CYCLE TOURING EUROPE - PART ONE

 

40-42 EUROPE - PART 1
1 June – 4 July 2011
1 915 Kilometres - 33 Days

MAP

PHOTOS - FRANCE 1

PHOTOS - GERMANY

PHOTOS - AUSTRIA

PHOTOS - SLOVAKIA

PHOTOS - HUNGARY (2)

EUROPE

An unexpected turn of events sent me from the Americas to South Africa to obtain a European visa. Usually, my route takes me on a continuous path from country to country. Still, this time I abandoned the Americas midway. Albeit not my first choice, it was exciting to make this significant leap from South America. My struggle to obtain a Schengen visa forced me to initially book myself onto a pricy organised tour. This meant joining a group of cyclists for an entire month. The price included the transport of panniers, food and accommodation. There’s a first for everything.

 

1 June 2011

A whole month passed doing zero except eating, drinking and smoking. I was thus itching to return to the familiar routine of biking. Hence, I was ready to scurry off to Paris to meet the tour. My worldly possessions were hurriedly stuffed in a single bag (apart from the bicycle, of course). I’m convinced I’m one of a tiny group of people whose material positions fit into one bag. The tour organisers clearly stated that one could bring 2 x 90-litre bags, but all my stuff fitted into one bag. This made me wonder what the others were taking. I guessed it would soon be revealed what would be in those bags.

 

 

40 France (1)

510 Km – 10 Days

 

2 June - Cape Town, South Africa – Paris, France

At last, I was on my way to Europe via Abu Dhabi and onto Paris. The flight was relatively uneventful - merely the usual hours of boredom.

 

3 June - Paris

Soon enough, though, my flight touched down in Paris, located on the River Seine and home to Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint-Laurent, etc. I, nonetheless, had little use for these stores.

At the pre-arranged hotel, the other cyclists were already busy reassembling bikes in the wake of long flights. With the help of our bicycle mechanic, Gergo, my bike was soon in tip-top shape. My bike lock seemed the sole thing of importance left behind. Marion and Barry (from Australia) kindly lent me one of theirs until I could replace mine. Together with David and Edna (also from Australia), we’d had a bite to eat and all turned in early after our long flights.

 

4 June - Paris – 35 km

The group departed the hotel early morning to cycle to the city centre. The traffic was light, which made a great amble through the streets of Paris. Past the Eiffel Tower, around the Arc de Triomphe and onto the Louvre. Following a coffee break we returned to the bicycles to ride along the bank of the River Seine, ending at our hotel. Our guides, Ricardo, Miles and Gergo, gave a short briefing on what to expect during the following days. Everything looked well-organised, and it appeared we had a relaxing month ahead.

I searched for a bike shop, invested in a helmet and bike lock, and was as keen as the rest of the group to get underway and see what Europe had in store for us.

 

5 June - Paris – Chenoise – 71 km

At last, I was on my trusted iron horse and couldn’t have been happier. We left Paris in a group and I felt like a dork as my fellow cyclists were dressed in full cycling gear, whereas I was in my usual shorts, sandals and T-shirt.

However, it was effortless meandering through the French countryside and past tiny hamlets. Lunch was under trees before tackling the last few kilometres into Chenoise. Arrival at the campsite was early. Being our first day of riding, everyone fidgeted and sorted out tents and gear. The camp was located on a farm with an extremely, as could be expected, French-looking farmhouse and loads of horses, donkeys and ponies.

 

6 June - Chenoise – Troyes – 90 km

Being early June, the day dawned early and the farm animals made sure no one overslept. With breakfast done, all felt energetic and ready to roll.

At Provins, our path veered off to the old walled city with its ancient castle and old houses. Later, we returned to our country lane, past vast farmlands, poppy fields and small settlements. These communities were tiny and highly French-looking, with stone-built houses and pretty windowsill flowers. Things were somewhat organised and orderly in France to such an extent that the villages biked through resembled ghost towns, as no peep came from any of the properties. Even the “riot” encountered was so peaceful the march appeared a well-rehearsed play.

We were pleasantly surprised to find we were booked into a very comfortable hotel. What luxury! Troyes is the historic capital of Champagne, and I was looking forward to sampling some of their excellent sparkling wine.

