075 CYCLING THAILAND (6) - EN ROUTE FROM MALAYSIA TO MYANMAR

 

THAILAND (6) - TAKE TWO

 1 099 Km - 29 Days

12 September - 10 October 2015

 

MAP

PHOTOS

 

11 September - Guran, Malaysia – Sadao, Thailand - 105 km

My final day of cycling in Malaysia was a delightful cycle as the rain abated, revealing a vivid blue sky. A scenic minor road running parallel to the main road ensured easy and enjoyable riding. The aftermath of the recent rainy days presented views of the lush green countryside and flooded rice paddies.

My chosen route led northward towards the Malaysia-Thailand border. However, crossing into Thailand proved unexpectedly challenging due to having both my old and new passports. Additionally, Thai authorities demanded proof of twenty thousand Thai baht in cash without accepting bank statements. They also insisted on a return ticket. As a result, I had to make a trip to the bank to withdraw the required amount of money to satisfy the authorities. I explained that I was travelling by bicycle and, fortunately, wasn't pressed for a ticket proving my exit from the country. By this time, it was already quite late, so I decided to overnight in Sadao.

 

12 September - Thailand/Malaysia Border – Hat Yai - 60 km

Hat Yai was just sixty kilometres away, and I took a leisurely day in the city. While there, I spent time on the computer and, unfortunately, ended up deleting my entire Flickr account. It was quite a shock because I didn't use Flickr for sharing photos but for storing them. Later, I had a conversation with my friend Lois and we made plans to meet up in Bangkok.

 

13 September - Hat Yai – Patthulung – 97 km

As I was continuing north to Bangkok, I had a heart-warming experience when two young individuals on a scooter offered me a 100Plus sports drink. Their generous gesture truly exemplified the exceptional kindness of the people in Thailand, who are always ready to share what they have.

My route took me past vibrant fruit stalls showcasing an array of tantalizing tropical fruits, as well as intricately designed Buddhist temples that are an ubiquitous sight in the region. To capture the essence of my travels, I attempted to create short video clips, but I found it more challenging than I had initially expected. Consequently, I decided to stick to still photographs instead.

 

14 September - Patthalung – Thung Song – 97 km

As I cycled along Route 41, I stumbled upon a charming roadside restaurant called “Route 41”. It was the perfect spot to stop for brunch, and I was greeted by incredibly friendly people once again. The owner, who happened to be a photographer, kindly gifted me one of his beautiful postcard books.

Despite feeling a bit sluggish, I pressed on because the overcast weather created ideal cycling conditions. However, my energy dipped after a late breakfast, and I knew it was time to call it a day when I reached the small settlement of Thung Song. Luckily, I found a budget hotel there with spacious, well-lit rooms and ample ground-floor space, which was perfect for storing my bike.

 

15-16 September - Thung Song – Ban Tha Rua (Surat Thani intersection) - 108 km

As I pedalled along, I couldn't help but notice my pace slowing considerably. It suddenly struck me that I had covered over 1000 kilometres without taking a single rest day.

Sadly, the day was marred by persistent rain showers, prompting me to seek shelter for about an hour before resuming my journey. I ended the day's ride at the Surat Thani intersection, where I found comfortable digs conveniently located next to a petrol station.

 

17 September - Ban Tha Rua – Bamboo Hotel - 30 km

Upon noticing a gap in the weather, I hurriedly packed up and cycled out of Surat Thani. Shortly afterwards, another storm moved in. Fed up with the weather, I struggled on, but when I reached a petrol station offering convenient accommodation, I pulled in to escape the weather.

 

18 September - Bamboo Hotel – roadside cottage - 90 km

The weather forecast predicted three hours of cloudy skies before more thunderstorms. I, hence, hopped on the bike early. Midway, a sign to a spa lured me in. The place was somewhat hidden away, and it took walking through the forest before reaching the baths. I didn’t spend much time indulging in these mineral-rich waters as the weather came in and I felt it was best to get underway.

Fortunately, I managed to cycle virtually the entire way without becoming soaked. The weather came in just as I reached a 24-hour joint and couldn’t believe my luck. Typically, these 24-hour places are love motels, and this one sported cute bungalows at reasonable rates. I didn’t argue about the price and was happy to unload my sopping wet gear in their little cottage. Their little shop offered an assortment of goods, including cup noodles, refreshing beer, and crisps, all of which perfectly suited my requirements.

 

19 September - Roadside Cottage –Chumphon - 90 km

The looming possibility of thunderstorms didn't deter me, and I pedalled as a woman possessed towards Chumphon. Under threatening clouds, I cycled nonstop, skipping sightseeing. The rainy season had transformed the landscape, with rivers overflowing and drains clogged. It felt like every house not on stilts was at risk of getting submerged.

By midday, I reached Chumphon just before the rain arrived and made my way to The Farang Bar. Although the atmosphere seemed quieter than I remembered, the affordability and convenience of the bar and restaurant remained unchanged, providing a comfortable spot to unwind and hide from the weather.

 

20 September - Chumphon – Nipa Beach Bungalow – 110 km

After cycling for about twenty kilometres, I stopped for breakfast because I felt tired. Despite my fatigue, the breath-taking views of the Gulf of Thailand restored my spirits. It was a delight to continue my ride amidst such picturesque scenery.

To my surprise, I encountered fellow cycle tourists for the first time in months. They were rushing to exit the country before their visas expired. We exchanged stories and tips before parting ways.

As I approached the turnoff to Nipa Beach Bungalows, I felt content to call it quits.

 

21-22 September - Nipa Beach Bungalow – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 100 km

By morning, the temperature was back in the mid-30s, whereas the previous days had been around 27ᵒC. Even the snakes were out to enjoy the warmer weather, and I kept an eye[VGC{1]  out for them basking in the sun. The remainder of the ride to Prachuaup was uneventful, and I bunked down at Maggie's Homestay.

