CYCLE TOURING THE USA (2) - PART ONE - SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO

USA (2) PART ONE

SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO

8 173 Kilometres – 134 Days
22 MAY – 1 OCTOBER 2014

PART ONE
SEATTLE - SAN FRANCISCO
22 May - 22 June
1700 Km - 31Days

 

Washington Photos 

Oregon

California

 

 

Washington

22 May – Seoul, South Korea - Seattle, Washington, USA

My flight from South Korea landed in Seattle USA, just as the sun started peaking over the horizon. The early morning light was amazing, and water and forests, a beautiful sight, surrounded the city. The remarkable part was arriving in Seattle before leaving Beijing, China. Dead tired, I collected my luggage, hailed a taxi and headed to downtown Seattle. We first swung by the bike shop to drop the bicycle and then searched for the hostel booked. Discovering my backpack, containing all my valuable items, was left in the taxi, no doubt, put me in a flat spin, to put it mildly. Yellow Taxi Cabs had a lost-and-found section, but I only left my details as I’d no phone number, car registration number or name to give them.

A snooze was called for as I never slept a wink during the flight. On waking, I discovered the lost bag placed on my bedside table. Happy dance! It must be mentioned, the taxi driver was the sweetest Somali guy, and we chatted non-stop during the ride from the airport. I knew if someone were going to return the bag, it would be him. So, a massive thank you to this unknown Somalian taxi driver.

 

23 May - Seattle

The next day was to explore the city as I’d a day or two to kill while the bike was serviced. The cycling maps ordered would also take a few days to arrive. Seattle had a lovely waterfront and market area and a delightful old town that made a pleasant stroll.

Following the obligatory cup of coffee at Starbucks, REI was up next. Big mistake as the store was quite marvellous. They had nearly everything a person could need for the outdoors, and all looked good quality stuff. I soon discovered it was pretty impossible to leave without buying something - this time, a solar panel to charge my growing number of devices.

 

24 May - Seattle

No maps came, but the bicycle was ready and not simply did the shop thoroughly service the bike but they also fixed the broken front rack. A Garmin North America map could be bought from Best Buy located on the opposite side of town. In the process, I got to ride all kinds of public transport. Purchasing the map was easy, and all one had to do was download the map from the internet; easy — famous last words.

 

25 May - Seattle

I was lucky to meet up with Mike (a 365-project friend), and we sauntered to the folk festival. Later, we walked up the hill to get a few night shots of the city skyline. Thanks, Mike.

 

26 May - Seattle

Getting itchy feet, I was keen to get going, but it would be a waste of money leaving without the maps ordered so I, stayed one more day.

A fascinating underground tour kept me busy. Way back in the 1800s, Seattle was a low-lying city built upon tidal flats whose streets were regularly flooded. Eventually, the town council raised the street level by building retaining walls, increasing the city level by one story. It’s underneath these streets where the morning was spent.

I later learned the maps had arrived a day earlier, but no one told me and I never asked. Silly me!

 

27 May - Seattle – Shelton - 80 km

Boarding the ferry that took passengers from Seattle to Bremerton was with great excitement as it was my first day on the road in the mighty USA. Unfortunately, not a significant distance was covered as it was already late upon reaching Bremerton.

From Bremerton, Route 3 headed south. The scenery was sublime and entirely unfamiliar, featuring tall pine trees and a snowy mountain backdrop. Even though not warm, the sun was out, and a pleasant day was spent pedalling to Shelton.

Being Memorial Day, the fascinating thing was that practically every village passed had a festival of fete of sorts, complete with corn dogs and lemonade. This was the USA, after all! Shortly before historic Shelton, a campground lured me in, a good choice as it provided a nearby food store.

 

28 May - Shelton – Centralia - 120 km

I emerged to a drizzle that lasted all day. Although cold, the ride remained beautiful, past small settlements resembling movie sets.

Centralia, dating to the 1800s, came as a pleasant surprise and revealed a historic downtown. Tiny Centralia was a delightful place where camping was behind a motel. With a food store nearby, the hotel made perfect camping. These places were fascinating as there were many homeless, disabled, drug addicts or mentally ill people. However, they were all exceedingly kind and eager to help wherever possible.

