bottom. The
“toppings” came in a large variety, usually of a chewy jelly kind.
Then on to Kuraburi. Linda was like a horse who’d
smelled the stable, and on looking up, she was already gone and over the hills.
16 December – Kura Buri – Khaolak – 95 km
No two days are ever alike when touring, and
we set off over the hills past the ever-present rubber tree plantations. In the
process our ride took us past at least three national parks. One offered an
opportunity to walk through the mangroves; it’s always interesting to see what
all lurks in those swamps at low tide. Our path further went past communities
drying betel nut. The betel nut or areca nut comes from the areca palm and it
grows wild all over Thailand. The nut is primarily used to make paan, chewed
similar to tobacco.
Not much further was the Chaomae Kuan-Im
Shrine, which had a long and fascinating history. After that, time was spent
eating noodle soup and visiting an elephant farm. Close to our destination, the
rain came bucketing down. We donned plastic raincoats, pulled our caps down low
and continued to Khaolak.
17 December – Khaolak – Phuket – 105 km
The day became one marred by bicycle problems.
I couldn’t figure out where the creaking sound came from and gave the entire
bike a good spray of WD-40 but to no avail. Not knowing what was wrong it was best
to stay on the main road instead of following more minor roads as was our
habit.
Midway
through the day, our path crossed the 660-meter Sarasin Bridge built
in 1951 and said the first bridge to connect the mainland to the island.
Unfortunately, the bridge has a tragic history. In 1973 two lovers jumped into
the water after being denied a relationship by the young lady’s father. Their
sad story has subsequently been made into a film.
Although Phuket is an island, it isn’t the
kind of island that springs to mind, as it is rather large. From the bridge, it’s
a further 50 kilometres to Patong, Phuket’s main beach.
Towards the end of the day, a bike shop with
the unusual name of “U Can Bicycle Shop” appeared. Staff replaced the bottom
bracket, but still, the ungodly sound remained. They then changed the pedals,
but still, the sound was there. They concluded it had to be the rear rack. I
paid and thanked them for their help, and we pointed the bikes in the direction
of Patong Beach. (Still, I believed it was the rear hub but there’s no arguing
with a man at a bicycle shop). I was further surprised at how little confidence
the staff had in us. On hearing we were heading to Patong, the owner scratched
his head, shook it, and declared he didn’t think we would make it, as there were
steep hills to contend with. There were indeed a few steep hills, but nothing which
would make you get off the bicycle and push! Despite the bike shops predictions
Linda and I slinked into Patong just as the sun was setting.
18 December - Patong, Phuket
Linda and I had different things to do.
First, I went into Phuket town to find a Canon repair centre, as I needed my
camera fixed. After speaking to the Canon office lady, I learned the waiting
period was two weeks. So I returned, tail between my legs, to Patong, where I
caught up with Linda, who had a more successful day.
Patong is a world-class party beach, and
there was no shortage of food, drinks, go-go bars, and ping-pong shows. Linda
and I erred on the conservative side, had a beer and a bite to eat, and
returned to the relative safety of our room. In reality, we just couldn’t be arsed
with the overpriced meals and drinks and cheap trinkets on offer. I always say
cycle touring spoils one for life. Once you’ve experienced the “real” Thailand,
it’s hard to appreciate a place like Patong. That said, it’s a most remarkable town;
as Lonely Planet puts it: “Phuket’s beating heart can be found in Patong, a
‘sin city’ of the ultimate gong shows where podgy beachaholics sizzle like
rotisserie chickens and go-go girls play ping-pong—without paddles. Jet-setters
touch down in droves, getting pummelled at swanky spas and swigging sundowners
at fashion-forward night spots.”
19 December – Patong, Phuket – Phi Phi Island
– by ferry
From Phuket, the plan was on heading to Krabi
via Phi Phi island and onwards to Malaysia. You know you’re in for a rough trip
when staff hands out seasick tablets as you board and signs read, “Don’t throw
up here”. An unprecedented wind was blowing, and the seas were indeed rough.
Our ferry rocked and rolled, and even the seasick tablets handed out clearly didn’t
work for everyone. We did, nonetheless, arrive on Phi Phi Island safely (bikes
and all!).
There was no shortage of accommodation on that
tiny island, and one was quickly located, albeit at the hefty price of 1000TB a
night. No time was wasted heading to the shore where a kayak was rented, for a
paddle to Monkey Beach. On our return, enough time remained to walk to the
viewpoint and watch the sunset in the company of loads of other holidaymakers.
