Saturday, 12 September 2015

074 CYCLING MALAYSIA (2) - WAITING FOR A NEW PASSPORT


MALAYSIA (2)
3 205 Kilometres - 66 Days
8 June – 11 September 2015


 

8 June - Hat Yai, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia - 105 km

After an easy 55-kilometre cycle, I arrived at the Thailand-Malaysia border. It was a hassle-free border crossing, and I was automatically granted a 90-day stay, which was a relief. Sixty kilometres later, I reached Alor Setar, which is known as the gateway to Langkawi. However, I hadn't planned to go there and was only looking for a place to spend the night.

While no country is perfect, some come closer to paradise than others. With Malaysia’s delicious cuisine that blends Malay, Chinese, and Indian, I was in my element and felt that Malaysia rightfully earned a top spot on my list of paradise-like destinations. The aroma of spices and the sizzle of the hotplates at the night market next to the guesthouse where I stayed was a sensory delight. I was spoilt for choice and couldn't resist trying more than one roti canai, especially since they were inexpensive.

 

9 June - Alor Setar – Penang – 100 km

The ride to Butterworth was relaxed and offered views of scenic rice paddies and beautiful temples and mosques. Once in Butterworth, I boarded a ferry that transported pedestrians, cars, and motorbikes to the island of Penang. A few minutes later, we docked at famous Georgetown.

I discovered a crappy but inexpensive abode with an air-con and window (considered a bargain). The guidebook mentioned that Penang was known as the ‘Pearl of the Orient, and it lived up to its reputation as I saw rickshaws peddling past Chinese shophouses. Georgetown was further renowned for its street food, and countless vendors were selling Malay, Indian, and Chinese cuisine at the numerous stands that lined the town's narrow lanes. Feeling famished, I rushed to the nearest food cart to grab my daily plate of Nasi Goreng.

 

10 June - Georgetown, Penang

Although Georgetown’s centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it remains a working town with Chinese shophouses where people live and work. Rickshaws pedalled tourists around the labyrinth of chaotic streets and cobbled pathways, past British Raj-era architecture, strings of paper lanterns, and retro-chic pubs, boutiques, and cafes. I spent the day searching for famous street art, with a camera in hand, and my efforts were well rewarded. Street art was dotted all over town, and locating it was an enjoyable challenge that took the best part of the day.

 

11 June - Georgetown, Penang

I wasn’t entirely done with all I wanted to see in Georgetown, so I extended my stay by one more day. I explored the narrow alleys, discovered more street art, and came across many interesting sights. My ramble led me past the joss stick maker, the goldsmith, the garland makers and the ever-present food vendors. Through Little India and Little China and past the old clan jetties, I meandered before returning to my abode in Love Lane.

 

12 June - Georgetown – Taman Damai – 55 km

Not in the mood for cycling but not for staying either, I dragged my heels, making my way to the ferry for the return trip to the mainland.

No sooner were we underway, than rain came pelting down. In Southeast Asia, the rain comes in droves, and motorcycles and scooters usually pull over at designated places during such weather. I followed suit and waited until the worst of it passed. Barely a few kilometres further, the heavens opened once more. What can a woman do but find digs and watch the weather from the porch while drinking a tall Tiger?

 

13 June - Taman Damai – Taiping - 44 km

My next stop was Taiping, known for being the wettest town in the region. Even during the driest month of June, the city still receives significant rainfall, with 159 mm of precipitation. As a result, it's almost impossible to pass Taiping without getting soaked. As there was no real reason to stop early, I took some time to explore the city.

When I arrived at the hotel, I was surprised that they allowed me in, as I was dripping water all over their shiny tiles. Unfortunately, the rain never stopped, and I ended up staying at the hotel for the rest of the day, not doing much except eating.

 

14 June - Taiping – Lumut - 95 km

Breakfast was from McDonald’s after which a 95-kilometre ride took me to Lumut, the departure point to Pulau Pangkor. The rain dissipated, and the previous night’s rainfall brought cooler weather. The temperature was around 30°C, and although incredibly humid, biking remained a pleasure. Lumut took me by surprise as it looked good enough to spend a night instead of getting directly onto the ferry to Pangkor Island.

 

15 June – Lumut

First thing in the morning, I went to the mall to do some shopping. Once done, I bought a photography magazine I read at Starbucks while having coffee. It was nice to have a regular day for a change. However, purchasing the magazine was maybe not the best idea, as reading it made me want to buy a new lens.

En route to my abode, I made a quick stop at the Mangrove Park to snap a few pics of the monkeys. While doing so, the buggers stole my water bottle off the bike, which I had thought was tightly secured into its cage! I waved my fist at them but swear I could hear them laughing from the treetops.

 

16 June - Lumut

The reason I was dragging my heels was that I was waiting for my new passport. With no word of the replacement passport, I assumed it best to remain in Malaysia as it was one of the few countries allowing a ninety-day stay. After which all one had to do was cross the border into Singapore and upon returning you were given an additional three months.

Malaysia wasn’t overly expensive, and although not part of the plan, Lumut appeared to be an excellent place to lay low. Staying put was a whole new experience. I was happy in the tropics, and there was nowhere else I would rather wait until the passport arrived.

I liked Lumut as it was situated along the ocean, and was close enough to the larger town of Seri Manjung. Lumut further had various restaurants and bars, as it was the departure point for tourists to Pangkor Island. I searched for a place to rent and was surprised to find a considerable number of options available in such a small village. I treated myself to a lovely studio apartment with a small balcony. The condo was quite spacious for a studio, and the complex came with a massive pool that was all mine to enjoy as it was Ramadan and Malaysia was relatively quiet at the time. The staff was very accommodating and even provided me with a little table and chairs for the balcony. They also took care of my laundry and offered me one of their laptops with a big screen.

 

17–24 June - Lumut

As part of my new routine, I started going for a jog followed by a swim. However, I needed running shoes and swimming goggles. Despite being determined to get running fit, it turned out to be more challenging than I had anticipated. I wasn't sure if I had enough patience to continue with such a slow start.

 

25 June – 5 July - Lumut

Fortunately, I love tropical regions. While returning from the shops, I had a great time dodging monkeys that tried to snatch my shopping. However, renting an apartment for a whole month was a bit excessive. Before even reaching the halfway mark of the month, I was already eager to leave.

Feeling bored, I cycled to Marine Island, hoping to go scuba diving, but the shop was closed. Restless, I headed to the Mall instead, where I pampered myself with a facial and later explored the Rahmat Maritime Museum, a navy battleship that was a fun place to visit.

 

6 July - Lumut

The twin islands of Pangkor and Pangkor Laut are situated three miles offshore. They are home to several fishing villages featuring traditional Malay houses. A round-trip ferry ticket costs only 10MYR, making these islands a popular destination for both backpackers and domestic travellers. I, too, joined the crowds to explore the islands and see what they had to offer.