 

29 May - Centralia – Longview - 115 km

The next morning, a cycle through town revealed old murals and buildings after which the route took me out of town. The day turned out great as the sun shone, and the vistas were magnificent. At the same time, the path proceeded past a multitude of villages.

Towards the end of the day, and upon reaching Longview, home to the Cowlitz Indian Tribe, a motel was the single option. Unfortunately, Longview had no camping, and a motel was a blessing as the weather became freezing.

 

Oregon

30 May - Longview – Fort Stevens State Park - 115 km

From Longview, Route 4 followed the Columbian River, which turned out part of the historic Lewis and Clark Trail, both a cycle and hiking trail. The path followed the river until reaching Cathlamet from where one could cross the Columbian river to the state of Oregon. Crossing the river was in two parts, first by bridge to the island in the middle of the river, and then by ferry to Westport.

Cyclists met while crossing the river advised about state camping on the outskirts of Astoria, and heading there, was thus, a no-brainer. In addition, Astoria had an excellent tourist information which provided good information about the route and camping further south.

Once stocked up, I set out in the direction of the park. The park was vast and immensely fascinating, and not merely was the park the breeding ground of the snowy plovers, but it hit used remains of an old fort, a shipwreck, as well as hiking and biking trails. Soon, the other cyclists I met earlier arrived, and by evening a big campfire was made, both to keep warm and to socialise.

 

31 May - Fort Stevens State Park – Nehalem Bay State Park - 70 km

After packing up, I waved goodbye to the other cyclists and set off in the direction of the next state park. These parks were quite fantastic as they had Hike & Bike sections where one could camp at a mere five or $6. This suited me fine, as I’d no intention of rushing down the coast.

The day’s ride was stunning, and the views quite spectacular. Reaching Nehalem Bay was in good time, where the tent was pitched, and one could laze about the rest of the day. The park was located along a sandbank between the ocean and the Nehalem River and offered popular beach horse rides. Later, the other cyclists (Lam and Jeffry) arrived and a fire was made again to keep warm and heat supper.

 

1 June - Nehalem Bay State Park – Cape Lookout SP - 62 km

Following the coast brought many remarkable sights. Shortly after stopping at The Three Graces or Crab Rock, Garibaldi made an excellent opportunity to grab a bite to eat. This small settlement had a whole host of fascinating things.

Even though stopping gazillions of times, Cape Lookout SP was reached early. The park had a few hiking trails leading to a lookout which kept me busy the rest of the day.

 

2 June - Cape Lookout SP – Pacific City - 30 km

First thing in the morning, the road climbed up and over the hills to Pacific City. Once in town, and while filling up my water, a super-friendly guy started a conversation, and we chattered for a while. He turned out the Pacific Inn owner, and no sooner was I ensconced in a lovely room, free of charge! Not only was I generously given a place to stay, but the staff offered to do my laundry, and I hoped this kind offer wasn’t due to me reeking to high heaven.

The rest of the day was spent charging devices and chilling out watching TV. What luxury! By evening, I considered it time to do the American thing and eat at a traditional pub featuring country music, beer on tap and burgers. Oh, my word, what’s with the massive portions?

 

3 June - Pacific City – Beverly Beach SP - 70 km

Not thinking I would see Lam and Jeffry again, I was surprised to find them shortly beyond Pacific City, slowly crawling up a long hill. We cycled together, had coffee at McDonald’s, and shopped at a small grocery store. Afterwards, we agreed to meet at the next Hike & Bike and we hence proceeded at our own pace.

The stretch to Beverly Beach was short but exceptionally scenic, past Neskowin Beach, Boiler Bay, Pirate Cove, Rocky Creek and Devil’s Punchbowl.

 

4 June - Beverly Beach SP – Jessie M Honeyman - 70 km

Lam and Jeffry wanted to visit the bike shop the following morning, and I continued south. Spotting a fudge shop, a place no cyclist ever cycles past, two large pieces were purchased. While outside the shop, devouring one, the owner presented me with one of her famous chocolate brownies, neatly wrapped. Was that super kind or what? And I assumed capitalism was indeed dead!

 

5 June - Jessie M Honeyman - Bullards Beach - 112 km

From Jessie M Honeyman, an undulating coastal road led to Bullards Beach. The Oregon coast was picturesque and even more so with a tailwind. A few cyclists were already set up by the time I slinked into camp. Unfortunately, the wind was super strong, and two of my tent poles broke while pitching the tent in the high wind. Fortunately, other cyclists could help to repair it.

