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Saturday, 18 April 2009

023 CYCLE TOURING NEPAL

 




NEPAL
722 Kilometres – 24 Days
24 March – 16 April 2009

 

24 March – Gorakhpur, India – Bhairahawa (Siddharthanagar), Nepal - 104km

Following a breakfast of poori and curry vegetables, I embarked on my last leg in India. It was high time as well, seeing I had been in India for more than six months. The border crossing at Sunauli was ever so chaotic, but like everything else in India, the process functioned as organised chaos.

On the Nepali side I obtained a one-month visa at $40 (a three-month visa was $100, and I didn’t have enough US dollars). Four kilometres north was the small village of Bhairahawa, sporting accommodation at the Mt Everest Hotel. The room was a pleasant surprise as it was clean and had a warm shower instead of only a bucket.

A walk to the ATM provided Nepalese rupees and a new SIM card. Getting a SIM card was quite a rigmarole, and required being fingerprinted.

 

25 March - Bhairahawa – Lumbini - 22km

I struggled to get the phone to work and couldn’t send SMSs. Returning to the shop didn’t help either (language is always a problem in a new country).

As Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, was a short ride away, I made the diversion to see what the place entailed. One would think Buddha’s birthplace, an important pilgrimage site, would be overrun by tourists, but Lumbini came as a pleasant surprise. Instead, it was a peaceful pilgrimage heritage spot.

 

26 March - Lumbini – Butwal - 44km

A flat, hot and dusty road ran between Lumbini and Butwal. Butwal sits at a major junction and I stayed the night to decide which direction to go. A road ran directly north, but once I laid eyes upon what is known as the “hills”, I opted for the route via Chitwan National Park. However, this choice only delayed the inevitable, as eventually one would have to cross the hills to reach Kathmandu.

Still, my early stop was mainly due to needing to charge my many electrical devices, as Nepal’s power was even more erratic than in India. It appeared electricity was available approximately 16 hours a day. The times vary from day to day and town to town. The previous two nights, power was only available between midnight and six in the morning. Thus, I never got around to charging my devices.

 

27 March - Butwal – Narayangarh - 121km

The day came with the realisation that it had been two years since I left home, and I wondered how many had cycled from Cape Town to Nepal. The trip was far more fascinating than I ever imagined and no two days were ever alike.

I was ready to depart at around eight-thirty but wasn’t sure if one was allowed on the road taking the countrywide strike and curfew. Protesters were burning tires and chanting slogans while a heavy police presence prevailed. Eventually, at around 10h30, I was given the green light and had the way all to myself. As no vehicles were allowed due to the strike, only pedestrians and bicycles were out, making biking a pleasure. Almost thirty kilometres from Butwal, I had my first taste of the “hills”. The route climbed about fifteen kilometres, but where there’s an up there’s usually a down and I reached Narayangarh in good time.

The Royal Rest House, located next to the road, made overnighting convenient. Although not very royal, the rest house had a generator and my room had a window on the outside. When I placed my food order, it contained two complete meals. I figured it must have been assumed that there was another person in the room since it's unusual to find a woman travelling solo in India and Nepal.

 

28 March - Narayangarh – Sauraha - 35km

A short ride led to Royal Chitwan National Park. Even though the route followed the main highway, road signs were non-existent. To such an extent, I cycled past the turnoff twice.

Sauraha, the village outside the park, had loads of accommodation. Nearly all cottages are set in lush gardens. Due to the political unrest, tourist numbers haven’t returned in full to this part of Nepal and one could pick and choose from an ample variety. Substantial discounts were offered at nearly all places and I found a convenient cottage opposite the park entrance.

The rest of the village was rather touristy, and prices were far higher than expected. Nepal was more expensive than India and my money was fast running out.

Elephants were a common sight close to the park. One could see pahits (a person who works with the same elephant throughout their working life) walking their elephants between the park and the river to give them their daily bath.

