171 THAILAND
The South Coast
and Beyond – 2024
PHOTOS
THAILAND (22.2) – The
South Coast305 Km - 4 Days10 July – 20 July
2024
July 10 - Pattaya – Rayong – 62 km
I was ready surprisingly early. Perhaps
it was because I wasn’t embarking on a long journey, just a 10-day adventure
before Dawn arrived on the 20th. I couldn’t wait for her visit and the fun
activities we had planned (definitely not cycling, LOL). My time in Thailand was
drawing to a close. I didn’t want to jinx it but, hopefully, I'll be able to
leave Thailand (as much as I love it) before the year ends. Being holed up in
nothing more than a hotel room for such a long time is challenging.
As I pedalled out of Jomtien, I
couldn't help but chuckle. There's always an exhilarating feeling when I set
off towards an unknown destination, even if the area is familiar. Despite the
overcast weather, I daydreamed so much that I hardly took any pictures. Most of
my time was spent figuring out my new Garmin watch. I still don’t know why I
thought getting it was a good idea. It's too complicated, and I don't see much
difference from my inexpensive Xiaomi Redmi watch. Oh well, what's done is
done, and I'll have to make it work.
Reaching Rayong, I decided it was time
to call it a day, mainly because the Richy Grant guesthouse is cheap as chips
and provides washing machines and filtered water. Plus, there's a night market
nearby! Before heading to the market, I should have grabbed a small bite to
eat, as I returned with enough food to feed an army. The rest of the evening
was spent reorganising my panniers while eating through my mountain of food.
11 July – Rayong – Roadside guest
cottage – 85 km
The previous night, the sky put on a
dramatic show with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. As the morning arrived,
a drizzle persisted, giving me the perfect excuse to organise my belongings at
leisure.
Finally, when the rain subsided, I set
out. However, after a mere five kilometres, the rain returned, forcing me to
seek refuge at a petrol station with an Amazon Café. The day, however, took a
turn for the better, offering ideal cycling conditions with a gentle ocean
breeze and a thin cloud cover, a complete contrast to the earlier deluge.
My progress was slow as I made
adjustments every few kilometres – first, it was my watch, then the chain, and
later, the tyres. I also took advantage of the conditions and frequently
stopped to snap a few pics. It's always such a pleasure to cycle the South
Coast. Around five o'clock, I stumbled upon charming roadside cottages with
nearby shops and restaurants and thought it the perfect spot to spend the
night.
12-13 July – Roadside cottage –
Chanthaburi – 75 km
I woke up surprisingly early at six
o’clock, made coffee, and sat listening to the many birds whistling their
individual tunes. Later, I packed my belongings, said goodbye to the owner, and
continued my bike ride along the coast.
It was a rather overcast day, but
cycling the scenic route along the coast is always a privilege. Along the way,
I stopped at a few viewpoints to enjoy the views, which no doubt came with a
bit of a climb. With 20 kilometres left to go to Chanthaburi, I turned inland
and passed emerald-green rice fields, which made the ornate Buddhist temples in
the area even more striking.
When I arrived in Chanthaburi, I went
straight to the old waterfront community and checked into Laluna River House.
It's affordable at 420 THB per room and offers a lovely river view. Since I
arrived early, I spent the rest of the day eating. The following day, I spent a
super lazy day in Chanthaburi, not doing much except walking around the
supermarket and investigating the old town.
The durian, also known as the
"king of fruit" in Asia, remains, at least to me, one of the
strangest fruits. Although native to Borneo and Sumatra, it is grown all over
Southeast Asia. It is enormous, mostly 30 cm x 15 cm, and, as can be expected
from such a large and heavy fruit, it grows on large branches directly on the
trunk. It has a tough, spiky rind, which is nearly impossible to open unless
you know what you are doing. It also comes with an overpowering (unpleasant?)
odour. Despite this, it hides a soft, creamy flesh - a pricey delicacy in
Thailand. I've never bought any as they are expensive, but I love
durian-flavoured ice cream. The smell is so strong that most hotels and
guesthouses don’t allow durian.
