CYCLE TOURING - BANGKOK, THAILAND - KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA - LINDA

 

Thailand (13.1) - Malaysia (5)

1234 Km – 31 Days

3 December 2017 – 2 January 2018

 

MAP

Photos

Thailand (13.1)

1148 Km – 22 Days

 

3 December – Pattaya

Linda arrived in Thailand on 3 December for our planned cycle to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. She must’ve been exhausted, following a 36-hour flight from Fort Lauderdale and a two-hour bus trip from the airport! The evening was spent sitting on the balcony, drinking a few beers and I’d the feeling we were going to get on like a house on fire.

 

4 December – Pattaya

Up early, a short jog along the beachfront, followed by a quick dip in the pool woke us for the day ahead. The bicycle seemed to fit Linda perfectly, and a short cycle took us to outlying temples and the Big Buddha Hill. On our return, popping in at the floating market, concluded a lovely day. By evening we packed our panniers and prepared for our ride to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, a roughly 2000-kilometre journey.

 

5 December - Pattaya – Samut Songkram – By taxi

As arranged the previous night, a taxi picked us up at 10:00 sharp to take us the 200-kilometres to Samut Songkram. A move that cut out a long, congested and frustrating cycle through sprawling Bangkok, especially having limited time.

Samut Songkhram is home to the famous Maeklong Railway Market, where a warren of stalls spills over onto the railway line. As the train approached, traders hastily moved produce and canopies a mere metre away, leaving barely enough space for the train to pass. The train creeps at snail’s pace through the crowded market and once past, the whole shebang goes back into place in record time and trade continues as before—only to follow the same procedure when the next train arrives.

Samut Songkram was further famous for its street food. Mobile food carts popped up beside the main road as soon as the sun started setting, providing an endless array of dishes. This day was the king’s birthday and thus a public holiday, and the temple was crowded with worshippers. Smoke from incense hung thick in the air, as devotees threw Chi Sticks (Kau Cim), a form of fortune-telling. These sticks were put in a cup, a question asked, and the cup shook until one fell out. Each stick represents a specific answer.

 

6 December – Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 130 km

Following a quick breakfast at Hometown Hostel we said goodbye to the lovely owners and the two cyclists met there. Sebastian from Switzerland, didn’t feel well and decided to stay an extra day. Dave, from Borneo, Malaysia, was heading south to Kuala Lumpur. As is often the case in the wet season, the Chao Phraya River floods its banks at high tide, causing the streets to be under water. So it took cycling around the town, adding a further ten kilometres to an already long day. Still, it remained a lovely amble through a rural area. Shortly after leaving, we came across another cyclist heading to Kuala Lumpur. Romeo, from Germany, was in no hurry, and together we continued until he turned off to Phetchaburi.

The coastal route continued past salt farms, rice paddies, Buddha statues, and rivers crammed with fishing boats. Friendly Thais waved and called greetings from stilted homes. Yet, one could see signs of the previous weeks’ heavy rain, and houses not on stilts were in serious trouble.

The day became an exceptionally long one for the first day. Still, Linda did tremendously well, and we crawled into Hua Hin in the late afternoon. Bird Guesthouse, an old, rickety wooden guesthouse sporting rooms on stilts over the water was our abode of choice. We wasted no time grabbing a beer which we drank, sitting on the deck watching the tide roll in. Dave popped in for beer and stories were swapped of our day and plans for the days ahead.

 

7 December - Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot National Park – 57 km

In the morning, Dave joined us, and the three of us continued in Sam Roi Yot National Park’s direction. Finding a bicycle path, leading out of the city was a pleasant surprise. Our first stop was Rajabhakti Park, a historical theme park honouring past Thai kings. Afterwards, we moseyed along the coast, crossing many rivers featuring colourful fishing boats. A tailwind made easy cycling as we ventured further south, stopping to drink coconut juice and inspect fascinating caves.

A scramble up a small hill revealed more caves and a stunning view over the surrounding area.

As the plan was on visiting Phraya Nakhon Cave in the morning, a guesthouse was located in Ban Bang Pu. The place was pricey at 900TB, but affordable split amongst the three of us. Smiling at our fortune, and quite content, the deck made a perfect spot to watch the fishing boats anchored in the river sipping a few Chang Beers.

 

8 December – Sam Roi Yot National Park – Prachuap Khiri Khan – 60 km

A short bike ride took us to boats ferrying people around the headland to Laem Sala Beach. Our early start made us the first ones there and from where a short but steep walk snaked up the mountain to Phraya Nakhon Cave. It’s a spectacular sight to peep through the cracks and see the temple inside. A hole in the cave ceiling allowed a shaft of light to shine onto the temple, making it a spectacular sight and an excellent photo opportunity.

Once underway, a pleasurable route stuck close to the ocean to where Prachuap Khiri Khan marked the end of the day’s ride and where one could bunk down at popular Maggie’s Homestay.

 

9 December – Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan Beach – 95 km

The next day turned out a testing one as the previous night I must’ve eaten something which didn’t agree with me, and was up half the night with diarrhoea and vomiting. If not for the tailwind it would’ve been an exhausting day.

Not feeling energetic, we pulled into Bang Saphan Beach around 17h00 and waited until my friend Peter Yoong arrived. Unfortunately, Peter was cycling in the opposite direction and straight into a headwind which caused a long and arduous day. It was, nevertheless, lovely seeing him and we’d dinner together.

 

10 December - Bang Saphan - Hat Thungwualean– 90 km

A stunning sunrise greeted us, and after breakfast with Peter, we set out in our respective directions. Both Linda and I felt a great deal better (although not 100%).

The stretch between Bang Saphan and Hat Thungwualean made easy riding next to the ocean as the path led past oil palm, rubber tree, and pineapple plantations. The numerous coconut juice and watermelon vendors added to an already enjoyable day. The coastal road was genuinely idyllic and dotted by small fishing hamlets and quaint eateries right on the beach.

Thungwualean was reached in good time and sported bungalows across the street from the ocean. Supper was at one of the seaside restaurants and where the food was delicious, and the location superb.

 

11 December – Thungwualean – Kraburi – 82 km

Sitting on the beach watching a beautiful sunrise is always a good way to start a day. Our first stop was in the nearby town of Chumphon to find a screw to hold Linda’s phone-holder in place.

Afterwards, we waved the Gulf of Thailand goodbye and headed over the hills to the Andaman Sea, stopping for a snack of steamed dumplings from a roadside stand.

Once over the central cordillera, a mountain chain that ran from Tibet through the Malay peninsula (by then only a few hills), a quick stop was made at the Kra Isthmus. The Kra Isthmus is the narrowest part of the Malay Peninsula, in southern Thailand and bordered to the west by the Andaman Sea and the east by the Gulf of Thailand. Between the Kra River and the Bay of Sawi near Chumphon, the narrowest part was a measly 44 kilometres.

Being a relatively short day, we rolled into Kraburi early and where a lovely little A-frame bungalow lured us in.

 

12 December - Kraburi - Ranong - 58 km

We chatted at length to the owner of the chalets prior to cycling off in search of breakfast. Fortunately, in Thailand, one’s never far from a good bowl of noodle soup, and that’s precisely what we found.

Our path ran through the Kra Buri National Park, a particularly scenic ride, albeit a tad hilly. While chewing on sugarcane, bought from a roadside vendor, the way took us over hills and where we sped downhill at breakneck speed once over the high point. Next, we pedalled across rivers revealing simple wooden houses clinging precariously to the banks. En route, waterfalls offered great views of the valleys below. Finally, a temple revealing a giant statue of Buddha lured us in. A place where fierce-looking yakshas guarded the entrance; these guardian-warriors keep away evil spirits and can be seen at most Thai temples.

Arrival in Ranong was early, and where the Kiwi Orchid Guesthouse provided a bed. It was situated right on the main road and beside the bus station, making a rather lively spot. An added advantage was the establishment sported a washing machine and organised cheap visa runs to Myanmar, which I needed as I only had four days left on my Thai visa.

