80 THAILAND (7)
1,766 Kilometres – 36 Days
20 May – 15 June 2016
MAP
O80 PHOTOS
081 PHOTOS
FLIP-BOOK
PDF
080 Thailand (7)
1,766
Kilometres – 36 Days
19
May – 15 June 2016
19
May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km
There
wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly
stated, “Don’t even think about it!” The 60 kilometres to the border was
uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand was easy-peasy. I followed the usual
SIM card and ATM routine before a 57-kilometre cycle ride spat me out in Hat
Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora of inexpensive
digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai Baht (app. $10) for a
sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.
20
May - Hat Yai – Phatthalung - 110 km
Hat
Yai was along a rural route, and the day turned out surprisingly exciting. When
travelling by bicycle, one seldom flies under the radar, and my path led
slap-bang through the centre of the Friday market. It was clear the area was
off the beaten track, as not only were the road signs in Thai, but my
presence caused quite a stir and seemed to put the fear of God into the kids. Villagers
informed it was impossible to reach Bangkok by bicycle, and not even the mange
dogs gave chase. However, the leading indicator that this was rural Thailand was
coming upon the “reading tree”, where a pair of communal reading glasses was left
hanging from a branch. The way ran past large rubber tree plantations, small
villages, and a multitude of temples.
My
ride occurred between bouts of rain; luckily, convenient shelters gave cover
when the heavens opened. Around 5 p.m., I pedalled, sopping wet, into Phatthalung,
located a room, and hurried to the night market. Of course, one should never go
to the night market hungry, as indicated by the amount of food I purchased. My meander
further revealed that it was a Buddhist holiday, so no beer was sold. Sigh!
21
May – Phatthalung – Thung Song – 90 km
A vital
document I had sent via DHL from India never reached Cape Town, and more
than two weeks later, it was still nada, nothing, niks. Oi, the Indian post and
I didn’t get along well. Of course, I had a tracking number, but its status was
“number not activated.” Searching the internet revealed no telephone number for
Kochi DHL. DHL Customer Care was equally useless. My only option was to email
Henry from Kevin’s Homestay (my previous accommodation) to ask him for help. In
the meantime, the area was scanned for a courier company to resend the document
as the closest DHL office was in Krabi, 220 kilometres west. Arghh!
By morning,
a flower garland adorned my handlebar as I pulled my cap down and continued
north. What must be done, must be done. Seventy kilometres down the drag and 20
kilometres before the Krabi turn-off, an email arrived from Henry. He not only
got me the number but also went to the post office, spoke to them, and gathered
all the details concerning the document and the new tracking number. There are fantastic
people in this world!
The
document arrived in Cape Town but was on hold as the fee charged wasn’t
sufficient to cover delivery. Have you ever? I wondered how long it would’ve
taken them to inform me. It boggles the mind, and there was no thanking Henry
enough for his efforts. However, Tung Song made it a convenient place to stay
overnight and to ensure everything was sorted before proceeding.
22-23
May - Thung Song
A
day was spent in Thung Song to double-check that everything was in order. In
the process, I ate everything in sight but stopped short of going into KFC. My eating
spree started at the morning market and continued through the day, up to the
night market. LOL. The exciting part was coming upon an intriguing festival.
Devotees en route to the temple revealed cheeks pierced by metal spikes,
accompanied by a procession of dancers and, of course, the ever-present
fireworks. The affair was colourful and boisterous, not to mention bizarre.
I
felt increasingly weak as the day progressed, and I had quite a fever by
evening. I feared I had contracted dengue fever, as my illness came with all
the body aches and upset stomach. The night was spent tossing and turning, and
it was 3:30 before I dozed off. A racquet outside my window woke me at 6.30,
and I realised the fever had subsided. How weird, having such a fever and having
it all gone by morning.
Once
off the beaten touristy track, little English was spoken. It’s unsurprising, as
English isn’t one of Thailand’s official languages. English wasn’t even spoken at
the hotel, but it’s not too difficult to indicate your intentions when entering
a hotel. Not feeling well, I toyed with ordering a basic pizza instead of
eating my usual fried noodles. Still, the process proved a tad more complicated
than foreseen. In the end, I settled for the traditional fried noodles.
