175 Cycle Touring Malaysa (7)

175 Cycle Touring Malaysia

1 January 2025 –11 January 2025
693 Kilometres – 11 Days

PHOTOS

 

1 January – Padang Besar – Alor Setar – 98 km

I woke determined to visit Langkawi since I hadn’t been there in years! So, I set off on a beautiful, clear morning, heading to Kuala Perlis, the launching point for ferries to Langkawi. The ride turned out to be fantastic. The scenery looked straight out of a tourist brochure, and the traffic was light. Although the distance was only about 45 km, I was somewhat taken aback by the endless row of vehicles waiting to board the ferry.

Still, I made my way to the ticket office, only to be informed that I needed customs clearance for my bicycle! Can you believe it? It seems that crossing borders by bicycle is generally hassle-free, but customs clearance is required to go to Langkawi. This sounded like too much trouble, so I turned around and headed along the coast to Alor Setar.

It turned out to be another excellent ride on a country road beside the coast. I had the ocean to my right and the bright green rice paddies (dotted with buildings for swiftlet farming) to my left. The lighting was beautiful, and I couldn't have asked for a better ride. Once I arrived in Alor Setar, I headed to the Comfort Motel, probably the cheapest accommodation in town. The place has been around forever and is as basic as you can expect for 50 Ringgit. Still, the elderly owners (LOL, they are most likely younger than me) were super friendly, and the accommodation came with air conditioning, a shower, and ground-floor rooms where I could wheel my wagon right into the room. LOL.

The official language is Malay, also known as Bahasa Malaysia, but due to its multicultural population, an array of other languages is spoken nationwide. I’m learning my Bahasa Malay from the road signs, LOL.

 

2 January - Alor Setar - George Town. Penang – 103 km

Alor Setar is far more dynamic than I recalled from my previous visits and I couldn’t resist snapping one more picture of the stunning Zahir Mosque, with its Moorish-inspired architecture.

No sooner had I left, I found myself on a tranquil canal path that wound through lush rice fields. Being situated only 5.5 degrees north of the equator, the warm sun beat down upon me, and I was soon drenched in sweat. Yet, amid the heat, I felt like the luckiest person on the planet as I cycled through charming settlements. Here, friendly, burka-clad women offered an array of delectable homemade snacks.

I know I keep harping on about the scenery, but the Malaysian countryside is simply breathtaking. Each twist and turn revealed distant hills draped in lush greenery and bright green rice paddies against a clear blue sky. I hummed along to my music, lost in the moment, as I made my way toward Butterworth.

At Tanjong Dawai, a ferry carried me and my bike across the sprawling Merbok River. The ride came with a hefty fee, but it saved a long detour along the main road and was worth every ringgit.

I stopped numerous times to take pictures or admire the scenery, and it was already late by the time I arrived at the ferry terminal in Butterworth. The new terminal was quite a rigmarole and more cumbersome than its predecessor. Eventually, I secured a ticket and boarded the ferry to Georgetown on Penang Island.

Cycling into the famous George Town felt like a homecoming so I headed straight to Hotel Noble. This establishment has been around for decades and is undoubtedly the most budget-friendly accommodation available.

I barely had time to unload my panniers before I dashed off to the famous food stalls, my stomach growling in protest for having gone without food all day. I’ll explore in the morning.

Penang didn’t appear historic from the ferry, as high-rise buildings dominated the skyline. However, my short walk to the ATM revealed just how Georgetown has earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With Penang's central location in the Strait of Malacca, the island was an essential stopover along the ancient trade route connecting Europe, the Middle East, India, and China. Since the Strait of Malacca lies at the intersection of two monsoon seasons, ships couldn’t set sail until the winds were favourable. Consequently, Penang became a diverse melting pot of cultures, a diversity that remains evident to this day.

It was blisteringly hot, and I didn’t do much exploring. Most of my day was spent at the Clan Jetties, which were established over 100 years ago. The Clan Jetties are historic Chinese villages built over the water on long jetties. Typically, each jetty belongs to a single family clan, with dozens of wooden houses on each one.

Today, I had the pleasure of meeting Connie Chew, a friend I know through social media. Although we've never met in person, we have closely followed each other's travels around the world for the past 10 years. I can't imagine two people more different from each other, and I genuinely appreciate social media for making these connections possible.

