174 Cycle Touring Thailand (23.1)

  

174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)

KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM

PHOTOS

MAP

  

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

My abode in Koh Kong was so comfortable that it made it hard to get moving in the morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht.

The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 kilometres, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12 o’clock. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90-kilometre ride to Trat.

The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Still, I persevered, knowing the ride ahead was beautiful and the road well-maintained. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 kilometres from Trat.

Fifteen kilometres from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining, and I couldn't help but think I must be crazy to cycle in this weather. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience.

Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck.

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Although this is usually a pleasant ride, I wasn't in the mood for cycling. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking a pleasant experience. I chose a delightful route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes.

I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few raindrops began to fall and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a few floors. Later, I strolled to the night market, which was always a fascinating affair, but it was impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to go back to Thailand and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my handy non-immigrant visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago.

Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 kilometres, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I finally found my key, though I had completely forgotten where I had put it.

Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in eight leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 kilometres.

 

 

174 THAILAND (23.1)

JOMTIEN - MALAYSIA

4 DECEMBER - 31 DECEMBER 2024

1,300 KILOMETRES – 24 DAYS

 

4 December – Jomtien

Jomtien, with its serene beaches and vibrant local life, had been an excellent base, and the days passed in a blur. In the evenings, the streets were filled with the scent of street food and bustling markets. My days were spent enjoying the local culture and preparing my bike for the anticipated long ride ahead. Yet, as departure day approached, unexpected setbacks tested my patience and resolve. My bike had undergone a thorough service, complete with brand-new components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water bottle. However, when I reached for the pump this morning, I found it was completely non-functional.

My panniers, already packed, stood ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike shop, but discovered they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me they would check their warehouse and get back to me in a few days.

In the meantime, I decided it might be wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs for a few more days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers. Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing on the 9th. If the pump hadn't appeared by then, I would have to improvise and make do without it. Adventure awaits!

 

7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri - 70km

I was mighty surprised when the bicycle pump arrived much earlier than anticipated. With a sense of urgency, I hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied my room in preparation for the ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien.

As I pedalled away, I quickly found myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness. Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.

To my dismay, I noticed that room prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the influx of weekend tourists. After some searching, I finally found a modest $12 room, which I considered perfectly satisfactory. It was a convenient, ground-floor motel-style accommodation, allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the mattress which was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay for.

 

8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan – 86 km

It dawned windy and overcast, casting a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly, I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10 a.m. The first leg of my ride was a delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane along a road built over the ocean.

However, the tranquillity soon faded as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially with construction work disrupting the flow.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodation proved fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option.

Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time, dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far more than one person could reasonably devour.

 

9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram – 86 km

In a desperate bid to avoid the notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in loading and unloading the bicycle from the ferry.

Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through a maze of small paths, leading me on a detour to a dolphin-watching area, where I hoped to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through the air.

Eventually, I landed on the service road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.

This region of Thailand is like a vast floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here, flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the community and its culture. Fascinating.

The following day was spent relaxing. I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the necessary housekeeping.

 

11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 100 km

I woke up energetic. I am sure it was due to all the eating I had the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to join the scenic route heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.

For once, I met another lady cyclist who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued at our own pace.

With a stiff breeze from behind, I flew right past Phetchaburi, where I thought I might overnight to explore the nearby caves. The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds during their migration south, and I kept a keen eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper, but didn’t see many birds that day.

Most of the way was on a cycle path or a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30 p.m. I didn’t wait for the night market, as I was starving, and grabbed a bit to eat from one of the street vendors.

 

12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km

The route along this coast is one of my favourite rides, as it is truly stunning. Add a stiff tailwind, and I found myself grinning from ear to ear.

I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off to the beautiful Pranburi and then heading south to Sam Roi Yot, before entering Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This scenic park is famous for its numerous beautiful caves and beaches, but I headed straight to the Sam Phraya Beach camp site. Initially, it was a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby shop about three kilometres away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear friend Esther Burns will say.

Walking along the deserted beach made me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water, a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy as the proverbial pig.

I thought I was the only guest there, but the restaurant remained open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.

 

13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping – Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km

I woke to a slight drizzle and hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once I was on my way, the drizzle grew heavier, which I did not enjoy. I stepped on the pedals and gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 kilometres away, where I came to a screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay.

Staying at Maggie's is always an enjoyable experience, and this time was no exception. UK John has been there for over a year, and USA Mike, who relocated from Indonesia, seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on the island of Sumatra, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.