 

7 July - Lumut - Bangkok

Months after applying for a new passport, the passport saga continued. Only after I made a phone call to the Bangkok Embassy did I learn I had to pay double the original fee as I had lost the passport. Unfortunately, nobody had informed me beforehand about this additional cost. Furthermore, I had to pay this fee at the embassy itself. It's ironic how reality can sometimes be more unbelievable than fiction. I hastily packed a backpack and hopped on a bus to Bangkok.

 

8 July - Bangkok

Twenty-four hours later, the bus arrived in one of my favourite cities. Peachy Guesthouse was my abode of choice in Bangkok as it was cheap as chips. While there, I noticed a familiar-looking pannier by the rubbish bin. I knew the pannier quite well as it belonged to Ernest, an old cycling buddy with whom I had parted ways in the Americas. It seemed that he had stayed at the same guesthouse recently and, like me, his panniers were also falling apart.

 

9 July - Bangkok

First thing in the morning, I caught a water taxi to the Embassy. I’m always thrilled to use city transport, like everyone else. I paid the required fee at the embassy and then trundled around the many malls.

Afterwards, enough time remained to visit the National Museum. To celebrate the 60th birthday of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the Fine Arts Department hosted a special exhibition, “Feminine Deities: Buddhism, Hinduism And Indigenous Cults In Thailand”. Maybe they weren’t well-liked, as the majority were headless.

 

10–11 July - Bangkok

Staying in Bangkok one more day was easy as I was in no hurry to go anywhere, and Bangkok provided an endless array of exciting events and activities.

By evening, Khao San Road was its usual hive of activity. Situated in the heart of Backpackerville, it’s here where you could be pierced, tattooed and dreadlocked if you wished. You could eat bugs, shop for jewellery and clothes (which I did) and buy fake IDs, driver’s licenses, diving cards and even photographer’s passes (tempting… imagine what one could do with such an ID). By evening, an outdoor cultural show had me transfixed.

The idea of leaving Thailand without watching the national sport is quite inconceivable. Muay Thai is a sport like no other. You can, seemingly, use knees, elbows, shins, hands and feet. It’s an intriguing sport, and the men are well built which is enough reason for me to watch.

Finally, the time came to leave Bangkok and return to Malaysia. This time, I believed it was far nicer to go by train than by bus. I love how the tray tables unfolded when serving food (tablecloth and all) and how they make the beds at night. It reminds me of a long-forgotten era. There’s nothing quite like crawling in and falling asleep to the hypnotic clickety-clack of the wheels on the tracks. I love how the sound steadily increases as the train gets up to speed—pure magic.

 

12–16 July - Lumut

Arriving in Lumut felt like returning home. I smiled at the staff, saying, “Hi, hello. Did you enjoy your holiday?” This is typically followed by, “Have you eaten?” a standard greeting in Malaysia.

 

17 July - Lumut – Sungai Besar - 107 km

Finally, my last day in Lumut arrived, and I was happy to pack up and resume my journey. Cycling the same country twice could be somewhat monotonous but there are always new places to explore and I had no choice but to wait until the new passport arrived.

I pedalled until reaching Sungai Besar, where I found inexpensive accommodation. The evening was enjoyable as people celebrated Eid, marking the end of the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. This celebration, known as Hari Raya Aidilfitri, is a time when countless Malay families wear new clothes in the same hue. Men wear loose shirts with trousers, and women wear full-length blouse and skirt combinations, typically made of silk or silk-like material. I understood that this tradition signified unity.

 

18 July - Sungai Besar – Sekinchan - 25km

Plagued with a stomach bug, I pulled into Sekinchan. I scarcely took any pictures as I had other things on my mind (LOL). The room rates in Sekinchan were more pricey than usual as the Eid festival was in full swing. The festival was a family-and-friends day where people visited family and asked forgiveness for wrongdoings that occurred in the past year. However, most people seemed focused on eating during the festival.

 

19 July - Sekinchan – Klang - 80km

My late departure was due to waiting until the weather cleared and it was late before I pedalled out of Sekinchan. Unfortunately, the drizzle continued for the best part of the day. Still, I didn’t need to run into the bushes like the previous day, and the overcast weather made it comfortable riding. The traffic was hectic but, mercifully, a smaller path ran parallel to the main road.

 

20-21 July - Klang – Taman Pura Prima - 30 km

From Klang, I veered slightly inland to visit Peter Yoong, a fellow cyclist and Warmshower host I met in Thailand while on his Southeast Asia tour a few months earlier. A short and easy ride led south along a separate motorbike lane, complete with road signs.

I soon arrived at Peter’s place, and was greeted by his lovely family. Peter even had a cold beer waiting for me.

The following morning, we visited the market and afterwards Peter baked three pies. Did I pick the right Warmshowers host, or what? By evening, Ivan, a fellow cyclist, arrived. Peter drove us to Kuala Lumpur, allowing us to take pictures of the famous Petronas Twin Towers.

 

22 July - Taman Pura Prima – Lukut - 115 km

Peter suggested taking the coastal route as a shortcut to Port Dickson, and it turned out to be a great idea as it was far quieter and more scenic. The path cut through oil palm plantations until it reached a river where a small ferry carried people across. Once on the opposite bank, a short distance remained to Lukut.

 

23-25 July - Lukut – Malacca - 100 km

A pleasant day led across large rivers and past green and lush swampy areas, precisely what one would expect of Malaysia. My arrival in Malacca was in good time, and I searched for the Warmshowers host. Howard ran a small guesthouse and hostel where cyclists could stay on the rooftop terrace for free.

Howard was incredibly generous and helpful, providing complimentary coffee and tea. The following day, I took my bike to be serviced and explored the streets of old Malacca, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It was easy to stay an extra day. First, I went on a free walking tour and then took my camera to a shop to have it cleaned. On my return, I stumbled upon a bonsai show. Although I don't know much about bonsais, they were absolutely magnificent.

 

26 July - Malacca – Batu Pahat - 88 km

Not a great deal happened during the day, except it started raining, and instead of becoming soaked, I found a place to take cover until it was over.

 

27 July - Batu Pahat – Pontian Kecil - 77 km

During my ride to Pontian Kecil, I made my usual stops to refill my water supply or sample the local food. I initially planned to stay at a Warmshower accommodation, but due to a misunderstanding, I had to find an alternative place to stay. Interestingly, the hotel staff still used an abacus, which made for an intriguing experience. It's incredible how diverse and unique our world can be.

 

28 July - Pontian Kecil – Kota Tinggi - 105 km

I spent the better part of the day riding on busy main roads, which wasn't very pleasant. Unfortunately, I got caught in the rain again, but it didn't last long. When I finally arrived in Kota Tinggi, I had enough of the awful traffic and decided to stop at a hotel. Luckily, there was a food court right next door where I was able to enjoy delicious curry noodle soup.

 

29-30 July - Kota Tinggi – Mersing - 105 km

The route to the East Coast was primarily undulating through oil palm plantations but, overall, it was a comfortable ride. In Mersing, a spot at the famous Embassy Hotel was the best value in town, and I paid for two nights’ accommodation.

