THAILAND (2) 2009
1955 Kilometers - 21 Days
5
December – 26 December 2009
5 December - Houie Xia, Laos – Thoeng, Thailand - 84 kilometres
What
was a somewhat quick visit to Laos came to an end when Ernest and I crossed the
Mekong River from the border town of Houie Xia in Laos to Chiang Khong,
Thailand. A car ferry, or rather a substantial barge, operated across the river
and we soon found ourselves in Chiang Khong, Thailand.
The
visa received at the border was free of charge but only allowed a 15-day stay,
way too short to visit Thailand and by far too little time to enable us to cycle
to Malaysia. The plan was, therefore, to return to Bangkok and sort out the
problem once there.
I’d
forgotten how lush and green Thailand was and how obsessed they were with the
Royal family. Each school, hospital, government building and hotel had a massive
photo of the king and queen outside the building. The weather was perfect and the
route without any mountain passes, all of which made great cycling.
We
pedalled past numerous small communities and elaborately decorated Buddhist
temples until reaching the small settlement of Thoeng. Along the outskirts of
town were bungalows, which made suitable overnight accommodation. Following a
meal of instant noodles, I crawled in as I couldn’t listen to any more reports
on how great Thailand was and how wonderful the king was. Of course, it has to
be mentioned it was the King’s birthday but on all 130 channels?
6
December - Thoeng – Phayao - 101 kilometres
What
a great time of the year December was to cycle Northern Thailand. The weather was
perfect, quite warm during the day, with no rain, and much more bearable
humidity than in April and May. The agreeable weather further made comfortable
camping. Still, the landscape remained lush and green with dense forest
covering the mountainsides and hills.
Our
path continued past numerous temples and stupas and thousands of Thai, Buddhist
and Royal flags decorated each conceivable building. With 95% of the population
being Buddhist the yellow Buddhist flag was seen almost everywhere.
Markets
dotted the road, and one could shop for practically anything. I bought a
hammock, as one can’t be in Thailand and not have a hammock.
Midday
a stall provided a bowl of noodle soup, giving enough energy to continue until
time to set up camp. Buddhist monasteries and temples abounded, and there was thus
no shortage of camping places. The temple grounds were generally extensive, and
we set up camp after seeking permission. Ernest prepared a noodle and vegetable
dish cooked in coconut cream and chillies.
7
December - Phayao - Rong Kwang - 122 kilometres
Once
packed and ready to roll the sun was already high in the sky. Following waving the
monks goodbye the way to Rong Kwang became another picturesque ride. Each high
point, was adorned with a Buddhist temple. Some were only shrines and others came
complete with a statue, and all the necessary decorations and paraphernalia. It’s
customary for vehicles to give a toot when passing these spots; consequently, these
places didn’t make good camping.
The
ride ended after cycling 122 kilometres and on spotting a petrol station with a
grassy patch at the rear. We subsequently found this a common thing to do, and more
than one vehicle pulled in to overnight. Supper, yet again, consisted of
instant noodles with added fresh vegetables to give it flavour and make it more
substantial - by far the cheapest meal.
8
December - Rong Kwang - Uttaradit - 101 kilometres
Being
the dry season in Northern Thailand nearly all farmers were busy harvesting
rice, primarily by hand. An extremely labour-intensive job.
It
further appeared wood was still used extensively, though it’s becoming too
expensive for the majority of the population. Still, beautiful wooden houses,
temples, and elaborate wooden furniture could still be seen in places. The
roadside sold exquisite wood carvings and in the process I spotted a massive
wooden table made from a solid piece of wood.
The
hilly route was a breeze compared to China’s mountains, and we sailed up the
hills without breaking into a sweat. There’s always food aplenty at the scenic
spots, and Ernest couldn’t resist testing these meaty nibbles.
Once
in Uttaradit the market provided green leaves and a few vegetables. Shortly past
town was another petrol station with a shop, toilets and a grassy patch. I
could, nevertheless, do with a shower but a little wipe with a damp cloth had
to do the trick.
My
supper consisted of, not noodles, but rice (bought at the market already
cooked) accompanied by vegetables in coconut cream.
9-10
December - Uttaradit - Phitsanulok - 107 kilometres
On
this day all the wooden furniture and other types of markets were replaced with
fruit stalls, including watermelon, which we found irresistible. An entire
watermelon was devoured at a shady bus shelter, delicious in the warm weather
as the weather was becoming warmer the further south one ventured.
The
entire day was spent dreaming of a shower and Phitsanulok
didn’t disappoint. The “London Hotel” provided inexpensive rooms with shared bathrooms.
