CYCLING SOUTH EAST ASIA
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia – Bangkok,
Thailand
2 424 Km – 60 Days
7 February – 7 April 2017
100 Malaysia (4) - 7 – 27 February 2017
101 Thailand (9) - 27 – 7 April 2017
MAP
PHOTOS MALAYSIA
100
Malaysia (4)
7
February – 27 February
662
Kilometres – 20 Days
7 February – 27 February
662 Kilometres – 20 Days
7
February - Dumai, Indonesia – Port Dickson, Malaysia (by boat)
After
an excellent Indonesian breakfast, I cycled the few hundred metres to the ferry
office. Although far too early, I biked to the harbour anyway, checked in and
waited until the Port Dickson ferry departed at eleven. Sadly, the weather came
in, and it became a rough ride over the Straits of Malacca. The ferry rocked
and rolled and could as well have been called the “Pitch & Puke” as seasick
bags were in high demand.
Our
boat anchored in Malaysia at three p.m. but the hour time difference made it four
p.m. The weather was stormy, causing poor visibility as I headed out in the
direction of Kuala Lumpur. I didn’t get far until spotting the Grandpa Hotel
and weakened at the thought of a dry and comfortable abode. I wasn’t going to make
Peter’s place that day anyhow, and it made little difference whether I stayed
here or further along. Walking to the Giant shopping mall made me feel like a
kid in a candy store. I didn’t buy anything but merely feasted my eyes on all
the luxury items.
8
February – Port Dickson – Puchong – 81 km
The
room rate included breakfast consisting of fried rice topped with a fried egg accompanied
by tea. It rained heavily during the night, and I was pleased to notice the
rain had abated. I thus hurriedly hopped on the bike to cycle the eighty
kilometres to Peter’s place on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur.
The
ride was pleasant on good roads (no potholes) through oil palm plantations and
past the well-known Malaysian Grand Prix circuit. I passed fruit stalls and a
massive solar farm. Well done, Malaysia. I somehow landed on a toll road and
twice sneaked past toll booths without being spotted, making a quick and comfortable
ride to Puchong.
It
felt like arriving home and it was lovely to see the Yoong family again. Later,
Peter and I picked Janice up from the airport. I was super excited as our
planned cycle trip was finally becoming a reality. Janice spent the evening reassembling
her bicycle and sorting out panniers.
All
turned in early as the plan was to wake at two a.m. to head to the iconic Batu
cave, Hindu temple, and shrine to observe the Thaipusam festival.
9
February - Puchong – Batu Cave
Peter
escorted us to the 3-day Thaipusam festival. The Tamil community celebrates the
festival on the full moon in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February).
It’s
a bizarre, colourful and highly unusual religious festival. Thousands of
devotees start their procession to the cave in the early morning, carrying milk
pots as offerings and piercing their bodies with spikes. On arrival, almost all
men had their heads shaven. Others walked in a trance-like state, bodies
pierced by spikes and hooks, accompanied by frantic drumming up the stairs to
the temple. The place was packed, and one could hardly move as hundreds of
devotees made their way up the 272 stairs—what a fantastic experience.
10
February - Puchong
I
went jogging, and it felt good as I haven’t run in a month. Returning, Peter was
ready to go to the market. En route, we stopped at the Indian temple dedicated
to the snake goddess Nagaswari Amman. It’s a temple like no other and by far
the most impressive and beautiful temple. Afterwards, we’d a considerable
breakfast spread as only the Chinese can arrange.
By
evening, Peter, Alice, Janice and myself biked around Putrajaya lake, a
delightful evening in a beautiful setting. Before returning home, we once again
stopped for dinner.
Janice
and I got our things ready to leave the following day. We tested the bicycles
by cycling to Tesco and grabbing a few things needed for our upcoming trip. The
day turned out the last day of the Chinese New Year (a week-long festival), and
Peter arranged a Hot Pot. He invited a bunch of fascinating people, including
two cyclists from South Korea, Lina and Siew, and their Warmshowers host, Rose.
Two British, travelling by motorbike also attended and Maggie, Alice’s cousin,
Ginger, and her mother and my dear friend, Saras, whom I met a year ago,
cycling Malaysia. What a great evening in good company and with delicious food.
12
February - Puchong - The Kabins - 50 km
Finally,
Janice and I started our little adventure to Bangkok. Peter kindly accompanied us
to The Kabins and led the way along secondary roads making pleasant riding, generally
along smaller paths past the remanence of the Chinese New Year festival. Janice
did exceptionally well on her first day, and we reached The Kabins early.
The
Kabins made a luxury night following our first ride and provided a pleasant container-living
experience. The Kabins consist of containers on top of one another around a
lovely swimming pool. The establishment was luxurious and offered everything
needed, including a fridge, a kettle, coffee, tea, plenty of electrical points,
and air conditioning. Boiling, we wasted no time jumping in the pool. There’s
nothing quite like having a large swimming pool all to yourself on a hot day. The
rest of the evening was spent chatting on our little veranda.
13
February - The Kabins – Kuala Selangor – 25 km
Departing
our fancy accommodation was at leisure and we ambled along the coast on
what seemed a decent road. However, our path sadly petered out altogether, eventually
requiring walking the bikes. Nevertheless, the ride was comfortable along a rural
road through oil palm plantations as monkeys darted across our path.
When
cycle touring, a considerable amount happens on any given day and it’s easy to
forget all one saw. This day we encountered two weddings. The wedding outfits
were exquisite, and I learned they don’t simply have one but change into
different costumes two or three times. We passed creeks where fishing boats
were lined up waiting to go to sea and temples where joss sticks burned slowly,
sending their heavenly smell to the spirits.
