Vietnam (2)1205
Kilometres - 21 Days5
October – 25 October 2016
5
October - Ban Dong, Laos – Dong Ha, Vietnam – 107 km
A
short ride took me to the Vietnamese border, where the crossing was an
uncomplicated affair. At Lao Bao, a quick detour into town allowed drawing Vietnamese
currency (a whopping 3,000,000 Dong as $1US = 22,000 Dong) and
picking up a new SIM card.
From
Lao Bao, a steady climb led up the mountain and onto a lovely descent past
turn-offs to war-related sites. I also spotted the famous Rockpile. The
Rockpile is a karst outcrop south of the former Vietnamese Demilitarized Zone
(DMZ). The United States Army used it as an observation post and artillery base
from 1966 to 1969. The area remained relatively rural, and as in Laos, people
carried their wares in woven baskets on their backs and women smoked long, thin
pipes while selling banana hearts.
6
October - Dong Ha – Dong Hoi – 105 km
Since
it drizzled, I ummed and aahed whether to continue as my room was nice and
cosy. But as always, I’d ants in my pants and departed in a drizzle, a drizzle which
got worse as the day progressed.
Soon
after leaving, my route crossed the DMZ, by then a peaceful place planted under
rice and sporting grazing buffalo. I’d my head down and missed the turn-off to
the tunnels and didn’t feel like retracing my steps in the pouring rain.
Although not cold, the rain made a dreary day. The camera barely came out and there
were a few missed photo opportunities. However, it’s not all lousy biking in
the rain; in fact, it can be quite pleasant at times.
In
Dong Hoi, I realised one needed to check one’s money, change, and prices as the
Vietnamese didn’t need encouragement to do you in and thus one reason Vietnam
wasn’t on the top of my “favourite destination” list. They weren’t even
embarrassed when one pointed it out; they merely laughed and refunded you. I thus
preferred ordering food from a menu indicating prices. The biggest problem was
buying at a store. Generally, prices weren’t on items, and full advantage was
taken of foreigners’ lack of knowledge.
7
October – Dong Hoi
During
the Vietnam war, Dong Hoi was, unfortunately, situated close to the DMZ
(Demilitarized Zone; ironically, this was where most of the fighting took
place). On 11 February 1965, American B-52s raised the city to the ground.
After the attack, all that remained were
a water tower, part of the city gate, part of the Catholic Church, and a single
palm tree. On departing, a short cycle took me through the city to have a
glimpse at these spots and to have one more cup of coffee. In the process, I started
chatting to other travellers and the weather came in which made me stay put. The
rest of the day was spent exploring the city, doing laundry and eating
interesting Vietnamese food.
What
was noticeable was the lack of stray dogs as one often saw motorbikes with wire
cages on the back transporting dogs. Vietnamese have an appetite for dog meat,
and they see these animals as food, a delicacy, to wash down with a bottle of
rice wine. If slaughtered in a humane way (if there is such a thing), it’s no
different to lamb or pork, or at least that’s what I think. The Vietnamese
don’t eat their pet dogs; as little as people in the West eat their pet
chicken.
8
October – Dong Hoi – Son Trach – 45 km
Following
a quick breakfast, I continued to Phong Nha National Park. Now a Unesco World
Heritage Site, it’s a remarkable area containing the oldest karst mountains in
Asia. The park is riddled with hundreds of cave systems. It made a beautiful
cycle offering stunning vistas and the ever-present karst mountains in the
distance.
During
the day, a gathering of sorts got my attention, a funeral, I guessed, as a man
in a brown robe chanted in a monotone voice. Bystanders were dressed in white
robes and headbands. Plenty of food and incense were splayed out, and paper
offerings were burnt. They encouraged me to take photos and upon leaving, my
handlebar bag was stuffed with food and fruit. I say “stuffed” as the lid could
barely close. Unsure of what to do, I made a wildly exaggerated puja/namaste by
holding my palms together, touching my forehead and bowing numerous times. What
a sight this must have made. On pedalling off, I could scarcely contain myself
and nearly fell off the bike laughing, imagining what that must have looked
like.
Reaching
Son Trach (still with a bulging handlebar bag), uncovering accommodation was
easy as this small town boasted numerous guesthouses. I was excited to investigate
and first on the list was Phong Nha Cave, one of the world’s most extensive
cave systems. Visiting involved a boat ride on the Son Trach River to the cave’s
gaping mouth. We were rowed into the cave and were instantly transported into
the wondrous world of stalagmites and stalactites—slack-jawed, I stared at the wonderment
around me.