When I woke up the following morning, I was happy to pull the blanket over my head and continue sleeping. I also received word from Lois stating she couldn’t make our Thailand rendezvous. Apart from setting up a new blog (as I couldn’t access my old one due to not having the original phone number), I did little of note.

 

23-24 September – Prachuap Khiri Khan – Hua Hin - 101 km

The day flew by as I picked up a tailwind. Hua Hin is a popular holiday resort, especially among long-term Westerners. The narrow lanes between the main road and the ocean were lined with Western restaurants and bars. All were frequented by older European men, proudly parading Thai companions on the arm.

My abode of choice was basic accommodation on stilts over the water, and staying an extra day came easily. Unfortunately, little was done as the weather remained rainy for the best part of the day. However, I didn’t mind, as I was snug in my teeny room.

 

25 September - Hua Hin – Samut Songkhram - 118 km

The stretch between Hua Hin and Samut Songkhram was a most pleasant ride. The weather was excellent as I followed tranquil country lanes. The path led along a river and through luminous green rice paddies, past prominent, brightly coloured temples and one-lane fishing communities where colourful fishing boats lay four deep and sleeping dogs scarcely bothered lifting an eye.

It appeared a rarity seeing a foreign woman on a bike, and welcoming villagers called greetings and kids on bicycles found it fun to give chase. In contrast, others seemed slightly apprehensive, and my every move was watched with great interest. I arrived in Samut Songkhram just as the food stalls were set up.

Hometown Hostel was inexpensive, and although the rooms were tiny, I was the only one there and had the dorm all to myself. The streets were jampacked with food vendors, and one could pick and choose from the numerous dishes on offer.

 

26 September – Samut Songkhram – Bangkok - 98 km

Instead of following the main road, I weaved along village lanes toward Bangkok. These secondary roads made riding far more enjoyable. Greetings of “Hello, farang!” and scores of food carts dotted the way. The fascinating thing was that all drinks automatically came as a takeaway in a handy plastic bag that could be hooked onto the handlebar.

The last 30 kilometres into town was a complete nightmare along the busy Phetkasem Road. Gridlocked traffic made a slow and frustrating ride. Eventually, I turned off onto a smaller path that required a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. This wasn’t a disaster, but the stairs to and from the ferry made the crossing a whole performance. Fortunately, many hands made light work and I soon reached Peachy Guesthouse, my trusted accommodation in Bangkok.

 

27 September - Bangkok

The plan all along was to cycle from Thailand via Myanmar to India. As it was Sunday, I did nothing the entire day, and I could only visit the Indian Embassy the following day. Upon reviewing the details, I realized that the application processing time was nine working days. As a result, I estimated that I would be staying in Bangkok for a few more days.

 

28 September – 2 October - Bangkok

First thing Monday morning, I went to the Indian embassy, application in hand, only to be told that the rules had changed, and foreigners could no longer apply in Bangkok! Have you ever? My disbelief was due to the embassy’s online application beforehand. The previous day, I checked my application, which stated, “Your application was successfully submitted.” In my pea-size brain, this translated to everything being in order. But as always, there was no arguing with embassy staff.

So, to clear my head, I opted to walk to my guesthouse instead of taking a bus, which also allowed me to take a few pictures of typical city life. In the process, I lost a lens cap in the river. This darn blood moon in Aries wasn’t good, at all.

I eventually spoke to the Indian Visa Centre in Kuala Lumpur, and it appeared foreigners could apply in Malaysia. My annoyance with the whole saga was that I stayed at Peter’s on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur and could easily have applied there. But no, I had ants in my pants and wanted to get going.

I phoned Kuala Lumpur to make 100% sure and, this time, the answer was, “You can apply but have a 50/50 chance.” I didn’t quite understand this either, as I assumed the answer would be a simple “Yes” or “No.” However, the Indian embassy in Myanmar was more helpful and confirmed one could apply in Yangon. This suited me perfectly, as I was heading to Myanmar anyway.

It’s no secret I love Bangkok. I love it for a variety of reasons. Where else in the world can one board a water taxi and a few minutes later a modern Skytrain which will drop you right in the buzzing CBD? A walk around the corner of these modern skyscrapers will bring you to where people live in askew homes upon stilts over the water, right in the heart of the city centre. Even in these modern times, the river remains the city’s heartbeat and a place where tugboats, barges, river taxis and longtail boats all jostle for position. Old temples sit snugly amidst modern architecture, and old wooden structures cling desperately to rotting stilts. So, I smiled when I saw longtail boats plying the waters, on the hunt for the unsuspecting tourist. Add the weird, wonderful, pierced, dreadlocked, and tattooed farangs, and I could easily linger awhile.

 

3 October - Bangkok

Today was a complete nightmare. It began with what was intended to be a simple haircut. Little did I know that it would turn into a total disaster, leaving me with barely any hair left to attach extensions. After that ordeal, I decided to lay low for the rest of the day.

As the sun went down, I mustered up some confidence and decided to take a leisurely walk with my tripod in hand. To my surprise, I found that Wat Po, the temple of the reclining Buddha, was open. While the main temple area was closed, the grounds were still accessible. With not a soul in sight, I had the privilege of exploring these breath-taking temples all to myself.

I kept putting it off, and a whole week went by and I still didn’t take my bicycle in for a service. Considering that I've covered over 8000 kilometres on the same chain and cogs, I thought it high time to have it checked out before I continued my journey to Myanmar and then onwards to India.

 

4-7 October - Bangkok

I was operating in low gear as the Myanmar visa took a few days. I cycled to Bok-Bok Bike, left the bike in their capable hands and then walked along Bangkok’s old klongs and canals. These ancient waterways still exist, and although several have been filled, a few remain. Here, I discovered people living, trading, socialising, and doing their daily business. I squeezed past narrow doorways, stepping over shoes and chickens as I followed the canal to the guesthouse. I ducked under bridges and through markets, past crooked houses and intriguing restaurants. Bangkok never fails to amaze.