 

29 March - Sauraha

On elephant back, I set off into the national park, and what a great way to see this area. (I subsequently discovered the brutal business of elephant training, and I vowed never to take an elephant ride again.) That said, the deer and other animals seemed unperturbed by the elephants strolling about. The park permit was valid the entire day and, following a bite to eat, I hopped on a canoe for a paddle downriver. Afterwards, a three-hour hike led back to the start. Even though not a great deal of wildlife was spotted, walking in the jungle was a great pleasure. However, I saw plenty of birdlife, deer, the famous March mugger, and a few rhinos. In South Africa, a walk in a nature reserve entails a guide carrying a rifle, but in Nepal, the guides are only armed with a stick. I hoped we wouldn’t run into any tigers or other dangerous animals.

By evening, and at my abode, I was lucky to observe a tribal dance, performed for the benefit of guests staying at the same resort.

 

30 March - Sauraha – Royal Beach Camp - 84km

I biked along while high mountains loomed in the foreground. My path followed the Trishuli River gorge, where teahouses clung to the cliffside and prayer flags blew in the wind. A big smile crossed my face—a grin I wore the remainder of the day. It felt like I had finally arrived in Nepal.

At Mugling, I veered towards Kathmandu, keeping next to the Trishuli River. The road wasn’t flat but never gained any altitude, as there were as many downhill stretches as there were uphill. I continued until I spotted a river rafting camp sporting a beautiful setting and beach huts. Camping there was fun and we sat around, enjoying a few beers and chilling while watching the river flow past.

 

31 March - Royal beach camp – Kathmandu - 90km

I was informed of a 1500m climb ahead and, following a breakfast of delicious pancakes, I proceeded toward Kathmandu. The best part of the way was climbing up the mountainside (still next to the river), but the most significant altitude gain came in a short ten-fifteen-kilometre [GvN1] stretch. A zigzag path proceeded up the mountain, and from afar one could see trucks snaking their way up the pass. I switched to my smallest gear, put my head down and grinded my way to the top. From the top of the pass a long descent proceeded into Kathmandu. Unfortunately, the rain started bucketing down and I reached central Kathmandu freezing and soaked to the bone. Shivering, I booked into the first hotel as I wasn’t going to search for the tourist suburb of Thamel in peak hour traffic and pouring rain. That could wait until the following day.

By morning, I discovered my abode was indeed in Thamel and I only moved to a cheaper place. Thamel has a lively tourist trade, with heaps of accommodation, souvenir shops, and trekking/adventure businesses lining the narrow alleys. I later ran into Ernest—the man should have been a private detective, as he could track anyone down in a matter of days. That night, Ernest and I visited places I frequented in Kathmandu during my trekking expedition to Annapurna three years earlier.

 

1–6 April - Kathmandu

Three years previously, I trekked the well-known Annapurna Trail, one of the most iconic routes through the Himalayas. The scenery and the humbleness of the mountain people stayed with me, and I was delighted to be back among the Nepali people.

Staying in the tourist area of Thamel with its trekking shops, restaurants and Tiger balm sellers came easily. It’s a cosmopolitan area, swarming with tourists, trekkers, climbers and bicycle rickshaws all crammed into its narrow walkways. I had my bike serviced, laundry done and sent a few postcards home.

As the third was my birthday, I splashed out on a pizza and a glass of wine. I even had my nose pierced even though I don’t have a nose one wants to draw attention to.

The dream of cycling from Kathmandu to Tibet was peppered with problems. First, the Tibetan border was closed to individual tourists. The only way to pass through Tibet en route to China was by an organised tour to Lhasa and then by train to China. These tours were expensive and still meant one couldn’t cycle Tibet, and a new plan was devised.

Sadly, the only remaining option was to fly to Thailand and bike to China. So, we bought tickets for 17th April on the notoriously unreliable Royal Nepal Airlines, as they were the cheapest.

As we had plenty of time, Ernest spent three full days cleaning, oiling and adjusting his bike and found a replacement rear axle. I wandered the alleyways, drank coffee and read. As Thamel caters to tourists, a large variety of food was available, ranging from pizzas and felafel to Indian, Mexican, and Tibetan food. Yak cheese and yoghurt were readily available, but I found most of the food bland after six months in India. Instead, I still ordered tasty South Indian dishes instead of Nepali food, which consisted mainly of dahl bhat (rice and lentils). It, however, remained a novelty to order a cheese sandwich from one of the many sandwich shops in the alleys.

