MALAYSIA (2)3,205 Kilometres - 66 Days8
June – 11 September 2015
8 June - Hat Yai, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia - 105 km
After
an easy 55-kilometre cycle, I arrived at the Thailand-Malaysia border. It was a
hassle-free border crossing, and I was automatically granted a 90-day stay,
which was a relief. Sixty kilometres later, I reached Alor Setar, which is
known as the gateway to Langkawi. However, I hadn't planned to go there and was
only looking for a place to spend the night.
While
no country is perfect, some come closer to paradise than others. With Malaysia’s
delicious cuisine that blends Malay, Chinese, and Indian, I was in my element
and felt that Malaysia rightfully earned a top spot on my list of paradise-like
destinations. The aroma of spices and the sizzle of the hotplates at the night
market next to the guesthouse where I stayed was a sensory delight. I was
spoilt for choice and couldn't resist trying more than one roti canai,
especially since they were inexpensive.
9
June - Alor Setar – Penang – 100 km
The ride
to Butterworth was relaxed and offered views of scenic rice paddies and
beautiful temples and mosques. Once in Butterworth, I boarded a ferry that
transported pedestrians, cars, and motorbikes to the island of Penang. A few
minutes later, we docked at famous Georgetown.
I discovered
a crappy but inexpensive abode with an air-con and window (considered a
bargain). The guidebook mentioned that Penang was known as the ‘Pearl of the
Orient, and it lived up to its reputation as I saw rickshaws peddling past Chinese
shophouses. Georgetown was further renowned for its street food, and countless
vendors were selling Malay, Indian, and Chinese cuisine at the numerous stands
that lined the town's narrow lanes. Feeling famished, I rushed to the nearest food
cart to grab my daily plate of Nasi Goreng.
10
June - Georgetown, Penang
Although
Georgetown’s centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it remains a working town
with Chinese shophouses where people live and work. Rickshaws pedalled tourists
around the labyrinth of chaotic streets and cobbled pathways, past British
Raj-era architecture, strings of paper lanterns, and retro-chic pubs,
boutiques, and cafes. I spent the day searching for famous street art, with a camera
in hand, and my efforts were well rewarded. Street art was dotted all over
town, and locating it was an enjoyable challenge that took the best part of the
day.
11
June - Georgetown, Penang
I
wasn’t entirely done with all I wanted to see in Georgetown, so I extended my
stay by one more day. I explored the narrow alleys, discovered more street art,
and came across many interesting sights. My ramble led me past the joss stick
maker, the goldsmith, the garland makers and the ever-present food vendors.
Through Little India and Little China and past the old clan jetties, I
meandered before returning to my abode in Love Lane.
12
June - Georgetown – Taman Damai – 55 km
Not
in the mood for cycling but not for staying either, I dragged my heels, making
my way to the ferry for the return trip to the mainland.
No
sooner were we underway, than rain came pelting down. In Southeast Asia, the rain
comes in droves, and motorcycles and scooters usually pull over at designated
places during such weather. I followed suit and waited until the worst of it passed.
Barely a few kilometres further, the heavens opened once more. What can a woman
do but find digs and watch the weather from the porch while drinking a tall
Tiger?
13
June - Taman Damai – Taiping - 44 km
My
next stop was Taiping, known for being the wettest town in the region. Even
during the driest month of June, the city still receives significant rainfall,
with 159 mm of precipitation. As a result, it's almost impossible to pass
Taiping without getting soaked. As there was no real reason to stop early, I
took some time to explore the city.
When
I arrived at the hotel, I was surprised that they allowed me in, as I was
dripping water all over their shiny tiles. Unfortunately, the rain never
stopped, and I ended up staying at the hotel for the rest of the day, not doing
much except eating.
14
June - Taiping – Lumut - 95 km
Breakfast
was from McDonald’s after which a 95-kilometre ride took me to Lumut, the departure
point to Pulau Pangkor. The rain dissipated, and the previous night’s rainfall
brought cooler weather. The temperature was around 30°C, and although
incredibly humid, biking remained a pleasure. Lumut took me by surprise as it looked
good enough to spend a night instead of getting directly onto the ferry to
Pangkor Island.
