147 CAMBODIA (9.1)913 Km – 25 Days
2 February – 27 February 2019
PHOTOS
2 February - Phnom Penh
Megan and Erma arrived in Phnom Penh late on
2 February and must’ve been exhausted after their long flight. Still, it was lovely
to meet them; unfortunately, their flight landed in the afternoon, and there remained
little time to do anything of note. There barely remained enough time to head
to the promenade, where one could stroll along in the company of Khmers doing
their daily exercises.
Phnom Penh has a wonderful location on the Tonle
Sap River, which connects Tonle Sap Lake to the Mekong. The two rivers meet at
Phnom Penh, making it a convenient place to watch the river flow past.
Our evening meal was at the night market, where
one could pick delicacies from the countless stalls and then enjoy them sitting
on mats provided for such a purpose. As expected, Erma and Megan turned in
early as they departed Namibia 24 hours earlier and were, understandably, exhausted.
3 February - Phnom Penh
Together with my jetlagged friends, we were
up at dawn. Not only to stroll towards the Royal Palace but
to make the best use of the early morning light. It’s such a pleasure being out
at that time of the morning. As Kipling said, “The dawn came up like
thunder” while strolling past
the immensely popular Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine, where people prayed for good
luck. Even at such an early hour, devotees were lighting candles, and the smell
of incense was already thick in the air.
We wandered the grounds of Wat Ounalom, the
headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. Founded in 1443, we understood the head of
the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lived on-site. The stupa is further rumoured
to contain an eyebrow hair of the Buddha.
Later, once the bikes were reassembled, Megan
and Erma explored the city’s famous sights by tuk-tuk. Janice and I did a few
outstanding chores, and before knowing it, time came to head to the river for a
sunset cruise. Armed with a few beers, we boarded a ferry via a narrow
gangplank and spent a few enjoyable hours on the river watching the sun set
over this famous river.
Supper was done in true Khmer style by
ordering various dishes and sharing them amongst the four of us. The frog was
delicious, as were the salad spring rolls and the other dishes.
4 February – Phnom Penh - Koh Dock - 52 km
Preparations for Chinese New Year were in
full swing as our little group pedalled out of Phnom Penh in the direction of
Koh Dach, or Silk Island, situated at the confluence of the Tonle and Mekong
Rivers. The route to the ferry was approximately nine kilometres. It took us
through typical Cambodian suburbs, wooden houses on stilts and hand-drawn carts
pulled and pushed by manpower. Greetings of “Happy New Year!” were called from
doorways, and others burned paper money offerings in honour of ancestors. Temples
were hives of activities as Chinese New Year was when people gifted monks with vast
quantities of food.
On reaching the ferry, a short ride took us
to the island known for its silk weaving. Cambodia has a lengthy silk-weaving
history, believed to date to pre-Angkorian times. Albeit a dwindling art, Koh
Dach was still dotted by weaving communities. On the ferry, a lady befriended us
and offered to show us her home where they spun silk. We watched in fascination
as they went about their trade, and were in awe of their ability to weave such
intricate patterns.
A country lane circumnavigates the island,
making for a pleasurable ride and an opportunity to drink coconut juice. The
lady skilfully hacked open the coconuts using a machete. Once finished, we handed
them back to the vendor, who cracked them open and crafted spoons from the side
to scrape out the coconut meat within. The path led past small kids, giving the
impression they were a tad nervous seeing four “farangs” on bicycles.
Following a light lunch of pork pau and ice
cream, our slightly dusty path took us to the ferry. Unfortunately, Erma
discovered her seat stem broken, and we hailed a tuk-tuk to take her to our
abode. On arrival at the guesthouse, Erma and I searched for a bike shop.
Still, the majority were closed due to Chinese New Year celebrations. I thought
us super lucky to find a shop still open to replace the seat stem. Then, back
to have a shower before returning to the night market.
5 February – Phnom Penh – Oudong(k) – 52 km
Leaving Phnom Penh was on Chinese New Year
and in the direction of Oudonk. Getting out of Phnom Penh was surprisingly effortless,
and I was impressed by how well my friends handled the horrendous Phnom Penh traffic,
which can intimidate newcomers.
Soon, the hectic road spat us out on a country
lane and past fascinating brick-making kilns. Our route took us past rural
areas where kids still rode a “broom-horse” or played “kick the flip-flop”, the
rules of which still elude me. Roadside stalls sold tamarind and lotus seeds, which
were not as tasty as anticipated. But, to the surprise of one eatery owner,
four foreign women on bicycles stopped and ordered noodle soup. The soup was
delicious, albeit prepared using instant noodles, but they were forgiven as it
was, after all, Chinese New Year.
With renewed energy, we set off and came upon
the remarkable Wat Sowann Thamareach. This wasn’t a traditional temple but seemed
a copy of an ancient one. The buildings were exquisite with amazing light
inside; still, it appeared little known.
A country lane led to Phnom Udong, past a
hill topped by spires of stupas resembling a fairy castle. The stupa on the central
hill was rumoured to house the remains of past kings and once at the top stunning
scenes greeted us. Such vistas seldom came without first having to ascend a few
stairs. My friends took the stairs in their stride and never complained about
being dragged up a hill after a day on the bike.
From Phnom Udong, a short ride took us to
Oudonk which sported a few places to stay and we picked one across the road
from a restaurant. So came to an end our first day of riding. Kudos to Janice,
Megan and Erma, who rode like seasoned cycle tourers, never complaining even
when the road was poor.
