Photo by Grant Webb
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| Photo by Grant Webb |
1-2 SOUTH AFRICA & LESOTHO
1 767 Kilometres – 34 Days
27 March - 4 May 2007
PHOTOS
27 March - Cape Town, South Africa - Kleinmond
On
a remarkably uneventful day, I embarked on a life-changing journey that would unknowingly last more than a decade. Ernest and I waved goodbye to friends and family
and set out by bicycle for a ride through Africa. Unfortunately, I returned
home shortly afterwards to take care of unfinished business. I only joined
Ernest in Kleinmond that evening, making the day feel like any other day. In
the process, I realised my bicycle was too heavily laden and wisely discarded a
few items I believed were of utmost importance just the day prior. Once the necessary
forms were signed, my sister dropped me in Kleinmond, a small coastal village, where
I’d arranged to meet Ernest at the campsite.
Ernest enjoyed his new freedom so much that he drank too many beers during his ride. This made
him so careless that he left behind his backpack containing all his valuables after
ordering a takeaway meal. The kind owner of the Fish & Chips shop drove to
the campsite to return his bag. How immensely kind of him. His action also
marked the start of innumerable random acts of kindness, which continued during
our travels.
28
March - Kleinmond - Hermanus – 38 km
Packing
up was at leisure, the first of many to follow. A short and effortless ride took
us to Hermanus, a seaside town known as a whale-watching destination. Ernest’s
sister, Olga, and friend Donovan met us for lunch and picked up the tab
afterwards. Later, Ernest and I cycled to our friends Dave and Kathy’s holiday flat,
which they generously offered us. I was happy with this luxury after a night of
camping.
29
March - Hermanus – Gansbaai (Goose Bay) - 53 km
Our
luxury abode made a late departure, and it took forever to get going. The route
led straight into the infamous south-easterly wind, a ferocious wind plaguing
the coastal regions. Popping into the Birkenhead Brewery in Stanford might not’ve
been the best idea. Upon leaving, the wind was of near gale force strength. It
took all my energy grinding into the wind to reach Gansbaai, a small fishing
community known as a cage-diving destination. Even in the high wind, we opted
to camp at the small campsite flush next to the ocean where I was sure our
tents would take off with us inside. Walking to a nearby restaurant took
holding onto each other and leaning into the wind using all our strength.
30
March - Gansbaai - Bredasdorp - 101 km
Amazingly
we survived the night, and the wind subsided ever so slightly during the night.
Happy with the slight break in the weather, packing up was a speedy affair
before hopping on the bikes in Pearly Beach’s direction. Although the wind wasn’t
as strong as the previous day, it was still howling and required all my
concentration and energy to keep going. Unfortunately, the dirt track from “The
Dam” to Bredasdorp was in poor condition, sandy and heavily corrugated. Exhausted,
I struggled up the hills, which made me wonder if this trip was such a good
idea.
The
campsite in Bredasdorp signalled the end of the day’s ride, and it dawned upon
me that embarking on a long bicycle ride without training was a stupid thing to
do. However, I considered it a tad late to have second thoughts and, with a
sore backside, pitched the tent and drained of all energy, crawled in.
31
March - Bredasdorp - Swellendam – 76 km
The
stretch between Bredasdorp and Swellendam was surprisingly hilly. A dirt road went
up and down hills, through farmlands and past surprised looking sheep. Unfortunately,
the weather was sweltering to such an extent, that the two newbies ran out of
water, and Ernest had to jump a fence to fetch water from a sheep trough.
Finding sheep in the Bredasdorp area wasn’t surprising as the town was
established on a farm in 1838. The town’s establishment marked the beginning of
South Africa’s merino sheep farming. To this day, sheep farming forms a large
part of the farming activities in the area.
Upon
crawling into picturesque Swellendam, the third oldest town in South Africa, I
was exhausted and flopped down at a corner store. I didn’t expect the day to be
quite as challenging. Only once a coke and plenty of water were consumed could I
proceed to the campsite, a gorgeous spot in the shadows of the Langeberg
Mountains.