 

13 December – Ranong

A rest day was spent in Ranong and I arranged a visa run. Still, it never happened and I did a visa extension instead, the only difference being the price! The remainder of the day was spent doing the usual rest day chores of laundry and rearranging panniers.

 

14 December – Ranong – Bang Ben Beach - 57 km

Shortly following breakfast, we cycled out of Ranong and past numerous temples. It’s said 95% of Thailand’s population is Buddhist, and it felt as if there were Buddha statues around every corner. The area was so forested that the only hill featuring a grassy hilltop is now a tourist attraction, complete with a temple at the top.

Not significantly further a turn-off led to Laem Son National Park and Bang Ben Beach. Bang Ben Beach was situated 10 km from the road, and the path ran past mangrove swamps and water buffalo waddling in ponds. Even more interesting was the Sanskrit swastika painted on fishing boxes. To my knowledge, the word swastika means “good fortune” and is considered a sacred symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism; unfortunately, Hitler gave it a bad name.

At the beautiful Bang Ben Beach scenic pier, fishing boats were lying high and dry, waiting for the tide to come in. Finally, a chalet at Wasana Resort became home that night. Being early, we could kickback, beer in hand, the rest of the afternoon.

 

15 December – Bang Ben Beach – Kura Buri (Kuraburi) – 91 km

Breakfast was at Wasana Resort while chatting to friendly Bo. Bo hailed from Holland and married his lovely Thai wife nearly 30 years ago. Together they ran Wasana Resort, and it must be mentioned, her cooking is superb. Again, the stretch of road from Bang Ben provided lush and thick forests on both sides of the road. It was further interesting that mosques and ladies in hijabs became more prevalent as we travelled south.

A sign to a waterfall called for investigating and it turned out a lovely, serene area. Then back on our iron horses to Lang Thung Nang Pier featuring countless colourful fishing boats. Lang Thung Nang’s villagers have always made a living from the ocean, and it’s still so today. Before setting out on the last leg to Kura Buri, we first devoured a bowl of “namkhaeng sai”, a Thai dessert of shaved ice with the toppings at the bottom. The “toppings” came in a large variety, usually of a chewy jelly kind.

Then on to Kuraburi. Linda was like a horse who’d smelled the stable, and on looking up, she was already gone and over the hills.

 

16 December – Kura Buri – Khaolak – 95 km

No two days are ever alike when touring, and we set off over the hills past the ever-present rubber tree plantations. In the process our ride took us past at least three national parks. One offered an opportunity to walk through the mangroves; it’s always interesting to see what all lurks in those swamps at low tide. Our path further went past communities drying betel nut. The betel nut or areca nut comes from the areca palm and it grows wild all over Thailand. The nut is primarily used to make paan, chewed similar to tobacco.

Not much further was the Chaomae Kuan-Im Shrine, which had a long and fascinating history. After that, time was spent eating noodle soup and visiting an elephant farm. Close to our destination, the rain came bucketing down. We donned plastic raincoats, pulled our caps down low and continued to Khaolak.

 

17 December – Khaolak – Phuket – 105 km

The day became one marred by bicycle problems. I couldn’t figure out where the creaking sound came from and gave the entire bike a good spray of WD-40 but to no avail. Not knowing what was wrong it was best to stay on the main road instead of following more minor roads as was our habit.

Midway through the day, our path crossed the 660-meter Sarasin Bridge built in 1951 and said the first bridge to connect the mainland to the island. Unfortunately, the bridge has a tragic history. In 1973 two lovers jumped into the water after being denied a relationship by the young lady’s father. Their sad story has subsequently been made into a film.

Although Phuket is an island, it isn’t the kind of island that springs to mind, as it is rather large. From the bridge, it’s a further 50 kilometres to Patong, Phuket’s main beach.

Towards the end of the day, a bike shop with the unusual name of “U Can Bicycle Shop” appeared. Staff replaced the bottom bracket, but still, the ungodly sound remained. They then changed the pedals, but still, the sound was there. They concluded it had to be the rear rack. I paid and thanked them for their help, and we pointed the bikes in the direction of Patong Beach. (Still, I believed it was the rear hub but there’s no arguing with a man at a bicycle shop). I was further surprised at how little confidence the staff had in us. On hearing we were heading to Patong, the owner scratched his head, shook it, and declared he didn’t think we would make it, as there were steep hills to contend with. There were indeed a few steep hills, but nothing which would make you get off the bicycle and push! Despite the bike shops predictions Linda and I slinked into Patong just as the sun was setting.

 

18 December - Patong, Phuket

Linda and I had different things to do. First, I went into Phuket town to find a Canon repair centre, as I needed my camera fixed. After speaking to the Canon office lady, I learned the waiting period was two weeks. So I returned, tail between my legs, to Patong, where I caught up with Linda, who had a more successful day.

Patong is a world-class party beach, and there was no shortage of food, drinks, go-go bars, and ping-pong shows. Linda and I erred on the conservative side, had a beer and a bite to eat, and returned to the relative safety of our room. In reality, we just couldn’t be arsed with the overpriced meals and drinks and cheap trinkets on offer. I always say cycle touring spoils one for life. Once you’ve experienced the “real” Thailand, it’s hard to appreciate a place like Patong. That said, it’s a most remarkable town; as Lonely Planet puts it: “Phuket’s beating heart can be found in Patong, a ‘sin city’ of the ultimate gong shows where podgy beachaholics sizzle like rotisserie chickens and go-go girls play ping-pong—without paddles. Jet-setters touch down in droves, getting pummelled at swanky spas and swigging sundowners at fashion-forward night spots.”

 

19 December – Patong, Phuket – Phi Phi Island – by ferry

From Phuket, the plan was on heading to Krabi via Phi Phi island and onwards to Malaysia. You know you’re in for a rough trip when staff hands out seasick tablets as you board and signs read, “Don’t throw up here”. An unprecedented wind was blowing, and the seas were indeed rough. Our ferry rocked and rolled, and even the seasick tablets handed out clearly didn’t work for everyone. We did, nonetheless, arrive on Phi Phi Island safely (bikes and all!).

There was no shortage of accommodation on that tiny island, and one was quickly located, albeit at the hefty price of 1000TB a night. No time was wasted heading to the shore where a kayak was rented, for a paddle to Monkey Beach. On our return, enough time remained to walk to the viewpoint and watch the sunset in the company of loads of other holidaymakers. Then down the hill for a bit of fun with the young crowd, buckets of booze, easy banter, and typical holiday island fun.

 

20 December – Phi Phi Island

Linda went scuba diving and I decided to give it a miss and update my journal and photos. Another great day in paradise.

 

21 December – Phi Phi Island - Krabi by ferry

Sadly, the time came to leave Phi Phi island, and we caught the 10h30 ferry for the return trip to the mainland. Once in Krabi, a short ride took us to Mr Clean Guesthouse where accommodation was far less pricey than Phi Phi.

A short stroll to the riverfront brought us to the pier to negotiate a price and excursion into the mangroves. We were offered a 2-hour trip, including a stop at a fascinating cave for a small fee. By evening, I searched for a bike shop as my bicycle needed adjustment; and uncovered a friendly and competent one.

 

22 December – Krabi

After discussing our plans and route for the remainder of the trip, Linda decided to spend one more day in Krabi and use the time to go climbing. There are loads of activities to enjoy in and around Krabi. In addition, travellers often make Krabi town their base to explore the surrounding areas. I returned to the shop to adjust the gears, sorted out photos and updated my journal. Later, a walk took me up to the Tiger Cave Temple, all 1200 steps of it! Unfortunately, there wasn’t much to see at the top as the weather was hazy and the monkeys a menace.

