174 Cycle Touring Thailand (23.1)

  

174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)

KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM

PHOTOS

MAP

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but I knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it was virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back to Thailand and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.

 

 

174 Thailand (23.1)

4 December – 31 December 2024

1300 Kilometres – 24 Days

 

4 December – Jomtien

It's hard to fathom that I've spent over a month in Jomtien! Something else cropped up whenever I thought I was ready to move on. My bike had just undergone a thorough service, with brand new components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water bottle. Finally, I was ready to roll, but when I reached for the pump, I found it was completely nonfunctional.

My panniers, already packed, stood ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike shop, only to discover they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me they would check their warehouse and get back to me by Friday.

In the meantime, I decided it might be wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs for a few days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers. Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing by Monday. If the pump hadn't appeared by then, I would had to improvise and make do without it. Adventure awaits!

 

7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri - 70km

I was mighty surprised when the bicycle pump arrived much earlier than expected. With a sense of urgency, I hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied up my room in preparation for the ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien, eager to get going.

As I pedalled away, I quickly found myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness. Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.

To my dismay, I noticed that room prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the weekend tourist influx. After some searching, I finally secured a modest $12 room, which I found entirely satisfactory. It was a convenient ground-floor motel-style accommodation, allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the mattress—it sure was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay for.

 

8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan – 86 km

It dawned windy and overcast, casting a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly, I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10. The first leg of my ride was a delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane along a road built over the ocean.

However, the tranquillity soon faded as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially with construction work disrupting the flow.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodations proved fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option than I typically preferred.

Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time, dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far more than one person could reasonably devour.

 

9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram – 86 km

In a desperate bid to avoid the notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in getting the bicycle on and off the ferry. Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through a maze of small paths, leading me to detour to a dolphin-watching area, hoping to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through the air.

Eventually, I landed on the service road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.

This region of Thailand is like a vast floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here, flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the community and its culture. Fascinating.

The following day was spent relaxing. I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the necessary housekeeping.

 

11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 100 km

I woke energetic. I am sure it was due to all I ate the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to the scenic route heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.

For once, I met another lady cyclist who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued at our own pace.

With a stiff breeze, I flew right past Phetchaburi, where I thought I would overnight to investigate the nearby caves. The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds on their migration south, and I kept a beady eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper but didn’t see many birds that day.

Most of the way was on a cycle path or a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30. I didn’t wait for the night market as I was starving and thus grabbed a bit to eat from one of the street vendors.

 

12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km

The route along this coast must be one of my favourite rides, as it is stunning. Add a stiff tailwind; I found myself grinning from ear to ear. I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off the beautiful Pranburi and south to Sam Roi Yot before entering Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This lovely park is known for its many beautiful caves and beaches, but I headed straight for Sam Phraya Beach to camp. Initially, it was a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby shop about 3 km away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear friend Esther Burns will say.

Walking along the deserted beach made me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water, a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy as the proverbial pig.

I thought I was the only one staying there, but the restaurant was open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.

 

13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping – Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km

I woke to a slight drizzle and hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once on my way, the drizzle intensified, which I did not appreciate. I stepped on the pedals and gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 km away, where I came to a screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay. Staying at Maggie's is always interesting for the people who stay there, and this time it was no different. UK John has been there for over a year, and USA Mike has relocated here from Indonesia and seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on Sumatra Island, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.

I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening chatting to the other guests.

I did absolutely zilch the next day except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.

 

15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan -102km

I nearly stayed an extra day at Maggie's, as almost everyone ended up extending their stay there. However, with the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of the favourable conditions and hit the road.

As I left Prachuap, the sea was even more turbulent than the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade and onto the road. Because of this, I chose not to take that route and opted for the second road away from the beach.

With the wind at my back, I sped down the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited. I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go ahead. Reaching the park's end, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to Bang Krut.

In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often meet wonderful people during my travels.

I continued cycling until I reached Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers, which closed the campsite. As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.

 

16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen Beach – 110 km

When I left Bang Saphan, it was already late in the day. With a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations. As the wind picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and by the ever-present Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a few urgent matters.

Ultimately, I realised it was better to relocate to Chumphon town since all the necessary facilities are in the centre. Once in Chumphon I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days. Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist to make me a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and take a bus back to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I decided to stay three more days instead. There really isn’t much to do in Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and I learned to say “Law-tis” instead of Lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it wrong.

 

23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman Bangalow – 84 km

At last, I left Chumphon even though there was no word of the retainer I ordered from the dentist. I was peed off, to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I slowly made my way further south. The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the ocean; other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure. When I spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist this basic accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy northeasterly winds. Later, I cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and watched the waves.

 

24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows – Surat Thani – 123 km

It was already late when I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I was grateful for the opportunity to live this life. With all my stopping, it was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to the well-known My Place Hotel as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the 4th floor.

I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani, a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, other temple paraphernalia, or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.

 

26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 107 km

At first, I considered following the coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the ride much easier.

The most enjoyable moment was meeting a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling together. Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the main road, I decided to call it a day.

 

27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si Thammarat – 27 km

I left my humble abode on a wet and grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, although it occasionally poured down in bucketloads. I remembered Valentine, the Russian gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it would be best to find a place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.

There isn’t much to do in Si Thammarat, but I walked to see the remaining sections of the old city wall. This led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and through Sanam Na Muang Park. Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the red finger represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally, I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still very much alive in Thailand. Rain or no rain, I plan to move on the next day.

 

28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn Resort – 93 km

As soon as I left, I found myself on my usual route through the coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent rain, I still enjoyed biking along this stretch. My chosen path eventually led me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable as on previous days, the ride remained easy, and the weather cleared around midday.

Around four o'clock, however, the weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track by the ocean. The prices were higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further. The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!

 

29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla – 84 km

Early in the morning, the wind was already strong, making the sea even angrier than it had been the day before. At first, I considered following the coast, but the crosswind was too unpleasant, so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How spoiled I've become!

Still, I found a surprising amount of history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I got closer to Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch Cemetery. It seems the Dutch were also here under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards, I discovered a ferry operating across Songkhla Lake's opening, saving me 10 to 15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.

Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was in the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.

I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the supermarket, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found most interesting was how busy the mall was; I thought I was the only foreigner there, which attracted quite a few stares. Although Thailand celebrates the Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting distance of Malaysia, so a strong Malay culture is prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.

 

31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar – 85 km

As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in the old town and continuing along Lake Songkla's shores. I passed the large city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via secondary roads. I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for the night in Thailand, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However, whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.

Today was no different from any other day. Before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing! Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and later into Malaysia.

Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian Ringgit is stronger than the Thai Baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 Ringgit per USD, while the Thai Baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia. However, I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already after 4 o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few meters could make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was abundant food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold me beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!

173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)

 173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)
2 October - 19 October 2024
1 042 Km – 17 Days

MAP

 

 

2-3 October - Muang Khong - Stung Treng - 100 km

I began my day with a steaming cup of coffee as I prepared for my ride across the bridge to join Route 13 South. Despite the brisk wind tugging at my clothes, I felt a surge of excitement at the prospect of returning to Cambodia after nearly five years when I cycled the country with my friends Megan, Erma, and Janice.

The process of getting stamped out of Laos turned out to be surprisingly straightforward, despite the border post's notorious reputation for bribery. The officers requested a $2 stamp fee, but I firmly declined, and they didn't push the issue. The Cambodian immigration process was much smoother, and I paid the $35 visa fee before resuming my journey.

The road leading south was in a sorry state due to ongoing repairs, covered in a thick layer of gravel that made cycling a challenge. Fortunately, motorbikes had carved out a single track next to the road. Although signs periodically indicated the "End of road work," the gravel would quickly reappear, and I kept reassuring myself with the mantra, "This too shall pass."

On a more positive note, I had the pleasure of meeting another cyclist from Japan who was also on a cycling adventure through Asia. I also discovered that Cambodia was in the midst of celebrating Pchum Ben, or the Festival of the Ancestors, one of the country's most significant and grandest festivals. I caught glimpses of the festivities, witnessing two-wheel tractors laden with villagers passing by in the opposite direction.

By the time I arrived in Stung Treng, it was late, and I struggled to find a hotel with available rooms, most likely due to the festivities. I settled for one that offered an air-conditioned room with a window for $12, but I found the cleanliness lacking, and I wondered if my frugality was worth it.

I decided to stay in Stung Treng the next day to withdraw Cambodian Riel or Khmer Riel (KHR) (4 000 KHR = 1 US$), a SIM card, and take care of a few other things.

 

4 October – Stung Streng – Preah Vihear – 140 km

I felt remarkably energetic, and the weather and the road were good. As a result, I pushed on. I forgot just how scenic Cambodia is. Numerous unusual sights kept me occupied, and I again realised just how comfortable the Cambodians are on a motorbike, as twice I saw people returning from the clinic with an IV drip bag on a stick attached to their arm.

I don't know what was in the drink I bought from a roadside vendor as I was so energetic that I cycled the 140 km to Preah Vihear. Once there I was more than happy to find Javier Guest House, which has a lovely large room for only $7.

 

5 October – Preah Vihear – Phumi Moreal, Heng Heng Guest House – 83 km

I wasn’t all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and my morning search for a baguette revealed nothing, so I got on the road and headed toward Siam Reap. Again, the scenery was unsurpassed, and it turned out to be a lovely day of riding. Sixty km later, I came upon Koh Ker, a UNESCO World Heritage and Archaeological Site. This Ancient capital of the Khmer Empire between 921 and 944 CE is now partially hidden in a dense forest; I dropped my bags at a guesthouse and went exploring. It was after six p.m. that I returned and headed straight to a restaurant, starving.

 

6 October – Phumi Moreal – Siam Reap – 100 km

It rained throughout the night, and I could still hear it pouring when I woke up. I stayed in bed with a coffee and played on my phone until I heard that the rain subsided. It was thus late morning by the time I saddled my old iron horse for the ride to Siam Reap. I felt immensely happy to be on the bike, pedalling down a rural road. The sound of children calling “Hello Farang” always brought a smile to my face, their voices blending with the sound of cattle. If you didn’t respond, they would keep calling louder and louder, their excitement echoing through the countryside.

This is such a rural part of Cambodia that, at times, I could imagine I'm on a different planet. By the time I neared touristy Siam Reap, I was somewhat taken aback by the urgency of the drivers and the chaotic dance of traffic, which sharply contrasted with the peaceful countryside. Still, I joined this dance and made my way to Smiley Guesthouse, which has ground-floor budget rooms and a swimming pool. It’s a good place to lay low, and I paid for three nights.

On stepping out, I thought I could easily spend the three days eating as the aroma of the local delicacies wafted through the air. I imagined myself exploring all the culinary delights of the area.

The following day, I took the bicycle to the bike shop to be cleaned and oiled. I was shocked at the prices in Siam Reap. When prices are quoted in US$, you know you have been overcharged. So, nothing much came of eating at all the restaurants that looked so inviting the previous evening as they were clearly priced with tourists in mind. Eventually, I grabbed a baguette with egg and salad from a mobile vendor at less than half the price at the sit-down restaurants. I also handed in my laundry to get a proper machine wash as it’s a fee I never complain about.

 

9 October Siam Reap – Stoung – 102 km

I made a bit of a detour because I didn’t want to cycle along the main road, but the minor road I chose soon spat me out on the main road south. I guess I’ll never get used to Cambodia's ingenious means of transport. There is nothing they cannot transport by bicycle or a two-wheel tractor.

Once away from Siam Reap, the road was quiet and a pleasure to cycle. The rain lasted no more than 10 minutes, and soon, the sun was shining bright again. I met the nicest people; a man stopped and handed me a Pocari Sweat. How nice was that? Later, I stopped to take a break and met a mum and her daughter who could speak some English. She was ever so helpful, and we took a few selfies.

I was on the old Khmer highway between Angkor and Phnom Penh. It's a new road today, but surprisingly, the Kampong Kdei Bridge is still in use. Built in the 12th century, Spean Praptos, also known as Kampong Kdei Bridge, used to be the longest corbeled stone-arch bridge in the world, with over twenty narrow arches spanning 87 metres.

I arrived in Stoung around four p.m. It is a typical Cambodian small town with a market, a temple, muddy roads, a petrol station, bug vendors, and the ever-present mobile food carts. My guest house cost 8 Dollars, and the room was as big as a dancehall. Taking the stir my presence created, I didn’t think a farang had ever stayed at this establishment; great was my surprise thus when I discovered a young American lady also staying at the guesthouse and travelling by bicycle. She was heading to Siam Reap and this was her fourth day on her first cycling holiday.

 

10 October - Stoung – Won With Guest House – 110 km

In a 2021 survey, it was found that approximately 63 percent of households in Cambodia are engaged in agricultural production. It's thus common to see wooden houses on stilts with chickens, buffalos, cows, palm and mango trees next to rice fields. Today, I came across many "Ambok" or flattened rice producers along the road. The rice seemed to be first roasted in a pan with a mechanical stirrer, then pounded in a wooden bowl and separated from the husk in a sieve. During the rice harvest, some rice is specially prepared for certain Khmer ceremonies and family gatherings. I regret not buying any, but hopefully, I'll find them again tomorrow. After 110 km, I found Win With Guesthouse, a perfect spot midway between Phnom Penh and Stoung. Once again, the experience of finding food was fascinating and amusing.

