Wednesday, 20 June 2012

CYCLE TOURING COSTA RICA

 


COSTA RICA
745 Kilometres – 22 Days
31 May – 20 June 2012




31 May - Paso Canoas – Palmar - 95 kilometres

Our first day of biking in Costa Rica provided exceptional vistas through thick and dense forests, making it an utterly enjoyable ride. Although scorching and humid, the landscape was scenic and less hilly than envisaged. So wet, hot and humid was it, conditions allowed farmers to grow rice.

The tiny river town of Palmar Sur was home to mysterious granite stone spheres dating back thousands of years to Costa Rica’s pre-Columbian period. While larger stones weighed as much as 13,000 kg, others were as small as bowling balls. The mysteriousness of these stones is mainly due to their perfectly spherical shape. Yet, to this day, I’m clueless about their use.

 

1-4 June - Palmar – Uvita - 45 kilometres

The coastal route between Palmar and Uvita didn’t run flush next to the coast, but it remained a gorgeous ride sporting plenty of ceviche traders and spectacular vistas.

Uvita’s unusual hostel had dormitories consisting of mosquito-netted beds in tree houses in gigantic mango trees. A pleasant kitchen area was where nearly everyone gathered to devour the many mangoes that fell to the ground. Our tents were pitched under cover, which prevented mangoes from falling on the tents. Uvita, situated within the Marino Ballena National Park, sported a flat, sandy beach stretching miles along the coast, which is blessed by crystal blue waters. So pleasant was it; three full days were spent in Uvita. A slack rope in the garden provided hours of fun, but none quite mastered it.

 

5 June - Uvita – Dominical - 23 kilometres

Costa Rica was unique in that it didn’t have a military. It must be one of only a handful of countries that doesn’t have an army (very clever, if you ask me). I hope its lack of military was a sign of a peaceful nation.

Costa Ricans are known as “Ticos”, and the Costa Rican currency is colón (plural colones) named after Cristóbal Colón or Christopher Columbus.

The ride to laid-back Dominical, a surfing community, was short and the remainder of the day was thus spent walking along the pretty, rocky beach, surrounded by dense forests.

 

6 June - Dominical – Quepos - 47 kilometres

Our path north continued past the dreaded oil palm plantations. Although a common cooking ingredient in parts of Africa, Southeast Asia and Brazil, it, by now, appeared planted almost wherever it would grow. Worldwide demand has increased tremendously; today, nearly all processed foods contain palm oil.

The removal of forests to make space for oil palm plantations has resulted in massive losses of natural forests, and one can understand the concern of environmental activists. However, I was not too fond of these plantations for an entirely different reason, as they always seemed planted in extremely hilly areas. The ride to Quepos, a small harbour town, was proof of this.

 

7 June - Quepos – Jaco - 66 kilometres

The ride to Jaco was scenic on a flat road alongside the coast. Jaco had a dilapidated campsite, close to its famous and beautiful beach. The coast was a real surfer’s paradise as the waves were good and the water warm. Supper was from a food stand, known as soda stands, the most economical eateries in Costa Rica. One could choose from various dishes; amongst them were always the ever-present rice and beans.

The weather was sweltering, and it was virtually impossible to be in a tent, but rain forced us into our private saunas. While lying there, sweat dripping, I could think of many more comfortable places to spend a night. Eventually, I crawled out in search of a cooling breeze, but there were none and the mosquitos were so fierce I had no option but to return to the tent. I couldn’t wait until morning to pack up and get out of there.

 

8 June - Jaco – Puntarenas - 76 kilometres

After studying the map, our assumption that it would be an easy ride along the coast was, clearly, incorrect. Although picturesque, the day’s ride had its fair share of hills. The heat was intense, and I swear I didn’t know my body contained that much fluid. Sweat poured out of my clothes to such an extent that one could easily have assumed I had a swim.

Eventually, the hilly route spat us out at Puntarenas, a strange town on a narrow, flat peninsula. Our nightly accommodation was in a basic wooden shack at the water’s edge. Across from our rickety abode was a pier where fancy passenger liners docked. Some people, clearly, travelled in more style than us.

 

9 June - Puntarenas – Tambor - 29 kilometres

By morning, we made our way to the small harbour to catch the ferry across the Golf de Nicoya to Paquera, situated on Peninsula de Nicoya. The peninsula is known for its gorgeous beaches and tropical rainforest. Therefore, I thought it worth investigating as it’s blessed with abundant fauna and exotic flora.

A quick ferry ride brought us to Paquera, and it immediately became apparent that riding wouldn’t be easy. The weather was humid and hot, and the narrow winding path led straight up a mountain. It wasn’t that the climb was high, but that the gradient was impossibly steep. Nevertheless, we wrestled our bikes up almost vertical inclines and slinked into Tambor soaked in perspiration. Despite the difficulty in reaching it, Tambor had a magnificent location along a horseshoe-shaped bay, and it dawned upon me that Costa Rica was indeed one of the world’s most scenic countries.