I
received word that the document posted in India had been traced and had finally
reached its destination (many phone calls later). Hallelujah!
24
May - Thung Song – Surat Thani - 110 km
Someone
asked if cycle touring was still exciting after nine years. Amazingly enough, a
new destination remained as exciting as the first day. Each day (weather
providing) put a big grin on my face and I believed myself one of the world’s
luckiest people. Cycle touring may not always be easy or comfortable, but whose
life is devoid of ups and downs and saddle sores, figuratively speaking?
The
two days’ rest did me a world of good. I felt energetic; not even the rain or
roadworks could dampen my spirit. It rained the entire day, but I clipped in my
flashing lights for added visibility and flew to Surat Thani. There must’ve
been a tailwind, as I seldom “flew” anywhere. Finally, accommodation was
secured at the Route 44 and 41 intersection, which allowed for showering and
donning dry clothes.
25
May - Surat Thani district – Roadside cottage - 110 km
The
day turned out to be another 110-kilometre ride. The weather was cool and,
although a constant drizzle prevailed, the rain didn’t bucket down as usual,
and it felt like I was burning up the tarmac. “Felt” being the operative word
as, in reality, I was doing my usual slow ride!
There
were heaps of lovely people en route. A friendly lady was selling steamed palm
cakes and they were delicious. The next stop was the coconut sellers where the
vendor handed me a unique coconut containing a shell filled with jelly. It was
delicious, thirst-quenching, and fantastic, and she wanted no money.
Following
110 kilometres of riding, convenient chalets came into view. The price was
reasonable, and it sported a small shop selling crisps, beer, and cup noodles.
I love it when a plan comes together.
26
May - Roadside cottage – Chumphon – 90 km
The
rain continued throughout the night and it was still drizzling by morning. Not
particularly good at waiting, I donned my plastic raincoat (cut in half to make
cycling easier) and headed to Chumphon. Fortunately, the weather soon cleared,
and the day became pleasant biking.
I
came across ladies selling steamed palm cakes which made for a perfect
breakfast. Thailand is aptly known as the land of smiles, and during the
day I encountered tons of smiling faces, from fruit sellers to plastic bottle
collectors. As always, my route went past countless beautiful temples and the
ever-present durian vendors.
Chumphon
offered digs at the Farang Bar, which looked a tad worse for wear. The rooms
were basic, but one couldn’t complain about the price.
While
cycling, I noticed a severe wobble in my wheel, which led me to search for a
bike shop. However, I decided to first grab a bite to eat. Fortunately, in
Thailand, you can smell the food sellers from miles away.
Eventually,
I found a bike shop but, unfortunately, the language barrier made it difficult
to communicate my needs. However, I did come across an extensive array of dim
sum, which made up for the lack of success at the bike shop.
27
May - Chumphon
The
phrase "Don't have" is often the first response from staff when a
foreigner enters a shop in Thailand. Hence sorting out the wheel wasn’t all
that easy. Moreover, one discovers how frustrating and challenging
communication can be when doing business in a foreign country. Despite these
obstacles, I persisted and eventually found a second-hand rim that would
hopefully last until I reached Bangkok. I also managed to locate a keyboard for
my laptop, which had lost the use of the bottom row of keys. And there I
thought the Mercury retrograde was over.
Afterwards,
I half-heartedly cleaned the drizzled fuel mess off the bike, did the laundry,
and cleaned my water bottles, which by then had a lush growth of fungi. I felt
sorry for the French couple next door, as the lady had contracted dengue fever
and was very ill.
28
May - Chumphon – Thungwualaen Beach – 20 km
Chumphon
to Thungwualaen Beach was a mere 20 kilometres, but it was one of my favourite
beaches. However, the place looked a tad forlorn. Nonetheless, I managed to
find a decent room for 300 baht. Although I could tell from the drippings and
the hole gnawed in the table that I wasn’t the only occupant.