 

23 December – Krabi – Trang – 130 km

The next day came with a strong tailwind and powered by the wind, we flew to Trang. The weather made comfortable cycling as not only was the wind in our favour, but the weather was overcast with a drizzle. We barely stopped, apart from popping into an interesting looking temple, a waterfall and a quick bowl of noodle soup. I don’t know what was in the soup, but soon Linda took off like a bat out of hell, never to be seen again.

Soon the lovely town of Trang was reached, where digs were available at the Trang Hotel. The entire hotel and town were booked out to cyclists, and it turned out, a bicycle event was taking place the following day.

 

24 December – Trang – La Ngu – 98 km

Again, the weather was in our favour as the day started with a drizzle which soon cleared. Then, like the previous day, the sun came out, and with the wind in our backs, it made enjoyable cycling to La Ngu. The way crossed numerous tropical-looking rivers, unusual-looking shrines and temples, and interesting markets. As was her habit, Linda stopped for a bowl of noodle soup and bought snacks of fried bananas from friendly vendors.

The area was littered with caves, and one offered a rather inviting swimming hole. My greatest disappointment was the Stegodon Sea Cave (which can be explored by kayak) was a prearranged trip. Instead, the route continued through the Satun Geopark, a fascinating and extraordinary area. In La Ngu, we called it a day and Linda came upon a lovely room at Dahla the Resort. Following a shower, our hunt for food, sounded more straightforward than it turned out. La Ngu wasn’t a touristy area, and hardly any English was spoken. As a result, all menus were in Thai. In the end, a plate of fried rice was the best option.

 

 

Malaysia (5)

86 Km – 9 Days

 

25 - 26 December – La Ngu, Thailand – Langkawi, Malaysia – 86 km

Following an early start, the first stop was at 7-Eleven for breakfast before heading to Satun to catch the Langkawi ferry. Even though the internet stated the Satun – Langkawi ferry was at 14:30, one never knew for sure. However, our early start gave enough time to amble along, and once in Satun, we stopped to enjoy our last bowl of Thai noodle soup. The immigration system at the Satun pier was one of the most laidback, and we’d ample time to change money, buy our tickets, and relax until the ferry departed to Langkawi, Malaysia.

On disembarking at the ferry port in Langkawi, immigration formalities went without a hassle. A stamp in the passport allowed a 3-month stay in Malaysia. We stopped for the obligatory photo at the massive eagle and then proceeded over the hills to Cenang Beach, or Backpackerville, as I called it.

The following day was a relaxing one. I went for a short jog, had my fill of roti canai, did shopping and marvelled at all the things for sale in touristy Langkawi. Linda returned sporting a South African bottle of red wine, which was enjoyed on the beach watching the sunset over the Strait of Malacca.

 

27 December - Langkawi – Penang – By ferry

Following discussions, the ferry to Penang appeared the best option. We were operating in low gear as sufficient time remained to cycle the 23 kilometres to the ferry port.

With Penang’s central location in the Strait of Malacca, the island was an essential stopover on the ancient trade route between Europe, the Middle East, India and China. As the Strait of Malacca is located on the crossing point of two monsoon seasons, ships couldn’t set sail until the winds were in their favour. As a result, Penang became a diverse melting pot of cultures, a diversity that remains today. The streets were lined by food carts, and one could feast on Malay, Indian and Chinese cuisine. One dish more delicious than the other.

Once accommodation was uncovered and panniers offloaded Linda and I headed out, searching for street art, which Penang is famous for. I organised a new Thailand visa, ate street food, and later caught up with Linda at the Reggae Bar. Afterwards, we’d a beer in one of the lanes where people sat on tiny plastic chairs drinking cheap beer—an excellent spot to meet alternative travellers.

 

28 December – Penang

The day was spent exploring - Linda took the hop-on-hop-off bus, and I went in search of a train or bus to take us to Kuala Lumpur as it was decided to spend New Year’s Eve in KL. As far as I could establish, we couldn’t take bicycles on the train, and the bus was a wait-and-see situation. I took the gamble, bought two tickets, and hoped staff would allow the bikes on the bus the next day.

 

29 December - Penang

The following morning I went for a run and Linda caught the hop-on-hop-off bus, as her ticket was valid until 16h00. Penang is blessed with an ensemble of old colonial buildings and thus has an outstanding architectural heritage. One can therefore understand why Georgetown was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My run took me past the old quarters revealing wooden Chinese shophouses, ornate temples and narrow alleys. Then, past the food stands in Little India, past Fort Cornwallis, built by the British East Indian Company in the late 18th century, past the Sri Mariamman Temple, an ornate Hindu temple built in 1883, and finally past the Clan Jetties dating to 1882.

We moved to another hotel as our room was booked. I did my laundry and then looked for a travel water heater convenient for making coffee. My old one packed up, and I desperately needed a new one. My search was to no avail and guessed I’d to wait until returning to Thailand to get a new one.

 

30 December - Penang – Kuala Lumpur by bus

In the morning we pedalled off to the bus station. The driver was kind enough to allow both bikes, albeit at the cost of 20 Malaysian Ringgit each. A short ride brought us to Kuala Lumpur, and once off the bus, we searched for the hotel booked online. Unfortunately, the hotel wasn’t quite what we’d anticipated, and the owner allowed cancelling the booking. Instead, a far better place was discovered on Old Market Square, making Kuala Lumpur easy on foot.

 

31 December – Kuala Lumpur

I went for a short run, after which Linda and I took a walk to the KL Tower and the famous Petronas Towers, my favourite tall building if there’s such a thing. Returning, both buildings were beautifully lit, as was the Masjid Jamek mosque. We popped in but were required to don a bright red cloak. Though Malaysia is a multi-cultural and multi-confessional country, the official religion is Islam, and it’s said 61.3% of the population practices Islam. There’s, thus, no shortage of beautiful mosques. That said, there were equally impressive Hindu and Chinese Temples.

On New Year’s Eve, we stopped for beer at the Colosseum. Established in 1921, Colosseum Café & Grill room is one of the oldest in the country and an excellent example of the city’s colonial heritage. Then off to the more popular Reggae Bar for a drink.

 

1 January - Kuala Lumpur

Linda took the hop-on-hop-off bus, and I searched for information on how to get her bicycle to Pattaya. Unfortunately, everything was closed, and I couldn’t find any info on sending a bike to Thailand. I nevertheless discovered a cycle shop but they were closed, and there was nothing to do but wait until the next day.

 

2 January - Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur also indicated the end of Linda’s ride. She hailed a taxi to the airport for her return flight to Fort Lauderdale, USA. After a delicious Indian breakfast of idli and roti canai, I took a walk to the post office and the news was good. Yes, one could indeed send bicycles by post and all one needed to do was box it and the post office would collect it and deliver it to the address in Thailand.

 

3 January 2018 - Kuala Lumpur – Selangor – 87 km

After Linda departed, I was no reason to hang around Kuala Lumpur. Instead, I took Linda’s bicycle to the shop to be boxed. Once done, the owner promised to contact Malaysia Post to collect it and send it to Pattaya. I left the necessary money with the owner to pay the transport and boxing fees and hoped all would work out as planned.

On leaving, I was surprised to find myself on a cycle path, making an easy escape from the city centre. 

VIETNAM (3.1), CAMBODIA (5) & THAILAND (12) - WITH TANIA – PART 2

 

VIETNAM (3.1), CAMBODIA (5) & THAILAND (12) 
3 October – 17 October 2017
14 Days – 1099 Km

MAP

PHOTOS - VIETNAM (3.1)

PHOTOS - CAMBODIA (5)

PHOTOS - THAILAND (12)

VIETNAM (3.1)

5 Days – 258 Km

 

3–4 October – Hanoi – Saigon - By Train – 34 Hours

Tania thoroughly enjoyed her time in Southeast Asia and chose to linger an additional month. Nevertheless, I’d arranged to meet my sister Amanda in Bangkok and thus had less than two weeks to accompany her. Come hell or high water, I’d to be in Bangkok on 18 October. Therefore, the best plan of action was to catch a train to Saigon and cycle South via the Mekong Delta and Coastal Cambodia to Thailand. However, one crucial task remained: getting our Thailand visas in Phnom Penh. As the process took three days, the last thing we wanted was to arrive in Phenom Penh on a Friday!