I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening chatting to the other guests.

I did absolutely zilch the next day except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.

 

15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan -102km

I nearly stayed an extra day at Maggie's, as almost everyone extended their stay there. However, with the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of the favourable conditions and hit the road.

As I left Prachuap, the sea was more turbulent than it had been the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade and onto the road, and I opted for an alternative route.

With the wind at my back, I sped down the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited. I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go ahead. Once past the park’s boundary, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and still he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to Bang Krut.

In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often encounter wonderful people during my travels.

I continued cycling until I reached Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers and causing the campsite to close. As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.

 

16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen Beach – 110 km

When I left Bang Saphan, it was already late, but with a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations.

As the wind picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and the ever-present Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a few urgent matters.

Ultimately, I realised it was better to relocate to Chumphon town, which had all the necessary facilities. Once in Chumphon, I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days. Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist to create a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and then take a bus back to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I decided to stay and additional three days.

There really isn’t much to do in Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and I learned to say “law-tis” instead of lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it wrong.

 

23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman Bangalow – 84 km

At last, I left Chumphon, even though I had received no word about the retainer I had ordered from the dentist. I was peed off, to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I slowly made my way further south.

The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the ocean, and at other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure.

When I spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist the basic accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy north-easterly winds. Later, I cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and then sat on my small veranda watching the angry waves.

 

24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows – Surat Thani – 123 km

It was already late when I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I was grateful for the opportunity to live this life.

With all my stopping, it was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to the well-known My Place Hotel, as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the fourth floor.

I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani, a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, others temple paraphernalia, or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.

 

26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 107 km

At first, I considered following the coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the ride much easier.

The most enjoyable moment of the day was meeting a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling. Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the main road, I decided to call it a day.

 

27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si Thammarat – 27 km

I left my humble abode on a wet and grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, even though it occasionally poured heavily. I remembered Valentine, the Russian gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it best to find a place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.

There isn’t much to do in Si Thammarat, but I walked to explore the remaining sections of the old city wall. It led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and eventually through Sanam Na Muang Park.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the red finger I often see along the road represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally, I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still very much alive in Thailand. Rain or shine, I planned to move on the next day.

 

28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn Resort – 93 km

As soon as I left, I found myself on my usual route through coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent rain, I enjoyed biking this stretch. My chosen path eventually led me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable as on previous days, the ride remained easy and the weather cleared around midday.

Around four o'clock, however, the weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track next to the ocean. The prices were higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further. The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!

 

29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla – 84 km

Early in the morning, the wind was already strong, stirring the sea into even rougher waves than the day before. At first, I considered following the coastal road, but the crosswind was too unpleasant, so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How spoiled I've become!

Still, I found a surprising amount of history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I neared Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch cemetery. It appears that the Dutch were also present under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards, I found a ferry operating across the opening of Songkhla Lake, saving me 10 to 15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.

Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was located in the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.

I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the supermarket at the mall, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found most interesting was how busy the mall was. I thought I was the only foreigner there, which attracted quite a few stares.

Although Thailand celebrates the Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting distance of Malaysia and, as a result, there is a strong Malay culture prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.

 

31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar – 85 km

As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in the old town and continuing along the shores of Lake Songkla. I passed the large city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via secondary roads.

I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for the night, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However, whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.

Today was no different and before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing! Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and into Malaysia.

Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian ringgit is somewhat stronger than the Thai baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 ringgit per USD, while the Thai baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia.

I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already past four o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few kilometres can make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was an abundance of food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found, and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!

 

173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)

 173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)
2 October - 19 October 2024
1 042 Km – 17 Days

MAP

 

 

2-3 October - Muang Khong - Stung Treng - 100 km

I began my day with a steaming cup of coffee as I prepared for my ride across the bridge to join Route 13 South. Despite the brisk wind tugging at my clothes, I felt a surge of excitement at the prospect of returning to Cambodia after nearly five years when I cycled the country with my friends Megan, Erma, and Janice.

The process of getting stamped out of Laos turned out to be surprisingly straightforward, despite the border post's notorious reputation for bribery. The officers requested a $2 stamp fee, but I firmly declined, and they didn't push the issue. The Cambodian immigration process was much smoother, and I paid the $35 visa fee before resuming my journey.

The road leading south was in a sorry state due to ongoing repairs, covered in a thick layer of gravel that made cycling a challenge. Fortunately, motorbikes had carved out a single track next to the road. Although signs periodically indicated the "End of road work," the gravel would quickly reappear, and I kept reassuring myself with the mantra, "This too shall pass."