15
June – Lumut
First
thing in the morning, I went to the mall to do some shopping. Once done, I
bought a photography magazine I read at Starbucks while having coffee. It was
nice to have a regular day for a change. However, purchasing the magazine was
maybe not the best idea, as reading it made me want to buy a new lens.
En
route to my abode, I made a quick stop at the Mangrove Park to snap a few pics
of the monkeys. While doing so, the buggers stole my water bottle off the bike,
which I had thought was tightly secured into its cage! I waved my fist at them but
swear I could hear them laughing from the treetops.
16
June - Lumut
The
reason I was dragging my heels was that I was waiting for my new passport. With
no word of the replacement passport, I assumed it best to remain in Malaysia as
it was one of the few countries allowing a ninety-day stay. After which all one
had to do was cross the border into Singapore and upon returning you were given
an additional three months.
Malaysia
wasn’t overly expensive, and although not part of the plan, Lumut appeared to
be an excellent place to lay low. Staying put was a whole new experience. I was
happy in the tropics, and there was nowhere else I would rather wait until the
passport arrived.
I
liked Lumut as it was situated along the ocean, and was close enough to the
larger town of Seri Manjung. Lumut further had various restaurants and bars, as
it was the departure point for tourists to Pangkor Island. I searched for a
place to rent and was surprised to find a considerable number of options available
in such a small village. I treated myself to a lovely studio apartment with a
small balcony. The condo was quite spacious for a studio, and the complex came
with a massive pool that was all mine to enjoy as it was Ramadan and Malaysia
was relatively quiet at the time. The staff was very accommodating and even
provided me with a little table and chairs for the balcony. They also took care
of my laundry and offered me one of their laptops with a big screen.
17–24
June - Lumut
As
part of my new routine, I started going for a jog followed by a swim. However,
I needed running shoes and swimming goggles. Despite being determined to get
running fit, it turned out to be more challenging than I had anticipated. I
wasn't sure if I had enough patience to continue with such a slow start.
25
June – 5 July - Lumut
Fortunately,
I love tropical regions. While returning from the shops, I had a great time
dodging monkeys that tried to snatch my shopping. However, renting an apartment
for a whole month was a bit excessive. Before even reaching the halfway mark of
the month, I was already eager to leave.
Feeling
bored, I cycled to Marine Island, hoping to go scuba diving, but the shop was
closed. Restless, I headed to the Mall instead, where I pampered myself with a
facial and later explored the Rahmat Maritime Museum, a navy battleship that
was a fun place to visit.
6
July - Lumut
The
twin islands of Pangkor and Pangkor Laut are situated three miles offshore. They
are home to several fishing villages featuring traditional Malay houses. A
round-trip ferry ticket costs only 10MYR, making these islands a popular
destination for both backpackers and domestic travellers. I, too, joined the
crowds to explore the islands and see what they had to offer.
7
July - Lumut - Bangkok
Months
after applying for a new passport, the passport saga continued. Only after I
made a phone call to the Bangkok Embassy did I learn I had to pay double the
original fee as I had lost the passport. Unfortunately, nobody had informed me
beforehand about this additional cost. Furthermore, I had to pay this fee at
the embassy itself. It's ironic how reality can sometimes be more unbelievable
than fiction. I hastily packed a backpack and hopped on a bus to Bangkok.
8
July - Bangkok
Twenty-four
hours later, the bus arrived in one of my favourite cities. Peachy Guesthouse
was my abode of choice in Bangkok as it was cheap as chips. While there, I
noticed a familiar-looking pannier by the rubbish bin. I knew the pannier quite
well as it belonged to Ernest, an old cycling buddy with whom I had parted ways
in the Americas. It seemed that he had stayed at the same guesthouse recently
and, like me, his panniers were also falling apart.
