Photo by Grant Webb
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| Photo by Grant Webb |
SOUTH AFRICA & LESOTHO
1 767 Kilometres – 34 Days
27 March - 4 May 2007
PHOTOS
27
March - Cape Town, South Africa - Kleinmond
On a
seemingly ordinary day, I embarked on a journey that would reshape my life and
span nearly two decades. On the 27th of March in 2007, my friend Ernest and I
bid farewell to our loved ones and set off on our bicycles, venturing into the
unknowns of Africa. Although unfinished business kept me from joining Ernest
until later that evening in Kleinmond, a small coastal village, I set out with
a sense of anticipation and adventure.
Selling
my business, house, cars, and belongings was incredibly daunting and revealed
just how much I had accumulated over the years. In the process, I realised my
bicycle was too heavily laden and wisely discarded a few items which I believed
were of utmost importance just the day prior. After signing all the necessary
forms and getting a ride from my sister, I finally arrived at the campsite
where Ernest was waiting for me.
During
his ride, Ernest indulged in a few too many beers, which led to an unfortunate
lapse in judgment. He left behind his backpack, which contained all his
valuables when he ordered a takeaway meal. In a heart-warming turn of events,
the owner of the fish and chips shop he visited drove all the way to the
campsite to return his bag. This was the first of many random acts of kindness
on our journey, restoring our faith in humanity.
Our
journey was a steep learning curve as we were “fresh off the boat,” so to
speak, and we had no idea what was in store. It was an adventure we would
remember for the rest of our lives, filled with challenges, surprises, and
unforgettable experiences.
28
March - Kleinmond - Hermanus – 38 km
As
we began packing our belongings, a surge of excitement for the journey ahead
washed over me. It was the first of many packing sessions to follow, and the
thrill of the unknown was tangible.
We
set off on a short and effortless ride to Hermanus, a charming seaside town
renowned for whale-watching opportunities. Upon arrival, we were warmly
embraced by Ernest's sister, Olga, and her friend, Donovan, who treated us to a
lavish lunch. Their generous gesture filled us with gratitude and appreciation.
After
lunch, Ernest and I leisurely cycled to our friends, Dave and Kathy's holiday
flat, which they generously offered us. The flat was a haven of luxury, and we
couldn't have been more content to be there after a night of camping. It was
the ideal spot to unwind and rejuvenate after a day of cycling.
29
March - Hermanus – Gansbaai (Goose Bay) - 53 km
Departing
from our luxurious abode was much later than planned, and it seemed like an
eternity before we got going. Our route led directly into the notorious
south-easterly wind, a fierce wind that torments the coastal regions. Stopping
by the Birkenhead Brewery in Stanford proved to be a less-than-ideal decision.
Upon leaving, we were met with near-gale force winds, making it a daunting task
to make our way towards Gansbaai, a quaint fishing village recognised for its
cage-diving activities. Despite the windy conditions, we decided to camp at the
small campsite beside the ocean. I couldn't help but worry that our tents might
take off with us inside.
Walking
to a nearby restaurant required us to hold onto each other and lean heavily
into the wind, using all our strength to make progress. The Southeaster can be
a genuinely challenging experience, to say the least. Eish!
30
March - Gansbaai - Bredasdorp - 101 km
The
night was a test of survival, but we made it. The wind, which had been
relentless, subsided ever so slightly during the night. We were relieved to
have a slight break from the harsh weather, and packing up was a speedy affair,
so we hopped on our bikes towards Pearly Beach. However, the word
"hopping" does not accurately describe my state. Despite the wind
being less intense than the previous day, it was still howling and required all
my concentration and energy to keep moving forward. It seemed determined to
drive us back to where we started.
Unfortunately,
the dirt track from The Dam to Bredasdorp was in poor condition, with sand and
heavy corrugations. I was exhausted and struggled to climb the hills,
questioning the wisdom of this trip.
