THAILAND (2) 2009
1,955 Kilometers - 21 Days
5
December – 26 December 2009
PHOTOS
FLIP-BOOK
30 THAILAND (2) 2009
1,955
Kilometres - 21 Days
5
December – 26 December 2009
5
December - Houie Xia, Laos – Thoeng, Thailand - 84 kilometres
Our
relatively quick visit to Laos ended when Ernest and I crossed the Mekong River
from the border town of Houie Xia in Laos to Chiang Khong, Thailand. The ferry
across the river was essentially a substantial barge, and we soon found
ourselves in the small border town of Chiang Khong.
The
free border visa allowed us a 15-day stay, which was too short to explore
Thailand and cycle to Malaysia. Therefore, we planned to return to Bangkok and
sort out the visa issue once we got there.
I
had forgotten how lush and green Thailand was, and how devoted the people were
to the royal family. Every school, hospital, government building, and hotel
prominently displayed a large photo of the king and queen. The weather was
perfect, and our route didn’t include any mountain passes, which made for
excellent cycling.
We
pedalled past numerous small communities and beautifully decorated Buddhist
temples and eventually reached the small settlement of Thoeng. On the outskirts
of town, we found bungalows that offered suitable overnight accommodations.
After a meal of instant noodles, I crawled into bed, overwhelmed by the
constant reports on how great Thailand was and how wonderful the king was. It
was the King’s birthday, which explained the coverage, but did it really need
to be on all 130 channels?
6
December - Thoeng – Phayao - 101 kilometres
December
is a wonderful time of year to cycle in Northern Thailand. The weather was
perfect—warm during the day with no rain and much more manageable humidity
compared to April and May. The pleasant conditions made camping comfortable.
The landscape remained lush and green, with dense forests covering the
mountainsides and hills.
Our
route took us past numerous temples and stupas, adorned with thousands of Thai,
Buddhist, and royal flags decorating every conceivable building. Since about
95% of the population is Buddhist, the yellow Buddhist flag was visible almost
everywhere.
Markets
lined the road, offering a wide variety of goods. I couldn’t resist buying a
hammock, as being in Thailand without one feels incomplete.
Around
midday, a street vendor served us delicious bowls of noodle soup, providing
enough energy to continue until it was time to set up camp. With Buddhist
monasteries and temples all around, there was no shortage of camping spots. The
temple grounds were generally spacious, and we always sought permission before
setting up our tents. Ernest prepared a delightful dish of noodles and
vegetables cooked in coconut cream and chillies.
7
December - Phayao - Rong Kwang - 122 kilometres
By
the time we were ready to go, the sun was already high in the sky. After
bidding farewell to the monks, the journey to Rong Kwang turned into another
picturesque ride. Each high point along the way was adorned with a Buddhist
temple; some were just shrines, while others included statues and all the
necessary decorations and offerings. It's customary for vehicles to honk as
they pass these sites, which makes these places unsuitable for camping.
Our
ride ended after cycling 122 kilometres when we spotted a petrol station with a
grassy area at the back. We soon realised that this was a common practice, as
more than one vehicle had pulled in to stay overnight. For dinner, we again had
instant noodles, this time enhanced with fresh vegetables to add flavour and
make the meal more substantial.
8
December - Rong Kwang - Uttaradit - 101 kilometres
During
the dry season in Northern Thailand, nearly all farmers were busy harvesting
rice, primarily by hand, which is an extremely labour-intensive job. It also
seemed that wood was still widely used, although it was becoming too expensive
for most of the population. Nevertheless, beautiful wooden houses, temples, and
intricate wooden furniture could still be found in various places. I came
across workshops that offered exquisite wood carvings, and I even spotted a
massive table made from a solid piece of wood.
The
hilly route we travelled was a breeze compared to the mountainous terrain of
China, and we navigated the hills without breaking a sweat. There was always
plenty of food available at the scenic spots, and Ernest couldn't resist trying
meaty snacks.
In
Uttaradit, the market offered fresh green leaves and a few vegetables. Just
past the town, another petrol station offered a shop, restrooms, and a grassy
area. Though I could have used a proper shower, a quick wipe with a damp cloth
had to suffice.