We
rolled into Kuala Selangor early and booked into the Melawati Hotel. Once
settled in, a short walk took us up the historic hill of Bukit Malawati, which featured
monkeys, cannons, and other bits and bobs. Bukit Malawati was the
administrative centre and stronghold of the Selangor Sultanate in the late 18th
and early 19th centuries. Built from 1782 to 1826, a heavily fortified fort
once stood on the hill. The fort fell to the Dutch in 1784, but what makes this
fort historical is that this was the first time a sultan recaptured a fort from
a foreign power.
I
didn’t feel well and returned to the room while Janice pedalled to the nearby
nature park. Later, while grabbing something to eat, we ran into the Korean
couple we met at Peter’s place and invited them to join us on our firefly trip.
It turned out to be a great evening with thousands of fireflies. I didn’t think
anyone expected to see quite as many.
14
February - Kuala Selangor – Sungai Besar – 60 km
From
Kuala Selangor, we proceeded along a coastal route past tons of oil palm fruits
and iguanas lazing in the sun. We passed small fishing communities where
fishing boats lay 4-deep, waiting until the tide came in.
The
day turned out frustrating as Janice had a puncture, generally not a problem,
but this wasn’t your regular flat tyre as the hole was on the inside of the
tube, meaning on the rim side. This type of puncture can
only be caused by the rough edges of spoke-holes or spokes working through the
rim into the tube. We tried filing the edges, taped them up and replaced the
tube. It all lasted no more than 200 meters before the tyre went flat. We repeated
the process, and this time it lasted.
We
continued to Pantai Redang, where a colourful wishing tree got our attention. To
make a wish, one is supposed to buy ribbons from the temple and throw them into
the tree making a wish. I don’t know if our lack of following suit caused our
bad luck, but Janice again had a flat tyre shortly past Redang. This time none
of our patches stuck, and after trying 4 or 5 times, our patches ran out. There
wasn’t much more to do but grab the wheel and head to the nearest motorbike
repair shop. Mercifully, they had a new bicycle tube, and in no time at all, we
were on our way. This time the tube held to Sungai Besar, where we met Raja, a
friendly guy and avid cyclist. He showed us to a hotel and bought us a meal and
a drink. He even drove us to the bike shop to purchase rim-tape, patches and
new glue—how immensely kind of him.
15
February - Sungai Besar – Melintang Hotel - 50 km
Raja
waited outside the hotel as he wanted to film us cycling and we made our way along
farm roads, as has become the norm. We’d a great deal of fun as Raja tried shooting
a video. We met Wim and Monique from the Netherlands having a coconut shake, cycling
in the opposite direction. They’ve been cycling in Southeast Asia the past 17
years. Each year, they returned for a two-month cycle ride. Raja left us and accompanied
them to Sungai Besar.
Janice
and I made our way through coconut palm plantations, often stopping to inspect
what we deemed interesting, one being the Kapok tree. Its fluffy seed pods are typically
used as mattress stuffing, pillows, and soft toys. In Trinidad and Tobago’s
folklore, the story goes: a carpenter carved seven rooms in a Kapok tree and
then tricked the devil (or demon of death by the name of Bazil) into entering
and then locked him in the tree. People believe he still lives in the tree.
Our
rural path abruptly ended at a river; fortunately, a ferry carted people across,
and we could load the bicycles. Shortly beyond the river, a conveniently situated
hotel left 70 kilometres to Lumut the following day, making it a perfect
overnight stop.
16
February — Melintang Hotel — Pangkor Island — 74 km
We
resumed our ride along the main road as I didn’t want to meander too much,
seeing this would be Janice’s longest day of cycling since leaving Kuala
Lumpur. I anticipated a dull day, but it turned out, one more pleasant day of
riding in hot but perfect weather.
The
road led across a multitude of rivers, from small streams to wide ones large
enough to accommodate massive ships. We passed Chinese temples and Hindu shrines
and nibbled on snacks from roadside vendors. Most fascinating was a bird seller
who showed us a curly-feathered pigeon—how odd.
Before
Lumut, we popped into a camera store, where Janice bought herself an 18-200mm
lens, ideal when travelling. In Lumut, a ferry took us to Pangkor island, where
the Sea View Inn made perfect overnighting. The place was right on the beach,
and we paid for two nights, giving us a well-deserved day of leisure.
17
February - Pangkor Island
We
emerged to a beautiful morning, and I donned my running shoes to jog along the
coast. Afterwards, I jumped in the pool before sitting down to our complimentary
breakfast. After that, we did the usual housekeeping and then hired a scooter
to explore the island.
Our
first stop was at the remains of an old Dutch Fort and a sacred rock. The rock sported
an intriguing story. It’s said a Dutch dignitary’s child mysteriously
disappeared during the Dutch occupation. Some spread rumours of a tiger attack.
Others claimed angry Malays took the child to rid Pangkor of the Dutch. Carved
into the rock is an image of a tiger with a child in its mouth (if you use your
imagination). Also inscribed are a few symbols of the Dutch East India Company.
We
rode around the island, which took barely two hours as it’s a small island
measuring approximately eight kilometres. Though a well-known resort island, it
remains a fishing hamlet where the primary income is still fishing or fishing-related.
A further fascinating stop was at the blowfish man who made all kinds of things
from dried blowfishes. He claimed the blowfishes were caught by accident in
fishing traps and were already dead before using them in his art. He made hats,
clocks, lampshades and all kinds of other ornaments.
