Thursday, 28 February 2019

CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (9.1) - A RIDE AROUND CAMBODIA - CAMERA IN HAND - MEGAN, ERMA & JANICE

 


CAMBODIA (9.1)

913 Km – 25 Days
2 February – 27 February 2019

PHOTOS


 2 February - Phnom Penh

Megan and Erma arrived in Phnom Penh late on 2 February and must’ve been exhausted after their long flight. Still, it was lovely to meet them; unfortunately, their flight landed in the afternoon, and there remained little time to do anything of note. There barely remained enough time to head to the promenade, where one could stroll along in the company of Khmers doing their daily exercises.

Phnom Penh has a wonderful location on the Tonle Sap River, which connects Tonle Sap Lake to the Mekong. The two rivers meet at Phnom Penh, making it a convenient place to watch the river flow past.

Our evening meal was at the night market, where one could pick delicacies from the countless stalls and then enjoy them sitting on mats provided for such a purpose. As expected, Erma and Megan turned in early as they departed Namibia 24 hours earlier and were, understandably, exhausted.

 

3 February - Phnom Penh

Together with my jetlagged friends, we were up at dawn. Not only to stroll towards the Royal Palace but to make the best use of the early morning light. It’s such a pleasure being out at that time of the morning. As Kipling said, “The dawn came up like thunder” while strolling past the immensely popular Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine, where people prayed for good luck. Even at such an early hour, devotees were lighting candles, and the smell of incense was already thick in the air.

We wandered the grounds of Wat Ounalom, the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. Founded in 1443, we understood the head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lived on-site. The stupa is further rumoured to contain an eyebrow hair of the Buddha.

Later, once the bikes were reassembled, Megan and Erma explored the city’s famous sights by tuk-tuk. Janice and I did a few outstanding chores, and before knowing it, time came to head to the river for a sunset cruise. Armed with a few beers, we boarded a ferry via a narrow gangplank and spent a few enjoyable hours on the river watching the sun set over this famous river.

Supper was done in true Khmer style by ordering various dishes and sharing them amongst the four of us. The frog was delicious, as were the salad spring rolls and the other dishes.

 

4 February – Phnom Penh - Koh Dock - 52 km

Preparations for Chinese New Year were in full swing as our little group pedalled out of Phnom Penh in the direction of Koh Dach, or Silk Island, situated at the confluence of the Tonle and Mekong Rivers. The route to the ferry was approximately nine kilometres. It took us through typical Cambodian suburbs, wooden houses on stilts and hand-drawn carts pulled and pushed by manpower. Greetings of “Happy New Year!” were called from doorways, and others burned paper money offerings in honour of ancestors. Temples were hives of activities as Chinese New Year was when people gifted monks with vast quantities of food.

On reaching the ferry, a short ride took us to the island known for its silk weaving. Cambodia has a lengthy silk-weaving history, believed to date to pre-Angkorian times. Albeit a dwindling art, Koh Dach was still dotted by weaving communities. On the ferry, a lady befriended us and offered to show us her home where they spun silk. We watched in fascination as they went about their trade, and were in awe of their ability to weave such intricate patterns.

A country lane circumnavigates the island, making for a pleasurable ride and an opportunity to drink coconut juice. The lady skilfully hacked open the coconuts using a machete. Once finished, we handed them back to the vendor, who cracked them open and crafted spoons from the side to scrape out the coconut meat within. The path led past small kids, giving the impression they were a tad nervous seeing four “farangs” on bicycles.

Following a light lunch of pork pau and ice cream, our slightly dusty path took us to the ferry. Unfortunately, Erma discovered her seat stem broken, and we hailed a tuk-tuk to take her to our abode. On arrival at the guesthouse, Erma and I searched for a bike shop. Still, the majority were closed due to Chinese New Year celebrations. I thought us super lucky to find a shop still open to replace the seat stem. Then, back to have a shower before returning to the night market.

 

5 February – Phnom Penh – Oudong(k) – 52 km

Leaving Phnom Penh was on Chinese New Year and in the direction of Oudonk. Getting out of Phnom Penh was surprisingly effortless, and I was impressed by how well my friends handled the horrendous Phnom Penh traffic, which can intimidate newcomers.

Soon, the hectic road spat us out on a country lane and past fascinating brick-making kilns. Our route took us past rural areas where kids still rode a “broom-horse” or played “kick the flip-flop”, the rules of which still elude me. Roadside stalls sold tamarind and lotus seeds, which were not as tasty as anticipated. But, to the surprise of one eatery owner, four foreign women on bicycles stopped and ordered noodle soup. The soup was delicious, albeit prepared using instant noodles, but they were forgiven as it was, after all, Chinese New Year.

With renewed energy, we set off and came upon the remarkable Wat Sowann Thamareach. This wasn’t a traditional temple but seemed a copy of an ancient one. The buildings were exquisite with amazing light inside; still, it appeared little known.

A country lane led to Phnom Udong, past a hill topped by spires of stupas resembling a fairy castle. The stupa on the central hill was rumoured to house the remains of past kings and once at the top stunning scenes greeted us. Such vistas seldom came without first having to ascend a few stairs. My friends took the stairs in their stride and never complained about being dragged up a hill after a day on the bike.

From Phnom Udong, a short ride took us to Oudonk which sported a few places to stay and we picked one across the road from a restaurant. So came to an end our first day of riding. Kudos to Janice, Megan and Erma, who rode like seasoned cycle tourers, never complaining even when the road was poor.

 

6-7 February - Oudongk – Kampong Chhnang – 55 km

On waking, our room had been invaded by ants. Just about the whole shebang was covered in ants, from our snacks to the towels! I dressed in a great hurry to take my panniers outside, only to discover I’d not only the proverbial ants in my pants but real ones. The pants were promptly ripped off but I was already covered in ant bites by then! Phew!

The way was unpleasantly congested, but the lack of minor roads made us continue along the highway, only turning off once to follow a rural route through the countryside. On rounding a corner, Megan slipped in the loose sand and landed herself in a ditch in a cloud of dust. Before she could dust herself off, the entire community was there to help. Mercifully, she was unhurt and apart from a dirty bum and bruised ego, all was good. Not much further, a shady coconut seller allowed a breather. The lady (as always) hacked it open so one could eat the flesh inside. Janice wanted to try the “hacking open” but nearly chopped her thumb off! Clearly, she needed a great deal more machete practice. Before we proceeded to Kampong Chhnang, her wound was cleaned and bandaged as best we could.