6-7 February - Oudongk – Kampong Chhnang – 55
km
On waking, our room had been invaded by ants.
Just about the whole shebang was covered in ants, from our snacks to the towels!
I dressed in a great hurry to take my panniers outside, only to discover I’d not
only the proverbial ants in my pants but real ones. The pants were promptly
ripped off but I was already covered in ant bites by then! Phew!
The way was unpleasantly congested, but the
lack of minor roads made us continue along the highway, only turning off once
to follow a rural route through the countryside. On rounding a corner, Megan
slipped in the loose sand and landed herself in a ditch in a cloud of dust.
Before she could dust herself off, the entire community was there to help. Mercifully,
she was unhurt and apart from a dirty bum and bruised ego, all was good. Not
much further, a shady coconut seller allowed a breather. The lady (as always) hacked
it open so one could eat the flesh inside. Janice wanted to try the “hacking
open” but nearly chopped her thumb off! Clearly, she needed a great deal more
machete practice. Before we proceeded to Kampong Chhnang, her wound was cleaned
and bandaged as best we could.
The Garden Guesthouse, a real traveller’s
lodge, lured us in. Janice and I caught a tuk-tuk to the health care centre where
they cleaned her wound and re-bandaged it. An additional day was spent in Kampong
Chhnang to allow Janice to get an anti-tetanus injection and investigate the
nearby floating village.
The next morning, Janice and I woke early to go
to the health care centre where she received the necessary injection. Better safe
than sorry. Afterwards, Janice, Megan and Erma took a boat to the floating
village, and I returned to our establishment to take care of a few chores.
8 February – Kampong Chhnang – Ponley – 55 km
As Chhnang means pottery in Khmer, it wasn’t
surprising to find pottery in the area. Our first stop was at the pottery community
of Andong Russey. Andong Russey was a small settlement where pots were stacked
high under stilted homes. Stopping at various home industries, we found the
process fascinating and photogenic. We clicked away before waving the families
goodbye and headed further north. The route continued past an old Khmer Rouge
abandoned airport, a complex built by the KR with the help of Chinese
engineers. I understood the airport was never used and is still in good
condition. No exploring was done.
Our path followed country roads past tiny
hamlets where people still pumped water from wells. En route, we stopped
spotting a young man scrambling up a makeshift bamboo ladder fixed to a sugar
palm tree. It seemed containers were left in the tree overnight and full ones were
collected in the morning. After being offered a sip, I was initially apprehensive
but found it sweet and surprisingly delicious. The juice is boiled to make palm
sugar.
The route continued past rice drying in the
sun and the ever-present Buddhist temples. Farmers herd cattle along dusty roads
as both kids and parents looked up in surprise as four foreign women pedalled
past on loaded bicycles. Even the dogs looked too surprised to give chase.
A hawker provided watermelon which the lady peeled
and cut up for us to enjoy. Janice, for obvious reasons, wasn’t allowed anywhere
close to the knife. The watermelon was served with a side plate of sugar, salt
and chillies, a rather unusual combination.
Then, on to the tiny community of Ponley
where our arrival was in oppressing heat. The heat made exhausting riding and I
think all were happy to find an air-con room to unwind the remainder of the
day.
9 February – Ponely – Kampong Luong floating
Village – 35 km
Departing Ponely was in the company of
krama-clad ladies on bicycles and past stalls selling fruit we’d never seen
before. Milk fruit or star apple is a round purple fruit with a soft inside and
a vague blueberry taste. Other shops sold sugar discs made from sugar palm juice,
fermented vegetables, and dried buffalo meat. Being weekend, several wedding
ceremonies were encountered. It looked as if the entire wedding party was
dressed in matching, brightly coloured silk costumes.
A road sign pointed to Kampong Luong. A few
kilometres later boats waited to take people to and from the floating village
of Kampong Luong. Arranging to leave our bicycles at their “office” was an
uncomplicated affair. We hopped on a boat past countless floating homes to a
homestay. Being a floating home, space was at a premium and the owner pointed us
to two teeny rooms with mattresses on the floor and much-needed mosquito nets
above. Sitting on the veranda, watching life in a floating village play out in
front of us, wasn’t only pleasant but an eye-opener.
It looked as if kids who could hardly walk
could quite comfortably row a boat. Kampong Luong was like any other settlement
and included shops, petrol stations, schools, temples, and a police station.
The only difference being the whole shebang floated. More astonishing, it
appeared the water was used for pretty much everything, from having a bath to
doing dishes and laundry. At the same time, everything seemed to go into the
water! Staying in the village was a fascinating insight into the people’s lives.
10 February – Kampong Luong – Pursat – 65 km
First thing in the morning, a boat taxi
collected and dropped us where we stowed the bicycles. Right from the start, our
route followed rural roads past scrawny white cows and ornate temples. Houses
on stilts sold petrol by the litre in Coke bottles while others were de-husking
rice. Makeshift shops sold water and penny line sweets; others offered noodle
soup and drinks more potent than water.
The hot and dusty day left us covered in red
dust and required stopping at every shop to fill our water bottles. Spotting the
ice cream man, we were as excited as the village kids and fell in line to wait
our turn under scores of giggles. Pursat made a welcome sight and a place where
one could still find a hotel with a bathtub!
11 February – Pursat – Moung Ruessei – 62 km
Exploring an old and spooky brickmaking
factory made an exciting start to the day while monks and their helpers
collected food. Interestingly, when collecting food monks don’t say thank you.