 

11 October – Win With or Von Vith guest house - Phnom Penh 110km

The ride to Phnom Pehn was surprisingly easy, as it is a new road. Still, it was pretty boring, and I believe that my ride along the river trail was far more interesting. However, it was easy riding, although not much happened except for stopping at Skun, known as Spider Village. The reason is that it’s a place well known for the exotic cuisine of tarantulas. Vendors sold deep-fried tarantulas coated in garlic and chillies, and although the aroma was appetising, I don’t think I can ever get myself to eat a tarantula. The last stretch into the capital was easy-going except for the chaotic traffic. I rarely made a booking, but this time I did, and as always, it was a total disaster, and I didn’t stay at the place booked. I, however, easily found a room as just about every second building in Phnom Pehn is a guesthouse.

I stayed in Phnom Penh for three nights as I quite like the place, and I had the usual housekeeping to attend to. I also met up with Matt, a friend for many years and we had supper at the Addis Restaurant. I love Ethiopian food, and the food at Addis is excellent and it made for a lovely and relaxing evening.

 

14 October – Phnom Penh – Krong Doun Kaev – 103 km

As I left the bustling city of Phnom Penh, I found myself navigating through the chaotic Monday morning traffic. It always takes some time to adjust to the constant flow of vehicles and the need to trust the traffic around me. Once I cleared the city limits, I followed a narrow path along the serene Bassac River. A sign directed towards Chisor Mountain Temple caught my eye, prompting me to change my course to the west. To my delight, I stumbled upon the ancient ruins of this 11th-century temple perched high on a hill, accessible by a lengthy staircase. Despite the heat and swarms of mosquitoes, I persevered and was delighted to reach the remains of this old temple. However, my battle with the mosquitoes eventually forced me to cut my visit short. By the time I finished, it was already late afternoon, but I decided to cycle to the next village, which was only 30 km away.

 

15-17 - October – Krong Doun Kaev – Kampot - 86 km

Again, the Main Road to Kampot was a dead boring affair. That said, the road was new, wide and in good condition, so I shouldn’t complain. It’s just that I don’t like such predictability. In any event, I stuck to the main road and soon landed in the lovely riverside town of Kampot. I’ve visited Kampot on many occasions and this time I chose to stay in the village. Good Morning Kampot Guesthouse was an ideal place to stay as it was slap bang in the centre and right on the river. It also offered spacious budget rooms on the upper floors with a restaurant below. Reviews stated that the food was excellent; I think whoever made those comments must have been British, as the food was so bland that I had to ask for a portion of fresh chillies to make it more palatable. LOL

I paid for two nights and was thus slow to rise the following morning. With no plans for the day, I handed in my laundry as whenever I have a chance of having my laundry done for a dollar, I can’t resist. I did truly little the rest of the day except visit the Kampot market as no one can be in Kampot and not go to the market or buy the famous Kampot pepper, known as the best pepper in the world.

I was up early to collect my laundry, but the lady couldn’t find it and asked that I return later. There wasn’t much to do in Kampot, so I took my bicycle and cycled to the old fishing village on the opposite side of the river. Much later, I returned and was happy to find that my laundry was located. I was so happy that I treated myself to Nachos & Gaugamela in Kampot Alley, where noodles are still handmade, and something is always steaming in a pot.

 

18 October – Kampot – Srae Ambel – 108 km

After doing almost nothing for two full days, I felt pretty energetic and was eager to get underway. I had no specific plan and contemplated going to Sihanoukville.

The day started with a lovely scenic ride, and I was happy to be out on the bike. This euphoria, however, came to a grinding halt when the paved road abruptly disappeared after approximately 25 km. It was not a disaster until I realised this was no ordinary dirt road but one that had been neglected for years, and I thought it resembled a minefield (not that I knew what it looked like). In any event, I persevered, bouncing over the potholes and slip-sliding through the muddy patches. Conditions worsened as the day progressed, and I had my eye set on the junction 20 km away, believing conditions would improve from there. I clawed onto the handlebars for dear life, and after 5 km, I stopped to take a breather, feeling happy I managed 5 km. My wrists and arms felt shaky, but I returned to the bike, determined to reach the main road. And so it went until I reached the junction.

It was already quite late, and instead of going to Sihanoukville, I decided to head straight to Srae Ambel. You can imagine my surprise when I found the road (although paved) in dreadful condition, busy and narrow. So narrow was the road that two trucks could barely pass one another, let alone avoid bicycles or motorbikes. Motorbikes mainly used the no-man’s land next to the paved road, and I followed suit. This was no easy ride as the no-man’s land wasn’t meant for vehicles and was by then potholed and muddy. I was in this mess and had to persevere. The continuous rain didn’t make the ride any more manageable. Once, I stopped for coffee to get out of the rain and rest my wrists, but I still had a way to go and soon got back on the bike.

A new road was in the process of being constructed, which made the way one huge construction site. The hills encountered at the end of the day left me gasping for air, but I pushed on, and 5 km from Srae Amble, the weather came in again, and I pedalled like a woman possessed to reach the town before the storm broke. I reached the town just as raindrops started falling and pulled into the nearest Guest House. I was relieved I made it but soon discovered it was a brothel, LOL, not that I could care less as I was far too tired to be concerned about that.

 

19 October - Srae Ambel - Koh Kong – by bus

I was optimistic about the new road leading to the border being completed, but unfortunately, that wasn't the reality. Despite my determination to continue, the mud clogged the chain and gears, forcing me to stop and clear the wheels. What a mess! Seeking advice on the road conditions ahead, I stopped at a roadside eatery, only to be informed that the road was impassable for a bicycle. Although I usually take such warnings lightly, I decided to heed the advice this time. I was directed to a bus, where I was surprised to find no seats, just an open space. As we traversed the bumpy road, the driver and his companion were incredibly amiable, even buying me a coffee and offering water and a baguette. Initially told that the journey would take seven hours to cover 125 km, I was relieved when we arrived in Koh Kong after just 5 hours. I paid the driver 50,000 riel for the ride, which I thought was a bargain. He seemed content with the payment and even offered me change, which made me chuckle. Afterwards, I cycled around town searching for budget accommodation and found Rene’s Pasta Bar & Guesthouse, which offered a fan room for only $11. The room was sparkling clean, the staff helpful, and the food delicious. I couldn’t be happier.

 

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND

KOH KONG – PATTAYA

20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER

4 DAYS – 355 KM

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. My arrival in Chanthaburi was just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it remained virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back in Thailand and wasn't keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Richy Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien where I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.

