161 CYCLE TOURING NAMIBIA (2) - PART 2

                                                 Shenanigans on a bike - By Leana Niemand

NAMIBIA (2) – Part 2

1 490 Kilometres - 21 Days 

PHOTOS

 

23 March – Windhoek – Okahandja – 72 km

Following a leisurely start, Linda and I cycled out of Windhoek. Our first day of riding was a pleasant affair as it felt downhill, and a slight tailwind assisted us. Most of the way was along a highway sporting a wide shoulder and thus easy riding.

This northern part of Namibia seemed lusher and greener than further south. As a result, we encountered more traffic as well as villages. However, the most surprising was the enormous termite mounds and the massive mushrooms along the side of the road. Known as Omajowa, these mushrooms grow at the base of termite mounds in Namibia’s central and northern parts.

Even more fascinating is the tops of the termite mounds all seem to point north. Almost everyone, it seems, has a theory of why the mounds indicate north. “Prevailing winds” is a popular one. “Magnetic fields” is another. Still, just how these mounds point so insistently to the north remains unclear.

Our overnight accommodation was at a campsite in comfortable and reasonably priced bungalows. Good thing too, as the north wind picked up, resulting in rain showers, and we were happy we didn’t opt to camp.

 

24 March – Okahandja – Wewelsburg Camping – 92 km

The cold and rainy weather came as a surprise and made riding to Wewelsburg camping miserable. Unfortunately, my skimpy clothes were ill-suited for this weather, and with teeth chattering we sped down the road, hardly stopping. If it weren’t for my sister, who threw in a 20-year-old rain jacket, I would’ve frozen my non-existing backside off.

Our urgent pace made for an early arrival in Wewelsburg, where we found a lovely farm campsite sporting a massive dog, peacocks, goats, and cattle. The owners fired up the “donkey”, providing a hot shower. Amanda and I chose the old bus, and Linda preferred to pitch her tent, a wise decision. Due to the freezing weather, we all turned in early.

 

25/26 March – Wewelsburg camping – Otjiwarongo – 90 km

We woke to thick fog but, on leaving, the visibility improved and the weather a great deal better than the previous day. Still, I was cold as my clothes were still wet.

The ride was unremarkable and the landscape unchanged as we edged closer to the Caprivi. Our sole excitement was spotting more gigantic mushrooms and a traffic officer who stopped to hand us high visibility belts. How very kind of him.

On reaching Otjiwarongo, Amanda had already located a self-catering guesthouse at a fraction of the price other, more popular, places charged. Thanks, Amanda, you’re a star!

Seeing it was only Linda’s third day (two were long ones), Otjiwarongo made for a day of rest. We did little apart from shop for food and beer and lazed about in our lovely guesthouse.

 

27 March – Otjiwarongo – Otavi – 123 km

The stretch north of Otjiwarongo is a long and lonely road. Truly little happened during the day but, strangely enough, the ride was lovely and relaxed, in perfect cycling weather. I love days like this when the way stretches miles ahead, and one gets into a comfortable rhythm with only the sound of your wheels on the tarmac.

My friend handled the distance easily, and we ambled along until reaching Otavi, where Amanda found a room at a rest camp sporting a tiny swimming pool. We sat around the pool, feet dangling in the cool water while sipping a cold Windhoek draught. A perfect end to a good day of cycling.

 

28/29 March – Otavi – Tsumeb – 65 km

A stiff breeze slowed our pace. Fortunately, riding was easy. The scenery was considerably different from the previous days, and it appeared the more north we ventured, the lusher and greener the landscape.

Our short distance made for an early arrival in Tsumeb, which I’ve heard of numerous times but never visited. Amanda again found inexpensive digs, and I’ll miss her when she returns home on Wednesday.

Our main reason for parking off at Tsumeb was to explore the Etosha National Park. Linda arranged a day tour while Amanda and I did a self-drive through the park as it was more economical. I was happy I had this option as Ethosa is a mind-blowing experience. I was in awe of all I saw as the summer rains brought abundant food and water. I never expected to see such a large amount and variety of wildlife. I consequently had a permanent grin as we drove and snapped gazillion pictures.

 

30 March -Tsumeb – Grootfontein (via Hoba Meteorite) – 111 km

We waved Amanda goodbye and slowly gathered our belongings, wondering if all would fit into our panniers. Mercifully, riding was effortless, and we arrived at the turn-off to Grootfontein early. I opted to investigate the Hoba meteorite and Linda headed into town. The Hoba meteorite (although not spectacular) is the largest single meteorite globally and weighs 60 tonnes; quite a weight for such a small stone! It’s estimated the meteorite landed on this globe about 80 000 million years ago. Being the sole person there, I sat staring at it, eating my jelly sweets and wondered what people made of it 80 million years ago!

On my return, I found Linda uncovered lovely overnight accommodation. I didn’t believe my share of the rate was a mere 200 N$. Thanks, Linda. I know you sponsored me! Later, our host served gin and tonic; we couldn’t believe our luck. How kind of him. Our evening meal at the Kitchen Cafe was equally delicious. We sat in their garden until late, chatting and discussing where to go in the morning.