9
October – Son Trach and Paradise Cave
All
loaded and ready to leave, a change of heart made me stay one more day as it
was highly likely I would never return and best to see all the park offered.
The
route to Paradise Cave wound past rice paddies and karst peaks deep into the National
Park. Once there, a two-kilometre walk took me to the mouth of the cave. Surprisingly,
one of the most extensive cave systems in the world (thirty-one kilometres) lay
behind this tiny opening. No wonder it lay hidden until 2005. A wooden
staircase led to this extensive system and the sheer size of the cave made it breath-taking.
Unfortunately, my arrival coincided with a tour group and I assumed it would
spoil the experience. However, the cave is so vast I didn’t even realise they
were there. There are no words to describe the cave, but to say it’s spectacular.
Unfortunately, my many photos didn’t come close to capturing the vastness of
the cave or its beauty.
10
October - Son Trach – Yang hotel, Cam Xuyen – 127 km
Although
dearly wanting to visit Dark Cave, I’d already spent far too much money as it
involves an abseil into the cave.
My
room rate included breakfast consisting of a Vietnamese omelette, baguette and
ice coffee. The coffee is delicious but extremely strong if ice isn’t added.
“Whe you go?” has become the norm while packing up and on replying, “China”, it
appeared no one had ever heard of such a country.
My
chosen route north took me past quintessential Vietnamese scenery of karst
outcroppings, rice fields and grazing buffalo. Farmers ploughed the land with
the help of oxen or buffalo; others were putt-putting upriver fishing net in
hand.
I
followed one of the old Ho Chi Ming trails, paths used by the Vietnamese during
the war as a supply/support route. There are numerous paths/trails/routes,
and I loved how rural the area was, but old graves reminded me of the many
Vietnamese who lost their lives here.
Hot
and sweaty, a sugar cane juice vendor made a welcome stop, something that
remained a novelty, even though I’d been in Southeast Asia quite some time by
then. Somehow, a missed turn took me to the main road. Not a train smash and I
followed ladies collecting recyclable items and past older men watching over
buffaloes. My greatest entertainment was two ladies herding geese and ducks.
They didn’t wave their arms or make any exaggerated movements; they simply
strolled along, guiding them gently. Comfortable-looking digs with a restaurant
close by made perfect overnighting.
11
October – Yang Hotel, Cam Xuyen – Dien Chau – 112 km
What
a bizarre day this was, starting with a message from an Australian lady demanding
I delete the picture of the dogs being transported by bike or she would make
sure I’d no friends! As if that would stop the Vietnamese eating dog meat! I
thought it quite likely some of my Facebook friends received derogatory
messages or comments from “me”. Later, a man mentioned that it was easier for women
to travel by bicycle as they were stronger, and men couldn’t do it. On second
thoughts, he could’ve tried justifying his use of a motorised bicycle, not that
one needs explaining using an e-bike. At least I heard one “Welcome to
Vietnam”. Not a great deal happened as the AH1 is a busy highway and best to
look for a better route in the morning. The fascinating part was watching a
herd of buffalo swim across a huge river. I’d no idea they were such good
swimmers.
12
October – Dien Chau – Thanh Hoa - 104 km
Gosh,
several peculiar things happened on this day. First, on rounding a truck parked
on the shoulder, a lady on a motorbike popped out in front of me. Vehicles tend
to go against the traffic in Vietnam. She got such a fright she dropped her
motorbike, causing me to go over it. Fortunately, I didn’t fall hard, and she saw
the incident as immensely funny. The Vietnamese have a habit of laughing
when someone falls.
Another
strange thing was people addressed one in any foreign language they’ve mastered
(or half mastered), which may or may not be English. I was spoken to in German
and French, and no good telling them you didn’t understand, as they just kept talking.
Later I’d someone pulling up next to me with a friendly “Salaam alaikum”; I responded
with “Alaikum salaam”, as it was my sole Arabic phrase. Not for a minute did I believe
I resembled an Arabian person. I guessed they worked somewhere on the Arabian
Peninsula.
I
slowly edged towards Hanoi, trying not to get flattened by trucks and busses while
dodging produce drying on the tarmac. Not many pictures were taken as the landscape
was spoilt by wires, unsightly pylons, and frantic mining. Unfortunately,
mining scars are irreversible and will be there forever and a day. Still, this
was a rural part of the country, and farmers were busy harvesting rice while I
shared the road with ladies, all of whom were on bicycles loaded to the hilt.