 

6 June - Bullards Beach – Gold Beach - 100 km

Flying out of Bullard’s Beach was with the aid of a 45 km/h wind, confirming cycling south was a good idea. Gold Beach, situated along the Rogue River, was so named following the discovery of gold in the river’s mouth in the mid-1800s. Unfortunately, the wind was howling, and best to give camping a miss as I didn’t entirely trust the tent in the strong wind.

A short walk led to a grocery store as well as a laundry where Steve, a remarkably fascinating man, was busy doing laundry. He appeared homeless, travelling by bicycle much like me, except I wasn’t interesting. His bicycle wasn’t a touring bike but appeared a “trick bike” with which he pulled a trailer stacked with three crates. He was the kindest person one could imagine and offered me his last washing powder, so I didn’t have to purchase any from the machine. How kind is that?

Returning, a store selling peculiar bits and bobs lured me in and, to my surprise, I uncovered a pack of tarot cards. I lost mine ages ago and couldn’t believe they were sold in this tiny village.

 

7 June - Gold Beach – Crescent City - 116 km

The next morning, en route to Crescent City, I again ran into Steve, who was busy collecting cans. He quickly offered me a muffin he had bought earlier and gave me a beautiful feather, something which nearly made me burst into tears. Still, the fact he remembered my name, impressed me most.

We chatted a while before I waved him goodbye, leaving him to his job of collecting cans. A short distance further, the route crossed the state line into California. It led past farmlands and small settlements, and I was surprised to meet a cyclist on his way north. Riding north meant he was into the prevailing wind, and not simply did he have a huge load but a crate (instead of a handlebar bag) holding a puppy. The little thing looked quite happy sitting there, enjoying the scenery. In Crescent City, and enquiring about camping, the closest was a wild camp without water or facilities. The next one seemed too far away - a perfect excuse to find a room.

Interestingly enough, just like most towns cycled through, tribes inhabited this region. Sadly, foreign trappers, settlers and gold miners reached the area in the mid-1800s, robbing them of their land, like in parts of Africa and Australia.

 

California

8 June - Crescent City - Palm Café & Motel - 70 km

Shortly after Crescent City, a cyclist was parked by the side of the road. She wasn’t merely equipped with four panniers but also a trailer, home to two dogs. I could barely get myself up the hills, let alone pull a cart and two dogs!

It became a beautiful day of cycling - the sun was out, and the route headed through forests and from time to time along the coast. Still, the area remained undulating and included one big(ish) climb. My legs felt tired, and though cycling days were short, there were no rest days since departing Seattle.

Later I ran into Casy, whom I’d met previously. We chatted a while and I decided to stay put at a nearby motel. The motel was way over-priced but feeling tired; I paid the price. The café had good food, as well as a daily special, which made the decision even easier.

 

9 June - Palm Café & Motel - Clam Beach State Park - 40 km

Trinidad’s pretty town and picture-perfect harbour and lighthouse called for a photo stop and shopping at the village store. Not much further, I caught up to another cyclist, and we cycled the few kilometres to Clam Beach campsite. Albeit early, Clam Beach seemed a good enough place to spend the night. The ground, nevertheless, later turned out somewhat exposed and sandy.

 

10 June - Clam Beach – Humboldt Redwood State Park - 95 km

From Clam Beach, country roads took me to Humboldt Redwood State Park. The areas outside the big cities were surprisingly rural.

With its old town and Victorian houses, Eureka made a perfect place to shop for a new tent. Adventures Edge, an outdoor store offering a good selection of camping equipment was just the place. With the new tent strapped to the bike, I was eager to try it out.

Soon afterwards, a turnoff pointed to Avenue of the Giants. What a spectacular sight, to see massive Redwood trees said the tallest trees in the world. These trees can get up to 2,000 years old. Virtually all the trees in the park were between 400 and 600 years old; which is pretty old for a tree.

Red Crescent had no grocery store, and I was pointed down the hill to the previous campsite. I sped downhill only to find no shop, then back up the hill to the next camp. I, luckily, had enough food to see me through. Eager to try the new tent, which was surprisingly easy to pitch and like moving into a new house. Slightly bigger and heavier than the lightweight one-person hiking tent used to date, it turned out a perfect tent made by Columbia, which lasted many years afterwards.