18
February - Pangkor Island – Pantai Remis - 55 km
A
short ride led to the ferry for our return trip to the mainland. Unfortunately,
we’d a few technical problems which needed
sorting out before getting underway.
We
thus cycled to the camera store where Janice bought her lens and traded it for
a different one as the one bought two days previously wasn’t 100% compatible with
her camera. Afterwards, we searched for a mobile phone repair shop as Janice’s
phone gave in. We couldn’t locate anyone to repair it, and in the end, it was best
to buy a new one. The result was 15h00 on departing, but enough time to cycle
to nearby Pantai Remis.
An
easy ride across countless rivers took us past ever-present spirit houses and
shrines. We stopped to drink sugarcane juice, watched a lady make curry puffs,
and bought a few. Digs at Pantai Hotel was our abode of choice. Later we walked
out to the mobile carts, of which there were plenty and faced a whole array of options.
Eventually, I settled for soup containing many ingredients, and Janice opted
for a bag of fried goodies. The rest of the evening was spent setting up
Janice’s new phone.
19
February - Pantai Remis – Taiping – 54 km
The
previous night’s rain brought a pleasantly fresh and overcast morning. Our days
started taking on a comfortable rhythm as we ambled along at leisure. We biked
past familiar sights of dense palm plantations overgrown by moss and ferns, piles
of coconut husks guarded by spirit houses, and past stands
selling eats at dirt-low prices. We crossed a multitude of rivers and biked
through areas dotted by mosques, making a pretty picture against a bright blue
sky.
At
tiny fishing “kampungs”, dogs barked, and roosters crowed, indicating their
territory. Friendly residents called “hallos” from behind banana plants, all
wanting to know where we’re from. Next, we stopped for refreshments at Trong
Leisure Farm & Resort, a pleasant enough place to spend an hour or so. The
resort sported chalets on the dam that looked good enough to spend a night. We,
however, continued to Taiping, where we sought out the Casavilla Hotel. By evening,
we took ourselves off to the zoo where, one could explore at night. It’s an
unusual feeling walking around in the dark, listening to the chewing and
snorting of animals.
20-22
February - Taiping – Penang - 90 km
We
were up early in anticipation of a long day of biking. From Taiping to
Butterworth, we followed the main road, which seldom makes exciting riding, but
it was the shortest way to Penang. Janice barely ever stopped and kept a steady
pace to Butterworth,
where we boarded a ferry to the island of Penang.
The
ride turned our Janice’s longest ride of our tour and she claimed her longest
ride in the past ten years. Still, she did exceptionally well. The ferry docked
in Penang around 15h00. Although Janice was dead tired, she still had the energy
to walk around this UNESCO world heritage site famous for its street food and
art. In the process, we ran into Lina and Jihoon, the two cyclists from South
Korea. What a small world.
The
following morning was spent organising visas to Thailand, doing laundry, and discovering
Georgetown, all the time marvelling at its famous street art and its ensemble
of historic architecture.
23
February - Penang – Pantai Merdeka – 43 km
We
departed at leisure to board the ferry to the mainland and continued our quest north.
At first, we had no option but to cycle along the main road. Still, we turned
off onto a smaller path at the first opportunity, making far better
riding. In one of the small settlements, we met an extremely welcoming Malaysian
who invited us to tea. He’d been to South Africa, and we chatted about Cape
Town and everything he saw and did there.
It
started raining and albeit not cold, we were soaked to the bone and, therefore,
had little chance of taking pictures or admiring the landscape. Reaching Pantai
Merdeka, we weakened at the sight of the Pantai Merdeka Resort. However, we could
dry our clothes, as the rain set in good and solid without any sign of subsiding.
We’d a pleasant meal at the restaurant, and for once, Janice could order a ‘non-spicy
meal, something virtually non-existent in this part of the world.
24
February - Pantai Merdeka – Langkawi – 80 km
After
breakfast (included in the room rate), we rode to the waterfront to find a boat
to take us across the river. Waiting, we watched kids playing games on the sand
and befriended the village cats. Strangely enough, they all sported kinky
tails; it must be a genetic thing.
Mercifully,
a boat arrived and saved us cycling a long way around to find a bridge. Finally,
we came upon a beautiful coastal path that ran past tiny fishing hamlets,
farmlands, scrawny looking cows and lush forests, and vistas of beautiful
mountains in the distance. Approximately 60 kilometres further, Kuala Kedah indicated
the place from where ferries departed for Langkawi Island. A comfortable sail took
us to Langkawi. Once there, we took the obligatory photo at the eagle and then pedalled
the 22 kilometres to Cenang Beach.
Janice
located a good spot, offering air-conditioning, a refrigerator, and a swimming
pool. Then, although Janice was tired and sunburned, we walked to the beach on
the hunt for a restaurant, of which there was no shortage on this touristy island.
25-26
February – Langkawi
Langkawi
was swarming with tourists. Still, we spent the day on the island in the
company of what felt like millions of visitors. We braved the
crowds and joined a mangrove tour, which turned out more of a tourist trap than
anything else. We were herded to a minivan and were driven, at breakneck speed,
to the opposite side of the island. Once there, we were steered to a waiting
boat and felt part of a tourist conveyor belt. The boat took off at high speed,
and the beautiful panorama became one big blur as we sped past high cliffs and
mangrove swamps. Eventually, we came to a halt at a cave. Still, various boats were
lined up, but ultimately, our turn came. Then, off we went in a spray of water
to the bat cave. We were given 30 minutes to look inside the crowded cave, and
had to stretch our necks to see past the sea of heads. Again, we sped off, this
time to a floating restaurant, where we were allowed 40 minutes to look at fish
in a pond or order an expensive fish meal. By then, all laughed at how
ridiculous the trip had become, but we’d to return before 13h00, as the next
trip started at 14h00. I was sad the trip was rushed, as the area is stunning
and blessed with clear blue/green water and stunning limestone karst scenery.