As
we reached the campsite in Bredasdorp, I realised that embarking on a long
bicycle ride without proper training was foolish. However, it was too late for
second thoughts, as I had already sold all my belongings and had nothing to
return to except for the two residential properties that were let. Finally,
with a sore backside, I pitched the tent and turned in early.
31
March - Bredasdorp - Swellendam – 76 km
The
stretch of road between Bredasdorp and Swellendam was surprisingly hilly, and I
was taken aback by the undulating hills that seemed to go on forever. The dirt
road wound through vast farmlands, dotted with curious-looking sheep that watched
us intently as we passed. The sweltering weather added to our challenges,
leaving us, as two inexperienced travellers, in quite a predicament.
That's
when Ernest, my travel companion, jumped over a fence and filled our bottles
from a nearby sheep trough. It was no surprise to encounter sheep in the
Bredasdorp area, as the town was founded on a farm in 1838, marking the start
of merino sheep farming in the region. Even today, sheep farming remains a cornerstone
of the area's agricultural activities.
Finally,
we arrived at the picturesque town of Swellendam, the third-oldest European
settlement in South Africa. Exhausted and drained, I collapsed at a corner
store. The day proved to be far more challenging than anticipated. But after
quenching our thirst with cold Coke and replenishing our water reserves, we
were back on track, heading towards the campsite.
It
was a beautiful spot nestled in the shadows of the Langeberg Mountains, an ideal
place to rest and recharge before embarking on the next leg of our journey.
1
April - Swellendam - Heidelberg – 60 km
I
woke feeling refreshed and energetic, and eager to take on the challenges of
the day. Though I had driven this route countless times before, I hadn’t
appreciated just how steep and unforgiving the terrain could be. The weight of
my loaded bike, combined with the gusty
winds, added to the difficulty of the uphill climb. However, I was determined
to push myself and keep going, admiring the breath-taking landscapes that
surrounded me. The area was sparsely populated, and I could see vast expanses
of wheat and sheep farms spread across the rolling hills.
As
the day progressed, we made a few stops at farmstalls to refill our water
bottles, taking in the peaceful solitude of the countryside. By midday, we
reached the picturesque little town of Heidelberg, and chose to stay the night
at a charming Cape-Dutch-style guesthouse.
Heidelberg
was one of many settlements established by European settlers around a church in
the 1800s. However, it was primarily the railway line established in the early
1900s that brought growth and development to the town. In time, Heidelberg
became a vital transport link for the area’s wool, wheat, fruit, and tobacco
industries.
2-3
April - Heidelberg – Still Bay - 72 km
As
we departed from Heidelberg, we were greeted by the warm and friendly nature of
the locals, which left a lasting impression. While on the road, we were
approached by a kind-hearted lady who offered us accommodation at Still Bay,
where our journey was headed. Her kindness made me ponder if I would ever do
the same.
We
thanked her for her generous offer but politely declined as my family had a
holiday house at Still Bay. However, since my mother lived in the same small
seaside village, we decided to make a detour and visit her. We continued our
journey down the hilly road and made our first stop at Riversdale to replenish
our supplies. Noticing our fatigue, the petrol attendant jokingly asked if our
hydration backpacks were filled with oxygen instead of water, giving us a good
chuckle.
As
we biked up hills with names like Skerpkoppies and Langhoogte, which mean
“Steep Hill” and “Long Hill”, respectively, I couldn't help but think an oxygen
backpack might not be such a bad idea. Eventually, we arrived at Still Bay,
where my mother's house came into view. We were greeted with a delicious bowl
of macaroni cheese, one of my favourite meals. My mother always accommodated my
vegetarian diet, even though she thought it was silly. She never mentioned it,
and for the past thirty years she made me a separate meal. Looking back, I
realised she was used to catering to everyone's preferences, as three family
members didn't eat tomatoes.
The
following day was spent in Still Bay, where we tried to explain to the locals
why anyone would want to bike through Africa twice. It was a day filled with
reflection, good food, and the realisation that a mother's love is
unconditional and irreplaceable.