9
July - Bangkok
First
thing in the morning, I caught a water taxi to the Embassy. I’m always thrilled
to use city transport, like everyone else. I paid the required fee at the
embassy and then trundled around the many malls.
Afterwards,
enough time remained to visit the National Museum. To celebrate the 60th
birthday of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the Fine Arts Department hosted
a special exhibition, “Feminine Deities: Buddhism, Hinduism And Indigenous
Cults In Thailand”. Maybe they weren’t well-liked, as the majority were
headless.
10–11
July - Bangkok
Staying
in Bangkok one more day was easy as I was in no hurry to go anywhere, and Bangkok
provided an endless array of exciting events and activities.
By
evening, Khao San Road was its usual hive of activity. Situated in the heart of
Backpackerville, it’s here where you could be pierced, tattooed and dreadlocked
if you wished. You could eat bugs, shop for jewellery and clothes (which I did)
and buy fake IDs, driver’s licenses, diving cards and even photographer’s
passes (tempting… imagine what one could do with such an ID). By evening, an
outdoor cultural show had me transfixed.
The
idea of leaving Thailand without watching the national sport is quite inconceivable.
Muay Thai is a sport like no other. You can, seemingly, use knees, elbows,
shins, hands and feet. It’s an intriguing sport, and the men are well built which
is enough reason for me to watch.
Finally,
the time came to leave Bangkok and return to Malaysia. This time, I believed it
was far nicer to go by train than by bus. I love how the tray tables unfolded
when serving food (tablecloth and all) and how they make the beds at night. It reminds
me of a long-forgotten era. There’s nothing quite like crawling in and falling
asleep to the hypnotic clickety-clack of the wheels on the tracks. I love how
the sound steadily increases as the train gets up to speed—pure magic.
12–16
July - Lumut
Arriving
in Lumut felt like returning home. I smiled at the staff, saying, “Hi, hello.
Did you enjoy your holiday?” This is typically followed by, “Have you eaten?” a
standard greeting in Malaysia.
17
July - Lumut – Sungai Besar - 107 km
Finally,
my last day in Lumut arrived, and I was happy to pack up and resume my journey.
Cycling the same country twice could be somewhat monotonous but there are
always new places to explore and I had no choice but to wait until the new
passport arrived.
I pedalled
until reaching Sungai Besar, where I found inexpensive accommodation. The
evening was enjoyable as people celebrated Eid, marking the end of the Islamic
holy month of Ramadan. This celebration, known as Hari Raya Aidilfitri, is a
time when countless Malay families wear new clothes in the same hue. Men wear
loose shirts with trousers, and women wear full-length blouse and skirt
combinations, typically made of silk or silk-like material. I understood that
this tradition signified unity.
18
July - Sungai Besar – Sekinchan - 25km
Plagued
with a stomach bug, I pulled into Sekinchan. I scarcely took any pictures as I
had other things on my mind (LOL). The room rates in Sekinchan were more pricey
than usual as the Eid festival was in full swing. The festival was a family-and-friends
day where people visited family and asked forgiveness for wrongdoings that
occurred in the past year. However, most people seemed focused on eating during
the festival.
19
July - Sekinchan – Klang - 80km
My
late departure was due to waiting until the weather cleared and it was late
before I pedalled out of Sekinchan. Unfortunately, the drizzle continued for the
best part of the day. Still, I didn’t need to run into the bushes like the
previous day, and the overcast weather made it comfortable riding. The traffic
was hectic but, mercifully, a smaller path ran parallel to the main road.
20-21
July - Klang – Taman Pura Prima - 30 km
From
Klang, I veered slightly inland to visit Peter Yoong, a fellow cyclist and
Warmshower host I met in Thailand while on his Southeast Asia tour a few months
earlier. A short and easy ride led south along a separate motorbike lane,
complete with road signs.
I
soon arrived at Peter’s place, and was greeted by his lovely family. Peter even
had a cold beer waiting for me.