Before departing, I discovered the rear axle on my bike was broken. How strange?  I couldn’t help wondering where Ernest found his replacement axel. A whole day was spent having a new axel fitted. Again, I was surprised at the excellent bicycle shop in Kathmandu.

 

7 April - Kathmandu – Mugling - 115km

A day that should’ve been easy riding left me exhausted (I must’ve been coming down with a cold). A short 400-metre climb took us out of Kathmandu Valley and a 1500-metre roller-coaster descent led into the Mahesh Khola Valley. The remainder of the way was an undulating ride along the Trishuli River featuring beautiful vistas. The weather was hot and dusty, quite different to a considerably cooler Kathmandu. On reaching Mugling, I was dead tired and fell asleep shortly after arriving.

Mugling is a small but busy town about halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, on the main road from the South (India). Therefore, the village was a popular truck and bus stop and came with constant honking and revving of lorries, and busses spewing black exhaust fumes.

 

8-9 April - Mugling – Bandipur - 37km

Ernest’s birthday arrived with the hooting and revving of buses and trucks. The path continued west toward Pokhara, but after thirty kilometres of cycling, we veered off to Bandipur. The way to Bandipur was along a sharp eight-kilometre climb. The notorious air pollution made chest infections a common occurrence. In Kathmandu (as in India), the air pollution forced nearly everyone to wear masks. I should’ve done the same.

I subsequently discovered my rear brake didn’t release completely. No wonder I was tired the previous day. Finally, halfway up the hill, I released the brake, after which cycling became far more effortless.

We spent an extra day in Bandipur, allowing my chest to recover, and explored the area around Bandipur.

 

10-11 April - Bandipur – Pokhara - 70km

An exhilarating descent led to the main road (I ensured my rear brake was secured) and then a steady climb led to Pokhara. Unfortunately, Ernest had a puncture on the way down which he repaired whilst observed by a group of intrigued children.

The day was clear and offered good panoramas of snowy Annapurna. Being election time in Nepal, the strike meant no vehicles were allowed on the road. It was great for cycling, with no traffic or diesel fumes, and only grand scenic vistas.

Pokhara is as touristy as Kathmandu and sported hundreds of trekking shops, restaurants and guesthouses. It’s a picturesque place on Lake Phewa, with stunning views of the Annapurna range and Mt Machhapuchhare. In town one can find almost anything from cheese (Yak cheese) to toiletries, clothing and climbing gear. All vastly different from rural Nepal, yet a luxury for anyone who had been travelling or trekking in the mountains for an extended period.

On the 13th of April, I took the bus to Kathmandu instead of biking the same route for the third time in two weeks. Ernest, not one to take a bus, returned to Katmandu by bicycle. I found the bus no less tiring, but at least the bus only took one day instead of three.

 

13-16 April - Kathmandu

In Kathmandu, I walked slap-bang into Nepali New Year’s Eve celebrations. The streets were crowded, and one could barely move. Bars and restaurants were filled to the brim, and music could be heard through the night—what a festive atmosphere! However, the exciting part was finding the Nepali Calendar 57 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar, thus, the year was 2066 instead of 2009.

 

17 April – Kathmandu, Nepal – Bangkok, Thailand - By Air

We left our room at 5h00 and pedalled through the quiet dark streets of Kathmandu to the airport to catch our flight to Bangkok, Thailand. There was, however, no need for our early arrival. The flight, scheduled to leave at 9h00, only departed at 11h15. Following a two-and-a-half-hour flight, our flight landed in Bangkok.

Upon arrival, the sweltering heat of Thailand was immediately evident. After an expensive taxi ride into the city, a guesthouse in touristy Banglamphu was located. We huffed, puffed, and sweated, but finally, the bikes were reassembled, and panniers repacked.

A walk along the immensely touristy street of Khao San Road, with its bars, restaurants and street food vendors, gave us our first taste of exciting Bangkok, which would forever remain one of my favourite cities.


 [GvN1]Is this correct? Not specific

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