On a more positive note, I had the pleasure of meeting another cyclist from Japan who was also on a cycling adventure through Asia. I also discovered that Cambodia was in the midst of celebrating Pchum Ben, or the Festival of the Ancestors, one of the country's most significant and grandest festivals. I caught glimpses of the festivities, witnessing two-wheel tractors laden with villagers passing by in the opposite direction.

By the time I arrived in Stung Treng, it was late, and I struggled to find a hotel with available rooms, most likely due to the festivities. I settled for one that offered an air-conditioned room with a window for $12, but I found the cleanliness lacking, and I wondered if my frugality was worth it.

I decided to stay in Stung Treng the next day to withdraw Cambodian Riel or Khmer Riel (KHR) (4 000 KHR = 1 US$), a SIM card, and take care of a few other things.

 

4 October – Stung Streng – Preah Vihear – 140 km

I felt remarkably energetic, and the weather and the road were good. As a result, I pushed on. I forgot just how scenic Cambodia is. Numerous unusual sights kept me occupied, and I again realised just how comfortable the Cambodians are on a motorbike, as twice I saw people returning from the clinic with an IV drip bag on a stick attached to their arm.

I don't know what was in the drink I bought from a roadside vendor as I was so energetic that I cycled the 140 km to Preah Vihear. Once there I was more than happy to find Javier Guest House, which has a lovely large room for only $7.

 

5 October – Preah Vihear – Phumi Moreal, Heng Heng Guest House – 83 km

I wasn’t all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and my morning search for a baguette revealed nothing, so I got on the road and headed toward Siam Reap. Again, the scenery was unsurpassed, and it turned out to be a lovely day of riding. Sixty km later, I came upon Koh Ker, a UNESCO World Heritage and Archaeological Site. This Ancient capital of the Khmer Empire between 921 and 944 CE is now partially hidden in a dense forest; I dropped my bags at a guesthouse and went exploring. It was after six p.m. that I returned and headed straight to a restaurant, starving.

 

6 October – Phumi Moreal – Siam Reap – 100 km

It rained throughout the night, and I could still hear it pouring when I woke up. I stayed in bed with a coffee and played on my phone until I heard that the rain subsided. It was thus late morning by the time I saddled my old iron horse for the ride to Siam Reap. I felt immensely happy to be on the bike, pedalling down a rural road. The sound of children calling “Hello Farang” always brought a smile to my face, their voices blending with the sound of cattle. If you didn’t respond, they would keep calling louder and louder, their excitement echoing through the countryside.

This is such a rural part of Cambodia that, at times, I could imagine I'm on a different planet. By the time I neared touristy Siam Reap, I was somewhat taken aback by the urgency of the drivers and the chaotic dance of traffic, which sharply contrasted with the peaceful countryside. Still, I joined this dance and made my way to Smiley Guesthouse, which has ground-floor budget rooms and a swimming pool. It’s a good place to lay low, and I paid for three nights.

On stepping out, I thought I could easily spend the three days eating as the aroma of the local delicacies wafted through the air. I imagined myself exploring all the culinary delights of the area.

The following day, I took the bicycle to the bike shop to be cleaned and oiled. I was shocked at the prices in Siam Reap. When prices are quoted in US$, you know you have been overcharged. So, nothing much came of eating at all the restaurants that looked so inviting the previous evening as they were clearly priced with tourists in mind. Eventually, I grabbed a baguette with egg and salad from a mobile vendor at less than half the price at the sit-down restaurants. I also handed in my laundry to get a proper machine wash as it’s a fee I never complain about.

 

9 October Siam Reap – Stoung – 102 km

I made a bit of a detour because I didn’t want to cycle along the main road, but the minor road I chose soon spat me out on the main road south. I guess I’ll never get used to Cambodia's ingenious means of transport. There is nothing they cannot transport by bicycle or a two-wheel tractor.

Once away from Siam Reap, the road was quiet and a pleasure to cycle. The rain lasted no more than 10 minutes, and soon, the sun was shining bright again. I met the nicest people; a man stopped and handed me a Pocari Sweat. How nice was that? Later, I stopped to take a break and met a mum and her daughter who could speak some English. She was ever so helpful, and we took a few selfies.

I was on the old Khmer highway between Angkor and Phnom Penh. It's a new road today, but surprisingly, the Kampong Kdei Bridge is still in use. Built in the 12th century, Spean Praptos, also known as Kampong Kdei Bridge, used to be the longest corbeled stone-arch bridge in the world, with over twenty narrow arches spanning 87 metres.

