NEPAL722 Kilometres – 24 Days24 March – 16 April 2009
24 March – Gorakhpur, India – Bhairahawa
(Siddharthanagar), Nepal - 104km
Following a breakfast of Poori and curry veg,
I set out on my last leg in India. High time as well, seeing I’d been there
more than six months. The border crossing at Sunauli was ever so chaotic, but the
process seemed working chaos like all things in India. On the Nepali side I obtained
a one-month visa at $40 (a three-month visa was $100, and I didn’t have enough
money). Four kilometres north was the small village of Bhairahawa, sporting accommodation
at the Mt Everest Hotel. The room was a pleasant surprise as it was clean and
had a warm shower instead of only a bucket.
A walk to the ATM provided Nepalese rupees and
a new sim card. What a rigmarole the sim card was, fingerprinted and all.
25 March - Bhairahawa – Lumbini - 22km
I struggled to get the phone working and couldn’t
send SMS’s. Returning to the shop didn’t help either (language is always a
problem in a new country). As Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, was a short
ride away, I made the diversion to see what the place entailed. One would think
Buddha’s birthplace, an important pilgrimage site, overrun by tourists, but
Lumbini came as a pleasant surprise. Instead, it turned out a peaceful
pilgrimage spot. The area is a world heritage site and reminds of a peace park.
26 March - Lumbini – Butwal - 44km
From Butwal, a flat but hot and dusty ride
took me to Butwal. Butwal sits at a major junction and I stayed the night to decide
which direction to go. A road ran directly north, but once I laid eyes upon
what is known as the “hills”, I opted for the route past Chitwan National Park.
However, this choice only delayed the inevitable, as eventually, one would’ve
to cross the hills to reach Kathmandu.
I needed a place to charge my many electrical
devices, as Nepal’s power was even more erratic than in India. It appeared
electricity was available approximately 16 hours a day. The times vary from day
to day and town to town. The previous two nights, power was only available
between midnight and six in the morning. I thus never got around to charging my
devices.
27 March - Butwal – Narayangarh - 121km
The day came with the realisation it had been
two years since leaving home and I wondered how many had cycled from Cape Town
to Nepal. The trip was far more fascinating than ever imagined and no two days alike.
I was ready to depart at around eight-thirty
but wasn’t sure if one was allowed on the road taking the countrywide strike
and curfew. Protesters were burning tires and chanting slogans while a heavy
police presence prevailed. Eventually, at around 10h30 I was given the green
light and had the way all to myself. However, no vehicles were allowed due to
the strike, and only pedestrians and bicycles were out. Almost thirty kilometres
from Butwal, I’d the first taste of the “hills”. The route climbed about fifteen
kilometres, but where there’s an up there’s usually a down and I reached
Narayangarh in good time.
The Royal Rest House situated adjacent to the
road made overnighting convenient. Albeit not very Royal, the resthouse had a
generator and an outside window.
My food order contained two full meals. This often
happens when two people order one meal, but this was the first time it happened
on my own.
28 March - Narayangarh – Sauraha - 35km
A short ride led to Royal Chitwan National
park. Even though the route followed the main highway, road signs were non-existent,
to such an extent, I rode past the turnoff twice. I found loads of
accommodation in Sauraha, the village outside the park. Nearly all featured
cottages were set in lush gardens. Due to the political unrest, tourist numbers
haven’t returned in full to this part of Nepal. One could thus pick and choose
from an ample variety. Substantial discounts were offered at nearly all places
and I found a convenient cottage opposite the park entrance.
The rest of the village was rather touristy and
prices far higher than expected. Nepal was more expensive than India and my
money was fast running out.
Elephants were a common sight close to the
park. One could see “pahits” (a person who works with the same elephant throughout their
working life) walking their
elephants between the park and the river to give them their daily bath.
29 March - Sauraha
On elephant back, I set off into the park,
and what a great way to see the park. I subsequently discovered the brutal
business of elephant training, and I vowed never to take an elephant ride again.