Supper
was noodles instead of rice, which I had bought pre-cooked at the market,
accompanied by vegetables in coconut cream.
9-10
December - Uttaradit - Phitsanulok - 107 kilometres
On
this day, all the wooden furniture and other types of stalls were replaced by
fruit vendors, including watermelon, which we found irresistible. We devoured
an entire watermelon at a shady bus shelter, enjoying its deliciousness as the
weather became warmer the further south we ventured.
I
dreamed of a shower the entire day, and Phitsanulok didn’t disappoint. The
"London Hotel" provided inexpensive rooms with shared bathrooms.
Although no hot water was available, one could hardly call tap water in
Thailand cold. I didn’t care, as I desperately needed a shower, especially
after cycling for four days in the same outfit. The cold weather days were long
gone, and the rooms only had fans with no blankets—electric blankets and thick
duvets felt like a distant memory. It’s incredible how quickly things change.
After
a refreshing scrubbing, I ventured out to the plentiful food carts. The night
market featured a maze of covered stalls offering delicious-looking dishes. I
bought various items, but upon closer inspection, most contained meat, so I
passed them on to Ernest, who hadn’t yet been to the market.
Once
my laundry was done, I checked the internet and saw that I had received a
reasonable offer for my house in Cape Town. This was enticing, as it would
allow me to continue cycling for a few more years.
I
stayed in Phitsanulok the following day to print, scan, fax, and sign
documents.
11
December - Phitsanulok – Nakhon Sawan - 146 kilometres
Cycling
the northern regions of Thailand was utterly different from only a few weeks earlier
when I struggled up steep mountain passes and nearly froze my butt off in China’s
high mountains. By now, the weather was hot and humid and the road good and pancake
flat. A reasonable distance was made past rice paddies, temples and vendors
selling cotton candy (roti saimai). Roti saimai (pronounced say may) is a
Thai-style candy floss or cotton candy wrapped in a sweet roti. The thin silk
strands are spun sugar and usually come in a rainbow of colours. The crepe is extremely
thin, and I understand the colour green is from Pandan leaves, widely used in
Southeast Asia for flavouring.
Each
country presents unique challenges, and I suffered from a heat rash and was
covered from head to toe in mosquito bites. Towards the end of the day, we once
again pitched our tents upon a lawn next to a petrol station. The mozzies came
out and had a royal time feasting on us around dusk while washing pots. The
clanging seemed like their dinner bell.
12
December - Nakhon Sawan - Chaiyo - 125 kilometres
We
flew along a flat route until the sun began to approach the horizon. The
roadside was dotted with various markets, and I was particularly fond of the
spirit houses. Some were relatively simple, while others resembled elaborate
dollhouses. These houses are typically displayed on poles, much like
birdhouses, in a prominent spot in the garden. They serve as homes for spirits,
allowing them to live independently from the family while still being close
enough to offer protection.
One
hundred twenty-five kilometres later, we set up camp at a petrol station, but
at that time, there was no lawn, only a cement slab surrounded by scrap and
truck trailers. Not all camping places are equally scenic, but one must make do
with what is available when the sun begins to set. At least the station had a
shop, toilets, and drinking water. Oh, how I longed for a shower!
13
December - Chaiyo – Ayutthaya - 50 kilometres
What
a surprising day! Not only did I encounter grilled rats, but I also discovered
the town of Ayutthaya. Even though Ernest was uninterested in sightseeing, I
decided to explore Ayutthaya, as I was intrigued by its history. Once the
capital of Siam, Ayutthaya was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767 and is now a
UNESCO World Heritage site. Old ruins are scattered throughout the town. The
more I walked, the more ruins I found hidden around every corner and behind
every bush. I was amazed to discover a place I didn’t even know existed. I was
so captivated that I didn’t even bother with my usual housekeeping tasks.
14
December - Ayutthaya – Bangkok - 83 kilometres
Arriving
in Bangkok was exhilarating as we navigated through the vibrant chaos of the
city’s bustling streets. Despite the notorious traffic, I found it surprisingly
easy to locate the energetic tourist enclave of Banglumpu, where we secured a
budget guest house—an uncommon find in this sprawling metropolis.
