CYCLE TOURING MALAYSIA (6) - 2019

MALAYSIA (6)
625 Kilometres – 11 Day
28 November – 9 December 2019

PHOTOS

MAP

 

 

 

28 November – Padang Basar, Thailand – Alor Setar, Malaysia – 87 km

Malaysia must have had one of the easiest border crossings in the entire world. After being stamped out of Thailand, a short ride took me to the Malaysian immigration where one was stamped in. Still, it was after 9.30 before heading south.

With a population density of 97 people per square kilometre, Malaysia wasn’t as densely populated as Thailand, with a density of 134.2 people per square kilometre and Malaysia, therefore, was blessed with more open spaces. Malaysia's far northern part was a particularly scenic area with limestone outcrops and bright green rice fields. A strong tailwind made easy cycling.

Malaysia is a multicultural and multiconfessional country, whose official religion is Islam. About 60% of the population practices Islam, 20% Buddhism, 10% Christianity, 6.5% Hinduism and 3.5% traditional Chinese religions. Therefore, the food was equally multicultural and included Chinese, Indian and Malay - a food paradise, if you ask me. The most common was Mee Goreng, consisting of yellow noodles, with added chicken, beef or soy sauce, veggies and egg. The only thing still required was to learn the word “vegetarian”. Then there was the very popular Nasi Lemak, Malaysia’s unofficial national dish. The basis of Nasi Lemak is rice cooked in coconut milk. It wasn’t always the same, but mostly served with a boiled egg, peanuts, vegetables, your choice of meat or fish, and sambal. My favourite was still roti canai, an Indian flatbread served with a scoop of chickpea curry, or curry laksa, a spicy noodle soup.

Oil-rich Malaysia’s currency (Malaysian ringgit) was somewhat stronger than the Thai baht (app. $1 = 4 Malaysian ringgit compared to $1 = 30 Thai baht) and one had to fork out a bit more for accommodation.

My first bowl of Mee Goreng was at a roadside stall after which it was on to Alor Setar. Alor Setar had plenty of budget accommodation, and I was literally “home and dry” before 15h00. A walk revealed I was in the Chinese part of town as there were plenty of Chinese restaurants, something I didn’t complain about. The food was delicious and washed down with a Tiger beer.

 

29 November - Alor Setar – Georgetown, Penang – 95 km

I wasn’t in the mood for traffic and headed straight for the backroads. Soon, my route twisted and turned through rice fields and small hamlets where ever-friendly Malaysians greeted in a way that appeared they were genuinely surprised and happy to see one.

On reaching the large Merbok River, I was pleased to find a ferry operating across to Pantai Merdeka, saving me a long ride back to the main road. In Butterworth, the road led straight to the ferry terminal and onto Penang Island situated in the Strait of Malacca. It’s, in fact, this strategic location that made Penang what it’s today.

Many moons ago, the Strait was an important trade route between Europe, the Middle East, India and China. With the Strait of Malacca located exactly on the crossing of the two monsoon seasons, ships couldn’t set sail until the winds were favourable. While waiting for the winds to change, sailors left behind their unique cultures and today the streets are still lined with delicacies from China, India and the Middle East. No time was wasted in ordering, not only samosas but also falafel, again washed down with a tall Tiger beer.

 

30 November 2019 - Georgetown

I woke to a drizzly morning and paid for another night.

Although Georgetown isn’t what it used to be hundreds of years ago, it’s still a magical place to explore. Not only are the streets lined with food stalls, but the narrow lanes jam-packed with interesting architecture. It’s said a Chinese merchant first charted the island way back in the 15th century, but I understood Indian merchants reached this part of the world as early as the 1st century to collect herbs, spices and gold. It wasn’t until 1595 the Dutch arrived and not long after that the English. Today, it’s all still visible in Fort Cornwallis's architecture and the Sri Mariamman temple to the Kapitan Keling Mosque.

One of the most interesting places, at least to me, was the clan jetties, dating back to 1882. In those years, the jetties were dominated by clans and homes were constructed along the wooden walkways. Nothing much has changed and to this day clans reside here.

 

2 December – Georgetown – Taiping – 110 km

After two full days in Georgetown, it was time to pack up and cycle to the ferry port. Although the map indicated a cycle route, I had other ideas and followed my nose. My nose was clearly not good, as in trying to locate smaller roads I got completely bogged down in the mud and had to return to the highway. Once on the highway, there was no getting off, and it took at least 40 kilometres before finding an exit. By then, I wasn’t in the mood for exploring and headed to Taiping on the best possible route available.

Clouds gathered, and it became clear I wasn’t going to make it to Taiping without getting soaked. Ten kilometres before Taiping, the heavens did indeed open up, and it poured as it could only do in the tropics. It wasn’t long before all was over, and a few kilometres further, the road was bone dry.

The old stalwart, Peking Hotel, was renovated and not as inexpensive as it used to be. Fortunately, I located Sojourn Beds & Café where a bed was only 35MR, and I the only one in the guesthouse. Conveniently located across the road from the night market made it even more perfect.

 

3 December – Taiping - Lamut – 100 km

I discovered Malaysia was an hour behind Thailand! Therefore, I left after 9 a.m. instead of what I thought was a very early start. I couldn’t make up my mind which way to go, and instead of heading for either Ipoh or Lamut, I headed straight south and followed country roads.

The route was surprisingly scenic and along a perfect road past mostly oil-palm plantations. Indonesia and Malaysia are the largest producers of palm oil, and it’s, therefore, no surprise to cycle past large farms. Interestingly enough, it’s a tropical oil and only grows within 10 degrees north and south of the equator.

Eventually, I had to make a call and headed to Lamut, or rather Sitiawan, as it had heaps of accommodation and food.

 

4 December – Sitiawan – Kuala Selangor – 145 km

I don’t know what got into me, but I was on the road early and hardly ever stopped. I didn’t even have breakfast or any other food during the day and never felt hungry. I was like a woman possessed!

Following the main road became quite impossible - not only was it busy, but it seemed the entire road was being widened. I stayed on the country lanes and thoroughly enjoyed myself. The path zigzagged through oil-palm plantations, sometimes on paved roads and sometimes on dirt roads. A ferry ride across the Bernam River made a fun way to get to the opposite side.

The weather was good, and as it didn’t look like rain, I made good use of the favourable conditions and only called it a day on reaching Kuala Selangor. The Melawati Hotel was home that night, and the room was easily the smallest I’ve ever stayed in. The room was so small the single bed only just fitted, not even leaving enough space for a bedside table!

 

5 November Kuala Selangor – Puchong – 88 km

My late start was partly due to my windowless room and partly to the long distance and late night the previous day. It wasn’t the most scenic of cycles as I was heading into Kuala Lumper, Malaysia’s capital (commonly known as KL), and a city with an urban conglomerate of 7,700,000! It’s an ever-growing area and roadworks part of life but something which didn’t make good cycle touring. However, I made it to my hotel in good time and later met up with my friend Peter and his wife, Alice. We jabbered on forever as I haven’t seen them for a while.

The next two days were spent packing my bicycle and panniers as from KL I planned on flying to my beloved India. Peter kindly got me a bicycle box beforehand and, with his help, the bicycle was soon in the box. My laundry was done, and a few beers were consumed (which was already chilled even before my arrival). It’s the kind of stuff one can never thank someone enough for.