 

31 March - Grootfontein – Roy’s Camp – 60 km

Our leisurely departure was due to the short distance. The way north was uneventful but made for effortless riding and the kilometres flew by. As a result we reached Roy’s Camp early. The camp offered easy camping, a bar and a restaurant. The short four-kilometre bush walk was enjoyable even though we saw no animals. By evening, the staff lit a fire, and we sat drinking wine and chatting with other campers.

 

1 April – Roy’s Camp – Mururani Camp – 72 km

“Come have a look”, Linda whispered, pointing towards the tiny dik-diks in camp. They were no more than 30-40 centimetres high and couldn’t weigh much more than 3 or 4 kilograms—a great way to greet the day.

Again, leaving was past nine as the distance to Mururani Camp was a comfortable 70 kilometres. The slight headwind was a blessing in disguise as it kept us cool and kept the flies at bay. Still, butterflies abounded.

Mururani Camp had a shop on the main road providing cheap beers and snacks. Camping was a laidback affair on a lush lawn and offered the benefit of a large lapa to cook and hang out the rest of the afternoon.

 

2/3 April - Mururani Rest Camp – Rundu – 137 km

It was a long ride to Rundu, but we stuck to the task at hand. Once in Rundu I opted for the Backpackers and Linda for a slightly more upmarket guesthouse.

 

4 April – Rundu – Mukuku Rest Camp – 77 km

Seeing most shops are closed on a Sunday in Namibia, not a great deal got done, and I, therefore, proceeded to the shop first thing Monday morning. Unfortunately, Linda also had trouble drawing money. It was almost 11 o’clock before we made our way through the potholes and muddy puddles out of Rundu.

Not a considerable amount happened during the day. Still, riding through a rural area where traditional huts abounded was pleasant. It’s an area where people live simple lives; kids walk to schools consisting of no more than tin shacks.

At Mukuku Rest Camp, we chatted to the owner, who offered to take us on a boat ride along the Okovango River. What an immense privilege to experience this river at sunset as the many birds settled in the treetops.

 

5 April - Mukuku Rest Camp – Camp Ndurukoro – 111 km

Linda and I thanked Hans, the owner, and walked our bikes along the sandy path to the dirt road. At least the dirt road was in good condition and made reaching the paved road easy.

 

6 April - Camp Ndurukoro – Rainbow River Lodge - 65 km

Although our friendly hosts at the Ndurukoro Camp said they would phone their friends at Shametu to tell them we were on our way, Linda wanted to stay at Rainbow River Lodge as she believed it had a view of the Popa Falls. After pushing our bikes along the sandy approach road, we uncovered a campsite on the river with no view of the falls.

 

7 April – Rainbow River Lodge – Omega Police Station – 85 km

It took time to walk our bikes back to the main road from where the going was considerably more manageable. Our first stop was at the supermarket to stock up on food before getting underway towards the Botswana border, still, a few days riding away.

 

8 April - Omega Police Station – Kongola – 139 km

We thanked the friendly police officers and resumed our quest in the presence of the kids walking to school. It’s astounding how far these little kids walk. Most schools were basic setups under trees with only a tin shack or two.

Once again, the day turned out a long, slow slog along the main road. Little happened except the familiar sight of small groups of traditional huts and women collecting wood. We were still cycling through the Bwabwata National Park. Although a multi-use area, we were lucky to see two elephants, albeit far in the distance. Linda chose a more upmarket guesthouse, whereas I chose a local joint at a mere 150 N$. In typical African style, the room was as basic as anticipated, but the friendliness was unbeatable.

 

9 April – Kongola – Ivory Camp – 35km

By morning, Linda decided this was enough long and lonely stretches and opted for an excursion along the Kwando River. I needed to draw money and top up my internet and thus had to wait until the single shop in the village opened. Things move slowly in Africa. On cycling out of the village, the sign to Camp Kwando made me realise I was at the turnoff to my friend’s lodge where I was invited to overnight. So I made a U-turn and headed in the direction of Ivory Camp.

At camp, I was surprised the units were right on the Kwando River and that the area formed part of a hunting concession. Hippos wandered around at leisure and I was advised to put the bike inside. Koen, the manager, was super friendly, and as I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness, I took a taxi into town to buy food and beer. What a fantastic experience. The trip took almost the rest of the day as the driver stopped at each person, enquiring about their well-being and whether they needed a ride. In the village, each one got dropped off and collected later.

By the time I returned to the lodge, Koen had prepared us a meal, and we sat outside eating and listening to the sounds of the wilderness. The news that a neighbour died of malaria was a reality check and I realised I hadn’t started taking my malaria tablets.

 

10 April – Ivory Camp – Kongola – 36 km

I returned along the sandy track and cycled past peaceful settlements where smoke lazily drifted skywards. The way led past kids collecting water and wood as I found myself cycling into a stiff breeze. My late departure and the headwind made me realise I most likely would be unable to reach Katima and hence stayed one more night in the tiny settlement of Kongola.