29-30
May - Thungwualaen Beach – Bang Saphan Beach – 95 km
Feeling
lethargic, I soldiered on, past heaps of beachside accommodation, all looking extremely
inviting as they were right on the beach. The road ran past many beautiful temples,
all immensely colourful and ornate. A few temples featured a Buddha in the
shade of a multi-headed king cobra, known as the Naga Buddha, which is believed
to have protected the Buddha from the elements while he attained enlightenment.
My
route followed the coast, and the recently resurfaced road was in perfect
condition and sported a lovely bike lane. The way crossed numerous rivers where
fishing boats were lying side by side, sometimes three or four deep. Smoke billowed
from mobile carts selling grilled fish and other delicious looking eats. The smoky
aroma was enough to make anyone hungry.
Bang
Saphan Beach was reached early, even though the way was slightly hillier. I
only mentioned this because southern Thailand is flat, and one seldom
encounters hills.
I
spent an extra day in Bang Saphan as enough time remained to reach Bangkok and
meet Tania for a six-week touring holiday in Southeast Asia. So, I went for a
jog but didn’t go far due to the short beach, which was only about five or six
kilometres.
Early
morning the weather was already boiling, and the locals must have thought I was
insane for running. Thais, generally, prefer indoor sports like badminton,
table tennis and Muay Thai. If they found me strange cycling (while they all
have bicycles), you could imagine their surprise seeing a person running.
31
May–2 June - Bang Saphan Beach – Prachaup Khiri Khan – 93 km
Emerging
tired due to spending half the night chasing cockroaches was no surprise. As
soon as the light was off, they came out. Sandal in hand, I gave chase, but
they gave me a good run for my money. These wee buggers were as fast as
lightning.
By
morning, I left Bang Saphan with a pack of dogs in hot pursuit and I could’ve
sworn an intrusion of cockroaches followed us. Cartoon style, I gripped the
handlebars, pushed my elbows out, flattened myself, and gunned it out of Bang
Saphan. The entire neighbourhood’s dogs wanted a piece of me that day. Mercifully,
a smaller path veered off, and they gave up.
The
road hugged the coast nearly the entire way to Prachuap, making it near paradise.
Low-key accommodation lined the beach, consisting of bungalows barely visible
behind bougainvillaea and frangipanis. The only sign of life was often a lone
hammock strung between two palm trees, lazily swinging in the slight breeze.
Bliss!
The
area was rural; chickens darted across the path, men fished in small dugout
canoes, temples, shrines, and the ever-present snakes abounded. I’m sure
Thailand has the largest population of snakes in the world. It’s a miracle I
didn’t ride over any. The weather looked ominous, but I pushed on, wondering if
I could out-cycle the approaching storm. Amazingly enough, I reached my destination
without getting soaked. In hindsight, it was a good day as neither the dogs,
snakes, nor rain caught me—pity about those darn cockroaches. I swear I’m not
making this up.
The
following morning dawned bright and sunny, a good morning for a run. The
promenade stretched a few kilometres north and south, making it an enjoyable
run. Before returning to Maggie's Homestay, I jogged past the pier, a resident
troop of monkeys, and the Khao Chong Krachok hill temple. Maggie’s wasn’t only
dirt cheap but a pleasant place to stay. As a result, one more day was spent in
Prachuap Khiri Khun, especially following rumours of torrential rain.
3
June - Prachuap Khiri Khun – Khao Sam Roi National Park - 70 km
Hanging
out at Maggie’s Homestay, shooting the breeze with the other travellers, came
easily. Most of the people at Maggie’s seemed to do long stints in Thailand. We
drank a few beers, and I debated staying for another day, but moving on
is what I did.
Thus,
I saddled up and pointed the bike toward the nearby National Park. The park had
roughly six caves and investigating the Phraya Nakhon Cave sounded fun. En
route, I met a family on bikes - mum, dad, and three kids aged one to six years.
How cool is that? Mum carried the littlest one in front in a kind of baby seat and
the middle one behind her while dad was on a recumbent with the eldest.