Connie is a fermentation specialist known for her expertise in fermentation science, particularly in food and beverage production. She has an in-depth understanding of the microbiological processes involved in fermentation, which are essential for producing various products, including dairy, alcoholic beverages, and other fermented foods.

Connie is also dedicated to educating others about fermentation techniques and may be involved in developing sustainable fermentation methods. Her work contributes to the broader movement of using fermentation for culinary purposes and innovative applications related to health and environmental sustainability.

We spent the entire day being driven around by her lovely son, Mark, to sample Penang's famous delicacies—quite different from my usual fare! During the day, I had the opportunity to enjoy a delicious, iced coffee and tea mix. I never imagined such a concoction could taste so good! Just as delightful was the humble coconut roti. Thank you, Connie and Mark, for a wonderful day!

 

6 January – George Town, Penang – Bagan Serai - 98km

The time was 10 o'clock when I cycled onto the ferry for the short trip to the mainland. What I expected to be a quick ride turned into a whole-day affair as I was determined to avoid toll roads and highways. Malaysia is developing at an alarming rate, and I tried various routes to steer clear of traffic. Eventually, I found myself on a coastal road that offered pleasant cycling conditions.

When the weather started looking threatening, I looked for a hotel, but the only one nearby was expensive. Rather than cycling 40 kilometres to Taiping, I decided to head back to the main road, which had more accommodation options. The only hotel that offered a somewhat reasonable rate was still pricey and situated near a mosque. It was thus no surprise that it seemed to cater only to Muslims. Although almost all hotels come with a prayer mat and a Qibla indicator, this one had a list of what not to do as long as my arm. LOL

 

7 January – Bagan Serai – Taiping – 37 km

Malaysia’s hour-long time difference keeps me awake until 1 a.m. It also means it doesn't get light until well past 7.30 a.m. If it weren’t for other guests stirring, I would probably sleep even later. This morning was no different; by the time I woke up, it was still raining, and I reluctantly started loading my bike. 

As the rain eased, a beautiful, fresh morning emerged, and I set off through the rice fields. It turned out to be a fantastic day of riding with stunning scenery. Malaysia's landscapes away from the cities and highways are truly remarkable. I soon arrived in Taiping, where I decided to book a room as I received some documents that needed signing, which meant I needed access to a printer and scanner. Unfortunately, my chosen accommodation was a disappointment. All I'll say is that I will NEVER use OYO accommodations again.

 

8 January – Taiping – Lumut – 93 km

I might be getting used to the time difference, or perhaps it was due to the lumpy mattress, but I found myself awake at 6 o'clock. It was still dark because, theoretically, it was winter, and the sun didn’t rise until about 7:30. I lingered around for a while, and it was nearly 9 before I finally set out. Not much happened during the ride; I spent most of the day on a proper road. Although it was a secondary road, it was relatively busy with trucks.

My route took me through dense oil palm plantations, lush with ferns and mosses. I didn’t stop often since there wasn't much to explore. As I approached Lumut, I crossed the Sungai Munjung, which appears as an inlet from the Strait of Malacca. This area is home to Lumut Port and the Industrial Park, which provides space for warehousing and transhipment; it's no surprise that the road was so busy with trucks. 

I was pleased to see that the region also contains a large and protected mangrove area as mangroves are so essential to coastal ecosystems. Their roots play a crucial role in coastal protection, acting as a buffer against storm surges and providing unique habitats for various species. I often forget just how good mangroves are at capturing and storing carbon.

 

9 January - Lumut – Sungai Besar – 121 km

From the beginning, I was on one-lane county roads. The road was quiet, and I hardly ever saw anyone. Once along the coast, I stopped to fill up with water and also had a portion of nasi lemak, folded up in a triangular parcel. It consisted of rice, peanuts, a boiled egg, and a fiery sauce with tiny fish, no more than a centimetre or two. It took me forever to scoop out these tiny fishes. I ate my food while watching fishermen on a boat chasing a school of fish into their net, or at least that is what I thought they did.