A few days later, I returned to the bike shop to see how far they had progressed, but they were closed. I continued past the bike shop and discovered a host of fascinating things. First, I came upon tradesmen crafting monks’ alms bowls - I understood they’ve been doing this continuously since the 1700s!

I strolled through traditional markets and modern shopping malls until reaching the Goddess Tubtim Shrine. At this shrine were countless oversized phalluses of all shapes and sizes standing tall, proud, and dare I say, erect – proof that size does matter even in the spirit world! The shrine honours Chao Mae Tubtim, a female fertility spirit. Women visit this shrine when trying to conceive. And, if rumours can be believed, the shrine has a tremendous success rate. Women will return if their wish is fulfilled and place yet another phallus at the shrine in gratitude. How weird!

Afterwards, a canal water taxi took me back to my place, an experience in itself, and not for the faint-hearted. It required jumping on board rather quickly as the boat barely came to a halt before moving on. It's not an easy task, camera in hand. The ferry terminal was a few kilometres from my guesthouse and the last few kilometres were by motorbike taxi. It’s best not to look, as my driver weaved through the traffic at high-speed ignoring all traffic rules.

 

8–10 October – Bangkok – 38 km

I’m constantly hoping to find unusual things, so I set out to an abandoned building. Known as the Sathorn Unique, this 50-storey building was left unfinished in 1997 during the world economic crisis. It was rumoured to become one of Bangkok's most luxurious residential buildings.

I encountered a young couple from Australia who, like me, were aimlessly walking around. We came across a building that was cordoned off. Adjacent to it, there was a small restaurant with a garage-style roll-up door that led to the enclosed area. The Australian girl and I ventured into the yard, but the restaurant owner abruptly shut the door and threatened to call the police. Despite her boyfriend's pleas from inside the restaurant, she refused to open the door. Seeing an opportunity, I tried to take some photos, but the resident caretaker was not at all pleased with the idea.

To my surprise, the young Australian woman switched to speaking in Thai and explained our situation. It turned out that her mother was Thai. Eventually, the caretaker unlocked a side gate, allowing us to leave. Meanwhile, the boyfriend was still attempting to persuade the owner to open the door from inside the restaurant. They were quite taken aback when they saw us again.

The following morning, I emerged to a drizzle that continued all morning, but the rain abated around midday. With lightning speed, I loaded my bike and set out of Bangkok, even though I had paid for an extra night. Halfway out of the city, I decided to hop on a bus to Mae Sot, the border town between Thailand and Myanmar. Having cycled this route twice before, I felt there was no need to pedal the same path for a third time. Covered in mud, I arrived at the bus station, drawing curious gazes from onlookers.

The bus to Mae Sot was only scheduled for 20h00, which meant a relatively long wait—not only a long wait, but a very inconvenient 4h00 arrival in May Sot.

The bus trip was comfortable and uneventful, but our arrival coincided with pouring rain, leaving me to cycle the few kilometres into town in darkness and bucketing rain. I arrived sopping wet at the Porn-The Hotel. Despite the name, it was actually a pretty decent place. LOL.

I was a tad ahead of myself in saying I was going to India. India was more than 1,500 kilometres away, and I still needed to traverse Myanmar (again) to pick up an Indian visa, hopefully without losing my passport this time. At the time, the only border crossing between the two countries was in the remote northern region of India and Myanmar. The area was restricted, and one needed a special permit, which I understood could be purchased in Yangon.

 

11 October - Maesot, Thailand – Kawkareik, Myanmar – 55 km

I first had breakfast at Krua Canadian, a European restaurant run by a Canadian. The owner has lived in Thailand for more than 17 years and was a mine of information. The food was excellent and came just at the right time when people generally had enough noodle soup.

Afterwards, it was “take two” as I cycled the short distance to the border, where I crossed without drama, drew 300,000 Burmese kyats and bought a SIM card. Once all was done, it was already past midday when I cycled out of hectic Myawadi and then set off over the mountains. Although the new road was open, the ride remained slow, and the climb steeper than it looked. At least two truck accidents occurred during the day, indicating they were obviously not used to the new, faster road.

Upon reaching the summit, the weather took a turn and I found myself drenched as I descended the mountains. Thankfully, I stumbled upon a guesthouse in the quaint village of Kawkareik. It seemed unlikely that many foreigners ever spent the night in this remote locale. After securing accommodation, I ventured out in search of a meal, feeling like a spectacle in this small town. Despite my hunger, most restaurants were closed as electricity was only available after 6 p.m. Nevertheless, I managed to find some unique local snacks that differed completely from the street food I had encountered in Thailand.

074 CYCLING MALAYSIA (2) - WAITING FOR A NEW PASSPORT

MALAYSIA (2)

3 205 Kilometres - 66 Days

8 June – 11 September 2015

MAP

PHOTOS

 

8 June - Hat Yai, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia - 105 km

After an easy 55-kilometre cycle, I arrived at the Thailand-Malaysia border. It was a hassle-free border crossing, and I was automatically granted a 90-day stay, which was a relief. Sixty kilometres later, I reached Alor Setar, which is known as the gateway to Langkawi. However, I hadn't planned to go there and was only looking for a place to spend the night.

While no country is perfect, some come closer to paradise than others. With Malaysia’s delicious cuisine that blends Malay, Chinese, and Indian, I was in my element and felt that Malaysia rightfully earned a top spot on my list of paradise-like destinations. The aroma of spices and the sizzle of the hotplates at the night market next to the guesthouse where I stayed was a sensory delight. I was spoilt for choice and couldn't resist trying more than one roti canai, especially since they were inexpensive.

 

9 June - Alor Setar – Penang – 100 km

The ride to Butterworth was relaxed and offered views of scenic rice paddies and beautiful temples and mosques. Once in Butterworth, I boarded a ferry that transported pedestrians, cars, and motorbikes to the island of Penang. A few minutes later, we docked at famous Georgetown.