I arrived in Stoung around four p.m. It is a typical Cambodian small town with a market, a temple, muddy roads, a petrol station, bug vendors, and the ever-present mobile food carts. My guest house cost 8 Dollars, and the room was as big as a dancehall. Taking the stir my presence created, I didn’t think a farang had ever stayed at this establishment; great was my surprise thus when I discovered a young American lady also staying at the guesthouse and travelling by bicycle. She was heading to Siam Reap and this was her fourth day on her first cycling holiday.

 

10 October - Stoung – Won With Guest House – 110 km

In a 2021 survey, it was found that approximately 63 percent of households in Cambodia are engaged in agricultural production. It's thus common to see wooden houses on stilts with chickens, buffalos, cows, palm and mango trees next to rice fields. Today, I came across many "Ambok" or flattened rice producers along the road. The rice seemed to be first roasted in a pan with a mechanical stirrer, then pounded in a wooden bowl and separated from the husk in a sieve. During the rice harvest, some rice is specially prepared for certain Khmer ceremonies and family gatherings. I regret not buying any, but hopefully, I'll find them again tomorrow. After 110 km, I found Win With Guesthouse, a perfect spot midway between Phnom Penh and Stoung. Once again, the experience of finding food was fascinating and amusing.

 

11 October – Win With or Von Vith guest house - Phnom Penh 110km

The ride to Phnom Pehn was surprisingly easy, as it is a new road. Still, it was pretty boring, and I believe that my ride along the river trail was far more interesting. However, it was easy riding, although not much happened except for stopping at Skun, known as Spider Village. The reason is that it’s a place well known for the exotic cuisine of tarantulas. Vendors sold deep-fried tarantulas coated in garlic and chillies, and although the aroma was appetising, I don’t think I can ever get myself to eat a tarantula. The last stretch into the capital was easy-going except for the chaotic traffic. I rarely made a booking, but this time I did, and as always, it was a total disaster, and I didn’t stay at the place booked. I, however, easily found a room as just about every second building in Phnom Pehn is a guesthouse.

I stayed in Phnom Penh for three nights as I quite like the place, and I had the usual housekeeping to attend to. I also met up with Matt, a friend for many years and we had supper at the Addis Restaurant. I love Ethiopian food, and the food at Addis is excellent and it made for a lovely and relaxing evening.

 

14 October – Phnom Penh – Krong Doun Kaev – 103 km

As I left the bustling city of Phnom Penh, I found myself navigating through the chaotic Monday morning traffic. It always takes some time to adjust to the constant flow of vehicles and the need to trust the traffic around me. Once I cleared the city limits, I followed a narrow path along the serene Bassac River. A sign directed towards Chisor Mountain Temple caught my eye, prompting me to change my course to the west. To my delight, I stumbled upon the ancient ruins of this 11th-century temple perched high on a hill, accessible by a lengthy staircase. Despite the heat and swarms of mosquitoes, I persevered and was delighted to reach the remains of this old temple. However, my battle with the mosquitoes eventually forced me to cut my visit short. By the time I finished, it was already late afternoon, but I decided to cycle to the next village, which was only 30 km away.

 

15-17 - October – Krong Doun Kaev – Kampot - 86 km

Again, the Main Road to Kampot was a dead boring affair. That said, the road was new, wide and in good condition, so I shouldn’t complain. It’s just that I don’t like such predictability. In any event, I stuck to the main road and soon landed in the lovely riverside town of Kampot. I’ve visited Kampot on many occasions and this time I chose to stay in the village. Good Morning Kampot Guesthouse was an ideal place to stay as it was slap bang in the centre and right on the river. It also offered spacious budget rooms on the upper floors with a restaurant below. Reviews stated that the food was excellent; I think whoever made those comments must have been British, as the food was so bland that I had to ask for a portion of fresh chillies to make it more palatable. LOL

I paid for two nights and was thus slow to rise the following morning. With no plans for the day, I handed in my laundry as whenever I have a chance of having my laundry done for a dollar, I can’t resist. I did truly little the rest of the day except visit the Kampot market as no one can be in Kampot and not go to the market or buy the famous Kampot pepper, known as the best pepper in the world.