4
April – Still Bay - Mossel Bay – 100 km
Tailwind
assisted, Ernest and I left Still Bay to bike along a gravel path past Gourits
River to Mossel Bay. This picturesque ride featured ocean vistas and pristine
natural vegetation. We camped at The Point Caravan Park in the harbour town of
Mossel Bay.
Fellow
campers warmly greeted us and, after exchanging pleasantries, we headed into
town for supper. Upon returning to camp, we noticed that our bicycle touring
journey had caught the attention of many people. Ernest and I were met with
endless questions, such as 'Where are you from?' and 'Where are you going? It
made me realise that while I knew where I came from, I had no concrete plans
for the future.
After
my 2005 journey from Cairo to Cape Town, I longed for another cycling adventure
and began preparing for it. I sold two of my properties, which helped pay off
all outstanding debts, leaving me with two fully paid residential properties
that I rented out. I then bought a new bike and ordered panniers and racks, but
I still hadn't decided on a route. I was also trying to convince Ernest to join
me, but he had shown no interest.
To
my surprise, Ernest presented me with a sketch of bicycle racks that he had
designed for his bike. He had never mentioned being interested in joining me or
undertaking such a trip. Ernest has always been a man of few words, and it's
always hard to tell what's going on in his mind.
5
April - Mossel Bay – Wilderness - 73 km
The breath-taking
Garden Route, stretching 300 kilometres along South Africa's south-eastern
coast, spans from Mossel Bay to Storms River. It's a place of awe-inspiring
beauty, with its abundance of diverse plant life and an array of estuaries and
lakes. Cycling through this picturesque area, we were captivated by the
magnificent vistas.
Our
journey led us to George, where we stopped at the bike shop to say hello to our
good friend, Julian. After that, we continued to Wilderness, where we visited
the Ebb and Flow campsite. Situated on the Touws River in the Wilderness
National Park, this campsite is one of my favourite places in South Africa.
Unfortunately, the camp shop was closed, but we were pleasantly surprised when
a fellow camper offered us six beers, refusing any payment. It was an
incredibly generous gesture that we appreciated immensely.
In
the late afternoon, we cycled three kilometres to the village and enjoyed a
lovely meal at a restaurant. Cycling back to the campsite in the dark after
having a glass or two of wine was quite a challenge, but we managed to make it
back safely and without getting drenched by any rain.
6
April - Wilderness
We woke
to a persistent drizzle, the perfect excuse to crawl back in our sleeping bags and
enjoy the symphony of louries and the chatter of other birds. My sister Amanda visited
and the three of us spent a relaxing day together, enjoying each other's
company without any specific itinerary.
While
we were taught in school that South Africa was isolated when Europeans arrived,
archaeological evidence shows that it was part of a vast region, including
North and East Africa, where modern humans first evolved. For nearly two
million years, thousands of generations of Stone Age hunter-gatherers called
South Africa home, especially in this area. Despite this, many still hold the
misconception that the region was uninhabited when the Europeans arrived in the
1600s.
7
April - Wilderness – Knysna - 53 km
The
day started off promisingly as we set out on our bicycles, but soon, we found
ourselves battling a storm-strength wind. Despite the challenging conditions,
we managed to make our way into Knysna, thanks to Amanda, who kindly
transported our panniers, allowing us to cycle without any added weight.
Knysna,
once home to the indigenous Khoisan people, was eventually occupied by
Europeans. The town's name is derived from the Khoisan language, meaning
"place of wood" or "fern leaves." Today, Knysna is a
popular holiday destination for tourists. It is known for its annual Oyster
Festival, which takes place from June to July. Ernest and I have been lucky
enough to participate in the festival's highly popular marathon and
half-marathon many times in the past.
Upon
arriving in Knysna, we were immediately drawn to the bustling waterfront, which
offered a variety of attractions for visitors. We joined the crowds of
tourists, watching a game of cricket and enjoying a delicious meal. However, as
the South Africans were facing an impending defeat, we decided to head back to
our campsite. Upon our return, we were surprised to find that new campers had
invaded our site.