The day after, I called the SA Embassy in Bangkok and they revealed that the application was finally on the Home Affairs’ system. I hoped that matters wouldn’t take too long from then on. The rest of the day was spent doing regular rest-day chores.

 

31 July - Mersing – Chalets Kampong Merchong - 96 km

The coastal road eventually led onto Route 3 via Rompin. Sadly, workers were clearing the natural forest to convert it into oil palm plantations. A little beyond that a fire was used to make clearing easier. It's always a sad sight.

My path took me past a massive brick-built aviary, used as a swiftlet and edible bird’s nest farm. At the time, a kilogram of white nests could cost up to US$2,000, and red nests up to US$10,000, making it an extremely lucrative business.

Basic chalets along the river made it an excellent place to spend the night. Sadly, the air was thick with smoke from fires, to such an extent that I secretly planned what to grab when push came to shove. Fortunately, a thunderstorm came to the rescue and calmed things down a tad. Phew, what a relief.

 

1-2 August - Chalets Kampong Merchong – Kuantan - 111 km

Roadside stands sold various exotic cuisine - lemang was a delicacy of sticky rice baked in bamboo. It’s a good thing I take pictures as I sometimes think nothing happened until I look at my photos. Someone once said: Travellers see more than they remember and remember more than they see. I thought it a very true statement.

Kuantan was considerably larger than anticipated, featuring a backpackers' hostel without bicycle storage. So, instead, I settled for a guesthouse. Luckily, the place was opposite the night market, and as I hadn’t eaten all day, I shouldn’t have gone shopping hungry.

I tried to fix the laptop’s touchpad but only broke the entire thing. Therefore, I sought out the computer shop in the morning.

 

3 August - Kuantan – Kerteh - 97 km

I laughed out loud when biking out of Kuantan - the joy of moving on and the freedom it brings can sometimes be overwhelming. I must admit I usually have this feeling on the downhill. LOL. Although several places of interest were sprinkled along the way, I didn’t feel like stopping and biked until reaching Kerteh. Unfortunately, conservative Kerteh didn’t have a considerable number of attractions. Not even beer but a good enough bed could be found, which was all I needed.

 

4-5 August - Kerteh – Kuala Terengganu - 117 km

Once again, a pleasant and easy ride led past plenty of fishing villages and across wide rivers, reminding me that this was indeed the tropics. The Seaview Hotel lacked a sea view but had a ground-floor room to store the bike. Nearby Chinatown made for a relaxing stroll and provided a much-needed meal.

By morning, I handed in my laundry and returned to Chinatown, which offered interesting 3D street art. The paintings were so lifelike that it was hard to tell where the real thing ended and the picture started. The area was fascinating, full of colour and delicious food. Markets were crammed with unfamiliar merchandise and strange smells, making it a fascinating visit.

 

6 August - Kuala Terengganu – Kuala Besut - 109 km

It took the best part of the day to cycle the 109 kilometres to Kuala Besut, as cycling was into a mild headwind. The route was pan flat and hugged the coast. The East Coast was dotted with small islands, the most famous being the Perhentian Islands, which I was heading to.

Once in Kuala Besut, food stalls miraculously appeared, and I had plenty to choose from—it was a good thing, too, as I hadn’t eaten all day and was starving.

 

7-9 August - Kuala Besut – Perhentian Islands - By ferry

In Kuala Besut, the friendly guesthouse owner agreed to store my bicycle while I visited the nearby islands. The ferry stopped at various places, but I got off at Longbeach. The village offered budget accommodation and cheap diving. Oh La La came at a reasonable price and I booked a dive for the following morning and spent the rest of the day snorkelling.

The next day, we took a boat ride to a pinnacle about 20 minutes away. Although the visibility wasn't excellent, the dive was still incredible, with plenty of marine life along the reef. In the evening, I joined other divers for a delicious supper on the beach. The following day, we went on another dive to a cave. The water was so warm that diving without a wetsuit and only a T-shirt was possible. We returned just in time for me to catch the return ferry to the mainland.

 

10 August - Kuala Besut – Kuala Terengganu - 112 km

Some days are stranger than others and this was one of them. Soon after departing a motorbike pulled up next to me and with lightning-fast action, the man reached out and grabbed my boob and then sped off. I let rip with profanities and gave him the middle finger. He highly likely didn’t understand “Jou ma se moer!” Ha, ha, ha.

Later, a friendly chap stopped and offered me a ride to Terengganu. To him, Terengganu was too far to cycle in a day, even though only 50 kilometres remained. I declined his offer, thanked him for his kindness and with my faith in humanity restored, proceeded to Terengganu where my arrival was in good time. I picked up fried noodles and beer in Chinatown and headed to the Seaview Hotel without the sea view.

 

11 August - Kuala Terengganu – Dundun - 94 km

During my ride to Dundun, the route passed numerous roadside stands selling satay-skewered chicken wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on a smoky charcoal grill. At one of the stalls, I realised I was wearing odd shoes, which was quite a feat considering I only had two pairs.

Unfortunately, I spent most of the day riding into a stiff breeze, and midway to Dundun, the rain came gushing down so heavily that I had to take cover. Dundun had several options for accommodation along the beachfront. However, they were all quite expensive and, in the end, I chose the least expensive of the bunch. Big mistake, as it turned out to be the worst place I have stayed at during my time in Malaysia. On days like this, I must remind myself that I’m not buying the place and that I'll be out of there by morning.

 

12-13 August - Dungun – Cherating - 86 km

Cherating was a charming fishing village along the coast. Before direct transport from the highlands to the Perhentian Islands, travellers stopped here to enjoy a bit of R&R. Nowadays, very few travellers stop in Cherating, and the place has a sad air of ghostliness and decline. However, heaps of accommodation with practically no one there made finding bargain rooms easy. Staying the following day was easy, and it was an excellent place to do laundry and lounge about.

 

14 August - Cherating – Pekan - 90 km

Retracing one’s steps is never much fun, but staying in Pekan was intriguing. Not only is this where the Sungai Pahang (the longest river in Peninsular Malaysia) flows into the South China Sea, but the town was further home to rows of traditional Chinese shophouses.

At my abode, I debated where to go once I received my new passport. The monsoon season was on its way, and I was drawn to India where it was about to end. Not having cycled Bangladesh made the country a fascinating option.

 

15 August - Pekan – Rompin - 94 km

An easy day of biking led along the ocean. As requested, I received word from the Embassy in Bangkok informing me my passport was sent to Bangkok instead of Cape Town. The passport was already in the diplomatic bag and would arrive in Bangkok in two days. I was understandably sceptical regarding this info. If that were the case, I could either have it couriered or collect it myself. That’s if the Thai border control would let me in with a nearly full passport.