Needless to say, they were loaded. I tip my hat to them.
An
abode along the river lured me in and I set out toward Phraya Nakhon Cave.
Getting to the cave involved cycling to the beach, taking a boat around the
headland, and a hike up the steep mountain. The cave housed a beautiful temple,
but it was already late, and no light came through the cave ceiling.
4
June - Khao Sam Roi National Park – Cha-Am – 80 km
I
had difficulty dragging myself from under the white linen (a novelty), as I
rarely enjoyed the luxury of a room that provided any cover, let alone white
linen. Moreover, Thailand’s weather is far too hot and humid, and thus, there
is no need for blankets or even a sheet.
With
my African music going full blast, I set off through the hills of the National
Park. Indecisive about overnighting in Hua Hin, I continued to Cha-Am. At first,
I considered giving Cha-Am a miss, but Bangkok was a comfortable two-day ride
away. Moreover, I wasn’t happy finding a tick on me, even though getting tick-bite
fever was unlikely. Still, I wasn’t too fond of these pests. The reports of
rabid dogs in the area were far more worrying.
5
June - Cha-Am - Samut Songkhram – 90 km
The
stretch between Cha-Am and Samut Songkhram was varied and scenic. Not only was
the way dotted with interesting food and drinks stands, but ran past salt
farms, tiny fishing villages, temples, and mangrove swamps. Crab fishing
was at the order of the day and almost every stall offered cooked crab. Add an excellent
road featuring a cycle lane, and the ride was pleasurable.
Albeit
blistering hot, I rolled into Samut Songkhram early and headed to Hometown
Hostel. The hostel is lovely, offering modern air-con dorms, clean bathrooms,
and friendly staff. Once unpacked, I made a beeline for the markets as they
were already in full swing.
Samut
Songkhram is home to the fascinating railway market that spills onto the
railway line. Canopies hurriedly get taken down when a train approaches. However,
once the train has passed, the whole shebang goes back into place, and trade continues.
6-12
June - Samut Songkhram – Bangkok – 90 km
One
of the great things about cycle touring is the opportunity to explore minor and
rural country roads. It's astonishing how rural the outskirts of bustling
Bangkok can be. Along the many rivers and canals, people live and make a living
from the canals, and even the taxi stands are longtail boat jetties. It wasn't
unusual to meet people, like a broom and feather duster salesman or an elephant
carer, but our conversations were limited.
Everything
went smoothly until around midday when I began to feel feverish and my entire
body started aching, from my hair follicles to my ankles. I was drained of all
my energy but kept going, remembering my motto: I'll reach my destination if I
keep moving forward. I honestly didn't think I could finish the last 20 kilometres,
and even resorted to counting to keep myself going.
As
if feeling this dreadful wasn’t enough, the traffic was horrendous due to the
construction of a new Skytrain—what a mess. Once in Bangkok, I went straight to
my old go-to guesthouse, only to find they no longer existed. I had no energy
to search for alternative accommodation and opted for the next available room,
where I collapsed onto the bed, trembling and vomiting everything I had eaten
that day. Looking back, I don't know how I managed to cycle the 90 kilometres from
Samut Songkhram.
Over
the next few days, my condition worsened. Dengue fever is a mosquito-borne
illness that currently has no cure. As the name suggests, it is characterised
by high fever, severe body aches and pains, headaches, pain behind the eyes,
nausea and vomiting. My body ached, and the slightest movement caused shooting
pains that made me groan. Eating was impossible, as everything came straight
back up. The only available medication treated the symptoms, so I stocked up on
painkillers and anti-nausea tablets. It felt like I slept for 40 days and 40
nights, and when I finally woke up, I had lost half my body weight. Despite
this, I wouldn't recommend dengue fever as a weight loss programme.
I
was always aware that Tania was arriving in a few days, and there I was, unable
to get to the corner store, let alone cycle tour Southeast Asia.