I was up early to collect my laundry, but the lady couldn’t find it and asked that I return later. There wasn’t much to do in Kampot, so I took my bicycle and cycled to the old fishing village on the opposite side of the river. Much later, I returned and was happy to find that my laundry was located. I was so happy that I treated myself to Nachos & Gaugamela in Kampot Alley, where noodles are still handmade, and something is always steaming in a pot.

 

18 October – Kampot – Srae Ambel – 108 km

After doing almost nothing for two full days, I felt pretty energetic and was eager to get underway. I had no specific plan and contemplated going to Sihanoukville.

The day started with a lovely scenic ride, and I was happy to be out on the bike. This euphoria, however, came to a grinding halt when the paved road abruptly disappeared after approximately 25 km. It was not a disaster until I realised this was no ordinary dirt road but one that had been neglected for years, and I thought it resembled a minefield (not that I knew what it looked like). In any event, I persevered, bouncing over the potholes and slip-sliding through the muddy patches. Conditions worsened as the day progressed, and I had my eye set on the junction 20 km away, believing conditions would improve from there. I clawed onto the handlebars for dear life, and after 5 km, I stopped to take a breather, feeling happy I managed 5 km. My wrists and arms felt shaky, but I returned to the bike, determined to reach the main road. And so it went until I reached the junction.

It was already quite late, and instead of going to Sihanoukville, I decided to head straight to Srae Ambel. You can imagine my surprise when I found the road (although paved) in dreadful condition, busy and narrow. So narrow was the road that two trucks could barely pass one another, let alone avoid bicycles or motorbikes. Motorbikes mainly used the no-man’s land next to the paved road, and I followed suit. This was no easy ride as the no-man’s land wasn’t meant for vehicles and was by then potholed and muddy. I was in this mess and had to persevere. The continuous rain didn’t make the ride any more manageable. Once, I stopped for coffee to get out of the rain and rest my wrists, but I still had a way to go and soon got back on the bike.

A new road was in the process of being constructed, which made the way one huge construction site. The hills encountered at the end of the day left me gasping for air, but I pushed on, and 5 km from Srae Amble, the weather came in again, and I pedalled like a woman possessed to reach the town before the storm broke. I reached the town just as raindrops started falling and pulled into the nearest Guest House. I was relieved I made it but soon discovered it was a brothel, LOL, not that I could care less as I was far too tired to be concerned about that.

 

19 October - Srae Ambel - Koh Kong – by bus

I was optimistic about the new road leading to the border being completed, but unfortunately, that wasn't the reality. Despite my determination to continue, the mud clogged the chain and gears, forcing me to stop and clear the wheels. What a mess! Seeking advice on the road conditions ahead, I stopped at a roadside eatery, only to be informed that the road was impassable for a bicycle. Although I usually take such warnings lightly, I decided to heed the advice this time. I was directed to a bus, where I was surprised to find no seats, just an open space. As we traversed the bumpy road, the driver and his companion were incredibly amiable, even buying me a coffee and offering water and a baguette. Initially told that the journey would take seven hours to cover 125 km, I was relieved when we arrived in Koh Kong after just 5 hours. I paid the driver 50,000 riel for the ride, which I thought was a bargain. He seemed content with the payment and even offered me change, which made me chuckle. Afterwards, I cycled around town searching for budget accommodation and found Rene’s Pasta Bar & Guesthouse, which offered a fan room for only $11. The room was sparkling clean, the staff helpful, and the food delicious. I couldn’t be happier.

 

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND

KOH KONG – PATTAYA

20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER

4 DAYS – 355 KM

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. My arrival in Chanthaburi was just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it remained virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back in Thailand and wasn't keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Richy Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien where I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.

172 Cycle Touring Laos (9)

                                    

   Cycle Touring Laos (9) 2024
13 September – 2 October 2024
964 Kilometres – 19 Days

MAP

 

13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 29 km

As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse. Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s the immigration office.

Pissed off, I cycled into the city, and with the result, almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood. Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and some not.

 

14 September – Vientiane

I woke to a drizzle, a drizzle which continued throughout the day. Later, I grabbed the umbrella and searched for a lens cap for my camera, which I lost the day before. It just wasn’t my day. I also wanted to get another mirror for the bicycle as I was in a country that drove on the opposite side of the road to Thailand. These two simple tasks kept me busy almost the entire day. In the process, I strolled past some of the oldest temples in Laos and numerous eateries, all offering traditional Lao food as well as international cuisine. Still, mostly, there was the ever-present baguette, which I enjoyed.

