USA (2) - PART ONE
SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO
8 173
Kilometres – 134 Days
22 MAY – 1 OCTOBER 2014
22 MAY – 1 OCTOBER 2014
PART ONE
SEATTLE - SAN FRANCISCO
22 May - 22 June
1700 Km - 31 Days
SEATTLE - SAN FRANCISCO
22 May - 22 June
1700 Km - 31 Days
Washington Photos
Washington
22 May – Seoul, South Korea - Seattle, Washington,
USA
My flight from South Korea landed in Seattle, USA
just as the sun started peeking over the horizon. The early morning light was
amazing and the water and forests surrounding the city made for a beautiful
sight. The most remarkable part was arriving in Seattle before even departing
Beijing, China.
I was dead tired when I collected my luggage,
hailed a taxi, and headed to downtown Seattle. We first swung by the bike shop
to drop off the bicycle and then searched for the hostel I had booked. Later, I discovered that my backpack, containing all my valuable items, was left in the taxi, putting me in a flat spin, to put it mildly. While Yellow Taxi Cabs
had a lost-and-found section, I only left my details as I could not provide a
phone number, car registration number, or driver name.
After a much-needed nap, I woke up to a pleasant
surprise as my lost bag was on my bedside table. I couldn't contain my joy and
did a little happy dance! It's worth mentioning that the taxi driver who
returned my bag was the sweetest Somali guy. We had chatted non-stop during the
ride from the airport, and I had a feeling that if someone were to return the
bag, it would be him. So, a massive thank you to this unknown Somalian taxi
driver, who restored my faith in humanity.
23 May - Seattle
The following day, I had some free time to explore
Seattle as my bike was being serviced and the cycling maps I ordered had yet to
arrive. The city offered a beautiful waterfront, a bustling market area, and a
charming old town, perfect for a leisurely stroll.
After my mandatory cup of coffee at Starbucks, I
headed to REI. It turned out to be a huge mistake because the store was absolutely
marvellous, offering nearly everything needed for outdoor activities, all of
exceptional quality. I soon realised that leaving the store without buying
something was impossible, so I purchased a solar panel to charge all my numerous
gadgets.
24 to 25 May - Seattle
The much-awaited maps arrived a day late, but
fortunately, the bicycle was ready to go. The bike shop had done a fantastic
job servicing the bike and even repaired the broken front rack. However, I had
to go to Best Buy on the opposite side of the town to purchase the Garmin North
America map. The fun part was that I had to rely on different modes of public
transportation to reach my destination. Finally, I downloaded the map online,
but setting it up proved challenging. Despite these hurdles, I was
determined to start my journey the next day.
The next day, I had the good fortune of meeting
Mike, a friend I had made through the 365-project. We spent the day exploring
the lively folk festival, enjoying the music and the atmosphere. Later, we
climbed up the hill for a few night shots of the city skyline. I was grateful
to have Mike's company in Seattle as he knew the area well, and his presence made
the city feel more familiar and welcoming.
26 May - Seattle
I was feeling restless and eager to leave, but I hesitated
to depart without the maps I had ordered. As a result, I decided to stay an
extra day.
I kept myself occupied with an intriguing
underground tour of Seattle. The city was built on tidal flats during the
1800s, which frequently caused streets to flood. In response, the town council
constructed retaining walls to raise the street level by one story. The tour
took place beneath these streets, and it was a fascinating experience walking
along what were once ground-floor shops.
I later discovered that the maps had arrived a day
earlier, but I was unaware because no one informed me, and I never thought to
inquire. How silly of me!
27 May - Seattle – Shelton - 80 km
I was thrilled to embark on my first day of cycling
in the USA, boarding the ferry from Seattle to Bremerton. However, due to a
delay in the ferry's arrival, I didn't cover as much distance as I had hoped.
From Bremerton, I followed Route 3 south, a scenic
route that took me through an entirely new landscape—tall pine trees with a
snowy mountain backdrop. Despite the cool weather, the sun was out, and I had a
pleasant day cycling to Shelton.
Since it was Memorial Day, practically every
village I passed had some kind of festival or fair, complete with corn dogs and
lemonade. After all, this was the USA! Just before the historic town of
Shelton, I was drawn to a campground, as there was a nearby food store. The
festive atmosphere and the delicious food were a testament to the vibrant local
culture, and I was glad to be a part of it, even if only for a day.