8
April - Knysna – Keurboom Strand - 47 km
We
left Knysna on a day marked by brilliant weather, though it came with its
challenges. Our journey out of the valley involved a steep climb that required
some effort. Thankfully, Amanda followed us in the van, carrying our panniers.
This allowed Ernest and me to focus on the ride, making it a more enjoyable
experience.
We
had initially planned to camp at Keurbooms River but, upon arrival, we found
the prices had been raised. Disappointed but undeterred, we decided to cycle
towards Keurboom Strand instead.
One
of the most memorable aspects of our journey was the kindness of the people we
met along the way. Many of them went out of their way to make our trip more
comfortable. Some offered to charge our iPods, while others even provided us
with food and accommodation. It was heartening to see how welcoming and
hospitable people could be to complete strangers.
9
April – Keurboom Strand – Storms River Village - 58 km
Just
beyond Keurboom Strand was Storms River, and the road leading there was a
treat, winding through the stunning Tsitsikamma National Park. The area offered
an exciting array of adventure activities, ranging from bridge swings to tubing
and even five-day hiking trails for the most adventurous souls.
The
weather was perfect for riding, with the sun shining down and a gentle breeze
pushing us forward. Along the way, we ran into my good friend Nico, who had
driven from Knysna to meet us. Being an experienced cyclist, he came prepared,
bringing with him a refreshing bottle of Coke and some delicious hot cross
buns. Thank you, Doc! We chatted for a while, catching up on each other's lives
and sharing a few laughs before continuing our journey towards Storms River
Village. Rejuvenated by Nico's refreshments, we pressed on towards Storms
River, with the stunning scenery heightening the excitement of the ride.
Arriving
at the Backpackers, our camping spot for the night, we were greeted by a warm
and welcoming atmosphere. Lush green gardens surrounded the site, and the
friendly hosts made us feel right at home.
It
was the perfect end to an exhilarating day of adventure and cycling.
10
April - Storms River - Jeffreys Bay - 114 km
As
Ernest and I cycled through the beautiful Tsitsikamma National Park, a
favourable tailwind propelled us effortlessly towards Jeffreys Bay, a renowned
surfing destination. The long descent and strong tailwind made it the perfect
day for cycling.
Our
destination for the night was the picturesque Kabbeljous Campsite, where we
eagerly pitched our tents before seeking out our friends Mark and Riekie. Unable
to resist, we ordered pizzas, and Riekie generously offered to do our laundry.
It was a much-needed gesture, as my laundry stank to high heaven — a nuisance that
would become my nemesis in the years to follow.
11
April - Jeffreys Bay – Colchester - 116 km
We
woke up to a tailwind and took full advantage of the favourable cycling
conditions. Our destination for the day was Colchester, but the rural road via
Uitenhage proved to be slow and challenging. Despite the obstacles, we
persevered and pushed onward until finally reaching the tiny settlement of Colchester,
albeit later than we had anticipated.
We
had planned to cycle another five kilometres to the Sundays River campsite, but
the late hour and looming rain led us to reconsider. Instead, we opted to stay
in one of the village's cosy little bungalows.
Our
decision turned out to be a wise one, as no sooner had we settled in than the
rain came pouring down. The rain persisted all night, but we stayed snug and
warm inside our little wooden abode, listening to the rhythmic tap of the
raindrops on the roof.
12
April - Colchester – Paterson - 36 km
The
morning dawned clear and sunny, contrary to the weather forecast that had
predicted rain, as we pointed our bikes towards Paterson. Soon after, the route
veered off from the N2 and onto the N10, heading inland. My legs felt too tired
to continue, so I decided to call it a day at the small settlement of Paterson.
The
only campsite available was located in George and Helen's backyard, next to the
Red House farm stall. The site was an interesting affair, as their yard was
home to a variety of farm animals, including chickens, ducks, and a gaggle of
geese.
