175 Cycle Touring Malaysia
1
January 2025 –11 January 2025
693
Kilometres – 11 Days
PHOTOS
1
January – Padang Besar – Alor Setar – 98 km
I
woke determined to visit Langkawi since I hadn’t been there in years! So, I set
off on a beautiful, clear morning, heading to Kuala Perlis, the launching point
for ferries to Langkawi. The ride turned out to be fantastic. The scenery
looked straight out of a tourist brochure, and the traffic was light. Although
the distance was only about 45 km, I was somewhat taken aback by the endless
row of vehicles waiting to board the ferry.
Still,
I made my way to the ticket office, only to be informed that I needed customs
clearance for my bicycle! Can you believe it? It seems that crossing borders by
bicycle is generally hassle-free, but customs clearance is required to go to
Langkawi. This sounded like too much trouble, so I turned around and headed
along the coast to Alor Setar.
It
turned out to be another excellent ride on a country road beside the coast. I
had the ocean to my right and the bright green rice paddies (dotted with
buildings for swiftlet farming) to my left. The lighting was beautiful, and I
couldn't have asked for a better ride. Once I arrived in Alor Setar, I headed
to the Comfort Motel, probably the cheapest accommodation in town. The place
has been around forever and is as basic as you can expect for 50 Ringgit.
Still, the elderly owners (LOL, they are most likely younger than me) were
super friendly, and the accommodation came with air conditioning, a shower, and
ground-floor rooms where I could wheel my wagon right into the room. LOL.
The
official language is Malay, also known as Bahasa Malaysia, but due to its
multicultural population, an array of other languages is spoken nationwide. I’m
learning my Bahasa Malay from the road signs, LOL.
2
January - Alor Setar - George Town. Penang – 103 km
Alor
Setar is far more dynamic than I recalled from my previous visits and I
couldn’t resist snapping one more picture of the stunning Zahir Mosque, with
its Moorish-inspired architecture.
No
sooner had I left, I found myself on a tranquil canal path that wound through
lush rice fields. Being situated only 5.5 degrees north of the equator, the
warm sun beat down upon me, and I was soon drenched in sweat. Yet, amid the
heat, I felt like the luckiest person on the planet as I cycled through
charming settlements. Here, friendly, burka-clad women offered an array of
delectable homemade snacks.
I
know I keep harping on about the scenery, but the Malaysian countryside is
simply breathtaking. Each twist and turn revealed distant hills draped in lush
greenery and bright green rice paddies against a clear blue sky. I hummed along
to my music, lost in the moment, as I made my way toward Butterworth.
At
Tanjong Dawai, a ferry carried me and my bike across the sprawling Merbok
River. The ride came with a hefty fee, but it saved a long detour along the
main road and was worth every ringgit.
I
stopped numerous times to take pictures or admire the scenery, and it was
already late by the time I arrived at the ferry terminal in Butterworth. The
new terminal was quite a rigmarole and more cumbersome than its predecessor.
Eventually, I secured a ticket and boarded the ferry to Georgetown on Penang
Island.
Cycling
into the famous George Town felt like a homecoming so I headed straight to
Hotel Noble. This establishment has been around for decades and is undoubtedly
the most budget-friendly accommodation available.
I
barely had time to unload my panniers before I dashed off to the famous food
stalls, my stomach growling in protest for having gone without food all day.
I’ll explore in the morning.
Penang
didn’t appear historic from the ferry, as high-rise buildings dominated the
skyline. However, my short walk to the ATM revealed just how Georgetown has
earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With Penang's central
location in the Strait of Malacca, the island was an essential stopover along
the ancient trade route connecting Europe, the Middle East, India, and China.
Since the Strait of Malacca lies at the intersection of two monsoon seasons,
ships couldn’t set sail until the winds were favourable. Consequently, Penang
became a diverse melting pot of cultures, a diversity that remains evident to
this day.
It
was blisteringly hot, and I didn’t do much exploring. Most of my day was spent
at the Clan Jetties, which were established over 100 years ago. The Clan
Jetties are historic Chinese villages built over the water on long jetties.
Typically, each jetty belongs to a single family clan, with dozens of wooden
houses on each one.
Today,
I had the pleasure of meeting Connie Chew, a friend I know through social
media. Although we've never met in person, we have closely followed each
other's travels around the world for the past 10 years. I can't imagine two
people more different from each other, and I genuinely appreciate social media
for making these connections possible.
Connie
is a fermentation specialist known for her expertise in fermentation science,
particularly in food and beverage production. She has an in-depth understanding
of the microbiological processes involved in fermentation, which are essential
for producing various products, including dairy, alcoholic beverages, and other
fermented foods.
Connie
is also dedicated to educating others about fermentation techniques and may be
involved in developing sustainable fermentation methods. Her work contributes
to the broader movement of using fermentation for culinary purposes and
innovative applications related to health and environmental sustainability.
