Across
the Archipelago: Indonesia by Bicycle - Sumatra to Bali
INDONESIA (1)
5 Java, 6 Bali & 7 Lombok
1117 Kilometres – 32 Day
10
July – 11 August 2010
Photos
JAVA (2), BALI &
LOMBOK:
From Volcanoes to Paradise
JAVA
(2)
Chapter
Fourteen: Surabaya and the Road East
The
ferry from Makassar to Surabaya was a trial of endurance—crowds pressed
shoulder to shoulder, meals in polystyrene containers, and the shocking sight
of rubbish dumped into the sea at night. When mechanical issues delayed our
arrival, the chaos of unloading bikes and bags stretched into eternity. Yet
stepping onto Java’s soil at last, breathing fresh night air, felt like
liberation.
Surabaya
itself was bustling, alive with markets and curiosity. Ernest was unwell, so I
wandered alone, encountering bemused reactions to South Africa—“But you are not
black?” and “Where in South Africa? Nigeria?”—reminders of how perspectives
shift across cultures.
The
ride eastward to Pasuruan was a short 67 km nerve-wracking ride, traffic
pressing close, soot and exhaust thick in the air. Guava juice stalls offered a
sweet reprieve, and a tranquil guesthouse garden became our refuge as we both
succumbed to colds.
Chapter
Fifteen: Toward Bromo’s Fire
We
found the ride from Pasuruan to Probolinggo, flat, the tailwind gentle,
anticipation building for Gunung Bromo. At dawn, I left Ernest sleeping and
joined the throng climbing to the crater rim. The sunrise was
breathtaking—light spilling across a vast caldera, smoke rising from Bromo’s
cone, the air thick with sulphur.
For
the Tengger people, Bromo is sacred, its myths alive in annual rituals of
offerings cast into the crater. Standing at its rim, I felt the mountain’s
pulse, its legends woven into the smoke.
Chapter
Sixteen: Coastal Roads to Bali
We
pedalled eastward from Probolinggo through mangrove swamps and coastal plains; the
road was flat but chaotic with traffic. One hundred kilometres later, we
arrived in Situbondo, where we found rest.
The
next day started with promise, but a fierce headwind loomed on the horizon,
quickly dampening our spirits. The terrain was slightly more undulating, but a
shaded forest provided respite from the heat. A short ferry ride across the
sparkling Sea of Bali whisked us away to the island that promises paradise.
BALI
Chapter
Seventeen: Bali’s Contrasts
Arriving
in Gilimanuk, paradise seemed to beckon—bungalows nestled in gardens called me,
and we stayed the night.
From
Gilimanuk to Medewi Beach was short - 60 km through a national park, the road
enveloped in the green embrace of towering trees. The vibrant Balinese Hindu culture was on
full display, adorned with countless temples and shrines that punctuated the
landscape with their intricate architecture reflecting ancient practices. Medewi
Beach offered serenity, surf, and fresh food.
Bali
truly felt like a slice of heaven, with its warm tropical climate, pristine
beaches, and lush frangipani trees waving gently in the breeze. Everything
about the island sang of paradise—the surfing, the friendly locals, and the
vivid roadside stalls brimming with fresh fruits like striking red watermelons
and golden bananas.
Denpasar
demanded bureaucracy—visa paperwork for Australia and priority was to tackle
the process. The paperwork was extensive, requiring countless forms, copies,
and specific documentation. Once submitted, we waited.
Kuta
overwhelmed with tourists, curio stalls, surf boutiques, and nightlife. Yet
even amid the frenzy, joy surfaced: pizza, beer, laughter, and stories shared
with fellow travellers.
Uluwatu’s
cliffs revealed another side of Bali—raw surf culture, dramatic landscapes—but
accommodation was scarce, and we returned to Kuta, indulging in small luxuries
like a pool and balcony.
LOMBOK
Chapter
Eighteen: Lombok’s Roads and Rinjani’s Shadow
From
Padang Bai, we sailed to Lombok. Senggigi was touristy, but Senaru revealed the
grandeur of Mount Rinjani, its volcano rising above villages. Roadworks made
climbs punishing, yet children’s greetings—“Turist! Hello Mister!”—turned
hardship into delight.
Labuan
Lombok was meant to be a gateway to Sumbawa, but plans shifted. Instead, we
circled back westward, through hamlets alive with horse-drawn buggies and oxen
in rice fields, arriving in Mataram early.
Chapter
Nineteen: Return to Bali and Farewell
The
ferry back to Bali carried us once more across the strait, mats spread on deck,
Pop-Mie noodles and snake fruit sustaining us. Padang Bai welcomed us again,
and soon we cycled eastward to Amed, Lovina, and Tangerang—coastal roads lined
with rice paddies, temples, and celebrations whose meaning blurred between joy
and mourning.
Finally,
Kuta returned, this time as a staging ground for departure. Bikes scrubbed,
laundry done, gear sorted, and boxes found thanks to the kindness of a
Malaysian traveller. Excess baggage fees loomed, but relief outweighed
frustration.
On
11 August, we pedalled the short distance to the airport, whispering a final
farewell: “Selamat
tinggal dan terima kasih, Indonesia.”