172 Cycle Touring Laos (9)

                                    

   Cycle Touring Laos (9) 2024
13 September – 2 October 2024
964 Kilometres – 19 Days

MAP

 

13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 29 km

As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse. Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s the immigration office.

Pissed off, I cycled into the city, and with the result, almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood. Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and some not.

 

14 September – Vientiane

I woke to a drizzle, a drizzle which continued throughout the day. Later, I grabbed the umbrella and searched for a lens cap for my camera, which I lost the day before. It just wasn’t my day. I also wanted to get another mirror for the bicycle as I was in a country that drove on the opposite side of the road to Thailand. These two simple tasks kept me busy almost the entire day. In the process, I strolled past some of the oldest temples in Laos and numerous eateries, all offering traditional Lao food as well as international cuisine. Still, mostly, there was the ever-present baguette, which I enjoyed.

 

14 September – Vientiane – Pak Ngum – Dokphet Hotel. – 78 km

I woke to a bright, sunny Sunday morning and hurriedly packed up. My urgent departure was twofold: I wanted to get underway before more rain set in and before Vientiane woke up. Seeing I was early, I decided to swing by Buddha Park, situated just outside town on the banks of the Mekong River. The previous time I went there, it was along a terribly potholed dirt road, and I wasn’t sure I could get there, taking the rain of the past few days.

I was, therefore, surprised to find a new paved road and was grinning from ear to ear. Soon, however, I noticed the flooding, and most structures between the road and the river were already underwater. Thus, it was no surprise to find Buddha Park nearly completely submerged. Still, I continued along the new road, even though I was unsure if it would lead me to Route 13, the main road south to Cambodia. I sure hoped so, as I didn’t want to land on a muddy dirt track.

You may wonder why I didn’t just ask the people if the road to Route 13 was paved. I did try a few times, but they just smiled politely. The signs of flooding increased, and I noticed that the Military was called in to try and stem the flood waters by packing sandbags along the road. Still, the road was flooded in places, but I could get through. Eventually, I was delighted to find that the road spat me out on Route 13. My delight was short-lived as it was in such poor condition that it was downright dangerous. Not only is it a busy, narrow road, jampacked with busses, trucks, and cars, but the road has fallen in disrepair and now sports potholes the size of small cars. I kid you not! Luckily, I caught up with a “two-wheel tractor,” for lack of a better word, and sat in his slipstream for a few kilometres until he turned off.

The ride was stressful, and there was no time to enjoy the scenery, so when I spotted the Dokphet Hotel, I pulled in even though it was only 15h30. I needed to get my head around this road. The room was cheap as chips at 150,000 LAK (Lao kip) or $6.75. It is large and clean, and the complex is situated in a large, lush garden. With a restaurant just outside the complex, it was a real bargain. I felt that I would deal with the dreaded Route 13 the next day.

 

16 September - Pak Ngum, Dokphet Hotel – Paksan, BK Guesthouse – 86 km

I set out anew and was ready to tackle that horrid road. A massive storm came in during the night, which meant the potholes were filled with water and branches were strewn all over the road. It was a complete nightmare as I waded through the water, not knowing if large potholes were waiting to swallow me. In these flooded areas, it was better to wait and watch the cars and motorbikes to determine the best route to take. You can just imagine my delight when 10 kilometres down the drag, I reached a brand-new road. Hallelujah! I've never loved a road as much as that one! From then on, biking was easy, and I could enjoy the quintessential Laos scenery of farmlands (now flooded) with misty mountains in the distance.

Most rural people could be seen in the flooded areas, fishing net in hand and calling, “Sabai-dee, felang!” (Hello, foreigner!) on spotting me. The Laotians are gentle and very kind. Thus, there was no chance of a quick water stop as it usually comes with a photo shoot of the children. Even the shy ones will come closer. Too cute.

On reaching Paxan, I investigated a guesthouse indicated on the map. Again, the lady was super friendly. The little bungalow cost a mere 100,000 LAK (US$4.50) and came with air conditioning and a hot water shower (not that I needed a hot shower). Considering it a bargain, I stayed put.

 

17 September - Paksan, BK Guesthouse – Vieng Kham, Khamphone Keokhamphan Guest House - 90 km

On a beautiful, overcast morning, I set out to enjoy the mild weather. The road was in good condition, although the shoulder was, at times, pretty narrow. Still, it was easy cycling, and I enjoyed the scenery. I was again amazed at how easily the country folk adapted to the flooding. Each household had a boat, and even the youngest child could row.

I'm used to cycling through these villages, with a few young ones giving chase on their bicycles until a flip-flop or pedal comes off. I find it amusing that, nowadays, they give chase on an electric scooter! How times are changing.

I reached Vieng Kham around midday, and although early, I stayed the night. The room was even cheaper, at 80,000 LAK, but by far, it was not as nice as the previous night.

 

18-19 September – Vieng Kham – Thakhek -104 km

I had an incredibly restless night. I had just settled into bed around midnight when I was startled awake by an unexpected knock on the door at 1 a.m. It turned out to be a mistaken visit, but the adrenaline rush kept me wide awake. Unable to fall back asleep, I whiled away the early hours watching YouTube until I finally managed to turn off the lights at 3 a.m. My attempts to rest were further thwarted as I found myself awake before 6 a.m., lying in bed and listening to the relentless drumming of heavy rain outside. The downpour finally relented around 9 a.m., and I got underway.

By 10 a.m., I was drenched in sweat, labouring up the little inclines. After covering about 50 kilometres, it dawned on me that I desperately needed to stop and refuel, having had very little sleep and no breakfast. If I wanted to reach Thakhek, sustenance was a must. Following an omelette on rice at a local restaurant, the weather took a turn, and I encountered road construction with ominous clouds looming in the distance. Thankfully, the roadwork concluded after five kilometres, and the threatening clouds dissipated.

It was a stunning journey, with the magnificent Annamite Range always gracing my left side. Stretching across approximately 1,100 kilometres through Laos, Vietnam, and a small region in northeast Cambodia, the range offered a breath-taking display of typical Vietnamese scenery.

I rolled into the riverside town of Thakhek at around 5 p.m., secured an affordable room at the Mekong Hotel, and settled into a family room on the ground floor. Famished, I dined at the hotel's outdoor restaurant, savouring the view of the swift-flowing Mekong River and the sparkling city lights of Thailand.

 

20 September – Thakhek – Roadside Guesthouse – 75 km

I didn’t get underway until almost eleven, as it had rained nonstop since early evening the previous day. Eventually, I cycled out of Thakhek, and my decision to take the river road was clearly wrong. With all the rain, the road was one muddy, potholed mess, which slowed the ride to five kilometres in 30 minutes. Needless to say, it was frustrating, not to mention exhausting. There wasn’t anything one could do so I pushed on as best I could. It’s only 120 kilometres to Savannakhet, but after 75 kilometres and spotting a guesthouse, I called it a day as rain once more set in.