The giving of alms isn’t considered a charity; instead, the giving and
receiving of alms create a spiritual connection between the monastic and lay
communities. The public has a responsibility to support the monks physically. In
turn, the monks are obligated to spiritually support the community—what a
lovely philosophy.
In the midday heat, temples made welcome
resting areas as they usually had shade and toilets. On this occasion, it
turned out a fascinating monastery with boy monks. Even though the young monks
were incredibly shy, we snapped a few pics. Stopping wasn’t only to fill water bottles
but to sample what was available at roadside eateries. The day’s favourite was
fruit, especially the sweet and tasty pineapples.
In Moung Ruessei, the Oudom Hotel, with its pristine
swimming pool, made comfortable accommodation and staying thus a no-brainer. Supper
was at a nearby restaurant where we met Steve, an incredibly generous Cambodian
who not only bought us beer but proceeded to pay for our meal. Thank you, Steve.
12-13 February - Moung
Ruessei – Battambang – 86 km
In anticipation of a long day of biking, we
made an early start. Our route followed a secondary road, but the paved road
soon vanished and turned into a rough, bumpy dirt track. Still, it remained an
interesting ride past old temples and villagers going about their daily routines.
An old rice mill made a fascinating stop as inside it had an array of shoots,
funnels, gears and belts.
Not much further, a lady peddled grilled rats
from a wicker basket balanced on her head, and one was, nervously, purchased at
a mere 1000 riel ($0.25 US). Everyone tried a piece, and all agreed grilled rat
was delicious and better than chicken. The meat was tender and had a faint
barbeque taste. I was impressed when Megan tried a small piece, albeit under
the impression it was a squirrel. After learning it was indeed rat, she
politely declined one more portion of tender thigh!
Realising our chosen route would take far too
long, we returned to the main road making an unnecessary 20-kilometre detour.
Thankfully, a stiff tailwind assisted us en route to Banan. The excellent road
cycled on came to an end, but we persevered until reaching Banan, home to an ancient
hilltop temple. This Angkor-era mountaintop temple was constructed between the
11th and 12th centuries. Construction was started by King Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya
Varman II (1050-1066) and completed by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). From
Banan temple, a pleasurable 22-kilometre ride took us to Battambang where we bunked
down at the Royal Hotel.
By morning, a tuk-tuk ride made exploring the
outlying Ek Phnom temple easy. En route, we stopped at the rice paper makers to
eat freshly made spring rolls and passed hardworking ironmongers. At sunset, we
headed for the hills to watch a gazillion bats fly out of their cave searching
for food. A truly spectacular sight.
14 February – Battambang – Siem Reap – By
boat - 14 km
We were up remarkably early to catch the boat
across the Tonle Sap Lake to Siem Reap. In the wet season, this involves a
short and uncomplicated cycle to the ferry pier. However, in the dry season, the
water is far too shallow, and it took a 50-kilometre tuk-tuk ride to get us to
the boat. Albeit a fascinating trip, it remained an awfully long day on a boat
and all were happy to reach the end of the boat ride.
A short pedal led into bustling Siem Reap.
The Jiu Yan Wu Angkor Hotel was considered a bargain at $20 a twin room,
including a pool and breakfast. The evening was spent in lively and touristy
Pub Street where we not only ate but did a wee bit of shopping.
15 February – Siem Reap
The previous night a tuk-tuk with Mr Lam at
$30 was organised. The tour included a morning at the Angkor temples and
returning to the Bayon temple at sunset. Being in the company of Megan was a great
advantage as she guided us through shooting inside temples. I will be forever
grateful to her for showing me the light! By evening a bottle of wine was
polished off before supper, making the evening even more fun.
16 February - Siem Reap
Templed out, all slept late. I went for a run,
and we later met for breakfast. Then, each went off in their respective
directions. The previous night’s wine gave a taste of the good life, and an
additional bottle was purchased to take to the restaurant. It turned out a fun
evening - so much fun was had, the bill was paid twice!
17 February – Siem Reap – Svay Leu temple –
67 km
After breakfast, we pedalled out of Siem Reap.
It took no time at all to find a rural path leading through tiny hamlets and
seldom-visited areas. Ladies carted toddlers (to school?) in homemade wooden
carts. Our dirt path was shared by pot salesmen, tuk-tuks and ladies leading
cattle to greener pastures. Kids sold boiled corn which made convenient
snacking, after which we popped into a temple and found the monks preparing
their midday meal. A few pics were snapped before continuing our ride.
Eventually, landing in Svay Leu, permission was
granted to sleep at the temple. Sleeping at the temple turned out a fascinating
experience as monks prepared to celebrate Meak Bochea.
Meak Bochea is a religious holiday in Cambodia commemorating Buddha’s final
sermon. To the villagers’ surprise, four foreigners made their way to a nearby
restaurant where noodle soup was ordered following a lengthy discussion and
sign language.
18 February - Svay Leu Temple – Preah Vihear
– 98 km
I can’t say we’d a peaceful night’s sleep as
the temple dogs howled the best part of the night and temple music played (what
felt like) the entire night. Early morning, chickens started crowing, which also
got the dogs going. I guess it was time to get up anyhow. The commotion led to an
earlier than usual start, first stopping for breakfast which consisted of yet another
bowl of noodle soup.
The section between Svay Leu and Preah Vihear
was a longer than usual day of riding. Mercifully, the day was cloudy, making for
pleasurable cycling and stopping numerous times to fill our water bottles.