Eagles soared above and monkeys played in the mangroves, and if I’d a canoe, I
could easily have spent an entire day.
Packing
up, Janice noticed a flat tyre and again, the puncture was on the rim side. Unfortunately,
we couldn’t fix the puncture and bought a new tube instead. With all done, we opted
for an extra night and what a good idea. We spent a relaxing day on the island,
swam in the lukewarm ocean and, by evening, took a walk to the beach to watch
the sunset.
27 February – 7 April 2017
1 762 Kilometres – 40 Days
27
February - Langkawi, Malaysia – Satun, Thailand – 35 km
From
Langkawi, a ferry operated to Satun, Thailand. As the ferry only departed at
13h00, I went for a run followed by a dip in the pool before packing up. A
quick and easy 22 kilometres led to the ferry terminal. Checking out of
Malaysia was uncomplicated and an hour later, the ferry docked in Thailand. A hassle-free
entry allowed us into our new country. From the pier, a 12-kilometre rain-soaked
ride led to Satun. Once in town, the ATM spat out a few Thai Bhat, allowing the
purchase of a Thai SIM and ensuring a room at the Pinnacle Wangmai Satun Hotel.
Quite a name for such an ordinary hotel.
Satun’s
night market offered a wide selection of food, from bugs to sushi, and thus
something for even the pickiest eaters.
28
February - Satun – Pak Bara Beach – 78 km
Barely
10 kilometres away, a country lane veered off the main road. Luckily, Janice
didn’t mind tagging along these rural paths and never complained about an extra
kilometre or 10. The way led through rural communities where families lived in timber
homes on stilts, ladies cooked on open fires and elderly folk swung in hammocks
under stilted houses. We biked past trees heavy with jackfruit and past cows
with long ears. Each property seemingly had a mango, avocado and frangipani
tree, lending a tropical feel to the area. We pedalled through rubber tree
plantations, where trees were planted in neat rows, making pretty pictures.
Tiny eateries provided noodle soup and opportunities to strike up conversations
with villagers. Finally, Pak Bara Beach indicated the end of our day’s ride. No
time was wasted dipping our sweat-soaked bodies in the Andaman Sea.
1
March – Pak Bara Beach – Ban Thung Yao – 63 km
Our
late departure was due to my morning jog. Our chosen path took us through
farmlands, picturesque rubber tree farms and villages housing ornate temples. A
secondary route made a relaxed cycle past iconic karst landscapes. The area was
littered with caves, but too lazy to make lengthy detours, only the nearby ones
were explored.
The
caves investigated didn’t amount to much as the first was deserted and appeared
access was only by boat. The second one was on the opposite side of a river,
and we couldn’t find a suitable way across.
We
ambled on, stopping at a pineapple vendor to have a snack. The lady peeled and
cut so much that we could barely finish it. The word must’ve spread that foreigners
were in their midst as more people arrived to observe this unusual event and
children got unceremoniously dumped on our laps for photos. The village of Ban
Thung Yao was reached at around 15h00 and sported an impressive hotel at a
reasonable rate. However, the name should’ve forewarned us as the “Cupid
Hotel,” not surprisingly, didn’t offer twin rooms.
We
waited until sunset to meander to the market and, as can be expected, were a
great novelty in this tiny settlement. We got plenty of stares and it seemed a
rarity seeing foreign women in this part of the country as our actions were
observed with great interest.
2
March - Ban Thung Yao – Trang – 56 km
Right
from the word go, we were on rural roads, which provided a shady ride through
rubber tree plantations. It was fascinating to watch them harvest the rubber, a
milky substance dripping from grooves cut in the bark. Our first stop was at a
coconut vendor offering young coconuts, full of water and thick flesh. Once
done, we handed the coconut back to the vendor so he could hack it open for us
to scoop out the meat inside.
The
rest of the way was spent entertaining ourselves by making videos. People
peeped through doors and windows as we rode past, and even the dogs ran for the
safety of their homes, a sure sign that this was not an area frequented by
foreigners.
Numerous
red soda offerings adorned the majority of shrines. When land is cleared, I understand
spirit houses are put up to house the displaced earth spirit. It isn’t a
religious thing, but a custom. These spirits guard the land, and homes must be
built for them, and offerings must be given. It’s what the Thais do, and red
soda is the most popular offering.
Trang
was reached in good time and sported the Yamaha hotel, which offered budget
rooms. Finally, we’d our fill of Pad Thai Thailand’s most iconic dish
consisting of stir-fried rice noodles served with chicken, beef or tofu,
peanuts and scrambled egg.
3-4
March - Trang – Krabi – 130 km
En
route to Krabi was past the ever-present stupas and temples. I’d no intention
of going to Krabi as I considered it too far. However, Janice had other ideas
and scarcely stopped. Following the main road, didn’t offer a great deal of
sightseeing except for a few waterfalls. Still, we made our way past rural
areas where people lived simple lives. All seemingly, owned a few chickens and
a cow or two. Others were drying thin slivers of bamboo, which they used as
rope.