Albeit situated on the national road and the national power line, it has not yet been connected to the electricity grid. The power was iffy, to say the least. Luckily, the power came on at around 6 pm, but it was a mystery just how long it would last. There’s further no access to safe water but, too lazy to cycle to the shop, I drank the water anyway as I reckoned I’m immune to water-borne diseases by now. I guess this can come back to bite me in the ass!

 

11/12 April – Kongola – Katima Mulilo – 120 km

The route between Kongola and Katima is not one of the most interesting, but there’s no such thing as a dull day of cycling in Africa. Unexpectedly, I encountered ladies collecting wood or water, and their faces screamed disbelief, and I can’t blame them. However, they were quick to smile and wave once over the initial shock.

We haven’t seen any of the enormous termite mounds seen further south because the termite mound soil is used to build huts, and I understand these structures can last between 5 – 10 years. The road was further dotted with makeshift stalls selling fresh milk and meat. Exactly how fresh remains a mystery.

Neat settlements abounded, and so did the Nguni cattle, a breed indigenous to Southern Africa. Nguni cattle are heat and light tolerant and can handle extreme heat and cold alike. In addition, they are adaptable and hardy and possess excellent resistance to internal and external parasites with natural immunity to tick-borne diseases.

The effortless riding made for an early arrival in the sad-looking town of Katima where I bunked down at the ABC Guesthouse. I love these places and realise how much I’ve missed Africa and its simple and slow way of life.

The following day was also spent in Katima as I had a few things to do, and Linda needed a day of rest after her long cycle the previous day.

Interestingly, I chatted with people and was asked if I wanted to settle in the area. The indigenous people do not view land as their own property – instead, it is something that belongs to everyone. I understood that they could speak to the chief and, if permission was granted, I could build myself a hut. I quite like that idea. 

160 CYCLE TOURING NAMIBIA (2) - PART 1

Shenanigans on a bike - By Leana Niemand 

NAMIBIA (2) Part 1

1 109 Kilometres - 16 Days

4 March - 22 March 2022

PHOTOS

  

 

4 March 2022 – Vioolsdrift, South Africa – Aussenkehr, Namibia – 63 km

We chatted to Kathy, the owner, forever before getting on the dirt road for the return trip to the Namibian border checkpoint. At least this time, we’d our PCR tests, and all went smoothly. The first stop was at a petrol station to buy a SIM card and have breakfast. After that, Amanda pushed on to Aussenkehr and I enjoyed the last of the paved road for some time. It was a long and lonely stretch along the Orange River and the scenery desolate but spectacular.

Amanda located a lovely resort where camping was right on the river. The only problem was the lack of internet connection and thus no means of contacting me to tell me where to go, and she’d to drive back to inform me.

The lodge sported a pool as well as a bar, and the sunset was spectacular as we lit a fire to braai.

 

5 March – Aussenkehr – Ai-Ais – 78 km

Again, I set out before Amanda and was reluctant to leave our lovely campsite as it would be the last time I see the water or a paved road until reaching Walvis Bay. Fortunately, the road was in good condition and the riding almost easy.

Midday, Amanda came past and besides her, I only saw one other vehicle which turned out to be the manager of the Ai-Ais resort where we camped. Besides the baboons, there were no other guests as it was still considered too hot to visit this part of the world. Strangely, it didn’t feel the near 40 C predicted as I’d the slightest breeze to cool me and keep the flies at bay.

After sunset, we cooked pasta instead of a braai as there was no shop nearby. Once darkness fell, the heat became almost unbearable, and I was happy to leave the flysheet off.

 

6 March – Ai-Ais – Hobas Lodge – 70 km

I tried to get underway as soon as possible as the weather forecast was for sweltering weather. Although hot it wasn’t the heat that bothered me but the steady climb into a strong headwind. The first 30 kilometres thus became an exhausting ride as I could barely manage six or seven km/h. Still, one pedal stroke at a time will get one almost anywhere. I thus persevered and around midday the wind subsided, but the flies increased, irritating me to no end. Fortunately, Amanda passed and handed me more water as the slow pace required more water than anticipated.

On the upside, the scenery was spectacular as the Fish River Canyon was visible in the distance. I was exhausted upon reaching Hobas Lodge. You can imagine my relief when I found Amanda had booked a chalet instead of camping. Although pricey, it was a lovely unit featuring all the mod cons where I could shower and flop on a bed! Her main reason for opting for a chalet was the sight of the many baboons in camp. They can be quite a menace.

 

7 March – Hobas Lodge – Canyon Farm Yard – 62 km

The main canyon viewpoint was 10 kilometres away and gave spectacular views at Hell’s Bend over this second largest canyon globally. The canyon formation started with the separation of the continent Gondwana about 120 million years ago. With the uplifting of the African continent the gradient of the Fish River increased, allowing it to erode even deeper into the rock. Today, the deepest point of the canyon is 549 metres deep.