1 April - Swellendam - Heidelberg – 60 km
I
woke refreshed and was ready and eager to tackle the remaining hills. Even
though I’d driven this road hundreds of times, I never realised how hilly the
route was as things looked different from a vehicle’s comfort. The loaded bike
made strenuous pedalling into the wind, especially uphill. Still, we struggled
onwards, churning our way up the many hills, only stopping at a few farmstalls
to fill our water bottles. The area is, for the most part, sparsely populated
and consists primarily of wheat and sheep farms.
Shortly
beyond midday, we pulled into tiny Heidelberg, which signalled the end of the
day’s ride and where overnighting was at a charming, Cape-Duch style
guesthouse. Heidelberg is another settlement that developed around a church in
the 1800s. Nevertheless, Heidelberg owes its existence mainly to the railway
line established in the early 1900s. Later, the town became a vital transport
link for the area’s wool, wheat, fruit, and tobacco industries.
2-3
April - Heidelberg – Still Bay - 72 km
Upon
departing, we experienced the friendliness of the Heidelbergers first-hand. A caring
lady stopped and offered us accommodation at Still Bay as she heard we were
heading there. This action made me wonder if I would ever do the same.
We
thanked her for her generous offer but seeing my family had a holiday house at
Still Bay; it wasn’t necessary to take her up on her offer. However, my Mom
also lived in the small seaside village of Still Bay, and thus worth the
detour. So, we returned to the hilly road, and our first stop was at Riversdale
to pick up refreshments. Then onward to Still Bay via a route where the hills
had names to the likes of “Skerpkoppies” and “Langhoogte”, roughly translating
to “Steep hill” and “Long hill”.
Eventually,
Still Bay and my mom’s house came into view. We were welcomed with a massive
bowl of macaroni cheese, one of my favourite dishes.
The
following day was spent at Still Bay trying to explain why a person would wish
to do such a thing as biking through Africa twice.
4 April – Still Bay - Mossel Bay – 100 km
Tailwind
assisted; Ernest and I left Still Bay to bike along a gravel path past Gourits
River to Mossel Bay. This picturesque ride sported ocean vistas and ran past
pristine natural vegetation. In the harbour town of Mossel Bay, camping was at The
Point Caravan Park. Once the tents were pitched and the usual greetings
extended, a walk into town provided supper. On our return to camp, we got
plenty of stares, and it appeared a rarity to see bicycle tourers. Our actions
were observed with great interest and came with the usual; “Where are you from?”
and “Where are you going?” I knew where I came from, but these questions made
me realise I’d no idea about my long-term plans. On returning from my 2005
Africa trip, I dreamt of a long cycle touring ride and tentatively started
gearing up for such an adventure. I sold two of my properties. The profit paid
all outstanding monies, leaving two fully paid houses rented out at the time. I
bought a new bike and ordered panniers and racks; still, no definite plans were
put in place as I was trying to sell my small business. In the process, I tried
to convince Ernest to join the adventure, but he wanted nothing of it and had
many excuses. I was thus astonished when he showed me the bicycle racks he
planned to make. He never mentioned he would be interested in joining me or
would be interested in undertaking such a trip.
5 April - Mossel Bay – Wilderness - 73 km
Mossel
Bay and Storms River form part of the Garden Route - a 300-kilometres stretch
along South Africa’s south-eastern coast.
As
the name indicates, the area was blessed with stunning scenery, ecologically
diverse vegetation and numerous estuaries and lakes. So we pedalled on, enjoying
the magnificent vistas. In George, we popped in at the bike shop to greet our
friend Julian and then made our way to Wilderness. The Ebb and Flow campsite is
one of my favourite places in South Africa. It is located on the Touws River in
the Wilderness National Park. Sadly, the camp shop was closed, but a fellow
camper offered us six beers, for which he refused payment. How generous of him.
In the late afternoon, a three-kilometre cycle took us to the village and a
restaurant. Returning in the dark after a glass or two of wine was quite
challenging. Mercifully camp was reached without incident and before getting
soaked.
6 April - Wilderness
I
emerged to a drizzle that continued through the day—a good excuse to lay in and
listen to the sounds of the Louries and numerous other birds.