Eagerly,
I set out to explore Bangkok, excited to immerse myself in a city brimming with
eccentric characters; it felt like I had found my tribe. The streets buzzed
with an eclectic mix of tattooed, pierced, and dreadlocked travellers, creating
a vivid tapestry of cultures and stories. The atmosphere crackled with energy,
filled with neon lights from bars and go-go clubs, while colourful ladyboys
added to the city’s unique allure.
Every
corner presented a feast for the senses, with street vendors hawking an array
of mouth-watering delicacies, from the aromatic scents of sizzling street food
to the visual allure of colourful trinkets, and street traders offering
everything from fake IDs to diving certifications.
I
wandered down the iconic Khao San Road, where the energy of the bustling
tourist trade enveloped me. We finally settled on the tiny plastic chairs that
dotted the sidewalks, indulging in a plate of Pad Thai, the rich flavours
perfectly complemented by a cold beer. It was the kind of experience that made
me feel truly alive in this vibrant city.
15-17
December – Bangkok
To
extend our visas, we had to take a river ferry, ride the sky train, and catch a
taxi, only to discover that the office had moved. After returning to the sky
train and taking a bus, we finally found the new location. It was immensely
disappointing to learn that we were only granted an additional 7-day stay at a
cost of 1,900 baht. Afterwards, we returned to our accommodation via bus, sky
train, and river ferry, arriving shortly after sunset—just in time for a beer.
18
December - Bangkok – Puktian Beach - 151 kilometres
With
only seven days to leave Thailand, there was no time to waste. Escaping the
bustling energy of Bangkok proved a surprisingly smooth endeavour. With a brisk
tailwind at our backs, we made excellent time. As we veered off towards the
Gulf Coast, a gentle headwind whispered around us, but it did little to dampen
our spirits. We arrived at the picturesque Puktian Beach earlier than expected,
and were greeted by the soft hum of the waves and the warm embrace of the sun.
19
December - Puktian Beach – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 146 kilometres
With
only a few days left to leave Thailand, Ernest and I raced south with the wind
at our backs, passing by swampy areas filled with alligators and fishing
communities. Unfortunately, Ernest got a flat tyre which he fixed surrounded by
the usual onlookers. Even though we were in a hurry, we had enough time to shop
for bike parts and visit a computer shop to look for a new charger for my
notebook. I was confident I would find one; it was just a matter of time.
We
reached Prachuap Khiri Khan in good time, leaving plenty of opportunities to
visit the market and shop. Afterwards, we headed to Ao Noi Beach to stay at the
same rickety bungalows as before. The bamboo constructions were so unstable
that one had to tread carefully as the entire structure rocked and swayed with
each movement. Still, it provided a place to lay our heads and take showers.
20
December - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan - 101 kilometres
A
short but delightful ride led us to one of my favourite hidden gems along the
stunning Gulf of Thailand. As we arrived, the enchanting view was matched only
by the welcoming charm of Lola Bungalows, our rustic retreat. Before settling
in, we ventured to the local market, where the vibrant colours of fresh produce
filled the air with tantalising aromas. Ernest carefully selected crisp
vegetables and succulent cuts of meat, while I stocked up on an assortment of
instant noodles and creamy coconut milk, essentials for our beachside meals.
As
the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with hues of orange and
pink, Ernest set to work in the modest kitchen. I found myself a cosy spot,
swaying gently in the evening breeze, the rhythmic lapping of the waves
accompanying the symphony of chirping insects. The atmosphere was tranquil,
filled with the sweet scent of the sea and the promise of a delicious meal.
21
December - Bang Saphan – Chumphon - 118 kilometres
Waking
up to the sound of the ocean is always a fantastic way to start the day.
Fortunately, the day's ride wasn't very long, as I felt pretty tired.
The
route was slightly hillier, but the views remained inspiring, featuring palm
trees, beaches, small settlements, and colourful temples. We pedalled until we
reached Chumphon, where we found the Farang Bar.
I
looked in vain for a computer shop, as my notebook had broken down. It seemed I
would have to wait until I reached Kuala Lumpur for a solution. I had grown so
accustomed to it that I felt pretty lost without it.