Before departing Hanoi, enough time remained to meet with friends Bret and Hayley. They always picked the best restaurants for our rendezvous, and the evening was thoroughly enjoyable.

The following day, Tania and I made our way to the station and once there, staff advised us to pack the panniers in one large bag, sold at a nearby shop. Once all was done and the necessary forms completed, barely enough time remained to board the train.

The cabin was a four-bed one ensuring a comfortable journey. Each berth sported a reading light and electrical point, handy to charge electronic devices as there wasn’t much more to do but play on the internet. A food cart came by, offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A snack trolley further delivered nibbles throw-out the day. The assumption the ride took 24 hours was clearly incorrect as following 24 hours, the train was nowhere near Saigon. Instead, we learned it was a 34-hour trip, resulting in arriving in Saigon after dark and the baggage collection office closed. However, a nearby hotel allowed collecting the bikes the next morning.

 

5 October – Saigon

On collecting the bicycles, the professionalism of the Vietnamese railway surprised us as the bikes and panniers arrived intact and on time.

Though Saigon offered surprisingly few attractions, the day was spent sightseeing. Nevertheless, it remained pleasant enough to wander and sample typical Vietnamese street food. We started by eating a Vietnamese pancake or bánh xèo (pronounced BAN-sew), a crispy crepe-like layer made of a mix of turmeric powder and rice flour, stuffed with various ingredients. Still, most common are veggies, mung beans and meat, sometimes seafood or pork. Lunch was Vietnamese spring rolls, something different from the ever-present deep-fried food. Instead, the translucent parcels are filled with salad greens, a sliver of meat or seafood and a layer of coriander, before being neatly rolled and dunked in Vietnam’s favourite condiment -- fish sauce. As if this wasn’t enough, we nibbled on Vietnamese Savory Mini Pancakes (Banh Khot).

The traffic alone was something to witness, as it’s said the city is home to 7.3 million motorbikes. It must be mentioned here that practically everyone referred to the city by its old name, “Saigon” instead of TP Ho Chi Ming City (quite a mouthful). The only one’s referring to it by its proper name seemed the officialdom. Still, it remains a bustling city offering a lively touristy trade.

 

6 October - Saigon – Vinh Long – 123 km

We were well rested and fed and excited to get underway and set out to face the notorious Saigon traffic. Unfortunately, the only way to get out of Saigon was to join the sea of motorbikes and scooters. The city is massive, and we were in the thick of it the best part of the morning. Eventually, our path cleared the city limits, and I was relieved and proud we managed to make it out of Saigon unscathed.

Only once at My Tho were there opportunities to find smaller paths. Our way led past a never-ending string of interesting stuff. Small birds and rats were on offer at eateries, making us want to give it a try. Tania is an adventurous eater and ordered grilled rats right off the rotisserie, surprisingly tasty.

The narrow paths which ran next to the river led through communities that made and sold coconut sweets, famous in the region. The delta is a watery world and no less than three times ferries were required before arriving in Vinh Long. Virtually all boats had eyes painted on their bows. Fishermen and seafarers of all countries are known for their superstitions, and the Vietnamese are no exception. Some say that the eyes are intended to help the boats at sea find their way to land. Others say the eyes are meant to scare off sharks or water monsters or are intended to bring good luck and fortune. Some fishermen believe their boats are like fish – beings with souls that must also have eyes to steer clear of danger. Whatever their purpose, eyes adorn boats, both big and small. We further understood that painting eyes on boats are a vital ritual often associated with a ceremony to “open the eyes” of the vessel and bring it to life.

 

7 October - Vinh Long – Chau Doc – 135 km

The Mekong River originates high in the Tibetan plateau. It then passes through six countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia before ending its 5 000 km long journey in Vietnam, where it drains into the South China Sea. Southern Vietnam is mainly low lying, and this mighty river empties into the ocean through a network of streams, rivers and canals. The delta is thus a fertile place. Our route led past coconut plantations, banana trees, mangos and rambutan plantations, only to mention a few. Our chosen path was a tiny one running next to one of the innumerable branches of the Mekong. These waterways were busy where boats of all shapes and sizes jostled for position. We pedalled past markets and farmers working in the fields, past traders selling wares from mobiles shops and across numerous rivers where houses precariously balanced on stilts.

All day dark clouds loomed, but we luckily never got caught in the weather. Coconut and sugar cane juice vendors abounded and countless cups of Vietnamese coffee later, we realised there remained 75 kilometres to go. It required stepping on it a tad to reach Chau Doc before dark.

In the dying moments of the day, we slinked into Chau Doc, where a decision was made to use the Mekong River ferry to get to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. The ticket was $15 plus $7 for the bike, which we considered a bargain.

 

 

CAMBODIA (5)

7 Days – 483 Km

 

 

8 October - Chau Doc, Vietnam – Phnom Penh, Cambodia - by boat and minivan

The boat trip wasn’t expected as it only went as far as the Cambodian border and not Phnom Penh. On second thought, the price was far too low for a trip to Phnom Penh but included a minibus ride to Phnom Penh. Still, it remained an exciting boat ride, past houses on stilts and fishing vessels both big and small.

In Phnom Penh, we set to work straight away and got copies of flight tickets and made copies of bank statements all things needed to apply for a Thai visa.

Once all the formalities were done, it was good to shoot the breeze with friends, Mat, Chop and Teresa, while having a few beers.

 

9 October – Phnom Penh

First thing in the morning, we were off to the embassy armed with all the necessary documents, only to discover the embassy closed. Not a word was mentioned on their website, but little one could do. However, it could’ve been a blessing in disguise as Tania discovered the “Lucky Motorbike Shop” (who also acted as visa agents) could apply for a Thai visa on her behalf. As the visa processing took three days, they offered to forward it to wherever we found ourselves at the time. Having limited time, this was fantastic news. I opted for the 14-day border visa as I planned to visit Cambodia with my sister within two weeks. That way, I would save a page in the passport, which was filling up way too fast.

 

10 October – Phnom Penh – Prey Lovea – 86 km

We first drank coffee with Mat and then departed busy Phnom Penh searching for small paths along the Mekong River. It turned out quite an adventurous day as a ferry took us across the river and landed us in a highly rural area.

The first part of the route was stunning, tranquil, and clearly, not a path foreigners took. We got plenty of stares and our actions were observed with great interest. It didn’t take long to learn why, as the way became one potholed, muddy mess. The bikes slipped and slid as the track weaved, and snaked around potholes until eventually spitting us out at a ferry across the river. Still, the area remained rural, and people were drying and dying grasses used for weaving mats. Others were drying rice, men herded cattle or fished while bare-foot monks in bright orange robes collected food. This was truly an interesting part of the country. Still, the road didn’t improve, and mud clogged our wheels, making riding near impossible.

A second ferry took us across the Bassac River and in the direction of Kampot. Our attempt to escape the traffic worked but it came at a price as the route remained potholed and muddy, at times more clay than mud, making slow and exhausting riding. It, nevertheless, remained a fascinating day in an immensely rural part of Cambodia.

Around 17h00, the small settlement of Prey Lovea came into view and though plans were on camping at the temple, a guesthouse sporting a shower and fan lured us in. But, of course, the first thing on our minds was food. Thankfully food is always in abundance in Cambodia.

 

11 October - Prey Lovea – Kampot – 127 km

“This is Cambodia, baby,” Tania uttered (her, by then, trademark saying) as we biked off in the early morning light past green rice fields and wooden carts loaded to the hilt with all kinds of gear. First, our route ran past typical Cambodian eateries selling steamed pork buns, tiny grilled birds, barbecued duck heads and other unknown grilled animals. It wasn’t long before weakening and bagging a few steamed buns. Next, the way led through hamlets where tiny kids on small bicycles were off to school. A few even gave friends a ride. Their excellent balance on a bike was clearly learned at a young age.

