169 Thailand (22)
9
January – 20 January 2024
1 377 Kilometres – 22 Days
PHOTOS
MAP
9
January - Jomtien – Bang Saen Beach – 83 km
It was already past midday when I finally set out, and I was determined to stick to rural roads and avoid the chaotic traffic that plagues the route between Pattaya and Bangkok. Despite the challenges, I navigated my way through the winding roads until I finally arrived at the tranquil Bang Saen Beach in Chon Buri. The sense of relief was palpable as I found a comfortable $10 room and settled in for the night, feeling as happy as the proverbial pig.
As the sun began its descent towards the horizon, I walked the short distance of less than 200 meters to the beach. I sat on the sand, feeling the warmth of the grains between my toes and the gentle breeze of the sea on my skin. The colours of the sky changed with each passing moment, creating a breathtaking spectacle that left me feeling blessed and privileged to be back on the road.
10
January – Bang Saen Beach – Chachoengsao – 65 km
The first 30 kilometres of the ride
ran along a scenic part of the Gulf of Thailand partly via a road built over
the ocean. The Northern Gulf of Thailand is shallow, with abundant birdlife and
fishing opportunities. Afterwards, I veered inland along the Bang Pakong River but
couldn't find country lanes, which is a rarity in Thailand.
Interestingly, authorities have
persuaded fishermen on the Bang Pakong River to stop shrimping to protect the
Irrawaddy dolphins, and 30 to 40
fishing boats have been modified to offer dolphin sightseeing tours. I was
hoping to find a path along the river, but it never happened, and I never saw
the dolphins.
Heavy traffic
made cycling unpleasant, so I called it a day in Chachoengsao. I found an inexpensive room and needed to look at the map more closely.
My early arrival
allowed me to explore the area, including the 100-year-old Banmai Market.
Nowadays, the market is only a weekend market, but traders live inside this
ancient riverside complex. The light was beautiful. Back in my room, it
was time to do the dreaded laundry.
11 January - Chachoengsao
– Amphoe Nong Khae, Saraburi – 110 km
From
Chachoengsao, it was a much better day of cycling as I had plenty of rural
roads to choose from. It was an absolute pleasure to pedal past rice paddies
and tiny hamlets.
At one point, I picked up a red cloth, which I thought of using as a flag, but it was too large, and I tied it to the rear rack, hoping it would make me more visible. For most of the day, my chosen path ran alongside a canal until, after 110
kilometres, it spat me out at a busy intersection where I decided to end my
ride. I was surprised to find a fancy room for only $14! Hahaha, or as fancy as
a $14 room can be.
12
&13 January - Nong Khae – Lopburi – 80 km
I took
far too many pictures during the ride to Lopburi. It was a brilliant ride,
partly along the railway line and partly next to a canal. Lopburi is an ancient
town filled with old ruins that are all within easy walking distance. Nowadays,
the old city is home to ordinary Thai life and a group of monkeys, who even
have a temple of their own.
I'm
glad that I arrived early as it was pretty warm (35°C). The $10 room that I
rented wasn't very fancy, but it had a fan, which was good enough for me. I
felt like all I did was eat since I arrived, but there are so many good food
options in Lopburi.
There's
much to see in Lopburi and I decided to stay one more day. The windows of my
room couldn’t open, as the monkeys were notorious for breaking into rooms
through the windows despite having bars on them. They can be quite a menace.
The rest of the day was spent exploring the ruins of Lopburi.
14
January – Lopburi – Khok Mai Den – 110 km
Not
much happened en route to Khok Mai Den. I again followed a canal, or maybe it
was a river, meaning there were many luminous green rice paddies and people
fishing. I must have been way off the beaten track as I encountered very few
villages. I loved the ride and felt energetic and happy to be out there. What a
privilege.
Of
course, there’s always the ever-present Buddhist temple with its bright yellow
Dharma flags blowing in the wind. These temples make peaceful and convenient
stopping places, offering plenty of shade. Eventually, after 110 kilometres, I
veered towards the highway to find food and accommodation.