Amanda,
my sister, visited us, and the three of us stayed put and enjoyed a day at
leisure.
7 April - Wilderness – Knysna - 53 km
The
day started promising and what should’ve been a comfortable ride became a
battle into a storm-strength wind. Luckily, Amanda transported our panniers, allowing
us to cycle unencumbered into Knysna. Knysna was home to the indigenous Khoisan
until Europeans arrived. I believe Knysna is a Khoisan word meaning “place of
wood” or “fern leaves”. Today Knysna is a trendy holiday town known for its
Oyster festival held in June/July each year.
The
town offered many attractions, one of which was the bustling waterfront. We did
the touristy thing and joined the crowds to watch the cricket and grab a bite
to eat. But, as the South Africans were heading towards disaster, we considered
it best to return to camp, where new arrivals invaded our site.
8
April - Knysna – Keurboom Strand - 47 km
Getting
out of Knysna was in brilliant weather but via a good climb out of the valley. Amanda
followed in the van and again transported our panniers, resulting in Ernest and
I having an enjoyable ride. The plan was to camp at Keurbooms River, but they
jacked up their prices, and we pedalled towards Keurboom Strand.
People’s
kindness amazed me, from offering to charge iPods to providing food and
accommodation.
9 April – Keurboom Strand – Storms River Village - 58 km
Shortly
beyond Keurboom Strand was Storms River, a highly scenic ride as the road ran
through the Tsitsikamma National Park. The area was littered with adventure
activities, from bridge swings and tubing to 5-day hiking trails.
This
part of the country offers excellent riding, especially on a sunny day and with
a breeze on your back. En route, we met my friend Nico who drove from Knysna to
meet us. Being an experienced cyclist, he didn’t come empty-handed but brought coke
and hot cross buns. Thanks, Nico. We chatted a little and, fuelled by the coke
and hot-cross buns, biked to Storms River Village. Camping was at the
Backpackers, a pleasant place sporting a substantial garden, green lawn and a friendly
atmosphere.
10 April - Storms River - Jeffreys Bay - 114 km
A
tailwind made easy cruising to J-Bay, a famous surfing town through the
Tsitsikamma National Park. It’s a stunning area through dense forests, and if
you add a long descent and a good tailwind, it makes a perfect day of cycling. Camping
was at Kabbeljous Campsite, and after pitching the tents, we searched out our friends
Mark and Riekie, where pizzas were ordered. Riekie was kind enough to do our
laundry, which stank too high heaven by then.
11 April - Jeffreys Bay – Colchester - 116 km
Upon
waking to a tailwind, the best was made of the favourable conditions, and we pushed
onward to Colchester. The rural roa, via Uitenhage, made slow going resulting
in getting to the tiny settlement of Colchester late. Instead of biking a
further five kilometres down a sandy track to where camping was available at
the Sundays River, we opted for digs in the village. Our choice was a good one,
as no sooner had we settled in than rain came pelting down. Rain bucketed down the
best part of the night, but our little wooden bungalow was cosy and warm.
12 April - Colchester – Paterson - 36 km
It
dawned clear and sunny despite the weather report predicting rain. We pointed
our bikes in the direction of Paterson. Shortly after getting underway the
route turned off the N2 and onto the N10 which veered inland. My legs felt
tired and I decided to call it a day at the small settlement of Paterson. The campsite
was in George and Helen’s backyard, beside the Red House farm stall. The site
couldn’t have been a more interesting affair as their yard came with chickens, ducks
and a gaggle of geese.
One
can’t travel in this area and not mention the sad life of Saartjie Baartman.
Born in 1789, her mother died when she was two and her father died a few years
later. Her partner, with whom she had a baby (who died), was murdered by a
Dutch colonist, following which she worked as a domestic help in Cape Town.
In
October 1810, though illiterate, Baartman allegedly signed a contract with
English ship surgeon William Dunlop, saying she would travel to England to participate
in shows. The reason was Saartjie Baartman had what was called “steatopygia”. This
condition resulted in highly protuberant buttocks due to a build-up of fat. Her
build made her a cause of fascination in Europe. She was exhibited at London’s
Piccadilly Circus venue and paraded around at freak shows in London and Paris. In
addition, wealthy customers paid for private demonstrations at their homes. As
a result, their guests could observe her at a close distance and even touch
her.