 

12 October – Kampot – Sri Amble Temple – 127 km

Leaving Kampot was across scenic rivers where fishing boats lay four-deep. Past oyster farms where child labour wasn’t an uncommon sight, and we waved at monks and their helpers collecting food. At Vinh Real, the weather came in, but a conveniently located restaurant made a good hiding place. The weather soon subsided, allowing us to continue our ride towards the Cambodian/Thai border, still a two-day ride away.

Reaching Sri Amble, ominous-looking weather made us turn down a dirt track to a small community where camping was at a temple. The temple was busy with predominantly kids, around 8 to 13 years of age. We were undoubtedly the centre of attraction and had little privacy as the eating hall doubled as sleeping quarters for us and the kids.

 

13 October – Sri Amble – Trapeang Rung – 80 km

The next morning breakfast was noodle soup from a typical eatery of corrugated iron and a dirt floor. As can be imagined, these were always fascinating stops, as not only were we alien to them, they were equally foreign to us. It appeared a rarity seeing women on bikes and uncomfortable smiles were exchanged slurping our noodle soup.

The remainder of the day was a short but hot and hilly ride as the road headed over the Cardamom Mountains. The hills weren’t steep, but still made slow going. We didn’t mind, as it remained a beautiful part of Cambodia. Kids were fishing in ponds, using ingenious methods and others were herding buffalo or tending cattle.

Lunch was at Trapeang Rung, a small community-based tourism village. It offered plenty of restaurants, and the food was delicious. However, the weather came in. As Trapeang Rung sported a brand-new homestay, we succumbed to temptation and stayed put. Good thing, too, as it pelted down the remainder of the evening.

 

14 October - Trapeang Rung – Koh Kong – 63 km

The next day was the last part of the hilly section and we felt amazingly strong following a noodle soup breakfast. However, hills aren’t something one can fight on a laden bike and “easy does it” remained the best cause of action.

Halfway to Koh Kong, the weather came in. There wasn’t much one could do but don rain jackets and push on. The Cardamom Mountains are picturesque, and although the rain clouded our view it remained a beautiful ride. Once over the high point and even with rain gushing down, we reached speeds of 53 kilometres per hour. The ride was a tad risky as water streamed across the road, making it impossible to spot potholes or other hazards. Still, we rolled into Koh Kong early and after locating accommodation, collecting Tania’s passport was a priority. She was delighted to learn the passport had arrived. Phew, what a relief.

Once all was done, we were ready to cross the border into Thailand. However, there remained 340 kilometres to Pattaya, and I needed to be there in three days to meet my sister.

 

THAILAND (12)

3 Days – 358 Km

 

15 October - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand – 108 km

In the wake of a bowl of noodle soup, we waved goodbye to Cambodia, crossed the river and cycled to the immigration point at the Cambodian/Thai border. After being stamped out of Cambodia and into Thailand the road continued along the Gulf of Thailand. Both Tania and I still had Thai Baht and Thai SIM cards from our previous visit and thus, no need to draw money or buy new cards.

After lunch a smaller path took us through villages, always a pleasure. The route ran close to the coast and offered lovely vistas and several coffee stops. Then, back on the bikes the threatening weather caught us but donning our plastic raincoats, we pedalled on to Trat. Mercifully, the weather looked worse than what it turned out and we slinked into Trat shortly before sunset.

 

16 October - Trat – Klaeng – 135 km

Following discussions, Tania wanted to give cycle touring a try on her own. Trat to Pattaya was a pleasant bike ride along the coast and we planned on meeting again in Pattaya. I hopped on the bike and gunned it out of Trat before she could change her mind as I knew she could do this. I felt strong and pushed on.

My sister Amanda was arriving in two day’s and I’d to be there to meet her. I thus wasted no time and pedalled onto Klaeng.

 

17 October - Klaeng – Pattaya – 115 km

I was up early, had a quick breakfast and was keen to get underway. Luckily, cycling was effortless and I was happy to ride into Jomtien where I could offload my stuff, do laundry and most of all have a long and hot shower. Afterwards, I popped downstairs to the pub where I’d a few beers with friends and where I could relax before my sister’s arrival the following day.

CYCLE TOURING SOUTHEAST ASIA - BANGKOK TO HANOI - TANIA 2017

BANGKOK TO HANOI
2244 Km – 30 Days
1 September – 30 September 2017

MAP

PHOTOS - THAILAND

 PHOTOS - LAOS

 PHOTOS - VIETNAM

 

THAILAND (11.1)

1 September – 12 September

 

1 September - Bangkok – Phanat Nikhom – 75 km

We were umming and ahhing which route to take but, in the end, decided to stick to the original plan. I’m not sure the taxi ride out of the city did any good as, upon being dropped off, we were still in the thick of things. There was nothing to do but pull up our big girl panties and face the traffic out of Bangkok. Thirty kilometres later, a rural road finally emerged. It came as both a relief and pleasure to find ourselves in the countryside, revealing bright-green rice paddies, blue skies, and colourful temples. Firmly entrenched in the land of friendly Thai people, we were offered drinking water and a shop owner gifted us drinking yoghurt; how kind. Our path continued until reaching Phanat Nikhom, home to the world’s largest woven basket. A caring lady pointed out comfortable digs near food and the ever-present 7-Eleven.

 

2 September - Phanat Nikhom – Sronlaihomestay – 70 km

Our path followed rural roads, making a pleasurable ride through the countryside. Our route went past wetlands and farmlands, where pineapples, cassava and papayas formed the principal crop. A stand sold pineapples, and again, the lady wanted no remuneration. It made me feel guilty as they have little, and we were on an extended holiday, and fed by them.

The vast rubber tree plantations pedalled past generally featured spirit houses. Typically, spirit houses were to honour earth spirits who lived on the land before clearing, thus providing them with alternative accommodation. An idyllic spot offered cottages and a place to camp. The availability of kayaks allowed rowing on the lake, a lovely end to a day of cycling.

 

3 September - Sronlaihomestay – Khlong Hat – 87 km

Tania was up at the crack of dawn, and by the time I surfaced, she was already packed and rearing to go. A lovely ride along the dam wall brought us to Khlong Takrao, from where the road led to Khlong Hat. The cycle was enjoyable, mostly along country lanes and past corn and sugar cane plantations.

The way proceeded through an elephant reserve, but no wildlife was spotted, let alone any elephants. It, nevertheless, remained stunning to cycle through such a densely forested area. Being effortless riding and aided by a slight tailwind, we sailed into Khlong Hat shortly past 15h00. That night’s camping was at the police station.

 

4 September - Khlong Hat—Aranya Prathet— 88 km

When Tania is around, there’s no sleeping in and seeing we were up early, we set out to explore nearby caves. Before reaching the cave, some climbing was required; sadly, the cave was pitch dark and slippery. Neither of us brought a headlamp and it seemed far too risky to explore any further. On the other hand, the viewpoint offered magnificent vistas of the surrounding area. Afterwards, we returned to our bicycles, stowed under the watchful eye of the Buddha.

We retraced our steps through Khlong Hat and then swung east in the direction of Prasat Khao Noi, ruins of a Khmer temple on top of a minor (Noi) hill (Kho). Prasat Khao Noi’s claim to fame is a lintel discovered during excavation; the oldest ever found in Thailand, dating to the 7th century, quite likely reused. It started drizzling, and we made our way down the 254 steps to where the bikes were parked.

Prasat Muang Phai sounded fascinating as I read Phai was an ancient city dating from the Dvaravati-era. Mueang Phai was a walled city that measured 1,000 metres by 1,300 metres, surrounded by a 40-metre-wide moat. Great was our disappointment; therefore, when simply a heap of stones and chickens scratching in the dirt remained. The next town was Aranyaprathet, which marked the end of the ride.