The Garden Guesthouse, a real traveller’s lodge, lured us in. Janice and I caught a tuk-tuk to the health care centre where they cleaned her wound and re-bandaged it. An additional day was spent in Kampong Chhnang to allow Janice to get an anti-tetanus injection and investigate the nearby floating village.

The next morning, Janice and I woke early to go to the health care centre where she received the necessary injection. Better safe than sorry. Afterwards, Janice, Megan and Erma took a boat to the floating village, and I returned to our establishment to take care of a few chores.

 

8 February – Kampong Chhnang – Ponley – 55 km

As Chhnang means pottery in Khmer, it wasn’t surprising to find pottery in the area. Our first stop was at the pottery community of Andong Russey. Andong Russey was a small settlement where pots were stacked high under stilted homes. Stopping at various home industries, we found the process fascinating and photogenic. We clicked away before waving the families goodbye and headed further north. The route continued past an old Khmer Rouge abandoned airport, a complex built by the KR with the help of Chinese engineers. I understood the airport was never used and is still in good condition. No exploring was done.

Our path followed country roads past tiny hamlets where people still pumped water from wells. En route, we stopped spotting a young man scrambling up a makeshift bamboo ladder fixed to a sugar palm tree. It seemed containers were left in the tree overnight and full ones were collected in the morning. After being offered a sip, I was initially apprehensive but found it sweet and surprisingly delicious. The juice is boiled to make palm sugar.

The route continued past rice drying in the sun and the ever-present Buddhist temples. Farmers herd cattle along dusty roads as both kids and parents looked up in surprise as four foreign women pedalled past on loaded bicycles. Even the dogs looked too surprised to give chase.

A hawker provided watermelon which the lady peeled and cut up for us to enjoy. Janice, for obvious reasons, wasn’t allowed anywhere close to the knife. The watermelon was served with a side plate of sugar, salt and chillies, a rather unusual combination.

Then, on to the tiny community of Ponley where our arrival was in oppressing heat. The heat made exhausting riding and I think all were happy to find an air-con room to unwind the remainder of the day.

 

9 February – Ponely – Kampong Luong floating Village – 35 km

Departing Ponely was in the company of krama-clad ladies on bicycles and past stalls selling fruit we’d never seen before. Milk fruit or star apple is a round purple fruit with a soft inside and a vague blueberry taste. Other shops sold sugar discs made from sugar palm juice, fermented vegetables, and dried buffalo meat. Being weekend, several wedding ceremonies were encountered. It looked as if the entire wedding party was dressed in matching, brightly coloured silk costumes.

A road sign pointed to Kampong Luong. A few kilometres later boats waited to take people to and from the floating village of Kampong Luong. Arranging to leave our bicycles at their “office” was an uncomplicated affair. We hopped on a boat past countless floating homes to a homestay. Being a floating home, space was at a premium and the owner pointed us to two teeny rooms with mattresses on the floor and much-needed mosquito nets above. Sitting on the veranda, watching life in a floating village play out in front of us, wasn’t only pleasant but an eye-opener.

It looked as if kids who could hardly walk could quite comfortably row a boat. Kampong Luong was like any other settlement and included shops, petrol stations, schools, temples, and a police station. The only difference being the whole shebang floated. More astonishing, it appeared the water was used for pretty much everything, from having a bath to doing dishes and laundry. At the same time, everything seemed to go into the water! Staying in the village was a fascinating insight into the people’s lives.

 

10 February – Kampong Luong – Pursat – 65 km

First thing in the morning, a boat taxi collected and dropped us where we stowed the bicycles. Right from the start, our route followed rural roads past scrawny white cows and ornate temples. Houses on stilts sold petrol by the litre in Coke bottles while others were de-husking rice. Makeshift shops sold water and penny line sweets; others offered noodle soup and drinks more potent than water.

The hot and dusty day left us covered in red dust and required stopping at every shop to fill our water bottles. Spotting the ice cream man, we were as excited as the village kids and fell in line to wait our turn under scores of giggles. Pursat made a welcome sight and a place where one could still find a hotel with a bathtub!

 

11 February – Pursat – Moung Ruessei – 62 km

Exploring an old and spooky brickmaking factory made an exciting start to the day while monks and their helpers collected food. Interestingly, when collecting food monks don’t say thank you. The giving of alms isn’t considered a charity; instead, the giving and receiving of alms create a spiritual connection between the monastic and lay communities. The public has a responsibility to support the monks physically. In turn, the monks are obligated to spiritually support the community—what a lovely philosophy.

In the midday heat, temples made welcome resting areas as they usually had shade and toilets. On this occasion, it turned out a fascinating monastery with boy monks. Even though the young monks were incredibly shy, we snapped a few pics. Stopping wasn’t only to fill water bottles but to sample what was available at roadside eateries. The day’s favourite was fruit, especially the sweet and tasty pineapples.

In Moung Ruessei, the Oudom Hotel, with its pristine swimming pool, made comfortable accommodation and staying thus a no-brainer. Supper was at a nearby restaurant where we met Steve, an incredibly generous Cambodian who not only bought us beer but proceeded to pay for our meal. Thank you, Steve.

 

12-13 February - Moung Ruessei – Battambang – 86 km

In anticipation of a long day of biking, we made an early start. Our route followed a secondary road, but the paved road soon vanished and turned into a rough, bumpy dirt track. Still, it remained an interesting ride past old temples and villagers going about their daily routines. An old rice mill made a fascinating stop as inside it had an array of shoots, funnels, gears and belts.

Not much further, a lady peddled grilled rats from a wicker basket balanced on her head, and one was, nervously, purchased at a mere 1000 riel ($0.25 US). Everyone tried a piece, and all agreed grilled rat was delicious and better than chicken. The meat was tender and had a faint barbeque taste. I was impressed when Megan tried a small piece, albeit under the impression it was a squirrel. After learning it was indeed rat, she politely declined one more portion of tender thigh!

Realising our chosen route would take far too long, we returned to the main road making an unnecessary 20-kilometre detour. Thankfully, a stiff tailwind assisted us en route to Banan. The excellent road cycled on came to an end, but we persevered until reaching Banan, home to an ancient hilltop temple. This Angkor-era mountaintop temple was constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries. Construction was started by King Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya Varman II (1050-1066) and completed by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). From Banan temple, a pleasurable 22-kilometre ride took us to Battambang where we bunked down at the Royal Hotel.