We
spent the entire day being driven around by her lovely son, Mark, to sample
Penang's famous delicacies—quite different from my usual fare! During the day,
I had the opportunity to enjoy a delicious, iced coffee and tea mix. I never
imagined such a concoction could taste so good! Just as delightful was the
humble coconut roti. Thank you, Connie and Mark, for a wonderful day!
6
January – George Town, Penang – Bagan Serai - 98km
The
time was 10 o'clock when I cycled onto the ferry for the short trip to the
mainland. What I expected to be a quick ride turned into a whole-day affair as
I was determined to avoid toll roads and highways. Malaysia is developing at an
alarming rate, and I tried various routes to steer clear of traffic.
Eventually, I found myself on a coastal road that offered pleasant cycling
conditions.
When
the weather started looking threatening, I looked for a hotel, but the only one
nearby was expensive. Rather than cycling 40 kilometres to Taiping, I decided
to head back to the main road, which had more accommodation options. The only
hotel that offered a somewhat reasonable rate was still pricey and situated
near a mosque. It was thus no surprise that it seemed to cater only to Muslims.
Although almost all hotels come with a prayer mat and a Qibla indicator, this
one had a list of what not to do as long as my arm. LOL
7
January – Bagan Serai – Taiping – 37 km
Malaysia’s
hour-long time difference keeps me awake until 1 a.m. It also means it doesn't
get light until well past 7.30 a.m. If it weren’t for other guests stirring, I
would probably sleep even later. This morning was no different; by the time I
woke up, it was still raining, and I reluctantly started loading my bike.
As
the rain eased, a beautiful, fresh morning emerged, and I set off through the
rice fields. It turned out to be a fantastic day of riding with stunning
scenery. Malaysia's landscapes away from the cities and highways are truly
remarkable. I soon arrived in Taiping, where I decided to book a room as I
received some documents that needed signing, which meant I needed access to a
printer and scanner. Unfortunately, my chosen accommodation was a
disappointment. All I'll say is that I will NEVER use OYO accommodations again.
8
January – Taiping – Lumut – 93 km
I
might be getting used to the time difference, or perhaps it was due to the
lumpy mattress, but I found myself awake at 6 o'clock. It was still dark
because, theoretically, it was winter, and the sun didn’t rise until about
7:30. I lingered around for a while, and it was nearly 9 before I finally set
out. Not much happened during the ride; I spent most of the day on a proper
road. Although it was a secondary road, it was relatively busy with trucks.
My
route took me through dense oil palm plantations, lush with ferns and mosses. I
didn’t stop often since there wasn't much to explore. As I approached Lumut, I
crossed the Sungai Munjung, which appears as an inlet from the Strait of
Malacca. This area is home to Lumut Port and the Industrial Park, which
provides space for warehousing and transhipment; it's no surprise that the road
was so busy with trucks.
I
was pleased to see that the region also contains a large and protected mangrove
area as mangroves are so essential to coastal ecosystems. Their roots play a
crucial role in coastal protection, acting as a buffer against storm surges and
providing unique habitats for various species. I often forget just how good
mangroves are at capturing and storing carbon.
9
January - Lumut – Sungai Besar – 121 km
From
the beginning, I was on one-lane county roads. The road was quiet, and I hardly
ever saw anyone. Once along the coast, I stopped to fill up with water and also
had a portion of nasi lemak, folded up in a triangular parcel. It consisted of
rice, peanuts, a boiled egg, and a fiery sauce with tiny fish, no more than a
centimetre or two. It took me forever to scoop out these tiny fishes. I ate my
food while watching fishermen on a boat chasing a school of fish into their
net, or at least that is what I thought they did.
Malaysia
experiences a tropical rainforest climate with high rainfall throughout the
year. I understand that average annual rainfall typically ranges from 1000 mm
to 2500 mm per annum. Some regions, especially the east coast of Peninsular
Malaysia and certain highland areas in Borneo, get even more rain. The
country’s unique position near the equator means there isn’t a real dry season,
and it can rain almost any time. Most of my day was thus spent cycling through
rice fields and oil palm plantations. Malaysia is the world’s second-largest
palm oil producer after Indonesia.
Towards
the end of the day, I crossed the mighty Perak River or Sungai Perak. It is the
second-longest river in Peninsular Malaysia after the Pahang River. Its source
lies near the Thailand-Malaysia border.
10
January – Sungai Besar – Kaula Selangor – 64 km
Shortly
after leaving, I stopped at a roadside vendor to enjoy my daily portion of roti
canai, which was delicious. I continued to find rural roads leading me past
rice fields ready for harvest. It was easy cycling, and I rolled into Kuala
Selangor early, as the distance was only about 60 km.
After
arriving, I took a short walk up the historic hill of Bukit Melawati, where I
encountered monkeys, cannons, and various interesting artefacts. Bukit Melawati
once served as the administrative centre and stronghold of the Selangor
Sultanate in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The hill features remnants
of a heavily fortified fort built between 1782 and 1826. This fort fell to the
Dutch in 1784, but it is historically significant that it was the first time a
sultan managed to recapture a fort from a foreign power.