Sarah
Baartman died on 29 December, 1815, at age 26 (most likely due to syphilis,
alcoholism and pneumonia), but her exhibition continued. Her brain, skeleton
and sexual organs remained displayed in a Paris museum until 1974. Her remains
were repatriated and buried in 2002.
Today,
many see her as the epitome of colonial exploitation and racism. I can’t think
of a more tragic life.
13 April - Paterson – Middelton - 70 km
Following
a breakfast of roosterkoek and coffee from the Red House farmstall, the road led
over the Olifantskop Pass. The climb was steep, but the views at the top were spectacular,
we even spotted giraffes and monkeys. The area is known as the Blue Crane
Route, and approximately 350 species of birds appear in the area. Middleton was
a hamlet but sported a surprising guesthouse. The old railway station had been
converted into a guesthouse. Youngsters ran it from the Noupoort Drug Rehabilitation
Centre. We’d a delicious supper and then settled into our tents as the nights were
becoming downright freezing.
14 April - Middelton - Farm outside Cradock - 83 km
Leaving
was earlier than usual as we imagined having breakfast along the way. The first
settlement was Cookhouse, which was even smaller than Paterson but offered a
bite to eat. The going was dreadfully slow as the best part of the day was spent
pedalling into a stiff breeze. Heading up Daggaboersnek the going was even slower.
Once over the pass, a farm stall lured us in. A couple from Cradock recommended
a farm guest cottage roughly 25 kilometres before Cradock. We set out in that
direction, arriving at the farm shortly before sunset. The cabin turned out comfortable,
along with a highly accommodating host. No sooner had we settled in and Elza
brought us fresh milk, bread, cheese and fruit.
15 April - Farm - Cradock Spa - 33 km
Our
late departure was due to our overnighting plans at Cradock, situated along the
banks of the Great Fish River, barely 30 kilometres away and hence no rush. Cradock
has an old and fascinating history dating back thousands of years to when San
hunter-gatherers were the sole human inhabitants of southern Africa. Sadly, as the
entire South Africa, the area bears the scars of colonialism and apartheid. One
is known as The Cradock Four. Activists Matthew Goniwe, Sparrow Mkhonto, Fort
Calata and Sicelo Mhlauli—were abducted while travelling from Port Elizabeth to
Cradock in 1985. They were then taken to an unknown destination, assaulted,
killed and their bodies and the vehicle burnt. The Cradock Four Memorial is
located in Lingelihle, a township near Cradock. The monument was erected on 22 July 2000 to commemorate the Cradock Four. Regrettably, there are many similar
incidences in South Africa.
Upon
that sad note, we slinked into Cradock into a gusty breeze, and a quick lunch later
proceeded to Cradock Spa located approximately 4 kilometres outside town. The establishment
was a tad run down but still, a pleasant enough spot to spend a day soaking in
its natural sulphur waters rumoured to treat rheumatism.
16
April - Cradock Spa
The
following day was spent relaxing at the spa, only leaving to cycle the short distance
into the village to do the necessary shopping. There we uncovered an internet
café at the hairdresser and albeit slow, managed to send a few emails.
17
April - Cradock Spa – Hofmeyr - 62 km
The
day dawned clear and sunny as we biked off to the next settlement. The
countryside was vast and quite extraordinary. Ernest had no less than two flat
tires, but we soon came upon Hofmeyr a small community consisting of three dirt
lanes and one paved road. Typical of a small Karoo town, Hofmeyr sported tin-roofed
homes, Pepper willows, a church, a small shop, a school and a police station. Hofmeyr
surprisingly had a small B&B known as “The Pondokkie”, owned by friendly
Joey and Derick. Again, the evening was spent in front of the TV. At least this
time the South African cricket team won. Phew, I thought I would never see the
day!