The lady charged me 100,000 LAK for the room, and I surmised I was overcharged. I guess she looked at this mud-covered person and thought that cleaning the room would be a whole day's affair. I wasn’t going to argue, as any room at $4.50 is a bargain. The only drawback was that the area was somewhat remote, and no food vendors were nearby. Thus, I hauled out the instant noodles I kept for such situations and went to bed early.

 

September 20 -21 - Roadside guesthouse - Savannakhet – 45km

I wasn't full of energy when I left my roadside accommodation, but luckily the road conditions improved. They weren't perfect, but they were better than the previous day.

I arrived in Savannakhet early, which gave me enough time to look for a few items I might need further south. There seemed to be few shopping facilities in the 460 kilometres between Savannakhet and Stung Treng in Cambodia, so it was best to stock up.

 

There's not much to do in Savannakhet, but I quite liked its collection of decaying French colonial buildings. However, at sunset, the town came alive with food stalls along the riverfront, and it was hard to believe it was the same place. I considered staying another day as I never got a chance to clean my muddy cycling gear or bicycle, and with a 30-day visa, there was no need to rush anywhere.

Between 1964 and 1973, the USA conducted one of the largest sustained aerial bombardments in history, flying 580,344 missions over Laos and dropping two million tonnes of bombs, costing US$2.2 million a day. Around 30% of the bombs dropped on Laos failed to detonate, leaving the country littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). For people all over eastern Laos (the most contaminated provinces being Xieng Khuang, Salavan, and Savannakhet), living with this appalling legacy has become an intrinsic part of daily life.

Hence, I stayed on the well-trodden path. I know it didn’t look like it, but at least I was on a road of sorts. I downloaded the book "The Ravens: The True Story Of A Secret War In Laos" and I guessed it was going to be a late night for me. I decided to do my laundry the next day. LOL.

The following day it rained nonstop, and I did little else but read and eat. I quite liked that. By late afternoon, the rain subsided and I walked out in search of more food.

 

23 September – Savannakhet – roadside accommodation – 107 km

Well-fed I biked out of Savannakhet despite the weather app predicting rain and thunderstorms. Luckily, the bad weather never materialised, and I enjoyed a pleasant overcast ride.

It was evident that it was the rainy season as I passed roadside stalls selling bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and lotus seeds. I also saw women walking their water buffalo to greener pastures and villagers fishing in the rice paddies, creating a typical Laos scene. Watching children play soccer among the cattle reminded me of Africa.

Around four o’clock, I spotted a guesthouse and called it a day. Since it was a roadside guesthouse, there wasn't a restaurant nearby. However, the person managing the guesthouse kindly went on his motorbike to get me a meal. It was quite interesting, to say the least. LOL. At least it came with a generous portion of rice, which would suffice until I found something in the morning.

 

24 September – Ying Luck Guest House - Bounmyxay Hotel – 74 km

I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation on a wet and overcast morning. Despite the weather, I felt happy to be on a bicycle with no particular destination in mind. It is such a privilege. I smiled at the typical scenes of Laos with cattle and herds of goats blocking the road. However, that came to an abrupt end when I encountered the dreadful potholes, causing traffic to move at a snail's pace. I think I found it easier to navigate on a bicycle. Nevertheless, I was amazed at the motorbike salespeople selling almost anything imaginable from a bike.

Realising that I hadn't had breakfast, I stopped for a bite to eat, which turned out to be an interesting affair, to say the least. At times, I felt it was more interesting for the staff than for me, as they hardly took their eyes off me. I must have made quite a sight.

With a full belly, I continued my journey, passing by raging rivers, luminous green rice fields, and the ever-present ornate temples until I spotted a hotel. Although it was still early, I decided to stop for the day to avoid getting caught in the afternoon storms. And because I did that, it never rained.

 

25-27 September - Bounmyxay Hotel – Pakse 64 km

When I woke, the nightly storm had passed, and I headed out into a wonderfully fresh morning, which made me smile. Energetic children greeted me with "Sabai-dee!" from their stilted homes.

The road was peppered with roadside markets selling bamboo shoots, freshly picked mushrooms, eels, and skewered grilled frogs and snails. Aided by a slight tailwind, I arrived in Pakse early and had plenty of time to find a place to stay. I think I found the best place in town. Kaemse Guest House is right on the Ex Don River, just before it flows into the Mekong, and at US$6 per night, I paid for two nights. At sunset, I sauntered along the bank of the Mekong and found the riverfront festive with the usual kiddie's carnival and food vendors.

I shouldn't have said the guesthouse is the best in town, as the room needed a serious scrubbing. So, I walked to the local convenience store and bought a bathroom cleaner and a can of insect repellent. LOL. Gosh, I sure stay in some weird places.

Seeing that I had paid for two nights, I slept in as I could feel a cold coming on and spent most of the day organising my photos, which were in quite a mess by then.

 

28 – 29 Pakse – Muang Champassak – 45 km

The journey to Champassak was relatively short, only 35 kilometres. I stopped in Champassak to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou. Although the ride was short, it was enjoyable, and the guesthouse I chose was so charming that I decided to stay for two nights. Instead of heading straight to the ruins, I cycled the Rice Field Trail, which seemed quite pleasant. Everything was going well for about five kilometres until the path turned into a clay pit, and I decided to turn back. Luckily, the guesthouse had a garden hose where I could wash off most of the clay. What a mess!

The next day, I cycled 10 kilometres to explore the remains of the ancient city, an excursion that kept me occupied the entire morning. I especially enjoyed climbing the hill to reach the highest level, where I was rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic view of the fields below. It's truly remarkable what they constructed on such a steep slope.

About a kilometre south lay the ruins of Prasat Hong Nang Sida, and I decided to head in that direction. As I made my way, I was accompanied by a lively seven-year-old girl who acted as my impromptu tour guide. She chattered animatedly in Lao throughout our walk, and although I couldn't understand her words, her enthusiasm and gestures indicated she was giving me historical information. Upon reaching the temple, which was being renovated, she sweetly took my hand, seemingly to ensure safety as we navigated the area. On our way back, she skipped ahead and picked us each a lotus leaf to shield us from the sun. How cute is that?

 

30 September - Muang Champassak – Do Khong island – 112 km

I started my day early, taking advantage of the dry weather. However, the day turned out to be slower than expected. I first had to cross the Mekong River by cycling to the Temple, from where wooden boats ferried passengers across the river. I was initially worried about getting my bicycle and bags onto the small boat, but after seeing them load motorbikes, I felt more at ease. We crossed the river without any issues.