11
January - Kaula Selangor – Puchong, Kuala Lumper – 77 km
I
woke not feeling bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and finding a tick in my bed
didn't help. Sometimes, I think I'm just too stingy! But then it's highly
likely I brought the tick there after my meander in the little Nature Park, and
I hoped I wouldn't succumb to tick-bite fervour.
The
ride into a big city is seldom scenic, and I tried my utmost to stay on a
smaller road. Unfortunately, the more minor roads were narrow and busy with
trucks and buses. I was relieved to arrive at my friend, Peter. Peter is a
popular WarmShower host, and I’ve known him for the past 10 years. I was
surprised that I had a lovely flatlet to sleep in, and the fridge was stocked
with beer. Peter, you are the best!
The
next day, I did virtually nothing, just chilling in my very comfortable room. By
then, the bite under my arm was a large, red, blistery area, and although I
didn’t feel sick, I was somewhat lethargic.
I
hung about at Peter’s, waiting for documents that needed to be verified at the
embassy.
13
January - Puchong
I've finally decided to fly to
India and have a few things to prepare before my flight. Peter kindly provided
me with a bike box.
The following morning, we had breakfast
at a nearby food court, where I enjoyed the most delicious Kari Laksa which
became my go-to breakfast. Later, Gan, Peter's friend and a social media
friend, dropped by, and we shared a few beers and stories as we were all cycle
tourers.
The following morning, I slept
in because Saras, a lady I met five years ago in Kuala Selangor, came to visit.
We had lunch together, and I felt embarrassed since I didn’t think I’d paid for
a single meal since my arrival at Peter's place. I feel like I should be the
one paying, given that I’m staying free of charge.
Peter
planned to go camping at Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam. I
spent the following night at Saras’s place, celebrating the start of Pongal,
the harvest festival. In the kitchen, she prepared a traditional Pongal meal of
sour and sweet rice before donning a salwar kameez for our visit to the temple.
The
bite under my arm spread across my chest and back, and I thought seeing a
doctor before our planned camping trip would be better. At the clinic, I
learned that it wasn’t a bite but shingles! Have you ever? Peter picked us up
at around 10, and we drove to Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam. Peter prepared a feast, and
the weather was great.
Returning
to Peters, I was in agony, and I stocked up on painkillers after another visit
to the clinic, where they prescribed ani-viral tablets and cream. I also
stocked up on two different types of painkillers as I was determined to kill
this virus.
16
January – Puchong
The
much-awaited documents arrived, and I ventured into the city centre.
Unfortunately, my day at the embassy was unsuccessful, and back home, I
discovered the most crucial document wasn't signed! To top off an already bad
day, three of my attempts to draw money were declined, but still, the money was
deducted from my account. Thanks to my host, Peter, I have a very comfortable
place to stay, and after transferring money into his account, I now have cash.
All made possible by the Wise app.
I planned on
repeating the embassy process by Monday, hopefully with more success.
20
January - Puchong
My
second visit to the embassy was more successful, but unfortunately, the bank
wasn’t. After speaking to customer care, I was told there was nothing they
could do to unlock the account, and I had to visit a Bangkok Bank in Thailand.
22 January
– Kuala Lumper, Malaysia – Jomtien, Thailand
Although
my flight to Bangkok was only at 12h00, I was up early to pack my panniers,
which I left at Peter’s place. Later, he drove me to Putrajaya station, where I
could catch the KLIA line to the Airport. It's all so easy (except the banking
of cause). My short flight to Bangkok was uneventful as in such a confined
space, everyone pretended they didn’t see anyone. It’s what we do when people
move into our personal space. Bangkok Airport was busy, and the buses to
Pattaya were fully booked, so it took some time before I was seated on the bus
to Jomtien. Once there, I walked the two or three km back to my room as I
needed the exercise.
Shortly
before reaching my emergency bunker, I met my neighbours, Peet and Charmy, and
we had a few beers before I stumbled home. I took two painkillers before going
to bed and slept like a baby.
23 January
– Jomtien
First
thing, I was at the bank to change my bank card. This little excursion took the
best part of the morning, and when I returned, I found I couldn’t get into the
Banking app. That will have to wait for tomorrow. Even this will end!
24 January
– Jomtien
I
got word from Dawn that she would arrive on 31 January for a two-week holiday,
and I was happy to have company.
After
two weeks, my shingles were still bothering me, on top of which I contracted a
bad chest infection, which was doing the rounds in Thailand. This was not going
my way.
12
February - Thailand – Malaysia
As
Dawn was returning to Australia on the 12th, I booked a flight to
Malaysia to collect my bicycle and bags, as I was in no condition to cycle. I
returned to Thailand on 15 February, hoping I would soon feel better, but until
then, I planned on laying low and waiting for the shingles and chest infection
to clear.