At my
accommodation I realised you'll hardly ever find a bed in Asia facing the door
as it's the worst possible position, according to feng shui principles. People
who practice feng shui call it the ‘dead man’s position’ or the ‘coffin
position’ because it resembles how we carry the dead through the door.
I was well
into the Thai lifestyle and ordered a takeaway from 7-Eleven. Delivery is free, and even with a good tip, I
still considered it a bargain as I didn't feel like getting on the bike to
cycle the two kilometres to the shop in darkness.
15
January – Khok Mai den – Nakhon Savan (Anodard Hotel) 53 km
I
dawdled and didn't leave my comfortable bungalow until past nine in the
morning.
My
first destination for the day was the Khok Mai Den Ancient City ruins, located
just two kilometres away. The city was founded between 457 and 957 AD during
the Thawarawadi period. I parked my bike at the temple and walked to the top of
the hill to explore the ruins. Upon my return, I found a bag hanging from my
bike's handlebars containing rice and soup. The monk who left it gave me a
Buddhist talisman as well. I expressed my gratitude and proceeded to a roadside
shrine to eat the food, but I couldn't stomach the soup, which was a watery
broth with bird-like chunks.
From
the ruins, I followed the Chao Phraya River upstream to its origin at the
confluence of the Ping and Nan rivers in Nakhon Sawan. From here, the river
flows 372 kilometres south to the Gulf of Thailand, and the surroundings are
mostly farmland with small villages. The fried banana snack is a popular treat
in these hamlets, and petrol is sold in Coca-Cola bottles from hole-in-the-wall
shops. Although most rice farming is still done manually, I saw farmers using
drones to spread either seeds or fertiliser, but I couldn't determine which
one.
16
January - Nakhon Savan - Tha Makhuea – 92 km
Biking
out of Nakhon Savan was amidst heavy traffic and workers installing decorations
for the upcoming Chinese New Year festivities. A path next to the Ping River
took me north through small riverside villages. I passed by sleeping cats and
dogs and chickens pecking in the dirt. Women were selling goods on their
bicycles, and I could hear monks chanting at colourful temples. The ride was
easy, and the kilometres flew by quickly.
At my
many water stops, people would shyly ask, "Where are you from?" and I
would respond, "Africa Thai" (one of the few Thai words I know). They
would usually exclaim, "Oh, you speak Thai!" The next question was
generally about my destination, but as I was not sure where I was headed, I replied
with the name of the next big town, to which they would always ask, "By
bicycle?" LOL. Eventually, they would ask, "Only one?" My answer
usually ended the conversation as a woman travelling alone by bicycle isn't something
rural Thai people seem to understand.
17-18
January - Tha Makhuea – Kamphaeng Phet – 56 km
The
way to Kamphaeng Phet was along a busy road with large trucks carrying
sugarcane to the mill, and the road surface was littered with sugarcane stalks.
My
visit to Kamphaeng Phet was to explore its UNESCO World Heritage Site, which
features ruins of structures dating to the 14th century, roughly the same time
as the better-known kingdom of Sukhothai, a bit further north. Three J
Guesthouse offers cute wooden bungalows at 350 THB. The guesthouse has a friendly
owner and heaps of information, and is set in a jumble of arty nooks and
crannies. Due to the short distance, I arrived early, but it was already 4 pm
before I put my laundry in the machine and went to the famous Heritage Park.
Unfortunately, it was too late to explore, but I snapped a few pictures before
they closed the gates.
The
following morning, I explored Kamphaeng Phet by bicycle, a vast area of ancient
ruins, trees, and shade - what a delightful experience!
19 - 20
January – Kamphaeng Phet – Sukhothai – 85 km
From Kamphaeng
Phet, I again opted for a rural path that ran past rice, banana, corn and
sugarcane plantations. The weather was perfect, and I biked along, hardly
stopping as the going was super easy.