Booking a budget flight meant my flight was at an ungodly hour, but Peter still drove me to the airport. Afterwards, I swore I’ll never book a budget airline again, no matter how tempting the price might be. The luggage fee was so astronomical I could’ve flown with a far more comfortable airline for the same price. 

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (19.2)- 2019

THAILAND (19.2)

1261 Kilometres - 18 Days
10 November – 27 November 2019

PHOTOS

MAP

 

10 November - Jomtien – Chonburi – 65 km

After months and months of frustration in getting my bank to send me my cards, the cards eventually arrived. Still, it remained impossible to transfer funds from South Africa to a Thailand bank account. Eventually, I flew to South Africa, opened an FNB account and transferred the money, hallelujah! Back in Thailand, it took more than a month to sort out all that needed sorting out, and to rent out the two units purchased, phew!

You can, thus, understand my excitement, locking the condo and getting on the bike to resume my journey. The first 20 kilometres took weaving through the Pattaya traffic until the route spat me out in the countryside. A huge weight lifted off my shoulders, and a big grin crossed my face as I, at last, made my way past familiar temples and cassava plantations.

Chonburi signalled the end of the day's ride and where the beachfront was swarming with holidaymakers as Thailand was preparing to celebrate Loy Krathong, the Festival of Light. Accommodation was at a discount as owners were frantically trying to fill their rooms and a ground-floor room, one road back from the beach, came at only 300 Thai baht. The room was odd and tiled in white tiles from floor to ceiling, and the toilet flushed with a bucket. I couldn’t care as I was as happy as the proverbial pig being, once again, on the road to nowhere.

It took time to sort out the panniers as things were hurriedly thrown in at random, and there was a considerable amount of sorting out to do, something which took the best part of the evening.

 

11 November - Chonburi - Pha Pradaeng – 110 km

What a long and varied day it turned out. Clearing the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand was never a pleasant cycling experience. Sprawling Bangkok stretches down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it eventually drains into the Gulf of Thailand. That said, for the first 20 kilometres, the route led along the shallow waters of the Northern Gulf with its abundance of birdlife and fishing opportunities. A tranquil restaurant on stilts lured me in for a refreshing cup of iced coffee, where I sat watching and dreaming, realising how lucky I was to be there until it dawned upon me there was still a way to go.

The next 10 kilometres, was in hectic traffic along a busy highway, leading into Bangkok. Mercifully, it came with a service road running alongside; still it became a lead-laden, fume-inhaling ride. Once across the Bang Pakong River (waiting to be explored) a smaller road veered off, which became a far more pleasant ride through rural Thailand, or at least as rural as that part of Thailand can be.

Eventually, the road took me back to the dreaded Sukhumvit Road. Surprisingly, a country lane ran along the opposite side of a canal, which made a peaceful ride past villagers relaxing in the shade of large trees and past ducks waddling across the path. Add to that a ferry ride across the mighty Chao Phraya River saving a long and congested trip via the main road it turned out not such a bad day after all.

The day's ride ended when the Rimnam Hotel appeared, and what a lucky find. The hotel was situated along the Bang Khru canal where Loi Krathong festivities were in full swing. People were eating, drinking and families bought decorated offerings in the form of floating flowers, incense and candles, which were lit and allowed to float downstream. I was impressed to see most were biodegradable.

 

12 November - Pha Pradaeng – Samut Songkhram – 79km

Leaving the night's bare-boned digs was without coffee, as the room only had one plug socket, and the cup water-heater couldn’t make a connection. It didn’t surprise me as it was a budget room and very few things were in working order. A few kilometres further, and after clearing most of the early morning traffic, breakfast was from a roadside stall. This was always interesting as one never knew what was inside those banana-leaf parcels.

Albeit trying my utmost to find smaller roads, I remained very much in the thick of things. Only towards the end of the day, the path cleared the worst of the horrendous Bangkok traffic. The area between Samut Songkhram and Bangkok mainly consisted of low-lying, swampy land. Nearly all houses were on stilts, and general activities centred around fish, being catching it, drying it or manufacturing nets or boats. I, therefore, coasted along past mangroves, across canals (with steep bridges), and tropical-looking rivers where one could hear longtail boats but were unable to see them for the dense vegetation.

The short distance to Samut Songkhram made an early arrival, allowing plenty of time to rinse cycling gear and charging devices. At sunset, the famous food stands made their appearance, and the main street became jam-packed with stalls frying, grilling and steaming their respective delicacies. There wasn’t a great deal suitable to vegetarians, but I managed to locate a few nibbles and with my bounty bagged, returned to my abode.

 

13 November - Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 113 km

The next day I zigzagged through the countryside along smaller roads, and from time to time discovered the route ended abruptly. It nevertheless remained lovely to amble aimlessly, mostly past salt farms where the salt had only just started to form and would still be a few months before it could be harvested.

I’d biked this route on many occasions and, stayed over in Cha-Am where I didn’t frequently overnight. Cha-Am wasn’t significantly different from Pattaya and seemed largely to cater to older European men on the prowl for young women. This lifestyle surely seemed to have given the men a new lease on life as the parties continued until the wee hours of the morning. Good for them, and I hope they treated the girls with respect.

 

14-15 February – Cha-Am – Hua Hin – 31 km

From Cha-Am to Hua Hin was a short ride, a blessing as I felt tired. Once in Hua Hin, I headed straight to Bird Guesthouse, my old favourite on stilts over the water. It took no time at all to plop myself down, glass of wine in hand, gazing out over the ocean.

The following day was spent doing laundry and shopping for items I didn’t pack, all of which I found at the well-stocked supermarket. The Huahin bike shop provided a new back tyre, and being an unfamiliar name (CST Pedium), I wondered how it would fair.

By evening, I met up with Gavin, who lived in Hua Hin at the time and, as can be expected, far too many beers were consumed.

 

16-17 November - Hua Hin – Prachuap Khirrikhan – 118 km

It came as no surprise I didn’t feel too bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and ummed and aahed whether to stay another day. Eventually, I dragged my alcohol-soaked body out of the guesthouse and got on the bicycle in the direction of Prachuap. There was no display of speed as I forced my unwilling legs to pedal on, stopping ever so often to fill up with water as I’d the mother of all thirsts.

Eventually, I pedalled into Prachuap where I bunked down at the old faithful, Maggie’s Homestay, where a bed was only 220 THB.

As Maggie’s was inexpensive and centrally located with water purifying and washing machines, staying one more day was a no-brainer. It allowed doing laundry and buying a pair of cycling gloves which I miraculously lost. How do you lose your cycling gloves?

 

18 November – Pratchuap – Bangsapan Beach – 110 km

Not much happened along the way, although it was comfortable riding, flush next to the coast. Once in Bangsapan, it took cycling around to locate an inexpensive room. In the end, I settled for a 400 THB bungalow - a lovely place with aircon where I’ll stay again when in the area.

 

19 November - Bangsapan Beach – Chumphon – 112 km

Following coffee, the first stop was at a nearby cave. The first one was a bit of a walk up the mountain, and the overgrown path indicated not many ventured up there. The cave had plenty of natural light, and one could wander about without a soul in sight except the many hungry mosquitos who made sure I didn’t linger. The second one looked lovely, but was pitch dark and not possible to enter without light.

