016 CYCLE TOURING SYRIA (2)

16 SYRIA
548 Km – 9 Days
11 March – 20 March 2008

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 PHOTOS

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11-13 March - Syrian border - Damascus – 115 kilometres

After mountainous Jordan, the lack of hills in Syria made for delightful cycling. The day turned out pleasant and sported views of green fields and distant snow-capped mountains. Finally, the weather was in our favour, and we rolled into Damascus at around 4 o’clock where two full days were spent.

Founded in the 3^rd millennium B.C., Damascus is one of the oldest cities in the Middle East and was an important cultural and commercial centre at the crossroads between Africa and Asia. Damascus’s old town is considered among the oldest continually inhabited cities globally and, therefore, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I was in Damascus barely six months earlier and was thus super keen to show Ernest around this remarkable city. Unfortunately, he was disinterested in sightseeing and only visited the historic walled city and markets. As a result, I spent most of my time exploring the city’s remarkable and ancient sights and attractions.

Luckily, the Umayyah Mosque, known as the Great Mosque of Damascus, said to be one of the oldest and largest mosques in the world, was explored with my sister a few months prior. The fascinating part of the mosque was that it was constructed following the Muslim conquest of Damascus in 634 CE. The mosque was further built upon a Christian basilica dedicated to John the Baptist, honoured by both Christians and Muslims as a prophet. Legend has it the building contains the head of John the Baptist, which I considered pretty bizarre.

 

14 March - Damascus – Roadside restaurant - 74 kilometres

The tailwind we enjoyed departing Damascus soon became a howling crosswind, to such an extent I got blown off the bike, and landed in a ditch next to the road. After the third such incident, I shouted abuse at Ernest who seemed not to notice. Mercifully, a shelter was discovered at a nearby roadside restaurant. The owner offered us floor space above the restaurant to spend the night.

 

15-16 March – Roadside restaurant - Homs – 95 kilometres

By morning, calm conditions made for comfortable cycling to Homs, 95 kilometres away. At a roadside breakfast stop, a kind Samaritan invited us to a meal that became a feast of hummus, olives, cheese and various pastries. Afterwards, we set off with full stomachs, and I don’t know what Ernest was on, but he rode straight into a stationary minivan! And that in full daylight! Nothing was broken except his ego and the van’s taillight.

The Al Naser Hotel in Homs was easily the crummiest but the cheapest in town. The toilets were filthy, and one had to pay extra for the strange paraffin-heated shower.

The following day, a minivan took us to Krak Des Chevaliers, which I visited with Amanda only a short time before. The complex consists of an imposing Crusader castle and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The castle was initially built for the Emir of Aleppo in 1031 CE. In its hay day, it housed some 2,000 people including infantry, crossbow specialists and mercenaries. However, the actual number of brother knights was as few as 60, according to records dating to 1255 CE. Today, it remains one of the finest medieval castles anywhere. A few hours were spent marvelling at this magnificent structure.

 

17 March - Homs - Hama – 47 kilometres

From Homs to Hama was barely 45 kilometres, leaving plenty of time to explore the historic norias (wooden water wheels or “wheels of pots” in Arabic). Evidence of these ornate water wheels dates back to the 5^th century CE. They were initially constructed along the Orontes River to move water through aqueducts. Unfortunately, the old citadel was less impressive and was no more than a picnic area but had a good city view.

 

18-19 March - Hama - Aleppo – 144 kilometres

I didn’t expect to go all the way from Hama to Aleppo in one day. Still, Ernest had a bee in his bonnet and we pushed on, reaching Aleppo, the largest city in Syria, long past sunset. Fortunately, this was my third visit to Aleppo and I knew where to go.

Following a leisurely start and breakfast, we visited the world-famous souqs of Aleppo.

Aleppo had been at the crossroads of several trade routes since the second millennium BC. Thus, the old walled city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Citadel of Aleppo, situated right in the centre of town, had grand views over old Aleppo, and dates to the 10^th century BC.