 

16 August - Rompin – Mersing - 66 km

Mersing was only a short distance away, so I didn’t bother with breakfast before setting out. The coastal route was far more pleasant than the main road, and the ride became one of many coffee stops and grand vistas. In Mersing, settling for the Embassy Hotel was a no-brainer, as rooms came with hot water, air conditioning, and TV.

My laptop finally gave in. Although it still worked, the screen was shaky, and I guessed it was only a matter of time before it packed up entirely.

 

17 August - Mersing – Kluang - 90 km

The ride would’ve been nice if only the road had been slightly wider, and the multitude of trucks didn’t make biking any easier. Instead, the way mainly led through oil palm plantations and partly through a natural forest.

Sadly, I spotted a distressed-looking monkey and noticed her little one was knocked down. The poor mother looked stressed and disorientated, pacing up and down as any human would. How incredibly sad.

 

18 August - Kluang – Muar - 108 km

The 17th came and went, and still no passport news. Sigh. I assume the passport wasn’t in the diplomatic bag as promised. The route to Muar was uneventful, and once in Muar the town was more significant than I had foreseen.

I had a long chat with the man at the reception desk. What impressed me was that Malaysians generally speak up to six languages: predominantly Malay, English, Cantonese and Mandarin, and various other dialects.

 

19 August - Muar – Port Dickson - 126 km

I pushed on to Port Dickson as I had already cycled this section a few weeks earlier. Once in Port Dickson, I pitched the tent on the beach under trees, a lovely spot with a view over the ocean, where I sat watching the sunset before trundling to a nearby restaurant.

 

20 August - Port Dickson – Puchong - 90 km

No day comes without a few surprises and this morning was no different. I woke to a massive storm and had to lean against the tentpole with all my might to prevent it from breaking or tearing the tent. Rain bucketed down, and I feared I pitched the tent too close to the water’s edge as I could hear the waves crashing ashore. Fortunately, the tide never came quite that high but when the storm subsided, I discovered seafoam inches from the tent. Phew, that was too close for comfort!

Sopping wet, I biked toward Puchong where the plan was to stay at Peter’s place for a few days or at least until my new passport arrived.

 

21-25 August - Puchong

I hardly did anything, apart from chatting with Peter and his family. Another guest, Carolina from Brazil, also stayed there and helped Peter with his garden. Carolina was a lovely, energetic lady who always looked for ways to help. She was part of a wonderful programme called HelpX, which allowed members to stay with locals for free in return for helping them with various tasks.

The days slipped by unnoticed. At last, I have organised for my passport (still in South Africa) to be sent to Malaysia. Then, surprisingly, my laptop returned to life and seemed to work fine.

It turned out to be the Hungry Ghost Festival. In ancient Chinese folk culture, people believed this was a month of ghosts. It’s thought that the gates of hell are thrown open, releasing hungry ghosts to wander the Earth in search of food. During this time, people placed food and paper money outside, and at temples, they burned exquisite paper houses, cars, mobile phones, and even paper shoes, so the spirits didn’t have to go barefoot. These ghosts are believed to be unfortunate souls who committed evil deeds in their former lives, including overeating, drinking, gambling, and smoking. A substantial amount of these items is put out for these sad souls. If that’s indeed the case, I am doomed to become a hungry ghost. LOL.

 

26 August - Puchong

Peter drove us to the nearby Hindu temple. The temple was brand new, and parts were still being painted. Hindu temples are elaborately decorated, and the architecture is simply breathtaking. I understand that artisans were brought in from India.

Although these temples are places of worship, it’s interesting to note that the Hindu Monk, Swami Vivekananda taught that temples are simply means of reaching God, not an end. “Man is to become divine by realising the divine. Idols, temples, churches, or books are only supports.” ― Swami Vivekananda.

 

27 August - Puchong

Peter and I set out in search of the alleged haunted house of Puchong. The home is located on a hill in the suburb of Taman Tenaga. The story goes that the house was once owned by a wealthy Chinese businessman who went bankrupt. He and his entire family committed suicide but various versions of the story did the rounds. Others say they were murdered by an unknown psychopath killer living in the house’s walls. The place was left to go to ruins in fear of the souls living there.

I read that Bomohs (Malaysian witch doctors) use the house to practice their rituals. Stories of Pontianaks (female vampire ghosts) taking up residence in the place were popular. Reports tell of people seeing lights turning on and off, even though power and water have been cut off for years. As could be expected, people heard screams of children and, of course, saw shadowy figures. We found the place but no ghosts; only thousands of pursuing mosquitoes, which one could easily have thought possessed. Needless to say, we made our way out of there in a hurry.

 

28 August – 2 September - Puchong

Finally, my passport arrived, and I was happy to move along. The question remained where to go. India and Bangladesh were my first choices. Applying for visas in Kuala Lumpur made sense, seeing I was already there. However, being a weekend, and the following Monday a holiday, it was Tuesday before I went to the Bangladesh Embassy. Peter drove me to the city only to find the Embassy only issued visas to Malays. Hence, I decided to cycle north to Bangkok and apply for an Indian visa there.

 

3 September - Puchong – Sekinchan - 110 km

Although sad to leave Peter and his family, I was happy to get underway. Peter suggested a smaller path along the coast, which was great for cycling and far better than the main road. This was my kind of riding - a quiet path along the beach with only a few monkeys and the odd monitor lizard.

 

4 September - Sekinchan – Sitiawan - 127 km

Breakfast was roti canai, but barely 10 kilometres further, I had to make a Gaviscon stop. Chillies, which I should’ve known by then, wasn’t such a good idea first thing in the morning. Later, I returned to the tiny coastal path of the previous day and proceeded past small fishing hamlets and lovely-looking resorts with cabins on stilts over the water. My path weaved its way through palm plantations until reaching a river that mercifully had a ferry to take me across.

The smoke haze wasn’t improving, but instead worsened. According to newspapers, the causes of the fog were forest burning, smoke from factories, vehicle emissions, and open burning. The pollution surely can’t be healthy. Nevertheless, nothing of interest happened after crossing the river, and I pushed on to Sitiawan.

 

5 September - Sitiawan – Taiping - 90 km

Although it was drizzling, it never rained awfully hard, so I continued until I reached Taiping shortly past midday. Skipping breakfast left me starving, so I went hunting for food almost immediately.

The Taiping Zoo was open at night and made a great place to explore after sunset. The zoo was dimly lit, resembling a full moon. I thought it quite magical wandering about listening to the sounds of the night and smelling the damp forest. Much grunting, stomping and chewing could be heard. While wondering what I would do if a crocodile suddenly jumped at me, a deer bounced out from behind a bush, giving me the fright of my life!

 

6 September - Taiping – Penang - 101 km

A quick breakfast and I was on my way—although slightly further, minor paths made a far more pleasant ride. Malaysia is exceptionally modern, and one can easily forget how tropical the country is. The way crossed numerous rivers, all jam-packed with fishing boats of all shapes and sizes. Finally, it spat me out in Butterworth, where I boarded the ferry to Penang. Although there was a bridge, the ferry was extremely popular with cars and motorbikes.