While
in this area, it is impossible not to mention the tragic life of Saartjie
Baartman. Born in 1789, she lost both parents at a young age. She moved to Cape
Town and worked as a domestic help after her partner, with whom she had a baby,
was murdered by a Dutch colonist. In October 1810, despite being illiterate,
Saartjie allegedly signed a contract with English ship surgeon William Dunlop,
agreeing to travel to England to participate in shows. She became famous for
her highly protuberant buttocks, a condition known as "steatopygia".
Her appearance made her the subject of fascination in Europe, where she was
exhibited at London's Piccadilly Circus venue and paraded in freak shows across
London and Paris. Wealthy customers paid for private demonstrations at their
homes, where guests could observe her at close range and even touch her.
Sadly,
Saartjie Baartman died at the young age of 26 on December 29, 1815, most likely
due to syphilis, alcoholism, and pneumonia. However, her exhibition continued
even after her death. Her brain, skeleton, and sexual organs remained displayed
in a Paris museum until 1974. Her remains were eventually repatriated and
buried in 2002. Today, she is seen as a symbol of colonial exploitation and
racism, embodying
an almost unimaginable tragedy.
13
April - Paterson – Middelton - 70 km
We began
our day with freshly baked roosterkoek and steaming hot coffee at the Red House
farmstall. Energised and eager to explore, we hit the road that led us over the
Olifantskop Pass. The climb was steep and challenging, but the breath-taking
views of rolling hills and endless natural beauty at the top made it worthwhile.
We were lucky enough to spot giraffes and playful monkeys, adding to our
already fantastic experience.
As
we continued biking, we found ourselves in the heart of the Blue Crane Route, a
bird watcher's paradise with approximately 350 species of birds in the area. Our
next stop was the hamlet of Middleton, and we were pleasantly surprised to find
a unique guesthouse. It was an old railway station, beautifully converted into
a cosy guesthouse with modern amenities. Our stay was even more special because
enthusiastic youngsters from the Noupoort Drug Rehabilitation Centre managed
the restaurant. We savoured a delicious supper, and the warm hospitality of the
staff made us feel right at home.
As
the night drew closer, we retreated to our tents and prepared for the cold
April night. However, we were not prepared for just how freezing it got.
Despite the chilly weather, excitement and memories of the day kept us warm as
we drifted off to sleep, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us on
the next day of our journey.
14
April - Middelton - Farm outside Cradock - 83 km
We
left earlier than usual, planning to stop for a hearty breakfast along the way.
Our first stop was the tiny settlement of Cookhouse, which, despite being
smaller than our previous stop in Paterson, still offered us a much-needed
meal. However, a strong headwind hindered our progress, making our journey
painfully slow. As we made our way up the challenging terrain of Daggaboersnek,
our pace slowed even further.
Fortunately,
we stumbled upon a charming farm stall at the top of the pass, where we met a
friendly couple from Cradock who recommended a cosy farm guest cottage roughly
25 kilometres before our final destination. With renewed energy and excitement,
we set out towards our new resting spot, arriving just before the sun began to
set.
The
cabin was remarkably comfortable, and our host, Elza went above and beyond to
make us feel welcome. As soon as we had settled in, she surprised us with a
delicious spread of fresh milk, bread, cheese, and fruit. It was an ideal way
to end a long, exhausting day on the road.
15
April - Farm - Cradock Spa - 33 km
Our
late departure was due to our plans to overnight in Cradock, a charming town on
the banks of the Great Fish River, located just 30 kilometres from our starting
point. With no rush, we took our time exploring the area, which boasts a rich
and fascinating history dating back thousands of years when the San
hunter-gatherers were the earliest human inhabitants of southern Africa.
However,
like many parts of South Africa, Cradock is marked by the scars of colonialism
and apartheid. One of the most tragic events in the town's history is the
abduction and murder of the Cradock Four. These four brave activists - Matthew
Goniwe, Sparrow Mkhonto, Fort Calata, and Sicelo Mhlauli - were abducted and
brutally killed in 1985. Their bodies and the vehicle were burnt, and the
incident remains a dark chapter in the town's history. The Cradock Four
Memorial, honouring their sacrifice, was erected in Lingelihle, a nearby township,
on 22 July 2000.