Once on the main road, I enjoyed the beautiful scenery, despite feeling a bit under the weather. I observed young boys fearlessly jumping off a high bridge and also stopped at a roadside store for a noodle soup lunch, where I sat under strings of drying meat. Dark clouds appeared, and I anticipated getting caught in a storm. Shortly after, I heard a loud clap of thunder and sought shelter in an abandoned structure.

Upon reaching the ferry port to Si Phan Don, or the Four Thousand Islands, I was informed that there were no boats available. Unsure if it was due to the river being in flood, I found a bridge a few kilometres further south. Si Phan Don is a riverine archipelago in the Mekong River in southern Laos, known for its numerous islands and beautiful landscape. I decided to stay an extra day to update my journal, do the usual housekeeping and spend my remaining Lao kip before crossing the border, as it’s a currency that’s pretty useless anywhere else.

 

171 THAILAND - The South Coast and Beyond

 171 THAILAND 
The South Coast and Beyond – 2024

PHOTOS

THAILAND (22.2) – The South Coast

305 Km - 4 Days

10 July – 20 July 2024

 

July 10 - Pattaya – Rayong – 62 km

I was ready surprisingly early. Perhaps it was because I wasn’t embarking on a long journey, just a 10-day adventure before Dawn arrived on the 20th. I couldn’t wait for her visit and the fun activities we had planned (definitely not cycling, LOL). My time in Thailand was drawing to a close. I didn’t want to jinx it but, hopefully, I'll be able to leave Thailand (as much as I love it) before the year ends. Being holed up in nothing more than a hotel room for such a long time is challenging.

As I pedalled out of Jomtien, I couldn't help but chuckle. There's always an exhilarating feeling when I set off towards an unknown destination, even if the area is familiar. Despite the overcast weather, I daydreamed so much that I hardly took any pictures. Most of my time was spent figuring out my new Garmin watch. I still don’t know why I thought getting it was a good idea. It's too complicated, and I don't see much difference from my inexpensive Xiaomi Redmi watch. Oh well, what's done is done, and I'll have to make it work.

Reaching Rayong, I decided it was time to call it a day, mainly because the Richy Grant guesthouse is cheap as chips and provides washing machines and filtered water. Plus, there's a night market nearby! Before heading to the market, I should have grabbed a small bite to eat, as I returned with enough food to feed an army. The rest of the evening was spent reorganising my panniers while eating through my mountain of food.

 

11 July – Rayong – Roadside guest cottage – 85 km

The previous night, the sky put on a dramatic show with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. As the morning arrived, a drizzle persisted, giving me the perfect excuse to organise my belongings at leisure.

Finally, when the rain subsided, I set out. However, after a mere five kilometres, the rain returned, forcing me to seek refuge at a petrol station with an Amazon Café. The day, however, took a turn for the better, offering ideal cycling conditions with a gentle ocean breeze and a thin cloud cover, a complete contrast to the earlier deluge.

My progress was slow as I made adjustments every few kilometres – first, it was my watch, then the chain, and later, the tyres. I also took advantage of the conditions and frequently stopped to snap a few pics. It's always such a pleasure to cycle the South Coast. Around five o'clock, I stumbled upon charming roadside cottages with nearby shops and restaurants and thought it the perfect spot to spend the night.

 

12-13 July – Roadside cottage – Chanthaburi – 75 km

I woke up surprisingly early at six o’clock, made coffee, and sat listening to the many birds whistling their individual tunes. Later, I packed my belongings, said goodbye to the owner, and continued my bike ride along the coast.

It was a rather overcast day, but cycling the scenic route along the coast is always a privilege. Along the way, I stopped at a few viewpoints to enjoy the views, which no doubt came with a bit of a climb. With 20 kilometres left to go to Chanthaburi, I turned inland and passed emerald-green rice fields, which made the ornate Buddhist temples in the area even more striking.

When I arrived in Chanthaburi, I went straight to the old waterfront community and checked into Laluna River House. It's affordable at 420 THB per room and offers a lovely river view. Since I arrived early, I spent the rest of the day eating. The following day, I spent a super lazy day in Chanthaburi, not doing much except walking around the supermarket and investigating the old town.

The durian, also known as the "king of fruit" in Asia, remains, at least to me, one of the strangest fruits. Although native to Borneo and Sumatra, it is grown all over Southeast Asia. It is enormous, mostly 30 cm x 15 cm, and, as can be expected from such a large and heavy fruit, it grows on large branches directly on the trunk. It has a tough, spiky rind, which is nearly impossible to open unless you know what you are doing. It also comes with an overpowering (unpleasant?) odour. Despite this, it hides a soft, creamy flesh - a pricey delicacy in Thailand. I've never bought any as they are expensive, but I love durian-flavoured ice cream. The smell is so strong that most hotels and guesthouses don’t allow durian.

 

14 July - Chantaburi – Bo Rai Resort – 83 km

I was unsure where I wanted to go, so I followed minor roads until I reached the main road. Not feeling like spending time on the busy Sukhumvit Road, I veered off at the first opportunity. Soon, I found myself on a superb road heading north through dense forests. The area seemed seldom visited, as I hardly encountered any traffic or people. I was thus surprised and delighted to stumble upon quaint Bo Rai, which sported a lovely hotel and a 7-Eleven.

I also heard from my dear friend, Anil that he was in Pattaya. Since I had never managed to catch up with them when in India, and had promised to meet them in Pattaya, I hurriedly organised a ride back to Pattaya the following morning.

 

15 July – Bo Rai – Pattaya

And, just like that, I was back in Pattaya. Seeing Anil and his friends was lovely, and we spent an evening socialising at the Beer Garden in Pattaya.

As Dawn was arriving in four days, I decided to stay put.

 

19 July – 18 August

Dawn arrived, and it was a fun month of eating, drinking, and catching up with everyone. We spent a few days on Ko Samet and, as always, a few days in Bangkok, where we met Luke (her son) just before they flew home. We had plans to do much more, but the days flew by, and very few of our plans materialised.

 

20 August

Once back in Jomtien, I waited for my second bicycle to be serviced and started packing my panniers for my trip around Asia. I packed, cleaned the room, and got rid of loads of stuff I had collected during my stay in Jomtien—none of which I really needed and, indeed, not anything I would lug around with me on a bicycle trip.

 

 

THAILAND (22.3) – The Road North
Jomtien – Nong Khai
28 August - 13 September 2024
1 010 Km – 16 Days

 

 

28 August – Jomtien – Khao Khan Song – 85 km

It was 28 August before I cycled out of Jomtien. The day was anything but enjoyable, as I first had to swing by the Immigration Office to get a re-entry permit into Thailand to avoid losing my Non-Immigrant visa. This little procedure took the best part of two hours, and it was 11.30 a.m. before I collected my passport and got back on the bike.