 

7 June - Troyes

An additional day was spent in Troyes, famed for its wood-framed houses and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul. Word had it, The Order of the Knights Templar was founded in 1128 by the Council of Troyes. Naturally, I was keen to find out more about this mysterious history. Nevertheless, I met no one belonging to the Order but uncovered heaps of Champagne and thoroughly enjoyed the day in Troyes.

 

8 June - Troyes – Val de Meuse – 140 km

Our hotel provided a hearty breakfast; once done, all were eager to get going. However, a nasty surprise awaited as the (locked) bicycles belonging to my fellow South Africans, Evlyn and Alf, disappeared from the hotel’s parking garage. I gained tremendous respect for them as they took this disaster in their stride without making a fuss. They hurried to the bike shop and bought two new bicycles to resume the tour.

While at the bike shop, the rest of us set off on a beautiful path through the countryside with numerous coffee and pastry breaks. Although reasonably cold, the ride was nonetheless enjoyable. When Evlyn and Alf pedalled into camp, their arrival was met with great applause for their strength of character and how they handled the whole fiasco. A few bottles of red wine were consumed, partly due to the cold and partly to celebrate the new bicycles. At 3 euros a bottle, we felt no guilt.

 

9 June - Val de Meuse – Plombieres-les-Bains – 88 km

With great reluctance, I crawled out of my warm sleeping bag as the weather was freezing. From time to time, the sun threatened to come out but to no avail. En route, we enjoyed the famed French cheese and bread; as expected, there was quite a good variety.

Plombieres came with tiny straight-up houses built along the mountainside and a few thermal baths. A small eatery provided coffee before cycling the two kilometres uphill to camp, where we arrived minutes ahead of the rain.

 

10 June - Plombieres-les-Bains – Munster - 86 km

Departing camp was in freezing weather. With teeth chattering, we sped downhill into misty valleys, past vineyards and quaint-looking hamlets. A long climb brought us to a ski resort (fortunately, it was summer), where we ate a light lunch accompanied by more coffee. Afterwards, we descended to the small settlement of Munster, where we arrived with frozen fingers and toes. Two riders lost their way but fortunately made it to Munster.

We slinked into camp reasonably early and enough time remained to wander through the streets of Munster, eyeing the storks nesting on the rooftops. Supper was at camp, accompanied by a good dose of French wine.

 

41 Germany

800 Km – 12 Days

 

11 June - Munster, France – Freiburg, Germany – 68 km

Shortly following breakfast, Alf, Evlyn and I set off on a gorgeous amble past timeless communities. A short ride brought us to the Rheine River. Next, the path crossed into Germany, where we immediately landed on a cycle path. The route led through farmlands, and the architectural difference was immediately evident.

Our hotel in Freiburg turned out especially elegant. Regrettably, I was somewhat ill-prepared for such an upmarket place. It felt claustrophobic in a room where one couldn’t open the windows. I guessed it came from living in a tent far too long. Alice and I shared a room. Alice was a lovely person and a strong cyclist from Canada. She, however, didn’t feel well and turned in early.

 

12 June - Freiburg

A day of sightseeing was spent in Freiburg (situated on the edge of the Black Forest). It’s a charming village with cobbled streets, trams, pavement cafes, street musicians, and a plethora of old buildings. Kids were floating boats in the water furrows and people were out and about enjoying the sunny weather.

Judging by the variety of beers available, one could tell this was indeed Germany. We wasted no time in sampling the various brews. In addition, there wasn’t any shortage of cuckoo clocks, as they originated from this part of the world. Freiburg further had an astonishing number of bicycles.

 

13 June - Freiburg – Donaueschingen – 75 km

A fabulous breakfast spread provided energy, and we saddled up and biked out of Freiburg. The road led partly through the Black Forest with gorgeous scenery. Dense forests lined our narrow path while a musty wooded smell permeated the air. The wood business still appeared in full swing and practically all houses were thus timber homes. The route wasn’t without a climb up a hill or two but came with an equally good descent.

Donaueschingen is the official start of the Danube River, signalling the end of our day’s ride. The town sits at a surprisingly low altitude for such a mighty river. The city is further the start of the world-renowned Danube cycle trail. We biked the trail for a few kilometres before slinking into our campsite at Pfohren. The camp was packed with cyclists, and we met a couple (Tamar and Keith from the UK) cycling on a tandem recumbent bicycle. I was given a ride, which was quite an unusual experience.