By morning, a tuk-tuk ride made exploring the outlying Ek Phnom temple easy. En route, we stopped at the rice paper makers to eat freshly made spring rolls and passed hardworking ironmongers. At sunset, we headed for the hills to watch a gazillion bats fly out of their cave searching for food. A truly spectacular sight.

 

14 February – Battambang – Siem Reap – By boat - 14 km

We were up remarkably early to catch the boat across the Tonle Sap Lake to Siem Reap. In the wet season, this involves a short and uncomplicated cycle to the ferry pier. However, in the dry season, the water is far too shallow, and it took a 50-kilometre tuk-tuk ride to get us to the boat. Albeit a fascinating trip, it remained an awfully long day on a boat and all were happy to reach the end of the boat ride.

A short pedal led into bustling Siem Reap. The Jiu Yan Wu Angkor Hotel was considered a bargain at $20 a twin room, including a pool and breakfast. The evening was spent in lively and touristy Pub Street where we not only ate but did a wee bit of shopping.

 

15 February – Siem Reap

The previous night a tuk-tuk with Mr Lam at $30 was organised. The tour included a morning at the Angkor temples and returning to the Bayon temple at sunset. Being in the company of Megan was a great advantage as she guided us through shooting inside temples. I will be forever grateful to her for showing me the light! By evening a bottle of wine was polished off before supper, making the evening even more fun.

 

16 February - Siem Reap

Templed out, all slept late. I went for a run, and we later met for breakfast. Then, each went off in their respective directions. The previous night’s wine gave a taste of the good life, and an additional bottle was purchased to take to the restaurant. It turned out a fun evening - so much fun was had, the bill was paid twice!

 

17 February – Siem Reap – Svay Leu temple – 67 km

After breakfast, we pedalled out of Siem Reap. It took no time at all to find a rural path leading through tiny hamlets and seldom-visited areas. Ladies carted toddlers (to school?) in homemade wooden carts. Our dirt path was shared by pot salesmen, tuk-tuks and ladies leading cattle to greener pastures. Kids sold boiled corn which made convenient snacking, after which we popped into a temple and found the monks preparing their midday meal. A few pics were snapped before continuing our ride.

Eventually, landing in Svay Leu, permission was granted to sleep at the temple. Sleeping at the temple turned out a fascinating experience as monks prepared to celebrate Meak Bochea. Meak Bochea is a religious holiday in Cambodia commemorating Buddha’s final sermon. To the villagers’ surprise, four foreigners made their way to a nearby restaurant where noodle soup was ordered following a lengthy discussion and sign language.

 

18 February - Svay Leu Temple – Preah Vihear – 98 km

I can’t say we’d a peaceful night’s sleep as the temple dogs howled the best part of the night and temple music played (what felt like) the entire night. Early morning, chickens started crowing, which also got the dogs going. I guess it was time to get up anyhow. The commotion led to an earlier than usual start, first stopping for breakfast which consisted of yet another bowl of noodle soup.

The section between Svay Leu and Preah Vihear was a longer than usual day of riding. Mercifully, the day was cloudy, making for pleasurable cycling and stopping numerous times to fill our water bottles.

There weren’t many photo stops as we stuck to the task at hand and headed to Preah Vihear. The road passed huge cashew nut plantations where these strange fruits were in the process of becoming ripe. A great deal of the way was either planted under cashew nuts or were cashew nut nurseries. Towards the end of the day, four hot, tired, dusty farangs slinked into tiny Preah Vihear, ready to devour whatever was on offer.

 

19 February – Preah Vihear – Chhaeb - 57 km

Our leisurely start was due to the previous day’s long ride. Following a breakfast of rice porridge, we continued our quest. Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple where Meak Bochea was being celebrated. Devotees brought food to the temple and monks and nuns sat on mats, enjoying the feast.

After taking a few pics and thanking the monks, we continued in the direction of Chhaeb along a somewhat desolate stretch of road. Not a great deal was happening, and good time was made, only stopping to fill our water bottles. The weather was sweltering; even motorbike salesmen pulled off to rest in the shade. The four crazy women, nevertheless, continued and reached Chhaeb relatively early.

A guesthouse provided reasonable accommodation and only a short walk to the temple where monks weren’t only chanting but where a small fanfare was in progress. We hung around, waiting for the full moon, but nothing came of our full moon photoshoot as the sky was too hazy. Megan, not surprisingly, managed to get a few brilliant shots. Returning to our abode, a street-side eatery provided beer, fried noodles and rice.

 

20 February – Chhaeb – Stung Treng – 88 km

Before leaving one more visit was paid to the temple, but it turned out already too late to get any decent pictures. Megan went far earlier and captured the best pics of the trip.

The way to Stung Treng was effortless riding and the weather was in our favour. The tarmac was excellent, and the route gently undulating, just enough to keep the boredom at bay. Loading the bikes, cycling, stopping to fill our water bottles or admiring the landscape became a familiar routine.

Our day’s ride finished in Stung Treng, where the Golden River Hotel, situated right on the river, was home that night.

 

21 February – Stung Treng – Kratie – by minivan

The stretch between Stung Treng and Kratie was 130 kilometres and offered little of interest. While considering taking a bus, our decision was made even easier when we were approached and offered a minivan ride to Kratie. The quote of $20 per person, including bicycles, was considered a fair price. Once in Kratie, a tuk-tuk ride took us to the pier, where boats departed to the river dolphin viewing. The skipper didn’t have to go far as the dolphins were playing close by, and we sat watching them in fascination.

It needs mentioning that the Irrawaddy dolphins are rare freshwater dolphins. Unlike most dolphin species with long noses and pointed features, the Irrawaddy species have a blunt nose, straight mouth, rounded tail, and fins. It’s said genetically; these dolphins are closely related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting! Although called the Irrawaddy River dolphin, I understood they are not actual river dolphins but oceanic dolphins living in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and estuaries. By now, it has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including the Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are highly vulnerable as the worldwide population appears around 7,000. One more interesting fact is they are practically blind. They have tiny eyes, lack lenses, and can do little more than distinguish between light and dark. What a fascinating world!

 

22 February – Kratie – Peace Hut – 86 km

From Kratie, we opted for the river trail. The Mekong River forms the heart of Cambodia, and 80% of Cambodians still follow a traditional lifestyle. Our route felt like a never-ending village, past people living simple lives by fishing and farming rice. The Khmers have a close connection to family and generally live together in extended families. With Cambodians loving big families, plenty of kids were running amok.