22
December - Chumphon – Chayo – 142 kilometres
With
Ernest always dragging his heels, we got a late start. At least the wind was
primarily at our backs, and the road was flat and in good condition. There
wasn’t much time to stop or explore interesting sites as we hurried toward the
border. It looked like rain throughout the day, but while some areas were wet,
we stayed dry. The threatening clouds at least provided us with cover from the
sun. Two French cyclists in a similar situation were much smarter than us; they
took a bus from Bangkok to Chumphon. They must have thought we were pretty mad
for racing like that.
Upon
reaching our destination, my backside and hands were sore, but I was relieved
to be off the bike. That night’s accommodation was pricey, but I needed a
shower and a bed. The woman running the place was friendly and offered us
vegetables to add to our noodles.
23
December - Chaya – Chawang - 146 kilometres
What
a demanding day of biking it turned out to be. From the start, fatigue tugged
at my muscles, but we had no choice but to persevere. Thankfully, the wind blew
gently at our backs, and the slight cloud cover shielded us from the sun's
intensity. The landscape unfolded like a breathtaking tapestry: vibrant hues of
emerald green blanketed the hills, while dense forests stood proudly. Still, we
pedalled on, determined to reach the border before our visas expired. In the
process, we covered 140 kilometres. At last, we reached a petrol station that
offered refuge, with its undercover area, inviting showers and clean toilets, a
much-needed sanctuary after a long day on the road.
24
December – Wild camp – Phatthalung - 125 kilometres
As
one ventured further south, the landscape transformed into a vibrant tapestry
of tropical beauty. The air grew thick with humidity, and an ever-present haze
of clouds cast a gentle shadow over the lush surroundings. Verdant forests
flourished, their canopies teeming with life, while swarms of mosquitoes buzzed
in the moist air, a reminder of nature's relentless energy.
The
journey to Phatthalung was pleasingly brief, a blessing for my weary legs.
Ernest, typically the one to follow, took the lead this time—an unusual choice,
perhaps spurred by the slight headwind that pushed against us. I couldn't help
but think he considered my pace too leisurely for his liking.
Upon
arrival, the promise of cosy accommodation was irresistible. I was in dire need
of a shower to cleanse the dust and sweat of the day, eager to rid my clothes
of the lingering odour of my cycling gear. As evening fell, I found myself once
again resorting to instant noodles for supper—comforting in their familiarity
but increasingly monotonous, leaving me yearning for something more flavourful
and exciting.
25
December - Phatthalung – Hat Yai - 107 kilometres
Before
embarking on our penultimate ride to the border, our breakfast was a simple yet
hearty affair of bread paired with slices of cheese—albeit the processed kind
that barely resembled its artisanal counterpart. Even so, it provided a brief
yet welcome change to our routine. Once finished, we mounted our iron steeds,
heads down, and began the rhythmic dance of pedalling with determination.
Hat
Yai was a bustling haven, overflowing with a rich tapestry of accommodation
options and an enticing array of culinary delights. I felt a wave of
contentment wash over me as I settled into a cosy bed and relished the prospect
of diverse flavours to indulge in. The weariness of the journey so far settled
in my bones, but I beamed at the thought that tomorrow would mark our final
ride to the border—an exhilarating conclusion to this chapter of our adventure.
26
December - Hat Yai, Thailand – Malaysia border – Kuala Perlis, Malaysia – 110 kilometres
Immediately
after crossing the Thailand-Malaysia border, the differences were striking;
mosques replaced Buddhist monasteries. While Malaysia is a multicultural and
multi-religious country, Islam is the official religion. As a result, most
women were conservatively dressed or wore headscarves.
Ernest
and I headed straight to the coast, to the small village of Kuala Perlis in the
far northwestern corner of Malaysia. The Kuala Perlis jetty served as the main
connection point to Langkawi Island and could be reached via a scenic ride with
majestic limestone hills in the background.
One
fascinating feature of Kuala Perlis is the "Floating Mosque." This
mosque, built next to the jetty, extends over the water, creating the illusion
of floating at high tide. What makes the mosque unique is that its walls are
adorned with corals and pebbles, making it a tranquil spot to watch the sunset
over the Strait of Malacca.
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