 

14 June - Donaueschingen – Sigmaringen – 86 km

From Donaueschingen to Sigmaringen was a brilliant cycle via the Danube cycleway. Here we experienced our first sunshine of the trip. The path was immensely popular and we came across heaps of families with small kids enjoying the outdoors.

Our route passed castles, forests and villages where we stopped numerous times to have coffee. This all added to a social ride with no rush to get to the camp.

Miles was an excellent chef and he again cooked a tasty meal. A drizzle set in, which sent us scampering to our tents early.

 

15 June - Sigmaringen – Ulm – 115 km

The Danube cycleway is a bicycle trail that follows the Danube River. The river runs from its source at Donaueschingen for 2850 kilometres to where it flows into the Black Sea in Romania. The cycleway is a dedicated path for nearly the entire distance. Still, the terrain was far more varied than I’d foreseen. The trail crossed the Danube several times and followed the river in an easterly direction. What an absolute pleasure to amble along this path.

Arrival in Ulm was in good time, and after stopping numerous times for coffee and pastries. By evening, all walked into town searching for an authentic German restaurant. We’d no problem finding one and pigged out on Wiener schnitzel, sauerkraut and Swabian noodles, all washed down with a few pints of German beer.

 

16 June - Ulm

A day of rest was spent in bustling Ulm, giving time to do the regular rest day chores, i.e., laundry, internet, etc. Ulm is home to the church with the tallest steeple globally and Albert Einstein’s birthplace. There were, therefore, plenty of sights and attractions to uncover in this very fascinating city.

 

17 June - Ulm – Eggelstetten – 104 km

To a cyclist, there is nothing quite like a breakfast buffet! Before leaving, we filled our stomachs from an enormous spread of fruit, cereal, bread and cheese before ambling further east.

We must have impressed the owner of a coffee shop with our “Paris – Istanbul” bike signs, as he offered us freshly baked pretzels, which came out of the oven piping hot. In addition, he generously provided us with a sample of homemade sausage before we set out through the forest.

Although the path was clearly signposted, we still managed to pick the wrong route. Not that it made any difference - all routes were scenic and eventually spat one out in the next town.

 

18 June - Eggelstetten - Kipfenberg – 100 km

Due to our early nights, people generally got going early. It felt like I was the only slow one as I didn’t think there was any rush going anywhere.

In general, the group set off together but soon split up as each pedalled at their own pace, taking photos, drinking coffee or sampling the cuisine. Our days took on a comfortable rhythm, except for the weather, as it drizzled most days.

The town of Eichstatt looked worth exploring, but I kept going as by then, I’d lost the rest of the group and didn’t feel like investigating in the rain. Nevertheless, biking was enjoyable, and I reached camp early.

Soon the others arrived, and tents were pitched in a constant drizzle. Fortunately, the camp showers were piping hot and the rain abated later that evening. The cold weather seemed to encourage the consumption of an unprecedented amount of red wine and chocolate. The red wine fuelled in-depth discussions of the world’s energy crisis. As with virtually all good talks, we all crawled in content, knowing we’d solved the world’s problems.

 

19 June - Kipfenberg – Regensburg – 100 km

In a constant drizzle, we continued, which made an excellent excuse to stop for coffee and pretzels. Despite the weather, it remained a pleasure to meander past small settlements, forests and farmlands. We watched barges manoeuvring through sluices while slowly making their way upstream.

Somehow, I missed the lunch spot but noticed a cycle path and continued downstream until famous Regensburg. By evening, all went to a German restaurant for more schnitzel, sauerkraut and Swabian noodles.

 

20 June – Regensburg

Regensburg was a fascinating town with a medieval centre, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old town was crammed with old houses, churches and narrow cobblestone lanes. Apparently, it’s the only intact historic city in Germany. Moreover, the stone bridge over the Danube River was built between 1135 and 1146, making it pretty unique.

 

21 June - Rederenburg – Straubing – 52 km

A short but delightful day of riding took us from Rederenburg to Straubing. Soon after leaving, we came upon a very Greek-looking building, the history of which still eludes me. However, with the short distance, we stopped more than usual to investigate or sample the food.

Chris was the lone racer in the group and customarily finished the day’s ride hours ahead of anyone. Francois (from Canada), Michelle (New Zealand) and Jacky (Australia) were all strong cyclists and usually set a good pace. Barry, Marion and Alice were all experienced cyclists and were typically right on the heels of the fast cyclists. The rest of us trailed far behind.