 

14 September – Vientiane – Pak Ngum – Dokphet Hotel. – 78 km

I woke to a bright, sunny Sunday morning and hurriedly packed up. My urgent departure was twofold: I wanted to get underway before more rain set in and before Vientiane woke up. Seeing I was early, I decided to swing by Buddha Park, situated just outside town on the banks of the Mekong River. The previous time I went there, it was along a terribly potholed dirt road, and I wasn’t sure I could get there, taking the rain of the past few days.

I was, therefore, surprised to find a new paved road and was grinning from ear to ear. Soon, however, I noticed the flooding, and most structures between the road and the river were already underwater. Thus, it was no surprise to find Buddha Park nearly completely submerged. Still, I continued along the new road, even though I was unsure if it would lead me to Route 13, the main road south to Cambodia. I sure hoped so, as I didn’t want to land on a muddy dirt track.

You may wonder why I didn’t just ask the people if the road to Route 13 was paved. I did try a few times, but they just smiled politely. The signs of flooding increased, and I noticed that the Military was called in to try and stem the flood waters by packing sandbags along the road. Still, the road was flooded in places, but I could get through. Eventually, I was delighted to find that the road spat me out on Route 13. My delight was short-lived as it was in such poor condition that it was downright dangerous. Not only is it a busy, narrow road, jampacked with busses, trucks, and cars, but the road has fallen in disrepair and now sports potholes the size of small cars. I kid you not! Luckily, I caught up with a “two-wheel tractor,” for lack of a better word, and sat in his slipstream for a few kilometres until he turned off.

The ride was stressful, and there was no time to enjoy the scenery, so when I spotted the Dokphet Hotel, I pulled in even though it was only 15h30. I needed to get my head around this road. The room was cheap as chips at 150,000 LAK (Lao kip) or $6.75. It is large and clean, and the complex is situated in a large, lush garden. With a restaurant just outside the complex, it was a real bargain. I felt that I would deal with the dreaded Route 13 the next day.

 

16 September - Pak Ngum, Dokphet Hotel – Paksan, BK Guesthouse – 86 km

I set out anew and was ready to tackle that horrid road. A massive storm came in during the night, which meant the potholes were filled with water and branches were strewn all over the road. It was a complete nightmare as I waded through the water, not knowing if large potholes were waiting to swallow me. In these flooded areas, it was better to wait and watch the cars and motorbikes to determine the best route to take. You can just imagine my delight when 10 kilometres down the drag, I reached a brand-new road. Hallelujah! I've never loved a road as much as that one! From then on, biking was easy, and I could enjoy the quintessential Laos scenery of farmlands (now flooded) with misty mountains in the distance.

Most rural people could be seen in the flooded areas, fishing net in hand and calling, “Sabai-dee, felang!” (Hello, foreigner!) on spotting me. The Laotians are gentle and very kind. Thus, there was no chance of a quick water stop as it usually comes with a photo shoot of the children. Even the shy ones will come closer. Too cute.

On reaching Paxan, I investigated a guesthouse indicated on the map. Again, the lady was super friendly. The little bungalow cost a mere 100,000 LAK (US$4.50) and came with air conditioning and a hot water shower (not that I needed a hot shower). Considering it a bargain, I stayed put.

 

17 September - Paksan, BK Guesthouse – Vieng Kham, Khamphone Keokhamphan Guest House - 90 km

On a beautiful, overcast morning, I set out to enjoy the mild weather. The road was in good condition, although the shoulder was, at times, pretty narrow. Still, it was easy cycling, and I enjoyed the scenery. I was again amazed at how easily the country folk adapted to the flooding. Each household had a boat, and even the youngest child could row.

I'm used to cycling through these villages, with a few young ones giving chase on their bicycles until a flip-flop or pedal comes off. I find it amusing that, nowadays, they give chase on an electric scooter! How times are changing.

I reached Vieng Kham around midday, and although early, I stayed the night. The room was even cheaper, at 80,000 LAK, but by far, it was not as nice as the previous night.

 

18-19 September – Vieng Kham – Thakhek -104 km

I had an incredibly restless night. I had just settled into bed around midnight when I was startled awake by an unexpected knock on the door at 1 a.m. It turned out to be a mistaken visit, but the adrenaline rush kept me wide awake. Unable to fall back asleep, I whiled away the early hours watching YouTube until I finally managed to turn off the lights at 3 a.m. My attempts to rest were further thwarted as I found myself awake before 6 a.m., lying in bed and listening to the relentless drumming of heavy rain outside. The downpour finally relented around 9 a.m., and I got underway.

