174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)
KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM
PHOTOS
MAP
20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km
I had a slow start this morning. Every
task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day.
However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange
and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the
Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the
immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and
lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite
hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it
was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of
settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly
realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky
darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I
knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy.
However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a
nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the
bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I
spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the
owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room
was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite
colourful. 🤣🤣🤣
21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km
Even though this is usually a pleasant
ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but I knew it had to be done.
Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking
easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older
temples. I love these country lanes. I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few
raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan
Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily
paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to
the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it was virtually impossible
to find vegetarian food.
22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong -
115km
I didn't want to be back to Thailand
and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my
non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of
Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and
it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I
reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong,
where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation
in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been
here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.
23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya
– 70 km
Instead of taking my usual coastal
route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived
hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had
forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for
a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent
shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out
the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the
Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.
24 October – Jomtien
I did nothing productive all day
except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across
the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in
a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late
afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the
sand, scolding myself for feeling restless when I should be grateful for the
opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia
through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.
174 Thailand (23.1)4 December – 31 December 20241300 Kilometres – 24 Days
4 December – Jomtien
It's hard to fathom that I've spent
over a month in Jomtien! Something else cropped up whenever I thought I was
ready to move on. My bike had just undergone a thorough service, with brand new
components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water
bottle. Finally, I was ready to roll, but when I reached for the pump, I found it
was completely nonfunctional.
My panniers, already packed, stood
ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike
shop, only to discover they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me
they would check their warehouse and get back to me by Friday.
In the meantime, I decided it might be
wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs
for a few days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers.
Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing by Monday. If the
pump hadn't appeared by then, I would had to improvise and make do without it.
Adventure awaits!
7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri -
70km
I was mighty surprised when the
bicycle pump arrived much earlier than expected. With a sense of urgency, I
hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied up my room in preparation for the
ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien, eager to get
going.
As I pedalled away, I quickly found
myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short
distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride
was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness.
Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was
relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.
To my dismay, I noticed that room
prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the weekend tourist influx.
After some searching, I finally secured a modest $12 room, which I found entirely
satisfactory. It was a convenient ground-floor motel-style accommodation,
allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the
mattress—it sure was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay
for.
8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan
– 86 km
It dawned windy and overcast, casting
a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly,
I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10. The first leg of my ride was a
delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane
along a road built over the ocean.
However, the tranquillity soon faded
as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less
congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially
with construction work disrupting the flow.
Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf
of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the
way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon
reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled
enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodations proved
fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option than I typically
preferred.
Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I
nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time,
dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming
assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far
more than one person could reasonably devour.
9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram
– 86 km
In a desperate bid to avoid the
notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a
ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with
the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in getting the bicycle on
and off the ferry. Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through
a maze of small paths, leading me to detour to a dolphin-watching area, hoping
to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained
hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through
the air.
Eventually, I landed on the service
road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a
tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.
This region of Thailand is like a vast
floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake
through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here,
flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the
community and its culture. Fascinating.
The following day was spent relaxing.
I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the
necessary housekeeping.
11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am
– 100 km
I woke energetic. I am sure it was due
to all I ate the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night
food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a
rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to the scenic route
heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove
area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.
For once, I met another lady cyclist
who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to
escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued
at our own pace.
With a stiff breeze, I flew right past
Phetchaburi, where I thought I would overnight to investigate the nearby caves.
The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt
farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds on their migration south,
and I kept a beady eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper but didn’t see
many birds that day.
Most of the way was on a cycle path or
a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30. I didn’t
wait for the night market as I was starving and thus grabbed a bit to eat from
one of the street vendors.
12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km
The route along this coast must be one
of my favourite rides, as it is stunning. Add a stiff tailwind; I found myself
grinning from ear to ear. I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and
followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off
the beautiful Pranburi and south to Sam Roi Yot before entering Khao Sam Roi
Yot National Park. This lovely park is known for its many beautiful caves and
beaches, but I headed straight for Sam Phraya Beach to camp. Initially, it was
a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby
shop about 3 km away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear
friend Esther Burns will say.
Walking along the deserted beach made
me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water,
a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy
as the proverbial pig.
I thought I was the only one staying there,
but the restaurant was open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.
13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping
– Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km
I woke to a slight drizzle and
hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once on my way, the
drizzle intensified, which I did not appreciate. I stepped on the pedals and
gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 km away, where I came to a
screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay. Staying at Maggie's is always interesting
for the people who stay there, and this time it was no different. UK John has
been there for over a year, and USA Mike has relocated here from Indonesia and
seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on
Sumatra Island, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.