Thailand's central region is a fertile plain
that provides easy cycling. It's also the birthplace of the culture and
language that defines Thailand today. Sukhothai is,
therefore, immensely touristy, and a budget room came at 400 THB. Once booked
in, I realised my wallet was nowhere to be found! I have two wallets, one
containing my day money, which is in my handlebar bag and the other holding my
bank cards and remaining cash. At my destination, there was no sign of my main
wallet! I freaked right there and then! It doesn't matter how much money you
have, without access to it you have nothing!
I contacted my
sister, Amanda: Please send money! But even that would take at least 24 hours.
Adding that I couldn't access my Thai bank app, made my stress levels go
through the roof! Many hours later, I had money in my wallet, and I hoped the
money transfers would show the next day. Phew! What a day! Thanks to Vitoonguesthouse2Fanroom, who allowed me to book in without paying - it is
much appreciated!
An
additional day was spent in Sukhothai as I waited for the money transferred to
show in my bank account and to investigate the area. Sukhothai was the capital
of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 14th centuries, and the area has
been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The
old walled city is home to some of the most well-preserved and impressive ruins
I've seen in Thailand. A delightful day was spent cycling the outlying area.
The park is open until 8 pm, and as I was staying across the road, I walked to
the nearby temples. The park was much nicer to explore at sunset than in the
midday heat.
21
January – Sukhothai – Phitsanulok 78 km
From Sukhothai,
a 78-kilometre ride took me to Phitsanulok. The route was relatively
uneventful, but I was fortunate to find a bike lane along the main road. With
the wind at my back, I made good progress and arrived in Phitsanulok early.
I was surprised
by the town, mainly because it reminded me of India. The old town, with its
famous Buddha and charming historical structures, also gave me an Indian vibe.
My accommodation
was quite intriguing, as it was bounded by the highway, the railway line, and a
mosque! Although immensely central, I thought it best to walk to the nearest
7-Eleven to buy a two-pack, as I didn’t think I would get much sleep. LOL.
22
January – Phitsanulok – Taphan Hin – 100 km
I was
pleasantly surprised by the comfort of my hotel despite the muezzin's call. I
didn't hear the muezzin but woke to the hustle and bustle of the street below
(it must have been that two-pack - LOL).
After
a breakfast of coffee, fried dough, bananas, and biscuits (included in the room
rate), I nervously attempted to cross the busy Main Road and I must have made such
a spectacle that cars stopped allowing me to pass. I continued south along the
Nan River, passing temples and people living on barges. The weather was
pleasant, and most rice paddies were still green, as they were near the river
and not dependent on rain.
After
100 kilometres, and spotting the New Hua Hin Hotel (which wasn't new, not even
by any stretch of the imagination), I decided to call it a day. The small
village was bustling as food vendors set up their stalls. After a quick shower,
I barely had to walk 100 metres to find a delicious noodle dish. It was such a
novelty that I opted for a takeaway.
23
January - Taphan Hin – Tha Tako – 98 km
The morning
market was already in full swing on departing the (not-so-new) New Hua Hin
Hotel. I continued south along the river, passing the, by now, familiar small
villages and bright green rice paddies.
Around
noon, I decided to change my route and head east instead of going through
Bangkok. However, I soon realised I needed to withdraw more cash, but Miss
Smarty Pants' decision to cancel her Bangkok Bank card meant I couldn't make a
cardless withdrawal. The word “fuck” left my mouth with alarming frequency! Fortunately,
I had just about enough money for a room and food. Still, I desperately needed
to stop at the nearest Bangkok Bank, 55 kilometres to the south, first thing in
the morning. The drama was never-ending!
24
January - Tha Tako- Nakhon Sawan – 48 km
By
morning, I blitzed the 50 kilometres to Nakhon Sawan, where I came to a
screeching halt in front of Bangkok Bank. Not much later, I walked out with
money and a new bank card in my wallet. Phew!