After
this sobering experience, we set off towards the town centre, where a gusty
breeze and a quiet atmosphere greeted us. We decided to have a quick lunch
before heading to Cradock Spa, located just four kilometres outside town. Though
slightly run-down, the establishment offered a relaxing spot to soak in its
natural sulphur waters, which are rumoured to have therapeutic properties for
rheumatism. Overall, our stay at Cradock was a mix of emotions, from learning
about its rich history to experiencing its natural wonders.
16
April - Cradock Spa
The
next day, we decided to take it easy and rejuvenate our senses at the spa.
However, we had to step out of our tranquil setting to cycle to the nearby
village to purchase a few essentials. During our visit to the village, we
stumbled upon an internet café inside a hair salon. Despite the sluggish internet
connection, we managed to send a few important emails.
17
April - Cradock Spa – Hofmeyr - 62 km
The
morning dawned clear and sunny as we biked to the subsequent settlement. The
countryside was vast and extraordinary. Unfortunately, Ernest ended up with two
flat tyres, but we soon came upon Hofmeyr, a small community with three dirt
lanes and one paved road. Typical of a small Karoo town, Hofmeyr had tin-roofed
homes, pepper willows, a church, a small shop, a school, and a police station.
Hofmeyr surprisingly had a small B&B known as The Pondokkie, owned by
friendly Joey and Derick. Again, the evening was spent in front of the TV. At
least this time the South African cricket team won. Phew, I thought I would
never see the day!
18
April - Hofmeyr – Steynsburg - 46 km
Following
a wholesome breakfast, Derick sent us on our way with a copy of the paper and a
packet of fudge. Fuelled by the sugar, we sailed up the hills and through the
shrubby vegetation between Hofmeyr and Steynsburg. Despite the ominous dark
clouds looming in the distance, we were determined to press on.
Our
perseverance paid off as we finally reached the tiny town of Steynsburg, which
was established around a church in 1872. As we explored the town, we were
struck by its modest size and peaceful ambience. We stumbled upon the Redefin
Campsite, which was a pleasant surprise. The campsite featured lush green
lawns, well-maintained barbeque pits, a covered area, and well-maintained
facilities. Since the storms held off, it was the perfect time to repair tubes
and handle odd jobs.
The
weather looked promising, and we set out to the little mini-mart to buy meat
and wood for a barbecue. However, Africa's unpredictable weather had its own
ideas. As we were admiring the extraordinary cloud formations, a sudden storm
hit, and rain came pouring down. We scrambled for shelter and rushed to secure
our tents, but it was too late. However, as quickly as the storm began, it
subsided, and the stars came out, revealing a clear and cloudless sky.
Although
our plans for a barbecue were dampened by the rain, we were grateful to have
experienced the beauty and unpredictability of the African weather.
19
April - Steynsburg – Burgersdorp - 79 km
I
woke to a brilliantly clear morning and could hardly believe the previous
night’s storm. Once packed up, our route veered towards Burgersdorp, which is
only a slightly larger town than Steynsburg and dates back to 1869 when a
Theological Seminary was established in the area. The people of Steynsburg were
curious yet friendly—like the lady at the liquor store who gave Ernest a
discount on beer, and the cyclists who stopped by our camp.
The
campsite at The Dam offered serene beauty, shaded by towering, well-established
trees. The recreational area must’ve been very popular in its heyday.
Unfortunately, most of the facilities had fallen into a state of disrepair by
the time of our visit. However, Andries Pienaar, the caretaker, assured us that
a hot water cylinder had arrived and only needed installation.
This
time, we took extra precautions and pitched our tents under cover, making sure
that everything was securely closed before the storm arrived. As city dwellers,
we were learning fast, and we managed to see the stark difference in weather
patterns between Cape Town and the Eastern Cape. Cape Town is a winter rainfall
area, while the Eastern Cape enjoys summer rainfall and heavy thunderstorms,
which are almost unheard of in Cape Town.