That said, the deer and other animals seemed unperturbed by the elephants
strolling about. The park permit was valid the entire day and following a bite
to eat, I hopped on a canoe for a ride down the river. The ride lasted almost an
hour, after which a 3-hour walk took me to the start. Even though not a great
deal of wildlife was spotted, walking in the jungle was a great pleasure. However,
I saw plenty of birdlife, deer, the famous march mugger, and a few rhinos. In
South Africa, a walk in a nature reserve entails a guide carrying a rifle, but in
Nepal, the guides were only armed with a stick. I hoped we wouldn’t run into
any tigers or other dangerous animals.
By evening, and at my abode, I was lucky to
observe a tribal dance, performed for the benefit of guests staying at the same
resort.
30 March - Sauraha – Royal Beach Camp - 84km
I biked along while high mountains loomed in
the foreground. My path followed the Trishuli River gorge, where teahouses clung
to the cliffside and prayer flags blew in the wind. A big smile crossed my face
- a grin I wore the remainder of the day. It felt like I’d finally arrived in
Nepal. At Mugling, I veered towards Kathmandu, still next to the Trishuli River.
The road wasn’t flat but never gained any altitude as there were as many down
as up hills. I continued until I spotted a river rafting camp sporting a
beautiful setting and beach huts. Camping there was fun and we sat around, enjoying
a few beers and chilling while watching the river flow past.
31 March - Royal beach camp – Kathmandu -
90km
I was informed of a 1500m climb ahead and following
a breakfast of delicious pancakes, I proceeded in the direction of Kathmandu. The
best part of the way was climbing up the mountainside (still next to the river)
but the most significant altitude gain came in a short ten to fifteen km stretch.
A zigzag path proceeded up the mountain and from afar, one could see trucks
snaking their way up the pass. I switched to my smallest gear, put my head down
and grinded my way to the top. From the top of the pass a long descent
headed into Kathmandu.
Unfortunately, the rain started bucketing down and I reached central Kathmandu
freezing and soaked to the bone. Shivering, I booked into the first hotel as I wasn’t
going to search for the tourist suburb of Thamel in peak hour traffic and
pouring rain. That could wait until the following day.
By morning, I discovered my abode was indeed in
Thamel and only moved to a cheaper place. Thamel has a lively tourist trade,
with heaps of accommodation, souvenir shops, and trekking/adventure businesses
lining the narrow alleys. I further ran into Ernest, who’d reached Kathmandu
ahead of me as he took a shortcut over the mountains. That night Ernest and I
went out to places I frequented in Kathmandu during my trekking expedition to Annapurna.
1–6 April - Kathmandu
Three years previously, I trekked the
well-known Annapurna Trail, one of the most scenic routes through the Himalayas.
The scenery and the humbleness of the mountain people stayed with me. I was thus
delighted to be back among the Nepali people.
Staying in the tourist area of Thamel with
its trekking shops, restaurants and Tiger balm sellers came easily. It’s a
cosmopolitan area, swarming with tourists, trekkers, climbers and bicycle
rickshaws all crammed into its narrow alleys. So I’d my bike serviced, laundry
done and sent a few postcards home.
As the third was my birthday, I splashed out
on a pizza and a glass of wine. I even had my nose pierced even though I don’t have
a nose one wants to draw attention to.
The dream of cycling from Kathmandu to Tibet was
peppered with problems. First, the Tibetan border was closed to individual
tourists. The only way to pass through Tibet en route to China was by an organised
tour to Lhasa and then by train to China. These tours were expensive and still
meant one couldn’t cycle Tibet, and a new plan was made.
Sadly, the only remaining option was to fly
to Thailand and bike to China. So we bought tickets for 17th April
on the notoriously unreliable Royal Nepal Airlines, as they were the cheapest.
As we’d plenty of time, Ernest spent three
full days cleaning, oiling and adjusting his bike and found a replacement rear
axle. I wandered the alleyways, drank coffee and read. As Thamel caters to
tourists, a large variety of food was available, ranging from pizzas, felafel,
Indian-, Mexican- and Tibetan food. Yak cheese and yoghurt were readily
available, but I found most of the food bland after six months in India. I
still ordered tasty South Indian dishes at restaurants instead of Napali food,
mainly Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils). It, however, remained a novelty to order a
cheese sandwich from one of the many sandwich shops in the alleys.