The
following morning, we visited the market and afterwards Peter baked three pies.
Did I pick the right Warmshowers host, or what? By evening, Ivan, a fellow
cyclist, arrived. Peter drove us to Kuala Lumpur, allowing us to take pictures
of the famous Petronas Twin Towers.
22
July - Taman Pura Prima – Lukut - 115 km
Peter
suggested taking the coastal route as a shortcut to Port Dickson, and it turned
out to be a great idea as it was far quieter and more scenic. The path cut
through oil palm plantations until it reached a river where a small ferry
carried people across. Once on the opposite bank, a short distance remained to
Lukut.
23-25
July - Lukut – Malacca - 100 km
A
pleasant day led across large rivers and past green and lush swampy areas, precisely
what one would expect of Malaysia. My arrival in Malacca was in good time, and
I searched for the Warmshowers host. Howard ran a small guesthouse and hostel where
cyclists could stay on the rooftop terrace for free.
Howard
was incredibly generous and helpful, providing complimentary coffee and tea.
The following day, I took my bike to be serviced and explored the streets of
old Malacca, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It
was easy to stay an extra day. First, I went on a free walking tour and then
took my camera to a shop to have it cleaned. On my return, I stumbled upon a
bonsai show. Although I don't know much about bonsais, they were absolutely
magnificent.
26
July - Malacca – Batu Pahat - 88 km
Not
a great deal happened during the day, except it started raining, and instead of
becoming soaked, I found a place to take cover until it was over.
27
July - Batu Pahat – Pontian Kecil - 77 km
During
my ride to Pontian Kecil, I made my usual stops to refill my water supply or sample
the local food. I initially planned to stay at a Warmshower accommodation, but
due to a misunderstanding, I had to find an alternative place to stay.
Interestingly, the hotel staff still used an abacus, which made for an
intriguing experience. It's incredible how diverse and unique our world can be.
28
July - Pontian Kecil – Kota Tinggi - 105 km
I
spent the better part of the day riding on busy main roads, which wasn't very
pleasant. Unfortunately, I got caught in the rain again, but it didn't last
long. When I finally arrived in Kota Tinggi, I had enough of the awful traffic
and decided to stop at a hotel. Luckily, there was a food court right next door
where I was able to enjoy delicious curry noodle soup.
29-30
July - Kota Tinggi – Mersing - 105 km
The route
to the East Coast was primarily undulating through oil palm plantations but,
overall, it was a comfortable ride. In Mersing, a spot at the famous Embassy
Hotel was the best value in town, and I paid for two nights’ accommodation.
The day
after, I called the SA Embassy in Bangkok and they revealed that the
application was finally on the Home Affairs’ system. I hoped that matters
wouldn’t take too long from then on. The rest of the day was spent doing
regular rest-day chores.
31
July - Mersing – Chalets Kampong Merchong - 96 km
The
coastal road eventually led onto Route 3 via Rompin. Sadly, workers were
clearing the natural forest to convert it into oil palm plantations. A little beyond
that a fire was used to make clearing easier. It's always a sad sight.
My path
took me past a massive brick-built aviary, used as a swiftlet and edible bird’s
nest farm. At the time, a kilogram of white nests could cost up to US$2,000,
and red nests up to US$10,000, making it an extremely lucrative business.
Basic
chalets along the river made it an excellent place to spend the night. Sadly, the
air was thick with smoke from fires, to such an extent that I secretly planned what
to grab when push came to shove. Fortunately, a thunderstorm came to the rescue
and calmed things down a tad. Phew, what a relief.
1-2
August - Chalets Kampong Merchong – Kuantan - 111 km
Roadside
stands sold various exotic cuisine - lemang was a delicacy of sticky rice baked
in bamboo. It’s a good thing I take pictures as I sometimes think nothing
happened until I look at my photos. Someone once said: Travellers see more than
they remember and remember more than they see. I thought it a very true
statement.