There weren’t many photo stops as we stuck to
the task at hand and headed to Preah Vihear. The road passed huge cashew nut
plantations where these strange fruits were in the process of becoming ripe. A
great deal of the way was either planted under cashew nuts or were cashew nut
nurseries. Towards the end of the day, four hot, tired, dusty farangs slinked
into tiny Preah Vihear, ready to devour whatever was on offer.
19 February – Preah Vihear – Chhaeb - 57 km
Our leisurely start was due to the previous
day’s long ride. Following a breakfast of rice porridge, we continued our quest.
Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple where Meak Bochea was being celebrated.
Devotees brought food to the temple and monks and nuns sat on mats, enjoying
the feast.
After taking a few pics and thanking the
monks, we continued in the direction of Chhaeb along a somewhat desolate
stretch of road. Not a great deal was happening, and good time was made, only
stopping to fill our water bottles. The weather was sweltering; even motorbike
salesmen pulled off to rest in the shade. The four crazy women, nevertheless,
continued and reached Chhaeb relatively early.
A guesthouse provided reasonable
accommodation and only a short walk to the temple where monks weren’t only
chanting but where a small fanfare was in progress. We hung around, waiting for
the full moon, but nothing came of our full moon photoshoot as the sky was too
hazy. Megan, not surprisingly, managed to get a few brilliant shots. Returning
to our abode, a street-side eatery provided beer, fried noodles and rice.
20 February – Chhaeb – Stung Treng – 88 km
Before leaving one more visit was paid to the
temple, but it turned out already too late to get any decent pictures. Megan
went far earlier and captured the best pics of the trip.
The way to Stung Treng was effortless riding and
the weather was in our favour. The tarmac was excellent, and the route gently
undulating, just enough to keep the boredom at bay. Loading the bikes, cycling,
stopping to fill our water bottles or admiring the landscape became a familiar
routine.
Our day’s ride finished in Stung Treng, where
the Golden River Hotel, situated right on the river, was home that night.
21 February – Stung Treng – Kratie – by
minivan
The stretch between Stung Treng and Kratie was
130 kilometres and offered little of interest. While considering taking a bus,
our decision was made even easier when we were approached and offered a minivan
ride to Kratie. The quote of $20 per person, including bicycles, was considered
a fair price. Once in Kratie, a tuk-tuk ride took us to the pier, where boats departed
to the river dolphin viewing. The skipper didn’t have to go far as the dolphins
were playing close by, and we sat watching them in fascination.
It needs mentioning that the Irrawaddy
dolphins are rare freshwater dolphins. Unlike most dolphin species with long
noses and pointed features, the Irrawaddy species have a blunt nose, straight
mouth, rounded tail, and fins. It’s said genetically; these dolphins are closely
related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting! Although called the Irrawaddy
River dolphin, I understood they are not actual river dolphins but oceanic
dolphins living in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and estuaries. By
now, it has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including the
Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are highly vulnerable as the worldwide
population appears around 7,000. One more interesting fact is they are practically
blind. They have tiny eyes, lack lenses, and can do little more than
distinguish between light and dark. What a fascinating world!
22 February – Kratie – Peace Hut – 86 km
From Kratie, we opted for the river trail. The
Mekong River forms the heart of Cambodia, and 80% of Cambodians still follow a
traditional lifestyle. Our route felt like a never-ending village, past people living
simple lives by fishing and farming rice. The Khmers have a close connection to
family and generally live together in extended families. With Cambodians loving
big families, plenty of kids were running amok.
Towards the end of the day, The Peace Hut signalled
the end of our day’s ride. The Peace Hut was a pleasant surprise and came with two
basic nipa huts on stilts right on the banks of the Mekong River. The two rooms
had mats for sleeping and a small bamboo deck to unwind and watch the river. In
addition, a bamboo viewing platform was the perfect place to enjoy our nightly
beer. All at $2 per person!
23-24 February - Peace Hut – Kampong Chan -
40 km
Shortly after departing, our path crossed the
river. It then ran along the opposite bank to Kampong Cham, a short but exciting
ride. The Mekong Hotel was a good choice offering $15 air-con rooms with river vistas.
The next day was spent in Kampong Cham, as it
turned out a relaxed place to hang out and enjoy our last day of cycle touring.
A short cycle took us to the bamboo bridge, rebuilt each year after the rainy
season. The Mekong River separates Kampong Cham town from Koh Paen. However,
the river becomes too shallow in the dry season for a ferry. So, the island’s
residents each year build a seasonal, kilometre-long bamboo bridge.
At first, the plan was to cycle from Kampong
Cham to Phnom Penh. However, the ride into the city came with horrendous
traffic. Furthermore, the ride is mainly along a highway, which doesn’t make a good
combination for cycle touring. We thus arranged a minivan to take us into the
city, making it a more enjoyable way to end the holiday.
25-27 February - Kampong Cham – Phnom Penh
(by minivan)
The minivan picked us up at 9h00, and with
bikes strapped to the rear, it headed to Phnom Penh, where we were relieved to
arrive, finding all four bikes still intact.
Megan and Erma’s last few days were spent
shopping, eating, and doing a few things not done previously. However, enough
time remained to re-visit the morning market, where ladies fried and steamed
their respective delicacies. Through a cloud of steam, we watched early morning
shoppers filling their bags or eating from the endless array of vendors where
pots and pans were clanging, steaming, bubbling and sizzling.
With Megan and Erma’s bikes boxed and
shopping done, they soon headed to the airport to catch their return flight to
Namibia.