Before departing, I discovered the rear axle
on my bike was broken. How strange, and couldn’t help wondering where Ernest
found his replacement axel. A whole day was spent having a new axel fitted.
Again, I was surprised at the excellent bicycle parts in Kathmandu.
7 April - Kathmandu – Mugling - 115km
A day that should’ve been easy riding left me
exhausted (I must’ve been coming down with a cold). A short 400-meter climb took
us out of Kathmandu Valley and a 1500-meter roller-coaster descent led into the Mahesh Khola Valley. The
remainder of the way was an undulating ride along the Trishuli river featuring beautiful
vistas. The weather was hot and dusty, quite different from a considerably
cooler Kathmandu. On reaching Mugling, I was dead tired and fell asleep shortly
after arriving.
Mugling is a small but busy town about
halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, on the main road from the South (India).
Therefore, the village was a popular truck and bus stop and came with constant
honking and revving of lorries and busses spewing black exhaust fumes.
8-9 April - Mugling – Bandipur - 37km
Ernest’s birthday arrived with the hooting
and revving of buses and trucks. The path continued west in the direction of
Pokhara but following thirty kilometres of cycling, we turned off to Bandipur. The
way to Bandipur was along a sharp eight-kilometre climb. The notorious air
pollution meant chest infection was a common occurrence. In Kathmandu (as in
India), the air pollution made nearly everyone wear masks when out in traffic.
I should’ve done the same.
I subsequently discovered my rear brake didn’t
release completely. No wonder I was tired the previous day. Finally, halfway up
the hill, I released the brake, after which cycling became far more effortless.
An extra day was spent in Bandipur, giving my
chest a chance to recover and to explore the area around Bandipur.
10-11 April - Bandipur – Pokhara - 70km
An exhilarating descent led to the main road
(I ensured my rear brake was secured) and then a steady climb to Pokhara.
Unfortunately, Ernest had a puncture on the way down. He had to do repairs whilst
observed by a group of intrigued children. The day was a clear one and offered good
panoramas of snowy Annapurna.
Being election time in Nepal, the strike meant
no vehicles were allowed on the road. Great for cycling, with no traffic or diesel
fumes. Only grand scenic vistas.
Pokhara is as touristy as Kathmandu and
sported hundreds of trekking shops, restaurants and guesthouses. It’s a picturesque
place on Lake Phewa, featuring good views of the Annapurna range and Mt
Machhapuchhare. One can find almost anything from cheese (Yak cheese) to
toiletries, clothing and climbing gear. All vastly different from rural Nepal,
but a luxury if one had been travelling or walking in the mountains for an
extended time.
On the 13th of April, I took the
bus to Kathmandu instead of biking the same route for the 3rd time
in 2 weeks. Ernest, not one to take a bus, decided to cycle. I found the bus no
less tiring, but at least the bus only took one day instead of three.
13-16 April - Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, I walked slap-bang into Nepali New
Year’s Eve celebrations. The streets were crowded, and one could barely move. Bars
and restaurants were filled to the brim, and music could be heard through the
night—what a festive atmosphere. However, the exciting part was finding the
Nepali Calendar 57 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar, thus 2066.
17 April – Kathmandu, Nepal – Bangkok,
Thailand - By Air
We left our room at 05h00 and pedalled
through the quiet dark streets of Kathmandu to the Airport to catch our flight
to Bangkok, Thailand. There was, however, no need for our early arrival. The
flight, scheduled to leave at 9h00, only departed at 11h15. Thus, following a two-and-a-half-hour
flight, our flight landed in Bangkok after 15h30 (local time).
Upon arrival, the sweltering heat of Thailand
was immediately evident. After an expensive taxi ride into the city, a
guesthouse in touristy Banglamphu was located. We huffed, puffed, and sweated, but
finally, the bikes were reassembled and panniers repacked.
A walk along the immensely touristy street of
Khao San Road, with its bars, restaurants and street food vendors, gave us our
first taste of Bangkok.