I
was proud of my friend for hanging in, never complaining, and sticking to the
task at hand. Well done, Janice. One hundred and thirty kilometres on a loaded
bicycle is a long way by anyone’s standards. After a shower and a visit to the
night market, we returned to the comfort of our air-conditioned room.
An
additional day was spent in Krabi, giving our legs a rest and enjoying all
Krabi had to offer. A boat ride to nearby caves and around the mangrove swamps
was a fun and relaxing way to while away a few hours. The fun part was the tide
went out while exploring the mangroves, and only due to our boatman’s skills,
we made it out of there.
5-6
March - Krabi – Ko Phi-Phi (by ferry)
Following
my morning jog and a turn at the dim-sum restaurant, a short ride brought us to
the Krabi-Phi Phi island ferry. In no time at all, we were transported to
paradise, a trip sporting limestone karst pinnacles sticking out of azure blue
waters. However, finding a reasonably priced abode in heaven was, slightly more
complicated than getting there. Eventually, Sabai House was the best deal
available on this lovely but touristy island. From the minute one stepped off
the ferry, you were transported into a world of backpackers, party buckets,
tattoo parlours and, “You want massaaaaage?”
Janice
and I skipped both the party buckets and the massage. Instead, we proceeded
straight to the beach where we rented a kayak and paddled around this beautiful
bay a few hours before returning to our room to get ready for a night out.
The
following day brought an early start to catch the 7h00 scuba boat. The dive was
a two-tank dive and worth every cent. The water was lukewarm; the visibility excellent,
offering an abundance of fish and swim-throughs. Arriving in Phi Phi, enough
time remained to hop on another boat for a half-day snorkelling trip. Again, diving
was a pleasure and the return trip at sunset a highlight.
7-8
March - Phi-Phi Island – Patong Beach, Phuket – by ferry plus 20 km
The
ferry to Phuket was only at 14h00, hence a slow start. Arriving in Phuket at
18h00 left just enough time to cycle to Patong Beach via a steep hill. We
uncovered a room right in the heart of the action and paid two nights. Already
late, only enough time remained to have a quick shower before heading to the
beach.
Patong
Beach is known for its sex tourism and parties and about each shop was either a
tattoo parlour, bar or massage house. The action went throughout the night.
Going for a run, the last party-goers were only staggering home. Some clearly didn’t
make it home as I noticed a few bodies on the beach, lost to the world. Good
thing the tide didn’t come up very high. The rest of the day was spent doing
the usual chores of updating blogs, sorting out photos, and doing laundry.
9
March - Patong Beach – Khao Lak – 106 km
The
bridge that connects Phuket Island to the mainland was easily 50 kilometres
down the drag. Once back on the mainland we turned off searching for a smaller path,
a decision that didn’t disappoint. We soon found ourselves beside the ocean,
where brand new resort hotels replaced the pre-tsunami nipa huts. The Thailand
coast is beautiful, and one can understand the desire to build resort hotels in
this area. Our day became known as “The day of the big spiders”. Massive Golden
Orb Web Spiders could be seen amongst trees; each web housed one giant spider
(female) and a few smaller ones (male).
Hills
marred the day, and I think Janice had enough of cycling hills towards the end.
Still, our arrival in Khao Lak was in good time, where Fasai House made
pleasant overnighting.
10
March – Khao Lak – Kuraburi – 90 km
Coffee
was next to the pool at Fasai House before stopping at a bike shop where Janice’s
disk brake was fixed. Unfortunately, it turned out a day of brake problems as I
lost a brake pad and therefore had no rear brakes.
Later
we followed a sign to a waterfall but couldn’t locate it. Nevertheless, we
decided to proceed along the rural path, which turned out hilly. Janice’s brake
gave problems, and we did what any good bicycle mechanic would do and gave it a
liberal spray of WD40.
Still,
it remained a lovely ride through a rural and wooded part of the country. Our
late start made arriving in Kuraburi after five, where we bunked down at the
Tararin Resort. This wasn’t the kind of place that springs to mind when
thinking of a resort. However, the accommodation remained unique in ramshackle
wooden stilted bungalows on the banks of the Nang Yon River. The room was large
and sported a door to a tiny balcony overlooking the river.
11-12
March - Kuraburi – Bang Ben Beach – 79 km
We
were lucky enough to find an excellent bicycle shop in tiny Kuraburi. The staff
replaced my bike’s brake blocks and fixed Janice’s disc brake. Phew, what a relief.
It
was already late when all was done, and the day turned into a hot and hilly
ride to Bang Ben Beach. Fortunately, the immensely popular Ice Coffee were
plentiful and kept us both fuelled and cool. The path led past ornate temples, lush
forests and tiny hamlets.
Thailand’s
west coast is particularly scenic, making enjoyable touring. By afternoon
Janice had enough of the hills, and we turned off to Bang Ben Beach and Wasana
Resort. Following a shower and a short cycle to the harbour, supper was at Wasana
restaurant. I ordered the green curry and Janice fish; both dishes were
delicious.
An
additional day was spent at our comfortable bungalow at Wasana Resort. The day
was spent lazing around doing nothing apart from cycling to the beach where we
swam at a deserted beach. Our evening bike ride took us to the pier, where
boats laid high and dry, waiting until the tide came in.
13-15
March - Bang Ben Beach – Ranong – 52 km
A
short but scenic ride took us to Ranong. One knows you’re in the tropics when a
grassy hill becomes a tourist attraction. Stopping to fill our water bottles brought
opportunities to chat with shopkeepers. They were generally quite shy as I
didn’t think many foreigners ever stopped in their neck of the woods. There was
no real reason to stop in Ranong but we did anyhow. In hindsight, a room at
Casa Theresa was a good thing, as by evening, Janice had come down with a
terrible cold.