Towards the end of the day, The Peace Hut signalled the end of our day’s ride. The Peace Hut was a pleasant surprise and came with two basic nipa huts on stilts right on the banks of the Mekong River. The two rooms had mats for sleeping and a small bamboo deck to unwind and watch the river. In addition, a bamboo viewing platform was the perfect place to enjoy our nightly beer. All at $2 per person!

 

23-24 February - Peace Hut – Kampong Chan - 40 km

Shortly after departing, our path crossed the river. It then ran along the opposite bank to Kampong Cham, a short but exciting ride. The Mekong Hotel was a good choice offering $15 air-con rooms with river vistas.

The next day was spent in Kampong Cham, as it turned out a relaxed place to hang out and enjoy our last day of cycle touring. A short cycle took us to the bamboo bridge, rebuilt each year after the rainy season. The Mekong River separates Kampong Cham town from Koh Paen. However, the river becomes too shallow in the dry season for a ferry. So, the island’s residents each year build a seasonal, kilometre-long bamboo bridge.

At first, the plan was to cycle from Kampong Cham to Phnom Penh. However, the ride into the city came with horrendous traffic. Furthermore, the ride is mainly along a highway, which doesn’t make a good combination for cycle touring. We thus arranged a minivan to take us into the city, making it a more enjoyable way to end the holiday.

 

25-27 February - Kampong Cham – Phnom Penh (by minivan)

The minivan picked us up at 9h00, and with bikes strapped to the rear, it headed to Phnom Penh, where we were relieved to arrive, finding all four bikes still intact.

Megan and Erma’s last few days were spent shopping, eating, and doing a few things not done previously. However, enough time remained to re-visit the morning market, where ladies fried and steamed their respective delicacies. Through a cloud of steam, we watched early morning shoppers filling their bags or eating from the endless array of vendors where pots and pans were clanging, steaming, bubbling and sizzling.

With Megan and Erma’s bikes boxed and shopping done, they soon headed to the airport to catch their return flight to Namibia.

Saturday, 2 February 2019

CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (9) - THAILAND TO PHNOM PENH - JANICE 2019

 

CAMBODIA (9)
220 Km - 7 Days
25 January – 1 February 2019


MAP

PHOTOS 


 

25 January - Ban Phakkat, Thailand – Pailin, Cambodia – 20 km

In the morning, a short bike ride took us to the border, where we’d a breakfast of noodle soup and omelette before continuing to the immigration office. For our exit stamps, locating the departure office was surprisingly tricky. A massive and brand spanking new building loomed ahead but without a single occupied office. Instead, we were pointed to a pre-fab building where one got stamped out of Thailand. Then on to the Cambodian immigration where a 1500 Thai baht visa allowed entry into Cambodia.

Janice didn’t feel her usual energetic self as she suffered from a cold and an upset stomach. Still, she managed to make her way up the hill until reaching the first settlement in Cambodia.

A sign to the Bamboo Guesthouse lured us in. On closer inspection, it turned out to be lovely bungalows with a swimming pool and top-class restaurant, all in a beautiful setting between bougainvillaea. The price for the room was the “exorbitant” sum of $12. We happily offloaded the bikes to enjoy a day at leisure.

The restaurant served delicious food, and we couldn’t believe our luck scoffing massive plates of wholesome Cambodian cuisine, all washed down with an Angkor beer. Mercifully, we got away by paying in Thai baht as there was no ATM nearby, all making a comfortable and relaxing day, albeit its history.

Pailin is where numerous Khmer Rouge leaders came from and retreated after their fall. It’s said practically 70 per cent of the area’s older men were fighters for the Khmer Rouge but, sadly, none have yet been brought to justice.

 

26 January - Pailin - Sdao – 60 km

First thing in the morning we searched for an ATM and bought new SIM cards. Janice also bought a blanket to use when camping. Then, on spotting a pharmacy, we picked up an entire box of Royal-D – the Asian oral rehydrate.

The day was marred by rutted dirt tracks where we bounced along to the delight of kids. Water stops came with plenty of stares and it appeared a rarity to see foreign women on bicycles. However, our back road eventually spat us out on the main road from where it was easy riding to Sdao.

Roadside stalls never fail to amaze and offered, amongst other things, horseshoe crabs. The fascinating part is that the earliest horseshoe crab fossils date back roughly 450 million years! Another interesting fact is horseshoe crabs use hemocyanin to carry oxygen through their blood. Because of the copper present in hemocyanin, their blood is blue. Also present was the immensely popular grilled chicken tails and, of course, the ever-present mice, rats and squirrels.

Janice wasn’t feeling well and camping was early at a Buddhist temple in Sdao. Supper was somewhat of a disaster as I went to the shops while Janice set up her tent. I found cup noodles and the famous Cambodian baguette. Sadly, Janice found the cup noodles too spicy and didn’t enjoy the strange variety of ingredients on the baguette. It’s a tricky thing to buy food for others. Sorry Janice.

 

27 January - Sdao – Moung Ruessei – 68 km

The monks were still chanting prayers when we departed. Ladies were selling pork pau outside the temple gates in a typical Cambodian setting under a huge tree. I’d the feeling the entire community came to watch two “farangs” having breakfast. With dust swirling, our path continued along a dirt track past naked-neck chickens and bare-bum kids playing in the dirt.

While overtaken by carts carrying monks under yellow umbrellas, I realised how foreign we must seem to rural Cambodians. The cultural gap felt even more significant as I watched elderly ladies shuffling along the dusty track. In contrast, others sold beef feet or carried massive piles of hay on their heads to wooden carts. Our path was highly rural and offered sights of houses on stilts where cattle were kept in the front yard.

Having had enough of the jarring and dust, we headed to the paved road passing carts laden with pottery. Janice felt unwell and, covered in dust, Moung Ruessei came as a welcome sight. The highly comfortable Kheang Oudom Hotel sported a swimming pool and all the necessary facilities. We wasted no time dipping our dusty bodies in their pristine pool. I smiled at our fortune, sipping a Cambodian beer on one of their deckchairs.

The next day was also spent in Moung Ruessei.

I was dragging Janice to Phnom Penh to meet Megan and Erma for a month-long cycle ride around Cambodia. Both Megan and Erma hailed from Namibia. I couldn’t imagine two more contrasting countries! Namibia is a desert and the driest country in Sub-Saharan Africa, whereas Cambodia has a tropical climate. Namibia measures 825,419 square kilometres and has a population of 2,620,000. On the other hand, Cambodia only measures 189,000 square kilometres with a population of 16,382,000. In addition, the average rainfall in Phnom Penh is 1,407 mm per year, whereas Windhoek has a mere 370 mm. Megan is a talented photographer (see https://www.24atlantic.com), and Erma a pharmacist and avid hiker.