20-21
April - Burgersdorp – Maletswai (formerly known as Aliwal North) - 67 km
Eager
to reach the hot springs in Maletswai, we set off early. I had visited the spa
many years ago and remembered it as a beautiful place. The weather treated us
kindly, with mild temperatures and vast blue skies, making cycling a joy.
Upon
arriving in Maletswai (Aliwal), founded in 1850 and situated upon the Orange
River, we headed straight to the hot springs, but we were met with
disappointment. The facilities had seen better days, with dilapidated
infrastructure, rusty metalwork, and peeling walls. Despite the poor condition,
we managed to find pleasure in soaking in the mineral-rich water of one of the
few remaining indoor pools.
After
our soak, we cycled into town and searched for a place to eat. Not knowing what
to expect, we were relieved to find the Spur Steak Ranch up to its usual good
standard. On our way back, we reflected on how lucky we were to have avoided the
storms brewing in the distance. But our luck was short-lived, as dark clouds
rolled in, and we found ourselves pedalling as fast as we could to make it back
before the storm hit. Just as we got inside our tents, thunder and lightning
started, and the rain came gushing down.
22
April – Maletswai – Zastron - 75 km
We
didn’t get underway until 12:30, after soaking in 34°C water. Our next stop was
to find camping gas in the nearby town, but it was a futile attempt, especially
on a Sunday in this conservative part of the country where Sundays are observed
as religious holidays.
With
the help of a tailwind, we leisurely made our way towards Zastron, a charming
agricultural town nestled at the foothills of the stunning Aasvoelberg. This
region is known for its rare Cape vultures, and we were eager to explore. Upon
our arrival, we were thrilled to discover a picturesque campsite with lush
green lawns shaded by massive trees and the sweet melody of chirping birds in
the background. The icing on the cake was the ablution facilities with piping
hot water, making our stay even more comfortable and enjoyable.
23
April – Zastron, South Africa – Mohale’s Hoek, Lesotho - 58 km
Ernest
dragged his heels, and it was already past ten by the time we left Zastron. Our
first stop was at the tourist information office, which was also a printer and
bike shop. Ernest, who was tired of constantly fixing punctures, decided to buy
sealant to keep the flat tyres under control.
We
were only 30 kilometres from the Lesotho border, so we headed towards this tiny
country on a gravel road. Lesotho, covering 30,355 km2, is the only independent
state in the world entirely above 1,000 meters in elevation. Over 80% of the
country is situated above 1,800 meters, with its lowest point being 1,400
meters. The country is entirely surrounded by South Africa.
After
crossing the border, Ernest couldn't resist stopping at a pub to sample the
Maluti Beer. With heavy legs, we then continued towards Mohale's Hoek. Our dirt
road took us over hills and past mountain villages with traditional mud huts
under thatched roofs. The sight of us on our bikes brought joy to the children
running through the fields, calling out, "Dumela, dumela!"
Upon
reaching Mohale's Hoek, we were tempted by the idea of staying at the Monateng
Hotel, which, although somewhat neglected, served ice-cold Maluti beers. Dinner
at the hotel was an interesting affair, offering a traditional meal of pap (maise
or corn porridge cooked to be either runny, soft, or stiff) served with marog
(a well-known traditional food cooked and used like spinach) and beans. Eating pap
traditionally with your fingers proved to be quite challenging for me. Although
pap and marog are not my favourite dishes, I could devour bowl after bowl of
samp and beans.
24
April - Mohales’s Hoek – Wepener - 74 km
The
next morning, our route took us via Mafeteng and Van Rooyen’s gate towards
South Africa. I was sad to leave Lesotho so soon, as the people were incredibly
friendly, and the country had a peaceful charm. Still, it appeared that Ernest
was in a hurry to get through Africa and cracks started appearing in the
partnership. Taking Lesotho’s mountainous location, the endless hills we encountered
were no surprise. Still, children came running through the fields to see what
two “whities” on bicycles were doing in their neck of the woods.
Wepener
had no official campground, so we spent an additional night in a guesthouse. Though
it stretched my budget, the guesthouse was exceptional, with a vast and
beautiful garden, spacious, well-decorated rooms, a lively bar, and great food.