A few drops of rain fell during the night and pools of water were visible during the day, not often seen in this part of the world. I saw Amanda about 10 kilometres down the drag at the Canyon Roadhouse after which she proceeded to our agreed-upon camp. An ancient lime kiln and an old railway bridge were the only things of interest.

Our camp was a somewhat rustic affair without electricity or Wi-Fi and thus a peaceful setting displaying gazillion stars.

 

8 March – Canyon Farm Yard – Seeheim – 67 km

Due to our early night, I woke at around six and lit the stove for coffee. Still, it was eight o’clock before I eventually got on the dusty road to Seeheim. A few kilometres further, I found the road closed due to flooding and was diverted across the Naute Dam wall where the sluice gates were open and water poured spectacularly out of the dam.

Not much further, my path reached the paved Luderitz road and, aided by a tailwind, I flew to Seeheim where we camped at the overpriced Seeheim Hotel and Camping. We were the only ones there but still had to pay to use the pool. One could, nonetheless, use their internet if you ordered a beer or food. During the day Amanda drove to Keetmanshoop to stock up as we were running low on crisps and beer! We thus did not need their overpriced beer but I needed the internet.

 

9 March – Seeheim – Alta Kalkhofen – 53 km

We learned of a campsite at Alta Kalkhofen and I made it a short ride. As the entire way was paved, riding was pleasant and quick. I was amazed at the astronomical prices in Namibia for accommodation and camping. Still, mentally we were committed to camp and thus stayed put. The prices appeared high as I got used to 10-dollar rooms in Southeast Asia. Wi-Fi and electricity were only available at the reception building, and that’s where we spent a few hours charging our devices and posting updates. This service, of course, wasn’t entirely free as one needed to order something to eat or drink. I nursed my beer as I updated posts and watched rare rainfall in this dry region. The ground seemed as greedy as some of the campsite owners.

During the evening, Amanda and I made plans to visit the ghost town of Kolmanskop, situated 245 kilometres away and shortly before Lüderitz. Although easy cycling, I wouldn’t say I like backtracking. Instead of cycling, we arranged to leave the bicycle and camping gear at the Lodge.

 

10 March – Side trip to Kolmanskop, Lüderitz (by car)

It took forever to load all our stuff in the car, and the staff kindly allowed us to store our belongings in the shed until our return. The drive to Lüderitz was remarkable and tedious as the road beat a dead-straight track through the desert.

From the small town of Aus, the way descended from the escarpment and entered the famed Namib desert, a vast plain of nothingness. It’s incredible how vast, lonely and quiet this area is, especially since spending almost two years in tropical and densely populated Southeast Asia. Not only was the area remarkable, but we further spotted the wild horses of Namibia. Living on the barren plains around Garub on the eastern fringe of the Namib Desert, their origin is shrouded in mystery. Yet, despite the harsh, arid landscape, they’ve survived against all odds.

Many years ago, I explored this region and Kolmanskop; I was thus surprised to find the famous ghost town now had an entrance fee of 120N$. I must admit I left South Africa 15 years ago, and one can expect things to change. The visiting hours were more surprising, from 8h00 – 13h00, and thus didn’t allow investigating at sunset or sunrise (the best time for photography). One had to buy a special permit for this privilege at 200N$ (I think).

We thus continued to Lüderitz, where I was relieved to find a perfectly priced room right in the centre of town, just as I thought Namibia only catered for the super-rich! The shower worked overtime, and we charged all our devices. The internet was strong enough to allow updating my blog – at last! While updating the blog, I feared I didn’t have enough data left to complete the job, and Amanda and I walked to a shop selling trinkets, airtime, etc. The lady was busy attending to a Namibian man but was so rude it was embarrassing to watch. I stared in amazement as she rolled her eyes and was irritated as he’d a problematic surname to spell! He needed to scan a document that he wanted to load on his phone to forward. I nearly intervened as she spoke to him in such a dismissive and demeaning manner it broke my heart. Attending to us, she couldn’t be any sweeter! It appeared racism was still alive and well in Namibia.

At sunset, it became surprisingly cold as we meandered to the tiny waterfront where we’d a lovely meal. The service was excellent, and the food was delicious.

 

11 March – Kolmanskop, Lüderitz – Alta Kalkhoven

As we thought Kolmanskop only opened at 9h00, we were slow to get going, but, once there, learned the gates opened at 8h00. Still, we spent a few hours wandering about this village with its sad history. I’ll post a link to an article by National Geographic which is worth a read as it sheds light on that era’s brutality.

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/eerie-fascinating-pictures-kolmanskop-desert-diamond-ghost-town

Once done, we returned to Alta Kalkhoven and spotted more wild horses but far in the distance.