I discovered a crappy but inexpensive abode with an air-con and window (considered a bargain). The guidebook mentioned that Penang was known as the ‘Pearl of the Orient, and it lived up to its reputation as I saw rickshaws peddling past Chinese shophouses. Georgetown was further renowned for its street food, and countless vendors were selling Malay, Indian, and Chinese cuisine at the numerous stands that lined the town's narrow lanes. Feeling famished, I rushed to the nearest food cart to grab my daily plate of Nasi Goreng.

 

10 June - Georgetown, Penang

Although Georgetown’s centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it remains a working town with Chinese shophouses where people live and work. Rickshaws pedalled tourists around the labyrinth of chaotic streets and cobbled pathways, past British Raj-era architecture, strings of paper lanterns, and retro-chic pubs, boutiques, and cafes. I spent the day searching for famous street art, with a camera in hand, and my efforts were well rewarded. Street art was dotted all over town, and locating it was an enjoyable challenge that took the best part of the day.

 

11 June - Georgetown, Penang

I wasn’t entirely done with all I wanted to see in Georgetown, so I extended my stay by one more day. I explored the narrow alleys, discovered more street art, and came across many interesting sights. My ramble led me past the joss stick maker, the goldsmith, the garland makers and the ever-present food vendors. Through Little India and Little China and past the old clan jetties, I meandered before returning to my abode in Love Lane.

 

12 June - Georgetown – Taman Damai – 55 km

Not in the mood for cycling but not for staying either, I dragged my heels, making my way to the ferry for the return trip to the mainland.

No sooner were we underway, than rain came pelting down. In Southeast Asia, the rain comes in droves, and motorcycles and scooters usually pull over at designated places during such weather. I followed suit and waited until the worst of it passed. Barely a few kilometres further, the heavens opened once more. What can a woman do but find digs and watch the weather from the porch while drinking a tall Tiger?

 

13 June - Taman Damai – Taiping - 44 km

My next stop was Taiping, known for being the wettest town in the region. Even during the driest month of June, the city still receives significant rainfall, with 159 mm of precipitation. As a result, it's almost impossible to pass Taiping without getting soaked. As there was no real reason to stop early, I took some time to explore the city.

When I arrived at the hotel, I was surprised that they allowed me in, as I was dripping water all over their shiny tiles. Unfortunately, the rain never stopped, and I ended up staying at the hotel for the rest of the day, not doing much except eating.

 

14 June - Taiping – Lumut - 95 km

Breakfast was from McDonald’s after which a 95-kilometre ride took me to Lumut, the departure point to Pulau Pangkor. The rain dissipated, and the previous night’s rainfall brought cooler weather. The temperature was around 30°C, and although incredibly humid, biking remained a pleasure. Lumut took me by surprise as it looked good enough to spend a night instead of getting directly onto the ferry to Pangkor Island.

 

15 June – Lumut

First thing in the morning, I went to the mall to do some shopping. Once done, I bought a photography magazine I read at Starbucks while having coffee. It was nice to have a regular day for a change. However, purchasing the magazine was maybe not the best idea, as reading it made me want to buy a new lens.

En route to my abode, I made a quick stop at the Mangrove Park to snap a few pics of the monkeys. While doing so, the buggers stole my water bottle off the bike, which I had thought was tightly secured into its cage! I waved my fist at them but swear I could hear them laughing from the treetops.

 

16 June - Lumut

The reason I was dragging my heels was that I was waiting for my new passport. With no word of the replacement passport, I assumed it best to remain in Malaysia as it was one of the few countries allowing a ninety-day stay. After which all one had to do was cross the border into Singapore and upon returning you were given an additional three months.

Malaysia wasn’t overly expensive, and although not part of the plan, Lumut appeared to be an excellent place to lay low. Staying put was a whole new experience. I was happy in the tropics, and there was nowhere else I would rather wait until the passport arrived.

I liked Lumut as it was situated along the ocean, and was close enough to the larger town of Seri Manjung. Lumut further had various restaurants and bars, as it was the departure point for tourists to Pangkor Island. I searched for a place to rent and was surprised to find a considerable number of options available in such a small village. I treated myself to a lovely studio apartment with a small balcony. The condo was quite spacious for a studio, and the complex came with a massive pool that was all mine to enjoy as it was Ramadan and Malaysia was relatively quiet at the time. The staff was very accommodating and even provided me with a little table and chairs for the balcony. They also took care of my laundry and offered me one of their laptops with a big screen.

 

17–24 June - Lumut

As part of my new routine, I started going for a jog followed by a swim. However, I needed running shoes and swimming goggles. Despite being determined to get running fit, it turned out to be more challenging than I had anticipated. I wasn't sure if I had enough patience to continue with such a slow start.

 

25 June – 5 July - Lumut

Fortunately, I love tropical regions. While returning from the shops, I had a great time dodging monkeys that tried to snatch my shopping. However, renting an apartment for a whole month was a bit excessive. Before even reaching the halfway mark of the month, I was already eager to leave.

Feeling bored, I cycled to Marine Island, hoping to go scuba diving, but the shop was closed. Restless, I headed to the Mall instead, where I pampered myself with a facial and later explored the Rahmat Maritime Museum, a navy battleship that was a fun place to visit.

 

6 July - Lumut

The twin islands of Pangkor and Pangkor Laut are situated three miles offshore. They are home to several fishing villages featuring traditional Malay houses. A round-trip ferry ticket costs only 10MYR, making these islands a popular destination for both backpackers and domestic travellers. I, too, joined the crowds to explore the islands and see what they had to offer.