I
was so relieved that I booked into a nearby hotel and walked to the mall. My
wandering took me through the city park, a massive area with bike and walking
lanes, as well as basketball and volleyball courts. I love new destinations
where everything is unfamiliar, and I can't understand the language. The city was
buzzing with preparations for the Year of the Dragon celebrations, and red
lanterns and dragons were everywhere.
25 January – Nakhon Sawan - Chai Nat – 92
km
If I followed the main road, the day’s distance
would have been 62 kilometres, and if I followed the route suggested by Organic
Maps, it would have been 72 kilometres. Still, I wouldn’t have it any other
way.
I again followed the river, and a winding
river it was. The little settlements I encountered were old-worldly, and wooden
shophouses lined the path. I loved it. The Chao Phraya River is one of the main
rivers in Thailand and, like any other important waterway, it comes with an ancient
history. It’s a place where the temples are old and the boats long!
There was no need to stop in Chai Nat,
but it looked like a sizable town with inexpensive accommodation.
26 January – Chat Nai - Ang Thong – 100 km
The next morning, I followed the route
indicated by Organic Maps for about five kilometres before veering off onto a
smaller path. What a delight to make my way through these tiny hamlets where
cats, dogs and water monitors lay sleeping on the road. One can easily assume
they are dead. I tried to make a noise to warn them I’m coming, but their eyelids
or ears only flickered.
I dragged my heels a tad, and it must
have been near 4 pm when I arrived in Ang Thong. Shortly before the town, I
stopped at Wat Sukkasem Thammikaram, a 130-year-old
temple home to a 38.9-metre-high statue of Phra Siwali Mahalap. The statue can
be seen from many kilometres away. According to ancient belief, Phra Siwali
Mahalap brings good fortune and lottery results. Hence, villagers flock here to
pay homage and ask for blessings by offering honey, fresh fruit, and white or
fragrant flowers. The honey may have something to do with the swarm of bees
that annually nest under the arm of the statue, and hundreds of people visit
the temple during that time.
Finding inexpensive accommodation was
easy, and I soon spotted the popular budget Ang Thong hotel. I couldn’t wait to
get in the shower - as I have often said: a shower is never overrated.
Afterwards, I washed my cycling clothes in the wastepaper bin, and I’m sure
they never had such a clean bin. Then, I could finally walk to the 7-Eleven for
my evening beer and portion of vegetarian fried rice.
27-28 January – Ang Thong – Ayutthaya - 65
km
I had no intention of going to Ayutthaya
but ended up there anyway. Again, the way was mainly along a canal dotted by
typical Thai-style timber homes on stilts and, of course, numerous temples, one
more ornate than the other.
In Ayutthaya, I cycled to the train
station thinking of taking a train into Bangkok, but there was a two-hour wait
for the train and, instead, I sought out my old favourite Baan Lotus Guesthouse,
a converted old schoolhouse. I felt tired and only walked to the shop for food
and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.
29-30 January – Ayutthaya – Bangkok – 85
km
Although I wasn't feeling up to it, I
decided to cycle the 85 kilometres to Bangkok. Luckily, it was Sunday and the
traffic light. However, cycling into a city with a population of 11 million can
be pretty nerve-wracking. I was relieved to finally arrive at my destination,
but I chose to take the train from Bangkok to Pattaya as I had cycled that
route too many times before and wasn't in the mood for the traffic.
I slept so well that I woke up too late
to catch the train, but it wasn't a big deal since I enjoy spending time in
Bangkok.
31 January – Bangkok – Pattaya 15 km (by
train)
The previous evening, I made sure the
alarm was set and I cycled the five kilometres to the train station in the
dark. I was nervous because I wasn't sure if drivers could see me.
Getting the bicycle onto the train was
challenging since the door was relatively narrow, and it required careful
manoeuvring to get the bike into the coach. Three hours later, it took the same
effort to get off at Pattaya station.
Once I arrived at my room, the washing
machine worked overtime, and I cleaned the bike bags so they would be ready for
use after mid-March. I'm wondering which route I should take next, as there are
many exciting destinations.
