18 GEORGIA
413 Kilometres - 10 Days
13 May–23 May 2008
MAP
PHOTOS
E-BOOK
12
May – Pazar, Turkey – Batumi, Georgia – 72 kilometres
D-day
arrived and, in great anticipation, Ernest and I biked to the Turkey-Georgia
border. The weather was in our favour as the day became sunny and clear. However,
two obstacles awaited: getting out of Turkey with our expired visas, and hoping
it would be possible to purchase a Georgian visa at the border.
We
nervously slinked into the Turkish immigration and were offered a seat and tea
as our dilemma was discussed. The helpful border officials pointed out that we
had overstayed our visa by 23 days and we were given two options. A fine of 300
lire allowed the offender to return to Turkey after three months, and a penalty
of 81 lire banned you for five years. Pondering our finances, we opted for the
latter. The whole process was significantly more straightforward than
envisioned, and I will always love the Turkish for that.
Relieved,
we set off to the Georgian immigration, where we were delighted to find one could
indeed purchase a visa on arrival. Phew!
Not
believing our luck, we were all smiles biking the 15 kilometres into Batumi,
our first town in Georgia, via a highly scenic stretch of the Black Sea.
Reaching Batumi, I drew a few Georgian lari and celebrated by taking a room in
Batumi.
By
evening, we found ourselves in the Caucasus, a region I knew nothing about and
was excited to investigate. The Caucus region is situated along the border
between Europe and Asia. It’s home to the Caucasus Mountains which contains
Europe’s highest mountain, Mount Elbrus. The area includes Georgia, Azerbaijan,
Armenia, and part of Russia. Still, we only planned to cycle Georgia and
Azerbaijan as my travel partner seemed to be in a race around the world.
13
May - Batumi - Samtredia – 131 kilometres
Once
in tiny Georgia, all things appeared different to Turkey. Georgia was less than
a 10th of Turkey’s size and far less populated. The country was home
to only 3.7 million people, unlike the approximately 80 million in Turkey. As a
result, everything was vastly different, including the food, people, and
landscape. The misty, snow-capped mountains in the distance and wooded ravines
featuring waterfalls and old ruins gave it a slightly medieval feel.
Our
first day of riding led past numerous traditional homes upon massive plots
suited to subsistence farming. The only things spoiling our vista were old,
disused factories from the former Soviet 5- and 10-year plans. Several places
looked forlorn, revealing dilapidated buildings and villagers living under the
breadline.
Georgians
were extremely reserved; to such an extent, they practically looked unfriendly.
They stared at us, and we at them. Kids kept a safe distance, and even dogs
were too nervous about giving chase. Our nightly abode was above a petrol
station, without hot water and with torn bedding and I thought it best to use my
sleeping bag.
14
May - Samtredia - Zestaponi – 81 kilometres
Georgia
took getting used to. From the unsmiling people to the language. Georgian, the
official language, was considerably trickier to master as it’s written in
Georgian script, and not related to neighbouring languages. We could scarcely
manage the essential words like hello, goodbye, and thank you.
The
road which led to Zestaponi was picturesque, across rivers, through densely
wooded areas and past small half-forgotten, depressing-looking settlements. The
tents were pitched at an idyllic spot next to a river, so lovely I could have
stayed a few days.
15
May - Zestaponi - Agara – 85 kilometres
Our
late departure (10h45) was due to our tranquil site and a pleasant sunny
morning. Roadside stalls sold heaps of cherries, neatly platted on a stick
which made for easy nibbling while pedalling.
The
route to Agata was enjoyable alongside a river, through mountains, over a pass
and down the other side. Our stop in Agara was purely to eat khachapuri, the
staple. A kind man suggested pitching the tents under a disused bar’s veranda
as he predicted rain. No sooner were the tents pitched than his prediction came
true, and rain came gushing down and continued throughout the night. However, I
was happy with his advice as the shelter allowed for cooking and sitting
outside the tents.
16-21
May - Agara - Tbilisi – 116 kilometres
By
morning, the sky was overcast but luckily the previous night’s storm had
dissipated. The route to Tbilisi went past Gori, the birthplace of Stalin,
where we turned in to investigate. Surprisingly, an astounding number of
statues of the man remained and a huge one dominated the town centre. (I
believe these statues have subsequently been removed.)
It
rained a bit each day but, being spring, the weather wasn’t cold and in such a
lush green countryside, one could expect rain daily.
The
day’s ride finished in Georgia’s bustling capital, Tbilisi, situated on the
banks of the Kura River. Unfortunately, with its lively touristy trade, almost
no budget accommodation could be located. Eventually, we chose a slightly
pricey room sporting a buffet breakfast, something I assumed was a loss to the
owners.
The
subsequent day’s phone call to the Azerbaijan embassy revealed that no visa on arrival
was issued at the border. One thus needed to apply at the consulate, which took
three days. In the meantime, less expensive digs were sought nearer to the
centre of Tbilisi. Nasi’s Homestay was an institution popular with budget
travellers from virtually anywhere. Each nook and cranny were filled with beds
and bunks. Nasi’s was where you were bound to meet a few interesting characters
and we had a great time staying there.
Tbilisi
was graced with a remarkable architectural heritage and historic Tbilisi
offered numerous attractions. Not only was the city old (founded in the 5th
century AD), but due to its central location between Europe and Asia, every man
and his dog wanted a piece of Tbilisi. To this day, Tbilisi is still an
important transit and trade route. Like us, most needed this route to get
between Europe and Asia overland.
The
town provided a multitude of attractions, from beautiful old cathedrals and the
fascinating and vast Freedom Square to the Narikala Fortress with its long
history. The maze-like,
cobblestone streets in the historic part of town came with an
ensemble of restored buildings and many hours were spent wandering Rustaveli
and Aghmashenebeli Avenues.
22
May – Tbilisi
After
waiting the obligatory three days, we eagerly biked to the Azari embassy, where
the queue was long and slow-moving. Once inside the building, the staff
informed us the fee had to be paid at a bank in town. I thought this
information they should’ve parted with earlier. Then, back on the bicycles and
into the city where we had only minutes ago come from, and (receipt in hand) we
returned to the embassy. Again, after waiting in line, we learned visas were
only issued in the afternoon! Darn, I was under the impression they were given
straightaway.