 

7 July - Lumut - Bangkok

Months after applying for a new passport, the passport saga continued. Only after I made a phone call to the Bangkok Embassy did I learn I had to pay double the original fee as I had lost the passport. Unfortunately, nobody had informed me beforehand about this additional cost. Furthermore, I had to pay this fee at the embassy itself. It's ironic how reality can sometimes be more unbelievable than fiction. I hastily packed a backpack and hopped on a bus to Bangkok.

 

8 July - Bangkok

Twenty-four hours later, the bus arrived in one of my favourite cities. Peachy Guesthouse was my abode of choice in Bangkok as it was cheap as chips. While there, I noticed a familiar-looking pannier by the rubbish bin. I knew the pannier quite well as it belonged to Ernest, an old cycling buddy with whom I had parted ways in the Americas. It seemed that he had stayed at the same guesthouse recently and, like me, his panniers were also falling apart.

 

9 July - Bangkok

First thing in the morning, I caught a water taxi to the Embassy. I’m always thrilled to use city transport, like everyone else. I paid the required fee at the embassy and then trundled around the many malls.

Afterwards, enough time remained to visit the National Museum. To celebrate the 60^th birthday of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the Fine Arts Department hosted a special exhibition, “Feminine Deities: Buddhism, Hinduism And Indigenous Cults In Thailand”. Maybe they weren’t well-liked, as the majority were headless.

 

10–11 July - Bangkok

Staying in Bangkok one more day was easy as I was in no hurry to go anywhere, and Bangkok provided an endless array of exciting events and activities.

By evening, Khao San Road was its usual hive of activity. Situated in the heart of Backpackerville, it’s here where you could be pierced, tattooed and dreadlocked if you wished. You could eat bugs, shop for jewellery and clothes (which I did) and buy fake IDs, driver’s licenses, diving cards and even photographer’s passes (tempting… imagine what one could do with such an ID). By evening, an outdoor cultural show had me transfixed.

The idea of leaving Thailand without watching the national sport is quite inconceivable. Muay Thai is a sport like no other. You can, seemingly, use knees, elbows, shins, hands and feet. It’s an intriguing sport, and the men are well built which is enough reason for me to watch.

Finally, the time came to leave Bangkok and return to Malaysia. This time, I believed it was far nicer to go by train than by bus. I love how the tray tables unfolded when serving food (tablecloth and all) and how they make the beds at night. It reminds me of a long-forgotten era. There’s nothing quite like crawling in and falling asleep to the hypnotic clickety-clack of the wheels on the tracks. I love how the sound steadily increases as the train gets up to speed—pure magic.

 

12–16 July - Lumut

Arriving in Lumut felt like returning home. I smiled at the staff, saying, “Hi, hello. Did you enjoy your holiday?” This is typically followed by, “Have you eaten?” a standard greeting in Malaysia.

 

17 July - Lumut – Sungai Besar - 107 km

Finally, my last day in Lumut arrived, and I was happy to pack up and resume my journey. Cycling the same country twice could be somewhat monotonous but there are always new places to explore and I had no choice but to wait until the new passport arrived.

I pedalled until reaching Sungai Besar, where I found inexpensive accommodation. The evening was enjoyable as people celebrated Eid, marking the end of the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. This celebration, known as Hari Raya Aidilfitri, is a time when countless Malay families wear new clothes in the same hue. Men wear loose shirts with trousers, and women wear full-length blouse and skirt combinations, typically made of silk or silk-like material. I understood that this tradition signified unity.

 

18 July - Sungai Besar – Sekinchan - 25km

Plagued with a stomach bug, I pulled into Sekinchan. I scarcely took any pictures as I had other things on my mind (LOL). The room rates in Sekinchan were more pricey than usual as the Eid festival was in full swing. The festival was a family-and-friends day where people visited family and asked forgiveness for wrongdoings that occurred in the past year. However, most people seemed focused on eating during the festival.

 

19 July - Sekinchan – Klang - 80km

My late departure was due to waiting until the weather cleared and it was late before I pedalled out of Sekinchan. Unfortunately, the drizzle continued for the best part of the day. Still, I didn’t need to run into the bushes like the previous day, and the overcast weather made it comfortable riding. The traffic was hectic but, mercifully, a smaller path ran parallel to the main road.

 

20-21 July - Klang – Taman Pura Prima - 30 km

From Klang, I veered slightly inland to visit Peter Yoong, a fellow cyclist and Warmshower host I met in Thailand while on his Southeast Asia tour a few months earlier. A short and easy ride led south along a separate motorbike lane, complete with road signs.

I soon arrived at Peter’s place, and was greeted by his lovely family. Peter even had a cold beer waiting for me.

The following morning, we visited the market and afterwards Peter baked three pies. Did I pick the right Warmshowers host, or what? By evening, Ivan, a fellow cyclist, arrived. Peter drove us to Kuala Lumpur, allowing us to take pictures of the famous Petronas Twin Towers.

 

22 July - Taman Pura Prima – Lukut - 115 km

Peter suggested taking the coastal route as a shortcut to Port Dickson, and it turned out to be a great idea as it was far quieter and more scenic. The path cut through oil palm plantations until it reached a river where a small ferry carried people across. Once on the opposite bank, a short distance remained to Lukut.

 

23-25 July - Lukut – Malacca - 100 km

A pleasant day led across large rivers and past green and lush swampy areas, precisely what one would expect of Malaysia. My arrival in Malacca was in good time, and I searched for the Warmshowers host. Howard ran a small guesthouse and hostel where cyclists could stay on the rooftop terrace for free.

Howard was incredibly generous and helpful, providing complimentary coffee and tea. The following day, I took my bike to be serviced and explored the streets of old Malacca, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It was easy to stay an extra day. First, I went on a free walking tour and then took my camera to a shop to have it cleaned. On my return, I stumbled upon a bonsai show. Although I don't know much about bonsais, they were absolutely magnificent.

 

26 July - Malacca – Batu Pahat - 88 km

Not a great deal happened during the day, except it started raining, and instead of becoming soaked, I found a place to take cover until it was over.

