009 CYCLE TOURING CYPRUS

 

CYPRUS

120 Km – 8 Days

14 September – 22 September 2007

MAP

PHOTOS

 

14 September – Girne, Cyprus

Sigitas' acquaintance, Vidmantas, kindly offered me his house in Girne while he was away for the weekend. Staying in Girne and enjoying the comfort of his home was an obvious choice.

Cyprus, officially known as the Republic of Cyprus, is an island located in the Mediterranean Sea. It is the third-largest island in the Mediterranean and a popular tourist destination. The Republic of Cyprus claims to be the legitimate government of the entire island, with Nicosia serving as the capital and largest city.

However, in reality, Cyprus is divided into two parts. The area controlled by the Republic is in the south and west and comprises about 59% of the island. The north, administered by the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, covers about 36%. The remaining 4% constitutes a UN buffer zone. The international community regards the island's northern part (occupied by Turkish forces) as illegal under international law.

As obtaining a visa to enter Greece was practically impossible, I stayed on the Turkish side.

 

15 September – Girne (Turkish) Kyrenia (Greek)

During my time in Girne, I attempted to obtain a Syrian visa. Unfortunately, the embassy was located in the southern part of the island, under Greek control, making it inaccessible to me. After exhausting all efforts to seek help in Girne, I opted to pamper myself with a leg wax and pedicure instead, hoping that the situation would eventually resolve itself.

 

16-17 September – Girne

I explored the coast around Girne by bicycle while having the luxury of a room. While Cyprus was mountainous and arid, its shoreline featured stunning landscapes and numerous pristine beaches. Unfortunately, many new developments have spoiled the rural feel of the area. These developments have also endangered the nesting places of sea turtles that have been breeding along the Cyprus coast for centuries.

I spent an additional day in Girne trying to contact the Syrian Embassy. Vidmantes offered to get the correct telephone number, but our calls went unanswered. So, I decided to leave it and try my luck at the Syrian border instead.

 

18 September - Girne – Kaplica – 60 kilometres

The following day, I thanked Vidmantes and continued towards Famagusta. By late afternoon, I came across a lovely location on the beach that had a bar and restaurant. I deemed it to be a good enough spot and decided to pitch my tent there. With September marking the end of the summer season, only a few tourists remained —mostly pale-skinned Brits in Union Jack swimsuits. LOL

 

19 September - Kaplica – Famagusta – 60 kilometres

The following morning, I abandoned my little paradise and cycled over the mountain (nothing like a mountain pass first thing in the morning). Although campsites were available outside Famagusta, I opted for a hotel near the harbour for convenience, as the return ferry to Mersin, Turkey departed at 8h30 a.m., with the ticket office opening at 7h00 a.m.

Famagusta turned out to be fascinating as it was from here that Silk Road merchants transported goods to Western Europe. The historic centre is still surrounded by walls built by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries. I spent hours wandering its ancient ruins and the streets of the old walled city. Unfortunately, I ended up with numerous itchy bites, likely from mosquitos, covering my face, arms, and legs. Irritated by the itching, I returned to my abode.

 

20 September – Famagusta, Cyprus - Mersin (Mainland Turkey) - By Ferry

Early in the morning, I loaded my bike and headed to the harbour, expecting to catch a ferry at 8:30 a.m., as per the email I had received. However, I was surprised to find out that the ferry was scheduled for 8:30 p.m. instead.

With the entire day ahead, I decided to explore Famagusta and its Salamis Ruins, which date back to the 11th Century BC. Despite being destroyed by enemies and natural disasters such as earthquakes, an impressive amount of the ruins remains intact. Later on, I went back to the harbour, where I met two Nepali guys who were on a biking trip around the world. I couldn't help but question whether they were truly cycling or simply relied on public transport to secure free accommodation and food.