Malaysia experiences a tropical rainforest climate with high rainfall throughout the year. I understand that average annual rainfall typically ranges from 1000 mm to 2500 mm per annum. Some regions, especially the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and certain highland areas in Borneo, get even more rain. The country’s unique position near the equator means there isn’t a real dry season, and it can rain almost any time. Most of my day was thus spent cycling through rice fields and oil palm plantations. Malaysia is the world’s second-largest palm oil producer after Indonesia.

Towards the end of the day, I crossed the mighty Perak River or Sungai Perak. It is the second-longest river in Peninsular Malaysia after the Pahang River. Its source lies near the Thailand-Malaysia border.

 

10 January – Sungai Besar – Kaula Selangor – 64 km

Shortly after leaving, I stopped at a roadside vendor to enjoy my daily portion of roti canai, which was delicious. I continued to find rural roads leading me past rice fields ready for harvest. It was easy cycling, and I rolled into Kuala Selangor early, as the distance was only about 60 km.

After arriving, I took a short walk up the historic hill of Bukit Melawati, where I encountered monkeys, cannons, and various interesting artefacts. Bukit Melawati once served as the administrative centre and stronghold of the Selangor Sultanate in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The hill features remnants of a heavily fortified fort built between 1782 and 1826. This fort fell to the Dutch in 1784, but it is historically significant that it was the first time a sultan managed to recapture a fort from a foreign power.

 

11 January - Kaula Selangor – Puchong, Kuala Lumper – 77 km

I woke not feeling bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and finding a tick in my bed didn't help. Sometimes, I think I'm just too stingy! But then it's highly likely I brought the tick there after my meander in the little Nature Park, and I hoped I wouldn't succumb to tick-bite fervour.

The ride into a big city is seldom scenic, and I tried my utmost to stay on a smaller road. Unfortunately, the more minor roads were narrow and busy with trucks and buses. I was relieved to arrive at my friend, Peter. Peter is a popular WarmShower host, and I’ve known him for the past 10 years. I was surprised that I had a lovely flatlet to sleep in, and the fridge was stocked with beer. Peter, you are the best!

The next day, I did virtually nothing, just chilling in my very comfortable room. By then, the bite under my arm was a large, red, blistery area, and although I didn’t feel sick, I was somewhat lethargic.

I hung about at Peter’s, waiting for documents that needed to be verified at the embassy.

 

13 January - Puchong

I've finally decided to fly to India and have a few things to prepare before my flight. Peter kindly provided me with a bike box.

The following morning, we had breakfast at a nearby food court, where I enjoyed the most delicious Kari Laksa which became my go-to breakfast. Later, Gan, Peter's friend and a social media friend, dropped by, and we shared a few beers and stories as we were all cycle tourers.

The following morning, I slept in because Saras, a lady I met five years ago in Kuala Selangor, came to visit. We had lunch together, and I felt embarrassed since I didn’t think I’d paid for a single meal since my arrival at Peter's place. I feel like I should be the one paying, given that I’m staying free of charge.

 

Peter planned to go camping at Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam. I spent the following night at Saras’s place, celebrating the start of Pongal, the harvest festival. In the kitchen, she prepared a traditional Pongal meal of sour and sweet rice before donning a salwar kameez for our visit to the temple.

The bite under my arm spread across my chest and back, and I thought seeing a doctor before our planned camping trip would be better. At the clinic, I learned that it wasn’t a bite but shingles! Have you ever? Peter picked us up at around 10, and we drove to Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam. Peter prepared a feast, and the weather was great.

Returning to Peters, I was in agony, and I stocked up on painkillers after another visit to the clinic, where they prescribed ani-viral tablets and cream. I also stocked up on two different types of painkillers as I was determined to kill this virus.

 

16 January – Puchong

The much-awaited documents arrived, and I ventured into the city centre. Unfortunately, my day at the embassy was unsuccessful, and back home, I discovered the most crucial document wasn't signed! To top off an already bad day, three of my attempts to draw money were declined, but still, the money was deducted from my account. Thanks to my host, Peter, I have a very comfortable place to stay, and after transferring money into his account, I now have cash. All made possible by the Wise app. I planned on repeating the embassy process by Monday, hopefully with more success.

 

20 January - Puchong

My second visit to the embassy was more successful, but unfortunately, the bank wasn’t. After speaking to customer care, I was told there was nothing they could do to unlock the account, and I had to visit a Bangkok Bank in Thailand.