 

27 July - Batu Pahat – Pontian Kecil - 77 km

During my ride to Pontian Kecil, I made my usual stops to refill my water supply or sample the local food. I initially planned to stay at a Warmshower accommodation, but due to a misunderstanding, I had to find an alternative place to stay. Interestingly, the hotel staff still used an abacus, which made for an intriguing experience. It's incredible how diverse and unique our world can be.

 

28 July - Pontian Kecil – Kota Tinggi - 105 km

I spent the better part of the day riding on busy main roads, which wasn't very pleasant. Unfortunately, I got caught in the rain again, but it didn't last long. When I finally arrived in Kota Tinggi, I had enough of the awful traffic and decided to stop at a hotel. Luckily, there was a food court right next door where I was able to enjoy delicious curry noodle soup.

 

29-30 July - Kota Tinggi – Mersing - 105 km

The route to the East Coast was primarily undulating through oil palm plantations but, overall, it was a comfortable ride. In Mersing, a spot at the famous Embassy Hotel was the best value in town, and I paid for two nights’ accommodation.

The day after, I called the SA Embassy in Bangkok and they revealed that the application was finally on the Home Affairs’ system. I hoped that matters wouldn’t take too long from then on. The rest of the day was spent doing regular rest-day chores.

 

31 July - Mersing – Chalets Kampong Merchong - 96 km

The coastal road eventually led onto Route 3 via Rompin. Sadly, workers were clearing the natural forest to convert it into oil palm plantations. A little beyond that a fire was used to make clearing easier. It's always a sad sight.

My path took me past a massive brick-built aviary, used as a swiftlet and edible bird’s nest farm. At the time, a kilogram of white nests could cost up to US$2,000, and red nests up to US$10,000, making it an extremely lucrative business.

Basic chalets along the river made it an excellent place to spend the night. Sadly, the air was thick with smoke from fires, to such an extent that I secretly planned what to grab when push came to shove. Fortunately, a thunderstorm came to the rescue and calmed things down a tad. Phew, what a relief.

 

1-2 August - Chalets Kampong Merchong – Kuantan - 111 km

Roadside stands sold various exotic cuisine - lemang was a delicacy of sticky rice baked in bamboo. It’s a good thing I take pictures as I sometimes think nothing happened until I look at my photos. Someone once said: Travellers see more than they remember and remember more than they see. I thought it a very true statement.

Kuantan was considerably larger than anticipated, featuring a backpackers' hostel without bicycle storage. So, instead, I settled for a guesthouse. Luckily, the place was opposite the night market, and as I hadn’t eaten all day, I shouldn’t have gone shopping hungry.

I tried to fix the laptop’s touchpad but only broke the entire thing. Therefore, I sought out the computer shop in the morning.

 

3 August - Kuantan – Kerteh - 97 km

I laughed out loud when biking out of Kuantan - the joy of moving on and the freedom it brings can sometimes be overwhelming. I must admit I usually have this feeling on the downhill. LOL. Although several places of interest were sprinkled along the way, I didn’t feel like stopping and biked until reaching Kerteh. Unfortunately, conservative Kerteh didn’t have a considerable number of attractions. Not even beer but a good enough bed could be found, which was all I needed.

 

4-5 August - Kerteh – Kuala Terengganu - 117 km

Once again, a pleasant and easy ride led past plenty of fishing villages and across wide rivers, reminding me that this was indeed the tropics. The Seaview Hotel lacked a sea view but had a ground-floor room to store the bike. Nearby Chinatown made for a relaxing stroll and provided a much-needed meal.

By morning, I handed in my laundry and returned to Chinatown, which offered interesting 3D street art. The paintings were so lifelike that it was hard to tell where the real thing ended and the picture started. The area was fascinating, full of colour and delicious food. Markets were crammed with unfamiliar merchandise and strange smells, making it a fascinating visit.

 

6 August - Kuala Terengganu – Kuala Besut - 109 km

It took the best part of the day to cycle the 109 kilometres to Kuala Besut, as cycling was into a mild headwind. The route was pan flat and hugged the coast. The East Coast was dotted with small islands, the most famous being the Perhentian Islands, which I was heading to.

Once in Kuala Besut, food stalls miraculously appeared, and I had plenty to choose from—it was a good thing, too, as I hadn’t eaten all day and was starving.

 

7-9 August - Kuala Besut – Perhentian Islands - By ferry

In Kuala Besut, the friendly guesthouse owner agreed to store my bicycle while I visited the nearby islands. The ferry stopped at various places, but I got off at Longbeach. The village offered budget accommodation and cheap diving. Oh La La came at a reasonable price and I booked a dive for the following morning and spent the rest of the day snorkelling.

The next day, we took a boat ride to a pinnacle about 20 minutes away. Although the visibility wasn't excellent, the dive was still incredible, with plenty of marine life along the reef. In the evening, I joined other divers for a delicious supper on the beach. The following day, we went on another dive to a cave. The water was so warm that diving without a wetsuit and only a T-shirt was possible. We returned just in time for me to catch the return ferry to the mainland.

 

10 August - Kuala Besut – Kuala Terengganu - 112 km

Some days are stranger than others and this was one of them. Soon after departing a motorbike pulled up next to me and with lightning-fast action, the man reached out and grabbed my boob and then sped off. I let rip with profanities and gave him the middle finger. He highly likely didn’t understand “Jou ma se moer!” Ha, ha, ha.

Later, a friendly chap stopped and offered me a ride to Terengganu. To him, Terengganu was too far to cycle in a day, even though only 50 kilometres remained. I declined his offer, thanked him for his kindness and with my faith in humanity restored, proceeded to Terengganu where my arrival was in good time. I picked up fried noodles and beer in Chinatown and headed to the Seaview Hotel without the sea view.