Equally impressive were the souqs of AleppoThe Al-Madina Souq was situated within the ancient walled city. Its long and narrow alleys formed the largest covered market globally. The market stretched approximately 13 kilometres. Aside from trading, the souq accommodated traders and their goods in khans or caravanserais. Unfortunately, this arrangement made it a congested area where one had to push and shove your way along the narrow walkways and stalls.

 

20 March – Aleppo, Syria – Reyhanli, Turkey – 74 kilometres

By morning we resumed our ride to the Syrian-Turkish border, wondering if visas were issued upon arrival. A few months earlier, coming from Bulgaria, it wasn’t possible and I had to apply beforehand. This time, however, rumours suggested procedures had changed. Thank goodness, this was indeed the case, and without any delay, we received a 30-day Turkish stay. What a relief! So delighted were we, we parked off in the nearby border town of Reyhanli. 

015 CYCLE TOURING JORDAN (2)

Photo By Ernest Markwood

15 JORDAN (2)
624 Km – 18 Days
21 February – 10 March 2008

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21-22 February – Nuweiba, Egypt – Aqaba, Jordan - 28 km

From Nuweiba, Egypt one could cycle via Israel and Lebanon to Turkey, or take the ferry to Jordan and cycle via Syria. As it was difficult or near impossible to get into Syria with an Israeli stamp in the passport, the uncomplicated ferry to Jordan was a no-brainer. The ferry departed after five instead of three p.m., resulting in us arriving in Jordan after dark and leaving an hour’s cycling at night until reaching the city centre.

After a good night’s sleep, the next day was spent exploring our new country and Aqaba while strolling along the beach where Jordanians swam fully clothed. However, two surprises awaited: firstly, things were rather expensive as the Jordanian dinar was strong and, secondly, it became clear Jordan was another mountainous country.

Aqaba’s old town, where we bunked down, offered an exciting dose of ancient Arabia centred around a souq. These markets were fascinating and allowed a peep into the Jordanian lifestyle. Cafés were packed by men in kaffiyehs, smoking shisha pipes and sipping the local brew. I imagined a camel as a more appropriate means of transport than a bicycle. The market offered the best food in Aqaba including delicious hummus. Unused to the currency, I bought one JD’s falafel and received two full bags, enough for supper, breakfast and lunch!

 

23 February - Aqaba - Ras an-Naqb – 88 km

Ernest and I followed the King’s Highway, an ancient north-south trade route since prehistoric times, connecting Africa to Mesopotamia. This ancient route ran from Egypt via the Sinai desert to Aqaba and further north to Damascus.

As romantic as it may sound, the area was mountainous and the hills made it exhausting riding. Nevertheless, we pushed on until reaching Ras An-Naqib where we pitched the tents next to the road at more than 1,600m above sea level. I realised it wasn’t my imagination - it was an uphill trek.

 

24–26 February – Ras an-Naqb – Wadi Musa – 44 km

The next morning was an easy 44 kilometres to Wadi Musa. The Valentine Hotel, sporting pink walls, red curtains and a mirror above the bed, lured us in and became home for the next few days.

We parked off at Wadi Musa to explore the ancient city of Petra (known as the Rose City due to the colour of the sandstone cliffs). Although my second visit in a short time, Petra was no less impressive.

Petra is a remarkable place, and I failed to see how it couldn’t impress even the most seasoned traveller. Dating to 300 BC, it was the capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. However, the most impressive part of the visit was the entrance. Following a narrow canyon walk, it suddenly and quite unexpectedly opened, revealing a genuinely astonishing sight, the 45-metre-high temple with an ornate, Greek-style façade. Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Petra is considered one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites.

In its heyday, Petra was a major crossroad between Arabia (for incense), China (for silk) and India (for spices). While exploring Petra, one could easily be transported to the time of caravans and could just as easily imagine the chaos of trade and bargaining that undoubtedly took place in those years. Most ingenious was their clever water system and how rain- and floodwaters were channelled into cisterns and reservoirs. Being a desert area, none of this would’ve been possible without these channels and diversion dams that controlled and conserved the seasonal rains.

