16 SYRIA
548 Km – 9 Days
11
March – 20 March 2008
MAP
PHOTOS
E-BOOK
11-13 March - Syrian border - Damascus – 115 kilometres
After
mountainous Jordan, the lack of hills in Syria made for delightful cycling. The
day turned out pleasant and sported views of green fields and distant
snow-capped mountains. Finally, the weather was in our favour, and we rolled
into Damascus at around 4 o’clock where two full days were spent.
Founded
in the 3rd millennium B.C., Damascus is one of the oldest cities in
the Middle East and was an important cultural and commercial centre at the
crossroads between Africa and Asia. Damascus’s old town is considered among the
oldest continually inhabited cities globally and, therefore, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. I was in Damascus barely six months earlier and was thus super
keen to show Ernest around this remarkable city. Unfortunately, he was disinterested
in sightseeing and only visited the historic walled city and markets. As a
result, I spent most of my time exploring the city’s remarkable and ancient
sights and attractions.
Luckily,
the Umayyah Mosque, known as the Great Mosque of Damascus, said to be one of
the oldest and largest mosques in the world, was explored with my sister a few
months prior. The fascinating part of the mosque was that it was constructed following
the Muslim conquest of Damascus in 634 CE. The mosque was further built upon a
Christian basilica dedicated to John the Baptist, honoured by both Christians
and Muslims as a prophet. Legend has it the building contains the head of John
the Baptist, which I considered pretty bizarre.
14
March - Damascus – Roadside restaurant - 74 kilometres
The
tailwind we enjoyed departing Damascus soon became a howling crosswind, to such
an extent I got blown off the bike, and landed in a ditch next to the road.
After the third such incident, I shouted abuse at Ernest who seemed not to
notice. Mercifully, a shelter was discovered at a nearby roadside restaurant. The
owner offered us floor space above the restaurant to spend the night.
15-16
March – Roadside restaurant - Homs – 95 kilometres
By
morning, calm conditions made for comfortable cycling to Homs, 95 kilometres
away. At a roadside breakfast stop, a kind Samaritan invited us to a meal that
became a feast of hummus, olives, cheese and various pastries. Afterwards, we
set off with full stomachs, and I don’t know what Ernest was on, but he rode straight
into a stationary minivan! And that in full daylight! Nothing was broken except
his ego and the van’s taillight.
The
Al Naser Hotel in Homs was easily the crummiest but the cheapest in town. The toilets
were filthy, and one had to pay extra for the strange paraffin-heated shower.
The
following day, a minivan took us to Krak Des Chevaliers, which I visited with
Amanda only a short time before. The complex consists of an imposing Crusader castle
and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The castle was initially built for the Emir of
Aleppo in 1031 CE. In its hay day, it housed some 2,000 people including
infantry, crossbow specialists and mercenaries. However, the actual number of
brother knights was as few as 60, according to records dating to 1255 CE. Today,
it remains one of the finest medieval castles anywhere. A few hours were spent
marvelling at this magnificent structure.
17
March - Homs - Hama – 47 kilometres
From
Homs to Hama was barely 45 kilometres, leaving plenty of time to explore the
historic norias (wooden water wheels or “wheels of pots” in Arabic). Evidence
of these ornate water wheels dates back to the 5th century CE. They
were initially constructed along the Orontes River to move water through aqueducts.
Unfortunately, the old citadel was less impressive and was no more than a
picnic area but had a good city view.
18-19
March - Hama - Aleppo – 144 kilometres
I
didn’t expect to go all the way from Hama to Aleppo in one day. Still, Ernest
had a bee in his bonnet and we pushed on, reaching Aleppo, the largest city in
Syria, long past sunset. Fortunately, this was my third visit to Aleppo and I knew
where to go.
Following
a leisurely start and breakfast, we visited the world-famous souqs of Aleppo.
Aleppo
had been at the crossroads of several trade routes since the second millennium
BC. Thus, the old walled city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Citadel of Aleppo, situated right in the centre of town, had grand views
over old Aleppo, and dates to the 10th century BC.
Equally
impressive were the souqs of AleppoThe Al-Madina Souq was situated within the
ancient walled city. Its long and narrow alleys formed the largest covered
market globally. The market stretched approximately 13 kilometres. Aside from
trading, the souq accommodated traders and their goods in khans or
caravanserais. Unfortunately, this arrangement made it a congested area where
one had to push and shove your way along the narrow walkways and stalls.
20
March – Aleppo, Syria – Reyhanli, Turkey – 74 kilometres
By
morning we resumed our ride to the Syrian-Turkish border, wondering if visas
were issued upon arrival. A few months earlier, coming from Bulgaria, it wasn’t
possible and I had to apply beforehand. This time, however, rumours suggested procedures
had changed. Thank goodness, this was indeed the case, and without any delay, we
received a 30-day Turkish stay. What a relief! So delighted were we, we parked
off in the nearby border town of Reyhanli.
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