The rest of the day was spent searching to find more caves or other interesting things. Still, there wasn’t much, and I proceeded to Chumphon where a conveniently situated hotel allowed wheeling the bike right inside.

 

20 November – Chumphon – Pak Nam Langsuan – 86 km

Following the previous night’s decision to catch the night ferry to Koh Tao I was slow in rising, especially as it started drizzling and the ferry wasn’t until 7 p.m. There wasn’t a great deal to do in Chumphon and, following a few hours of waiting, I loaded up and pedalled out of Chumphon as I lacked the tolerance to wait the entire day for a ferry.

The weather cleared, and it became a pleasant cloud-covered ride through the countryside. At around 60 kilometres, a conveniently located restaurant called for a lunch of fried rice, following which the path proceeded along the coast. No sooner had I left, and a massive storm rolled in from the Gulf of Thailand, complete with horizontal rain and wind. I pushed onwards regardless, and at times feared the wind could blow the bicycle from under me. There wasn’t much one could do but don a plastic raincoat, pull the cap down as low as it would go and push on. The dirt road became a muddy mess, and the heavy rain made poor visibility. At around 85 kilometres, I was relieved to spot a bungalow tucked behind banana plants. At first, there was no one in sight. Still, I kept calling, “Sawadee! Sawadee!” Eventually, a young lady appeared, obviously taken by surprise at the presence of a drenched farang on a bike.

She pointed me to a wooden bungalow situated right on the water’s edge, and I mean right on the water, to such an extent I feared the tide could take both me and bungalow into the ocean. The room was no larger than the bed and the bathroom – clearly, an afterthought as it was a few steps lower than the room and consisted of a squat toilet and what I call a “mundy” (a concrete reservoir from which one scooped water to use as a shower). I thought it the most magical place I’ve ever stayed. Right on the beach and all at 250 Thai baht! I hoped the tide wouldn’t come in any higher as I could see the sand through the floorboards! Being low tide at the time, I guessed anything could happen.

I was equally happy I’d lunch as there were no food stalls and I had to make do with cup-noodles. The landowner, a fisherman, and his family invited me to share their dinner, but I declined as their crab and fish looked barely enough to feed them.

 

21 November - Pak Nam Langsuan - Surat Thani – 124 km

I was relieved to wake in the morning and still find the bungalow standing and the sea considerably calmer than the previous day. The owner brought coffee, and I drank it while sitting on my little veranda while he inspected the sea conditions. With only a small boat, I didn’t think there was any chance of him going out in such a rough sea.

The route to Surat Thani was a particularly scenic stretch as it zigzagged through the countryside, mainly sticking close to the coast and past quintessential Thailand scenery of limestone pinnacles and picture-postcard white sandy beaches. The day was predominantly cloudy with a drizzle every so often. Five kilometres from Surat, the weather came in as I made my way into the city in the pouring rain. It’s always a tad stressful biking into a town (even a small one) in afternoon traffic and bucketing rain, all while trying to read a map.

Surat Thani sported the My Place Hotel, a bargain at 230 Thai Baht and where I headed straight to the shower. Supper was from the night market, conveniently located around the corner.

The next day was also spent in Surat as the hotel was cheap, and I was in dire need of doing laundry. There wasn’t much to do in Surat, as the town was primarily a transport hub and jumping-off point to the nearby islands. I liked places like that as they were typical Thai towns where people went about their usual tasks without catering to tourists. Streets were lined with temples and shops selling temple paraphernalia. Markets sold fish and vegetables, and the alleys were lined with rice stores where it appeared a great deal of their time was spent chasing greedy pigeons trying to eat away at their profit.

 

23 November – Surat Thani – Tha Khuen – 108 km

The pleasant weather made easy cycling and the main road out of Surat a good one through scenic countryside. I stayed on that route, planning to exit later but somehow never did as it was quiet with a good shoulder. The path was littered with small villages, roadside stalls and the ever-present Buddhist temples. I finished the days ride at a convenient “24-hour” which provided a bed and this time a “normal” bathroom!

 

24 November – Tha Khuen – Hua Sai – 115 km

I left my luxury accommodation and headed south along my route to nowhere, and what a delightful day it turned out. I’ve never cycled this particular route, and the area was thoroughly enjoyable. It wasn’t an area frequented by farangs as I was stared at to no end and there were a few giggly hellos.

My route followed the coast and, as can be expected in Thailand, it became another day of blue skies, bright green rice paddies, ornate temples and colourful fishing boats. It turned out so pleasant, I hardly realised I was pedalling, and the day flew by without me noticing.

Seeing I haven’t spoken to anyone in days, I stopped and chatted with a couple making cigarette paper from palm leaves. That was my socialising done for the next week. Soon afterwards, the way ended abruptly. Fortunately, there were ferries carting people across the river. (I don’t know what cars did as the boat was rather small.) The ferry ticket was 1 Thai baht, and I wondered if collecting 1 THB was worth the paper it’s printed on, let alone paying the ferry captain and the ticket seller. In any event, the village on the opposite bank was fascinating, and you can imagine the interest my presents created as I cycled off the ferry and weaved my way through the warren of covered stalls lining the narrow alleyways of the market area.

The path later reached the coast at an area that appeared a windy one as it was the location of a wind farm. I thought I must be getting near the end of the Gulf of Thailand and closer to the South China Sea's open waters. Once again, I was impressed by these wind turbines' size (if that’s what they’re called).

November was theoretically winter in Thailand and, albeit still in the mid-30s, the sun sets far earlier. Around four or five in the afternoon, I started looking out for accommodation and discovered an abode right on the ocean at 300 Thai baht. Later, I sat watching the sea a while before biking into the village on the hunt to find supper. A good day, all in all.

 

25 November – Hua Sai – Songkhla – 110 km

The early morning drizzle made me have a second cup of coffee. Once on the road, it rained on and off for the best part of the day and the camera barely came out. Only two mentionable things happened: one was I lost my lens hood in the river. The lens hood has never come off before, and I wondered why it had to happen while on a bridge. (OK, I admit there was a bit more to the story.) The second was before Songkhlan where I found a car ferry across the mouth of the Songkhla Lake, saving riding via Ko Yo. I stand to be corrected, but think the mouth was opened artificially.

The day was one of effortless biking, and I slinked into Songkhla shortly past 3 p.m., covered in drizzle fuelled road muck and more than happy to find Bo Yang Guesthouse. At 450 THB, the room was slightly more than what I have paid before, but it was worth the extra 100 THB as the room was massive with crisp white linen, aircon and a bathroom that even had a bath! (I kid you not!)

 

27 November – Songkhla

I could see heavy rain through my bedroom window and believe I wore a smile as I rolled over and continued sleeping. It was, thus, late before finally emerging to place my laundry in the street-side washing machines and went exploring.

It didn’t take long to find Old Songkhla, a place that hid many exciting stories. I learned archaeologists discovered between the 10th and 14th centuries Songkhla was a substantial city and an important harbour town which traded with places as far afield as Quanzhou in China. Many decades later, in the 18th century, Chinese citizens settled in this area, resulting in Songkhla having a lovely “Old town” peppered with old, wooden Chinese shophouses. The area consists of narrow lanes, typical wooden shophouses and impressive temples. Part of the village's ancient wall still exists, and the Songkhla Lake remains a busy fishing harbour.