 

5 September – Aranyaprathet – Non Din Daeng (Lam Noang Rong Dam) – 105 km

The way between Aranyaprathet and Non Din Daeng proceeded past bizarre temples and the ruins of Sdok Kok Thom. Sdok Kok Thom was an 11th-century Khmer temple, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Sdok Kok is best known for a 1000-year-old inscribed stela, came upon during renovations. Inscriptions described everyday life and gave details concerning important events and services provided to the king by the temple’s family.

The generosity of the Thai people is astounding, and they provided us with not merely ice-cold drinking water but also mangos and steamed rice in banana leaves.

Under a relentless sun, we slowly made our way over the Sankamphaeng Range. Shortly after reaching the top, mobile carts sold passion fruit and ice-cold passion fruit juice, precisely what was needed in the wake of such a steep climb on a hot day. Nearing Non Din Daeng, dark clouds appeared on the horizon, and one could hear thunder rumbling in the distance.

The approaching storm made pedalling like the clappers to reach Lam Nang Rong Dam, where the plan was to camp and where our arrival coincided with the falling of the first drops. Stall owners were kind enough to allow pitching the tents under a large covered area. Luckily and the place featured more than enough restaurants from where to eat. The food was delicious, and supper was enjoyed while watching the moon reflect over the dam.

 

6 September – Lam Nang Rong Dam – Khao Krodong Forest Park – 112 km

A beautiful sunrise greeted us, and the howling dogs of the night before were soon forgotten. Phew, what a noisy night.

Our first stop was Prasat Nong Hong, ruins of the 11th century. Afterwards, our path went past bright green rice fields, small settlements, and scrawny cows with long ears. So rural was the area we bought bananas from a toothless lady trading from an old pram. Next up was Prasat Mueang Tam, built almost 1000 years ago in old Khmer style.

Interestingly, Prasat Muang Tam formed part of a direct line of temples between Angkor in Cambodia and Phimai in Thailand. Nevertheless, these structures were mysteriously abandoned nearly 700 years ago.

A stand sold cotton candy (roti saimai). Roti saimai (pronounced say may) is a Thai-style candy floss or cotton candy wrapped in a sweet roti. The thin silk strands are spun sugar and the strands are usually found in a rainbow of colours. The crepe is very thin, and I understand green is from pandan leaves. They were delicious, and not simply did the stall owner let us try them, but she gave us a whole bag.

It became a pleasant day of biking past men in conical hats guarding scrawny cows and both men and women collecting kids from school on bicycles. I thought the physical closeness, quality time in the company of children, even if no words were spoken.

The route continued to Khao Kradong Forest Park outside Buri Ram, where camping was available. A walk to find food carts turned out disastrous as no sooner were we underway and rain came pouring down. Tents were left uncovered and, to our dismay, found about everything sopping wet. Oi, what a mess, not what you want following a full day of cycling. A kind lady from one of the park houses brought us a blanket. How sweet of her.

At around 10 o’clock it started raining again. This time flysheets were fitted super quick, but discovered the entire platform covered by ants and promptly dived into the tents.

 

7 September - Khao Kradong Forest Park–Surin – 57 km

“Ants are everywhere!” Tania exclaimed on waking. On closer inspection, they were indeed everywhere. Our tents were pitched right next to one of the park employee’s houses, and they no doubt, noticed the commotion and came to our rescue—bug spray in hand. Wow, I don’t know what we would’ve done without their help. Loading the bikes were at the speed of light, and we were out of the park, hopefully without the ants.

Breakfast consisted of noodle soup from a simple eatery, delicious. The day consisted of comfortable riding through the countryside and past ever-present, luminous green rice fields. What a privilege to cycle along potholed country lanes, swerving out only to avoid scrawny cattle and striking up conversations with toothless, paan-chewing ladies. Farmers cut animal feed using handmade sickles and carried it shoulder-high to handmade wooden carts while women were weaving in traditional ways. On arrival at Surin, the “New Hotel” opposite the station was our abode of choice. The “New Hotel” was clearly not new anymore, but at 180 THB, one couldn’t complain, and at sunset, eateries popped up right in front of our abode, a bonus.

 

8 September – Surin

The following day was spent in Surin as accommodation was dreadfully cheap and food plentiful and delicious. The market provided cold white noodles served smothered in a curry sauce garnished with various greens and spices for breakfast. But, again, there were more than enough sweet temptations to pick from.

Surprisingly, I uncovered more than one excellent bicycle shop stocked with top-of-the-range bike parts, and I bought an odometer as well as an inner tube. Supper was outside our establishment, eating from various food vendors. What an absolute privilege sitting outside at 10 p.m wearing only shorts and T-shirts, eating delicious food from street vendors at a pittance.

 

9 September – Surin – Uthumphon Phisai - 100 km

On leaving Surin, the plan was, at first, to cycle via the glass temple. Still, the route was along the main road, and thus rather dull and opted for a more scenic country path to Si Sa Ket. Our course took us past tiny settlements where people appeared surprised to see two foreigners on bicycles and, to their delight, we sat down to have a bite to eat. The idea was to get corn on the cob and pineapple, but a massive plate of sticky rice accompanied by tiny fried fish was served. Stuffed, we continued, stopping at yet another set of ruins. Tania didn’t feel well, and best to find an aircon room.

Phisai was conveniently located and sported a guesthouse opposite the Tesco Lotus. Mercifully, Tania’s problem was only due to heat, as after a while under the aircon, she felt considerably better.

 

10 September - Uthumphon Phisai - Phibun - 130 km

There wasn’t much to report. The ride consisted of a slog past a few stands selling bamboo furniture and woven baskets along the highway. Next, our route passed luminous green rice paddies and gong makers. Unfortunately, main roads never made good cycle touring. We thus stuck to the task at hand, only wanting to reach Phibun, where camping was at a Buddhist temple.

 

11 September – Phibun – PK Resort – 60 km

From Phibun, our route crossed the Mun river and then followed the river to the Pak Mun Dam and the quaint settlement of Khong Chiam. Khong Chiam was a tiny but charming village situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Mun Rivers. From Khong Chiam, a short ride brought us to Pha Team National Park, where camping was an idyllic spot on the banks of the Mekong River.

Once the tents were pitched, we sat watching the river flow by in a laid-back mood. It subsequently turned into an unusual evening as the sky changed from blue to a deep orange/brown right in front of our eyes. It made an ominous mood, but still, a pleasurable evening, sitting outside our tents, chatting and enjoying the lovely weather. Suddenly and quite unexpectedly, a fierce wind picked up and almost immediately it started raining. Not a gentle rain but a biblical storm where one wanted to build a boat and start gathering two of a kind. All one could do was dive into the tents and hang on for dear life. I believed it would pass quickly, but it felt like it lasted forever. I’m not exaggerating if I say our tents, with us inside, almost took off. It wasn’t merely raining hard, but the strong wind made it a noisy affair. I called to Tania at the top of my lungs to hang on to the tent poles, but one could scarcely hear each other. Finally, the owner/manager of the resort braved the weather and offered space inside the conference room. The wind made it virtually impossible to stand up, let alone move a tent and panniers in such weather. Slowly and one by one, all our stuff was moved the short distance to the empty conference room. Being safely inside a brick structure came as a great relief. There was no thanking the owner enough, not simply for his generous offer but for coming out in such foul weather to help us.

 

12 September - Pk Resort - Khemerat - 115 km

“Wow, at least the wind subsided,” Tania said on waking, still wide-eyed from the storm the previous night. From our camp, a slight climb led to the main road. The rest of the day, the way remained undulating but shaded. Tania claimed the route was too hilly for even the dogs to give chase. Although undulating, our path ran through a National Park, making picturesque riding.