28 May - Shelton – Centralia - 120 km
My day started with a drizzle and it persisted throughout the day. Despite the miserable weather, the ride was beautiful, passing through small settlements that looked straight out of a movie set.
Centralia, a charming town with a history dating
back to the 1800s, was a delightful surprise. Its historic downtown was a
treasure trove of architectural gems, and the small town offered excellent
camping facilities at a motel. There was also a nearby food store, making it a
perfect spot for camping. Interestingly, the town seemed to have a significant
homeless population, including individuals with disabilities, drug addicts, and
the mentally ill. Despite their circumstances, they were all very kind and willing
to help in any way they could.
29 May - Centralia – Longview - 115 km
The following day, as I pedalled through the
streets, I couldn't help but notice the beautiful old murals and buildings that
adorned the area. Eventually, I ventured out of town and was greeted by
breathtaking views under a bright and sunny sky. The route led me through a
series of villages and towns, each with its own unique character and charm.
By late afternoon, I arrived in Longview, home to
the Cowlitz Indian Tribe. Unfortunately, no camping options were available, and
the weather had turned bitterly cold. Thankfully, I stumbled upon a reasonably
priced motel that offered a warm and comfortable place to overnight.
Oregon
30 May - Longview – Fort Stevens State Park - 115
km
Starting from Longview, Route 4 follows the
Columbia River, part of the historic Lewis and Clark Trail, and serves as a
cycling and hiking trail. The path follows the river until it reaches
Cathlamet, from where one can cross the Columbia River to the state of Oregon.
Crossing the river is a two-step process: first, by bridge to an island in the
middle of the river, and then by ferry to Westport.
While crossing the river, fellow cyclists advised
me on state camping on the outskirts of Astoria, so heading there was an
obvious choice. Astoria also had excellent tourist information that provided
valuable information about the route and camping further south.
Once I had stocked up, I headed towards the park,
which was vast and immensely fascinating. Not only was it the breeding ground
of snowy plovers, but it also had remains of an old fort, shipwreck, and hiking
and biking trails. Soon, the other cyclists I had met arrived, and by evening,
we made a big campfire to keep warm and socialise.
31 May - Fort Stevens State Park – Nehalem Bay
State Park - 70 km
After packing up, I waved goodbye to the other
cyclists and set off toward the next state park. These parks were fantastic, as
they had hike-and-bike sections where one could camp for a mere five or six
dollars, if by bike or on foot. This suited me fine, as I had no intention of
rushing down the coast.
The day’s ride was stunning, and the views were
quite spectacular. I reached Nehalem Bay in good time, pitched my tent, and
lazed about for the rest of the day. The park was located along a sandbank
between the ocean and the Nehalem River and offered popular beach horse rides.
Again, cyclists Lam and Jeffry arrived, and they again made a fire to keep warm
and cook dinner.
1 June - Nehalem Bay State Park – Cape Lookout SP -
62 km
Following the coast brought many remarkable sights.
Shortly after stopping at The Three Graces or Crab Rock, Garibaldi presented an
excellent opportunity to grab a bite to eat. This small settlement had a
plethora of fascinating things to explore, and after spending some time, I
continued to the next Hike & Bike.
Even though I stopped a gazillion times, Cape
Lookout State Park was reached early. The park boasted several hiking trails
that led to a lookout point, keeping me occupied for the rest of the
day.
2 June - Cape Lookout SP – Pacific City - 30 km
First thing in the morning, the road climbed up and
over the hills to Pacific City. Once in town, and while filling up my water, I
encountered a super-friendly guy who turned out to be the owner
of the Pacific Inn. We chatted for a while before he generously offered me a
lovely room to stay, free of charge. The staff even offered to do my laundry, though
I hoped it wasn’t because I reeked to high heaven.
The rest of my day was spent relaxing and
recharging my devices while enjoying the luxury of watching TV. As evening
approached, I decided to indulge in the American tradition of dining at a
traditional pub with country music, beer on tap, and burgers. Oh, my word,
what’s with the massive portions?
3 June - Pacific City – Beverly Beach SP - 70 km
I didn't expect to see Lam and Jeffry again, but I
was surprised to find them slowly crawling up a long hill shortly beyond
Pacific City. We cycled together, had coffee at McDonald's, and shopped at a
small grocery store. Afterwards, we agreed to meet at the next Hike & Bike
and then proceeded at our own pace.