 

11 June - Humboldt Redwood State Park

Humboldt Redwood State Park was so unique it called for a day of hiking. Following cycling the four miles to the shop to stock up, I returned to my spot in the woods. The camp was surprisingly quiet for such a beautiful location, and me the sole camper. Later, more cyclists and Kat (the lady with the dogs) arrived. Our chatter continued until late as she was a fascinating yoga teacher who previously lived in India.

 

12 June - Humboldt Redwoods SP – Standish-Hickey SP - 80 km

The following morning, and in the next village, a family cycle touring the region recommended Standish-Hickey SP. I was told of a substantial hill looming, and best to tackle it on fresh legs. I thought this sound advice and cycled to the said campsite where I was the single camper.

 

13 June - Standish-Hickey SP – Mendocino - 88 km

The next morning, my route ran past the drive-thru tree and I snapped a few more pictures. Afterwards, I continued over the mountain which mercifully wasn’t as severe as predicted. The road soon spat me out at the coast, where a hilly ride took me via Fort Brag and to the next Hike & Bike.

 

14 June - Mendocino - Manchester Beach KOA - 66 km

The day was a short but immensely hilly ride and, as the internet was a priority, I pulled into KOA Manchester Beach thinking such a large and well-known campsite would’ve Wi-Fi as well as laundry facilities. But, unfortunately, the Wi-Fi was a disappointment and only free for an hour. Moreover, my Wi-Fi was quite useless as I never had a connection. The laundry, nevertheless, came in handy and I chucked a few things into the machine.

 

15 June - Manchester Beach KOA - Bodega Bay Dunes State Park - 120 km

The Californian coast was slightly undulating, but a beautiful one that called for numerous photo stops. Then, with good weather and cycling a pleasure, I proceeded to Bodega Bay.

 

16 June - Bodega Bay – San Rafael - 134 km

I veered inland to Bodega City, which offers interesting bits and pieces. The city and bay had a long history. As elsewhere, the Miwoks were the original landowners and the Spanish first surveyed the area in 1775. The Russians claimed the area for King and Country in the 1800s. To this day their legacy remains in names like the Russian River State Marine Recreational Management Area and the Russian River State Marine Conservation Area, two marine-protected areas in the Russian River.

The town was further The Birds’ film location, and the old schoolhouse was still used. Roadworks and detours encountered made a long day on the bicycle.

Eventually, I landed in San Rafael where a motel room became home that night due to a lack of camping. San Rafael was awfully close to San Francisco, but it was already late and I’d enough cycling for one day.

 

17 June - San Rafael – San Francisco - 35 km

A short cycle led over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and into San Francisco. Shortly past the bridge, I met a cyclist who accompanied me to a hostel. Unfortunately, the first one was full. So we continued past the waterfront to the next one, but only after stopping for coffee and a bagel. The Adelaide Hostel turned out lovely (a tad pricy but so were all hostels in SF). It came with a complimentary breakfast and a highly central location.

I used the internet to catch up on online work but discovered that I had lost my daily journal.

I further discovered my phone’s SIM card slot faulty; no wonder my phone never had an internet connection. The Garmin map bought in Seattle never loaded on my device and I sent them an email inquiring regarding what to do. As if that wasn’t enough, my camera lens got stuck (after dropping the camera). Although still functioning, it lost the auto-focus. At the camera store, I bought a new lens. It wasn’t good quality but an 18-200 lens and, hence, one instead of the two previously carted around.

 

18 June - San Francisco

I further visited the computer shop to see if they could retrieve the lost file. The weather in San Francisco was glorious and a good day to take the streetcar to the waterfront. Besides wondering about and blending in, I obtained information regarding a train to Seattle. The news was good as a train departed San Francisco daily at around 22h00 to Seattle.

One still had to put the bicycle in a box, available at the station for $15 plus a $10 handling fee. I further understood all one had to do was go to the AM track office, where the bike and bags would be loaded onto the train. Though the train was from Emeryville, the ticket included a bus ride from the Amtrak office to the train station.

The plan was to return to Seattle and cycle from there, either across Canada or east across the US. In the meantime, my new passport was eventually ready, which my sister forwarded to the hostel in Seattle. Happy days!