I was, therefore, happy we didn’t bypass Wepener.
25
April - Wepener - Dewetsdorp - 43 km
As
we made our way towards Dewetsdorp, I considered whether to continue towards
Bloemfontein, still 70 kilometres away, or take a detour into Dewetsdorp and
explore the small village. To my surprise, Dewetsdorp offered lodging, and we
were lucky enough to receive a discount from the owner when he learned of our
little adventure. I must admit that we looked a bit dishevelled from our
journey.
Since
we arrived early, we had plenty of time to do laundry and catch up on the
latest cricket game. Unfortunately, the South African team had a rough day, so
we decided to fill our stomachs instead. To my delight, we stumbled upon a
charming little restaurant in Dewetsdorp serving delicious pizzas. It's amazing
how small towns can offer such delightful surprises, and I enjoyed our
unexpected discovery immensely.
26
April - Dewetsdorp – Bloemfontein - 80 km
We
departed Dewetsdorp at the crack of dawn, anticipating another day battling a
headwind which, as expected, persisted and marred our progress. Our
early start made slinking into the Backpackers hostel in Bloemfontein at around
lunchtime. Ernest located a bike shop to straighten his bicycle rim, indicating
the beginning of his ongoing bike problems.
27
April – Bloemfontein
After
spending an additional day in Bloemfontein, I decided to cycle across Europe
instead of sticking to my original plan of exploring Africa with my travel
companion, Ernest. Although we had known each other for over 30 years, our
differences had become unbearable, and I realised it was time for me to
continue my journey on my own. As I booked a flight to London, where I intended
to explore the UK and Europe on my bike, I couldn't help but think about how
little we knew about each other despite being friends for so long. That’s when
I realised that cycle touring, much like sailing, demands a unique set of
skills and dynamics. One can work well together on a yacht but not necessarily
connect on land, or vice versa. However, I was excited to embark on my solo journey,
albeit on a different continent.
While
in Bloemfontein, I had the opportunity to reconnect with my friend Rita, who
was participating in the Master's Athletics Championship in Bloemfontein. She
had competed in the 100m and 200m races and won both. I couldn't be prouder of
her accomplishment. Well done, speedy Rita!
28
April – Bloemfontein – Cape Town (by train)
I
rushed to the railway station, eager to catch the train to Cape Town, but as I
stepped inside, the scene that greeted me was anything but pleasant. The
station was deserted, with no staff in sight, and the floors were filthy. A
sense of unease settled over me.
To
make matters worse, the train was delayed by two hours. I spent my time pacing
up and down the platform, staring at my watch and cursing my luck. Finally, the
train arrived, and I made my way to my compartment with a sense of relief.
As
the train pulled out of the station, I caught a glimpse of Ernest, who had come
to see me off. To my surprise, he was smiling - a rare sight indeed. It was my
first time seeing him look so happy since leaving Cape Town. As I waved
goodbye, a weight lifted off my shoulders, and I felt both free and content to
continue my journey alone.
29
April - 4 May – Cape Town
Unlike
the station, the train was a pleasant surprise. The coaches were modern, and
the staff was accommodating and friendly, making for a great experience. The next
day, the train arrived in Cape Town station exactly on time. Over the following
days, I spent my time boxing up my bicycle and repacking panniers for my flight
to London, feeling a surge of excitement as my adventure continued.
5
May – Cape Town, South Africa – London, United Kingdom
After
numerous phone calls to various SAA offices, I finally confirmed that I need to
take my bicycle as luggage. However, the quoted price had me worried that the
flight would end up being an expensive affair. To make matters worse, my
essential items alone weighed a hefty 25kg, and the bicycle added another 25kg
to the total.
When
I approached the check-in counter, bank card in hand, I braced myself for the
high transport fee. To my surprise, I was informed that the payment was a
significantly smaller, once-off charge. My relief was immense! Finally, I could
relax before the my 12-hour flight to London.