The stretch to Beverly Beach was short but
exceptionally scenic, passing Neskowin Beach, Boiler Bay, Pirate Cove, Rocky
Creek, and Devil's Punchbowl.
4 June - Beverly Beach SP – Jessie M Honeyman - 70
km
Lam and Jeffry planned to visit the bike shop, so I
continued south. Suddenly, I came across a fudge shop, which was too tempting
to ignore. I stopped and bought two large pieces. While enjoying one outside
the shop, the owner surprised me with one of her famous chocolate brownies. It
was an act of kindness that I didn't expect, especially in a capitalist
society.
5 June - Jessie M Honeyman - Bullard’s Beach - 112
km
From Jessie M. Honeyman, an undulating coastal road
led to Bullard’s Beach. The Oregon coast was picturesque, even more so with a
tailwind. A few cyclists were already set up by the time I slinked into camp.
However, the calm was short-lived, as the wind picked up, making it challenging
to pitch the tent. The situation escalated quickly, and two of my tent poles
snapped under the pressure. Fortunately, other cyclists came to my aid and
helped repair the poles.
6 June - Bullard’s Beach – Gold Beach - 100 km
With the help of a 45 km/h wind, I confirmed that
cycling south was a good idea. Gold Beach, situated along the Rogue River, was
named after gold was discovered at its mouth in the mid-1800s. Unfortunately,
the wind was howling, and I decided to skip camping as I didn't trust the tent
in such a strong wind.
Once I located a room, a short walk led me to a
grocery store and laundromat, where I met Steve, a fascinating man who appeared
to be homeless. He was doing laundry and travelling by bicycle, much like me.
However, I was less interesting than him. His bicycle wasn't a touring bike; instead,
it resembled a ‘trick bike’ towing a trailer stacked with three crates. He generously
offered me his last bit of washing powder, saving me from buying any from the
machine. Such a kind gesture!
Returning to my accommodation, I stumbled upon a
store selling peculiar bits and bobs. To my surprise, I found a pack of tarot
cards. I lost mine ages ago and couldn't believe I had found a replacement in
this tiny village. Smiling at my good fortune, I ambled home.
7 June - Gold Beach – Crescent City - 116 km
On my way to Crescent City the following day, I
crossed the state line into California. Along the route, I ran into Steve
again, who was collecting cans. He kindly offered me a muffin he had bought
earlier and gave me a beautiful feather, which almost brought me to tears. What
impressed me most was that he remembered my name. We had a pleasant chat before
I said goodbye and resumed my journey.
As I rode further, I was surprised to meet a
cyclist heading north with a crate holding a happy little puppy. Riding north
meant facing the prevailing wind, and his load was quite heavy.
When I reached Crescent City and asked about
camping options, I was told that the closest site was a wild camp without
facilities or water. The next one was too far away, so I found a room instead.
I found it interesting that like many towns I had
cycled through, tribes had inhabited this region. Unfortunately, foreign
trappers, settlers, and gold miners arrived in the mid-1800s and took their
lands, much like in parts of Africa and Australia.
California
8 June - Crescent City - Palm Café & Motel - 70
km
With its old town and Victorian houses, Eureka was a
perfect place to overnight. Shortly after leaving Crescent City, I came across a
cyclist parked by the side of the road. She wasn’t merely equipped with four
panniers but also had a trailer that housed two dogs. I could barely get myself
up the hills, let alone pull a cart and two dogs!
It turned into a beautiful day of cycling—the sun
was out, and the route headed through forests and occasionally along the coast.
Still, the area remained undulating and included one big(ish) climb. My legs
felt tired, and though the cycling days were short, I have had no rest days
since departing Seattle.
Later, I ran into Casy, whom I’d met previously. We
chatted a while and I decided to stay at a nearby motel. The motel was way over
my budget, but I felt tired and paid the price. The café had good food, as well
as a daily special, which made the decision even easier.
9 June - Palm Café & Motel - Clam Beach State
Park - 40 km
Trinidad’s pretty town and picture-perfect harbour
and lighthouse called for a photo stop and shopping at the village store. Not
much further, I caught up to another cyclist, and we cycled the few kilometres
to Clam Beach campsite. Albeit early, Clam Beach seemed a good enough place to
spend the night. The site, nevertheless, turned out somewhat exposed and sandy.