A pleasant walk led up Songkhla Hill which provided views over the city. Once back along the coast, I strolled along the beach and through the sculpture park and, as was often the case with these parks, it was sprinkled with rather odd statues.

Songkhla isn’t without a legend and, as I love legends, I’ll tell you about it. The story goes that a merchant from China often sailed his junk to Songkhla and back. While shopping for goods to take back, he bought a cat and dog. As time went on, the cat and dog got bored on the ship and decided to steal their master’s magic crystal which prevented drowning. For this job, they asked a mouse to help which stole the crystal, and the three swam ashore. As things go, the mouse wanted to escape with his crystal. The cat wanted crystal and, in the process, the crystal was lost and all drowned. The mouse and cat became the islands in Songkhla Lake while the dog died onshore and became Songkhla hill, known as Hin Khao Tang Kuan.

 

27 November - Songkhla – Padang Basar – 80 km

The weather bureau put out an alert for heavy north-easterly monsoon rain and flash floods across Southern Thailand. Instead of heading south to the Malaysian border, I used the tailwind and swung west across the Malay Peninsula. Traditionally, Malaysia’s east coast’s rainy season runs from November to February and has a more substantial rainfall than the west coast. Even though the wet weather seemed across the entire region, I thought it best to head to the west coast.

I flew along with a tailwind and stayed on the main road, which never made exciting cycling. Still, I wanted to get to the west coast and the border as quickly as possible. Most of the rain was expected over the next three days, and if all else failed, one could park off on the island of Langkawi while waiting out the weather.

It was evident I was nearing the Malaysian border as mosques became more frequent and more ladies wore some form of head covering.

Upon arriving at the border town of Padang Basar, threatening clouds made me call it a day. Typical of a border town, it turned out a real dump! Afterwards, I was sorry as the rain was light and I could’ve made a good distance. As the bungalow was already paid, I took a walk to Pedang’s food stalls and then hunkered down in my pink windowless room.

A VISIT TO THAILAND - Micah & Rouen

Thailand (19.1)

Micah & Rouen
15 March - 5 April 2019

Photos

13-14 March – Jomtien, Pattaya

I’d precisely one day to do laundry and repack bags before travelling to Bangkok to meet Rouen (brother-in-law) and Micah (Niece) on a three-week holiday in Thailand. The easiest way of getting to Bangkok was to catch an airport bus and, from there, a bus direct to Khao San Road, leaving a short stroll to the Riverline Guesthouse.

 

15 March - Bangkok

Rouen and Micah arrived around 3.30 pm, and we wasted no time exploring the nearby area. They must have been exhausted following their long flight but never indicated they wanted to stay put. As Rouen’s bag didn’t arrive on the same flight, we hoped it would reappear the following day. Still, we searched for clothing, just in case the bag didn’t materialise. Finally, enough time remained to do my favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The trip involved catching the late ferry to its final destination and returning on the last boat. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather was good, and the ride offered a spectacular sunset. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a constant traffic flow, and the river breeze is a welcome relief from the Bangkok heat. Our ferry passed barges carrying huge loads moving slowly upstream as people commuting to and from work filled the boat.

Returning, we hurried to the famous Gecko Bar for beer and food. That night, Rouen and I sat on the terrace of the Riverline Guesthouse, reminiscing about old times. Finally, after a few beers, we concluded the world was in the right mess and stumbled off to bed.

 

16 March - Bangkok

Following a delicious plate of noodle soup, we roamed the streets of old Bangkok. Our meander took us past the old Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two remaining forts out of 14 built more than two centuries ago. Following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767, Bangkok was established as the new capital. Initially, Bangkok was a walled city with canals dug to act as a moat. However, the university campus has an excellent location, right on the busy River Chao Phraya, and a walkabout revealed ruins of the old city wall.

The amulet market sported a beautiful and bizarre collection of amulets, albeit somewhat creepy. The market sells small talismans and is primarily frequented by collectors, monks and taxi drivers. The clientele mainly appeared men looking through magnifying glasses at tiny amulets, primarily used for “good luck” or fertility. Several items appeared more ominous looking than innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few seemed downright voodoo-ish!

Before popping into one of Bangkok’s most visited spots, Wat Pho temple, home to a massive reclining Buddha, it was necessary to remove shoes. The statue measures 46 metres long and 15 metres tall and is covered in gold leaf, an impressive sight by anyone’s standards. The reclining Buddha represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter parinirvana. On leaving the vast hall, one could purchase a bowl of coins which were then dropped in the 108 bronze bowls lining the length of the wall. Dropping the coins into the bowls made a beautiful ringing sound. I understood the money went towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat Pho. One hundred and eight is a significant number in Buddhism, referring to the 108 positive actions and symbols which helped lead Buddha to perfection.

That evening we strolled along the famous Khao San Road, ate a few bugs, and drank smoothies from the cart around the corner. We further learned it was election day, and no beer was sold. Fortunately, Rouen brought two bottles of red wine from home. So we sat on the roof terrace looking out over the Chao Praya River, enjoying a good bottle of South African wine.

 

17 March - Bangkok

A slight misunderstanding caused missing the train to Samut Songkhram, home to the Maeklong Railway Market.

Still, we managed to catch the 10.30 one, but it took a long wait for a connecting train. So a better option was a minivan taxi. This allowed us to watch the train come through the legendary Maeklong Market. Here a warren of stalls spilt over onto the railway line. As the train approached, traders hastily packed produce and canopies, allowing the train to pass. Once passed, everything went back into place in record time and trade continued as if nothing had happened.

Then onto the Amphawa floating market in Songthaew. Eventually, we returned to Bangkok by minivan, where we opted for beer on the roof terrace.

 

18 March - Bangkok

Feeling lazy, we all slept in and thus late when we had breakfast at the Gecko Bar. Micah wanted a tattoo, so we enquired at Divine Ink about time and prices. Bangkok was sweltering, and after having our fill of dim sum, we made our way to the relative coolness of our guesthouse to relax until sunset.

 

19 March Bangkok – Ayutthaya by train

The following day we headed to the train station to board a train to Ayutthaya. The train was hot and the seats hard, but it came at a very reasonable price. Arriving in Ayutthaya was in the mid-day heat and we flagged down a tuk-tuk for the short ride to Baan Lotus Guesthouse. The sweltering weather made opting for an air-con room in this lovely old building.

Later a short walk took us to the UNESCO World Heritage Park. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. The city enjoyed an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago and soon became Asia’s trading capital. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world, sporting a total of 1 million inhabitants. However, all this came to a swift end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and practically raised it to the ground.

Albeit too hot to take pictures, we snapped a few before returning to our aircon room, only to reappear long past sunset.

 

20 March Ayutthaya – Kanchanaburi – by Mini Van

A minivan picked us up for the ride to Kanchanaburi. Less than three hours later, we were dropped at Tamarind Guesthouse, where we booked a barge on the River Kwai. Brutally hot, we stayed indoors until around 5 o’clock before wandering to the bridge over the famous River Kwai.

The bridge is a significant tourist attraction in Kanchanaburi. Hundreds of people were milling about, taking pictures and strolling across the bridge to the opposite side. En route to our abode, we followed suit and uncovered a roadside eatery and beer.