Kuantan
was considerably larger than anticipated, featuring a backpackers' hostel without
bicycle storage. So, instead, I settled for a guesthouse. Luckily, the place was
opposite the night market, and as I hadn’t eaten all day, I shouldn’t have gone
shopping hungry.
I
tried to fix the laptop’s touchpad but only broke the entire thing. Therefore,
I sought out the computer shop in the morning.
3
August - Kuantan – Kerteh - 97 km
I
laughed out loud when biking out of Kuantan - the joy of moving on and the
freedom it brings can sometimes be overwhelming. I must admit I usually have
this feeling on the downhill. LOL. Although several places of interest were
sprinkled along the way, I didn’t feel like stopping and biked until reaching
Kerteh. Unfortunately, conservative Kerteh didn’t have a considerable number of
attractions. Not even beer but a good enough bed could be found, which was all
I needed.
4-5
August - Kerteh – Kuala Terengganu - 117 km
Once
again, a pleasant and easy ride led past plenty of fishing villages and across
wide rivers, reminding me that this was indeed the tropics. The Seaview Hotel
lacked a sea view but had a ground-floor room to store the bike. Nearby
Chinatown made for a relaxing stroll and provided a much-needed meal.
By morning,
I handed in my laundry and returned to Chinatown, which offered interesting 3D
street art. The paintings were so lifelike that it was hard to tell where the
real thing ended and the picture started. The area was fascinating, full of
colour and delicious food. Markets were crammed with unfamiliar merchandise and
strange smells, making it a fascinating visit.
6
August - Kuala Terengganu – Kuala Besut - 109 km
It
took the best part of the day to cycle the 109 kilometres to Kuala Besut, as cycling
was into a mild headwind. The route was pan flat and hugged the coast. The East
Coast was dotted with small islands, the most famous being the Perhentian
Islands, which I was heading to.
Once
in Kuala Besut, food stalls miraculously appeared, and I had plenty to choose
from—it was a good thing, too, as I hadn’t eaten all day and was starving.
7-9
August - Kuala Besut – Perhentian Islands - By ferry
In
Kuala Besut, the friendly guesthouse owner agreed to store my bicycle while I
visited the nearby islands. The ferry stopped at various places, but I got off
at Longbeach. The village offered budget accommodation and cheap diving. Oh La
La came at a reasonable price and I booked a dive for the following morning and
spent the rest of the day snorkelling.
The next
day, we took a boat ride to a pinnacle about 20 minutes away. Although the
visibility wasn't excellent, the dive was still incredible, with plenty of
marine life along the reef. In the evening, I joined other divers for a
delicious supper on the beach. The following day, we went on another dive to a
cave. The water was so warm that diving without a wetsuit and only a T-shirt
was possible. We returned just in time for me to catch the return ferry to the
mainland.
10
August - Kuala Besut – Kuala Terengganu - 112 km
Some
days are stranger than others and this was one of them. Soon after departing a
motorbike pulled up next to me and with lightning-fast action, the man reached
out and grabbed my boob and then sped off. I let rip with profanities and gave
him the middle finger. He highly likely didn’t understand “Jou ma se moer!” Ha,
ha, ha.
Later,
a friendly chap stopped and offered me a ride to Terengganu. To him, Terengganu
was too far to cycle in a day, even though only 50 kilometres remained. I
declined his offer, thanked him for his kindness and with my faith in humanity
restored, proceeded to Terengganu where my arrival was in good time. I picked
up fried noodles and beer in Chinatown and headed to the Seaview Hotel without
the sea view.
11
August - Kuala Terengganu – Dundun - 94 km
During
my ride to Dundun, the route passed numerous roadside stands selling
satay-skewered chicken wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on a smoky charcoal
grill. At one of the stalls, I realised I was wearing odd shoes, which was
quite a feat considering I only had two pairs.