14 July - Chantaburi – Bo Rai Resort –
83 km
I was unsure where I wanted to go, so I
followed minor roads until I reached the main road. Not feeling like spending
time on the busy Sukhumvit Road, I veered off at the first opportunity. Soon, I
found myself on a superb road heading north through dense forests. The area
seemed seldom visited, as I hardly encountered any traffic or people. I was
thus surprised and delighted to stumble upon quaint Bo Rai, which sported a
lovely hotel and a 7-Eleven.
I also heard from my dear friend, Anil
that he was in Pattaya. Since I had never managed to catch up with them when in
India, and had promised to meet them in Pattaya, I hurriedly organised a ride
back to Pattaya the following morning.
15 July – Bo Rai – Pattaya
And, just like that, I was back in
Pattaya. Seeing Anil and his friends was lovely, and we spent an evening
socialising at the Beer Garden in Pattaya.
As Dawn was arriving in four days, I
decided to stay put.
19 July – 18 August
Dawn arrived, and it was a fun month
of eating, drinking, and catching up with everyone. We spent a few days on Ko
Samet and, as always, a few days in Bangkok, where we met Luke (her son) just
before they flew home. We had plans to do much more, but the days flew by, and
very few of our plans materialised.
20 August
Once back in Jomtien, I waited for my
second bicycle to be serviced and started packing my panniers for my trip
around Asia. I packed, cleaned the room, and got rid of loads of stuff I had collected
during my stay in Jomtien—none of which I really needed and surely not anything
I’ll lug around with me on a bicycle trip.
THAILAND (22.3) – The
Road North
Jomtien – Nong Khai
28 August - 13
September 2024
1 010 Km – 16 Days
28 August – Jomtien – Khao Khan Song – 85 km
It was 28 August before I cycled out of
Jomtien. The day was anything but enjoyable, as I first had to swing by the
Immigration Office to get a re-entry permit into Thailand to avoid losing my
Non-Immigrant visa. This little procedure took the best part of two hours, and
it was 11.30 a.m. before I collected my passport and got back on the bike.
Since I didn’t have a specific route
in mind, I headed north. However, the minor roads I chose were jampacked with
trucks and construction vehicles, making them a nightmare to navigate.
Major construction is taking place in
the area, and I couldn’t find any available accommodation due to the rooms
being occupied by permanent construction workers. I continued, hoping to find
something, but eventually decided to call it a day as the traffic was downright
dangerous. It took retracing my steps to where I saw a guesthouse much earlier
in the day. Whew, it's time to look at the map again.
29 August - Khao Khan Song
Even though I say Khao Khan Song, I am
not sure it is the name of the town, village or guesthouse as everything is
written in Thai. I might have left too much in a hurry as a few outstanding
tasks remained. Fortunately, just about anything can be done online. Since I
had the luxury of a room with a chair and table as well as a veranda with a
resident cat, I thought staying put was a good idea. My online business took
the best part of the day, and once everything was done, it was already 5 p.m.
and I ambled to the supermarket for my evening meal and beer.
30 August – Khao Khan Song – Bang Khla
– 84 km
I saddled my old iron horse late in
the morning and returned to the busy main road. Luckily, the road was new and had
a generous shoulder almost as wide as the vehicle lanes. I veered off onto a
smaller route only once, but my euphoria was short-lived as the path petered
out.
I picked up a tailwind and blitzed it
to charming Bang Khla, situated on the Bang Pakong River, without being rained
on. That said, it started raining just as I cycled into town, and I pulled into
the first available accommodation, resulting in my paying a tad more than usual,
but I was rewarded with a lovely spacious room with aircon and hot water for
$14. At least I was out of the madness and looking forward to the ride north,
as there's plenty to see with a good mix of natural beauty and cultural
heritage.