The map indicated various points of interest, but we only veered off once to what was shown as a scenic spot. Regrettably, the viewpoint didn’t quite live up to its name, but we snapped a few pics anyhow. Arriving in Khemarat, the temple granted permission to camp. Still, once the tents were pitched, we were told to move to a room, apparently for the use of women. Hunger pains drove us to a nearby restaurant to find a plate of fried noodles.

 

 

LAOS (5)

13 September – 18 September

 

13 September - Khemerat, Thailand – Savannakhet, Lao – 105 km

Sluggish following the previous day’s hills, a leisurely ride took us to the Thai/Laos border. En route, people, basket in hand, were collecting leaves and herbs. I thought Thai people were privileged as they still enjoyed the luxury of foraging. No wonder they can prepare the tastiest of meals simply using one or two ingredients. They’ve a knack for collecting tiny fish, crabs, and snails in ponds or rice paddies and conjuring up a meal you’ll think you’re in a 5-star restaurant.

Lunch consisted of noodle soup accompanied by a basket of fresh greens, giving it an extra unique taste. Afterwards, the way continued to the immigration to get an exit stamp. Biking across the Thai/Laos Friendship bridge spanning the Mekong River, wasn’t allowed. Instead, pedestrians and cyclists were required to use the bus, which carted people across the river to the Laos side. It didn’t take much to corrupt Tania, and we hopped on the bicycles and gunned it across the bridge, to great protest of border officials. We, nonetheless, kept going as fast as possible and laughed ourselves silly at how ridiculous it must’ve looked to bystanders.

Once in Laos, a $30 visa allowed entry into the country, and we made our way to Savannakhet and Savanpathana Guesthouse. The fun part was going to the ATM to draw local currency (Lao Kip). As the conversion rate was 8,280 Kip - US$1, one could draw 1,000,000 Kip without breaking the bank. I still had a SIM card from my previous visit, and it only needed topping up.

 

14 September – Savannakhet

Savannakhet sported a Vietnamese consulate made applying for a Vietnam visa easy. A 30-day visa was $45 and a 90-day one $55, and therefore best to apply for the latter, as it allowed exploring far more.

Savannakhet was a lovely place to wander about. We strolled the leafy streets of the old quarters and along the Mekong River, marvelling at all there was to eat at the eateries lining the riverbank. Although I must admit, pig’s brain in banana leaf didn’t sound all appetising.

 

15 September – Savannakhet

Rumours of a typhoon off the coast of Vietnam scared us, but I didn’t think Laos was in the path of the storm. Savannakhet was located 300 kilometres inland from where the typhoon was to make landfall. It, nevertheless, rained the entire day and the best part of the day was spent indoors. At around 15h00, we returned to the Vietnamese consulate to pick up our visas. As our abode lost power, it left little else to do but eat. Not an unpleasant way to spend a day. By evening, I managed to lock us out of the room. Luckily, those places generally had spare keys. It, nevertheless, took a surprisingly long time to locate it in the dark.

The following day, the rain came bucketing down. As the weather forecast predicted rain throughout the region, one more day was spent in Savannakhet.

 

17 September – Savannakhet – Muang Phalanxay - 119 km

Tania was up and packed by 5h50. Unfortunately, I wasn’t equally inspired and took considerably longer to get ready. The route to the Vietnamese border proceeded in an easterly direction. From Savannakhet, one could follow a rural path past Ban Bungva, a lake featuring restaurants on stilts, which looked inviting.

Our path eventually ended up at That Ing Hang, a stupa rumoured to house a relic of Buddha’s spine. We snapped a few pics and continued in the direction of the Vietnamese border, a lovely ride, through a rural area dotted by tiny settlements and markets. Late afternoon digs offering food nearby made an excellent place to overnight. The place was basic and barely worth 60,000 Kip, but what does a person expect when paying 60,000 Kip ($7)?

 

18 September - Muang Phalanxay – Ban Dong – 115 km

It rained throughout the night and in the morning, we departed our humble abode via a muddy, potholed road right through the morning market. By the stares and giggles, one could tell, not many “farangs” frequented their market.

Like the previous day, the day was spent biking through tiny settlements featuring simple houses on stilts and past people carrying their wares in woven baskets on their backs or shoulder poles. Women preparing food on open fires and children herding cattle reminded me of Africa. We overtook people going to the market in basic, wooden, homemade carts and others in equally minimalistic longboats motoring upriver. Bare-bottomed children played in the dirt next to the path as their parents sold bamboo slivers for tying up rice. Lunch was a bowl of noodle soup from a stall admiring the stunning landscape. We dodged chickens, goats, and black pigs on arrival in Ban Dong before finding a suitable guesthouse. The conveniently situated food vendor across the way made it a comfortable overnight stop.

 

 

VIETNAM (3)

19 September – 30 September 2017

 

19 September - Ban Dong, Lao – Cho Cam Lo, Vietnam – 90 km

Breakfast was from a lady across the street, and afterwards, we proceeded in the Laos/Vietnam border direction. Once in Vietnam, our first stop was at Lao Bao, to purchase new SIM cards and where the ATM spat out a whopping 3,000,000 Vietnamese dong.

Hardly out of Lao Bao, Tania’s chain snapped. Fortunately, returning to town was downhill, making it possible to free-wheel into town to find a bicycle shop. However, the discovery Tania’s derailleur was cracked came as a further shock. Unfortunately, there wasn’t a great deal one could do but nurse the bike along in the hope of finding a decent bike shop in either Dong Ha or Dong Hoi.

Still, it remained a beautiful rural part of Vietnam and a novelty watching people on motorbikes, loaded to the hilt with bananas. It’s astonishing what all one can transport by motorcycle. The vistas were sublime as our path led past the famous or infamous “Rockpile”, a karst rock outcropping used by the United States Army as an observation post and artillery base from 1966 to 1969.

The weather was blistering, the road hilly and the going slow. On reaching tiny Cho Cam Lo, we called it a day.

 

20 September - Cho Cam Lo – Cửa Tùng – 67 km

Upon inquiring about a bike shop, one was located a short distance away. It turned out to be a tiny workshop in a basic, corrugated iron shed that mainly catered to motorbikes. The owner was helpful enough and fitted a new derailleur, albeit a bottom of the range seven-speed one. Not an ideal situation, but we were happy to pay the 120,000 VID as we were in no position to complain. Regrettably, the new derailleur didn’t quite live up to expectations. The gears were slipping to such an extent cycling was no pleasure. I tried tuning it but knew little about adjusting gears, and better to return to the nearby town of Dong Ha. Enquiring about a bike shop in English wasn’t easy in Vietnam. Eventually, and using Google Translate, a helpful chap understood our problem and escorted Tania and me to a bicycle shop. The shop was surprisingly well-stocked but only stocked seven-speed derailleurs. Still, they manage to tune the gears well enough, allowing us to continue.

From Dong Ha, a rural path ran next to a river and then along the coast en route to the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Business along the coast primarily involved fishing. We cycled past ladies in conical hats, covered from head to toe (to avoid the sun), collecting dried fish in massive plastic bags. Shortly before reaching the tunnels, the typical Vietnamese beach village of Cua Tung lured us in. It boasted a guesthouse right on the ocean. Our early arrival allowed doing laundry and other chores.

 

21 September - Cửa Tùng – Dong Hoi – 90 km

A beautiful sunrise greeted us, and I was amazed by how quickly light could change. Breakfast was a bowl of Pho, the famous Vietnamese noodle soup eaten at miniature plastic tables and even smaller plastic chairs. The way to Vinh Moc Tunnels followed the coast and once there, these tunnels were even more impressive in real life than on brochures. They were far more extensive than anticipated and exceptionally narrow and low. Navigating the tunnels required walking bent over. Good thing the Vietnamese are tiny. One can’t even begin to imagine what it must’ve been like living in those tunnels for an extended period. It, however, seemed the people living there were well organised, as there were sleeping caves, hospital areas, bathrooms, a well-point, and numerous other demarcated areas. Still, it must’ve been terrifying living there and hearing enemy bombs dropping overhead. I couldn’t imagine what it must’ve been like living in one’s own country while the enemy dropped bomb upon bomb, year upon year. It must’ve been a desperate situation.