 

21-22 March - Kanchanaburi – Hua Hin

Finally, we headed to the famous Thailand coast for a beach holiday. A tuk-tuk took us to the bus terminal, where minivans ran to Hua Hin. Again, a 3-hour ride and dropped within easy walking distance to our guesthouse. A room in an old, rickety guesthouse situated on stilts right over the water became home for the next two nights. We wasted no time heading to the beach, where the rest of the afternoon was spent in the shade of a large umbrella. In fact, so pleasant was Hua Hin we stayed an additional day.

 

23 March - Hua Hin – Koh Phangan

Checking out was at midday, although our bus to Surat Thani was only at 22h00. Micah and I found it pretty impossible to sleep, but Rouen dozed off occasionally. Our arrival in Surat Thani was around 8h00, from where a bus transported us to Don Sak pier to catch our ferry to Koh Phangan. Arriving at the Tropicana Resort, we were dead tired but headed straight to the ocean.

 

24–29 March - Koh Phangan

The days slipped by without doing a great deal. Instead, we swam in the lukewarm water of the Gulf of Thailand, drank cold beers and ate numerous plates of Thai food. Rouen and I attempted half-heartedly to run but never covered a significant distance. Eventually, Rouen rented a motorbike and, with Micah, set off to explore the remainder of the island.

 

30 March - Koh Phangan – Bangkok

We checked out of our comfortable accommodation and strolled to the ferry port, where enough time remained to grab a bite to eat. The ferry to Surat Thani takes almost 2.5 hours, and once there, all were ushered into a bus to the city centre. From the city centre, passengers were taken by tuk-tuk to a different bus station to catch the bus to Bangkok. This gave us enough time to explore the night market and sample an array of tasty dishes. Eventually, we boarded the night bus, a long and uncomfortable ride into Bangkok.

 

31 March – Bangkok

A day of leisure was spent in Bangkok as Micah had an appointment at the tattoo studio. Afterwards, we headed to Pattaya, where a few days were spent.

 

1-4 April - Pattaya

We lazed around the swimming pool and walked along the beachfront, nibbling food from the night market while drinking copious amounts of smoothies, iced coffees, and Chang beer. Unfortunately, we didn’t do half the planned, but Micah and Rouen had to return to Cape Town.

Having them was a pleasure; I hoped it wouldn’t be 12 years until their next visit.

CAMBODIA (9.2) - JANICE - PART 2 - PHNOM PENH TO THAILAND

 

CAMBODIA (9.2) – Janice - Part 2

Phnom Penh - Thailand
301 Km - 7 Days
1 March – 7 March 2019

MAP

PHOTOS

  

1 March – Phnom Penh – Angkor Borei – 93 km

Janice and I biked out of Phnom Penh amidst hectic morning traffic and past men eating noodles soup from their haunches from mobile carts. Twenty kilometres later, we were fortunately out of the thick of things.

Having had enough of the congestion, we veered off to follow a smaller path running next to the Tonle Sap River. Halfway Janice stopped and bought a new saddle, hoping it would sort out her butt problem. The road was mostly paved, and we only encountered a short stretch of dirt road, thus arriving in Angkor Borei in good time.

 

2-3 March - Angkor Borei – Kampot – 103 km

Knowing it would be a tough day of cycling, we set out as early as possible. However, the Angkor Borei/Takeo ferry only got underway at around 8h00. Packed in like sardines, the boat sped across the lake, saving us a long and rough ride around the lake. Unfortunately, no paved road connected Takeo to the main road. We struggled along on a sandy and rough track until reaching the highway. Once there, the going became considerably more manageable, and good time was made in the direction of Kampot.

Unfortunately, 20 kilometres from Kampot the road deteriorated (to put it mildly) as a new road was being built. In the company of other vehicles, we snaked our way around potholes in a cloud of dust, making dreadfully slow progress. Covered in dust, Janice and I eventually biked into Kampot and headed straight to Kampot River Bungalow. To our dismay they were full but, mercifully, a nipa hut on stilts next door at the Naga House was available. Naga House is a beautiful setup on the river sporting a wooden dock over the water.

Staying the next day came easy as we couldn’t drag ourselves away from such a beautiful setting.

 

4 March - Kampot – Sihanoukville – 105 km

Although February is the dry season in Cambodia, rain usually falls during this time. Unfortunately, we haven’t experienced any rain since departing Bangkok, a month and a half before. Over three-quarters of Cambodia’s population relies primarily on subsistence agriculture. Drought can, thus, tip large numbers of people into poverty. For us, the lack of rain made the ride a dry and dusty affair.

At first, the road was brand new and the going good. However, halfway to Veal Renh, we encountered the dreaded roadworks. We found nearly all vehicles preferred driving next to the road instead of on it. Only the minivan taxis seemed unfazed by the enormous potholes.

We pushed on regardless, following the snaking traffic in a cloud of dust, eventually arriving in Sihanoukville in peak hour traffic. Unfortunately, Sihanoukville was nothing but a vast building site. All the old and well-known guesthouses were gone and, by then, either empty lots or places where new ones were being constructed. I was relieved to find the Big Easy still holding its own, albeit at the absorbent price of $30 a fan room. Time to head to the islands, and that was exactly what we did.

 

5 March – Sihanoukville – Koh Rong (by ferry)

Arrangements were made to leave our bicycles and panniers at the Big Easy and, armed with only one small bag; we headed to the ferry port. In no time at all, we found ourselves on Koh Rong Island with its crystal-clear water and laidback lifestyle. We lazed around and swam in the lukewarm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. We ate at tables on the water’s edge and did truly little apart from lounging about.

Eventually, the time came to return to the mainland and Thailand, where Janice stowed her bicycle box and from where she planned to fly home to Cape Town, South Africa.

 

6 March - Koh Rong – Sihanoukville (by ferry)

The ample choice of ferries to the mainland made a leisurely departure. Once in Sihanoukville, we collected our cycles and panniers from the Big Easy and went on the hunt for alternative accommodation as the Big Easy was fully booked. Supper was at one of the beach restaurants and, to me at least, it’s always a novelty to eat whilst wiggling my toes in the sand.

 

Thailand (19) – Janice – Cambodian border to Pattaya

15 Km – 8 Days

7 March – 14 April 2019

7-8 March - Sihanoukville – Klong Yai - 15 km

Out of visa time, a bus ticket was purchased from Sihanoukville to the Thai/Cambodian border. The bus departed at 8 o’clock and we were ready to roll at an early hour. Unfortunately, the bus didn’t leave until considerably later and, surprisingly, took us all the way to the border. Border crossings can be tedious affairs, but all went well, and we were stamped out of Cambodia and into Thailand without any problems. From the border, a mere 15 kilometres led to Klong Yai, which had accommodation and an exciting night market.

The next morning, a Songthaew (a covered pickup truck with open sides and seats along each side) took us to Trat. Unfortunately, Janice wasn’t feeling well and suffered from stomach problems (it must’ve been from the previous night’s cuisine). However, the ride was inexpensive, and the Songthaew dropped us at the Trat bus station. From Trat, busses ran to Pattaya.

Janice was terribly ill, and with at least four hours to wait until the next bus, there wasn’t a good deal she could do but try and lay down on the uncomfortable bus station plastic chairs. Eventually, the bus arrived and the sun was long gone on arrival in Pattaya. In darkness, we cycled the last few kilometres to Jomtien, bringing to an end Janice’s holiday.