While enjoying a delicious plate of
fried rice, it dawned on me that Thailand has its own table manners, similar to
other cultures in the world and, fortunately, the rules of food etiquette are
pretty simple. Spoons and forks are the main eating utensils in Thailand. Generally,
in Thai, a spoon is called ‘chon’ and a fork ‘som’. The spoon is used to put
food into the mouth, while the fork is used to scoop and arrange rice and food
onto the spoon so it doesn’t fall off on its way to your mouth. Thai people
mainly eat using a spoon and do not put a fork into their mouths. They don’t
typically use a knife much while eating Thai food, as most dishes are served in
bite-size pieces, so there is no need to use a knife.
31 August – Bang Kla – Nakhon Nayok –
90 km
In the morning, I first cycled a few
kilometres to Wat Pho Bang Khla, believed to have been built during the reign
of King Taksin the Great (between 1767 and 1782). The temple's architecture
bears the influence of the Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin-period. The most
interesting thing, though, is the temple's resident fruit bats, which reside in
the trees within the temple grounds.
Next, I visited the floating market,
which isn’t much of a floating market but rather resembles a food market on the
banks of the river. My next stop was at Wat Pak Nam Jolo, another historical temple
believed to have been built 200 years ago. From Bang Kla, a lovely ride took me
along the Bang Pakong River.
Around midday, I felt hungry and
stopped at a roadside shelter for a bite to eat. A very surprised lady quickly prepared
a delicious meal of rice and spicy vegetables topped with a fried egg. All this
happened without me speaking Thai or the lady any English. Hahaha!
Just before reaching Nakhon Nayok, I
turned off to the ruins of the ancient town of Dong Lakhon. The area dates back
from the ninth to eleventh centuries and not many remains of the structure
except a well and a moat that surrounded the city. Still, it’s a lovely area to
stroll about.
1 September – Nakhon Nayok – 50 km
I decided to extend my stay for an
extra night and ventured into Khao Yai National Park in the hope of discovering
stunning waterfalls. The park is enormous, covering over 2,000 square
kilometres. Not only is it the oldest park in Thailand, but it’s also a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
Being a beautiful Sunday morning and
the park's proximity to Bangkok, nothing came of my visions of enjoying my
7-Eleven sandwich next to a waterfall with just the soothing sounds of nature.
Still, the area is undeniably beautiful. If I ever find myself in the vicinity
again, I will cycle through one gate and exit through another - that way, I
will see far more, and I’m sure it will be less crowded.
2 September – Nakhon Nayok – Pasak
Chonlasit Dam – 106 km
I had a delightful ride along my
chosen route, which followed the boundaries of the National Park and led me
through small communities. In these communities, it seemed like all the women
were either using a mortar and pestle or cooking up something delicious in a
wok, some so potent it made me sneeze.
The road was lined with frangipani
trees and the air was filled with the smell of freshly cut grass. I didn't have
a specific plan or destination in mind, so I followed the signs to the Pasak
Chonlasit Dam. Since it was a Monday, there was only one other cyclist and a
couple from elsewhere in Thailand at the campsite. They later came and asked if
they could have a picture with me. It seems like I must make quite an
impression! LOL.
3 September – Pasak Chonlasit Dam – Sa
Kruat - 88 km
I woke up early, as the other cyclist
in the camp was up at an ungodly hour. If you've ever slept in a hiking hut,
you probably know the sound of those plastic bags. I always want to ask, “What
are you looking for?” Hahaha! Then he started listening to his music, which
must have sounded quite soothing to him as he relaxed looking out over the dam.
Unfortunately, sound travels very well in environments like that, so I was also
up at the crack of dawn. LOL.
As I cycled over the dam wall, I felt
immensely grateful to be out and heading in a direction I wasn’t quite sure
where it would lead to. My path followed the eastern shores of the dam, which
was quiet with just a few motorbikes, herds of buffalo, a snake, and a large Shongololo.
I couldn’t wish for more. At midday, I stopped for a plate of fried rice, which
is always an interesting affair due to my being a foreigner and, as they say,
“only one.”