913 Km – 25 Days
2 February – 27 February 2019
PHOTOS
2 February - Phnom Penh
Megan and Erma arrived in Phnom Penh late on
2 February and must’ve been exhausted after their long flight. Still, it was lovely
to meet them; unfortunately, their flight landed in the afternoon, and there remained
little time to do anything of note. There barely remained enough time to head
to the promenade, where one could stroll along in the company of Khmers doing
their daily exercises.
Phnom Penh has a wonderful location on the Tonle
Sap River, which connects Tonle Sap Lake to the Mekong. The two rivers meet at
Phnom Penh, making it a convenient place to watch the river flow past.
Our evening meal was at the night market, where
one could pick delicacies from the countless stalls and then enjoy them sitting
on mats provided for such a purpose. As expected, Erma and Megan turned in
early as they departed Namibia 24 hours earlier and were, understandably, exhausted.
3 February - Phnom Penh
Together with my jetlagged friends, we were
up at dawn. Not only to stroll towards the Royal Palace but
to make the best use of the early morning light. It’s such a pleasure being out
at that time of the morning. As Kipling said, “The dawn came up like
thunder” while strolling past
the immensely popular Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine, where people prayed for good
luck. Even at such an early hour, devotees were lighting candles, and the smell
of incense was already thick in the air.
We wandered the grounds of Wat Ounalom, the
headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. Founded in 1443, we understood the head of
the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lived on-site. The stupa is further rumoured
to contain an eyebrow hair of the Buddha.
Later, once the bikes were reassembled, Megan
and Erma explored the city’s famous sights by tuk-tuk. Janice and I did a few
outstanding chores, and before knowing it, time came to head to the river for a
sunset cruise. Armed with a few beers, we boarded a ferry via a narrow
gangplank and spent a few enjoyable hours on the river watching the sun set
over this famous river.
Supper was done in true Khmer style by
ordering various dishes and sharing them amongst the four of us. The frog was
delicious, as were the salad spring rolls and the other dishes.
4 February – Phnom Penh - Koh Dock - 52 km
Preparations for Chinese New Year were in
full swing as our little group pedalled out of Phnom Penh in the direction of
Koh Dach, or Silk Island, situated at the confluence of the Tonle and Mekong
Rivers. The route to the ferry was approximately nine kilometres. It took us
through typical Cambodian suburbs, wooden houses on stilts and hand-drawn carts
pulled and pushed by manpower. Greetings of “Happy New Year!” were called from
doorways, and others burned paper money offerings in honour of ancestors. Temples
were hives of activities as Chinese New Year was when people gifted monks with vast
quantities of food.
On reaching the ferry, a short ride took us
to the island known for its silk weaving. Cambodia has a lengthy silk-weaving
history, believed to date to pre-Angkorian times. Albeit a dwindling art, Koh
Dach was still dotted by weaving communities. On the ferry, a lady befriended us
and offered to show us her home where they spun silk. We watched in fascination
as they went about their trade, and were in awe of their ability to weave such
intricate patterns.
A country lane circumnavigates the island,
making for a pleasurable ride and an opportunity to drink coconut juice. The
lady skilfully hacked open the coconuts using a machete. Once finished, we handed
them back to the vendor, who cracked them open and crafted spoons from the side
to scrape out the coconut meat within. The path led past small kids, giving the
impression they were a tad nervous seeing four “farangs” on bicycles.
Following a light lunch of pork pau and ice
cream, our slightly dusty path took us to the ferry. Unfortunately, Erma
discovered her seat stem broken, and we hailed a tuk-tuk to take her to our
abode. On arrival at the guesthouse, Erma and I searched for a bike shop.
Still, the majority were closed due to Chinese New Year celebrations. I thought
us super lucky to find a shop still open to replace the seat stem. Then, back
to have a shower before returning to the night market.
5 February – Phnom Penh – Oudong(k) – 52 km
Leaving Phnom Penh was on Chinese New Year
and in the direction of Oudonk. Getting out of Phnom Penh was surprisingly effortless,
and I was impressed by how well my friends handled the horrendous Phnom Penh traffic,
which can intimidate newcomers.
Soon, the hectic road spat us out on a country
lane and past fascinating brick-making kilns. Our route took us past rural
areas where kids still rode a “broom-horse” or played “kick the flip-flop”, the
rules of which still elude me. Roadside stalls sold tamarind and lotus seeds, which
were not as tasty as anticipated. But, to the surprise of one eatery owner,
four foreign women on bicycles stopped and ordered noodle soup. The soup was
delicious, albeit prepared using instant noodles, but they were forgiven as it
was, after all, Chinese New Year.
With renewed energy, we set off and came upon
the remarkable Wat Sowann Thamareach. This wasn’t a traditional temple but seemed
a copy of an ancient one. The buildings were exquisite with amazing light
inside; still, it appeared little known.
A country lane led to Phnom Udong, past a
hill topped by spires of stupas resembling a fairy castle. The stupa on the central
hill was rumoured to house the remains of past kings and once at the top stunning
scenes greeted us. Such vistas seldom came without first having to ascend a few
stairs. My friends took the stairs in their stride and never complained about
being dragged up a hill after a day on the bike.
From Phnom Udong, a short ride took us to
Oudonk which sported a few places to stay and we picked one across the road
from a restaurant. So came to an end our first day of riding. Kudos to Janice,
Megan and Erma, who rode like seasoned cycle tourers, never complaining even
when the road was poor.