 

9-12 March - Pattaya

Being a day ahead of schedule, good use was made of our time and on emerging at leisure we strolled to the beach. Janice, by then, felt considerably better, and could do last-minute shopping, pack her bike and get ready for her flight to Cape Town. But, unfortunately, far too soon the time came for her to head to the airport for her flight to South Africa.

 

13-14 March - Pattaya

I’d precisely one day to do laundry and repack bags before heading to Bangkok, where I met Rouen (brother-in-law) and Micah (niece and godchild) for a three-week backpacking holiday in Thailand. The easiest way of getting to Bangkok was to catch a bus to the airport and, from there, a bus directly to Khao San Road, leaving a short meander to the Riverline Guesthouse, my abode of choice.

CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (9.1) - A RIDE AROUND CAMBODIA - CAMERA IN HAND - MEGAN, ERMA & JANICE

 

CAMBODIA (9.1)

913 Km – 25 Days
2 February – 27 February 2019

PHOTOS

MAP

 2 February - Phnom Penh

Megan and Erma arrived in Phnom Penh late on 2 February and must’ve been exhausted after their long flight. Still, it was lovely to meet them; unfortunately, their flight landed in the afternoon, and there remained little time to do anything of note. There barely remained enough time to head to the promenade, where one could stroll along in the company of Khmers doing their daily exercises.

Phnom Penh has a wonderful location on the Tonle Sap River, which connects Tonle Sap Lake to the Mekong. The two rivers meet at Phnom Penh, making it a convenient place to watch the river flow past.

Our evening meal was at the night market, where one could pick delicacies from the countless stalls and then enjoy them sitting on mats provided for such a purpose. As expected, Erma and Megan turned in early as they departed Namibia 24 hours earlier and were, understandably, exhausted.

 

3 February - Phnom Penh

Together with my jetlagged friends, we were up at dawn. Not only to stroll towards the Royal Palace but to make the best use of the early morning light. It’s such a pleasure being out at that time of the morning. As Kipling said, “The dawn came up like thunder” while strolling past the immensely popular Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine, where people prayed for good luck. Even at such an early hour, devotees were lighting candles, and the smell of incense was already thick in the air.

We wandered the grounds of Wat Ounalom, the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. Founded in 1443, we understood the head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lived on-site. The stupa is further rumoured to contain an eyebrow hair of the Buddha.

Later, once the bikes were reassembled, Megan and Erma explored the city’s famous sights by tuk-tuk. Janice and I did a few outstanding chores, and before knowing it, time came to head to the river for a sunset cruise. Armed with a few beers, we boarded a ferry via a narrow gangplank and spent a few enjoyable hours on the river watching the sun set over this famous river.

Supper was done in true Khmer style by ordering various dishes and sharing them amongst the four of us. The frog was delicious, as were the salad spring rolls and the other dishes.

 

4 February – Phnom Penh - Koh Dock - 52 km

Preparations for Chinese New Year were in full swing as our little group pedalled out of Phnom Penh in the direction of Koh Dach, or Silk Island, situated at the confluence of the Tonle and Mekong Rivers. The route to the ferry was approximately nine kilometres. It took us through typical Cambodian suburbs, wooden houses on stilts and hand-drawn carts pulled and pushed by manpower. Greetings of “Happy New Year!” were called from doorways, and others burned paper money offerings in honour of ancestors. Temples were hives of activities as Chinese New Year was when people gifted monks with vast quantities of food.

On reaching the ferry, a short ride took us to the island known for its silk weaving. Cambodia has a lengthy silk-weaving history, believed to date to pre-Angkorian times. Albeit a dwindling art, Koh Dach was still dotted by weaving communities. On the ferry, a lady befriended us and offered to show us her home where they spun silk. We watched in fascination as they went about their trade, and were in awe of their ability to weave such intricate patterns.

A country lane circumnavigates the island, making for a pleasurable ride and an opportunity to drink coconut juice. The lady skilfully hacked open the coconuts using a machete. Once finished, we handed them back to the vendor, who cracked them open and crafted spoons from the side to scrape out the coconut meat within. The path led past small kids, giving the impression they were a tad nervous seeing four “farangs” on bicycles.

Following a light lunch of pork pau and ice cream, our slightly dusty path took us to the ferry. Unfortunately, Erma discovered her seat stem broken, and we hailed a tuk-tuk to take her to our abode. On arrival at the guesthouse, Erma and I searched for a bike shop. Still, the majority were closed due to Chinese New Year celebrations. I thought us super lucky to find a shop still open to replace the seat stem. Then, back to have a shower before returning to the night market.

 

5 February – Phnom Penh – Oudong(k) – 52 km

Leaving Phnom Penh was on Chinese New Year and in the direction of Oudonk. Getting out of Phnom Penh was surprisingly effortless, and I was impressed by how well my friends handled the horrendous Phnom Penh traffic, which can intimidate newcomers.

Soon, the hectic road spat us out on a country lane and past fascinating brick-making kilns. Our route took us past rural areas where kids still rode a “broom-horse” or played “kick the flip-flop”, the rules of which still elude me. Roadside stalls sold tamarind and lotus seeds, which were not as tasty as anticipated. But, to the surprise of one eatery owner, four foreign women on bicycles stopped and ordered noodle soup. The soup was delicious, albeit prepared using instant noodles, but they were forgiven as it was, after all, Chinese New Year.

With renewed energy, we set off and came upon the remarkable Wat Sowann Thamareach. This wasn’t a traditional temple but seemed a copy of an ancient one. The buildings were exquisite with amazing light inside; still, it appeared little known.

A country lane led to Phnom Udong, past a hill topped by spires of stupas resembling a fairy castle. The stupa on the central hill was rumoured to house the remains of past kings and once at the top stunning scenes greeted us. Such vistas seldom came without first having to ascend a few stairs. My friends took the stairs in their stride and never complained about being dragged up a hill after a day on the bike.

From Phnom Udong, a short ride took us to Oudonk which sported a few places to stay and we picked one across the road from a restaurant. So came to an end our first day of riding. Kudos to Janice, Megan and Erma, who rode like seasoned cycle tourers, never complaining even when the road was poor.

 

6-7 February - Oudongk – Kampong Chhnang – 55 km

On waking, our room had been invaded by ants. Just about the whole shebang was covered in ants, from our snacks to the towels! I dressed in a great hurry to take my panniers outside, only to discover I’d not only the proverbial ants in my pants but real ones. The pants were promptly ripped off but I was already covered in ant bites by then! Phew!

The way was unpleasantly congested, but the lack of minor roads made us continue along the highway, only turning off once to follow a rural route through the countryside. On rounding a corner, Megan slipped in the loose sand and landed herself in a ditch in a cloud of dust. Before she could dust herself off, the entire community was there to help. Mercifully, she was unhurt and apart from a dirty bum and bruised ego, all was good. Not much further, a shady coconut seller allowed a breather. The lady (as always) hacked it open so one could eat the flesh inside. Janice wanted to try the “hacking open” but nearly chopped her thumb off! Clearly, she needed a great deal more machete practice. Before we proceeded to Kampong Chhnang, her wound was cleaned and bandaged as best we could.

The Garden Guesthouse, a real traveller’s lodge, lured us in. Janice and I caught a tuk-tuk to the health care centre where they cleaned her wound and re-bandaged it. An additional day was spent in Kampong Chhnang to allow Janice to get an anti-tetanus injection and investigate the nearby floating village.