Since I didn’t have a specific route in mind, I headed north. However, the minor roads I chose were jampacked with trucks and construction vehicles, making them a nightmare to navigate.

Major construction is taking place in the area, and I couldn’t find any available accommodation due to the rooms being occupied by permanent construction workers. I continued, hoping to find something, but eventually decided to call it a day as the traffic was downright dangerous. It took retracing my steps to where I saw a guesthouse much earlier in the day. Whew, it's time to look at the map again.

 

29 August - Khao Khan Song

Even though I say Khao Khan Song, I am not sure it is the name of the town, village or guesthouse as everything is written in Thai. I might have left too much in a hurry as a few outstanding tasks remained. Fortunately, just about anything can be done online. Since I had the luxury of a room with a chair and table as well as a veranda with a resident cat, I thought staying put was a good idea. My online business took the best part of the day, and once everything was done, it was already 5 p.m. and I ambled to the supermarket for my evening meal and beer.

 

30 August – Khao Khan Song – Bang Khla – 84 km

I saddled my old iron horse late in the morning and returned to the busy main road. Luckily, the road was new and had a generous shoulder almost as wide as the vehicle lanes. I veered off onto a smaller route only once, but my euphoria was short-lived as the path petered out.

I picked up a tailwind and blitzed it to charming Bang Khla, situated on the Bang Pakong River, without being rained on. That said, it started raining just as I cycled into town, and I pulled into the first available accommodation, resulting in my paying a tad more than usual, but I was rewarded with a lovely spacious room with aircon and hot water for $14. At least I was out of the madness and looking forward to the ride north, as there's plenty to see with a good mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

While enjoying a delicious plate of fried rice, it dawned on me that Thailand has its own table manners, similar to other cultures in the world and, fortunately, the rules of food etiquette are pretty simple. Spoons and forks are the main eating utensils in Thailand. Generally, in Thai, a spoon is called ‘chon’ and a fork ‘som’. The spoon is used to put food into the mouth, while the fork is used to scoop and arrange rice and food onto the spoon so it doesn’t fall off on its way to your mouth. Thai people mainly eat using a spoon and do not put a fork into their mouths. They don’t typically use a knife much while eating Thai food, as most dishes are served in bite-size pieces, so there is no need to use a knife.

 

31 August – Bang Kla – Nakhon Nayok – 90 km

In the morning, I first cycled a few kilometres to Wat Pho Bang Khla, believed to have been built during the reign of King Taksin the Great (between 1767 and 1782). The temple's architecture bears the influence of the Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin-period. The most interesting thing, though, is the temple's resident fruit bats, which reside in the trees within the temple grounds.

Next, I visited the floating market, which isn’t much of a floating market but rather resembles a food market on the banks of the river. My next stop was at Wat Pak Nam Jolo, another historical temple believed to have been built 200 years ago. From Bang Kla, a lovely ride took me along the Bang Pakong River.

Around midday, I felt hungry and stopped at a roadside shelter for a bite to eat. A very surprised lady quickly prepared a delicious meal of rice and spicy vegetables topped with a fried egg. All this happened without me speaking Thai or the lady any English. Hahaha!

Just before reaching Nakhon Nayok, I turned off to the ruins of the ancient town of Dong Lakhon. The area dates back from the ninth to eleventh centuries and not many remains of the structure except a well and a moat that surrounded the city. Still, it’s a lovely area to stroll about.

 

1 September – Nakhon Nayok – 50 km

I decided to extend my stay for an extra night and ventured into Khao Yai National Park in the hope of discovering stunning waterfalls. The park is enormous, covering over 2,000 square kilometres. Not only is it the oldest park in Thailand, but it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Being a beautiful Sunday morning and the park's proximity to Bangkok, nothing came of my visions of enjoying my 7-Eleven sandwich next to a waterfall with just the soothing sounds of nature. Still, the area is undeniably beautiful. If I ever find myself in the vicinity again, I will cycle through one gate and exit through another - that way, I will see far more, and I’m sure it will be less crowded.

 

2 September – Nakhon Nayok – Pasak Chonlasit Dam – 106 km

I had a delightful ride along my chosen route, which followed the boundaries of the National Park and led me through small communities. In these communities, it seemed like all the women were either using a mortar and pestle or cooking up something delicious in a wok, some so potent it made me sneeze.

The road was lined with frangipani trees and the air was filled with the smell of freshly cut grass. I didn't have a specific plan or destination in mind, so I followed the signs to the Pasak Chonlasit Dam. Since it was a Monday, there was only one other cyclist and a couple from elsewhere in Thailand at the campsite. They later came and asked if they could have a picture with me. It seems like I must make quite an impression! LOL.

 

3 September – Pasak Chonlasit Dam – Sa Kruat - 88 km

I woke up early, as the other cyclist in the camp was up at an ungodly hour. If you've ever slept in a hiking hut, you probably know the sound of those plastic bags. I always want to ask, “What are you looking for?” Hahaha! Then he started listening to his music, which must have sounded quite soothing to him as he relaxed looking out over the dam. Unfortunately, sound travels very well in environments like that, so I was also up at the crack of dawn. LOL.

As I cycled over the dam wall, I felt immensely grateful to be out and heading in a direction I wasn’t quite sure where it would lead to. My path followed the eastern shores of the dam, which was quiet with just a few motorbikes, herds of buffalo, a snake, and a large Shongololo. I couldn’t wish for more. At midday, I stopped for a plate of fried rice, which is always an interesting affair due to my being a foreigner and, as they say, “only one.”

When threatening clouds rolled in, I called it quits at the next village, which I think is Sa Kruat, in the Si Thep district. The reason for stopping there was twofold, as I was toying with the idea of going to the Si Thep Historical Park in the morning, but was still undecided.

 

4 September – Sa Kruat – Windy Guesthouse. Si Thep - 30 km

I woke up early, feeling well-rested and decided to visit the nearby Si Thep Historical Park. This archaeological site covers the ancient city of Si Thep, which was inhabited from the third to fifth century CE until the thirteenth century. Si Thep was one of the largest city-states in the plains of Central Thailand. In 2023, it was added to the World Heritage List as The Ancient Town of Si Thep.

After visiting the park, I checked into a guesthouse across the road to do laundry and fix the slow leak in the back wheel of my bicycle. Later, I cycled 1.5 kilometres to a supermarket and unexpectedly got caught in a heavy downpour. I waited at a shelter for about 10 minutes before continuing to the shop in the sunshine. Weird.