I felt privileged to return to Penang with its historic district and an immense variety of street food and street art. I searched for a visa agent as only a two-week stay was typically granted at Thailand land borders. One can, nonetheless, easily obtain a three-month visa beforehand but it comes at the cost of RM150. As I planned on applying for an Indian and Bangladesh visa in Bangkok, I opted for the three-month option.

Loads of places offered visa services, and I handed my passport to them to do what was necessary.

 

7 September - Penang

As the visa took a day or two, I had a relaxing day. Finally, I started a new blog as I couldn’t access the old one even though I knew the password, email and username. The problem being I no longer had access to the phone number provided many moons ago—what a load of crap!

I finally gave up trying. The new blog kept me busy, as the last update was way back in the Philippines in 2013. In fact, it took another seven years before I could delete the old blog!

 

8 September - Penang

Working on the blog occupied me as I desperately wanted to finish it before departing Malaysia. At around midday, I collected my passport and then updated the blog. A saunter around town revealed the town buzzing with the Hungry Ghost Festival. The festival lasted roughly two weeks and occurred during June/July (Chinese calendar).

Not all areas celebrate the festival simultaneously—in some places festivities were already finished, while others had just started. In Penang, giant joss sticks were burning, food stands were everywhere, and live performances created a festive atmosphere.

 

9 September - Penang

I emerged to pouring rain and waited a while, but the rain never subsided. In the meantime, I met fascinating people at the Love Lane Inn hostel. At least five of them were travelling by motorbike. A French guy was travelling on an Australian “Postie”, an Indian chap was on a motorbike, and so was the French couple. The Australian travelled using local motorbikes, buying and selling them as he went along. Taking them across borders was far too costly. I thus stayed and had a couple of beers with the other travellers.

 

10 September - Penang – Guran - 110 km

I finally departed via a secondary path, and though it drizzled on and off all day, it wasn’t too terrible. Sadly, once in Pantai Merdeka, the ferry across the river was nowhere to be seen. Even after asking around, I couldn’t locate anyone to take me across, so I returned to the main road and onto Guran, which had digs and food.

 

11 September - Guran, Malaysia – Sadao Border Post, Thailand - 105 km

It turned out to be a good day of biking, the rain was gone and the sky was blue. A small path ran flush along the main road, making pedalling easy. The rain of the previous two days made for flooded rice paddies and fresh air, and the countryside looked lush and green as my route headed to the border.

The border crossing into Thailand was surprisingly troublesome. First, I now had two passports (the old one and the new one), and second, you had to produce cash as well as a return ticket. So, off I went to the bank to draw money, which satisfied the officer. After explaining I was travelling by bicycle, they mercifully didn’t insist on a ticket out of the country. By then, it was already relatively late, and I overnighted in Sadao. 

Tuesday, 9 June 2015

073 CYCLING THAILAND (5) - WAITING FOR A NEW PASSPORT


73 THAILAND (5)
866 Kilometres – 12 Days
25 May – 7 June 2015



MAP

PHOTOS


25 May - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand - 108 kilometres

The Cambodian immigration office was only 10 kilometres away across the Meteuk River, and the Thailand border control was a short ride from there. As the rain continued throughout the day, it seemed like the dry season was coming to an end. Despite the rain, I cycled 100 kilometres to Trat, a town with a few basic guesthouses. This also marked the end of my journey through Cambodia and brought me to Thailand for the fifth time.

 

26 May - Trat – Klaeng - 136 kilometres

On emerging from my windowless room, I found the weather still rainy, rain that continued throughout the day. Thankfully, the temperature had subsided, making pushing on to Klaeng easy.

I passed a few interesting-looking places, but with rain bucketing down, I thought it best to keep going. Every day has its own story, and on this day, I wished toilets were available at regular intervals; unfortunately, that sadly wasn’t the case. Without going into too much detail I’ll only mention that I was happy to reach Klaeng and find accommodation at the intersection. Time to rinse those cycling pants! LOL. If ever you were inclined to envy my life, this was certainly not a day to envy.

 

27 May - Klaeng – Chon Buri - 108 kilometres

Thank goodness the rain abated, and the weather returned to its typically hot and humid conditions. Luckily, the ride from Klaeng to Chon Buri was short. A truck overturned just seconds ahead of me, and it made me realise how quickly accidents can happen. Miraculously, the driver emerged unharmed. Not much later another accident occurred between a scooter and a car. These accidents reminded me of a cycle tourist killed in Turkey not too long before and I was, once again, acutely aware of how vulnerable cyclists are on the road.

While travelling, I often mistakenly assume all countries adhere to international traffic rules. However, I now know that each country interprets those rules differently. For example, the fact that the road had a good shoulder didn’t make it a bicycle lane and I did my best to stick as close to the edge of the road as possible. Still, I considered staying safe a team effort.

 

28 - 29 May - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan - 85 kilometres

Fortunately, I soon had the opportunity to turn off the highway and head along a minor coastal road. I intended to find accommodation on the outskirts of Bangkok so that I could take a bus or taxi into the city the following day. I desperately needed a new front pannier, as duct tape held the old one together, and I kept losing things.

At the time, Thailand only allowed a two-week stay at land borders, making it almost impossible to reach the Thailand-Malaysia border in time. Due to this time constraint, I decided to take a taxi into Bangkok, buy the panniers and get back as soon as possible. However, finding a budget room on the outskirts of Bangkok turned out more difficult than anticipated. Although there were many hotels, most were expensive. Eventually, I had to settle for a love motel, which came equipped with a convenient chair. LOL. In hindsight, it might have been better to bike into Bangkok, buy the panniers, and ride out. But then, hindsight is an exact science.

 

29 May - Samut Prakan - Oena Resort, Khet Bang Khun Thian - 40 kilometres

Early the following morning, a taxi ride took me into the city, where I bought the panniers (only sold in pairs). I also bought a new lens cap because I lost mine during the Cambodian boat trip (long story). It was thus after midday before returning to the motel.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand, there’s no avoiding the sprawling city traffic. I soon found myself amidst the worst traffic imaginable. Frustrated, I called it a day and thought it better to continue in the morning.

 

30 May - Oena Resort – Samut Songkhram - 85 kilometres

I didn’t plan to go to Sumat Songkran but turned in anyhow and immediately set out to the well-known Railway Market.

The Maeklong Market is a unique place. At first glance, the market looked like an ordinary market, sheltered by low-hanging awnings or umbrellas. However, on closer inspection, one noticed you’re walking on train rails. Every time a train came, stallholders hurriedly packed up and made space for the train to pass. Unfortunately, no trains came as I understood repair work was being done on the line.

Being a weekend, I visited the weekend floating market and was pleasantly surprised. The market is immensely popular with people from the city, and I never saw a single Westerner. The food was excellent and served directly from the boats.