6-7 February - Oudongk – Kampong Chhnang – 55
km
On waking, our room had been invaded by ants.
Just about the whole shebang was covered in ants, from our snacks to the towels!
I dressed in a great hurry to take my panniers outside, only to discover I’d not
only the proverbial ants in my pants but real ones. The pants were promptly
ripped off but I was already covered in ant bites by then! Phew!
The way was unpleasantly congested, but the
lack of minor roads made us continue along the highway, only turning off once
to follow a rural route through the countryside. On rounding a corner, Megan
slipped in the loose sand and landed herself in a ditch in a cloud of dust.
Before she could dust herself off, the entire community was there to help. Mercifully,
she was unhurt and apart from a dirty bum and bruised ego, all was good. Not
much further, a shady coconut seller allowed a breather. The lady (as always) hacked
it open so one could eat the flesh inside. Janice wanted to try the “hacking
open” but nearly chopped her thumb off! Clearly, she needed a great deal more
machete practice. Before we proceeded to Kampong Chhnang, her wound was cleaned
and bandaged as best we could.
The Garden Guesthouse, a real traveller’s
lodge, lured us in. Janice and I caught a tuk-tuk to the health care centre where
they cleaned her wound and re-bandaged it. An additional day was spent in Kampong
Chhnang to allow Janice to get an anti-tetanus injection and investigate the
nearby floating village.
The next morning, Janice and I woke early to go
to the health care centre where she received the necessary injection. Better safe
than sorry. Afterwards, Janice, Megan and Erma took a boat to the floating
village, and I returned to our establishment to take care of a few chores.
8 February – Kampong Chhnang – Ponley – 55 km
As Chhnang means pottery in Khmer, it wasn’t
surprising to find pottery in the area. Our first stop was at the pottery community
of Andong Russey. Andong Russey was a small settlement where pots were stacked
high under stilted homes. Stopping at various home industries, we found the
process fascinating and photogenic. We clicked away before waving the families
goodbye and headed further north. The route continued past an old Khmer Rouge
abandoned airport, a complex built by the KR with the help of Chinese
engineers. I understood the airport was never used and is still in good
condition. No exploring was done.
Our path followed country roads past tiny
hamlets where people still pumped water from wells. En route, we stopped
spotting a young man scrambling up a makeshift bamboo ladder fixed to a sugar
palm tree. It seemed containers were left in the tree overnight and full ones were
collected in the morning. After being offered a sip, I was initially apprehensive
but found it sweet and surprisingly delicious. The juice is boiled to make palm
sugar.
The route continued past rice drying in the
sun and the ever-present Buddhist temples. Farmers herd cattle along dusty roads
as both kids and parents looked up in surprise as four foreign women pedalled
past on loaded bicycles. Even the dogs looked too surprised to give chase.
A hawker provided watermelon which the lady peeled
and cut up for us to enjoy. Janice, for obvious reasons, wasn’t allowed anywhere
close to the knife. The watermelon was served with a side plate of sugar, salt
and chillies, a rather unusual combination.
Then, on to the tiny community of Ponley
where our arrival was in oppressing heat. The heat made exhausting riding and I
think all were happy to find an air-con room to unwind the remainder of the
day.
9 February – Ponely – Kampong Luong floating
Village – 35 km
Departing Ponely was in the company of
krama-clad ladies on bicycles and past stalls selling fruit we’d never seen
before. Milk fruit or star apple is a round purple fruit with a soft inside and
a vague blueberry taste. Other shops sold sugar discs made from sugar palm juice,
fermented vegetables, and dried buffalo meat. Being weekend, several wedding
ceremonies were encountered. It looked as if the entire wedding party was
dressed in matching, brightly coloured silk costumes.
A road sign pointed to Kampong Luong. A few
kilometres later boats waited to take people to and from the floating village
of Kampong Luong. Arranging to leave our bicycles at their “office” was an
uncomplicated affair. We hopped on a boat past countless floating homes to a
homestay. Being a floating home, space was at a premium and the owner pointed us
to two teeny rooms with mattresses on the floor and much-needed mosquito nets
above. Sitting on the veranda, watching life in a floating village play out in
front of us, wasn’t only pleasant but an eye-opener.
It looked as if kids who could hardly walk
could quite comfortably row a boat. Kampong Luong was like any other settlement
and included shops, petrol stations, schools, temples, and a police station.
The only difference being the whole shebang floated. More astonishing, it
appeared the water was used for pretty much everything, from having a bath to
doing dishes and laundry. At the same time, everything seemed to go into the
water! Staying in the village was a fascinating insight into the people’s lives.
10 February – Kampong Luong – Pursat – 65 km
First thing in the morning, a boat taxi
collected and dropped us where we stowed the bicycles. Right from the start, our
route followed rural roads past scrawny white cows and ornate temples. Houses
on stilts sold petrol by the litre in Coke bottles while others were de-husking
rice. Makeshift shops sold water and penny line sweets; others offered noodle
soup and drinks more potent than water.
The hot and dusty day left us covered in red
dust and required stopping at every shop to fill our water bottles. Spotting the
ice cream man, we were as excited as the village kids and fell in line to wait
our turn under scores of giggles. Pursat made a welcome sight and a place where
one could still find a hotel with a bathtub!
11 February – Pursat – Moung Ruessei – 62 km
Exploring an old and spooky brickmaking
factory made an exciting start to the day while monks and their helpers
collected food. Interestingly, when collecting food monks don’t say thank you.