 

11 August - Kuala Terengganu – Dundun - 94 km

During my ride to Dundun, the route passed numerous roadside stands selling satay-skewered chicken wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on a smoky charcoal grill. At one of the stalls, I realised I was wearing odd shoes, which was quite a feat considering I only had two pairs.

Unfortunately, I spent most of the day riding into a stiff breeze, and midway to Dundun, the rain came gushing down so heavily that I had to take cover. Dundun had several options for accommodation along the beachfront. However, they were all quite expensive and, in the end, I chose the least expensive of the bunch. Big mistake, as it turned out to be the worst place I have stayed at during my time in Malaysia. On days like this, I must remind myself that I’m not buying the place and that I'll be out of there by morning.

 

12-13 August - Dungun – Cherating - 86 km

Cherating was a charming fishing village along the coast. Before direct transport from the highlands to the Perhentian Islands, travellers stopped here to enjoy a bit of R&R. Nowadays, very few travellers stop in Cherating, and the place has a sad air of ghostliness and decline. However, heaps of accommodation with practically no one there made finding bargain rooms easy. Staying the following day was easy, and it was an excellent place to do laundry and lounge about.

 

14 August - Cherating – Pekan - 90 km

Retracing one’s steps is never much fun, but staying in Pekan was intriguing. Not only is this where the Sungai Pahang (the longest river in Peninsular Malaysia) flows into the South China Sea, but the town was further home to rows of traditional Chinese shophouses.

At my abode, I debated where to go once I received my new passport. The monsoon season was on its way, and I was drawn to India where it was about to end. Not having cycled Bangladesh made the country a fascinating option.

 

15 August - Pekan – Rompin - 94 km

An easy day of biking led along the ocean. As requested, I received word from the Embassy in Bangkok informing me my passport was sent to Bangkok instead of Cape Town. The passport was already in the diplomatic bag and would arrive in Bangkok in two days. I was understandably sceptical regarding this info. If that were the case, I could either have it couriered or collect it myself. That’s if the Thai border control would let me in with a nearly full passport.

 

16 August - Rompin – Mersing - 66 km

Mersing was only a short distance away, so I didn’t bother with breakfast before setting out. The coastal route was far more pleasant than the main road, and the ride became one of many coffee stops and grand vistas. In Mersing, settling for the Embassy Hotel was a no-brainer, as rooms came with hot water, air conditioning, and TV.

My laptop finally gave in. Although it still worked, the screen was shaky, and I guessed it was only a matter of time before it packed up entirely.

 

17 August - Mersing – Kluang - 90 km

The ride would’ve been nice if only the road had been slightly wider, and the multitude of trucks didn’t make biking any easier. Instead, the way mainly led through oil palm plantations and partly through a natural forest.

Sadly, I spotted a distressed-looking monkey and noticed her little one was knocked down. The poor mother looked stressed and disorientated, pacing up and down as any human would. How incredibly sad.

 

18 August - Kluang – Muar - 108 km

The 17^th came and went, and still no passport news. Sigh. I assume the passport wasn’t in the diplomatic bag as promised. The route to Muar was uneventful, and once in Muar the town was more significant than I had foreseen.

I had a long chat with the man at the reception desk. What impressed me was that Malaysians generally speak up to six languages: predominantly Malay, English, Cantonese and Mandarin, and various other dialects.

 

19 August - Muar – Port Dickson - 126 km

I pushed on to Port Dickson as I had already cycled this section a few weeks earlier. Once in Port Dickson, I pitched the tent on the beach under trees, a lovely spot with a view over the ocean, where I sat watching the sunset before trundling to a nearby restaurant.

 

20 August - Port Dickson – Puchong - 90 km

No day comes without a few surprises and this morning was no different. I woke to a massive storm and had to lean against the tentpole with all my might to prevent it from breaking or tearing the tent. Rain bucketed down, and I feared I pitched the tent too close to the water’s edge as I could hear the waves crashing ashore. Fortunately, the tide never came quite that high but when the storm subsided, I discovered seafoam inches from the tent. Phew, that was too close for comfort!

Sopping wet, I biked toward Puchong where the plan was to stay at Peter’s place for a few days or at least until my new passport arrived.

 

21-25 August - Puchong

I hardly did anything, apart from chatting with Peter and his family. Another guest, Carolina from Brazil, also stayed there and helped Peter with his garden. Carolina was a lovely, energetic lady who always looked for ways to help. She was part of a wonderful programme called HelpX, which allowed members to stay with locals for free in return for helping them with various tasks.

The days slipped by unnoticed. At last, I have organised for my passport (still in South Africa) to be sent to Malaysia. Then, surprisingly, my laptop returned to life and seemed to work fine.

It turned out to be the Hungry Ghost Festival. In ancient Chinese folk culture, people believed this was a month of ghosts. It’s thought that the gates of hell are thrown open, releasing hungry ghosts to wander the Earth in search of food. During this time, people placed food and paper money outside, and at temples, they burned exquisite paper houses, cars, mobile phones, and even paper shoes, so the spirits didn’t have to go barefoot. These ghosts are believed to be unfortunate souls who committed evil deeds in their former lives, including overeating, drinking, gambling, and smoking. A substantial amount of these items is put out for these sad souls. If that’s indeed the case, I am doomed to become a hungry ghost. LOL.

 

26 August - Puchong

Peter drove us to the nearby Hindu temple. The temple was brand new, and parts were still being painted. Hindu temples are elaborately decorated, and the architecture is simply breathtaking. I understand that artisans were brought in from India.

Although these temples are places of worship, it’s interesting to note that the Hindu Monk, Swami Vivekananda taught that temples are simply means of reaching God, not an end. “Man is to become divine by realising the divine. Idols, temples, churches, or books are only supports.” ― Swami Vivekananda.

 

27 August - Puchong

Peter and I set out in search of the alleged haunted house of Puchong. The home is located on a hill in the suburb of Taman Tenaga. The story goes that the house was once owned by a wealthy Chinese businessman who went bankrupt. He and his entire family committed suicide but various versions of the story did the rounds. Others say they were murdered by an unknown psychopath killer living in the house’s walls. The place was left to go to ruins in fear of the souls living there.

