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69 THAILAND (3)
Bangkok – Mae Sot - Myanmar Border
572 Kilometres – 15 Days
16 March – 29 March 2015
16 -
20 March - Colombo, Sri Lanka – Bangkok, Thailand
I
completed my cycle around the island of Sri Lanka upon reaching Colombo. The following
day, I booked a flight to Bangkok, Thailand, mainly to secure a visa for
Myanmar. Despite my flight departing at 7:20 a.m., my taxi could only pick me
up at 3:00 a.m. for some strange reason. Nonetheless, I arrived early at the
airport, which gave me ample time to wrap my bike box.
A few hours after the flight touched down in Bangkok, a taxi soon dropped me
off in the popular tourist area of Banglamphu, also known as ‘Backpackerville’.
I was pleased to see that the area around Khao San Road was just as lively as I
remembered it from 6 years ago, packed with vendors selling everything from
clothing to fake IDs and even deep-fried scorpions on a stick. I settled into
a room at a guesthouse along Phra Athit Road and made it home for the next few
days.
By
morning, I submitted my passport to the Myanmar Embassy to apply for a visa.
The process took a few days, so I took it easy and explored the city. I relied
on the Skytrain to get to and from the city centre, where I hoped to find a new
phone charger. I always enjoyed using public transport in foreign cities as it
made me feel like I was learning something while getting around. The following
day was spent visiting a few temples as I thought the temples of Thailand were exquisite.
They are not merely old but immensely colourful and ornate.
One
can’t be in Bangkok and not pop into Wat Pho (The Temple of the Reclining
Buddha). Famed for its giant reclining Buddha measuring 46 metres in length and
15 metres in height, it’s impressive by anyone’s standards. Unfortunately, the
weather was sweltering, and the place was swarming with tourists making me exit
the overcrowded hall in a hurry.
The
way back led past numerous mobile carts selling various goods, including
second-hand false teeth, and I thought that when someone sells second-hand
false teeth, no one can accuse them of not trying.
A
few days later, I collected the Myanmar visa and was ready to cycle out of
Bangkok. The Mae Sot-Myawaddy border was one of the few open borders between
Thailand and Myanmar and was roughly a week’s cycle away. The route was
sprinkled with interesting sights, so I was in no hurry.
I used
my time to get a leg wax and pedicure and, by evening, sauntered along the
river to take a few pictures. Unfortunately, I didn’t come across much to
capture, except the old fort along Phra Athit Road. So, instead, I had a beer
and a bite to eat in the alleyways.
21-22
March - Bangkok – Ayutthaya - 90 km
Cycling out of Bangkok was effortless but slow due to the roadworks. Eventually, I reached a rural path next to a canal that led me through a typical Thai countryside with ornate temples and bright green rice paddies. The weather was scorching, and I was relieved to arrive at Ayutthaya, which offered affordable accommodation.
Despite
arriving late, I made my way to the famous ruins of Ayutthaya, now recognised
as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ayutthaya was established in 1350 and served
as the country's capital until it was destroyed by the Burmese Army in 1767. At
its height, Ayutthaya was one of the largest and wealthiest cities in the East.
This era also marked the peak of Thai regional dominance.
Today,
the ruins cover a vast area, and I spent an extra day exploring some of the
outlying ruins in Ayutthaya. The following morning, I took my bicycle and explored
more old ruins and temples.
23
March - Ayutthaya – Lopburi - 65 km
Lopburi,
a small city with impressive ruins, was a short and pleasurable bike ride away.
NooM Guesthouse, which offers budget rooms, is ideally located and caters to
backpackers. Since Lopburi is small, nearly all attractions are within easy
walking distance.
Later,
I took a short stroll to the Prang Sam Yot temple, home to a troop of resident
monkeys. According to Hindu-Buddhist beliefs, monkeys have divine connections
and shouldn't be harmed. Despite being a menace, they are fed instead of chased
away. Tourists love the experience, but shopkeepers constantly battle as the
monkeys grab anything left unattended.