 

12/13 March – Alta Kalkhoven – Bethanie – 46 km

What should’ve been easy riding became a battle into a headwind on a gradual uphill to 1100m. In Bethanie (the oldest settlement in the country), I found Amanda having tea at the hotel/guesthouse/camping which turned out the oldest hotel in Namibia. The place looked inviting, and we decided to stay the night. Not only was it a short cycle, but we further opted for a room instead of camping, all very out of character. No sooner were we ensconced in a comfortable room than a fierce wind picked up. Within minutes the sky darkened, and lightning lit the sky. The heavens opened with one almighty bang, and the rain came down in droves. In no time at all the whole place was underwater. Staff tried to sweep the water from the kitchen/communal area, but all to no avail. Fortunately, the rooms remained dry, but the entire neighbourhood lost power. We thanked our lucky stars we didn’t proceed or camp as the roads and campsite became one muddy mess.

Eventually, the owner boiled a few potatoes accompanied by a pasta salad. After that, the guesthouse became quite busy as, besides Amanda and me, three chaps working in the area and a farmer who couldn’t reach his farms due to flooding also overnighted. Reports came in that the roads were flooded and washed away, and Amanda was advised not to proceed in the morning.

It rained throughout the night and the farmer still couldn’t reach his farm by morning. The weather bureau predicted more rain and our chances of getting through diminished further. We thus stayed another day, planning to retrace our steps to Keetmanshoop and follow the main road north.  

Missionaries established the town in the 19th century due to the presence of a spring and, as we had the day free, we walked the tiny settlement visiting the Lentia Lutheran Church, built in 1899 and the original church built in 1859. Sadly, Bethanie was the scene of the first recorded deed of sale when a German representative “bought” the surrounding land. I think it must’ve been the easiest thing in the world to bamboozle people into selling land when they had no concept of land ownership. The indigenous people do not view land as their own property – instead, it is something that belongs to everyone.

 

14 March – Bethanie – Keetmanshoop – 140 km

Seeing the roads were still flooded, I stepped on the pedals and cycled the 140 kilometres to Keetmanshoop. Backtracking is never much fun, and seeing it was a long distance (to me, that is), I didn’t take many pictures. Still, I snapped a pic of the many critters on the road. Armoured bush crickets covered the road. They are meaty delights that make a good snack for many different predators. But they possess a remarkable array of defensive measures, including vomit, spikes and squirting blood from seams in their exoskeleton!

On reaching Keetmanshoop, Amanda had already found a guesthouse, and I was more than pleased I didn’t have to cycle around looking for accommodation.

 

15 March - Keetmanshoop – Tses – 86 km

The ATM spat out a few ND allowing the purchase of more data. Afterwards, a shop selling outdoor equipment, including bicycle paraphernalia, provided a pump as mine gave up the ghost. Still, it was remarkably early by the time I set out. Cycling along a highway is one of my pet hates, as it’s like watching paint dry, but there was no option. Linda arrived on the 18th, and there remained 500 kilometres to Windhoek.

Albeit the main road, the B1 is narrow without a shoulder; luckily it wasn’t very busy.

The only thing of interest was the Brukkaros Crater visible in the distance. The mountain is a large caldera, with a diameter of about 4 kilometres. The caldera collapsed about 80 million years ago, but there was no time for a visit.

Although on the main thoroughfare, there’s a lack of accommodation along this route, and the first camping was 180 kilometres past Keetmanshoop. Hence, the tiny Nama village of Tses, consisting of a few little houses, a small shop, a school, and a church, made a perfect overnight stop. It’s at the church where we found a room at 200N$. The room was sparkling clean with two single beds, a kettle, a bar fridge and a fan! It even had a communal kitchen and TV room! The rooms are most likely for the use of teachers.

Our early arrival allowed rinsing cycling gear, and we later took a walk, snapping pics of the kids who thought it the highlight of their day. Unfortunately, the thorns in this part of the world are massive, and I stood on one which went right through my shoe and into my foot! Ouch!

 

16 March – Tses – Gibeon – 96 km

Truly little happened during the day except for roadwork and reaching Gibeon, one more tiny Nama settlement, early. Like the previous day, this hamlet had a surprisingly charming guesthouse at a mere 500N$. Chatting to the people, we got a little insight into what happened in Namibia during the invasion.

https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/28/world/europe/germany-namibia-genocide.html

It’s heart-breaking what occurred in the Americas, Africa, and Australia. The discrimination and superior attitude remain in many parts. The Europeans left such a deep-rooted legacy of pain and suffering I don’t think these countries will ever rid themselves of it. It’s exciting when one gets chatting to the people who live in the region. We visited the grave of Hendrik Witbooi, and I felt humbled standing at the grave of this great leader of his time.

 

17 March – Gibeon – Mariental – 76 km

The chickens woke me early and after a complimentary breakfast from Silina, I left, not sure if I should cycle the 150 kilometres to Kalkrand or whether to make it two short days. However, the scenery was unchanged the entire way. Once at the sad-looking village of Mariental, I found Amanda at the Wimpy having tea. She further located a bargain guest house consisting of two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen and a lounge for only 600N$. Even though barely midday, we opted for this lovely guesthouse and lazed about for the remainder of the day.

 

18 March – Mariental – Kalkrand – 78 km

The B1 must be the most mind-numbing road in Southern Africa and stretched straight ahead without the slightest vista change. The way is further dreadfully narrow with nowhere to pull off when trucks came past; phew! The only thing out of the ordinary was a sudden gust of wind and even a few drops of rain. No sooner was a rain jacket donned than the bad weather passed.