Unfortunately,
I spent most of the day riding into a stiff breeze, and midway to Dundun, the rain
came gushing down so heavily that I had to take cover. Dundun had several
options for accommodation along the beachfront. However, they were all quite
expensive and, in the end, I chose the least expensive of the bunch. Big
mistake, as it turned out to be the worst place I have stayed at during my time
in Malaysia. On days like this, I must remind myself that I’m not buying the
place and that I'll be out of there by morning.
12-13
August - Dungun – Cherating - 86 km
Cherating
was a charming fishing village along the coast. Before direct transport from
the highlands to the Perhentian Islands, travellers stopped here to enjoy a bit
of R&R. Nowadays, very few travellers stop in Cherating, and the place has
a sad air of ghostliness and decline. However, heaps of accommodation with
practically no one there made finding bargain rooms easy. Staying the following
day was easy, and it was an excellent place to do laundry and lounge about.
14
August - Cherating – Pekan - 90 km
Retracing
one’s steps is never much fun, but staying in Pekan was intriguing. Not only is
this where the Sungai Pahang (the longest river in Peninsular Malaysia) flows
into the South China Sea, but the town was further home to rows of traditional
Chinese shophouses.
At my
abode, I debated where to go once I received my new passport. The monsoon
season was on its way, and I was drawn to India where it was about to end. Not
having cycled Bangladesh made the country a fascinating option.
15
August - Pekan – Rompin - 94 km
An
easy day of biking led along the ocean. As requested, I received word from the
Embassy in Bangkok informing me my passport was sent to Bangkok instead of Cape
Town. The passport was already in the diplomatic bag and would arrive in
Bangkok in two days. I was understandably sceptical regarding this info. If
that were the case, I could either have it couriered or collect it myself. That’s
if the Thai border control would let me in with a nearly full passport.
16
August - Rompin – Mersing - 66 km
Mersing
was only a short distance away, so I didn’t bother with breakfast before
setting out. The coastal route was far more pleasant than the main road, and
the ride became one of many coffee stops and grand vistas. In Mersing, settling
for the Embassy Hotel was a no-brainer, as rooms came with hot water, air
conditioning, and TV.
My
laptop finally gave in. Although it still worked, the screen was shaky, and I
guessed it was only a matter of time before it packed up entirely.
17
August - Mersing – Kluang - 90 km
The
ride would’ve been nice if only the road had been slightly wider, and the
multitude of trucks didn’t make biking any easier. Instead, the way mainly led
through oil palm plantations and partly through a natural forest.
Sadly,
I spotted a distressed-looking monkey and noticed her little one was knocked
down. The poor mother looked stressed and disorientated, pacing up and down as
any human would. How incredibly sad.
18
August - Kluang – Muar - 108 km
The
17th came and went, and still no passport news. Sigh. I assume the
passport wasn’t in the diplomatic bag as promised. The route to Muar was
uneventful, and once in Muar the town was more significant than I had foreseen.
I
had a long chat with the man at the reception desk. What impressed me was that Malaysians
generally speak up to six languages: predominantly Malay, English, Cantonese
and Mandarin, and various other dialects.
19
August - Muar – Port Dickson - 126 km
I
pushed on to Port Dickson as I had already cycled this section a few weeks
earlier. Once in Port Dickson, I pitched the tent on the beach under trees, a
lovely spot with a view over the ocean, where I sat watching the sunset before
trundling to a nearby restaurant.
20
August - Port Dickson – Puchong - 90 km
No
day comes without a few surprises and this morning was no different. I woke to
a massive storm and had to lean against the tentpole with all my might to
prevent it from breaking or tearing the tent. Rain bucketed down, and I feared I
pitched the tent too close to the water’s edge as I could hear the waves
crashing ashore. Fortunately, the tide never came quite that high but when the
storm subsided, I discovered seafoam inches from the tent. Phew, that was too
close for comfort!
Sopping
wet, I biked toward Puchong where the plan was to stay at Peter’s place for a
few days or at least until my new passport arrived.