24
March - Lopburi – Nakhon Sawan - 131 km
The
day was overcast, which made for pleasant biking, and the threatening clouds
didn't bring any rain. With the weather in my favour, I continued towards
Nakhon Sawan, where I found the P.A. Place Hotel. The hotel had convenient,
motel-style rooms on the ground floor and was located near restaurants, making
it an easy choice.
Although
Nakhon Sawan didn't have many attractions, it was situated at the confluence of
the Ping and Nan Rivers, which merge to form the mighty Chao Phraya River.
25-26
March - Nakhon Sawan – Kamphaeng Phet (Kamphaengphet) - 126 km
The
weather was partly cloudy, so I continued biking towards Kamphaeng Phet, famous
for its impressive ruins and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. On my way, I
met Mel and Lee, who were travelling by car and stopped to chat. Mel is from
Australia, and Lee from Thailand. They have made Chang Mai their home after
three years of cycle touring.
I
couldn't resist buying some rice cooked in bamboo from a stall I came across,
and it turned out to be the best rice I've ever tasted. Once I arrived in
Kamphaeng Phet, I opted for the Three J Guesthouse, which had some unique and
interesting rooms.
The
following day, I spent my time exploring the historical areas and buildings of
Kamphaeng Phet, which date back to the 14th century. Running around the old
ruins like a famous explorer was fun but, unfortunately, I lost my phone in the
process.
27
March - Kamphaeng Phet – Tak - 70 km
The
day marked my eighth year of cycle touring. During this time, I have witnessed
countless magnificent sights, met incredible people, and tried some unusual
food. I have crossed mountains and deserts, and on many days, questioned my
sanity.
The
journey from Phet to Tak was, however, enjoyable as the route followed the Ping
River. Although it was a relatively short day, a significant mountain range loomed
ahead on the way to Mae Sot and the Myanmar border. Therefore, Tak was an
excellent place to overnight before embarking on the final 90 kilometres to
Myanmar.
28-29
March - Tak – Mae Sot - 90 km
I
left Tak without having breakfast, assuming I would find a place to eat during
the day. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a suitable location, and the day became
a slow and challenging ride over the mountains. As I approached the top of the
first big climb, I was disheartened to see yet another incline. Luckily, the
weather changed, and the overcast conditions made biking easier. Still, I
wheezed my way up the steep inclines.
Finally,
I spotted a temple atop a hill, which usually marked the high point. Cars were
honking as they passed, and I assumed it was a good luck thing. Exhausted, I
was relieved to see the way down. The descent was equally steep, and I sped
down and into the border town of Mae Sot, reaching speeds of almost 60 km/h.
Despite
being tired and hungry, I managed to find a budget room at the First Hotel,
which seemed to be the oldest hotel in Mae Sot. The rooms were huge and
decorated with beautiful Burmese teak furniture. Even the corridors and
staircase were adorned with wooden carvings. The next day, I spent the best
part of the day doing laundry and eating more than two days' worth of food.
Mae
Sot is a fascinating border town with a diverse population. I had lunch at
Khrua Canadian, where Dave and his wife had been running the restaurant for the
past 17 years. Dave was not only knowledgeable about food but also possessed a
wealth of information.
31
March - Mae Sot, Thailand - Myawaddy, Myanmar - 10 km
Mae
Sot, Thailand, was just a five-kilometre bike ride from the Friendship Bridge,
which served as the border control point between Thailand and Myanmar. Since I
already had a visa, I only needed a stamp in my passport.
It
always amazed me how crossing a line on a map could lead to such a vastly
different environment. The people, clothing, food, currency, and language were
all different from what I was used to in Thailand. After completing customs and
immigration procedures, the next task was to withdraw Myanmar currency from an
ATM. The exchange rate was 1,000 kyats to 1 USD, and I had to buy a new wallet
to store all the notes.
Once
again, Myanmar surprised me with its unique culture. Men still wore the
traditional longyi, many had red-stained teeth from chewing paan, and almost
everyone used face paint.
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