Meanwhile, I got word from Amanda that she’d uncovered a 200N$ pp room and there was thus no need to camp, not that there was a campsite.

 

19 March – Kalkrand – Rehoboth – 104 km

I was in no hurry to get out of Kalkrand but got underway after two cups of coffee.

The B1 resembled the Stuart Highway through the Australian outback. Every cattle grid and dirt road turning off to nowhere required a photo stop. There was thus no pedalling past the Tropic of Capricorn sign without snapping a pic. It’s not the first time I’ve taken a picture here! In the meantime, Amanda discovered budget self-catering accommodation and, on arrival, I found the beers already in the fridge. I did indeed train her well.

 

20/21 March - Rehoboth – Windhoek – 90 km

The fog was still lying low on cycling out of Rehoboth. What started as pleasant riding became a battle into a headwind on a hillier than expected road. I felt tired climbing over the Auas Mountains and on reaching the top at near 2000 metres didn’t appreciate the rain that set in. Fortunately, the last 15 kilometres were via a good downhill. I would never have imagined biking into Windhoek in a drizzle. Locating my sister and Linda was easy, and it was good seeing my friend again. Our reunion called for a pizza evening, and I scoffed an entire Col’Cacchio pizza!

The following day was a public holiday in Namibia, and most places were closed. The bike and computer shops thus had to wait until the next day.

 

22 March – Windhoek

We all had a busy day as much remained to be done before we could leave Windhoek. First, Linda and I cycled to the bike shop where they filled our tubes with sealant; afterwards, I handed in my laptop and returned later to collect it.

That evening, my friend Erma and her husband John invited us for a braai. It was a pleasant evening in their beautiful home. We returned home well fed and grateful for such welcoming friends.

159 CYCLE TOURING SOUTH AFRICA (3) - A LAST RESORT

Shenanigans on a Bike - By Leana Niemand

 SOUTH AFRICA (3)

717 Kilometres - 15 Days

18 February - 4 March 2022

MAP

PHOTOS

 

8 – 17 February - Bangkok, Thailand – Cape Town, South Africa

Finally, I was Africa bound. It was indeed a last resort as, after nearly two years, Thailand still hadn’t opened its borders. I was cautiously excited to return to my home soil and see what Africa had in store for me. However, travelling wasn’t as easy as before, and I wasn’t sure if I would even take off. 

Eventually, I was airborne and landed in Cape Town, South Africa, after a dreadfully long flight. As can be expected, there was a great deal of eating and drinking before getting to the bike shop to do the necessary.

 

18 February – Melkbosstrand – Yzerfontein – 60 km

The time was late in the day before finally cycling out of my sister’s place. I popped into Caron’s along the way and cycled to the main road together. She returned home but promised to join my sister and me in Yzerfontein by car after work. My sister, Amanda was keen to drive along for a few days, which meant I, at least, would’ve been company during the evenings.

The road along the West Coast is utterly dull, and not a considerable amount was happening. I wasn’t too fond of the traffic flying past at high speed, but most seemed friendly enough, always giving a toot and wave. En route, I popped into Route 27, a small farm stall and restaurant selling homemade treats. Again, the people were immensely friendly. After a chat, I hopped on the bike to cycle the short distance to Yzerfontein. The short day made early arrival and allowed a visit to the supermarket to stock up on everything needed. 

Late afternoon, Caron arrived, and we drove to the shop to buy wood and stuff to braai. I also bought a chair to make camping more comfortable and planned on throwing it into Amanda’s car as it isn’t something I would lug around on the bike. Unfortunately, the weather turned icy, and I realised I didn’t pack while keeping cold weather in mind.

 

19 February – Yzerfontein – Langebaan – 50km

We woke to freezing weather and a reasonable possibility of rain. If I had known the weather would be this dreary, I never would’ve ventured so far south. Still, I crawled out of the tent, made coffee and tried reorganising my panniers as things were thrown in randomly. Around 10 a.m. I cycled out of Yzerfontein in the direction of Langebaan.

A windy 20 kilometres further was the turnoff to the West Coast National Park, where Caron had already paid my entrance fee and was waiting to cycle to Langebaan. The ride was beautiful, and we chatted endlessly, stopping at a little restaurant to have coffee and milk tart, where Caron again picked up the tab. Thanks, my friend; your kindness is much appreciated. The Langebaan lagoon was a Caribbean blue as we headed into town, where Amanda was waiting to give Caron a ride to her car. 

Again, shopping was done at the supermarket, and a fire was made for our nightly braai. 

20 /21 February - Langebaan – Laaiplek – 40 km

Packing up was a leisurely affair as we waited until the tents were dry. The time was thus around 10 a.m. before we got underway. Caron drove home, and Amanda took the scenic route to Laaiplek. I flew along, aided by a strong tailwind, and arrived at camp nearly simultaneously with my sister. The short distance was due to me needing off-road tyres to cope with the anticipated bad roads ahead. Langebaan had a bike shop but it was closed on a Sunday, and so was the one in nearby Vredenburg. 