21-25
August - Puchong
I
hardly did anything, apart from chatting with Peter and his family. Another
guest, Carolina from Brazil, also stayed there and helped Peter with his
garden. Carolina was a lovely, energetic lady who always looked for ways to
help. She was part of a wonderful programme called HelpX, which allowed members
to stay with locals for free in return for helping them with various tasks.
The
days slipped by unnoticed. At last, I have organised for my passport (still in
South Africa) to be sent to Malaysia. Then, surprisingly, my laptop returned to
life and seemed to work fine.
It
turned out to be the Hungry Ghost Festival. In ancient Chinese folk culture,
people believed this was a month of ghosts. It’s thought that the gates of hell
are thrown open, releasing hungry ghosts to wander the Earth in search of food.
During this time, people placed food and paper money outside, and at temples,
they burned exquisite paper houses, cars, mobile phones, and even paper shoes, so
the spirits didn’t have to go barefoot. These ghosts are believed to be unfortunate
souls who committed evil deeds in their former lives, including overeating, drinking,
gambling, and smoking. A substantial amount of these items is put out for these
sad souls. If that’s indeed the case, I am doomed to become a hungry ghost.
LOL.
26
August - Puchong
Peter
drove us to the nearby Hindu temple. The temple was brand new, and parts were
still being painted. Hindu temples are elaborately decorated, and the
architecture is simply breathtaking. I understand that artisans were brought in
from India.
Although
these temples are places of worship, it’s interesting to note that the Hindu
Monk, Swami Vivekananda taught that temples are simply means of reaching God,
not an end. “Man is to become divine by realising the divine. Idols, temples,
churches, or books are only supports.” ― Swami Vivekananda.
27
August - Puchong
Peter
and I set out in search of the alleged haunted house of Puchong. The home is
located on a hill in the suburb of Taman Tenaga. The story goes that the house
was once owned by a wealthy Chinese businessman who went bankrupt. He and his
entire family committed suicide but various versions of the story did the
rounds. Others say they were murdered by an unknown psychopath killer living in
the house’s walls. The place was left to go to ruins in fear of the souls
living there.
I
read that Bomohs (Malaysian witch doctors) use the house to practice their
rituals. Stories of Pontianaks (female vampire ghosts) taking up residence in
the place were popular. Reports tell of people seeing lights turning on and
off, even though power and water have been cut off for years. As could be
expected, people heard screams of children and, of course, saw shadowy figures.
We found the place but no ghosts; only thousands of pursuing mosquitoes, which
one could easily have thought possessed. Needless to say, we made our way out
of there in a hurry.
28
August – 2 September - Puchong
Finally,
my passport arrived, and I was happy to move along. The question remained where
to go. India and Bangladesh were my first choices. Applying for visas in Kuala
Lumpur made sense, seeing I was already there. However, being a weekend, and
the following Monday a holiday, it was Tuesday before I went to the Bangladesh
Embassy. Peter drove me to the city only to find the Embassy only issued visas
to Malays. Hence, I decided to cycle north to Bangkok and apply for an Indian
visa there.
3
September - Puchong – Sekinchan - 110 km
Although
sad to leave Peter and his family, I was happy to get underway. Peter suggested
a smaller path along the coast, which was great for cycling and far better than
the main road. This was my kind of riding - a quiet path along the beach with only
a few monkeys and the odd monitor lizard.
4
September - Sekinchan – Sitiawan - 127 km
Breakfast
was roti canai, but barely 10 kilometres further, I had to make a Gaviscon
stop. Chillies, which I should’ve known by then, wasn’t such a good idea first
thing in the morning. Later, I returned to the tiny coastal path of the
previous day and proceeded past small fishing hamlets and lovely-looking
resorts with cabins on stilts over the water. My path weaved its way through
palm plantations until reaching a river that mercifully had a ferry to take me
across.
The
smoke haze wasn’t improving, but instead worsened. According to newspapers, the
causes of the fog were forest burning, smoke from factories, vehicle emissions,
and open burning. The pollution surely can’t be healthy. Nevertheless, nothing
of interest happened after crossing the river, and I pushed on to Sitiawan.