 

19 June - San Francisco

With no phone call or email from the computer shop, I took a walk to find out what was happening. Regrettably, they couldn’t recover the lost file, and a big blank remained in the journal.

Garmin never returned the email, and I sent them an additional message; it didn’t make any difference as they never answered emails. Such poor service.

I was eager to get going but could hardly leave without the laptop. I further needed to apply for a Canadian visa, which seemed more trouble than it was worth. The online application was lengthy, and I lost interest even before registering. What a mission!

 

20 June - San Francisco

All these tedious doings were getting to me, and I joined a walking tour of San Francisco. Afterwards, a visit to the computer shop revealed they were still busy, and they advised me to check the following day. However, as the next day was a Saturday, they only opened at 12h00, which meant one more day in San Francisco.

At the hostel, a more serious effort was made to complete Canada’s lengthy and complicated online visa application. My word, it was like applying to become president. Canada wanted all your family information, both dead and alive and therefore, late at night when all was finished.

 

21 June - San Francisco

After breakfast, I picked up my laptop, and once at the hostel, I could complete the visa information. Still, there was no word about what form the visa would take and how it should be collected, and I guessed some form of proof would be emailed. The website gave the estimated processing times for the various offices but not an online application.

Eventually, all was done and even if no processing time was mentioned, I imagined it would be a long wait, in the region of three weeks or more.

 

22 June - San Francisco

I made my way to the Amtrak station. The bike boxes sold were quite large and easy to fit the bicycle once the pedals were removed and the handlebars turned sideways. The remainder of my stuff went into one large bag (bought in China Town). Unfortunately, the train wasn’t due until evening, and I’d a whole day to kill.

The best part of the day was spent trying to rewrite my lost journal - a laborious task - and by evening a short stroll took me downtown to the Amtrak office, from where busses ran to Emeryville.

The train was a strange setup – I’d never seen a double-storey train before. It was extremely comfortable and provided plenty of legroom. It was good because my seat was next to a rather large person. I then realised how difficult it must be to lug such a size around; everything is double the trouble. One constantly needed to feed the body to maintain such a size. All this effort must leave them exhausted by the end of the day.

 

23 June – San Fransisco – Seattle – By train

For the most part my time on the train was spent trying to rewrite the journal, not an easy task taking my goldfish memory. With the help of my photos and Google maps, I reconstructed the past month’s events. It wasn’t perfect and made uninteresting reading but I again lost interest long before the job was done. Fortunately, there was nothing to do, and one couldn’t go anywhere and I was thus forced to finish the job.

The train ride was picturesque, and quite a novelty sitting back and watching the landscape go by without pedalling a single stroke.

The train reached Seattle late; mercifully, the hostel was basically across the road from the train station. Once the bike was reassembled, I packed my belongings and cycled the short distance to the hostel.

 

24-25 June - Seattle

First thing in the morning, a short walk took me to the Canadian Consulate, only to find they had no visa information and didn’t know how to collect it once granted. This lack of info left me no other option than to resume my quest east across the US’s northern states until Canadian access was granted.

The weather was most glorious and perfect to join a walking tour, sampling their world-famous clam chowder while feeding seagulls and watching the sunset.

CYCLE TOURING SOUTH KOREA

                                                         

SOUTH KOREA

 628 Kilometres – 13 Days

 5 May – 21 May 2014

PHOTOS

E-BOOK

5 May - Hong Kong – Seoul, South Korea - By plane

A short taxi ride took me and my meagre belongings to the airport. Once again, the overweight baggage fee was shocking, but nothing one could do but pay and get the job over and done with. The flight from Hong Kong touched down in Seoul three hours later and although I couldn’t draw money I could at least pay by card—what a pain. Priority was thus to contact the bank and I could only hope all would be sorted out by morning.

 

6 May - Seoul

To me, Seoul was merely a name on a map, exceptionally far away and what an exciting city Seoul turned out. The first thing one noticed was how incredibly modern the city was. I believe Seoul was the most technologically advanced city I’ve visited. Even at touristy places, no brochures were available, simply barcode scanners. Even though scanners were used in other countries, this habit was more prevalent in Seoul. That said, the old wasn’t forgotten. Old traditions were alive (albeit with a fake beard and moustache), and one didn’t have to go far to stumble upon an ancient temple or palace, at times right amidst new ones.