At a mere 50 bhat, one could take a canal tour, including visiting a few of the temples along the river. Although everything was in Thai, fellow visitors eagerly translated and explained the importance of the various temples. By the time we returned, it was past 6 p.m. and the market was a hive of activity.

 

31 May - Samut Songkram – Cha-Am - 95 kilometres

Although I had cycled between Bangkok and Malaysia twice before, it was still enjoyable to ride along this picturesque coastal route. The road was pan-flat and passed by several salt farms and fishing villages. Additionally, there was a designated bike lane along the way. Upon arriving at Cha-Am, the weather took a turn for the worse, providing a perfect opportunity to search for a room.

 

1 June - Cha-Am

Cha-Am was so lovely that I decided to stay an extra day, allowing me to take a long stroll and a short jog. I also did the usual housekeeping, and with so much free time, I visited the hairdresser where I had a mani- and pedicure at the same time.

 

2-3 June - Cha-Am – Prachuap Khiri Khan - 125 kilometres

From Cha-Am a flat and easy bike ride passed by roadside stalls that sold fruits and fishy snacks. However, shortly before Prachuap, the weather turned bad, and despite going flat out, I ended up getting soaked. In Prachuap, finding a place to stay was easy as the town had ample accommodation options available.

 

4 June - Prachuap Kiri Khan – Bang Saphan (Nipa beach bungalows) - 93 kilometres

As I travelled from Prachuap to Bang Saphan, I took my time to savour the beauty of this scenic route.

After months of solo travelling, I was thrilled to finally bump into another cyclist. He was an Italian man on his way to Italy from Cambodia, although I couldn't help but wonder if he was going the wrong way. The route was brimming with picturesque views, and I was in awe of the long stretches of white sandy beaches with no one in sight. The resorts were tucked away behind a veil of bougainvillaea and fragrant frangipani flowers, and I spotted a few hammocks strung between tall palm trees.

As I approached Nipa Beach Bungalows, located right across from the beach, I knew it was time to call it a day.

 

5-6 June - Bang Saphan – Sea Beach Bungalows - 99 kilometres

Once again, the ride was stunning but hillier than the previous days. The goal was to reach Chumphon as I had run out of visa time and needed to leave the country as soon as possible.

Shortly before Chumphon, I stumbled upon Wua Laen, a coastal village boasting a beautiful beach where beachside bungalows caught my eye. On stopping to enquire, another cyclist, arriving from the south, was also searching for accommodation. Peter Yoong from Malaysia was a lovely, friendly guy and we both rented rooms at Sea Beach Bungalows. While chatting on the little veranda, the Italian chap who I met earlier that day also pulled in. At first, he didn’t recognise me with my clothes on (LOL).

That evening, the three of us grabbed a bite to eat, and we spent a pleasant evening in the company of other cyclists. Peter was a Warmshowers host and kindly invited me to stay at his place once I reached Malaysia. This also marked the beginning of a friendship that would last for many years.

The next morning the weather was lovely, and I decided to stay an extra day even though I knew it would be impossible to reach the border on time if I did so. However, I felt it was worth staying, so I took a leisurely walk and went for a swim before breakfast.

 

7-8 June - Hat Yai, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia - 105 kilometres

I had no option but to take a bus to the border. I didn’t feel guilty doing so as I had cycled that stretch on a previous occasion.

A 30-kilometre ride took me to the bus terminal in Chumphon where busses ran to Hat Yai. From Hat Yai, an easy 55-kilometre bike ride led to the border, where navigating immigration was effortless. I wish all border crossings could be this smooth. Not only was entry uncomplicated, but one automatically was given a 90-day stay and I loved Malaysia for that. Another 60 kilometres down the drag, I rolled into Alor Setar, the gateway to Langkawi. Not that I planned on going to Langkawi - I only wanted overnight accommodation.

No country is perfect, but some are closer to paradise than others. The food in Malaysia included a good dose of Malay, Chinese, and Indian, and I was in my element, therefore placing Malaysia close to the top of the paradise list. I unknowingly found a room right next to the night market and was spoilt for choice! I scoffed more than one Roti Canai, as they were a mere RM1 each, and retired with a full belly.

Monday, 25 May 2015

072 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (2) - WAITING FOR A NEW PASSPORT


CAMBODIA (2)
929 Kilometres – 21 Days
3 May – 25 May 2015




MAP
PHOTOS


 

3 May - Sa Kaeo, Thailand – Saophoan (Sisophon), Cambodia - 107 kilometres

Once in Cambodia, the route headed east toward Siem Reap. The road was in good condition and ran past stilted houses and dry rice paddies. I was going like the clappers, trying to outrun the approaching storm, wondering if reaching Saophoan without getting soaked would be possible.

 

4 May - Saophoan – Siem Reap - 107 kilometres

The following morning, the route was, for the most part, in good condition, except for a section that was being resurfaced. The dust was horrendous, and I had to use a buff to cover my face. Luckily, this wasn’t the rainy season. Being early May, the weather was scorching, and the mercury hovered around 40°C. To stay cool, I occasionally wet my shirt, but it would dry within minutes. Like a diver needing decompression, it felt like I needed an air-con room to “de-heat.”

I passed by several rural communities and saw countless schoolchildren riding their bicycles. It's heartening to see that in this country, kids are free to go to school on their bikes.

Coming from the countryside, Siem Reap, known for its tourism, appeared chaotic and over-commercialized. In the rural areas, the cost of water was only 500 riel, but in Siem Reap, some places charged as much as 4000 riel.

Ivy Guesthouse had fan rooms but, unfortunately, the fans didn’t make the slightest difference. At 11 p.m., the weather bureau reported that the temperature was at 30°C, but it felt more like 35°C. As it was noticeably cooler outside, I set out to explore.

 

5 May - Siem Reap

By morning, I searched for better accommodation and discovered a whole plethora of places, all roughly in the same price range.

My main reason for staying in Siem Reap was to explore the temples of Angkor Wat and I purchased a three-day ticket. My first stop was Angkor Thom, the last great capital of the Khmer Empire. Approaching the site, its magnificent entrance gates came into view, flanked by 54 demons and 54 gods engaged in an epic tug of war.

Inside the gates, the old temple features 54 towers decorated by 216 enormous faces of Avalokiteshvara (The Lord who looks in every direction), which (is said) bears more than a passing resemblance to the great king himself.

 

6 May - Siem Reap

I felt a bit unlucky when it came to capturing sunrises and sunsets. The previous night's sunset was without colour, and this morning's sunrise was unimpressive. However, I still snatched a few pictures as I rarely wake up at 5 a.m.

After sunrise, I stopped at the stunning Ta Prohm temple, which became famous after being featured in Tomb Raider. Unfortunately, the Cambodians were busy renovating the structures, making photographing them difficult. However, this work is vital to keep the temple standing. Fortunately, there were still plenty to photograph, and I half-expected to run into a hobbit.

 

7 May - Siem Reap

An additional day was spent exploring some of the more distant ruins in Angkor. With my three-day ticket, I could explore in the morning and then return to my air-conditioned accommodation during the day, only venturing out once the heat subsided.

