146 CAMBODIA (9.2) – Janice - Part 2
Phnom Penh - Thailand
301 Km - 7 Days
1 March – 7 March 2019
1 March – Phnom Penh – Angkor Borei – 93 km
Janice and I biked out of Phnom Penh amidst
hectic morning traffic and past men eating noodles soup from their haunches from
mobile carts. Twenty kilometres later, we were fortunately out of the thick of
things.
Having had enough of the congestion, we veered
off onto a smaller path running alongside the Tonle Sap River. Halfway through, Janice stopped and bought a new saddle, hoping it would solve her butt
problem. The road was mostly paved, and we encountered only a short stretch of
dirt road, so we arrived in Angkor Borei in good time.
2-3 March - Angkor Borei – Kampot – 103 km
Knowing it would be a tough cycling day, we
set out as early as possible. However, the Angkor Borei/Takeo ferry only got
underway at around 8h00. Packed in like sardines, the boat sped across the
lake, saving us a long and rough ride around the lake. Unfortunately, there was no paved
road connecting Takeo to the main road. We struggled along a sandy, rough track
until reaching the highway. Once there, the going became considerably more
manageable, and a good time was made in the direction of Kampot.
Unfortunately, 20 kilometres from Kampot, the
road deteriorated (to put it mildly) as a new road was being built. In the
company of other vehicles, we snaked our way around potholes, a cloud of dust trailing us,
making dreadfully slow progress. Covered in dust, Janice and I eventually biked
into Kampot and headed straight to Kampot River Bungalow. To our dismay, they
were full, but mercifully, a nipa hut on stilts next door at the Naga House was
available. Naga House is a beautiful riverside setup, featuring a wooden dock
over the water.
Staying the next day came easily as we couldn’t
drag ourselves away from such a beautiful setting.
4 March - Kampot – Sihanoukville – 105 km
Although February is the dry season in
Cambodia, rain usually falls during this time. Unfortunately, we haven’t had
any rain since departing Bangkok a month and a half ago. Over
three-quarters of Cambodia’s population relies primarily on subsistence
agriculture. Drought can thus push large numbers of people into poverty. For
us, the lack of rain made the ride a dry and dusty affair.
At first, the road was brand new and going
well. However, halfway to Veal Renh, we encountered the dreaded roadworks. We
found that nearly all vehicles preferred driving alongside the road rather than on it. Only
the minivan taxis seemed unfazed by the enormous potholes.
We pushed on regardless, following the
snaking traffic through a cloud of dust, eventually arriving in Sihanoukville during
peak hour. Unfortunately, Sihanoukville was nothing but a vast building
site. All the old and well-known guesthouses were gone, and, by then, either
empty lots or places where new ones were being constructed. I was relieved to find
the Big Easy still holding its own, albeit at the absorbent price of $30 a fan
room. Time to head to the islands, and that was exactly what we did.
5 March – Sihanoukville – Koh Rong (by ferry)
Arrangements were made to leave our bicycles
and panniers at the Big Easy and, armed with only one small bag; we headed to
the ferry port. In no time at all, we found ourselves on Koh Rong Island with its
crystal-clear water and laidback lifestyle. We lazed around and swam in the
lukewarm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. We ate at tables on the water’s edge
and did truly little apart from lounging about.
Eventually, the time came to return to the
mainland and Thailand, where Janice stowed her bicycle box and planned
to fly home to Cape Town, South Africa.
6 March - Koh Rong – Sihanoukville (by ferry)
The ample choice of ferries to the mainland made for a leisurely departure. Once in Sihanoukville, we collected our cycles and
panniers from the Big Easy and went on the hunt for alternative accommodation, as it was fully booked. Supper was at one of the beach restaurants
and, to me at least, it’s always a novelty to eat whilst wiggling my toes in
the sand.
Thailand (19) – Janice – Cambodian border to
Pattaya
15 Km – 8 Days
7 March – 14 April 2019
7-8 March - Sihanoukville – Klong Yai - 15 km
Out of visa time, a bus ticket was purchased from
Sihanoukville to the Thai/Cambodian border. The bus departed at 8 o’clock, and
we were ready to roll at an early hour. Unfortunately, the bus didn’t leave
until considerably later and, surprisingly, took us all the way to the border.
Border crossings can be tedious affairs, but all went well, and we were stamped
out of Cambodia and into Thailand without any problems. From the border, a mere
15 kilometres led to Klong Yai, which had accommodation and an exciting night
market.
The next morning, a Songthaew (a covered
pickup truck with open sides and seats along each side) took us to Trat.
Unfortunately, Janice wasn’t feeling well and had stomach problems
(it must’ve been from the previous night’s food). However, the ride was
inexpensive, and the Songthaew dropped us at the Trat bus station. From Trat,
busses ran to Pattaya.
Janice was terribly ill, and with at least
four hours to wait until the next bus, there wasn’t a good deal she could do
but try and lay down on the uncomfortable bus station plastic chairs.
Eventually, the bus arrived and the sun was long gone on arrival in Pattaya. In
darkness, we cycled the last few kilometres to Jomtien, bringing to an end
Janice’s holiday.
9-12 March - Pattaya
Being a day ahead of schedule, good use was
made of our time and on emerging at leisure we strolled to the beach. Janice,
by then, felt considerably better, and could do last-minute shopping, pack her
bike and get ready for her flight to Cape Town. But, unfortunately, far too
soon the time came for her to head to the airport for her flight to South
Africa.
13-14 March - Pattaya
I’d precisely one day to do laundry and
repack bags before heading to Bangkok, where I met Rouen (brother-in-law) and
Micah (niece and godchild) for a three-week backpacking holiday in Thailand.
The easiest way of getting to Bangkok was to catch a bus to the airport and,
from there, a bus directly to Khao San Road, leaving a short meander to the
Riverline Guesthouse, my abode of choice.