Although no hot water was available one can hardly call tap water in Thailand
cold. I couldn’t care less as I desperately needed a shower, especially
following four cycling days in the same outfit. Our cold weather days were long
gone and rooms came with fans and no blankets; the days of electric blankets
and thick duvets were gone. Amazing how quickly things change.
Following
a good scrubbing I set out to the food carts, of which there were plenty. The night-time
market came with a warren of covered stalls all offering delicious-looking
dishes. I bought heaps but upon closer inspection, most contained meat, and I
passed it to Ernest who hadn’t been to the market.
Once
the laundry was done, I checked the internet to find a reasonable offer was
received for my Cape Town house. All tempting, as it would keep me (and Ernest)
cycling a good few years longer.
I
stayed in Pitsanulok the following day to print, scan, fax and sign documents.
11
December - Phitsanulok – Nakhon Sawan - 146 kilometres
Cycling
the northern regions of Thailand was utterly different from only a few weeks earlier
when I struggled up steep mountain passes and nearly froze my butt off in China’s
high mountains. By now, the weather was hot and humid and the road good and pancake
flat. Good distance was made past rice paddies, temples and vendors selling cotton
candy (roti saimai). Roti saimai (pronounced say may) is a Thai-style candy
floss or cotton candy wrapped in a sweet roti. The thin silk strands are spun
sugar and usually come in a rainbow of colours. The crepe is extremely thin,
and I understand the colour green is from Pandan leaves, widely used in
Southeast Asia for flavouring.
Each
weather condition and country come with its unique set of challenges, and I
suffered from a heat rash and was covered from head to toe in mosquito bites. Camp
was once again upon a lawn next to a petrol station. The mozzies came out and
had a royal time feasting on us which generally happened around dusk while washing
pots. The clanging seemed their dinner bell.
12
December - Nakhon Sawan - Chaiyo - 125 kilometres
We
flew along a pancake-flat route until the sun started heading towards the horizon.
The
roadside was littered with all kinds of markets and I loved the spirit houses.
Some were pretty humble, and others resembled fancy doll houses. These houses
are typically displayed (upon poles, almost like birdhouses) in a prominent
place in the garden for spirits to live independently from the family but close
enough to protect them.
One
hundred and twenty-five kilometres later our camp was once more at a petrol
station upon a cement slab between scrap and truck trailers. Of course, not all
campsites are equally scenic, but one must do with what’s available when the
sun starts setting. At least the station had a shop, toilets and drinking
water. Oh, what I wouldn’t give for a shower.
13
December - Chaiyo – Ayutthaya - 50 kilometres
What
a surprising day. Not only did I find grilled rats but also the town of
Ayutthaya. Even though Ernest was uninterested in sightseeing, I turned off to
Ayutthaya, to investigate this intriguing place. Once the capital of Siam, but
destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, Ayutthaya is today a UNESCO World Heritage
site. Old ruins are scattered throughout the town. The
more I walked the more ruins popped out from each corner and behind every bush.
And to think I didn’t even know this place existed. I was blown away, to such
an extent, I didn’t even do the usual housekeeping.
14
December - Ayutthaya – Bangkok - 83 kilometres
Arrival
in Bangkok was in good time, through hectic traffic and the general madness of a
large city. Still, it was easier than anticipated to find the touristy area of
Banglumpu and a budget and centrally located guest house, a rare thing in
Bangkok.
I
was excited to investigate Bangkok as I hadn’t seen that many weird people in a
long time and felt quite at home. The place was swarming with tattooed, pierced
and dreadlocked travellers. What a crazy place, bars and go-go girls, neon
lights and ladyboys. Food carts, curios and vendors selling fake IDs, diving
cards, student cards, driving licenses, and press cards all line the streets
and alleys. I meandered the famous and bustling Kho San road with its lively
touristy trade and sat on tiny plastic chairs eating Phat Thai, guzzling cheap
beer.
15-17
December – Bangkok
Extending
our visas required taking a river ferry, the sky train, and a taxi only to find
the office had moved. Back upon the sky train and following a bus ride the new office
was finally located. It was immensely disappointing to learn we were given a
mere seven days (at the cost of 1900 baht.). We thus returned to our abode by
bus, sky train and river ferry reaching our place shortly past sunset—time for
beer.
18
December - Bangkok – Puktian Beach - 151 kilometres
Getting
out of Bangkok heading Southeast wasn’t all difficult and aided by a tailwind good
time was made. Turning off to the Gulf Coast we’d a mild headwind, but still reached
Puktian Beach early.
19
December - Puktian Beach – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 146 kilometres
With
only a few days left to get out of Thailand, Ernest and I raced south with the
wind in our backs, past swampy areas (complete with alligators), and fishing communities.