I read that Bomohs (Malaysian witch doctors) use the house to practice their rituals. Stories of Pontianaks (female vampire ghosts) taking up residence in the place were popular. Reports tell of people seeing lights turning on and off, even though power and water have been cut off for years. As could be expected, people heard screams of children and, of course, saw shadowy figures. We found the place but no ghosts; only thousands of pursuing mosquitoes, which one could easily have thought possessed. Needless to say, we made our way out of there in a hurry.

 

28 August – 2 September - Puchong

Finally, my passport arrived, and I was happy to move along. The question remained where to go. India and Bangladesh were my first choices. Applying for visas in Kuala Lumpur made sense, seeing I was already there. However, being a weekend, and the following Monday a holiday, it was Tuesday before I went to the Bangladesh Embassy. Peter drove me to the city only to find the Embassy only issued visas to Malays. Hence, I decided to cycle north to Bangkok and apply for an Indian visa there.

 

3 September - Puchong – Sekinchan - 110 km

Although sad to leave Peter and his family, I was happy to get underway. Peter suggested a smaller path along the coast, which was great for cycling and far better than the main road. This was my kind of riding - a quiet path along the beach with only a few monkeys and the odd monitor lizard.

 

4 September - Sekinchan – Sitiawan - 127 km

Breakfast was roti canai, but barely 10 kilometres further, I had to make a Gaviscon stop. Chillies, which I should’ve known by then, wasn’t such a good idea first thing in the morning. Later, I returned to the tiny coastal path of the previous day and proceeded past small fishing hamlets and lovely-looking resorts with cabins on stilts over the water. My path weaved its way through palm plantations until reaching a river that mercifully had a ferry to take me across.

The smoke haze wasn’t improving, but instead worsened. According to newspapers, the causes of the fog were forest burning, smoke from factories, vehicle emissions, and open burning. The pollution surely can’t be healthy. Nevertheless, nothing of interest happened after crossing the river, and I pushed on to Sitiawan.

 

5 September - Sitiawan – Taiping - 90 km

Although it was drizzling, it never rained awfully hard, so I continued until I reached Taiping shortly past midday. Skipping breakfast left me starving, so I went hunting for food almost immediately.

The Taiping Zoo was open at night and made a great place to explore after sunset. The zoo was dimly lit, resembling a full moon. I thought it quite magical wandering about listening to the sounds of the night and smelling the damp forest. Much grunting, stomping and chewing could be heard. While wondering what I would do if a crocodile suddenly jumped at me, a deer bounced out from behind a bush, giving me the fright of my life!

 

6 September - Taiping – Penang - 101 km

A quick breakfast and I was on my way—although slightly further, minor paths made a far more pleasant ride. Malaysia is exceptionally modern, and one can easily forget how tropical the country is. The way crossed numerous rivers, all jam-packed with fishing boats of all shapes and sizes. Finally, it spat me out in Butterworth, where I boarded the ferry to Penang. Although there was a bridge, the ferry was extremely popular with cars and motorbikes.

I felt privileged to return to Penang with its historic district and an immense variety of street food and street art. I searched for a visa agent as only a two-week stay was typically granted at Thailand land borders. One can, nonetheless, easily obtain a three-month visa beforehand but it comes at the cost of RM150. As I planned on applying for an Indian and Bangladesh visa in Bangkok, I opted for the three-month option.

Loads of places offered visa services, and I handed my passport to them to do what was necessary.

 

7 September - Penang

As the visa took a day or two, I had a relaxing day. Finally, I started a new blog as I couldn’t access the old one even though I knew the password, email and username. The problem being I no longer had access to the phone number provided many moons ago—what a load of crap!

I finally gave up trying. The new blog kept me busy, as the last update was way back in the Philippines in 2013. In fact, it took another seven years before I could delete the old blog!

 

8 September - Penang

Working on the blog occupied me as I desperately wanted to finish it before departing Malaysia. At around midday, I collected my passport and then updated the blog. A saunter around town revealed the town buzzing with the Hungry Ghost Festival. The festival lasted roughly two weeks and occurred during June/July (Chinese calendar).

Not all areas celebrate the festival simultaneously—in some places festivities were already finished, while others had just started. In Penang, giant joss sticks were burning, food stands were everywhere, and live performances created a festive atmosphere.

 

9 September - Penang

I emerged to pouring rain and waited a while, but the rain never subsided. In the meantime, I met fascinating people at the Love Lane Inn hostel. At least five of them were travelling by motorbike. A French guy was travelling on an Australian “Postie”, an Indian chap was on a motorbike, and so was the French couple. The Australian travelled using local motorbikes, buying and selling them as he went along. Taking them across borders was far too costly. I thus stayed and had a couple of beers with the other travellers.

 

10 September - Penang – Guran - 110 km

I finally departed via a secondary path, and though it drizzled on and off all day, it wasn’t too terrible. Sadly, once in Pantai Merdeka, the ferry across the river was nowhere to be seen. Even after asking around, I couldn’t locate anyone to take me across, so I returned to the main road and onto Guran, which had digs and food.

 

11 September - Guran, Malaysia – Sadao Border Post, Thailand - 105 km

It turned out to be a good day of biking, the rain was gone and the sky was blue. A small path ran flush along the main road, making pedalling easy. The rain of the previous two days made for flooded rice paddies and fresh air, and the countryside looked lush and green as my route headed to the border.

The border crossing into Thailand was surprisingly troublesome. First, I now had two passports (the old one and the new one), and second, you had to produce cash as well as a return ticket. So, off I went to the bank to draw money, which satisfied the officer. After explaining I was travelling by bicycle, they mercifully didn’t insist on a ticket out of the country. By then, it was already relatively late, and I overnighted in Sadao.