There is quite a story behind my order of fried rice tonight. When the person running the guesthouse asked if I wanted food, I said, "Fried rice," thinking they might take orders there. Instead, he hopped on his motorbike and travelled about two kilometres to a restaurant to get the meal. He came back soaked but the food was still piping hot! I felt it was fair to give him $2.5 for a $1.25 meal, as where else in the world can you get a home-delivered meal for $2.50?

 

5 September – Windy Guesthouse, Si Thep – Haus Luneburg, Phakdi Chumphon – 88 km

I first rode to Wichian Buri to buy a new inner tube because I had discarded one and I like to keep two spares. The people there were incredibly friendly. They not only directed me to a shop where I could buy what I needed but also gave me two bottles of water. This was very helpful since I ended up needing more water than I had expected due to the heat and the steep climb.

Despite the high temperature, the ride was amazing. I couldn’t seem to stick to a main road, and I soon found myself on a narrow secondary road passing through small communities. After crossing the pass, I encountered an ice cream vendor and couldn't resist buying some. It was served with sticky rice, small scoops of ice cream, peanuts, and a dash of condensed milk!

Fuelled by the sugar, I sped down the road, where I came to a screeching halt at Haus Luneburg, a lovely guesthouse with a swimming pool. I didn't waste any time unloading the bike before jumping into the pool with a Chang beer in hand.

 

6 September - Haus Luneburg – Resort roadside cottages – 103 km

Again, I was blessed with a stunning ride. Route 2037 has been an absolute delight to cycle. My path was littered with tiny hamlets, always with a temple, a school and a market. Midway, the weather came in, and in bucketing rain I continued as it wasn’t cold. The rain soon abated, and I continued until spotting roadside cottages.

Even though it was early, it looked like more rain ahead, and I called it a day. Stopping so early also meant there wasn’t much to do, and I did the dreaded laundry and went in search of a tap to wash the mud from the bike.

 

7 - 8 September -Roadside cottage – Khon Kaen – 110 km

I think I wore a permanent grin today as it was yet another fantastic ride through the countryside. The weather was great, the rice paddies were green, the corn stood high, and I counted myself among the luckiest people on the planet. The kilometres ticked by effortlessly, and not even the village dogs gave chase. With a stiff breeze on my back, I ambled through numerous settlements and colourful temples until reaching Khon Kaen, where I planned to stay for two days to do the necessary chores.

The following day, I did the laundry at a laundromat directly outside my abode. Later, I strolled around the city lake, a pleasant, shaded walk past numerous temples. Afterwards, I cycled to the bike shop, which was a lovely surprise as it was well-stocked and professional. They adjusted the gears and also fitted an odometer.

By evening, I stopped at the night market, where I found little for vegetarians except some freshly made French fries. Fearing it wouldn’t be enough, I also bought a pizza, which cost the same as my room. Well, if you want to eat foreign food, it's always costly.

 

9 September – Kong Kaen – Roadside cottage – 110 km

I slept surprisingly well on the lumpy mattress, but what can one expect for 350THB? After getting up at six a.m., I was ready to roll at 8 a.m. and found the city far more substantial than I had imagined. The morning traffic was challenging, but I realised I was in Thailand when drivers stopped to let me across the road. Only in Thailand!

I soon found myself amongst the rice paddies with my music blearing far too loud. The ride was pleasant and interesting as I came upon the holy pond at Ku Ban Na Kham Noi. I learned that the structures surrounding the pond were used as a hospital during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1177-1237) of the Khmer Empire. Then, I went on to the Cobra Village, but I didn’t linger as I didn’t think any animal wanted to be in captivity no matter how well they were treated.

Towards the end of the day, I veered off toward the main road, where one can find accommodation and other services. Once there, I found the road smooth as a baby’s bottom and pushed on a further 30 kilometres, even though I don’t like cycling on highways. When the weather came in, I pulled into the nearest guest accommodation and was pleased to find a cute 350THB bungalow. No lumpy mattress, and with air-con, fan, two bottles of water and clean bedding, I called it a bargain!

 

10 September – Roadside cottage to Ban Daeng - 100 km

I headed through the countryside and came upon a multitude of fascinating sites. Shortly after leaving, the map indicated a Monkey Park, and I investigated only to find an ordinary city park with outdoor gym equipment and volleyball courts overrun by monkeys. LOL. I don’t think anyone is using it, as the monkeys were a menace, and I didn’t dare leave the bike. So, it is a very aptly named Monkey Park.

Not much further was a large lake known as the Red Lotus Lake. I didn’t see any red lotus flowers; maybe their time was over, or there wasn’t enough water in the lake. Still, it was a peaceful ride along its shores and through rural villages where fishing seemed to be the main occupation.

Thirty kilometres or so later, I stumbled upon the remarkable Ban Chiang. The Ban Chiang Archaeological Site is a prehistoric human habitation and burial site. It is considered to be the most important prehistoric settlement discovered in Southeast Asia so far, marking the beginning and showing the development of the wet-rice culture typical of the region. The site has been dated by scientific chronometric means, which have established that the site was continuously occupied from 1495 BC until c. 900BC., making it the earliest scientifically dated prehistoric farming and habitation site in Southeast Asia known at the time of inscription onto the World Heritage List.

After leaving Ban Chiang, I made my way north toward the Laos border. My presence created quite a stir, and I had a distinct feeling that the area was seldom visited by foreigners. This was such a rural area that I never spotted any accommodation, and when it started raining, I pulled into the nearest Buddhist temple, where I asked if I could set up my tent. I was pointed to a large, covered area, and no sooner was the tent up and the lady monks started chanting. What a pleasant way to spend an evening.

 

11-12 September – Ban Daeng Temple – Nong Khai – 62 km

At three o'clock in the morning, the nuns were rummaging through their meagre belongings and by four, the chanting was in full swing. LOL. I was on the road by six, I’m sure it’s a record!

My first stop was at one of the food vendors, which is always an interesting experience. Riding was a wet affair, but I still reached Nong Khai before midday. My abode of choice was Mud Mee Guesthouse, a well-kept and inexpensive place right on the Mekong River. The guesthouse also has a lovely garden restaurant and coffee shop, and I paid for two nights as I felt tired. I did little of note for the rest of the day and, by evening, had a beer and a vegetarian green curry at the restaurant. A massive storm came in at night with loud thunder that shook the building! I was mighty pleased I wasn’t camping.

I slept in and, in the late morning, sauntered to the nearby supermarket to get a few items I may need in Laos. The day flew by, and I did nothing but stroll along the riverfront and watch the mighty Mekong flow by.

 

13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 29 km

As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse. Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s the immigration office.

Pissed off, I cycled into the city, with the result almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood. Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and some not.