18
April - Hofmeyr – Steynsburg - 46 km
Following
a wholesome breakfast, we were sent on our way by Derick with a copy of the
paper and a packet of fudge. Fuelled by sugar, we sailed up the hills and
through the shrubby vegetation between Hofmeyr and Steynsburg. The weather
forecast predicted thunderstorms and dark clouds made us pull into historic Steynsburg
which developed around a Church in 1872. Steynsburg was a tad bigger than
Hofmeyr and besides the historic church was home to Redefin Campsite. The
campsite came as a surprise, and included green lawns, barbeque pits, a covered
area, and neat, clean toilets and showers. Nothing came of the thunderstorms, hence
an excellent time to repair tubes and do other odd jobs. The weather looked
promising, and we set out to the little mini-mart to buy meat and wood for a
braai. Whilst admiring the extraordinary cloud formations, a sudden storm hit, and
the rain came bucketing down. We ran for cover and to close the tents, but, alas,
too late. The downpour lasted no more than an hour and a half, and as suddenly
as it occurred, the storm abated, and stars came out, revealing a cloudless
sky.
19
April - Steynsburg – Burgersdorp - 79 km
I
woke to a brilliantly clear morning and could hardly believe the previous night’s
storm. Once packed up, our route veered towards Burgersdorp only a slightly
larger town than Steynsburg, dating to 1869 when a Theological Seminary was
established. The Stynsburgers were curious but friendly, from the lady in the
bottle store, who gave Ernest a discount on the beer, to the cyclists who paid
us a visit at camp. The campsite at “The Dam” was gorgeous and tranquil under well-established
trees. The recreational area must’ve been quite popular in its hay day. Sadly, nearly
all facilities were dilapidated by the time of our visit. Still, Andries
Pienaar, the caretaker assured us a hot water cylinder had been delivered and merely
needed installation. This time we were more careful, and pitched our tents
under cover, and ensured all was closed when the storm came in. The city
slickers were learning fast.
20 April - Burgersdorp – Maletswai (formerly known as Aliwal North) - 67 km
Wanting
to get to the hot springs in Maletswai we were keen to get going. As I remember
from a previous visit many years earlier, the spa was lovely. The mild
temperature and big blue sky made perfect cycling. In Maletswai (Aliwal),
founded in 1850 and situated upon the Orange River we rode straight to the hot
springs, which was a disappointment. The facilities were dilapidated, ceilings were
falling in, metalwork was rusted, and the walls peeling. At least one indoor
pool was still operational, although everything was broken, from the rails to
the stairs. Still, it was a pleasurable experience to soak in its mineral-rich
water. Afterwards, a short cycle took us into town and to a restaurant. Not
knowing what to expect, finding the Spur up to its usual good standard came as
a relief. Returning and discussing how lucky we were to escape the storms, dark
clouds rolled in, making us pedal like the clappers. No sooner were we settled
into our tents than thunder and lightning started and rain came gushing down.
22
April – Maletswai – Zastron - 75 km
The
time was 12h30 before finally getting underway, as we first soaked in 34
degrees Celsius water and then headed into town to see if I could find camping
gas. No such luck, though, especially on a Sunday. Tailwind assisted, we meandered
towards Zastron a small agricultural town situated at the foothills of the
Aasvoelberg, known for the rare Cape vultures. Once there an idyllic campsite
was uncovered. The camp had green lawns dominated by giant trees, loads of
birdlife and piping hot water in the ablutions.
23 April – Zastron, South Africa – Mohale’s Hoek, Lesotho - 58 km
Ernest
dragged his heels, and the time thus past ten before riding out of Zastron. Our
first stop was at the tourist information, which doubled as the printer and the
bike shop. Ernest, tired of fixing punctures bought sealant to control the
ongoing flat tires for good. Seeing Zastron was 30 kilometres from the Lesotho
border, we headed towards tiny Lesotho along a gravel road. I say “tiny” as
Lesotho barely covers 30,355 km2.
Interestingly,
Lesotho is the only independent state globally that lies entirely above 1,000
metres in elevation. Its lowest point is 1,400 metres and over 80 percent of
the country lies above 1,800 metres. Lesotho is further entirely surrounded by
South Africa. Once across the border, Ernest noticed a pub and stopped to sample
a Maluti Beer. Then, with heavy legs, we proceeded to Mohale’s Hoek. Our dirt
road led over hills and past mountain villages and traditional mud huts under
thatch. Upon spotting us, kids came running through the fields calling
greetings of “Dumela, dumela”.