While returning from our walk to the high place of sacrifice, a sudden downpour and hailstorm made us seek shelter in a tomb. I thought taking refuge in an ancient tomb was quite a cool thing to do. Unfortunately, the rain continued all night and, with freezing weather setting in, we stayed an extra day.

 

27 February - Petra – At Tafilah – 91 km

The route out of Petra climbed steeply from Wadi Musa and continued uphill almost the entire day. Still following the barren, mountainous King’s Highway, we soon encountered the warned about stone-throwing children and I was mentally transported back to Ethiopia. The wintery weather brought snow and Ernest had to throw a few snowballs. On reaching the junction at At-Tafilah, the King’s Highway continued north and the At-Tafilah Highway turned down to the Dead Sea in the Jordan Valley.

Following discussing our options, the Dead Sea, which we believed had a milder climate, won. Already late, the tents were pitched at a viewpoint on the outskirts of At-Tafilah. The spot was a remarkable place to overnight as it was blessed with a terrific view of the surrounding barren mountains and the Dead Sea in the distance.

 

28 February - At Tafilah – Dead Sea - 112 km

In the morning, we raced downhill at breakneck speed, from 1,000 AMSL to the Dead Sea at 400m below sea level, the lowest place on earth. Before pitching the tents, we first had the obligatory swim, or instead float, in this unique lake’s saline waters.

Being under the impression that our chosen spot was well-hidden, was clearly incorrect. The many stray dogs soon discovered us. They barked continuously but were also quite aggressive, to such an extent that we feared they could rip the tents apart. However, chasing them only drew more attention to our illegal camp, rather than frightening them.

 

29 February-7 March – Read Sea -Suwayma – Amman – 174 km

The road climbed steeply out of the Dead Sea valley to Amman, located on a plateau at 1,000 metres above sea level, a slow process on a bicycle. In the process, we met Peter and Jill who recognised the South African sticker on Ernest’s bags and stopped to inquire about our trip. They promptly invited us to a braai, and we spent the following evening at their home, enjoying a great meal and plenty of red wine before being dropped off at our abode.

Two days were spent searching for a new rim but to no avail. There wasn’t a great deal one could do but order a new one. Thanks to my sister Amanda, Leon, and Jaco at Cycle Maintenance Centre in Cape Town, the parts were packed and sent to Jordan.

Ordering the spares made kicking back in a room until the parcel arrived easy. The best part of any accommodation was it usually had a bathroom. I considered this heaven. The freezing weather resulted in us biking and sleeping much in the same outfit, and you can thus understand my delight.

I should’ve used the time to do something regarding my appearance, as I was shrivelled up like an old prune. Instead, we did the tourist thing and visited Madaba and Mt Nebo, where Moses reportedly saw the promised land and then died at the age of 120. The world is clearly going backwards as the life expectancy in Jordan, at the time of our visit, was only 74. The place was a tad disappointing, and nowhere to place your feet and say, “Beam me up, Scotty”.

 

8-9 March – Amman

At last, the package arrived. Receiving a parcel is always exciting and it was eagerly opened. Not merely did it contain bike spares but my thoughtful sister included droëwors, cup-a-soup, pasta sauce, jelly babies and a buff for Ernest in SA colours. Thanks, Amanda!

Off to the bike shop, and although their technology was limited, the shop was accommodating and friendly. The following day, the bikes were as good as new.

 

10 March - Amman - Syrian border – 88 km

All smiles, we continued our journey towards Syria. The bikes ran well and the weather was good, making pedalling to the Jordanian-Syrian border effortless. We were slightly apprehensive, not knowing what to expect and whether obtaining a visa at the border was even possible. We were thus ecstatic to learn the process had changed and had become more effortless.

I did essential shopping (face cream and mask) at the duty-free shop. Then keen to use it, I found a room on the Syrian side of the border to relax until exploring Syria in the morning. That also brought to an end our rather short visit to Jordan.