 

7 May - Seoul

After taking the bicycle to the bike shop to be reassembled, a short detour took me to the Bukchon Traditional Cultural Centre. Later I popped into Deoksugung, an old palace site where stunning old buildings remained.

On returning, my amble took me through the Namdaemun Market (famous for its street food) to pick up my daily portion of Kimchi. It seemed Kimchi accompanied every meal and was often eaten as the main dish. Kimchi resembled fermented vegetables, sometimes eaten on its own or fried in a pancake. Whichever way prepared, it was delicious and I needed my daily dose. It all made sense as the key to traditional Korean food was fermentation.

 

8 May - Seoul

I’d all intentions of leaving but changed my mind as tons more remained to investigate. Good thing as well, as in picking up camping gas, I discovered a cycle path along the river to Busan. Albeit sceptical, whether the trail led all the way to Busan there was no harm in trying.

I’m not sure what I’d envisaged, but Seoul was utterly different from my expectations. Not merely was the city super modern sporting interestingly designed high-rise buildings. Still, the city was also modern in a funky way, and revealed many cool and cosy-looking coffee shops and restaurants. Old buildings sat comfortably amongst new ones, and narrow pedestrian lanes and malls buzzed with all kinds of goods and food.

Again, I must mention how technologically advanced this city was, as I imagined it enough to make practically anyone feel like Rip Van Winkel. I was convinced no one ever paid in cash; swipe-and-go or scan-and-go was the preferred payment method. I presumed both paper and money would soon be obsolete and hence no surprise to find Seoul, very fittingly, sported a money museum.

I strolled the Cheonggyecheon, an 11-kilometre stream, right in the heart of the city. It’s believed the river was rediscovered after a raised highway was demolition. By then, the area was a peaceful and relaxing space featuring stacks of greenery, public artworks, wooden bridges, and small waterfalls.

 

9 May - Seoul – Yange Pyeong (Yangpyeong) - 91km

More than happy to get on the bike, I headed out of town, grinning from ear to ear at the opportunity to discover this new country. There’s such an amazing sense of freedom cycling in a direction, not quite knowing where you’re heading. While significantly more remained to explore in Seoul, I was eager to hit the road and thus turned my mobile home toward the river and soon landed on the famed cycle path along the mighty Han River. At the time I understood it was the longest bicycle path globally. Moreover, the day was a public holiday, filled with cyclists dressed to the nines.

Twice I met up with other cyclists. The spacious pathway made easy chatting while biking. As a result, I received a stack of information, which came in handy in the coming days.

A wave of joy washed over me, and I realised I didn’t want to do anything else. The best part was that the route ran along the old rail line, resulting in it being flat and all hills avoided by riding through old rail tunnels.

 

10 May - Yangpyeong – Chungju - 100 km

It took the entire day to pedal the 100 kilometres to Chungju. The path made a lovely day of pedalling, offering hundreds of reasons to stop and, in the process, I met a cyclist on his way to Busan. He was the sweetest boy, riding on his road bike with merely a wee backpack. He waited as I slowly slogged up the hills and translated the information boards encountered. Nearly all the signs were in Korean and not useful to me and I was happy with the explanations. At one of these stops, I tried beondegia, a popular snack in Korea. Beondegi was steamed or boiled silkworm pupae, seasoned and eaten as a snack. Unfortunately, I only ate one as it had an unpleasant taste and smell.

In the town of Chungju, I said goodbye to Ben (his English name) and got myself a room while he carried on to the next village.

 

11 May – Chungju – Suanbo Hot Springs - 25km

Departing Chungju, I met another cyclist, this time on a heavily ladened bike. The Koreans were extraordinarily generous and appeared they couldn’t let you go without giving you something. With two energy bars in my pocket, I waved him goodbye and soon reached the small mountain town of Suanbo, famous for its hot spring.

On cycling into town, looking for a place to dip, I heard someone call my name. It was Ben; we’d breakfast together, which turned out quite fascinating. Koreans sit on cushions on the floor and eat from low tables. The dining area was a raised platform; one had to remove one’s shoes before stepping onto the platform. Ben didn’t only pay but escorted me to a spa where he had stayed the previous night.