081
Thailand (7.1)718
Kilometres – 10 Days14
June - 25 June 2016
June
13-15 – Bangkok
On
the day Tania arrived, I finally felt better than the previous days. My
breakfast stayed down, and I even managed to drink coffee. Tania arrived around
midday, impressing me with her exceptional packing skills. She had neatly
packed her belongings into her bike box and only one other bag, a testament to
her efficiency and preparedness. I straightaway knew she was a winner.
After
my bout of dengue fever, I needed to get myself back into cycling shape so we
could explore Southeast Asia. In the meantime, we explored Bangkok, walked
through pedestrian lanes, ate from street vendors, and enjoyed the general
chaos of the city.
June
16-17 - Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 83 km
After
spending two days exploring Bangkok, I was excited to leave as I was tired of
my run-down accommodation. Luckily, we could leave earlier than planned as the
weather was pleasant and the traffic not too hectic.
Leaving
Bangkok can be challenging, but Tania did an excellent job and we cycled out of
the city without any issues. Once on the outskirts of the city, we followed a
rural path along a canal. The path took us past vibrant green rice paddies and
some enticing-looking eateries. With its stunning ruins, Ayutthaya was the
perfect place for us to spend the night. We found a beautiful old wooden
schoolhouse with extensive grounds where we could stay.
The
following day was spent exploring the ruins and eating our way through the day.
Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350.
Having an ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago,
Ayutthaya was Asia's trading capital, a testament to its strategic importance.
By 1700, it had become the largest city globally, with one million inhabitants.
Unfortunately, the city's glory day ended abruptly when it was invaded by
Burmese forces in 1767, almost wholly raising the city to the ground. Today,
these ruins stand as a poignant reminder of its past, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site that we were privileged to explore.
18
June - Ayutthaya - Lopburi – 63 km
The
weather was moderately overcast at about 30-34 degrees Celsius, making our
second day of riding another perfect day. Thailand is littered with fascinating
sights and first up was an elephant kraal. The elephants and mahouts were
preparing for a day of tourist rides, and the elephants were dressed in their
Sunday best. As we cycled past, I couldn't help but feel a sense of admiration
and respect for these majestic creatures. It was a reminder of the beauty and
diversity of the natural world, a stark contrast to the bustling city we had
left behind.
Next
up was a bizarre, if not kitsch, temple sporting a humongous dragon or dragon
tail surrounding the entire property. A multitude of small paths led to
Lopburi, making it an enjoyable day out on the bike. En route, a kind lady
flagged us down and handed us a bag of bananas, a gesture of hospitality that
warmed our hearts and kept us going through the day. In the countryside, it's virtually
impossible to pass villages unnoticed and slacked-jawed locals and
nervous-looking kids and dogs observed us from a distance, a reminder of the
curiosity and friendliness of the locals.
Our
way led past gigantic Buddha statues, incredibly ornate temples, bamboo
forests, and, of course, the ever-present carts selling exotic nibbles.
Once
in Lopburi, the popular Noom Guest House lured us in and once settled in, we
explored the town's many attractions. Lopburi is an ancient town with abundant
old ruins that are all within comfortable walking distance. However, today, the
old city is occupied by ordinary Thai life and a gang of monkeys. A visit to
the Monkey Temple left me in awe of how similar monkey family life is to ours,
and I could spend hours observing them.
Tania
took to life on a bike like a fish to water, as no sooner was her shirt washed
than a line was strung.
19
June - Lopburi – Pak Chong – 103 km
In a
haze of smoke from breakfast BBQs, we departed Lopburi, a far more substantial
town than expected, as the well-visited touristy area was in the old part.
It
took forever to clear the city limits. Eventually, our chosen route led along
farm tracks, a beautiful stretch through the countryside dotted by tiny
hamlets. Sadly, our rural road spat us out on the highway, which shocked us as
the traffic was terrible. The way was hilly as we biked over the pass in the
midday heat. However, all uphills come to an end. Eventually, we descended into
Pak Chong, reaching almost 60 kilometres per hour. Clouds gathered, making it a
considerably cooler ride towards the end of the day.