 

10-13 June - Tambor – Montezuma - 21 kilometres

The following morning, the route remained narrow and near-vertical in places. Barely twelve kilometres down the drag, a sign pointed to Montezuma Beach. Being curious about what was at the end of this potholed dirt track, we turned off to investigate. Seven kilometres further, the tiny beach village of Montezuma appeared. Hidden amongst dense forests, Montezuma was a true paradise and home to surfers and hippies alike. So laid-back was it that the place became known as Montefumar (‘fumar’ is Spanish for smoke). It was an excellent place to follow suit and swing in a hammock while puffing away for a few days.

We read books, swam in the ocean, and eventually trundled to a nearby waterfall. Doing little made the days fly by, and soon it came time to continue our journey.

 

14 June - Montezuma – Puerto Coyote - 40 kilometres

In the morning, I gasped up the sharp hill to the “main road”. So extreme was it that I had to walk the bike. Unfortunately, our joy getting to a paved section was short-lived as the path soon turned into a dirt road which later deteriorated into a muddy track.

Mercifully, the rivers we encountered weren’t deep and we could walk the bikes across. Thank goodness, my panniers were waterproof. The path became steep, muddy and rutted to such an extent that we had to help each other push the bikes up the near-vertical hills, as so slippery was the mud that we kept sliding down. LOL. We never saw a soul, and the single person we encountered was a chap asking for directions.

After what felt like hours, an idyllic beach emerged, and was made even more idyllic after a hard day’s riding along a muddy track. The tents were set up at the beach amongst palm trees, where one could wash the day’s mud away and watch the sunset over the ocean.

 

15 June - Puerto Coyote – Playa Carrillo - 46 kilometres

Our euphoria in reaching Puerto Coyote didn’t last long as the track continued up more hills, which worsened as the day progressed. The bikes again needed hiking up muddy and rutted paths (two to a bike) and I couldn’t believe another day was spent slip-sliding along these muddy trails. So sharp was the gradient we kept sliding down while wrestling our bikes up the slippery path. I couldn’t help but laugh at the sight we must have made, as there wasn’t a great deal one could do; we were in this mess and had to push on.

It felt like we were getting nowhere, and the kilometres increased instead of decreased. I was convinced we were on the wrong road. At a tiny settlement, we asked for directions and, in true Costa Rican style, were told to return to where the sign indicated right and turn left. Fortunately, it wasn’t far, as again it required pushing the bikes across a river and, low and behold, would there not be a paved road on the opposite side.

So great was our happiness, we booked in at the first opportunity. If ever one needed to “get away from it all”, Playa Carrillo would be your best bet.

 

16 June - Carrillo – Ostional - 51 kilometres

A paved road continued to the touristy beach of Samara. Again, a sign indicated to turn left but this time we first checked with villagers and, as anticipated, were told to go right.

Not long after departing Samara, the paved section again vanished and turned into a dirt track. Still, the day turned out considerably more effortless and, although rough, it had none of the severe hills of the previous day.

Our route led past numerous beaches, one more idyllic than the other, and tiny Ostional seemed an excellent place to call it a day. Unfortunately, it rained throughout the night, making me fear it would again turn our way into a mud bath.

 

17-18 June - Ostional – Playa Tamarindo - 67 kilometres

Upon waking, Ernest discovered nearly all his equipment left on the bike stolen: helmet, gloves, sleeping bag, etc. Strangely not the essential items. No one needs a sleeping bag in the tropics, and Ernest’s sleeping mat was punctured and thus useless. Amazingly, my bike with sleeping bag and tent was in front, weird. I surmised it wasn’t stolen but sold. Hahaha.

Eventually, we got going and found the road more level, and although not pan-flat, it made for comfortable cycling. Occasionally, the route followed the coast past magnificent surfing beaches, and at times it headed inland over hills through thick and dense natural vegetation.

Touristy Playa Tamarindo came as a pleasant surprise. I understood the surf movie, Endless Summer 2 was filmed in the area which firmly put Tamarindo on the map. Unfortunately, development took off at an alarming rate, to such an extent Tamarindo lost its Blue Flag status.

The sea turtles were long gone, but at least development seemed to have slowed, partly due to the recession and partly due to more control over new developments. Still, it remained a beautiful place and offered a convenient tourist infrastructure.

I enjoyed staying in a hostel as they usually provided Wi-Fi, fast food, and other touristy treats.

 

19 June - Playa Tamarindo – Liberia - 79 kilometres

There was no hanging about at pretty Tamarinda and after saddling up our iron horses, we headed over the hills to Liberia. The route turned away from the coast and led slightly inland. Biking along a paved road was a pleasure and the day came without the usual sharp hills.

Therefore, Liberia was reached in good time, where a comfortable abode made for relaxing the rest of the day. A nearby restaurant provided a typical Costa Rican meal consisting of rice, beans, meat, and a small salad.

 

20 June - Liberia – La Cruz - 60 kilometres

Once along the Pan-American highway, the route proceeded north toward Nicaragua. We continued through Parque Nacional Guanacaste, which meant it came with its fair share of hills; fortunately, an abundance of trees gave protection from the relentless heat. Digs in La Cruz allowed crossing the border into Nicaragua the next day.

 

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