Once
in Mohale’s Hoek, we weakened at the idea of a room at the Monateng Hotel. Even
though the hotel was a tad neglected, they served ice-cold Maluti beers. Supper
was a great treat consisting of Pap (maise porridge cooked to be either runny,
soft or stiff.) accompanied by marog (a well-known traditional food cooked and
used like spinach) and beans.
24
April - Mohales’s Hoek – Wepener - 74 km
The
next morning our route took us via Mafeteng and Van Rooyen’s gate towards South
Africa. I was sad to leave Lesotho that soon, as the people were super friendly,
and the country was peaceful. Taking Lesotho’s mountainous location, the endless
hills encountered were no surprise. Still, children came running through the
fields to see what two whities on bicycles were doing in their neck of the
woods.
Wepener
had no camping and an additional night was spent in a guesthouse. Albeit far over
our budget the guesthouse was outstanding, with a vast and beautiful garden, spacious,
well-decorated rooms, as well as a lively bar and good food. I was, therefore,
happy we didn’t bypass Wepener.
25
April - Wepener - Dewetsdorp - 43 km
Dewetsdorp
was a short amble away and as Bloemfontein was a further 70 kilometres down the drag, I considered it best to stay
put. Dewetsdorp is a small village, which surprisingly offers lodging. The
owner promptly gave us a discount when he learned of our little adventure. We
looked a tad worse for wear, I guessed.
Our
early arrival gave us time to do laundry and watch cricket. Unfortunately, the
South Africans had a dreadful game, and we instead decided to fill our stomachs.
Small towns often came as a pleasant surprise. I could hardly believe
Dewetsdorp sported a quaint little restaurant that served pizzas.
26
April - Dewetsdorp – Bloemfontein - 80 km
Departing,
Dewetsdorp was at the crack of dawn in anticipation of another day battling a headwind.
Still, a stiff headwind marred the day. Our early start made slinking into the
Backpackers hostel in Bloemfontein at around lunchtime. Ernest located a bike
shop to straighten his bicycle rim, indicating the beginning of his ongoing bike
problems.
27
April – Bloemfontein
An
additional day was spent in Bloem as I’d decided to cycle Europe instead.
Seeing I’d already cycled Africa barely two years earlier and Ernest and I
disagreed about virtually everything, I considered it better to go my own way.
I didn’t care for his constant bickering and booked a flight to London, where I
intended to cycle the UK and Europe. So my ride as a tourist in my home country
ended. Following this unsuccessful start I was cautiously excited to resume my
journey on a different continent.
During
my stay in Bloem, I was lucky enough to catch up with my friend Rita, who was
in Bloemfontein, taking part in the Master’s Championship. She participated in
the 100m and the 200m and won both. Well done, Rita!
28 April – Bloemfontein – Cape Town (by train)
I
hurried to the station to catch the train to Cape Town. The Railway Station was
quite an experience, devoid of staff and dirty. The train was two hours late, but
eventually, I waved goodbye to Ernest. He seemed delighted by my departure as
it was the first time I saw him smile since departing Cape Town.
29 April – Cape Town
The
train, in contrast to the station, was a pleasant surprise. The coaches were
new and the staff was extremely helpful and friendly. What a good experience, and
the train pulled into Cape Town station dead on time.
The
next few days were spent boxing the bicycle and repacking panniers for my
flight to London. I was immensely excited to get going.
5 May – Cape Town, South Africa – London, United Kingdom
Phoning
around to several SAA offices, the verdict on transporting a bike by plane was
one had to take the bicycle as part of your luggage. I feared the flight would
become a pricey affair at the quoted price. My essential items alone weighed
25kg and so did the bike. Finally, I got to the check-in counter, bank card in
hand, ready to pay my way. Therefore, you can imagine my relief when told the
payment was a considerably smaller once-off payment—what a relief.