 

22 January – Kuala Lumper, Malaysia – Jomtien, Thailand

Although my flight to Bangkok was only at 12h00, I was up early to pack my panniers, which I left at Peter’s place. Later, he drove me to Putrajaya station, where I could catch the KLIA line to the Airport. It's all so easy (except the banking of cause). My short flight to Bangkok was uneventful as in such a confined space, everyone pretended they didn’t see anyone. It’s what we do when people move into our personal space. Bangkok Airport was busy, and the buses to Pattaya were fully booked, so it took some time before I was seated on the bus to Jomtien. Once there, I walked the two or three km back to my room as I needed the exercise.

Shortly before reaching my emergency bunker, I met my neighbours, Peet and Charmy, and we had a few beers before I stumbled home. I took two painkillers before going to bed and slept like a baby.

 

23 January – Jomtien

First thing, I was at the bank to change my bank card. This little excursion took the best part of the morning, and when I returned, I found I couldn’t get into the Banking app. That will have to wait for tomorrow. Even this will end!

 

24 January – Jomtien

I got word from Dawn that she would arrive on 31 January for a two-week holiday, and I was happy to have company.

After two weeks, my shingles were still bothering me, on top of which I contracted a bad chest infection, which was doing the rounds in Thailand. This was not going my way.

 

12 February - Thailand – Malaysia

As Dawn was returning to Australia on the 12^th, I booked a flight to Malaysia to collect my bicycle and bags, as I was in no condition to cycle. I returned to Thailand on 15 February, hoping I would soon feel better, but until then, I planned on laying low and waiting for the shingles and chest infection to clear. 

174 Cycle Touring Thailand (23.1)

  

174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)

KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM

PHOTOS

MAP

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but I knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it was virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back to Thailand and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.

 

 

174 Thailand (23.1)

4 December – 31 December 2024

1300 Kilometres – 24 Days

 

4 December – Jomtien

It's hard to fathom that I've spent over a month in Jomtien! Something else cropped up whenever I thought I was ready to move on. My bike had just undergone a thorough service, with brand new components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water bottle. Finally, I was ready to roll, but when I reached for the pump, I found it was completely nonfunctional.

My panniers, already packed, stood ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike shop, only to discover they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me they would check their warehouse and get back to me by Friday.

In the meantime, I decided it might be wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs for a few days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers. Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing by Monday. If the pump hadn't appeared by then, I would had to improvise and make do without it. Adventure awaits!

 

7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri - 70km

I was mighty surprised when the bicycle pump arrived much earlier than expected. With a sense of urgency, I hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied up my room in preparation for the ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien, eager to get going.

As I pedalled away, I quickly found myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness. Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.

To my dismay, I noticed that room prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the weekend tourist influx. After some searching, I finally secured a modest $12 room, which I found entirely satisfactory. It was a convenient ground-floor motel-style accommodation, allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the mattress—it sure was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay for.

 

8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan – 86 km

It dawned windy and overcast, casting a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly, I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10. The first leg of my ride was a delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane along a road built over the ocean.

However, the tranquillity soon faded as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially with construction work disrupting the flow.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodations proved fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option than I typically preferred.

Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time, dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far more than one person could reasonably devour.

 

9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram – 86 km

In a desperate bid to avoid the notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in getting the bicycle on and off the ferry. Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through a maze of small paths, leading me to detour to a dolphin-watching area, hoping to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through the air.

Eventually, I landed on the service road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.

This region of Thailand is like a vast floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here, flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the community and its culture. Fascinating.

The following day was spent relaxing. I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the necessary housekeeping.

 

11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 100 km

I woke energetic. I am sure it was due to all I ate the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to the scenic route heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.

For once, I met another lady cyclist who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued at our own pace.

With a stiff breeze, I flew right past Phetchaburi, where I thought I would overnight to investigate the nearby caves. The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds on their migration south, and I kept a beady eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper but didn’t see many birds that day.

Most of the way was on a cycle path or a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30. I didn’t wait for the night market as I was starving and thus grabbed a bit to eat from one of the street vendors.