Things are relatively quiet in these small coastal communities. But, after driving around, we eventually managed to find something to eat. 

We emerged to an uncharacteristic wind-free but misty morning and stayed in our tents until the sun warmed the air. Fortunately, the camp had a laundry, and we made good use of it before driving to Vredenburg in search of off-road tyres. 

It was a pleasant surprise to find a well-stocked bike shop where I bought two tyres. We further invested in a camping table and bowl to do dishes—luxuries I’d never experienced. 

Pat, a friend from my running days living in St Helena Bay, invited us around. A lovely afternoon was spent catching up while eating and drinking. Pat spoiled us rotten and dished up all kinds of delicious snacks. The wind was still howling, and we crawled in early.

 

22 February – Laaiplek – Elands Bay – 71 km

The West Coast can be an unforgiving place. The sun-baked, sandy soil looked forlorn in the ferocious wind plaguing the region. The plastic bags flapping on fence poles and tortoise skeletons added to the desolate vibe. 

An unexpected farm revealed kids waving enthusiastically. Stopping to take a few pics made them even more excited. Finally, the mum, baby on hip, quietly asked, “Mevrou, waar gaan mevrou heen?”

I replied, “Ek gaan Namibia toe.”

With sympathy in her voice, she said, “Oh, gaan mevrou daar werk soek?” (For what other reason would a person cycle to Namibia?)

I nearly burst out laughing but answered feebly, “Nee, ek ry sommer net.”

“Oh, ry sommer net,” she repeated, sounding tired but most likely thought her life was all bad afterall. 

And right there, I fell in love with the West Coast.

My route zig-zagged across the Sishen–Saldanha railway line, an 861-kilometre-long heavy-haul railway line. I intended to follow the service road, which cuts out a long detour. The line connects the Sishen iron ore mines to the port at Saldanha Bay. Trains transport iron ore (100 million tonnes per year!) and don’t carry passenger traffic.

Wagons carry 100 tonnes, and trains pull 375 wagons at a time! These trains (pulled by ten locomotives) and 375 wagons are more than 4,000 metres long, the longest production trains in the world.

Once in Elands Bay, Amanda had already found a spot to camp, and we set off to the nearby caves. Elands Bay Cave had been used at different times for various purposes; evidence found at the cave suggests a series of overlapping times. Research concludes people lived there around 4,400 to 3,000 years ago. Hunting and gathering activities persisted until the 17th century AD.

 

23 February – Elands Bay – Strandfontein - 91 km

We woke to a beautiful wind-free morning and felt reluctant to pack up. Instead, the way took me inland over hills sporting views over vast stretches of nothingness featuring only a lone farmhouse in the valley. This is indeed a sparsely populated area. The road stretched miles ahead, which added to the desolate feel.

Eventually, my path veered back to the ocean and Lambert’s Bay, from where I opted to cycle along the service road along the railway line. In hindsight, this wasn’t such a great idea. The road slowly deteriorated and became rutted, corrugated and sandy. It took all my concentration to keep going. The poor bicycle took a hammering, not to mention my electronics. In the process, I lost the bike lock, the mirror and the phone holder, and the odometer gave up the ghost. These items weren’t designed with rough roads in mind. Neither am I, for that matter!

The path eventually reached the tiny community of Doringbaai, from where a paved road ran six kilometres to pretty Strandfontein. Fortunately, my sister had already found a campsite and beer, an arrangement I could get used to. 

After sunset, the wind subsided, and the sky turned a beautiful deep red colour. The pretty scene masked the icy waters in the bay. The cold water along the West Coast of South Africa is due to the cold Benguela current that flows northwards from Cape Town to Angola. The prevailing southerly winds produce upwellings of water from a very deep part of the ocean (200-300m), moving in line with the rotation of the Earth. Hence the icy but nutrient-rich water. Thus, it is no surprise the primary income of villages along the coast is from fishing.

 

24 February – Strandfontein – Bitterfontein - 100 km

The day dawned wind-free but misty. Wanting to use the favourable conditions, I hurriedly packed and got underway, leaving Amanda to pack the car and clean up the mess at the campsite. 

I was in no mood to take the service road and repeat the bumpy ride the day before and, therefore, opted for the route to the dreaded N7.

I saw Amanda heading to Lutzville to shop at the little supermarket during the day. She later passed me but not before handing me a cold drink and a packet of jelly sweets. All luxuries I’m not accustomed to but very much enjoyed. My path followed the Olifant’s River as it meanders through the valley bringing life to the surrounding area, allowing for the cultivation of wine grapes, export table grapes, sundried raisins, watermelon, beans, potatoes, beetroot and pumpkin.

The rough road caused a flat tyre, but the Gu/sealant did the job, and after inflating the tyre, the Gu held, and I could be on my way without replacing the tube.