Unfortunately, Ernest had a flat tyre which he fixed in the company of the
usual onlookers. Even though in a hurry, enough time remained to shop for bike
spares and pop into the computer shop to see if I could find a new charger for
my notebook. I was sure I would find one; it was only a matter of time.
Prachuap
Khiri Khan was reached in good time leaving plenty of time to visit the market
and do the usual shopping. Then off to Ao Noi Beach to the same ramshackle
bungalows we’d stayed previously. So rickety was it one had to take care walking
as the whole bamboo construction rocked and swayed as one moved about. Still, it
was a place to lay one’s head and shower.
20
December - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan - 101 kilometres
A
short ride brought us to one of my favourite beaches along the Gulf of
Thailand. Before bunking down at Lola Bungalows, shopping for foodstuff was done
at a market. Ernest bought vegs as well as meat for himself and I stocked up with
more instant noodles and Coconut cream. Ernest cooked supper while I sat in the
breeze listening to the sound of the waves. Fortunately, our stilted wooden
bungalow didn’t go up in flames.
21
December - Bang Saphan – Chumphon - 118 kilometres
Waking
to the sound of the ocean is always an excellent way to start a day.
Mercifully, the day’s ride wasn’t a long distance as I was feeling quite tired.
The
way was slightly hillier but the vistas remained inspiring with palm trees,
beaches, small settlements and colourful temples. So we peddled along until reaching
Chumphon which sported the Farang Bar.
I
looked in vain for a computer shop as my notebook packed up, but it appeared I’d
to wait until reaching Kuala Lampur. I became so used to the darn thing, I felt
pretty lost without it.
22
December - Chumphon – Chayo – 142 kilometres
With
Ernest always dragging his heels, it was late before getting underway. At least
the wind was mainly in our backs and the way flat and in good condition. Little
time was left to stop or investigate interesting sites as we rushed towards the
border. The entire day it looked like rain, but while wet in places we escaped getting
wet. The threatening clouds at least gave us cover from the sun. Two French
cyclists in the same predicament were much smarter than us and took a bus from
Bangkok to Chumphon. They must’ve thought us quite mad racing like that.
Upon
reaching our destination, my backside and hands were painful and I was happy
out of the saddle. That night’s accommodation was pricey, but I needed a shower
and a bed. The lady running the place was friendly and provided us with veggies
to chuck in with the noodles.
23
December - Chaya – Chawang - 146 kilometres
What
a hard day’s biking it turned out. I was already tired at the start but we’d to
push on. At least the wind was in our favour and we’d a slight cloud cover. The
views were unsurpassed, lush and green, with many rivers and dense forests. We pedalled
onwards regardless, and 140 kilometres later set up camp at a petrol station with
an undercover area, showers and toilets.
24
December - Roadside camp – Phatthalung - 125 kilometres
The
further South one moved the more tropical the landscape. More rainy, cloudy
weather, more mosquitoes and more dense forests. The ride to Phatthalung was a relatively
short one, which I was happy about. Ernest took the lead something he rarely
did as the slight headwind slowed the pace and I guessed he thought me too slow.
Roadside
accommodation lured me in as I desperately needed to shower and rinse cycling
gear. Supper was once again instant noodles, and I was fast becoming sick of
eating instant noodles.
25
December - Phatthalung – Hat Yai - 107 kilometres
Before
starting our penultimate ride to the border, breakfast consisted of bread and
cheese, albeit processed slices not even half resembling cheese. Still, it was
different. Then straight on our iron horses, heads down and pedal, pedal, pedal.
Hat
Yai offered heaps of accommodation with a large variety of food and I was happy
with both a bed and a change of cuisine. Feeling exhausted, I was delighted the
following day would be our last ride to the border.
26
December - Hat Yai, Thailand – Malaysia border – Kuala Perlis, Malaysia – 110 kilometres
Immediately
after crossing the Thailand-Malaysian border, the differences were clearly
visible and mosques replaced Buddhist monasteries. While Malaysia was a
multicultural and multi-confessional country, the official religion was Islam. The
majority of women, therefore, were conservatively dressed or wore headscarves.
Ernest
and I headed straight for the coast to the small village of Kuala Perlis in the
far northwestern corner of Malaysia. The Kuala Perlis jetty was the main
connecting point for Langkawi Island and was reached via a beautiful ride with
majestic limestone hills in the background.
A
fascinating thing in Kuala Perlis was the “Floating Mosque”. The mosque was
built next to the Kuala Perlis jetty and extended over the water. With the
result at high tide, it looked as if floating. The mosque was also unique in
that the walls were adorned with corals and pebbles, making it a peaceful place
to view the sunset over the Strait of Malacca.
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