Pak
Chong signalled the end of the day's ride, mainly because of the sight of
washing machines. I desperately needed them as I hadn't done any laundry since
departing Bangkok, and even the stray dogs kept their distance. The dogs
appeared to respond well to the word "voetsek" as they retreated to a
safe distance if uttered with enough conviction.
20
June - Pak Chong – Starwell Bali - 107 km
From
our cosy overnight accommodation, the way led past many statue-making areas,
each displaying Buddhas in all shapes, sizes, and colours. The air was filled
with the sweet scent of exotic fruit as we pedalled past villages, their homes
nestled amidst luminous green rice fields. The most unexpected sight was an
elephant, patiently waiting for a ride at the bus shelter—truly a unique
encounter, only in Thailand!
Once
again, a secondary road led us through farmlands, but our path took an
unexpected turn into a muddy track. Later, the trail, to our surprise, petered
out completely, leaving us with no choice but to backtrack to the main road.
This unexpected detour, however, added a sense of adventure to our journey.
Tania
and I, not particularly interested in the city of Nakhon Ratchasima, decided to
give the town a wide berth. In doing so, we encountered comfortable
accommodation consisting of wooden chalets amidst lush greenery.
21
June - Starwell Bali – Phimai - 60 km
"Did
you see the weather?" Tania asked, frowning, as we emerged to bucketing
rain. Mercifully, the weather soon cleared, making it a short and pleasurable
ride to Phimai to explore Prasat Hin Phimai, one of Thailand's biggest and most
important religious sanctuaries. Our abode of choice was the Phimai Paradise
House, a lovely hostel revealing wooden floors and high ceilings.
Once
settled, the ruins beckoned us to explore, and our efforts were richly
rewarded. Dating back to the 11th–12th century, this town must've been a
significant hub in its day. Inscriptions discovered on one of the doors
revealed that the city has existed since the ancient Khmer Empire. The most
intriguing part was that these temples were constructed a century earlier than
Cambodia's strikingly similar Angkor Wat. The town of Phimai stands as one of
the furthermost western outposts of the Khmer Empire's holy highway. I found
all this incredibly fascinating and was thrilled that we had made the detour.
After
inspecting the ruins, we biked to Sai Ngam, a 350-year-old Banyan tree.
Returning, we stopped at the night market and found a wide variety of food,
including surprisingly delicious ant salad.
22
June - Phimai
Phimai
was a charming and relaxed village, so we decided to extend our stay for
another day. The morning was perfect for a jog, and I enjoyed exploring the
area on foot. However, my joy was short-lived, as dengue fever drained me of
all my energy and reminded me of the challenges that come with this disease.
The
rest of the day was spent catching up on outstanding chores, such as organising
and reorganising photos, doing laundry, and making a few long overdue phone
calls.
During
my walk, I had the pleasure of meeting the town's retired photographer, who was
78 years old and still passionate about photography. He had an impressive
collection of antique cameras, and we had a delightful conversation. He
insisted I take a photo of him with a self-portrait he had taken 50 years ago
in the background. It was a touching moment that reminded me of the rich
history and stories that every place holds.
Before
I knew it, the day had passed, and it was time to explore the night market.
23
June – Phimai – Ban Phai – 119 km
Getting
away early, coupled with the cloudy weather, made for relaxed pedalling. Our
route took us through the rural areas of northern Thailand, passing by many
small villages, each of which had a temple and a herd of buffalo.
We
followed a dirt path to a unique community of silk weavers, where we witnessed
women weaving silk threads by hand. They didn't speak English, but they were
eager to show us their craft. The rest of our day was filled with scenes of
women cutting reeds, which we learned were used in weaving sleeping mats.
As
we continued our journey, the landscape around us started transforming.
Adjacent to the tarmac was a no-man's land that was bustling with activity,
with villagers harvesting lotus flowers and seeds. We were surprised to stumble
upon bee farming just before Ban Phai. Vendors lined the streets, selling honey
and honeycombs. Despite its size, the quaint village of Ban Phai boasted a
modern hotel, where we settled in for the night. We wasted no time in heading
to the mobile food carts to get our daily fix of noodle soup.