 

21 September - Mersin – Atakia - By Bus

The ferry was a shocking sight—best described as a rust bucket. I was sceptical about its ability to reach the mainland, but at least it had seats suitable for sitting or sleeping. The trip didn’t take the expected nine hours as mentioned on the ticket (not surprising, given the state it was in), and we only slinked into Mersin the following day at 9h00 a.m. En route, we had our fair share of drama as a man fell overboard, but the crew, despite the poor condition of the vessel, promptly spun around and picked him up. Not an easy feat in the dark. Hats off to the captain!

The two Nepali guys were also heading towards Syria. Once in Mersin, we decided to take a bus to Atakia on the Turkey-Syrian border. If impossible to get a Syrian visa at the border, I wanted enough time to remain on my Turkish visa to make alternative arrangements. At Atakia, we located comfortable accommodations at Sister Barbara’s, where we spent the night. After waking to one of the Nepali guys fondling my breast, I yelled at him, took my stuff, and moved to a locked dormitory for safety. The little bastard!

The following day, I packed up and cycled to the Syrian border and, luckily, never reencountered the Nepalese guys.

 

22 September – Atakia, Turkey – Aleppo, Syria – 110 kilometres

Upon arriving at the Syrian border, I met four British motorbike riders who were travelling overland to South Africa. They introduced me to Ahmed, a tour guide who helped them obtain Syrian visas. Ahmed was remarkably helpful, guiding me through the paperwork before disappearing. Three hours later, I had my visa in hand and was on my way to Aleppo, Syria. I felt incredibly lucky and grateful to have met the motorbike riders and Ahmed.

My first thought upon cycling into Syria was, “What have I gotten myself into?” Syria felt like an entirely different world, defined by its distinct culture, language, landscape, cuisine, and architecture. Not only was it a conservative Muslim and desert country, but it was also one of the oldest inhabited regions in the world, with archaeological finds indicating human habitation dating back 700,000 years.

Along the way, there was little to be seen except for cotton fields and typical Syrian communities consisting of a mosque, a market, and a few modest courtyard homes. These homes appeared modest from the outside but could be quite luxurious internally. They offered total privacy as well as a communal family area, often with a water feature or even a pool. I was so captivated by this architectural style that I vowed to one day build a courtyard-style home of my own.

008 CYCLE TOURING TURKEY (1)

 

Photo by Ed Carter

TURKEY (1)

881 Km – 18 Days

27 August – 13 September 2007

MAP

PHOTOS

  

 

7 Turkey

881 Kilometres – 18 Days

27 August – 13 September 2007

 

27 August – Bulgarian Border – Kirklareli, Turkey – 50 kilometres

I have spent nights in some unusual places, but never in a hospital. So, before leaving, I felt it was necessary to ensure that all my organs were still intact.

Eddie and I arrived in Turkey, a country with a long and fascinating history, at the end of August and in sweltering heat. Once across the border, we headed towards the nearest town and bike shop as Eddie’s bicycle rim was cracked, making it impossible to continue.

Turkish people are exceptionally kind, and offered us tea, watermelon, and coffee while we waited. Unfortunately, the rim took longer than we had envisaged to repair. It was raining as the repairs were completed, and we decided to stay overnight in Kirklareli.

Turkey is a transcontinental country straddling eastern Europe and Asia and was bound to throw us a few surprises. Still, I was amazed to learn that our first town, Kirklareli, was one of the first settlements in Europe.

 

28 August - Kirklareli – Safalan – 96 kilometres

By morning, I couldn’t wait to start exploring. Turkey is not flat, and the best part of the day was spent cycling up and down hills, heading toward Istanbul. We ended the day's ride at a picnic area equipped with a restaurant and restrooms.

 

29-31 August - Safalan – Istanbul – 137 kilometres

We packed up early because a long distance remained to historic Istanbul. Cycling into bustling Istanbul—Turkey’s economic, cultural, and historic centre —was a nightmare, with horrendous peak-hour traffic. Unfortunately, none of the campsites indicated on the map still existed, and by 21h00, we opted for alternative accommodation. But at least I had my first glimpse of the Mediterranean. As stressful as the ride was, I was happy to be in this beautiful, historic city.