 

29-30 January - Moung Ruessei – Pursat – 62 km

A highway ran to Pursat, which didn’t make exciting riding. Janice’s backside needed a rest and the paved road made more comfortable cycling than the rutted dirt track. Nothing of interest happened along the way and we soon arrived in Pursat, capital of Pusat province. Janice once again picked up the tab for the room. A short walk led to a lively market housing a warren of covered stalls.

An additional day was spent in easy-going Pursat as Janice felt unusually tired. Pursat is an old railway town but, visiting the old railway station, we found it demolished. Later we returned to the market where the hunt was on to find cooler clothes suitable for cycling, not an easy task in Cambodia, where people are tiny. There wasn’t significantly more to do in Pusat but eat. Although several interesting restaurants and street vendors were scattered about, ordering remained problematic as our lack of Khmer and their lack of English made communication a tad difficult. Still, that’s what makes travelling so interesting.

 

31 January - Phnom Penh

Being out of time I believed it best to take the bus to Phnom Penh. I wanted to get there before Megan and Erma arrived. A room at the Golden Boat Guest House was our abode of choice. Although not the cleanest of places, the room was reasonably priced at $15.

We trundled to the waterfront in the cooler evening air and later met up with friends Dan, Chop and Teressa for a beer. It’s always a pleasure seeing them and an enjoyable evening was spent in their company.

The following day was spent wandering about town, not doing a great deal apart from visiting the central market and searching for a bike shop where Janice wanted to purchase an inner tube.

 

1 February - Phnom Penh

Jogging along the riverfront is thoroughly enjoyable when in Phnom Penh. The promenade makes a perfect running route, as it comes with grand vistas of the river as well as a sunrise. Our amble to the supermarket necessitated weaving our way through bumper-to-bumper traffic, and one can only stand in awe of drivers’ patience. Walking in the road, trying our level best not to get knocked down, was more doable than the pavement. The pavement was taken up by mobile carts, motorbikes and baguette vendors. The baguette remains a favourite in Cambodia.

Remarkably, in such chaos, it’s possible to round a corner and find a peaceful temple amidst extensive grounds and old trees. By evening, the sun set over the city, monks returned to the monastery, pigeons flew home in a golden sky, and ferries carried passengers to the opposite side of the Mekong River. Sitting on a low wall overlooking the river, we watched as a multitude of boats took visitors on a sunset cruise. Then off to the night market where a considerable selection from which to choose awaited us.

Saturday, 26 January 2019

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (18.4) - EN ROUTE TO CAMBODIA - JANICE - 2019

 

THAILAND (18.4)
334 Km – 5 Days
18 January – 24 January 2019


 

18-20 January - Jomtien – Phale Beach – 60 km

Janice landed at Bangkok Airport following a mega long flight from South Africa to Thailand. I met her at the airport and the two of us hopped on a bus to Jomtien where one could kick back, eat noodle soup on the beach and drink smoothies from the night market.

After three days of organising bikes and panniers, Janice and I finally set out in the direction of Cambodia, where the plan was to meet Erma and Megan for a month-long cycle around Cambodia.

Cycle touring comes with a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, smells and sights. This day was no different, and I thought it overwhelming for a person on their first day of riding. Even though our ride was only 60 kilometres, our route was filled with an abundance of interesting sights. The first stop was at Ban Chak Ngaeo.

Ban Chak Ngaeo is a community of Thai Chinese who still maintain their traditional lifestyle. The tiny settlement is adorned with red lanterns and comes with an abundance of old, wooden shophouses. Next was the enormous Wat Yansangwararam temple complex, set in a vast park, housing several buildings of vastly different architectural styles, well-kept gardens, and a large lake giving the area a peaceful vibe.

From there, minor roads led toward the coast where we settled for Phale Beach. A guest house right on the ocean offered a place where one could sit, wriggling your toes in the sand. No time was wasted dipping into the lukewarm water of the Gulf of Thailand. At sunset, a walk along the beach revealed fishermen preparing boats for their night at sea. Afterwards, a restaurant on the sand provided an excellent meal and a marvellous way to end our first day of the trip. The food was delicious, and we sat watching the moon rise over the ocean. Well done to Janice who did amazingly well on her first day of riding.

 

21 January - Phale Beach – Ban Phe – 60 km

Following an early morning swim, the route headed along the coast and through the Map Ta Phut Industrial Estate. The estate is Thailand’s largest industrial area and the world’s eighth-largest petrochemical hub. The day mainly consisted of riding past long stretches of idyllic beaches with practically no one in sight. Coconut juice stops were aplenty and we sat watching the ocean, eagerly digging out the soft coconut flesh inside.

Rayong was reached around midday but, being early, we continued until reaching the coastal settlement of Ban Phe. Ban Phe had heaps of accommodation as it’s the jumping-off point to Ko Samet.

The settlement is a major hub for processing seafood, primarily fish sauce and fishing boats were anchored three to four deep along the many piers. At sunset a meander led to the dock where boats carted people to and from the nearby islands. Unfortunately, Janice came down with a cold and didn’t feel well, and we thought it best to make it an early evening.

 

22 January - Ban Phe – Kung Witman Beach – 70 km

Like the previous day, our path continued along the coast. The ride was lovely as it stuck close to the ocean for the best part of the morning. It took us across bridges with scenes of numerous brightly coloured fishing boats anchored along the banks. The surprising part was finding a dedicated bicycle lane virtually the entire way.

Eventually, picturesque Kung Wiman Beach signalled the end of the day’s ride. Kung Wiman is a one-lane fishing village sporting accommodation across the road from the ocean. We’d barely offloaded our panniers before drifting in the lukewarm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Eating from a beachside eatery, the sunset made an almighty impressive display.

 

23 January - Kung Wiman Beach – Chanthaburi – 61 km

In the morning, I jogged along the ocean, a route that took me over two small hills to a lookout and then onto a tiny fishing hamlet. Returning, Janice was already packed and my run caused a late departure. Still, it became another marvellous day of bicycle touring as the road followed the coast past fish farms and more of Thailand’s idyllic beaches. Shortly after our breakfast stop, we met Kim, a cycle tourer I met on Facebook. Kim was heading in the opposite direction and after chatting for a while each headed off in our respective directions.