5
September - Sitiawan – Taiping - 90 km
Although
it was drizzling, it never rained awfully hard, so I continued until I reached Taiping
shortly past midday. Skipping breakfast left me starving, so I went hunting for
food almost immediately.
The
Taiping Zoo was open at night and made a great place to explore after sunset.
The zoo was dimly lit, resembling a full moon. I thought it quite magical
wandering about listening to the sounds of the night and smelling the damp
forest. Much grunting, stomping and chewing could be heard. While wondering
what I would do if a crocodile suddenly jumped at me, a deer bounced out from
behind a bush, giving me the fright of my life!
6
September - Taiping – Penang - 101 km
A
quick breakfast and I was on my way—although slightly further, minor paths made
a far more pleasant ride. Malaysia is exceptionally modern, and one can easily
forget how tropical the country is. The way crossed numerous rivers, all
jam-packed with fishing boats of all shapes and sizes. Finally, it spat me out
in Butterworth, where I boarded the ferry to Penang. Although there was a
bridge, the ferry was extremely popular with cars and motorbikes.
I
felt privileged to return to Penang with its historic district and an immense
variety of street food and street art. I searched for a visa agent as only a two-week
stay was typically granted at Thailand land borders. One can, nonetheless,
easily obtain a three-month visa beforehand but it comes at the cost of RM150.
As I planned on applying for an Indian and Bangladesh visa in Bangkok, I opted
for the three-month option.
Loads
of places offered visa services, and I handed my passport to them to do what
was necessary.
7
September - Penang
As
the visa took a day or two, I had a relaxing day. Finally, I started a new blog
as I couldn’t access the old one even though I knew the password, email and
username. The problem being I no longer had access to the phone number provided
many moons ago—what a load of crap!
I
finally gave up trying. The new blog kept me busy, as the last update was way
back in the Philippines in 2013. In fact, it took another seven years before I
could delete the old blog!
8
September - Penang
Working
on the blog occupied me as I desperately wanted to finish it before departing Malaysia.
At around midday, I collected my passport and then updated the blog. A saunter
around town revealed the town buzzing with the Hungry Ghost Festival. The
festival lasted roughly two weeks and occurred during June/July (Chinese
calendar).
Not all
areas celebrate the festival simultaneously—in some places festivities were
already finished, while others had just started. In Penang, giant joss sticks
were burning, food stands were everywhere, and live performances created a
festive atmosphere.
9
September - Penang
I emerged
to pouring rain and waited a while, but the rain never subsided. In the
meantime, I met fascinating people at the Love Lane Inn hostel. At least five of
them were travelling by motorbike. A French guy was travelling on an Australian
“Postie”, an Indian chap was on a motorbike, and so was the French couple. The
Australian travelled using local motorbikes, buying and selling them as he went
along. Taking them across borders was far too costly. I thus stayed and had a
couple of beers with the other travellers.
10
September - Penang – Guran - 110 km
I
finally departed via a secondary path, and though it drizzled on and off all
day, it wasn’t too terrible. Sadly, once in Pantai Merdeka, the ferry across
the river was nowhere to be seen. Even after asking around, I couldn’t locate
anyone to take me across, so I returned to the main road and onto Guran, which
had digs and food.
11
September - Guran, Malaysia – Sadao Border Post, Thailand - 105 km
It
turned out to be a good day of biking, the rain was gone and the sky was blue.
A small path ran flush along the main road, making pedalling easy. The rain of
the previous two days made for flooded rice paddies and fresh air, and the
countryside looked lush and green as my route headed to the border.
The
border crossing into Thailand was surprisingly troublesome. First, I now had
two passports (the old one and the new one), and second, you had to produce
cash as well as a return ticket. So, off I went to the bank to draw money,
which satisfied the officer. After explaining I was travelling by bicycle, they
mercifully didn’t insist on a ticket out of the country. By then, it was
already relatively late, and I overnighted in Sadao.
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