When threatening clouds rolled in, I
called it quits at the next village, which I think is Sa Kruat, in the Si Thep
district. The reason for stopping there was twofold, as I was toying with the
idea of going to the Si Thep Historical Park in the morning, but was still
undecided.
4 September – Sa Kruat – Windy
Guesthouse. Si Thep - 30 km
I woke up early, feeling well-rested
and decided to visit the nearby Si Thep Historical Park. This archaeological
site covers the ancient city of Si Thep, which was inhabited from the third to
fifth century CE until the thirteenth century. Si Thep was one of the largest
city-states in the plains of Central Thailand. In 2023, it was added to the
World Heritage List as The Ancient Town of Si Thep.
After visiting the park, I checked
into a guesthouse across the road to do laundry and fix the slow leak in the
back wheel of my bicycle. Later, I cycled 1.5 kilometres to a supermarket and
unexpectedly got caught in a heavy downpour. I waited at a shelter for about 10
minutes before continuing to the shop in the sunshine. Weird.
There is quite a story behind my order
of fried rice tonight. When the person running the guesthouse asked if I wanted
food, I said, "Fried rice," thinking they might take orders there.
Instead, he hopped on his motorbike and travelled about two kilometres to a
restaurant to get the meal. He came back soaked but the food was still piping
hot! I felt it was fair to give him $2.5 for a $1.25 meal, as where else in the
world can you get a home-delivered meal for $2.50?
5 September – Windy Guesthouse, Si
Thep – Haus Luneburg, Phakdi Chumphon – 88 km
I first rode to Wichian Buri to buy a
new inner tube because I had discarded one and I like to keep two spares. The
people there were incredibly friendly. They not only directed me to a shop
where I could buy what I needed but also gave me two bottles of water. This was
very helpful since I ended up needing more water than I had expected due to the
heat and the steep climb.
Despite the high temperature, the ride
was amazing. I couldn’t seem to stick to a main road, and I soon found myself
on a narrow secondary road passing through small communities. After crossing
the pass, I encountered an ice cream vendor and couldn't resist buying some. It
was served with sticky rice, small scoops of ice cream, peanuts, and a dash of
condensed milk!
Fuelled by the sugar, I sped down the
road, where I came to a screeching halt at Haus Luneburg, a lovely guesthouse
with a swimming pool. I didn't waste any time unloading the bike before jumping
into the pool with a Chang beer in hand.
6 September - Haus Luneburg – Resort
roadside cottages – 103 km
Again, I was blessed with a stunning
ride. Route 2037 has been an absolute delight to cycle. My path was littered
with tiny hamlets, always with a temple, a school and a market. Midway, the
weather came in, and in bucketing rain I continued as it wasn’t cold. The rain
soon abated, and I continued until spotting roadside cottages.
Even though it was early, it looked
like more rain ahead, and I called it a day. Stopping so early also meant there
wasn’t much to do, and I did the dreaded laundry and went in search of a tap to
wash the mud from the bike.
7 - 8 September -Roadside cottage –
Khon Kaen – 110 km
I think I wore a permanent grin today
as it was yet another fantastic ride through the countryside. The weather was
great, the rice paddies were green, the corn stood high, and I counted myself among
the luckiest people on the planet. The kilometres ticked by effortlessly, and not
even the village dogs gave chase. With a stiff breeze on my back, I ambled
through numerous settlements and colourful temples until reaching Khon Kaen,
where I planned to stay for two days to do the necessary chores.
The following day, I did the laundry
at a laundromat directly outside my abode. Later, I strolled around the city
lake, a pleasant, shaded walk past numerous temples. Afterwards, I cycled to
the bike shop, which was a lovely surprise as it was well-stocked and
professional. They adjusted the gears and also fitted an odometer.
By evening, I stopped at the night
market, where I found little for vegetarians except some freshly made French
fries. Fearing it wouldn’t be enough, I also bought a pizza, which cost the
same as my room. Well, if you want to eat foreign food, it's always costly.
9 September – Kong Kaen – Roadside
cottage – 110 km
I slept surprisingly well on the lumpy
mattress, but what can one expect for 350THB? After getting up at six a.m., I
was ready to roll at 8 a.m. and found the city far more substantial than I had imagined.