By 10 a.m., I was drenched in sweat, labouring up the little inclines. After covering about 50 kilometres, it dawned on me that I desperately needed to stop and refuel, having had very little sleep and no breakfast. If I wanted to reach Thakhek, sustenance was a must. Following an omelette on rice at a local restaurant, the weather took a turn, and I encountered road construction with ominous clouds looming in the distance. Thankfully, the roadwork concluded after five kilometres, and the threatening clouds dissipated.

It was a stunning journey, with the magnificent Annamite Range always gracing my left side. Stretching across approximately 1,100 kilometres through Laos, Vietnam, and a small region in northeast Cambodia, the range offered a breath-taking display of typical Vietnamese scenery.

I rolled into the riverside town of Thakhek at around 5 p.m., secured an affordable room at the Mekong Hotel, and settled into a family room on the ground floor. Famished, I dined at the hotel's outdoor restaurant, savouring the view of the swift-flowing Mekong River and the sparkling city lights of Thailand.

 

20 September – Thakhek – Roadside Guesthouse – 75 km

I didn’t get underway until almost eleven, as it had rained nonstop since early evening the previous day. Eventually, I cycled out of Thakhek, and my decision to take the river road was clearly wrong. With all the rain, the road was one muddy, potholed mess, which slowed the ride to five kilometres in 30 minutes. Needless to say, it was frustrating, not to mention exhausting. There wasn’t anything one could do so I pushed on as best I could. It’s only 120 kilometres to Savannakhet, but after 75 kilometres and spotting a guesthouse, I called it a day as rain once more set in.

The lady charged me 100,000 LAK for the room, and I surmised I was overcharged. I guess she looked at this mud-covered person and thought that cleaning the room would be a whole day's affair. I wasn’t going to argue, as any room at $4.50 is a bargain. The only drawback was that the area was somewhat remote, and no food vendors were nearby. Thus, I hauled out the instant noodles I kept for such situations and went to bed early.

 

September 20 -21 - Roadside guesthouse - Savannakhet – 45km

I wasn't full of energy when I left my roadside accommodation, but luckily the road conditions improved. They weren't perfect, but they were better than the previous day.

I arrived in Savannakhet early, which gave me enough time to look for a few items I might need further south. There seemed to be few shopping facilities in the 460 kilometres between Savannakhet and Stung Treng in Cambodia, so it was best to stock up.

 

There's not much to do in Savannakhet, but I quite liked its collection of decaying French colonial buildings. However, at sunset, the town came alive with food stalls along the riverfront, and it was hard to believe it was the same place. I considered staying another day as I never got a chance to clean my muddy cycling gear or bicycle, and with a 30-day visa, there was no need to rush anywhere.

Between 1964 and 1973, the USA conducted one of the largest sustained aerial bombardments in history, flying 580,344 missions over Laos and dropping two million tonnes of bombs, costing US$2.2 million a day. Around 30% of the bombs dropped on Laos failed to detonate, leaving the country littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). For people all over eastern Laos (the most contaminated provinces being Xieng Khuang, Salavan, and Savannakhet), living with this appalling legacy has become an intrinsic part of daily life.

Hence, I stayed on the well-trodden path. I know it didn’t look like it, but at least I was on a road of sorts. I downloaded the book "The Ravens: The True Story Of A Secret War In Laos" and I guessed it was going to be a late night for me. I decided to do my laundry the next day. LOL.

The following day it rained nonstop, and I did little else but read and eat. I quite liked that. By late afternoon, the rain subsided and I walked out in search of more food.

 

23 September – Savannakhet – roadside accommodation – 107 km

Well-fed I biked out of Savannakhet despite the weather app predicting rain and thunderstorms. Luckily, the bad weather never materialised, and I enjoyed a pleasant overcast ride.

It was evident that it was the rainy season as I passed roadside stalls selling bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and lotus seeds. I also saw women walking their water buffalo to greener pastures and villagers fishing in the rice paddies, creating a typical Laos scene. Watching children play soccer among the cattle reminded me of Africa.

Around four o’clock, I spotted a guesthouse and called it a day. Since it was a roadside guesthouse, there wasn't a restaurant nearby. However, the person managing the guesthouse kindly went on his motorbike to get me a meal. It was quite interesting, to say the least. LOL. At least it came with a generous portion of rice, which would suffice until I found something in the morning.