Ranong
was a popular place for visa runs to Myanmar, resulting in a few lost souls
hanging about. The following two days were spent in Ranong, giving Janice time
to recover from her dreadful cold. The only thing we did was cycle the two and
a half kilometres to the hot spring, but once there didn’t swim or even stick
our feet in the water as the water was far too hot. I never saw anyone
submerged only a few brave souls placed their feet momentarily in the water.
16
March – Ranong – Kra Buri – 60 km
Janice
felt loads better, allowing us to head further north. The way was picturesque
and ran through dense forests, past waterfalls, and over hills offering
fantastic vistas over the surrounding area. It further passed a multitude of
monasteries and stands selling interesting nibbles as well as ice-cold sugar
cane juice.
Kra
Buri came after 60 km of pedalling. The day’s ride ended at the sight of lovely
little A-frame bungalows at Pannika Resort. Around sunset, a short ride took us
to a nearby restaurant where I ordered Tom Yam, and Janice fried shrimp served accompanied
by a good dose of fried cashew nuts. Both meals were delicious and we ate far
too much.
17
March - Kra Buri – Thungwualaen Beach – 80 km
Back
on the bikes, we soon reached the Kra Isthmus, the Malay Peninsula’s narrowest
point and a mere 100 metres from Myanmar, situated on the Kra Buri River’s
opposite bank. The stretch of land between the Kra River estuary and the Bay of
Sawi on Thailand’s east coast is a meagre 44 kilometres.
Soon
after getting underway, the route swung inland over the mountains to the East
coast. A pleasant cycle over gentle hills past plenty of food vendors selling
steamed dumplings. The mountain range we cycled over (by then only a few hills)
forms part of a mountain chain that runs from Tibet through the Malay
peninsula.
At
first, we thought of stopping in Chumphon but decided to head to the beach 16
kilometres further. The decision was good as the beach was a beautiful spot featuring
pleasant bungalows across from the beach. I noticed a diving outfit and
couldn’t help myself. I dug into my limited resources and arranged a two-tank
boat dive the following day. Sunset was an excellent time to walk to a
restaurant on the beach and grab a bite to eat, watching the fishing boats in
the bay.
18
March - Thungwualaen Beach
Both
Janice and I got up early, but still too late to catch the sunrise over the
Gulf of Thailand. Instead, we sat on our little veranda enjoying our morning
coffee until time to pedal off to the dive centre. The dive boat was anchored
in the bay, and passengers were ferried out by a rubber boat. The first dive
was only the divemaster and me as the other guests snorkelled. All went well,
and we saw loads of fish until halfway through the dive. Then, out of nowhere
came a Tiggerfish that attacked the divemaster. He fended it off the best he
could, but the fish kept coming. The Tigger then turned on me ,
banged into my cylinder, and tried to bite my hair (not difficult taking my mop).
The divemaster tried scaring the fish using his “tank-banger” and we swam away
from the reef as fast as possible. The Tigger was obviously protecting his
territory.
Still,
we continued the dive, and only once onboard did, I notice the fish bit a chunk
out of the dive master’s nose! Have you ever! Best was for him to return to the
shore as soon as possible, and I got transferred (mid-seas) to a different
boat. The best thing was that this was a proper Thai operation, and all the
diving staff and guests were Thai. Although little English was spoken, the food
was genuinely Thai and delicious. I did two more stunning dives (even though I
only paid for two), and though the viz wasn’t fantastic, it remained a pleasure
being in the water. One of the dives was a wreck dive, making diving even more
exciting.
19
March - Thungwualaen Beach – Bang Saphan Beach – 85 km
After
a jog and a swim, we cycled out of Tungwualaen. The day’s ride turned out stunning,
partly along the coast and partly inland past colourful Buddhist temples. I
watched in amazement as villagers dried and prepared nipa leaf paper for
rolling cigarettes. The young leaves are dried in the sun and then neatly
folded until used or sold. I would’ve had significantly more info if I could
speak Thai. Not a great deal further a Naga Buddha temple provided an
opportunity to snatch a few pics.
Our
path ran across rivers where fishing boats lay three or four deep, waiting to
go out to sea. At the same time, villagers were busy drying tiny fishes on
large wooden racks in the sun. We biked past idyllic beaches and came upon a beautiful
coastal route sporting a cycle path. This relaxed ride continued to Bang Saphan
Beach which offered convenient bungalows across from the seafront.
The
weather was sweltering and jumping into the ocean came naturally. Once
showered, the food from the next-door restaurant was delicious, and the bill a
mere 190 Thai Baht (two plates of food plus beer).
20
March - Bang Saphan Beach – Ban Krut – 34 km
The
coastline north of Bang Saphan is easily one of the most beautiful and thus difficult
to leave without breakfast on the beach. A country road ran flush next to the
ocean, a cycle tourer’s dream. Our route meandered past snow-white sandy beaches
dotted with palm trees and lone hammocks. So idyllic was it shortly after leaving
a guesthouse at one of these “brochure-beautiful” spots enticed us in. The
remainder of the day was spent doing close to nothing, apart from swimming and
enjoying our beautiful surroundings.
21-22
March – Ban Krut – Prachuap Khiri Khan – 70 km
Janice
felt energetic, and we rode up the Khao Thong Chai Mountain to view its hilltop
temple, where our arrival coincided with the first tour busses. Afterwards, we ambled
along this beautiful stretch of coast. I was fascinated by a roadside shrine
slightly different from the rest. Not only did it include orange soda instead
of the usual red ones, but bright, colourful plastic flowers further adorned it.