The spa was my first Jjimjilbang (Korean sauna) experience and resembled a public bathhouse. This interesting set-up offered separate mens’ and ladies’ facilities. Inside were a variety of hot and cold pools. Firstly, you stripped down, then had a shower, then a total scrub down and only then could you enter the pools. No bathing suits are required. Public nudity wasn’t something I was used to and I thought the practice a tad unnerving. It appeared most of the ladies had never seen a foreign woman naked as it felt they never took their eyes off me. I couldn’t wait to submerge myself and stayed underwater until I dared to dash to where I had left my clothes.

The remarkable thing was, in general, these facilities provided napping rooms. They weren’t meant for overnight sleepovers, but generally, cycle tourers used them as such. The room simply had a mat on the floor, but a free place was a free place, even if I didn’t think I could ever get used to a wooden pillow.

 

12 May - Suanbo Hot Springs – Gumio Weir - 103km

It rained all night, but by the time I woke, the weather had cleared and it turned into one more lovely day. The bike route ran through small mountain villages where villagers sat winnowing outside their homes.

I usually prefer inexpensive accommodation and, consequently, often spend the night in establishments where rooms are let by the hour, for purposes other than sleeping. I’ve, thus, had my fair share of oddly shaped beds. However, the bed was a round one this time and offered all the necessary personal care items.

 

13 May - Gumibo Weir - Dalseongo Bridge - 108km

I’m sure freedom means something different to everyone. I look at freedom as living the life I want to live. As I departed, I knew this was my freedom, at least for now. The ride featured incredible vistas as the road stuck close to the river, past small villages, old temples, and lush and green farmlands.

On spotting a nice grassy patch, I thought it was a perfect place to pitch the tent. But unfortunately, the site turned out to be the Millennium Plaza. As a result, the entire area lit up at night, making one feel a bit like a goldfish in a bowl.

 

14 May - Dalseongbo Bridge – Namji - 90 km

When camping at a public square, there’s no sleeping in. After boiling water to make coffee and loading up, I attempted an alternative route. Unfortunately, Miss Smarty Pants’ way didn’t pan out, and she’d to backtrack to that morning’s starting point. The path turned into a hilly ride; sometimes, it required walking the bicycle up the steep gradient. The lack of breakfast soon made dwindling energy and a lunch stop at a trusty 7-eleven came at just the right time. With renewed energy, I tackled the remaining hills. I uncovered digs in Namji, perfect for charging my growing number of gadgets.

 

15 May - Namji – Busan - 111 km

The stretch from Namji to Busan marked my last day of cycling to Busan, and even though stunning, the trail wasn’t without a good few hills. My route took me over the mountains, past villages and fantastic scenery. Being spring, flowers were blooming, making it a pleasure out on the bike.

In the dying moments of the day, the route spat me out in Busan, where I was in no mood to deal with the evening traffic following a few days on the tranquil cycle route. I, nevertheless, had no choice but to brave the traffic in search of budget accommodation.

I always feel half sad and half happy reaching my destination. I thought I cycled through the entire city to get to the centre. Luckily, a tourist information came into view to find all the necessary information. They provided the location of a budget motel in one of the narrow lanes. A lane that transformed itself at night into a food market and a hive of activity.

 

16 May - Busan

As a ferry sailed from Busan to Japan, I searched out the Japanese Consulate, only to find this consulate didn’t issue visas to foreigners. Instead, one had to apply in one’s home country or have a permanent residence card.

Changing course, especially due to circumstances beyond my control, wasn’t one of my favourite situations. I considered packing the bicycle and flying elsewhere a hassle. Not only was it costly, but it took a few days to get back to cycling. Nonetheless, the whole fiasco was my fault as I wasn’t too fond of planning or reading up about countries. It took the surprise out of travelling, but the surprises were sometimes unpleasant.

I could um and ah days on end where to go. The world was vast with numerous options and countless fascinating destinations. But, right then, my options were limited (due to my nearly full passport) to places where visas weren’t required and where one could cycle a few months without changing direction or applying for a visa.

Thus, my best destination was the Americas, as I already had an American visa and had unfinished business in the USA. However, this obvious destination didn’t necessarily mean I would go there. The best would’ve been to return to San Francisco (where I left off last time) and pedal north. It would’ve been the best, weather-wise as well but, as I said, just because San Francisco made sense didn’t mean I would do it.