Locating a backpacker hostel in daylight the following morning was far easier. It was well situated in the tourist part of town, close to the Blue Mosque.

Istanbul is an immensely popular destination, and most budget accommodation was filled to the brim. The only beds available were on the hostel’s roof, where beds were piled in, leaving no spaces between beds—resembling a huge communal bed. It was, therefore, no surprise to run into the Baltic Cycle Group.

The day was spent exploring Europe’s most populous city. We pushed and shoved our way through the city’s markets, jam-packed with a warren of stalls where the smells, colours and sights were intoxicating. We visited Istanbul’s famous mosques and watched hopefuls fishing in the Bosporus strait, marking Europe and Asia’s dividing line.

Eddie headed home from Istanbul, and I decided to tag along with the Baltic Cycle Group as we headed in the same direction.

 

1 September - Istanbul - Bodrum - By Ferry

There was no sleeping in on the roof, and I made my way to the harbour to purchase a ferry ticket to Bodrum. As the boat left at 14h00, I returned to the hostel to collect my gear and say goodbye to the Baltic cyclists, with only 15 riders continuing towards Cyprus.

The ferry exceeded expectations, boasting amenities like a pool, gym, and restaurants. The calm ocean mirrored a lake, and I spent my day lounging on the deck by the pool. The restaurant onboard was unaffordable. Still, I had a beer while watching the sunset and hung around until past midnight, watching the night sky, as there wasn’t a breath of wind, the sky was cloudless, and the weather pleasantly warm.

 

2 September - Bodrum – Datca (by boat)

The next day was mainly spent swimming and lounging around until we reached Bodrum at 15h00, where we boarded a ferry toward Datca, arriving at about 19h00. As it was already late, we set up camp on an open lot near the harbour, conveniently near a small shop selling beer and snacks.

 

3 September - Datca – Marmaris – 70 kilometres

From Datca, a scenic coastal road ran along the Mediterranean to the touristy port town of Marmaris. Despite the challenging hills and heat, the scenery and beaches were spectacular. En route, we stopped for breakfast and a refreshing swim. The Turkish breakfast consisted of a basket of bread, cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, and olives washed down with a glass of ayran.

We didn’t explore much of Marmaris, as the 1957 earthquake left little of its historical charm, with only the castle surviving.

Marmaris’s campground was directly on the beach, with excellent vistas across the bay. Watching the sunset, cold beer in hand, I thought life couldn’t get much better.

 

4 September - Marmaris – Mugla – 54 kilometres

Again, the day was a scorcher, and the mercury hovered around 46°C. We churned our way up and over the mountains to Mugla. The intense heat and steep hills made the ride gruelling, but the route offered picturesque views.

We reached the small community of Ula around midday, where I decided to get a haircut—an interesting affair. With no one speaking English, we relied entirely on gestures to communicate.

En route, we were fortunate to meet Burent, a friendly cyclist from Mugla who kindly guided us through the old town. Upon reaching Mugla, we were warmly welcomed with a cup of tea and offered bike repair services. The old quarter of Mugla is a charming area with cobblestone streets and houses dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of these houses have been restored, and are characterised by courtyards, double-shuttered doors, and chimneys.

Camping was at the public swimming pool, a first for me, with plenty of shower facilities and a lovely green lawn.

 

5 September - Mugla – Koycegiz – Dalyan - 75 kilometres

At 8h00, Burent led us out of the village and along rural roads through forests towards Köyceğiz. Koycegiz Lake connects to the Mediterranean Sea through the Dalyan Delta, a natural waterway.

Our early arrival left enough time to catch a boat across the lake to popular Dalyan and Turtle Beach. The entire area was declared a wildlife sanctuary, and a boat made exploring easy. We swam at Turtle Beach but didn’t see any turtles. The ancient Caunos harbour, with tombs carved into the rock high on the cliff face, was even more fascinating.