To the one side of the shrine was a showcase storing beautiful silk clothing
and a shelter housing a small wooden canoe and two wooden figurines. It made me
wonder about its purpose.
We
went past a never-ending string of interesting stuff, from colourful temples to
people doing their daily chores. Some were fishing in ponds or making charcoal
from coconut shells. Others were selling wares from carts laden with goods—all
adding to an exciting day of touring.
Our
arrival in Prachuap was simultaneous with the setting up of food stalls, a good
time to arrive at one’s destination.
One
more day was spent in Prachuap. Maggie’s Homestay was a laid-back place where all
stayed longer than planned. Janice and I’d a whole host of things to do, and
the day, therefore, was spent doing the usual chores. Later, we visited the
Monkey Temple or Wat Thammikaram. Gangs of monkeys (macaques) live at the
temple, which sported a monkey fountain where they hung out. These clever
creatures have learned how to undo brick paving and use it to crush nuts and
other stones. Interesting was watching one who found a shard of mirror and
couldn’t stop looking at herself. Mothers tenderly cared for newborns while young
ones ran amok. Even more compelling was the “Monkey Lady,” an elderly lady
selling bananas from a bicycle to farangs at 20 Thai baht a bunch. She appeared
from the lower strata of society but was as sharp as any business executive.
Try as you might, there was no getting a picture of her until handing over the
20 baht. The bananas were priced the same as the market but were clearly only
edible by monkeys. She was indeed a clever lady.
23
March - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Sam Roi National Park – 74 km
As
Janice wanted to pop into the bike shop, which only opened at 9, we packed up
at leisure. The coastal road passed picturesque fishing villages where we came
upon a festival (or funeral). It could’ve been a Hindu gathering with a band,
food enough to feed all of Thailand, dancing, and coconuts smashing. Dancing or
chanting, a coconut was randomly thrown at a waiting “batsman” who would whack
it to pieces using a baseball-like bat. My request to take pics was granted.
However, I was unsure how far I could push the permission so readily granted
and therefore stayed on the outskirts. Departing, I was sorry as one could’ve
snapped a few unique pictures if bold enough to become part of the gathering.
We
turned off the highway and noticed a beautiful little railway station. The
station was in excellent condition featuring well-maintained and manicured
gardens. Sadly, the stationmaster spoke no English. Our route passed many
beautiful temples aiming for Khao Sam Roi National Park. The plan was to
explore this famous cave temple in the morning. Baan Pak Rimkong guesthouse was
a convenient place on stilts on the river and where fishing boats were moored
outside our window.
24-25
March – Sam Roi - Hua Hin – 58 km
A
10-minute boat ride took us around the headland to Laem Sala Beach. A steep
trail headed up the mountain, around a 15-minute walk to the top of the hill,
and then a gentle descent into the Phraya Nakon cave. A hole in the cave
ceiling allows light to shine onto the temple. Sadly, the weather was overcast,
and we didn’t see the light shaft. Still, we snapped a few pics, before
returning to the bikes.
A
coastal route led further north. Shortly before Hua Hin, a cycle path made easy
riding into this touristy city. The place was swarming with tourists, and we
located Bird Guest House; a rickety place on stilts over the water in the old
part of town. The wooden deck made a perfect place to enjoy the cool evening
air while watching the tide roll in.
The
following morning, I took a jog along the beach, followed by a dip in the
ocean. However, the water, at 30˚C, didn’t help in cooling me. Hua Hin’s bike
shop was well stocked, and Janice bought new cycling shorts, a bicycle pump,
and a handlebar bag with space for a phone.
26
March – Hua Hin – Samut Songkhram – 112 km
We
were late in getting underway, something which became the norm. Luckily,
cycling was easy and interesting. At first, the plan was to stop mid-way to
Samut Songkhram, but Janice felt energetic, and we pushed on. En route were a
few interesting things. One was the Hau Hin airport runway that crossed the
road. Mercifully, this was via a bridge across the street. Still, it remained odd
seeing planes come into land heading straight in our direction.
Our
chosen route followed small paths, to such an extent, it ended up between salt
pans and eventually we’d to walk our bikes to the main road. However, the most
amazing part of the day was watching workers carrying salt from the salt pan to
sheds. Both men and women, of all ages, scooped salt into bamboo baskets
hanging from shoulder poles, and then, with a bouncing stride, carted their
heavy loads to the shed. I was shocked at seeing what looked like kids, no
older than 10 or 12 years, working in the salt mines. I didn’t expect to see
that in modern Thailand.
One
got thirsty just watching them and a nearby stand selling sugarcane juice lured
as in. The ice-cold drinks were greedily gulped down before continuing to Samut
Songkram, where our arrival coincided with the setting up of food stands. Although
the food looked tempting, we pointed our cycles in the direction of Hometown Hostel,
and as this was my third time at this lovely hostel, it almost felt like home.
27-28
March – Samut Songkhram – Kanchanaburi – 117 km
Samut
Songkhram was home to the famous Maeklong Railway Market where a warren of
stalls spilt over onto the railway line. As the train approached traders
hastily moved produce and canopies a mere metre away, leaving barely enough
space for the train to pass. At snail’s pace the train creeps through the
crowded market, and once past, the whole shebang goes back into place in record
time. Afterwards, trade continued as before—only to follow the same procedure
when the next train arrived.