Then down the hill for a bit of fun with the young crowd, buckets of booze,
easy banter, and typical holiday island fun.
20 December – Phi Phi Island
Linda went scuba diving and I decided to give
it a miss and update my journal and photos. Another great day in paradise.
21 December – Phi Phi Island - Krabi by ferry
Sadly, the time came to leave Phi Phi island,
and we caught the 10h30 ferry for the return trip to the mainland. Once in
Krabi, a short ride took us to Mr Clean Guesthouse where accommodation was far
less pricey than Phi Phi.
A short stroll to the riverfront brought us
to the pier to negotiate a price and excursion into the mangroves. We were
offered a 2-hour trip, including a stop at a fascinating cave for a small fee. By
evening, I searched for a bike shop as my bicycle needed adjustment; and uncovered
a friendly and competent one.
22 December – Krabi
After discussing our plans and route for the
remainder of the trip, Linda decided to spend one more day in Krabi and use the
time to go climbing. There are loads of activities to enjoy in and around Krabi.
In addition, travellers often make Krabi town their base to explore the
surrounding areas. I returned to the shop to adjust the gears, sorted out
photos and updated my journal. Later, a walk took me up to the Tiger Cave
Temple, all 1200 steps of it! Unfortunately, there wasn’t much to see at the
top as the weather was hazy and the monkeys a menace.
23 December – Krabi – Trang – 130 km
The next day came with a strong tailwind and
powered by the wind, we flew to Trang. The weather made comfortable cycling as
not only was the wind in our favour, but the weather was overcast with a
drizzle. We barely stopped, apart from popping into an interesting looking
temple, a waterfall and a quick bowl of noodle soup. I don’t know what was in the
soup, but soon Linda took off like a bat out of hell, never to be seen again.
Soon the lovely town of Trang was reached,
where digs were available at the Trang Hotel. The entire hotel and town were
booked out to cyclists, and it turned out, a bicycle event was taking place the
following day.
24 December – Trang – La Ngu – 98 km
Again, the weather was in our favour as the
day started with a drizzle which soon cleared. Then, like the previous day, the
sun came out, and with the wind in our backs, it made enjoyable cycling to La
Ngu. The way crossed numerous tropical-looking rivers, unusual-looking shrines
and temples, and interesting markets. As was her habit, Linda stopped for a
bowl of noodle soup and bought snacks of fried bananas from friendly vendors.
The area was littered with caves, and one offered
a rather inviting swimming hole. My greatest disappointment was the Stegodon
Sea Cave (which can be explored by kayak) was a prearranged trip. Instead, the route
continued through the Satun Geopark, a fascinating and extraordinary area. In
La Ngu, we called it a day and Linda came upon a lovely room at Dahla the
Resort. Following a shower, our hunt for food, sounded more straightforward
than it turned out. La Ngu wasn’t a touristy area, and hardly any English was spoken.
As a result, all menus were in Thai. In the end, a plate of fried rice was the
best option.
Malaysia (5)
86 Km – 9 Days
25 - 26 December – La Ngu, Thailand –
Langkawi, Malaysia – 86 km
Following an early start, the first stop was
at 7-Eleven for breakfast before heading to Satun to catch the Langkawi ferry. Even
though the internet stated the Satun – Langkawi ferry was at 14:30, one never knew
for sure. However, our early start gave enough time to amble along, and once in
Satun, we stopped to enjoy our last bowl of Thai noodle soup. The immigration system
at the Satun pier was one of the most laidback, and we’d ample time to change
money, buy our tickets, and relax until the ferry departed to Langkawi, Malaysia.
On disembarking at the ferry port in
Langkawi, immigration formalities went without a hassle. A stamp in the
passport allowed a 3-month stay in Malaysia. We stopped for the obligatory
photo at the massive eagle and then proceeded over the hills to Cenang Beach,
or Backpackerville, as I called it.
The following day was a relaxing one. I went
for a short jog, had my fill of roti canai, did shopping and marvelled at all the
things for sale in touristy Langkawi. Linda returned sporting a South African bottle
of red wine, which was enjoyed on the beach watching the sunset over the Strait
of Malacca.
27 December - Langkawi – Penang – By ferry
Following discussions, the ferry to Penang appeared
the best option. We were operating in low gear as sufficient time remained to
cycle the 23 kilometres to the ferry port.