 

22 June - Straubing - Passau – 100 km

Our last day in Germany arrived and, at last, the sun made an appearance. We had a fantastic day, except for John (from Canada) who had an accident and had to be taken to hospital to have his leg seen to. Fortunately, Barry and Marion were there when the accident happened and could attend to his injuries until staff could get there by van and transport him to hospital. I couldn’t think of a better couple to have with you when something like that happened, as they were caring and compassionate people.

We stopped to have coffee and later for lunch, as due to the accident, there was no lunch truck. Eventually, we rode on to famed Passau, where the campground was picture pretty and fitted with good showers. Supper was excellent, but the rain made short work of this social gathering. A few bottles of red wine helped ward off the cold.

 

42 – Austria – Slovakia – Hungary

605 Km – 8 Days

 

23 June - Passau, Germany – Linz, Austria – 100 km

Edna, Sterling, John, Evlyn and Alf opted for a boat ride on the Danube from Passau to Linz, a scenic part of the river. I felt sorry for John as he dearly wanted to cycle, but cycling wasn’t a good idea with his leg stitched up. John was a university professor from Canada and a wise and kind man, and the last person in the world one wants things like this to happen to.

The rest of us saddled up and followed the river to the Austrian border. Soon, a small and faded sign indicated the border between Germany and Austria.

David and I joined forces and later met up with the others as we stopped to have our usual coffee break. We spotted the riverboat carrying our friends six kilometres before Linz, and we waved frantically to attract their attention. We then raced the boat to its mooring point, where we waited for them to disembark. Afterwards, we all biked the last few kilometres to camp together. Regrettably, no sooner were our tents up than the dreaded rain returned.

It turned out a public holiday in Austria, and all shops closed. Shopping for ingredients to cook was thus virtually impossible. As a result, we ate at a nearby restaurant.

 

24 June - Linz – Emmersdorf – 110 km

From Linz, we followed the river east but turned off to visit the Mauthausen concentration camp. What a depressing sight. Soon afterwards, we made the day’s first coffee stop, after which I set off downstream, powered by a strong tailwind.

We were undoubtedly in the land of Heidi and the Sound of Music. The scenery was sublime, making a pleasant day of biking as the rain held off and the sun peeped through the clouds every now and again.

Sadly, this was Evlyn and Alf’s final day of riding as they were to fly home in the morning. Bicycles were taken apart and boxed, and tents rolled up and stuffed into the bike box. They booked into a B&B and it was sad to see them go as they were very likeable people.

At camp, John’s leg was cleaned and redressed. Fortunately, Sterling was a medical doctor and kept a close watch.

 

25 June - Emmersdorf – Vienna – 120 km

The route to Vienna was particularly scenic past vineyards, cherry trees, apricot plantations and small settlements. These tiny communities were steeped in history and came with cobblestone streets, quaint houses and old churches complete with human remains. There seemed a castle on each hilltop, mostly still in good nick.

Losing the group was no disaster and I enjoyed a day alone. Although it’s nearly impossible to get lost in this part of the world, a few riders lost the official path and landed themselves on muddy tracks. However, we eventually made our way to the pre-arranged hotel in Vienna and looked forward to two days at leisure.

 

26 - 28 June - Vienna

Vienna or Wien, the capital of Austria, is the largest city in the country and was swarming with tourists. We couldn’t have picked a better time to arrive in Vienna. The Danube Island Festival was taking place, and the island was packed with bandstands, food stalls and entertainment.

The city had numerous sights and attractions. I roamed the crowded streets, eyeing the colossal Ferris wheel but couldn’t find anyone to join me. Instead, I enjoyed innumerable cups of their famous coffee. Vienna is home to great music and a person doesn’t have to go far to find piano makers and opera houses.

The old and the new seemed to blend effortlessly in Vienna. Hectic city traffic, old-fashioned trams and horse-drawn carts seemed to co-exist happily. For that matter, so did Armani, Strauss and Mozart. Coffee shops and Bratwurst stalls abounded. One could find opera tickets and tickets to Mozart concerts on almost every street corner.

Vienna has enough art nouveau buildings to satisfy anyone; Otto Wagner must have been an immensely busy man. All in all, a fantastic city with bicycle lanes, substantial parks, pavement cafes, music houses, opera theatres, and coffee shops - all situated on the banks of the famous Danube River. It’s no wonder Vienna is such a touristy place.