The way to Dong Hoi, was for the best part via the highway, and thus monotonous riding. However, a minor path appeared only towards the end of the day, offering more interesting sights. Dong Hoi was a pleasant riverside town but had an unfortunate location of being very close to the DMZ during the war. The result was American bombs razed the city to the ground, leaving only part of a church, part of the old city wall, a water tower, and a single palm tree—all quite sad.

I’d the feeling foreigners were often overcharged in Vietnam. If so, I guess, they considered it their right since suffering so many years.

Locating digs was easy, and later a walk along the river, allowed snapping a few pics, followed by supper at one of the nearby joints.

 

22 September – Dong Hpi – Son Trach – 51 km

Visiting nearby Ke Bang National Park was an obvious choice, and home to the most extensive cave system (open to the general public) in the world. Son Trach, therefore, sported heaps of accommodation, and once booked in at the Paradise Hotel, we set off to the river from where boats ferried people to Phong Nha Cave. The caves were spectacular and were made even more so by being rowed into the cave by a wooden boat. It’s difficult to describe the sheer vastness of it all, and even more difficult to capture its beauty on camera.

 

23 September - Son Trach – 50 km

After breakfast, a pleasant and breathtaking ride led to Paradise Cave. Once there, a short walk took visitors to the tiny entrance. One could hardly believe such a tiny opening in the mountain hid such a vast treasure. Paradise cave was only discovered in 2005 and was then the most extensive cave system globally. There are no words to describe the beauty of these caves and all I can say is, if ever you find yourself in Vietnam, these caves are a “must-see”.

 

24 September - Son Trach – Dong Le – 80 km

All caved out, we headed out of Son Trach. Our path followed the river, making a lovely ride. The Song Gianh River went past the quintessential Vietnamese rice fields, karst peaks, villages, and grazing buffalo. Despite the mining, Vietnam was a picturesque country away from the highway. Stopping for coffee is a must in Vietnam and slightly different from what we were used to. Ground beans were placed into a French drip filter (called a phin), a metal contraption placed on top of the cup. A thin lid weighed down the coffee, hot water was added and slowly trickled into the cup. Coffee came accompanied by a side dish of ice. We sat sipping our coffee overlooking rice paddies, grinning at our fortune.

Our day was filled with the familiar sights of salesmen on motorcycles, friendly kids bathing in the river, and produce drying in the sun, all while dodging cows, pigs and chickens.

The typical Vietnamese village of Dong Le was graced with red-tiled-roof houses, making it an easy choice to stay the night.

 

25 September - Dong Le

Tania felt unusually tired, and our decision to take a rest day was made even easier by continuous rain. The day was spent doing the usual rest day chores of laundry, but mostly we ate. Villagers found us a huge source of interest, a sure sign not many foreigners visited Dong Le. Ladies at the market stared openly and didn’t feel embarrassed looking into our bags or touching us. On the other hand, I found eating in public challenging as they weren’t shy to join us, even if only to look at what and how we were eating.

 

26 September – Dong Le – Duc Tho – 113 km

The next day one of the old Ho Chi Minh trails let out of tiny Dong Le. The Ho Chi Minh trails were a logistical system used during the war to support troops. There remained several of these trails; a few went through Laos and others through Cambodia. Nowadays, several of these trails are paved. The area was incredibly rural and scenic and where people still farmed by ploughing using oxen and buffalo. Ladies traded from wooden shacks, selling their meagre produce or freshly-butchered meat. We watched in fascination as farmers transported logs down-river and then, with the help of buffalo, hauled the logs out the river to the roadside.

The path proceeded north past grapefruit plantations where giant grapefruit were awkwardly hanging from branches. Grapefruit in Southeast Asia was considerably larger than elsewhere and the skin thick. Once peeled away, one was left with huge, dry wedges encased by a tough skin.

Dark clouds loomed but, luckily, it only rained once, allowing having a cup of coffee, something always a pleasure in Vietnam. We rolled into Duc Tho, which sported a hotel right on the river, Fuelled by caffeine. The hunt for an eatery was on, even before having a shower. We were a great source of interest and communication, mainly via Google Translate. In general, people wanted to know where we were from, our names, ages, and where we were going.

 

27 September - Duc Tho – Roadside Hotel – 110 km

Staying off the highway and finding secondary roads became a real challenge, but we were determined to avoid the motorway. Leaving our overnight spot via a bumpy and muddy path, it eventually spat us out on a brand-new road. Regrettably, it took us slightly off course. Once on rural tracks, the villages biked past looked forlorn and half-forgotten. Even the coastal route which ran past these villages were washed away and in poor condition. The way led past deserted beaches and bays, revealing wooden fishing boats and rudimentary eateries on stilts over the water. It all looked basic but idyllic. Eventually, no choice remained but to persist along the busy, hot, dusty and noisy Highway; phew! Finally, a conveniently located establishment lured us in, and it made a good enough place to take a break.

 

28 September – Roadside Hotel – Tam Coc – 121 km

We emerged to a beautiful morning, and sat watching mist curl around limestone hills, sipping the days’ first coffee. The road headed in the direction of Tam Coc, one of Vietnam’s top tourist destinations. No other option remained but to get on the highway, making it a dull, dusty, hectic and noisy ride. Still, fascinating stands abounded. A few sold beautiful pipes and others all kinds of birds and, of course, the well-known snake wine.

Lunch was again noodle soup and eaten while being the centre of attention. The scenic route made effortless cycling to Tam Coc and our $9 room was considered a bargain in such a touristy area.

 

29 September - Tam Coc

The following day was spent in Tam Coc, a gorgeous area. A boat ride upriver wasn’t only picturesque but revealed an extraordinary habit. The people of Tam Coc didn’t row using their arms but instead, use their feet. They mostly use their hands to hold mobile phones, umbrellas or hauling in fishing nets.

 

30 September - Tam Coc – Hanoi – 130 km

Tania’s final day of riding arrived, and on leaving beautiful Tam Coc, an even more stunning area was uncovered. Again, the ride was scenic, along farm roads through an idyllic setting, despite the overcast weather. Fortunately, the rain stayed away. It became an enjoyable and relatively comfortable ride into Hanoi while encountering many exciting and unique things.

Not only did we encounter a vendor selling grilled dogs, but we came across a lady walking her bike. Pushing the bicycle wasn’t unusual, was it not that the bike was customised for pushing, sporting one unusually long handlebar and no pedals. Turning off the road onto an even smaller and narrower one, biking was through Chinese-looking rural villages. Ladies traded on their haunches, and others sold live chickens, door to door, from a wire cage strapped to their motorcycles. We waved at women in conical hats, and men with T-shirts rolled up to under their armpits. Our chosen route ran through a valley offering high limestone cliffs on both sides. The valley itself was planted under rice, by then in various colours. Old men herded buffalo and younger ones cut rice and carried it in baskets dangling from shoulder poles to wooden carts. Women herded goats in stark contrast to kids on electric scooters flying past on their way home from school.

Hoa Lu was an ancient Vietnamese capital city in the 10th and 11th centuries, and it made a fascinating detour. Though not much remained of the many buildings of the time, it remained a beautiful area dotted by narrow alleys, old temples and askew moss-covered walls. Albeit trying our level best to avoid it, 20 kilometres from Hanoi, we landed ourselves on the busy highway. Traffic was horrendous, and by the end of the day, the light faded, and traffic increased. Still, we persevered and mercifully reached Hanoi’s old quarters without losing each other. Accommodation in the labyrinthian of narrow lanes in the old quarters provided a comfortable bed and a much-needed shower.

So came to an end Tania’s bike ride from Bangkok to Hanoi, and as always, it was a pleasure to accompany her.