Not a great deal further, the paved road gave way to a dirt and hilly road, which eventually spat me out on the highway. Fortunately, it was only a 16-kilometre (but windy) bike ride to the hamlet of Bitterfontein, where Amanda found a gorgeous and intriguing cottage at the Art House. Unfortunately, the only shop and petrol station closed early in this tiny settlement. However, the lady offered to prepare a large bowl of French fries accompanied by a lovely fresh salad mostly from her garden. 

 

25 February – Bitterfontein – Garies – 63 km

Leaving Bitterfontein, the surrounding landscape reminded me of the Australian outback. Fortunately, not as harsh and widespread. En route, I met another cyclist en route to Cape Town. Henk Horstink hailed from the Netherlands and started riding in Windhoek. I met Tania and her husband on their way home to Strandfontein from the Kgalagadi. We chatted a while before moving on. 

Not a considerable amount happened along the lonely and hilly road, and my path soon reached the small settlement of Garies. Here Amanda had located a lovely cottage as the campsite was closed. 

 

26 February - Garies – Kamieskroon – 52 km

My unhurried departure was due to the short distance, and the sun was already high in the sky, cycling out of Garies. The way to Kamieskroon was hilly, and at the top of each rise, one could see the vastness of the surrounding area and the road far in the distance. It was dead quiet except for the occasional dassie scurrying to the safety of its den or a truck roaring past. I grinned from ear to ear on the downhill, but the grin faded on the slow slogs up the hills. Fortunately, the gradient was easy, and I pedalled into Kamieskroon, situated amongst stony hills, in good time. 

Kroon Lodge provided camping, a beautiful, well-equipped campsite where we were the only campers. By evening we lit a fire, Amanda braaied and I stuck to my bread and cheese sandwich. 

Laying in the tent one could look up at the sky and see a bright Milky Way. It was good the see the Southern Cross again.

 

27/29 February – Kamieskroon – Springbok – 70 km

It’s an immense pleasure to emerge from your tent in this barren landscape at sunrise. But, unfortunately, the nights can be cold and with a chill in the air I drank my coffee, enjoying the peace of this unique area.

The scenery was unchanged from the previous day, and the road stretched far into the distance over stony hills. Place names screamed adversity and hope. One couldn’t help but feel sorry for the people trying to make a living in this desolate and unforgiving area. Still, a strange air of calmness prevailed, and I enjoyed the ride up and over stony hills with their views over desolate valleys.

By the time I rolled into Springbok, Amanda had sent a message stating she was at the Springbok campsite, where she had booked a lovely chalet. Good thing, too, as we’d a few things to sort out before crossing the border into Namibia. 

The following day we did laundry and shopped for items we may need later; I found a new bike lock, chain tube, two spare tyres, and sealant. In addition, we stocked up on beer and crisps, as those are two things I don’t want to run out of. Hahaha. The main reason for stopping in Springbok was to get a PCR test before crossing into Namibia. The lady at PathCare informed a test takes up to two days and it will be easier and quicker to do the test at the border. We were delighted with this news and returned to the campsite.

 

1 March – Springbok – Vioolsdrif – 120km

Getting underway early was due to my fear of encountering a headwind or intense heat, but none materialised. Barely 10 kilometres outside Springbok was the turnoff to the mining towns of Okiep and Nababeep. Okiep is the oldest mining town in South Africa. By 1870, it was the richest copper mine in the world. Today, these two towns are only sad-looking settlements.

Midday, I met up with another cyclist from Italy and we chatted nonstop to Vioolsdrift.

Once at the border, we checked out of South Africa and on the Namibian side was escorted to the testing centre. To our shock and horror, we learned they stopped testing at that location that day! I felt sorry for the chap who accompanied us as it was his job and he was unaware of the new arrangements. No amount of explaining could change their minds, as the person doing the testing wasn’t there. We’d no option but to return to the South African side.

After much deliberation, Amanda and I opted for a night at the over-priced Vioolsdrift Lodge.

 

2/3 March – Vioolsdrift - Springbok – Vioolsdrift – By car

Amanda drove us to Springbok, where PCR tests were only done between 2-4 p.m. My word, what a performance! Eventually, we returned to PathCare, where we waited in line on plastic chairs. The process became a jovial affair and we learned the purpose of each one’s visit. The PCR results would be emailed and there was thus no reason to hang around. Finally, we returned to Vioolsdrift, where camping was at Kwelanga, a lovely spot on the river.

 

4 March – Vioolsdrift, South Africa – Aussenkehr, Namibia – 63 km

We chatted to Katy, the owner, forever before getting on the dirt road for the return trip to the border checkpoint. At least this time we’d our PCR tests and all went smoothly. The first stop was at a petrol station to buy a SIM card and have breakfast. Amanda continued to Aussenkehr and I enjoyed the last of the paved road for some time. It was a long and lonely stretch along the Orange River and the scenery desolate but spectacular.

Amanda located a lovely resort where camping was right on the river. The only problem was the lack of internet connection and thus no means of contacting me to tell me where to go, and she had to drive back to inform me.

The lodge sported a pool as well as a bar, and the sunset was spectacular as we lit a fire to braai.