That night, we camped at Dalyan, where we spent the evening drinking wine on a timber deck.

 

6 September - Dalyan – Fethiye (Oludeniz) – 75 kilometres

Baltic Cycles was a fun group to be a part of. During the day, everyone did their own thing and arrived at the campsite at different times. Most cyclists were from Poland and spoke limited English, so talking to Bob from Scotland and Saline from New Zealand was easy. Ella, a lovely person from Poland, communicated using gestures and a dictionary.

While cycling, we often stopped to devour Turkish pancakes or Gozleme, a savoury flatbread filled with various ingredients. Our route took us along the Turquoise Coast, with breath-taking views of the historic Fethiye and its Amyntas Rock Tombs.

 

7 September – Fethiye – Patara

The Turkish were exceptionally hospitable and generous, frequently stopping to offer lifts, tea or even watermelon. The previous night, following a few vodkas, it was decided to see how easy it would be to hitch a ride. In the morning, we split into pairs and set off. Bob and I teamed up and, in no time at all, got a lift. The day passed quickly as we got into all sorts of vehicles. These vehicles were mostly driven one-handed, with the other hand holding a cell phone or casually resting outside the window.

 

8 September - Kas – Olympus – 90 kilometres

The steep and challenging route between Kas and Olympus was immensely mountainous, but the scenery made the effort worthwhile. The ride was littered with swimming spots, and the day flew by. Turkey is easily one of the most interesting countries one can visit. Not only because of the food, the people’s friendliness, or even the magical Mediterranean coast but primarily because of its history. From the ancient runes of Göbekli Tepe, dating to 9130–8800 BC, to the massive heads of Gods at Nemrut Dağ, dating to 69–34 BC.

A day in Olympus revealed the ruins of an ancient city, scattered picturesquely along the path to the beach. Many moons ago, around 43 AD, Olympus was a massive and important city and harbour. In 78 BC, the Romans captured Olympus after a victory at sea, and by the 15th century Olympus had been abandoned. Today, it has a hippy vibe, a lovely beach blessed with crystal clear blue water, and a mountain backdrop.

 

9 September – Olympus

We spent an additional day in Olympus, relaxing on the beach or on comfortable cushions on a timber deck. As the sun set, we embarked on a short hike up the mountain, discovering dozens of small fires burning steadily from vents in the rocky hillside. These flames, fuelled by gas emissions, have been burning for at least 2,500 years.

 

10 September - Olympus – Antalya – 90 kilometres

Antalya, a historic city established in 200 BC, lay 90 kilometres away and boasted even more impressive ruins. During the Roman rule, the city thrived and left behind many monuments such as the grand Hadrian's Gate, built in 130 AD to honour the Roman emperor Hadrian's visit to Antalya. The Hıdırlık Tower, another iconic landmark, is thought to have been built during the Roman Empire around the second century CE.

 

11-12 September - Antalya – Side – 74 kilometres

The following day, our path followed the coast toward the ancient port town of Side, famous for its beaches and Roman ruins dating back to the time of Antony and Cleopatra. Strolling through the ruins of the 2nd-century Antique Theatre, with its impressive seating capacity of 15,000, was simply irresistible. By then, we were all “ruined out” and didn’t explore much, opting instead to lounge around and do as little as possible.

 

13 September – Side – Alanya, Turkey – Girne, Cyprus - By ferry

After enjoying an excellent Turkish breakfast of fresh bread, tomatoes, cucumber, and olives, accompanied by a glass of ice-cold ayran, we cycled to the Alanya harbour. From there, ferries departed to Cyprus, a four-hour boat ride away. I parted ways with the Baltic Cycle Group as they headed towards the Greek side of the island. Though Greece and Turkey share Cyprus, obtaining a visa to visit Greece was nearly impossible, so I chose to remain on the Turkish side.