24
June - Ban Phai – Khao Suan Kwang – 115 km
It
rained heavily all night, but the weather cleared up by early morning,
providing a refreshing ride to Khao Suan Kwang. Here we stumbled upon a sign
midway that pointed to a King Cobra Village. We were naturally drawn to the
village and continued along a beautiful rural path. The farm trails were
perfect for an exciting bike adventure. However, my Google Map was set to
"walk" directions and led us through minor routes through people's
backyards, and at times, the route disappeared entirely. Despite this, I find
such rides exhilarating, and that day was no exception.
As
we rode, we noticed people drying thin pieces of meat in the sun, known as
"Pork One Sun," a traditional Thai recipe. The meat is left to dry
for one day until cooked. Some locals invited us to share their lunch, while
others tended to their paddy fields and buffalo.
We
were excited to visit the King Cobra Village, but it turned out to be a tourist
attraction. Unfortunately, the snakes' mouths were tied closed as they were
forced to perform. Nevertheless, the ride through the countryside was
beautiful.
After
almost 20 kilometres, we stumbled upon a "resort" that must have been
stunning in its prime but was now in ruins and neglected. Later, a 24-hour
establishment caught our attention. Although it usually only rents rooms by the
hour, we managed to negotiate a reasonable rate. Tania was shocked by the state
of the room, which had only one bed. However, the bed was enormous, and neither
of us was very large. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.
25
June – Khao Suan Kwang – Udong Thani - 68 km
Our
ride to Udong Thani was short and effortless, and it was a typical
cycle-touring day. Stopping to take a picture, a watermelon vendor surprised us
with an already-cut watermelon. It was delicious, and the lady refused to
accept any money. We felt for these generous locals, so we invested in 3-in-1
coffee sachets, which we could give in return. Of course, it’s not enough, but
still, it’s the thought that counts.
Scenery-wise,
the day was lovely; butterflies darted around as we peddled past substantial
cassava plantations and sugarcane fields. En route, we visited one of the many
monasteries, took a few pictures, and had a chat with the monks. The following
stop was a durian vendor, where Tania sampled Thailand's most famous (or
infamous) fruit.
Thai
ladies fished in large ponds alongside the way, using earthworms as bait, but
they never caught anything; maybe the fish didn't like the earthworms. Finally,
Tania joined them but was equally unsuccessful.
Afterwards,
we made our way towards the big city of Udon Thani, passing more monasteries
and lakes featuring fishing platforms that looked a tad more promising than the
ponds. We had one final stop to buy sticky rice cooked in segments of bamboo
tubes. The bamboo tubes are filled with rice and beans in coconut milk and
plugged using coconut husk wrapped in a banana leaf to keep in the steam. In
Thailand, this dish is called kao lam, but in Malaysia, it's known as lemang.
In
Udon Thani, the budget King's Hotel had a massive double room with an en suite.
I had business to attend to, and Tania wanted to stock up on stuff unavailable
in Laos.
26 June – Udon Thani, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 80 km
"I'm
bursting with excitement to go to Laos! I can't get the smile off my
face," Tania exclaimed, her voice filled with anticipation, as we cycled
past the traditional smoky breakfast BBQ stands, the aroma of grilled meat and
spices wafting through the air. We were so eager to reach Laos that we only
paused once to quench our thirst with refreshing coconut juice, the sweet
liquid cooling our throats, as we made our way to the Thailand-Laos border
control point.
Once
at immigration, a $30 visa allowed entry into the country. Reaching Laos meant
cycling across the mighty Mekong River via the Friendship Bridge. It soon
became apparent how different things could be on the opposite side of a border,
a reminder of the complex geopolitical dynamics that shape our world.
The
French influence from yesteryear was still visible, especially in the
architecture. Baguettes were in abundance, and the smell of coffee, a legacy of
French colonialism, permeated the air, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a time
long past. I withdrew 1,500,000 Laos kip, the local currency, which stretched
my wallet to nearly breaking point.