Janice and I continued to Chanthaburi where King Taksin rallied his troops at the back of the fall of Ayutthaya. En route, a bike shop fitted mirrors on our bicycles, a far safer way to travel. On crossing the Chanthaburi River, the River Guesthouse caught our eye. The place was reasonably priced and made a perfect spot to overnight. An amble to the night market ran via Sri Chan Road, known as Gem Road due to its lively gem and jewellery trade. The night market didn’t disappoint either and we found an abundance of food vendors from which to choose.

 

24 January - Chantaburi – Ban Phakkat – 83 km

Leaving Chanthaburi via the Historic Market, the oldest part of the city was highly interesting. Our route led along the narrow lanes, and it felt like we were transported back in time. We pedalled past old wooden shophouses, red Chinese lanterns and vendors selling fascinating eats.

It didn’t take long until finding ourselves on a rural road heading toward Khao Khitchakut National Park and the Khao Bunjob Waterfall. The way to the waterfall was far hillier than anticipated but it remained a beautiful and peaceful area. Searching for the waterfall, a Buddhist temple and a paved road were spotted on the opposite bank of the small river. Instead of retracing our steps, it made sense to look for a way across. A short saunter upstream revealed a path through the forest as well as a suspension bridge. The shortcut meant dragging, pushing and pulling the bicycles through the woods and across the suspension bridge. On the opposite bank, and to our delight, was a far easier way and we freewheeled to our original path.

However, the main road took us over a reasonably steep pass. Still, at a slow and steady pace, almost anything is possible. Shortly afterwards, a road turned off in the direction of the Ban Phakkat border. Cycling all those hills, I was eager to give Janice more uplifting news and mentioned that the road to Bam Phakkat would be more level apart from a few small humps. Janice, later, claimed this camel had at least 12 huge humps!

Ban Phakkat is a relatively low-key border crossing, and we were pleased to find a bungalow at the town entrance at 400 THB. The route was challenging, and Janice did exceptionally well to make it up and over those hills and to Phakkat.

Friday, 30 November 2018

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (18.2) - Bangkok to Phuket - Jan 2018



THAILAND (18.2)
Bangkok to Phuket
1427 Km – 23 Days
1 November – 28 November 2018



Photos


Map

 

 

 

1 November – Bangkok

Jan arrived in the afternoon, looking nonplussed following an exceptionally long flight from South Africa. As Jan needed no rest, enough time remained to walk around famous Khao San Road and do my favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The trip involved catching the late ferry to its final destination and boarding the last boat back. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather was good and the ride offered a spectacular sunset. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a constant flow of traffic and the river breeze made a welcome relief from the Bangkok heat. Our ferry passed barges carrying huge loads moving slowly upstream, and people commuting to and from work filled the boat.

On returning, we hurried to one of the backstreet restaurants to find a plate of green curry and a few Chang beers. 

 

2 November – Bangkok

Our plans of waking early never materialised, and thus mid-day by the time our exploring started. Walking the streets of old Bangkok is always a pleasure. Our meander took us past the old Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two remaining forts out of 14 built more than two centuries ago. Following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767, Bangkok was established as the new capital. Initially, Bangkok was a walled city with canals dug to act as a moat. However, the university campus, has an excellent location, right on the busy River Chao Phraya, and a walkabout revealed ruins of the old city wall.

The amulet market sported a beautiful and bizarre collection of amulets, albeit somewhat creepy. The market sold small talismans and is primarily frequented by collectors, monks and, taxi drivers. The majority of clientele appeared men looking through magnifying glasses at tiny amulets, mainly used for “good luck” or fertility. Several items appeared more ominous looking than innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few seemed downright voodoo-ish!

Before popping into one of Bangkok’s most visited spots, Wat Pho temple, home to a massive reclining Buddha, it was necessary to remove our shoes. The statue measures 46 metres long and 15 metres tall and is covered in gold leaf, an impressive sight by anyone’s standards. The reclining Buddha represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter parinirvana. On leaving the vast hall, one could purchase a bowl of coins which were then dropped in the 108 bronze bowls lining the length of the wall. Dropping the coins into the bowls made a beautiful ringing sound, and I understood the money went towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat Pho. One hundred and eight is a significant number in Buddhism, referring to the 108 positive actions and symbols which helped lead Buddha to perfection.

From there, our path followed old canals past noodle soup eateries, and we couldn’t resist sitting down to a steaming bowl of their delicious soup. Finally, our little walking tour brought us to the Golden Mound, sporting a golden stupa on top, offering stunning city views.

We set out again at sunset and sat on the pavement at small tables on equally small chairs, enjoying a plate of Pad Thai. Pad Thai, Thailand’s most famous dish: is a sweet and spicy combination of noodles, eggs, and vegetables. All washed down with a large Chang Beer. On our way home, the Blues bar was an excellent place to drink a glass of chilled red wine on the pavement, albeit at an astronomical price.

 

3 November – Bangkok

One more day was spent in Bangkok, as there was no rush to go anywhere. Our test ride was a short but pleasant trip around the Royal residence and back. The search to find a new cap was on in all earnest as my old one had fallen apart. Finally, after taking the canal ferry to the city centre, I uncovered a suitable cap, though at a hefty price. As always, central Bangkok was intriguing. Amidst the chaotic public transport network and shopping malls sat the Erawan shrine, one of Bangkok’s most famous shrines. The smell of incense hung thick in the air as devotees stopped to pay their respects.

Then back to our guesthouse using the Sky train and the river ferry. Midway through our journey, our ferry, however, came to an abrupt halt. Lacking any command of the Thai language, the affair turned out a bit of a mystery. There was little choice but to follow the other commuters and abandon our ride, leaving us to make the rest of our journey on foot. Fortunately, a pleasant walk led along the river and through the flower market, laughing at our odd situation. We still couldn’t figure out why we were so promptly dumped by the side of the river. Our walk back took us past the second-hand false teeth salesman, and I was surprised to note the false teeth and bridges were slowly becoming less. (I’m not kidding you)

Back at our digs, beer was enjoyed watching the sunset from the roof terrace of the Riverline Guesthouse.

 

4-5 November – Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 80 km

Finally, the time came to start cycling, and what a delightful day it turned into. Being a Sunday morning, the traffic was light, allowing us an easy escape from hectic Bangkok. Our route followed the Prem Prachakon canal giving a little insight into the daily life of the Thai people. With that, it was weekend people were in a laidback mood, fishing or paying their respects at the temple. Others were preparing rice paddies or peddling their wares by motorbike.

We slowly made our way past modest houses on stilts, bright green rice fields and welcoming villagers. Men proudly showed off their fighting chickens, and narrow, ramshackle makeshift walkways led to homes on the opposite side of the canal.