The next morning, Janice and I woke early to go to the health care centre where she received the necessary injection. Better safe than sorry. Afterwards, Janice, Megan and Erma took a boat to the floating village, and I returned to our establishment to take care of a few chores.

 

8 February – Kampong Chhnang – Ponley – 55 km

As Chhnang means pottery in Khmer, it wasn’t surprising to find pottery in the area. Our first stop was at the pottery community of Andong Russey. Andong Russey was a small settlement where pots were stacked high under stilted homes. Stopping at various home industries, we found the process fascinating and photogenic. We clicked away before waving the families goodbye and headed further north. The route continued past an old Khmer Rouge abandoned airport, a complex built by the KR with the help of Chinese engineers. I understood the airport was never used and is still in good condition. No exploring was done.

Our path followed country roads past tiny hamlets where people still pumped water from wells. En route, we stopped spotting a young man scrambling up a makeshift bamboo ladder fixed to a sugar palm tree. It seemed containers were left in the tree overnight and full ones were collected in the morning. After being offered a sip, I was initially apprehensive but found it sweet and surprisingly delicious. The juice is boiled to make palm sugar.

The route continued past rice drying in the sun and the ever-present Buddhist temples. Farmers herd cattle along dusty roads as both kids and parents looked up in surprise as four foreign women pedalled past on loaded bicycles. Even the dogs looked too surprised to give chase.

A hawker provided watermelon which the lady peeled and cut up for us to enjoy. Janice, for obvious reasons, wasn’t allowed anywhere close to the knife. The watermelon was served with a side plate of sugar, salt and chillies, a rather unusual combination.

Then, on to the tiny community of Ponley where our arrival was in oppressing heat. The heat made exhausting riding and I think all were happy to find an air-con room to unwind the remainder of the day.

 

9 February – Ponely – Kampong Luong floating Village – 35 km

Departing Ponely was in the company of krama-clad ladies on bicycles and past stalls selling fruit we’d never seen before. Milk fruit or star apple is a round purple fruit with a soft inside and a vague blueberry taste. Other shops sold sugar discs made from sugar palm juice, fermented vegetables, and dried buffalo meat. Being weekend, several wedding ceremonies were encountered. It looked as if the entire wedding party was dressed in matching, brightly coloured silk costumes.

A road sign pointed to Kampong Luong. A few kilometres later boats waited to take people to and from the floating village of Kampong Luong. Arranging to leave our bicycles at their “office” was an uncomplicated affair. We hopped on a boat past countless floating homes to a homestay. Being a floating home, space was at a premium and the owner pointed us to two teeny rooms with mattresses on the floor and much-needed mosquito nets above. Sitting on the veranda, watching life in a floating village play out in front of us, wasn’t only pleasant but an eye-opener.

It looked as if kids who could hardly walk could quite comfortably row a boat. Kampong Luong was like any other settlement and included shops, petrol stations, schools, temples, and a police station. The only difference being the whole shebang floated. More astonishing, it appeared the water was used for pretty much everything, from having a bath to doing dishes and laundry. At the same time, everything seemed to go into the water! Staying in the village was a fascinating insight into the people’s lives.

 

10 February – Kampong Luong – Pursat – 65 km

First thing in the morning, a boat taxi collected and dropped us where we stowed the bicycles. Right from the start, our route followed rural roads past scrawny white cows and ornate temples. Houses on stilts sold petrol by the litre in Coke bottles while others were de-husking rice. Makeshift shops sold water and penny line sweets; others offered noodle soup and drinks more potent than water.

The hot and dusty day left us covered in red dust and required stopping at every shop to fill our water bottles. Spotting the ice cream man, we were as excited as the village kids and fell in line to wait our turn under scores of giggles. Pursat made a welcome sight and a place where one could still find a hotel with a bathtub!

 

11 February – Pursat – Moung Ruessei – 62 km

Exploring an old and spooky brickmaking factory made an exciting start to the day while monks and their helpers collected food. Interestingly, when collecting food monks don’t say thank you. The giving of alms isn’t considered a charity; instead, the giving and receiving of alms create a spiritual connection between the monastic and lay communities. The public has a responsibility to support the monks physically. In turn, the monks are obligated to spiritually support the community—what a lovely philosophy.

In the midday heat, temples made welcome resting areas as they usually had shade and toilets. On this occasion, it turned out a fascinating monastery with boy monks. Even though the young monks were incredibly shy, we snapped a few pics. Stopping wasn’t only to fill water bottles but to sample what was available at roadside eateries. The day’s favourite was fruit, especially the sweet and tasty pineapples.

In Moung Ruessei, the Oudom Hotel, with its pristine swimming pool, made comfortable accommodation and staying thus a no-brainer. Supper was at a nearby restaurant where we met Steve, an incredibly generous Cambodian who not only bought us beer but proceeded to pay for our meal. Thank you, Steve.

 

12-13 February - Moung Ruessei – Battambang – 86 km

In anticipation of a long day of biking, we made an early start. Our route followed a secondary road, but the paved road soon vanished and turned into a rough, bumpy dirt track. Still, it remained an interesting ride past old temples and villagers going about their daily routines. An old rice mill made a fascinating stop as inside it had an array of shoots, funnels, gears and belts.

Not much further, a lady peddled grilled rats from a wicker basket balanced on her head, and one was, nervously, purchased at a mere 1000 riel ($0.25 US). Everyone tried a piece, and all agreed grilled rat was delicious and better than chicken. The meat was tender and had a faint barbeque taste. I was impressed when Megan tried a small piece, albeit under the impression it was a squirrel. After learning it was indeed rat, she politely declined one more portion of tender thigh!

Realising our chosen route would take far too long, we returned to the main road making an unnecessary 20-kilometre detour. Thankfully, a stiff tailwind assisted us en route to Banan. The excellent road cycled on came to an end, but we persevered until reaching Banan, home to an ancient hilltop temple. This Angkor-era mountaintop temple was constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries. Construction was started by King Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya Varman II (1050-1066) and completed by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). From Banan temple, a pleasurable 22-kilometre ride took us to Battambang where we bunked down at the Royal Hotel.

By morning, a tuk-tuk ride made exploring the outlying Ek Phnom temple easy. En route, we stopped at the rice paper makers to eat freshly made spring rolls and passed hardworking ironmongers. At sunset, we headed for the hills to watch a gazillion bats fly out of their cave searching for food. A truly spectacular sight.

 

14 February – Battambang – Siem Reap – By boat - 14 km

We were up remarkably early to catch the boat across the Tonle Sap Lake to Siem Reap. In the wet season, this involves a short and uncomplicated cycle to the ferry pier. However, in the dry season, the water is far too shallow, and it took a 50-kilometre tuk-tuk ride to get us to the boat. Albeit a fascinating trip, it remained an awfully long day on a boat and all were happy to reach the end of the boat ride.

A short pedal led into bustling Siem Reap. The Jiu Yan Wu Angkor Hotel was considered a bargain at $20 a twin room, including a pool and breakfast. The evening was spent in lively and touristy Pub Street where we not only ate but did a wee bit of shopping.