 

8 May - Siem Reap - Kampong Kdei - 61 kilometres

After three days of not cycling, I expected to be full of energy. However, instead, I felt lethargic and struggled to get going. My path passed typical Cambodian houses on stilts where people seemed to spend most of their time under their homes. This is where they could escape from the heat and rain and eat, socialise, and relax in hammocks.

Cambodians traditionally prefer to sit on the floor or in hammocks rather than chairs. This is a sharp contrast to other cultures where people usually rest or sleep in the privacy of their homes.

Several vendors were selling bamboo rice and dried fish along the way. I found the bamboo rice quite tasty, as it was cooked in bamboo stalks over an open fire.

Further along, I was surprised to come across an ancient bridge built between 1181 and 1220 AD. The bridge was built along the old road that connected the ancient capital of Angkor to the south. It was impressive that the bridge was still in use, even though a new road had been built to bypass it. The bridge measured 86 metres in length, 16 metres in width, and 10 metres in height. It had 21 arches supported by 20 columns and was adorned with a 9-headed Naga balustrade. Pedestrians, motorbikes, and bicycles all used the bridge.

The guesthouse beside the bridge made a convenient overnight stop, albeit a tad early. These village guesthouses made interesting stopovers. Rooms came at $6 and had a fan, en-suite bathroom featuring a squat toilet, and a mandi (a sizeable concrete tub filled with water). The Cambodians were very diligent about complementary items such as toothbrushes and soap. Even the most basic rooms offered a toothbrush, soap, and the ever-present communal hair comb and I wondered who the heck uses a communal comb? But, judging by the blackness of the teeth, they were well-used items!

 

9 May 2015 - Kampong Kdei – Kampong Thom - 90 kilometres

Feeling surprisingly energetic after feeling tired the previous day, I left much earlier than usual. Cycling in the cool morning air was a pleasure. The road was crowded with schoolchildren on bikes, which surprised me as it was a Saturday. It made me realise that although almost all children attend school, how they get there varies greatly.

As on the previous day, the route passed by wooden houses on stilts. I heard the usual "Sabadee falang" greeting coming from under the houses or behind banana plants. The word falang (foreigner) appeared as a code amongst the younger ones. Only one had to call “Falang”, and all the kids in the neighbourhood would come running, yelling “Falang, falang!”

As it was the weekend, wedding ceremonies were a common occurrence. These events usually took place in pink and yellow marquees outside the family homes. I must admit that my curiosity sometimes got the best of me, and I would sneak a peek at these activities.

 

10 May - Kampong Thom

Rumour had it that pre-Angkorian temples were scattered in the forest roughly 30 kilometres from Kampong Thom. After hailing a tuk-tuk, we set out in the direction of the site. The ride was slow and took the best part of an hour.

Upon arrival, I discovered various trails leading into the woods. It was great fun locating these temples and exciting to stumble upon these ancient ruins. More than 100 structures are scattered throughout the forest. The information board provided fascinating facts about the area, stating that it was once called Isanapura and served as the capital of Chena in the early 7th century. Fascinating stuff.

 

11 - 12 May - Kampong Thum – Kampong Cham - 113 kilometres

Shortly after departing, my route passed an area where temple statues were being crafted. The sculptures, ranging from big to small, were exhibited along the road, featuring sitting and reclining Buddhas. Carving these statues was an immensely dusty process that certainly couldn’t be healthy.

The path resembled a never-ending village, with each house having a plastic contraption with fluorescent lights to trap bugs. It appeared no one in Cambodia wanted to run out of hors d’ oeuvres.

The roadside rubber plantation looked lush and green, which made me feel like taking a break in the shade. However, I have noticed numerous snakes over the past few days and decided against such a move, especially after cycling over one earlier.

I found the labour-intensive process of harvesting latex from rubber trees fascinating. A 25-centimetre cut was made in the bark, leaving the bark to form a gutter for the latex to flow into a cup tied to the tree below the cut. The latex was only collected every second day from the same tree. It’s said the trees can be harvested from about five years old and for up to 28 years. During the dry season, the trees are not tapped and there was no tapping during my visit.

I chose to stay overnight in the small settlement of Kampong Cham, situated along the banks of the Mekong River. Finding a place overlooking the river was easy, and I bought a beer, which I gulped down while enjoying the sunset. The town was charming, and I stayed another day, devouring anything in sight and watching the Mother River flow past. Life was good.

 

13 - 17 May - Kampong Cham – Phnom Pehn - 107 kilometres

I woke early to witness the sunrise and took a few pictures. I’m not exaggerating when I say that after snapping one shot, all the colours disappeared.

It’s said that even the most mundane trip becomes an adventure when travelling by bicycle, which was the case this day. Unfortunately, Google Maps didn’t indicate a road along the river to Phnom Penh.

The Mekong is a mighty river that flows 4,350 kilometres from the Tibetan Plateau to where it eventually drains into the South China Sea in Vietnam. I thus assumed that people lived and farmed along the banks of this mighty river.

My first stop was at the bamboo bridge, which was strong enough to hold a car but felt unstable and springy. Google was true to its word and soon the path petered out and became a sandy track. I bounced along a dusty trail, past small settlements where villagers were as surprised to see me as I was to see them. A few laughed, some pointed, others stared open-mouthed, and the kids, as always, called, “Hello, farang!”

Roughly 30 kilometres from Phnom Penh, my path reached a brand-new highway leading into the city centre. Once in Phnom Penh, the Royal Guesthouse made a comfortable stay. Rooms offered air-con, TV, a bar fridge and a bathroom with hot water, all at $13. I consequently decided to stay five days. Exactly how the five days would be spent was a mystery, but not having to pack up and move along was a novelty.

The traditional Cambodian dance show was a pleasant way to spend an evening. It made me realise how much I’ve missed the theatre. However, my photography wasn’t up to scratch, and I found capturing the fast-moving dancers in low light challenging.

The Killing Fields was depressing, and I had no intention of revisiting it, but I somehow landed there. I believe it is impossible to visit Cambodia and not touch on the genocide in this country. It makes you wonder how a country can go from the mighty Khmer Empire of Angkor to the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge. Nearly all countries/nations/tribes had wars and killed countless people. At least they wanted something from their “enemy”.

In contrast, Cambodia killed their very own. In the relatively short period from 1975 – 1979, the Khmer Rouge managed to kill around two million Cambodians, and it’s the sheer brutality of these murders which gave one the creeps. As a result, a sombre mood prevailed at both the Killing Fields and at the former prison known as S-21. This now innocent-looking school building was once the largest torture centre in the country.

 

18 May - Phnom Penh – Traeng Trayueng - 90 kilometres

Being 8h00 on a Monday morning and with major roadworks underway, getting out of Phnom Penh was an utter nightmare. Cambodians drive in weird and wonderful ways as well as on both sides of the road. Not surprisingly, I had a minor collision involving a motorbike coming in the opposite direction, which ripped my front pannier. The pannier was held together by duct tape for the remainder of the trip.