10 June - Clam Beach – Humboldt Redwood State Park
- 95 km
Country roads took me from Clam Beach to Humboldt
Redwood State Park. The areas outside the big cities were surprisingly rural.
I decided that it was time to go shopping for a new
tent. Adventures Edge, an outdoor store offering a good selection of camping
equipment was just the place. With the new tent strapped to the bike, I was
eager to try it out.
Soon afterwards, a turnoff pointed to Avenue of the
Giants. What a spectacular sight to see massive Redwood trees, which are said
to be the tallest in the world. These trees can get up to 2,000 years old.
Virtually all the trees in the park were between 400 and 600 years old, which
is pretty old for a tree.
Red Crescent had no grocery store, and I was
pointed down the hill to the previous campsite. I sped downhill only to find there
was no shop, then made my way back up the hill to the next camp. Luckily, I had
enough food to see me through. I was eager to try the new tent, which was
surprisingly easy to pitch and it felt like moving into a new house. Slightly
bigger and heavier than the lightweight one-person hiking tent I used to have,
it turned out to be a perfect tent by Columbia, which lasted for many years
afterwards.
11 June - Humboldt Redwood State Park
Humboldt Redwood State Park was so unique that it
called for a day of hiking. After cycling the four miles to the shop to stock
up, I returned to my spot in the woods. The camp was surprisingly quiet for
such a beautiful location, and I was the sole camper. Later, more cyclists and
Kat (the lady with the dogs) arrived. Our conversation went on late into the
night, as she was a fascinating yoga teacher who had previously lived in India.
12 June - Humboldt Redwoods SP – Standish-Hickey SP
- 80 km
The following morning, in the next village, a family cycling through the region recommended Standish-Hickey SP. I was warned about a substantial hill ahead and advised to tackle it with fresh legs. I thought this was sound advice and cycled to the campsite, where I was the single camper.
13 June - Standish-Hickey SP – Mendocino - 88 km
The following day, my route ran past the drive-thru
tree, and I snapped more pictures. Afterwards, I continued over the mountain,
which mercifully wasn’t as severe as predicted. However, the road soon spat me
out at the coast, where a hilly ride took me via Fort Brag and to the next Hike
& Bike.
14 June - Mendocino - Manchester Beach KOA - 66 km
The day was a short but came with an immensely
hilly ride and, as using the internet was a priority, I pulled into KOA
Manchester Beach, thinking such a large and well-known campsite would have
Wi-Fi and laundry facilities. Unfortunately, the Wi-Fi was a disappointment and
only free for an hour. Moreover, the Wi-Fi was practically useless as I could
not get a connection. The laundry, nevertheless, proved useful, and I tossed a
few things into the machine.
15 June - Manchester Beach KOA - Bodega Bay Dunes
State Park - 120 km
The Californian coast was slightly undulating but
beautiful, calling for numerous photo stops. The good weather made cycling a pleasure, so I proceeded to Bodega Bay.
16 June - Bodega Bay – San Rafael - 134 km
My path veered inland to Bodega City, a place
filled with intriguing sights and curiosities. The city and bay had a long
history. As elsewhere, the Miwoks were the original landowners and the Spanish
first surveyed the area in 1775. The Russians claimed the spot for king and country
in the 1800s. Their legacy remains in names like the Russian River State Marine
Recreational Management Area and the Russian River State Marine Conservation
Area, two marine-protected areas in the Russian River.
The town was also a key filming location The
Birds, and the old schoolhouse was still used. Roadworks and detours made for
a long day on the bicycle.
Eventually, I arrived in San Rafael. With no
camping options available, a motel room became home for the night. San Rafael
was awfully close to San Francisco, but it was already late, and I had done enough
cycling for one day.
17 June - San Rafael – San Francisco - 35 km
A short cycle led over the iconic Golden Gate
Bridge and into San Francisco. Shortly past the bridge, I met a cyclist who
accompanied me in finding a hostel. Unfortunately, the first one we enquired at
was full. So, we continued past the waterfront to the next one, but only after
stopping for coffee and a bagel. The Adelaide Hostel turned out lovely (a tad
pricy but so were all hostels in SF). It came with a complimentary breakfast
and a highly central location.
I used the internet to catch up on online work but
discovered I had lost my daily journal.