 

28 June - Vienna, Austria – Bratislava, Slovakia – 65 km

Two days were spent in Vienna to sightsee and welcome the new arrivals. Included in this group were two South Africans (Mieke and PC), Paul from the USA (whom I’d met previously on Tour d’Afrique), Mark from Australia and Rudolf from Canada. Departing Vienna was in a group to the city’s outskirts. Then, a relaxed amble to the Austrian/Slovakian border.

John’s legs improved, and he must have been relieved to return to cycling. The two of us set a relaxed pace and, from time to time, pedalled with Mieke and PC. Following a quick coffee break, we arrived at the Austrian/Slovakia border. Border crossings in Europe were relatively unremarkable. However, one needed to be pretty alert to spot these tiny signs high up on poles. Four kilometres later, we found ourselves in Bratislava, where accommodation was in a boathouse. All were somewhat surprised at our unusual accommodation. Not merely was it unique, but also extremely comfortable with large and spacious rooms.

Bratislava was beautiful, friendly and culturally rich. As we marvelled at our new environment, I strolled the city streets with Marion and Barry. A short bike ride brought us to a new culture, language and architecture. A walk up a hill took us to a castle with enough nooks and crannies to keep us occupied a few hours. The old town had a great deal to offer, and the remainder of the day was spent exploring. Dinner was on the boat and the food was excellent. Later a few of us walked into town, where we had a glass of red wine compliments of PC.

 

29 June - Bratislava, Slovakia – Komarom, Hungary – 116 km

The time came to leave our boathouse, and we rode together out of Bratislava. Soon the group split up, with Chris, Francois, Michelle, and Jacky taking the lead. Barry, Alice, John and Marion were in close pursuit, followed by Stirling, David and Edna. The rest of us ambled on in our own sweet time. Cycling mainly was with my fellow countrymen, Mieke and PC, who enjoyed sampling the local brew.

At Komarom, we encountered one more border crossing, this time even more inconspicuous. Then, finally, we crossed from Slovakia into Hungary, where I ended my trip with the Orient Express as I planned to leave the group in Budapest.

With that, it was Mieke’s birthday. We didn’t merely have cake but also consumed a substantial amount of red wine. Francois tried his best to teach us a few words in French but eventually gave up.

 

30 June - Komarom – Budapest – 94 km

My final day of cycling with the group arrived, and I enjoyed my last luxuries. The day consisted of a good road through beautiful scenery and over a few hills to the lunch truck. After lunch, all biked together into the city of Budapest.

That evening, the majority of us went out to enjoy a few beers and good Hungarian food. I’d made such good friends and felt pretty sad to see them carry on without me, but I’d already cycled that stretch and wanted to explore a different part of Europe.

From Budapest, the plan was thus to return to France by train and then head west in Lisbon’s direction. Gergo was kind enough to find the train info; all that remained was to buy the ticket and bike to the station.

 

1 – 3 July - Budapest

Two days were spent sightseeing in Budapest as the city came with remarkable architectural heritage. There was much to see and do in this beautiful city. By evening, we looked for restaurants to indulge in the local cuisine.

In Budapest, one can frequent the Romkocsma (literally ruin pubs). These are pubs in the courtyards and gardens of abandoned houses or commercial buildings. You don’t see anything from the outside apart from people drifting about with their plastic beer glasses. Sometimes a beefy guard made sure people didn’t get too noisy, as these places were usually in residential areas. Once inside, the courtyard offered live music, alternative exhibits, and films, and stayed open until at least 4 a.m. As Gergo’s band played at one of these pubs, we followed him for a few beers.

What a lovely group of people they were. On departing, PC and Mieke presented me with a farewell goody bag. The goodie bag was exceptionally well thought through. It contained all the essentials: cup-a-soup, instant noodles, an energy drink, sweets and, of course, a small bottle of wine. xxx

On the morning of 3 July, I finally waved goodbye to my friends as they sped off to the Romanian border. I returned to my room to work on my blog updates. My train ticket was booked for the 5^th and I’d plenty of time to kill until heading back to Paris.

 

4 July - Budapest

After collecting my laundry, I sauntered around the city centre with PC (who had to return to Budapest to collect his new passport). Then, back to my room to start repacking my panniers.