Shortly before reaching Ayutthaya, a short detour went to the Bang Pa-In Palace, built on an island in the Chao Phraya River. The palace dates back to the 17th century and revealed a rather amusing history, at least to me. The story goes: the illegitimate son of King Ekathotsarot, King Prasat Throng, constructed the palace. King Ekathotsarot was shipwrecked on the island and fathered a son by a woman who befriended him (it’s an age-old thing in Thailand). The son became king, maybe merely of the island!

Just ahead of Ayutthaya, our path ended abruptly at a river, but fortunately, a ferry took pedestrians across. Once in town, Baan Lotus Guesthouse, an old schoolhouse, made a comfortable stay. I was surprised and at the same time, immensely impressed the owner remembered me. She was of advanced age but still as sharp as a pin.

Our lack of lunch left us starving and sent us rushing to a nearby restaurant.

The next day was spent exploring Ayutthaya’s ruins. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. The city enjoyed an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago and soon became Asia’s trading capital. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city globally with 1 million inhabitants. All this came to a swift end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and practically raised it to the ground. The ruins are today a UNESCO world heritage site.

The perfect weather made for a sunset boat ride on the river surrounding Ayutthaya, disembarking at a few temples and ending the trip at the night market.

 

6 November - Ayutthaya – Lopburi - 67 km

Following breakfast, Jan and I biked out of Ayutthaya and slowly made our way into the breeze towards Lopburi. A quick visit to the elephant kraal left me depressed. I thought it sad to see those magnificent animals chained and trained to do elephant rides. Baby elephants had nowhere to run or play, and their mothers looked agitated.

The path ran past bizarre temples and farmers working in the fields. Shortly before Lopburi, a sign pointed to a 300-year-old rubber tree as well as a boat museum making an interesting stop. A kind man offered to show us around. He explained the uses and names of the many wooden boats on display in broken English. Monks used some in their daily food collection and others for fishing. The king apparently used the near 300-year-old dragon boat look-alike powered by 12 rowers.

Then on to Lopburi, where Noom Guesthouse (where I usually stay) was fully booked. They pointed us to the Nett Hotel, a sister hotel around the corner. The rooms revealed permanently closed windows as the monkeys forced their way in, even with bars fitted to all the windows. Cute as they were, they could be quite a menace.

Once our exploring was done, food and beer were at the Noom Guesthouse restaurant. I was thoroughly impressed by the owner who not simply recognised me but mentioned that I departed without collecting the key deposit staying there nine months earlier (in the company of Janice and Chris). I couldn’t recall the occasion, but the money was duly deducted from our bill. How fantastic is that!

 

7 November - Lopburi – Suphan Bhuri - 100 km

“Good morning,” Jan called as he walked past my room earlier than usual. The monkeys causing havoc on the tin roof must’ve woken him early. Breakfast was sitting on the pavement outside the 7-Eleven, and then, dodging monkeys, we cycled out of Lopburi. A tailwind made pleasant and effortless riding along the smallest of rural roads.

Villagers were selling tiny dried fish, while others were drying rice or fishing in the canals. A great deal of rural life in Thailand revolves around rice, and farmers were preparing rice paddies, while others were busy planting or harvesting.

At midday, a delicious and sweet watermelon, from a roadside stall made a perfect lunch. Not a great deal further, a sign pointed to a Buffalo Village. It turned out a resort offering bungalows and an insight into rural Thai life.

Though a pleasant day of biking, the distance was slightly longer than anticipated. Maybe too much time was spent zigzagging through the countryside. Once an abode was located, we headed straight to the nearest restaurant.

 

8-9 November – Suphan Buri – Kanchanaburi – 115 km

In the morning, our path proceeded through farmlands in the direction of Kanchanaburi. Weaving our way through hamlets and past vast areas of wetlands, farmers, water buffalo, and cows with long ears all looked up in surprise as we biked past. It appeared a rarity seeing farangs on bicycles.

I was pleasantly surprised to see communities declaring war on aquatic weed, threatening to choke their waterways. Water hyacinth is considered one of the most dangerous invasive plant species worldwide. Innovative Thais were drying this weed and creating water hyacinth handicrafts, such as woven bags and baskets.

The road led past a string of ornate Buddhist temples, rice fields, and duck farms.

The Don Chedi Monument, dedicated to King Naresuan the Great’s victory over Burmese forces, made a surprise stop. It’s said in 1592, King Naresuan the Great defeated Phra Maha Upparacha, leader of the Burmese army, in a fierce royal duel on elephant back. I wondered how fierce a battle could be on elephant back?

Hundred and fifteen kilometres later we reached Kanchanaburi, made famous by the legendary bridge over the River Kwai. Kanchanaburi was a pleasant town on the banks of the Kwai river. Basic A-frame bungalows, right on the river, provided accommodation perfect for spending a day at leisure and visiting the bridge and graveyard.

 

10 November – Kanchanaburi – Samut Songkram – 117 km

An early start made easy cycling as country lanes followed the Mae Klong River the best part of the morning. Our narrow path twisted and turned through rural areas and past impressive-looking temples. Wat Tham Suea, situated on a small hill surrounded by bright green paddy fields, made a pretty picture. Shortcuts brought us face-to-face with surprised farmers and equally surprised kids. Even village dogs seemed too overwhelmed to give chase.

En route to Samut Songkram the Amphawa floating market made a fascinating detour. The market offered a large variety of food, and one could nibble on all offered. Finally, we returned to the bicycles and onto Samut Songkram where the night market was already in full swing. It’s impressive the amount one can eat when travelling by bike.

 

11 November - Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 123 km

Samut Songkhram was home to the Maeklong Railway Market where the warren of stalls spilt over onto the railway line. As the train approached traders hastily packed up produce and canopies, allowing the train to pass. Once passed, everything went back into place in record time and trade continued as if nothing happened.

From our hotel, a ferry took pedestrians across the river, allowing easy access to country lanes and a scenic route close to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. The scenic road led past large salt farms and now and again, information boards provided interesting titbits on our surroundings. I found it fascinating that roughly 50 different species of birds from as far afield as Alaska and Siberia flew to these salt pans to nest and breed. That’s one heck of a long way to fly. Although I kept an eye out for the spoon-billed sandpiper, I didn’t spot any.

The path was littered with temples and crab vendors, frequented by city folk on a relaxing day out. Fishing boats were lying three-deep in rivers, and the smell of dried fish hung heavily in the air as we cycled past large bamboo drying racks.