 

15 February – Siem Reap

The previous night a tuk-tuk with Mr Lam at $30 was organised. The tour included a morning at the Angkor temples and returning to the Bayon temple at sunset. Being in the company of Megan was a great advantage as she guided us through shooting inside temples. I will be forever grateful to her for showing me the light! By evening a bottle of wine was polished off before supper, making the evening even more fun.

 

16 February - Siem Reap

Templed out, all slept late. I went for a run, and we later met for breakfast. Then, each went off in their respective directions. The previous night’s wine gave a taste of the good life, and an additional bottle was purchased to take to the restaurant. It turned out a fun evening - so much fun was had, the bill was paid twice!

 

17 February – Siem Reap – Svay Leu temple – 67 km

After breakfast, we pedalled out of Siem Reap. It took no time at all to find a rural path leading through tiny hamlets and seldom-visited areas. Ladies carted toddlers (to school?) in homemade wooden carts. Our dirt path was shared by pot salesmen, tuk-tuks and ladies leading cattle to greener pastures. Kids sold boiled corn which made convenient snacking, after which we popped into a temple and found the monks preparing their midday meal. A few pics were snapped before continuing our ride.

Eventually, landing in Svay Leu, permission was granted to sleep at the temple. Sleeping at the temple turned out a fascinating experience as monks prepared to celebrate Meak Bochea. Meak Bochea is a religious holiday in Cambodia commemorating Buddha’s final sermon. To the villagers’ surprise, four foreigners made their way to a nearby restaurant where noodle soup was ordered following a lengthy discussion and sign language.

 

18 February - Svay Leu Temple – Preah Vihear – 98 km

I can’t say we’d a peaceful night’s sleep as the temple dogs howled the best part of the night and temple music played (what felt like) the entire night. Early morning, chickens started crowing, which also got the dogs going. I guess it was time to get up anyhow. The commotion led to an earlier than usual start, first stopping for breakfast which consisted of yet another bowl of noodle soup.

The section between Svay Leu and Preah Vihear was a longer than usual day of riding. Mercifully, the day was cloudy, making for pleasurable cycling and stopping numerous times to fill our water bottles.

There weren’t many photo stops as we stuck to the task at hand and headed to Preah Vihear. The road passed huge cashew nut plantations where these strange fruits were in the process of becoming ripe. A great deal of the way was either planted under cashew nuts or were cashew nut nurseries. Towards the end of the day, four hot, tired, dusty farangs slinked into tiny Preah Vihear, ready to devour whatever was on offer.

 

19 February – Preah Vihear – Chhaeb - 57 km

Our leisurely start was due to the previous day’s long ride. Following a breakfast of rice porridge, we continued our quest. Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple where Meak Bochea was being celebrated. Devotees brought food to the temple and monks and nuns sat on mats, enjoying the feast.

After taking a few pics and thanking the monks, we continued in the direction of Chhaeb along a somewhat desolate stretch of road. Not a great deal was happening, and good time was made, only stopping to fill our water bottles. The weather was sweltering; even motorbike salesmen pulled off to rest in the shade. The four crazy women, nevertheless, continued and reached Chhaeb relatively early.

A guesthouse provided reasonable accommodation and only a short walk to the temple where monks weren’t only chanting but where a small fanfare was in progress. We hung around, waiting for the full moon, but nothing came of our full moon photoshoot as the sky was too hazy. Megan, not surprisingly, managed to get a few brilliant shots. Returning to our abode, a street-side eatery provided beer, fried noodles and rice.

 

20 February – Chhaeb – Stung Treng – 88 km

Before leaving one more visit was paid to the temple, but it turned out already too late to get any decent pictures. Megan went far earlier and captured the best pics of the trip.

The way to Stung Treng was effortless riding and the weather was in our favour. The tarmac was excellent, and the route gently undulating, just enough to keep the boredom at bay. Loading the bikes, cycling, stopping to fill our water bottles or admiring the landscape became a familiar routine.

Our day’s ride finished in Stung Treng, where the Golden River Hotel, situated right on the river, was home that night.

 

21 February – Stung Treng – Kratie – by minivan

The stretch between Stung Treng and Kratie was 130 kilometres and offered little of interest. While considering taking a bus, our decision was made even easier when we were approached and offered a minivan ride to Kratie. The quote of $20 per person, including bicycles, was considered a fair price. Once in Kratie, a tuk-tuk ride took us to the pier, where boats departed to the river dolphin viewing. The skipper didn’t have to go far as the dolphins were playing close by, and we sat watching them in fascination.

It needs mentioning that the Irrawaddy dolphins are rare freshwater dolphins. Unlike most dolphin species with long noses and pointed features, the Irrawaddy species have a blunt nose, straight mouth, rounded tail, and fins. It’s said genetically; these dolphins are closely related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting! Although called the Irrawaddy River dolphin, I understood they are not actual river dolphins but oceanic dolphins living in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and estuaries. By now, it has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including the Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are highly vulnerable as the worldwide population appears around 7,000. One more interesting fact is they are practically blind. They have tiny eyes, lack lenses, and can do little more than distinguish between light and dark. What a fascinating world!

 

22 February – Kratie – Peace Hut – 86 km

From Kratie, we opted for the river trail. The Mekong River forms the heart of Cambodia, and 80% of Cambodians still follow a traditional lifestyle. Our route felt like a never-ending village, past people living simple lives by fishing and farming rice. The Khmers have a close connection to family and generally live together in extended families. With Cambodians loving big families, plenty of kids were running amok.

Towards the end of the day, The Peace Hut signalled the end of our day’s ride. The Peace Hut was a pleasant surprise and came with two basic nipa huts on stilts right on the banks of the Mekong River. The two rooms had mats for sleeping and a small bamboo deck to unwind and watch the river. In addition, a bamboo viewing platform was the perfect place to enjoy our nightly beer. All at $2 per person!

 

23-24 February - Peace Hut – Kampong Chan - 40 km

Shortly after departing, our path crossed the river. It then ran along the opposite bank to Kampong Cham, a short but exciting ride. The Mekong Hotel was a good choice offering $15 air-con rooms with river vistas.

The next day was spent in Kampong Cham, as it turned out a relaxed place to hang out and enjoy our last day of cycle touring. A short cycle took us to the bamboo bridge, rebuilt each year after the rainy season. The Mekong River separates Kampong Cham town from Koh Paen. However, the river becomes too shallow in the dry season for a ferry. So, the island’s residents each year build a seasonal, kilometre-long bamboo bridge.

At first, the plan was to cycle from Kampong Cham to Phnom Penh. However, the ride into the city came with horrendous traffic. Furthermore, the ride is mainly along a highway, which doesn’t make a good combination for cycle touring. We thus arranged a minivan to take us into the city, making it a more enjoyable way to end the holiday.

 

25-27 February - Kampong Cham – Phnom Penh (by minivan)

The minivan picked us up at 9h00, and with bikes strapped to the rear, it headed to Phnom Penh, where we were relieved to arrive, finding all four bikes still intact.

Megan and Erma’s last few days were spent shopping, eating, and doing a few things not done previously. However, enough time remained to re-visit the morning market, where ladies fried and steamed their respective delicacies. Through a cloud of steam, we watched early morning shoppers filling their bags or eating from the endless array of vendors where pots and pans were clanging, steaming, bubbling and sizzling.

With Megan and Erma’s bikes boxed and shopping done, they soon headed to the airport to catch their return flight to Namibia.