En
route to Kanchanaburi a kind man stopped and handed me a large plastic bag containing
water, biscuits, and flavoured milk. How awesome is that? As often happened, he
commented, “You must be strong.” I wanted to reply, “Out of all the things I
am, strong isn’t one of them, but I only smiled and nodded.
Once
I caught up to Janice, we parked off in the shade to devour our gift.
Kanchanaburi sported bungalows at Rainbow Lodge, right on the River Kwai at 250
baht, which couldn’t be any more convenient. No sooner were the panniers
unpacked and we sat watching the sunset over the famous River Kwai.
An
additional day was spent in Kanchanaburi, allowing enough time to explore the
sad history of what is now known as the “Death Railway”. Looking at the rows
and rows of graves at the war cemetery, an incredible sadness came over me as
I, once again, realised there’s no limit to humanity’s greed for power.
Although, I guess there never was and never will be.
29
March – Kanchanaburi – Suphan Buri – 98 km
An
additional cyclist arrived at Rainbow Lodge, and the chatter continued a while
before setting out. The day turned out easy and fascinating riding. Views of
rice paddies, sugar cane fields, beautiful temples, and ancient ruins became a
familiar scene. Our first stop was at Wat Phra That or Wat Phra That Sala Khao.
Excavations indicated the temple was built from 1424 to 1488 during Phra Borommaracha
11. The weather was hot and humid, and we were happy when a lady arrived,
selling ice-cold drinks. Our second stop was at Wat Kuti Song, but I could not
find information about its origin.
In
Suphan Buri, an inexpensive room at the very contradictorily named Delux Hotel
was our spot that night. Unfortunately, the room only had one faint light, to
such an extent that we’d to use our torches to find our belongings. Having a
shower, the towel rail fell off the wall indicating the Delux part of the name clearly
referred to a different era.
30-31
March - Supahn Buri – Lop Buri – 86 km
Certain
days are more exciting or bizarre than others. On this day the temples all
claimed to have something special. One boasted ancient ruins; another claimed
to have the most beautiful Buddha statue in Thailand. One featured a 300-year-old
sacred tree and sculptures of Buddha riding a giant bee. By following secondary
roads, we came upon fascinating stalls. Not only did they sell the usual fruit
(accompanied by a sugar-and-chilli mix), but also grilled squirrels. There’s certainly
not a dull moment when travelling by bicycle.
Although
our arrival in Lop Buri was early, the weather was far too hot to explore. The
weather report indicated the temperature was 37˚C, but it felt like 40˚C.
Lopburi is an ancient town offering an abundance of old ruins all within easy
walking distance. Today the town is occupied by ordinary Thai life and a gang
of monkeys.
We
walked out at around 5:50, and albeit still sweltering, the weather was more
bearable. The famous Lop Buri sites were already closed by then. Instead, a
visit to the monkey temple left me in awe of how similar monkey family life is
to our own, and I could spend hours observing them. Cute as they were, they
could be quite a menace.
We
were up early to explore the temples before the heat set in. I witnessed a
monkey giving birth, and I watched in wonderment as the mother cared for her
newborn. The delivery was a messy affair, and not for the squeamish, as she ate
the placenta while possessively clutching her little one. Even though she
allowed me quite close, she didn’t tolerate other monkeys. If any of them
approached, she would hug the baby and placenta (both still attached to her)
aggressively, baring her teeth. It’s typical behaviour as males often kill
newborn monkeys to make room for themselves. Eventually, she turned her back to
the world and sat facing the temple wall. Gosh, what an extraordinary event to
watch.
1
April – Lopburi – Ayutthaya – 64 km
A
short and easy ride brought us to historical Ayutthaya where rivers encircle
this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam,
Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. With its ideal location between China,
India, and the Malay Archipelago, the city was Asia’s trading capital. By 1700
Ayutthaya had become the largest city globally with 1 million inhabitants. However,
all this came to a swift end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and
practically raised it to the ground. Afterwards, Bangkok was established as the
new capital.
Even
though I’ve been to this area numerously, I never got tired of exploring its
ruins. To me, this is where the Thais reached the pinnacle of their regional
dominance and where the Thai culture was shaped into what it is today.
Home
was Baan Lotus; an old schoolhouse converted into a guesthouse. I couldn’t
believe the owner remembered me. It always floored me when people recognised me
as thousands of guests must walk through their doors. We’d a quick shower and
then hopped on the bicycles to investigate the ruins. Nearly all buildings were
built in the Thai heyday, between 1350–1767. Strange how they warded off
Western assaults but eventually fell to the Burmese.
2
April – Ayutthaya – Bangkok – 80 km
The
way into Bangkok followed a quiet route next to a canal and then a path along
the new Skytrain (still under construction at the time). We sailed into hectic
Bangkok like two pros and arrived at our destination in the Khaosan Road area
while the rest of Bangkok was still “siesta-ing”.
The
ride into Bangkok further ended Janice’s tour of Southeast Asia. Luckily, nearly
a week remained to enjoy amazing Bangkok and all it offered before Janice’s
flight home.
3-4
April - Bangkok
Janice
and I wandered around crazy Bangkok, walked along the canals and uncovered a
few of the city’s weird places. By evening we met up with Andre and Anton
(friends from the UAE) and ate at my favourite dim-sum restaurant in Chinatown.
The
next night we met again at their fancy resort hotel for a bite to eat. Andre
and Anton picked up the tab on both occasions - how generous of them.
4-7
April – Bangkok
The
days passed quickly and soon the time came for Janice to pack her bicycle and
panniers and get ready to fly home to South Africa.