Once in Hua Hin, Bird Guesthouse revealed rooms on stilts over the water and it became our establishment of choice, and a great place to put your feet up, cold beer in hand.

 

12 November – Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot Beach - 50 km

A cycle-path led out of Hua Hin, providing leisurely riding out of town. However, as cycle paths can be a tad predictable, we turned off and headed to the coast. Our route remained along the coast past Pranburi Beach. Following a coconut juice stop, the way veered in the direction of Sam Roy Yod Beach where budget rooms were hidden along a sandy lane.

 

13 November - Sam Roi Yot Beach - Prachuap Khiri Khan – 78 km

Early morning a stunning sunrise included fishermen and women going about their business that provided excellent photo opportunities. Next, a short and pleasant ride took us to Sam Roi Yot National Park famous for its cave temple. Next, a boat ride took us around the headland and after a steep walk up the mountain, we came upon the Phraya Nakon Cave. A hole in the cave ceiling allowed light to shine onto the temple, making great photo opportunities.

Then back down the mountain and onto the bikes from where a picturesque ride took us to Prachuap Khiri Khan. Bunking down at Maggie's Homestay was interesting for the people. A walk to the night market provided enough choices to satisfy even the pickiest eaters. Smiling at our fortune, we sat on the boardwalk railing eating our food, looking out over the ocean.

 

14 November - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan Beach – 101 km

The road to Bang Saphan ran along the coast, a relaxed and lovely ride. Scenes of beachside settlements and low-key beach resorts tucked away behind palm trees, and bougainvillaeas were the order of the day. Our path twisted and turned through coconut plantations until reaching our destination at Bang Saphan Beach. Supper at a beachside restaurant sealed another fabulous cycling day in Thailand.

 

15–16 November - Bang Saphan Beach – Wua Laen Beach – 100 km

A beautiful sunrise greeted us, something I never seem to tire of and after breakfast, Jan and I set out on one more stunning ride along the coast. The day slipped by as an amble took us south past idyllic beaches and through rubber tree plantations. The route continued across numerous rivers where colourful boats lay side by side, ready to go fishing when the tide came in. Seabeach Bungalows made perfect overnight accommodation, and soon we plunged into the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. A pleasant evening was spent enjoying supper in the company of guests from Seabeach Bungalows. The next day was spent on Wua Laen Beach, unwinding and doing the usual rest day chores.

 

17-18 November – Wua Laen Beach – Ranong – 144 km

We waved the Gulf of Thailand goodbye in the morning and headed over the hills to the Andaman coast. The initial plan was to overnight in Kraburi, 80 kilometres away. Still, Jan was on fire and aided by a tailwind, we sped right past Kraburi and onto Ranong. Jan's pace made the members of a private bicycle tour think we were e-bike assisted!

Once over the central cordillera, the mountain chain from Tibet through the Malay peninsula (only a few hills), a quick stop was made at the Kra Isthmus. The Kra Isthmus is the narrowest part of the Malay Peninsula in southern Thailand and is bordered to the west by the Andaman Sea and to the east by the Gulf of Thailand. Between the Kra River and the Bay of Sawi near Chumphon, the narrowest part was a measly 44 kilometres.

The Andaman coast was hillier but beautifully lush and green. The road passed waterfalls and densely wooded areas until reaching Ranong, where we bedded down at the well-priced Asia Hotel. Feeling lazy in the wake of our mega-long ride the previous day, Ranong made an excellent spot to have a rest day and do the regular rest day chores.

 

19 November - Ranong – Bang Ben Beach – 59 km

After a leisurely start and breakfast from a 7-Eleven, it was a pleasant surprise to land ourselves on a brand-new bike path leading out of Ranong. Our first stop was at the grassy hill tourist attraction, with a temple and steps to the top. So unusual is it in Thailand to see a grassy hill; it has become a tourist attraction.

Later we continued to Bang Ben Beach, a settlement 10 kilometres off the road. Again, Wasana Resort made perfect digs. A leisurely cycle took us to the fishing harbour and a nearby beach. We returned shortly before dark and the ideal time to settle, cold Chang in hand.

 

20 November - Bang Ben Beach - Khura Buri – 83 km

Departing sleepy Bang Ben Beach was after a hearty breakfast, following which we set off anew. A relaxed bike ride led past large and tropical-looking rivers sporting an abundance of birdlife. Roadside eateries provided more than enough to eat and drink, and monks and monkeys kept us entertained en route to Khura Buri. The overcast day made pleasant biking as the road proceeded south over the hills. In Khura Buri, bungalows at Tararin Resort consisted of rickety wooden structures on stilts right on the Nang Yon River. It started raining, and a break was made to the nearest restaurant, and we managed to get back without getting soaked.

 

21 November – Khura Buri – Happy House, Khao Lak – 98 km

The previous night’s rain made a lovely, fresh morning ride as our path took us over more hills in the direction of Khao Lak. Once again, passing a multitude of colourful temples and various interesting markets.

It started drizzling, but our plastic raincoats soon became too hot and uncomfortable, and better to get wet. Finally, the rain cleared around midday and turned into a casual ride into touristy Khao Lak. An abode in a garden setting close to the beach at 400 THB was considered a bargain in Khao Lak. The sunset was watched from the beach, enjoying our beer and watching fishermen cast their nets. A simple pavement restaurant provided an inexpensive but tasty supper.

 

22 November - Happy House, Khao Lak – Villa Viking, Patong Beach – 112 km

Sadly, this was our last day of riding to Phuket. The way to Patong Beach, Phuket, was hilly, no matter which route one picked. Still, it remained a fascinating ride, past villagers making cigarette paper from dried palm leaves and mobile carts selling sugarcane juice. The sugarcane helped churn our way over the last few steep hills to Patong Beach.

It isn’t easy to find budget accommodation in touristy Patong. Still, we located Villa Viking, a guesthouse offering large, clean air-con rooms at 600 THB.

By evening a short walk brought us to the famous or infamous “walking street”- a lively pedestrian street jam-packed with bars and dance clubs. We’d a few beers staring, slack-jawed, at what was playing out in front of us.

 

23 November – Phuket

A bus ride took us over a steep hill to Phuket town in search of a bike box, found at the second bike shop. Then box and all, we got back on the bus to Patong Beach.

 

24–26 November – Patong Beach, Phuket

Too soon, the time came for Jan to catch a taxi to the airport, ending our ride from Bangkok to Phuket.

Au revoir, my friend.