The giving of alms isn’t considered a charity; instead, the giving and
receiving of alms create a spiritual connection between the monastic and lay
communities. The public has a responsibility to support the monks physically. In
turn, the monks are obligated to spiritually support the community—what a
lovely philosophy.
In the midday heat, temples made welcome
resting areas as they usually had shade and toilets. On this occasion, it
turned out a fascinating monastery with boy monks. Even though the young monks
were incredibly shy, we snapped a few pics. Stopping wasn’t only to fill water bottles
but to sample what was available at roadside eateries. The day’s favourite was
fruit, especially the sweet and tasty pineapples.
In Moung Ruessei, the Oudom Hotel, with its pristine
swimming pool, made comfortable accommodation and staying thus a no-brainer. Supper
was at a nearby restaurant where we met Steve, an incredibly generous Cambodian
who not only bought us beer but proceeded to pay for our meal. Thank you, Steve.
12-13 February - Moung
Ruessei – Battambang – 86 km
In anticipation of a long day of biking, we
made an early start. Our route followed a secondary road, but the paved road
soon vanished and turned into a rough, bumpy dirt track. Still, it remained an
interesting ride past old temples and villagers going about their daily routines.
An old rice mill made a fascinating stop as inside it had an array of shoots,
funnels, gears and belts.
Not much further, a lady peddled grilled rats
from a wicker basket balanced on her head, and one was, nervously, purchased at
a mere 1000 riel ($0.25 US). Everyone tried a piece, and all agreed grilled rat
was delicious and better than chicken. The meat was tender and had a faint
barbeque taste. I was impressed when Megan tried a small piece, albeit under
the impression it was a squirrel. After learning it was indeed rat, she
politely declined one more portion of tender thigh!
Realising our chosen route would take far too
long, we returned to the main road making an unnecessary 20-kilometre detour.
Thankfully, a stiff tailwind assisted us en route to Banan. The excellent road
cycled on came to an end, but we persevered until reaching Banan, home to an ancient
hilltop temple. This Angkor-era mountaintop temple was constructed between the
11th and 12th centuries. Construction was started by King Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya
Varman II (1050-1066) and completed by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). From
Banan temple, a pleasurable 22-kilometre ride took us to Battambang where we bunked
down at the Royal Hotel.
By morning, a tuk-tuk ride made exploring the
outlying Ek Phnom temple easy. En route, we stopped at the rice paper makers to
eat freshly made spring rolls and passed hardworking ironmongers. At sunset, we
headed for the hills to watch a gazillion bats fly out of their cave searching
for food. A truly spectacular sight.
14 February – Battambang – Siem Reap – By
boat - 14 km
We were up remarkably early to catch the boat
across the Tonle Sap Lake to Siem Reap. In the wet season, this involves a
short and uncomplicated cycle to the ferry pier. However, in the dry season, the
water is far too shallow, and it took a 50-kilometre tuk-tuk ride to get us to
the boat. Albeit a fascinating trip, it remained an awfully long day on a boat
and all were happy to reach the end of the boat ride.
A short pedal led into bustling Siem Reap.
The Jiu Yan Wu Angkor Hotel was considered a bargain at $20 a twin room,
including a pool and breakfast. The evening was spent in lively and touristy
Pub Street where we not only ate but did a wee bit of shopping.
15 February – Siem Reap
The previous night a tuk-tuk with Mr Lam at
$30 was organised. The tour included a morning at the Angkor temples and
returning to the Bayon temple at sunset. Being in the company of Megan was a great
advantage as she guided us through shooting inside temples. I will be forever
grateful to her for showing me the light! By evening a bottle of wine was
polished off before supper, making the evening even more fun.
16 February - Siem Reap
Templed out, all slept late. I went for a run,
and we later met for breakfast. Then, each went off in their respective
directions. The previous night’s wine gave a taste of the good life, and an
additional bottle was purchased to take to the restaurant. It turned out a fun
evening - so much fun was had, the bill was paid twice!
17 February – Siem Reap – Svay Leu temple –
67 km
After breakfast, we pedalled out of Siem Reap.
It took no time at all to find a rural path leading through tiny hamlets and
seldom-visited areas. Ladies carted toddlers (to school?) in homemade wooden
carts. Our dirt path was shared by pot salesmen, tuk-tuks and ladies leading
cattle to greener pastures. Kids sold boiled corn which made convenient
snacking, after which we popped into a temple and found the monks preparing
their midday meal. A few pics were snapped before continuing our ride.
Eventually, landing in Svay Leu, permission was
granted to sleep at the temple. Sleeping at the temple turned out a fascinating
experience as monks prepared to celebrate Meak Bochea.
Meak Bochea is a religious holiday in Cambodia commemorating Buddha’s final
sermon. To the villagers’ surprise, four foreigners made their way to a nearby
restaurant where noodle soup was ordered following a lengthy discussion and
sign language.
18 February - Svay Leu Temple – Preah Vihear
– 98 km
I can’t say we’d a peaceful night’s sleep as
the temple dogs howled the best part of the night and temple music played (what
felt like) the entire night. Early morning, chickens started crowing, which also
got the dogs going. I guess it was time to get up anyhow. The commotion led to an
earlier than usual start, first stopping for breakfast which consisted of yet another
bowl of noodle soup.
The section between Svay Leu and Preah Vihear
was a longer than usual day of riding. Mercifully, the day was cloudy, making for
pleasurable cycling and stopping numerous times to fill our water bottles.