13
October - Thanh Hoa - Tam Coc - 60 km
My
route veered off the highway and continued to one of Vietnam’s top tourist
destinations, Tam Coc. Although a lively touristy area, it remained picturesque.
A place from where boats headed upriver past jagged limestone cliff and rock
formations rising out of the paddy fields reminiscent of Ha Long Bay. Even the
ever-present air pollution couldn’t detract from the beauty of Tam Coc. However,
the predicted rain made me wonder if a boat trip upriver would be worth the
money.
14-19
October - Tam Coc – Hanoi – 110 km
Unfortunately,
the continuous drizzle made me choose between going upriver in the rain or heading
to Hanoi in the rain. Unable to make up my mind, I first had breakfast accompanied
by a good cup of
Vietnamese coffee. Hanoi won as it was hard to justify the money on a trip in
the rain.
My
chosen path had many interesting sights. It proceeded along a country lane and
past tiny rural settlements where ladies traded on their haunches from wicker
baskets on shoulder poles. Ancient Hoa Lu came as a surprise and is said the
ancient capital of Vietnam, circa 800 BC., and it made a fascinating detour.
Though not many buildings were left of the time, it remained a beautiful area featuring
narrow alleys, old temples and askew moss-covered walls.
Although
the drizzle continued throughout the day, the ride remained enjoyable.
Eventually, the route spat me out upon the AH1, a busy highway that turned into
a narrow, potholed single-lane road. The last part of the ride into Hanoi was an
unpleasant affair. I thought it nothing short of miraculous that I made it to
my destination unscathed. Traffic rules were non-existing, or I didn’t know them.
Tired
and soaked, I cycled into bustling Hanoi and was relieved to find a reasonably
priced abode in the labyrinthian of narrow lanes in the old quarters.
The
following days were spent exploring Hanoi’s old part, a pleasant place in which
to hang out. I met up with Bret and Hayley, who lived in Vietnam. They knew Hanoi
like the back of their hand, and in the company of a few of their countless
friends, we met up practically every night for beers and a bite to eat.
Rumours
of an approaching typhoon made me stay put, but the days came and went, and no
storm made an appearance. Each morning, the weatherman announced this was the
day, making me pay one more night. Wandering the narrow lanes of the old
quarters, I ate from street-side restaurants where people sat on tiny plastic
chairs and drank countless cups of coffee at small cafes in narrow alleys.
20
October - Hanoi – Roadside hotel - 115 km
Eventually,
the time came to pedal out of Hanoi. Three times, I changed my mind about what direction
to go. In the process, I rode through tiny settlements lining the Duong River,
all typical Vietnamese with straight-up houses resembling matchboxes
on their sides. The villages were surrounded mainly by rice paddies and built
around a church (how weird). The red-roofed houses, strangely, reminded me of
Eastern Europe.
The
route followed the river for the rest of the day, making a rural and pleasant
ride. The GPS was set to “walking”, something that turned out heaps of fun as
it sent me through markets, along cobblestoned alleys, past temples, and
through residential areas complete with buffalos, chickens, and pigs; all, of
course, to the great amusement of villagers.
The
land along the river was fertile. My route ran past vast vegetable farming operations
where farmers weeded and watered crops by hand. The narrow road was made even narrower
due to villagers using the tarmac to dry their produce; ladies were
methodically spreading rice onto giant plastic sheets, continuously turning it
over. Although I thought of refraining from people shots, a man not merely carrying
his fishing gear dangling from the one end of his shoulder pole but an entire
boat made me take one more shot.
21
October - Roadside hotel - Halong City - 40 km
The
short cycle into Halong City made a relaxed start to the day and the ride
turned out a beautiful one past stunning karst scenery. Halong City is the
gateway to Halong
Bay and Cat Ba Island. However, I was unsure if I wanted to revisit Cat Ba
Island.
In
the meantime, I discovered my passport was left in Hanoi; what a pain. The
receptionist at the hotel in Halong City was kind enough to phone and arrange for
her brother (a minivan driver) to collect the passport and drop it off. How
sweet of her. The free trade agreement in Vietnam meant development and
building work was in full swing. Halong City thus resembled a giant
construction site.
22
October - Halong City
The
pollution/haze/fog was horrendous, and best not to spend money on a boat trip;
quite sad. The remainder of the day was thus spent eating
and drinking. Not a bad alternative to cycling.