With Penang’s central location in the Strait
of Malacca, the island was an essential stopover on the ancient trade route
between Europe, the Middle East, India and China. As the Strait of Malacca is
located on the crossing point of two monsoon seasons, ships couldn’t set sail
until the winds were in their favour. As a result, Penang became a diverse
melting pot of cultures, a diversity that remains today. The streets were lined
by food carts, and one could feast on Malay, Indian and Chinese cuisine. One
dish more delicious than the other.
Once accommodation was uncovered and panniers
offloaded Linda and I headed out, searching for street art, which Penang is
famous for. I organised a new Thailand visa, ate street food, and later caught
up with Linda at the Reggae Bar. Afterwards, we’d a beer in one of the lanes
where people sat on tiny plastic chairs drinking cheap beer—an excellent spot
to meet alternative travellers.
28 December – Penang
The day was spent exploring - Linda took the
hop-on-hop-off bus, and I went in search of a train or bus to take us to Kuala
Lumpur as it was decided to spend New Year’s Eve in KL. As far as I could
establish, we couldn’t take bicycles on the train, and the bus was a
wait-and-see situation. I took the gamble, bought two tickets, and hoped staff
would allow the bikes on the bus the next day.
29 December - Penang
The following morning I went for a run and
Linda caught the hop-on-hop-off bus, as her ticket was valid until 16h00. Penang
is blessed with an ensemble of old colonial buildings and thus has an
outstanding architectural heritage. One can therefore
understand why Georgetown was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My run
took me past the old quarters revealing wooden Chinese shophouses, ornate
temples and narrow alleys. Then, past the food stands in Little India, past
Fort Cornwallis, built by the British East Indian Company in the late 18th
century, past the Sri Mariamman Temple, an ornate Hindu temple built in 1883,
and finally past the Clan Jetties dating to 1882.
We moved to another hotel as our room was
booked. I did my laundry and then looked for a travel water heater convenient
for making coffee. My old one packed up, and I desperately needed a new one. My
search was to no avail and guessed I’d to wait until returning to Thailand to get
a new one.
30 December - Penang – Kuala Lumpur by bus
In the morning we pedalled off to the bus
station. The driver was kind enough to allow both bikes, albeit at the cost of 20
Malaysian Ringgit each. A short ride brought us to Kuala Lumpur, and once off
the bus, we searched for the hotel booked online. Unfortunately, the hotel wasn’t
quite what we’d anticipated, and the owner allowed cancelling the booking. Instead,
a far better place was discovered on Old Market Square, making Kuala Lumpur
easy on foot.
31 December – Kuala Lumpur
I went for a short run, after which Linda and
I took a walk to the KL Tower and the famous Petronas Towers, my favourite tall
building if there’s such a thing. Returning, both buildings were beautifully lit,
as was the Masjid Jamek mosque. We popped in but were required to don a bright
red cloak. Though Malaysia is a multi-cultural and multi-confessional country,
the official religion is Islam, and it’s said 61.3% of the population practices
Islam. There’s, thus, no shortage of beautiful mosques. That said, there were equally
impressive Hindu and Chinese Temples.
On New Year’s Eve, we stopped for beer at the
Colosseum. Established in 1921, Colosseum Café & Grill room is one of the
oldest in the country and an excellent example of the city’s colonial heritage.
Then off to the more popular Reggae Bar for a drink.
1 January - Kuala Lumpur
Linda took the hop-on-hop-off bus, and I searched
for information on how to get her bicycle to Pattaya. Unfortunately, everything
was closed, and I couldn’t find any info on sending a bike to Thailand. I nevertheless
discovered a cycle shop but they were closed, and there was nothing to do but
wait until the next day.
2 January - Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur also indicated the end of
Linda’s ride. She hailed a taxi to the airport for her return flight to Fort
Lauderdale, USA. After a delicious Indian breakfast of idli and roti canai, I
took a walk to the post office and the news was good. Yes, one could indeed send
bicycles by post and all one needed to do was box it and the post office would
collect it and deliver it to the address in Thailand.
3 January 2018 - Kuala Lumpur – Selangor – 87
km
After Linda departed, I was no reason to hang
around Kuala Lumpur. Instead, I took Linda’s bicycle to the shop to be boxed.
Once done, the owner promised to contact Malaysia Post to collect it and send
it to Pattaya. I left the necessary money with the owner to pay the transport
and boxing fees and hoped all would work out as planned.
On leaving, I was surprised to find myself on
a cycle path, making an easy escape from the city centre.