I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s
sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening
chatting to the other guests.
I did absolutely zilch the next day
except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in
months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.
15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan
-102km
I nearly stayed an extra day at
Maggie's, as almost everyone ended up extending their stay there. However, with
the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of
the favourable conditions and hit the road.
As I left Prachuap, the sea was even
more turbulent than the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade
and onto the road. Because of this, I chose not to take that route and opted
for the second road away from the beach.
With the wind at my back, I sped down
the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national
park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A
local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited.
I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him
still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go
ahead. Reaching the park's end, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and
he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me
rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to
Bang Krut.
In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot
out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from
Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often
meet wonderful people during my travels.
I continued cycling until I reached
Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree
had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers, which closed the campsite.
As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.
16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen
Beach – 110 km
When I left Bang Saphan, it was
already late in the day. With a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my
journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I
mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming
fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes
that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations. As the wind
picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me
across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and by the ever-present
Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at
the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In
fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a
few urgent matters.
Ultimately, I realised it was better
to relocate to Chumphon town since all the necessary facilities are in the centre.
Once in Chumphon I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days.
Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist
to make me a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and take a bus back
to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I
decided to stay three more days instead. There really isn’t much to do in
Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A
motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and
I learned to say “Law-tis” instead of Lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi
driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it
wrong.
23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman
Bangalow – 84 km
At last, I left Chumphon even though
there was no word of the retainer I ordered from the dentist. I was peed off,
to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I
slowly made my way further south. The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy
as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past
more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the
ocean; other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure. When I
spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist this basic
accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt
somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered
with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy northeasterly winds. Later, I
cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and watched the waves.
24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows –
Surat Thani – 123 km
It was already late when I pedalled
out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in
such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this
delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I
was grateful for the opportunity to live this life. With all my stopping, it
was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to
the well-known My Place Hotel as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the
cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I
didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the 4th floor.
I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani,
a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and
gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, other temple paraphernalia,
or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.
26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala –
107 km
At first, I considered following the
coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland
and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find
the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the
ride much easier.
The most enjoyable moment was meeting
a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few
months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main
road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling together.
Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just
then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the
main road, I decided to call it a day.
27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si
Thammarat – 27 km
I left my humble abode on a wet and
grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, although it
occasionally poured down in bucketloads. I remembered Valentine, the Russian
gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy
rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it would be best to find a
place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently
throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.
There isn’t much to do in Si
Thammarat, but I walked to see the remaining sections of the old city wall.
This led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and through
Sanam Na Muang Park. Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art
of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the
red finger represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally,
I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still
very much alive in Thailand. Rain or no rain, I plan to move on the next day.
28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn
Resort – 93 km
As soon as I left, I found myself on
my usual route through the coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent
rain, I still enjoyed biking along this stretch. My chosen path eventually led
me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually
amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable
as on previous days, the ride remained easy, and the weather cleared around
midday.
Around four o'clock, however, the
weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the
Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track by the ocean. The prices were
higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further.
The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady
offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go
ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!
29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla
– 84 km
Early in the morning, the wind was
already strong, making the sea even angrier than it had been the day before. At
first, I considered following the coast, but the crosswind was too unpleasant,
so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop
often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't
that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How
spoiled I've become!
Still, I found a surprising amount of
history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I
got closer to Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and
fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch Cemetery. It seems the Dutch
were also here under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards,
I discovered a ferry operating across Songkhla Lake's opening, saving me 10 to
15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.
Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking
hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was in
the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large
groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only
foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a
history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement
that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.
I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly
wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the
supermarket, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found
most interesting was how busy the mall was; I thought I was the only foreigner
there, which attracted quite a few stares. Although Thailand celebrates the
Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or
Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting
distance of Malaysia, so a strong Malay culture is prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate
the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the
supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the
brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay
kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in
Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.
31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar
– 85 km
As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun
was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in
the old town and continuing along Lake Songkla's shores. I passed the large
city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via
secondary roads. I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for
the night in Thailand, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However,
whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I
can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.
Today was no different from any other
day. Before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I
hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be
bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing!
Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and later into Malaysia.
Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian Ringgit is stronger than the Thai Baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 Ringgit per USD, while the Thai Baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia. However, I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already after 4 o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few meters could make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was abundant food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold me beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!