 

24 September – Ying Luck Guest House - Bounmyxay Hotel – 74 km

I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation on a wet and overcast morning. Despite the weather, I felt happy to be on a bicycle with no particular destination in mind. It is such a privilege. I smiled at the typical scenes of Laos with cattle and herds of goats blocking the road. However, that came to an abrupt end when I encountered the dreadful potholes, causing traffic to move at a snail's pace. I think I found it easier to navigate on a bicycle. Nevertheless, I was amazed at the motorbike salespeople selling almost anything imaginable from a bike.

Realising that I hadn't had breakfast, I stopped for a bite to eat, which turned out to be an interesting affair, to say the least. At times, I felt it was more interesting for the staff than for me, as they hardly took their eyes off me. I must have made quite a sight.

With a full belly, I continued my journey, passing by raging rivers, luminous green rice fields, and the ever-present ornate temples until I spotted a hotel. Although it was still early, I decided to stop for the day to avoid getting caught in the afternoon storms. And because I did that, it never rained.

 

25-27 September - Bounmyxay Hotel – Pakse 64 km

When I woke, the nightly storm had passed, and I headed out into a wonderfully fresh morning, which made me smile. Energetic children greeted me with "Sabai-dee!" from their stilted homes.

The road was peppered with roadside markets selling bamboo shoots, freshly picked mushrooms, eels, and skewered grilled frogs and snails. Aided by a slight tailwind, I arrived in Pakse early and had plenty of time to find a place to stay. I think I found the best place in town. Kaemse Guest House is right on the Ex Don River, just before it flows into the Mekong, and at US$6 per night, I paid for two nights. At sunset, I sauntered along the bank of the Mekong and found the riverfront festive with the usual kiddie's carnival and food vendors.

I shouldn't have said the guesthouse is the best in town, as the room needed a serious scrubbing. So, I walked to the local convenience store and bought a bathroom cleaner and a can of insect repellent. LOL. Gosh, I sure stay in some weird places.

Seeing that I had paid for two nights, I slept in as I could feel a cold coming on and spent most of the day organising my photos, which were in quite a mess by then.

 

28 – 29 Pakse – Muang Champassak – 45 km

The journey to Champassak was relatively short, only 35 kilometres. I stopped in Champassak to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou. Although the ride was short, it was enjoyable, and the guesthouse I chose was so charming that I decided to stay for two nights. Instead of heading straight to the ruins, I cycled the Rice Field Trail, which seemed quite pleasant. Everything was going well for about five kilometres until the path turned into a clay pit, and I decided to turn back. Luckily, the guesthouse had a garden hose where I could wash off most of the clay. What a mess!

The next day, I cycled 10 kilometres to explore the remains of the ancient city, an excursion that kept me occupied the entire morning. I especially enjoyed climbing the hill to reach the highest level, where I was rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic view of the fields below. It's truly remarkable what they constructed on such a steep slope.

About a kilometre south lay the ruins of Prasat Hong Nang Sida, and I decided to head in that direction. As I made my way, I was accompanied by a lively seven-year-old girl who acted as my impromptu tour guide. She chattered animatedly in Lao throughout our walk, and although I couldn't understand her words, her enthusiasm and gestures indicated she was giving me historical information. Upon reaching the temple, which was being renovated, she sweetly took my hand, seemingly to ensure safety as we navigated the area. On our way back, she skipped ahead and picked us each a lotus leaf to shield us from the sun. How cute is that?

 

30 September - Muang Champassak – Do Khong island – 112 km

I started my day early, taking advantage of the dry weather. However, the day turned out to be slower than expected. I first had to cross the Mekong River by cycling to the Temple, from where wooden boats ferried passengers across the river. I was initially worried about getting my bicycle and bags onto the small boat, but after seeing them load motorbikes, I felt more at ease. We crossed the river without any issues.

Once on the main road, I enjoyed the beautiful scenery, despite feeling a bit under the weather. I observed young boys fearlessly jumping off a high bridge and also stopped at a roadside store for a noodle soup lunch, where I sat under strings of drying meat. Dark clouds appeared, and I anticipated getting caught in a storm. Shortly after, I heard a loud clap of thunder and sought shelter in an abandoned structure.

Upon reaching the ferry port to Si Phan Don, or the Four Thousand Islands, I was informed that there were no boats available. Unsure if it was due to the river being in flood, I found a bridge a few kilometres further south. Si Phan Don is a riverine archipelago in the Mekong River in southern Laos, known for its numerous islands and beautiful landscape. I decided to stay an extra day to update my journal, do the usual housekeeping and spend my remaining Lao kip before crossing the border, as it’s a currency that’s pretty useless anywhere else.