The morning traffic was challenging, but I realised I was in Thailand when
drivers stopped to let me across the road. Only in Thailand!
I soon found myself amongst the rice
paddies with my music blearing far too loud. The ride was pleasant and
interesting as I came upon the holy pond at Ku Ban Na Kham Noi. I learned that
the structures surrounding the pond were used as a hospital during the reign of
King Jayavarman VII (1177-1237) of the Khmer Empire. Then, I went on to the
Cobra Village, but I didn’t linger as I didn’t think any animal wanted to be in
captivity no matter how well they were treated.
Towards the end of the day, I veered
off toward the main road, where one can find accommodation and other services. Once
there, I found the road smooth as a baby’s bottom and pushed on a further 30 kilometres,
even though I don’t like cycling on highways. When the weather came in, I
pulled into the nearest guest accommodation and was pleased to find a cute 350THB
bungalow. No lumpy mattress, and with air-con, fan, two bottles of water and
clean bedding, I called it a bargain!
10 September – Roadside cottage to Ban
Daeng - 100 km
I headed through the countryside and
came upon a multitude of fascinating sites. Shortly after leaving, the map
indicated a Monkey Park, and I investigated only to find an ordinary city park
with outdoor gym equipment and volleyball courts overrun by monkeys. LOL. I
don’t think anyone is using it, as the monkeys were a menace, and I didn’t dare
leave the bike. So, it is a very aptly named Monkey Park.
Not much further was a large lake
known as the Red Lotus Lake. I didn’t see any red lotus flowers; maybe their
time was over, or there wasn’t enough water in the lake. Still, it was a
peaceful ride along its shores and through rural villages where fishing seemed to
be the main occupation.
Thirty kilometres or so later, I
stumbled upon the remarkable Ban Chiang. The Ban Chiang Archaeological Site is
a prehistoric human habitation and burial site. It is considered to be the most
important prehistoric settlement discovered in Southeast Asia so far, marking
the beginning and showing the development of the wet-rice culture typical of
the region. The site has been dated by scientific chronometric means, which
have established that the site was continuously occupied from 1495 BC until c.
900BC., making it the earliest scientifically dated prehistoric farming and
habitation site in Southeast Asia known at the time of inscription onto the
World Heritage List.
After leaving Ban Chiang, I made my
way north toward the Laos border. My presence created quite a stir, and I had a
distinct feeling that the area was seldom visited by foreigners. This was such
a rural area that I never spotted any accommodation, and when it started
raining, I pulled into the nearest Buddhist temple, where I asked if I could
set up my tent. I was pointed to a large, covered area, and no sooner was the
tent up and the lady monks started chanting. What a pleasant way to spend an
evening.
11-12 September – Ban Daeng Temple –
Nong Khai – 62 km
At three o'clock in the morning, the
nuns were rummaging through their meagre belongings and by four, the chanting
was in full swing. LOL. I was on the road by six, I’m sure it’s a record!
My first stop was at one of the food
vendors, which is always an interesting experience. Riding was a wet affair,
but I still reached Nong Khai before midday. My abode of choice was Mud Mee
Guesthouse, a well-kept and inexpensive place right on the Mekong River. The
guesthouse also has a lovely garden restaurant and coffee shop, and I paid for
two nights as I felt tired. I did little of note for the rest of the day and,
by evening, had a beer and a vegetarian green curry at the restaurant. A
massive storm came in at night with loud thunder that shook the building! I was
mighty pleased I wasn’t camping.
I slept in and, in the late morning,
sauntered to the nearby supermarket to get a few items I may need in Laos. The
day flew by, and I did nothing but stroll along the riverfront and watch the
mighty Mekong flow by.
13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand –
Vientiane, Laos – 29 km
As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry
to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse.
Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where
checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed
a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead
of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s
the immigration office.
Pissed off, I cycled into the city,
with the result almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled
to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood.
Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and
some not.