The good road out of Phnom Penh didn’t last long and soon became narrow and rough. At least the road had an excellent dirt shoulder. Route 4, heading south, led into the wind, a bit of a double-edged sword as the breeze kept me cool but slowed the pace considerably. Ninety kilometres out, the Chanreah Guesthouse rolled into view and made a good enough place to spend the night.

The restaurant across the street provided a delicious bowl of curry noodle soup. The food was so good that I later returned to get another bowl. It was remarkable to see how Cambodians stood together, trying to overcome their sad history. The guesthouse owner built a substantial open shed, housing volleyball courts and snooker tables. This was where the village kids came to play and practice. The owner didn’t charge a single cent, and he didn’t even sell alcohol or soft drinks to cover his expenses.

 

19 May - Traeng Trayueng – Veal Rinh - 93 kilometres

The landscape became hillier as the route headed south towards the coast. Much of the land in the country’s southwest is covered by the Cardamom Mountains, and one needs to cross these mountains to reach Thailand.

Upon arriving in Veal Rinh, I did not want to travel an additional 50 kilometres to Sihanoukville to check out the diving, so I opted to stay at a conveniently situated guesthouse.

 

20 - 22 May - Veal Rinh – Sihanoukville - 53 kilometres

The following day, I travelled the short distance to Sihanoukville, where bungalow-style digs at the Reef Resort sported a swimming pool and made perfect accommodation. The owner offered an excellent deal, and although my initial plan wasn’t to stay long, the price was too good to ignore. Unfortunately, the diving did not turn out as well as expected and it was best to give it a miss. I did virtually zero, apart from enjoying the swimming pool.

 

23 May - Sihanoukville – Koh Kong - By bus

Usually, it rained hard in Southeast Asia and was soon over. However, it continued raining this morning, and I was reluctant to get underway due to my broken pannier. My lazy existence in Sihanoukville should’ve been used to fix the pannier, but I forgot all about it. Although taped up, the tape had pulled loose, and instead of fixing the bag, I hopped on a bus to the border and, within a few hours, was in Koh Kong. How this move would solve the problem was a mystery, as the pannier still needed fixing.

Biking the same route twice wasn’t overly exciting, and I found it hard to get motivated. After finding a room in Koh Kong, I half-heartedly attempted to fix the pannier. As the pannier was beyond repair, putting everything in a waterproof bag was easier. An internet search revealed an Ortlieb shop in Bangkok, and I planned to check them out.

 

24 May - Koh Kong

Instead of crossing the border into Thailand, a trip upriver looked far more interesting. The excursion made a good change of scenery and was money well spent.

The boat slowly puttered upriver for almost an hour and a half. From there on, an overgrown trail led up the mountain to a waterfall; luckily, our guide had a machete and could hack open the path. The landscape was lush and green, and the weather was humid as we strolled through dense forests to reach the falls. After a swim and lunch, we retraced our steps. Halfway, our guide scrambled up a tree and returned with a sizable coconut for each. In no time, he chopped the coconut open and even crafted straws from the reeds.


 25 May - Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand - 108 kilometres

The Cambodian immigration office was only 10 kilometres away across the Meteuk River, and the Thailand border control was a short ride from there. As the rain continued throughout the day, it seemed like the dry season was coming to an end. Despite the rain, I cycled 100 kilometres to Trat, a town with a few basic guesthouses. This also marked the end of my journey through Cambodia and brought me to Thailand for the fifth time.

 

Monday, 4 May 2015

071 CYCLING THAILAND (4) - APPLYING FOR A NEW PASSPORT



71 THAILAND (4)

Bangkok - Cambodia

 338 Kilometres - 7 Days

26 April - 3 May 2015

 

26-27 April - Mae Sot – Bangkok - By bus - 31 km

My main priority was reaching the South African Embassy in Bangkok to apply for a new passport. During that time, Thailand only granted a two-week stay at land borders and, as I had to apply for a new passport and cycle to the nearest border, I knew I couldn't waste any time. I hastily packed up and cycled to the bus station but, to my dismay, I discovered that the next bus was only available at 18:50. After purchasing the ticket, I returned to the hotel, left my bike in their care, and went on a walkabout. However, it soon became too hot and I decided to return to the hotel.

The bus ride to Bangkok was comfortable and relatively pleasant. I must have drifted off to sleep as I suddenly woke up at the ungodly hour of 3 a.m. The bus arrived at the Bangkok bus terminal, and I quickly got off to retrieve my bicycle and panniers. The bus station was situated about 10 - 15 kilometres out of town and surrounded by road works as a new metro line was being constructed. The previous night's rain had made the roads wet and muddy as I ventured into the darkness, hoping the muddy puddles did not conceal any open utility holes. One could easily disappear down one of them and never be seen again.

I had assumed that cycling into Bangkok would be easy at such an early hour, but the lack of streetlights made the ride somewhat nerve-wracking. However, the streets were unusually quiet, with only the homeless, drunk and the genuinely bizarre out at that time. I couldn't help but chuckle, realising that I was out there too and could easily have fallen into one or more of those categories.

 

28-30 April - Bangkok

The next day was a busy one at the Embassy as I organised my new passport. It almost felt like returning to work, filling in forms and paying money. I haven't done such a thing in a long time and couldn't say I liked it.

Suddenly, I noticed men in suits walking, briefcases in hand, talking on mobile phones. I overheard people making deals and their body language and tone of voice made my stomach turn. I felt blessed that I wasn't sitting at that table. I walked right past, licking my ice cream, smiling, and thinking, "Been there, done that". I felt grateful for being homeless and having only my iron horse and a tent. However, I might change my mind about that statement while pedalling up the next mountain pass.

 

1 May - Bangkok – Chachoengsao - 85 kilometres

The new passport was estimated to take five months! Since my passport had only two empty pages left and I had five months to spare, I decided to explore the rest of Southeast Asia once again. It took me almost an entire day to escape Bangkok's vast and busy city limits.

 

2 May - Chachoengsao - Sa Kaeo - 125 kilometres

It was another hot day but, thankfully, clouds gathered, and it started raining around midday. I was glad for the respite and sought shelter at a roadside restaurant. The lady didn't speak English, and I didn't speak Thai, but I could order a good cup of coffee from the menu on the wall.

I took my time drinking it while waiting for the storm to pass before continuing to Sa Kaeo, about 30 kilometres away. A building resembling a hotel made me stop to inquire about a room. Although there were no English signs, the receptionist used a calculator to indicate the room rate.

 

3 May - Sa Kaeo, Thailand – Saophoan (Sisophon), Cambodia - 107 kilometres

Upon arriving at the Po Pet border, one left Thailand's relatively organised environment and entered a somewhat more chaotic Cambodia. The border crossing was particularly hectic, as it was part of the Border Market, requiring one to navigate through the maze of stalls before finally reaching the immigration office.