I further discovered my phone’s SIM card slot was faulty; no wonder my phone never had an internet connection. The Garmin map
bought in Seattle never loaded on my device, so I emailed them to inquire about
what to do. As if that wasn’t enough, my camera lens got stuck (after dropping
the camera). Although still functioning, it lost the auto-focus. At the camera
store, I bought a new lens. It wasn’t high quality, but it had an 18-200mm lens,
replacing the two I had previously carried.
18 June - San Francisco
I visited the computer shop to see if they could
retrieve the lost journal file. The weather in San Francisco was glorious, and
it was a good day to take the streetcar to the waterfront. Besides wondering
about and blending in, I obtained information regarding a train to Seattle. The
news was good, as a train departs San Francisco daily at around 22h00 for the
return trip to Seattle.
I still had to put the bicycle in a box, which was available
at the station for $15 plus a $10 handling fee. I further understood all I had
to do was go to the AM track office, where the bike and bags would be loaded
onto the train. Though the train was from Emeryville, the ticket included a bus
ride from the Amtrak office to the train station.
The plan was to return to Seattle and cycle from
there, either across Canada or east across the US. In the meantime, my new
passport was eventually ready, and my sister forwarded it to the hostel in
Seattle. Happy days!
19 June - San Francisco
With no phone call or email from the computer shop,
I took a stroll to inquire about what was going on. Regrettably, they couldn’t recover
the lost file, and a big blank remained in the journal.
Garmin never returned the email, and I sent them an
additional message; it didn’t make any difference as they never answered emails—such
poor service.
I was eager to get going but could hardly leave
without the laptop. I further needed to apply for a Canadian visa, which seemed
more trouble than it was worth. The online application was lengthy, and I lost
interest even before registering. What a mission!
20 June - San Francisco
All these tedious tasks were getting to me, so I
joined a walking tour of San Francisco. Afterwards, a visit to the computer
shop revealed that they were still busy, and they advised me to check the
following day. However, as the next day was a Saturday, they only opened at
12h00, which meant I had to spend one more day in San Francisco.
I made a serious effort at the hostel to complete
Canada’s lengthy and complicated online visa application. My word—it was like
applying for the presidency! Canada wanted all your family information, both
dead and alive and, so, it was late at night by the time everything was finally
done.
21 June - San Francisco
After breakfast, I collected my laptop, and once at
the hostel, I completed the visa information. Still, there was no word about what
form the visa would take and how it should be collected, and I guessed some
form of proof would be emailed. The website gave the estimated processing times
for the various offices but not an online application.
Eventually, everything was completed and submitted
and even if no processing time was mentioned, I imagined it would be a long
wait, in the region of three weeks or more.
22 June - San Francisco
I made my way to the Amtrak station. The bike boxes
sold were quite large and the bicycle easily fitted once the pedals were
removed and the handlebars turned sideways. The remainder of my stuff went into
one large bag (bought in Chinatown). Unfortunately, the train wasn’t due until
evening, and I had a whole day to kill.
The best part of the day was spent trying to rewrite
my lost journal—a laborious task. By evening, a short stroll took me downtown
to the Amtrak office, where buses ran to Emeryville.
The train was a strange setup – I had never seen a
double-storey train before. It was extremely comfortable and provided plenty of
legroom. It turned out well, as my seat was next to a rather large person. I
then realised how challenging it must be to carry such a size around—everything
becomes twice the effort. One constantly needed to feed the body to maintain
such a size. All this effort must leave them utterly exhausted by the end of
the day.
23 June – San Fransisco – Seattle – By train
For the most part, my time on the train was spent
trying to rewrite the journal, which was challenging considering my goldfish memory. With the help of my photos and Google Maps, I reconstructed
the past month’s events. It wasn’t perfect and made reading uninteresting, but
I again lost interest long before the job was done. Fortunately, there was
nothing to do, and I couldn’t go anywhere, so I was forced to finish the job.
The train ride was picturesque, and it was quite a
novelty sitting back and watch the landscape pass by without pedalling a single
stroke.
The train arrived in Seattle late, but thankfully,
the hostel was across the road from the train station. Once the bike was
reassembled, I packed my belongings and cycled to the hostel.
24-25 June - Seattle
First thing in the morning, a short walk took me to
the Canadian Consulate, where I discovered they had no visa information and were
unsure how to collect it once it was granted. This lack of information left me
no option but to resume my quest east across the US’s northern states until
Canadian access was granted.
The weather was glorious, perfect for a walking
tour, sampling their world-famous clam chowder while feeding seagulls, and
watching the sunset.