There weren’t many photo stops as we stuck to
the task at hand and headed to Preah Vihear. The road passed huge cashew nut
plantations where these strange fruits were in the process of becoming ripe. A
great deal of the way was either planted under cashew nuts or were cashew nut
nurseries. Towards the end of the day, four hot, tired, dusty farangs slinked
into tiny Preah Vihear, ready to devour whatever was on offer.
19 February – Preah Vihear – Chhaeb - 57 km
Our leisurely start was due to the previous
day’s long ride. Following a breakfast of rice porridge, we continued our quest.
Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple where Meak Bochea was being celebrated.
Devotees brought food to the temple and monks and nuns sat on mats, enjoying
the feast.
After taking a few pics and thanking the
monks, we continued in the direction of Chhaeb along a somewhat desolate
stretch of road. Not a great deal was happening, and good time was made, only
stopping to fill our water bottles. The weather was sweltering; even motorbike
salesmen pulled off to rest in the shade. The four crazy women, nevertheless,
continued and reached Chhaeb relatively early.
A guesthouse provided reasonable
accommodation and only a short walk to the temple where monks weren’t only
chanting but where a small fanfare was in progress. We hung around, waiting for
the full moon, but nothing came of our full moon photoshoot as the sky was too
hazy. Megan, not surprisingly, managed to get a few brilliant shots. Returning
to our abode, a street-side eatery provided beer, fried noodles and rice.
20 February – Chhaeb – Stung Treng – 88 km
Before leaving one more visit was paid to the
temple, but it turned out already too late to get any decent pictures. Megan
went far earlier and captured the best pics of the trip.
The way to Stung Treng was effortless riding and
the weather was in our favour. The tarmac was excellent, and the route gently
undulating, just enough to keep the boredom at bay. Loading the bikes, cycling,
stopping to fill our water bottles or admiring the landscape became a familiar
routine.
Our day’s ride finished in Stung Treng, where
the Golden River Hotel, situated right on the river, was home that night.
21 February – Stung Treng – Kratie – by
minivan
The stretch between Stung Treng and Kratie was
130 kilometres and offered little of interest. While considering taking a bus,
our decision was made even easier when we were approached and offered a minivan
ride to Kratie. The quote of $20 per person, including bicycles, was considered
a fair price. Once in Kratie, a tuk-tuk ride took us to the pier, where boats departed
to the river dolphin viewing. The skipper didn’t have to go far as the dolphins
were playing close by, and we sat watching them in fascination.
It needs mentioning that the Irrawaddy
dolphins are rare freshwater dolphins. Unlike most dolphin species with long
noses and pointed features, the Irrawaddy species have a blunt nose, straight
mouth, rounded tail, and fins. It’s said genetically; these dolphins are closely
related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting! Although called the Irrawaddy
River dolphin, I understood they are not actual river dolphins but oceanic
dolphins living in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and estuaries. By
now, it has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including the
Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are highly vulnerable as the worldwide
population appears around 7,000. One more interesting fact is they are practically
blind. They have tiny eyes, lack lenses, and can do little more than
distinguish between light and dark. What a fascinating world!
22 February – Kratie – Peace Hut – 86 km
From Kratie, we opted for the river trail. The
Mekong River forms the heart of Cambodia, and 80% of Cambodians still follow a
traditional lifestyle. Our route felt like a never-ending village, past people living
simple lives by fishing and farming rice. The Khmers have a close connection to
family and generally live together in extended families. With Cambodians loving
big families, plenty of kids were running amok.
Towards the end of the day, The Peace Hut signalled
the end of our day’s ride. The Peace Hut was a pleasant surprise and came with two
basic nipa huts on stilts right on the banks of the Mekong River. The two rooms
had mats for sleeping and a small bamboo deck to unwind and watch the river. In
addition, a bamboo viewing platform was the perfect place to enjoy our nightly
beer. All at $2 per person!
23-24 February - Peace Hut – Kampong Chan -
40 km
Shortly after departing, our path crossed the
river. It then ran along the opposite bank to Kampong Cham, a short but exciting
ride. The Mekong Hotel was a good choice offering $15 air-con rooms with river vistas.
The next day was spent in Kampong Cham, as it
turned out a relaxed place to hang out and enjoy our last day of cycle touring.
A short cycle took us to the bamboo bridge, rebuilt each year after the rainy
season. The Mekong River separates Kampong Cham town from Koh Paen. However,
the river becomes too shallow in the dry season for a ferry. So, the island’s
residents each year build a seasonal, kilometre-long bamboo bridge.
At first, the plan was to cycle from Kampong
Cham to Phnom Penh. However, the ride into the city came with horrendous
traffic. Furthermore, the ride is mainly along a highway, which doesn’t make a good
combination for cycle touring. We thus arranged a minivan to take us into the
city, making it a more enjoyable way to end the holiday.
25-27 February - Kampong Cham – Phnom Penh
(by minivan)
The minivan picked us up at 9h00, and with
bikes strapped to the rear, it headed to Phnom Penh, where we were relieved to
arrive, finding all four bikes still intact.
Megan and Erma’s last few days were spent
shopping, eating, and doing a few things not done previously. However, enough
time remained to re-visit the morning market, where ladies fried and steamed
their respective delicacies. Through a cloud of steam, we watched early morning
shoppers filling their bags or eating from the endless array of vendors where
pots and pans were clanging, steaming, bubbling and sizzling.
With Megan and Erma’s bikes boxed and
shopping done, they soon headed to the airport to catch their return flight to
Namibia.