 

12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km

The route along this coast must be one of my favourite rides, as it is stunning. Add a stiff tailwind; I found myself grinning from ear to ear. I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off the beautiful Pranburi and south to Sam Roi Yot before entering Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This lovely park is known for its many beautiful caves and beaches, but I headed straight for Sam Phraya Beach to camp. Initially, it was a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby shop about 3 km away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear friend Esther Burns will say.

Walking along the deserted beach made me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water, a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy as the proverbial pig.

I thought I was the only one staying there, but the restaurant was open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.

 

13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping – Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km

I woke to a slight drizzle and hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once on my way, the drizzle intensified, which I did not appreciate. I stepped on the pedals and gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 km away, where I came to a screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay. Staying at Maggie's is always interesting for the people who stay there, and this time it was no different. UK John has been there for over a year, and USA Mike has relocated here from Indonesia and seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on Sumatra Island, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.

I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening chatting to the other guests.

I did absolutely zilch the next day except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.

 

15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan -102km

I nearly stayed an extra day at Maggie's, as almost everyone ended up extending their stay there. However, with the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of the favourable conditions and hit the road.

As I left Prachuap, the sea was even more turbulent than the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade and onto the road. Because of this, I chose not to take that route and opted for the second road away from the beach.

With the wind at my back, I sped down the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited. I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go ahead. Reaching the park's end, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to Bang Krut.

In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often meet wonderful people during my travels.

I continued cycling until I reached Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers, which closed the campsite. As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.

 

16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen Beach – 110 km

When I left Bang Saphan, it was already late in the day. With a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations. As the wind picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and by the ever-present Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a few urgent matters.

Ultimately, I realised it was better to relocate to Chumphon town since all the necessary facilities are in the centre. Once in Chumphon I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days. Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist to make me a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and take a bus back to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I decided to stay three more days instead. There really isn’t much to do in Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and I learned to say “Law-tis” instead of Lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it wrong.

 

23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman Bangalow – 84 km

At last, I left Chumphon even though there was no word of the retainer I ordered from the dentist. I was peed off, to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I slowly made my way further south. The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the ocean; other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure. When I spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist this basic accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy northeasterly winds. Later, I cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and watched the waves.

 

24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows – Surat Thani – 123 km

It was already late when I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I was grateful for the opportunity to live this life. With all my stopping, it was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to the well-known My Place Hotel as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the 4th floor.

I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani, a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, other temple paraphernalia, or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.

 

26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 107 km

At first, I considered following the coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the ride much easier.

The most enjoyable moment was meeting a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling together. Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the main road, I decided to call it a day.

 

27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si Thammarat – 27 km

I left my humble abode on a wet and grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, although it occasionally poured down in bucketloads. I remembered Valentine, the Russian gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it would be best to find a place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.

There isn’t much to do in Si Thammarat, but I walked to see the remaining sections of the old city wall. This led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and through Sanam Na Muang Park. Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the red finger represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally, I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still very much alive in Thailand. Rain or no rain, I plan to move on the next day.

 

28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn Resort – 93 km

As soon as I left, I found myself on my usual route through the coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent rain, I still enjoyed biking along this stretch. My chosen path eventually led me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable as on previous days, the ride remained easy, and the weather cleared around midday.

Around four o'clock, however, the weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track by the ocean. The prices were higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further. The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!

 

29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla – 84 km

Early in the morning, the wind was already strong, making the sea even angrier than it had been the day before. At first, I considered following the coast, but the crosswind was too unpleasant, so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How spoiled I've become!

Still, I found a surprising amount of history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I got closer to Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch Cemetery. It seems the Dutch were also here under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards, I discovered a ferry operating across Songkhla Lake's opening, saving me 10 to 15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.

Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was in the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.

I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the supermarket, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found most interesting was how busy the mall was; I thought I was the only foreigner there, which attracted quite a few stares. Although Thailand celebrates the Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting distance of Malaysia, so a strong Malay culture is prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.

 

31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar – 85 km

As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in the old town and continuing along Lake Songkla's shores. I passed the large city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via secondary roads. I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for the night in Thailand, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However, whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.

Today was no different from any other day. Before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing! Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and later into Malaysia.

Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian Ringgit is stronger than the Thai Baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 Ringgit per USD, while the Thai Baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia. However, I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already after 4 o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few meters could make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was abundant food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold me beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!