23
October - Halong City – Dam Ha – 120 km
It’s
hard to describe northern Vietnam, as it’s beautiful but heavily polluted. However,
the visibility improved once away from the coast and its mining, dust and smog,
and the colours returned. The rest of the ride was hilly but offered stunning vistas,
especially with the ripening rice.
Old,
dilapidated houses looked pretty against fields of yellowish-brown rice. Humble
and welcoming folk sold meagre supplies at roadside stands. Each time I
refilled my water bottles, I was invited
to share a meal. Even men drinking at corner kiosks waved me closer and offered
to share their rice wine, an offer which was better declined.
Once
in Dam Ha, I looked for a guesthouse and soon spotted one adjacent to a restaurant.
Interestingly, these little eateries often only had one option and Bia Ha Noi (a
popular beer) on tap. No English was spoken, but it’s pretty easy to explain
what you want when walking into a restaurant, and no sooner a huge spread
arrived, so large was the portion, it was impossible to finish. The meal at
first appeared unimpressive, consisting of simple rice, tofu, sausage, and
greenery; but the individual taste was fantastic. Each dish was flavoursome and
unique.
24
October - Dam Ha – Mong Cai – 60 km
A
short ride led to Mong Cai on the Vietnam-China border. The ride was scenic
through rural communities where villagers still wore tribal gear.
Mong
Cai came as a surprise as the place was a large, sprawling city housing numerous
markets. It appeared a popular cross-border trading post for both Chinese and
Vietnamese. I wanted to cross the border in the morning to allow me a full-day
ride on the Chinese side. The Mong Cai border was a border crossing seldom used
by foreigners. I say this as there were no foreign travellers and I was treated
as a novelty.
Nevertheless,
it remained a tad disconcerting that people checked my shopping to see what I
bought. Having a bite to eat gave me no more privacy as two ladies plonked
themselves down and watched me eat without once taking their eyes off me. Instead,
I didn’t finish the meal and opted for a takeaway from a different shop.
25
October – Mong Cai, Vietnam – Qinzhou, China – 100 km
It
may be difficult to understand the immense sense of freedom I get from the
unknown and from heading over distant hills, with only my bicycle and few
possessions. There were days I couldn’t believe my luck that I lived this life.
These were the random thoughts going through my mind en route to the border. It
turned out one of those days I was convinced only a film crew could capture the
bizarreness of what happened.
As
mentioned before, it was a border crossing seldom used by foreigners, and I felt
like the main attraction. Crowded by people, they peered into my handlebar bag
and gazed at my phone to see what the foreigner was doing. They enquired about the
purpose of the solar panel and if it was for charging the bike. They pointed to
my rings and wanted my bracelets, all making me feel like wanting to escape in
a hurry.
On
that crazy note, I departed Vietnam with its sad history and gazillion graves
and entered exotic China. At the passenger terminal, I’d to walk the bike in
the company of what felt like the entire population of Vietnam and China, all wanting
to lend a hand. The Chinese had a bigger personal space and kept their
distance. The immigration officers could either not read the Latin alphabet or
something was wrong with the passport. He continuously peered at me and then at
the passport, held it up to the light, and inspected it from all sides. Maybe
they’ve never seen someone from “Nanfei”, or they thought all Africans are
black. It took forever, but the passport was eventually returned, and I was waved
through.
My
first stop was the ATM in the border town of Dongxing, where I drew 4,000
Chinese Yuan and then searched for a mobile phone shop to buy a SIM card. I was
observed in silence while staff nervously reached for their phones to start
translating. A SIM card was only available at the main office and was escorted
there by one of the ladies. Resulting in it being 11h00 before getting underway
with money in my wallet and a SIM card in my phone.
My
route headed in the direction of Qinzhou a reasonably substantial city. Once on
the outskirts of vast and sprawling Dongxing, I veered off onto a minor road, which
turned out a delight to cycle. Although considerably slower, the countryside
made effortless riding. Still, I cycled through huge cities, which seemed to go
on forever. The towns all appeared daunting from a distance, but they were easy
to get through, as they were new and well-planned. The hours’ time difference
was welcomed, but it also meant the time was six o’clock instead of five, and
being winter, it got dark early. I thus opted for the first accommodation and
what a posh place. The price was almost double what I typically paid, but the establishment
was new and fancy. Naturally, food was first on my mind. Afterwards, I tried doing
laundry in a wash hand basin, clearly not designed for that purpose. Still, the
fact they’d a drying rack right under the aircon unit came in handy.