 

17 - 21 May - Busan

The following day I loaded up and cycled to Blue Backpackers offering more facilities. In the process, a bike shop was uncovered, and the plan was to ride there the next day to acquire a box or bag to pack the bike. Still unsure which direction to go, the decision was best left until the very last minute.

By morning, the bicycle was handed in to be boxed. Though several things needed repairing, I didn’t fix them, as I imagined it better to do so once I’d arrived in my new country (wherever it may be).

Busan was the second-largest city in South Korea, and the metro system was quite extensive. I ventured into the belly of the earth to investigate the famous Buddhist temples, situated on the city’s outskirts. These temples were a pleasure to visit, as they were tranquil and peaceful. South Korea’s temples seemed to have a green tone instead of the red hue in China.

As always, the temples were adorned by the four Heavenly Kings, or gods, each watching over a different direction of the world. They were the protectors of the world and fighters of evil. Wondering around, I started chatting with a small tour group; they kindly offered me a lift to the metro upon departing.

In the city, rows and rows of food stalls sprang up, and one could pick and choose from the large variety of dishes. I’d my fill and returned to the hostel to organise my last few belongings for the exceptionally long flight to Seattle, USA, via Beijing. From Seattle, the plan was to pedal south to San Francisco. The prevailing wind and already having a visa to the USA were the main reasons for this decision.

 

22 May – Busan, South Korea – Seattle, Washington, USA

We flew into Seattle in the early hours of the morning, and what a delightful sight. The exciting part was arriving in Seattle before leaving Beijing. I was, as usual, dead tired, collected my luggage, hailed a taxi and headed to downtown Seattle. The first stop was at a bicycle shop to drop the bicycle and then the hostel which I booked ahead of time.

Once booked in, I, to my horror, discovered I’d left behind my backpack holding all my valuables in the taxi. So, in a flat spin, I contacted Yellow Taxi Cabs. Unfortunately, I’d no number or name to give them, but they’d a lost-and-found section where I could leave my details.

Being sleepy I took a snooze and, upon emerging, discovered my lost bag on the table next to my bed. Of course, I was thrilled (to put it mildly) and did a little happy dance. But then, the taxi driver was the sweetest Somali guy, to whom I chatted non-stop from the airport. I knew if anyone were to return the bag, it would be him. So, a massive thank you to this unknown Somalian taxi driver.

HONG KONG

Hong Kong & Macau 

28 March - 5 May 2014

(0km – 36 Days)

 

28 March - Hong Kong

At seven o'clock the following morning, the bus arrived at the border. After crossing into Hong Kong, I decided to continue by bike but was stopped by police a few kilometres later. They informed me that cycling wasn’t allowed on these roads, and the area had no bicycle-friendly roads leading to Hong Kong. A few minutes later, the same bus I had taken earlier came by and picked me up, which I thought amusing.

Once on Hong Kong Island, I decided to try cycling and asked the bus driver to drop me off. I was amazed by how busy and developed the area was. Skyscrapers and high-rise buildings surrounded me, and buses and trams crisscrossed the island. I felt small and insignificant as I navigated through this massive city.

Finding affordable accommodation in Hong Kong was my top priority. Still, my plans hit a snag when I realised that the World Rugby-7s event was taking place that weekend, making it nearly impossible to secure a place to stay.

After searching, I managed to find a room at Alisan Guesthouse, but it was only their "staff" room which had a small bed and limited space. Despite its shortcomings, it was one of the cheapest options in Hong Kong, so I took it and continued my search for a place to stay for the night as the room was only available from the following day.

The only hotel with rooms available was the Holiday Inn, which made me question its value for money. Nevertheless, I planned to meet with Carlos, a South African friend who lived in Hong Kong, later that evening. Carlos had a meeting on the island, but once he was done, we met for coffee and had a long chat, catching up on the years we had missed. 

29 March - Hong Kong

The main reason for visiting Hong Kong was to obtain a new Chinese visa, so first thing in the morning, I went in search of the China Visa application centre, only to be told the longest they could grant was a seven-day stay. However, a bigger problem was that my passport was almost full, with only two empty pages.

Since access to the room at Alisan was only at 13h00, I roamed the city’s busy streets and was amazed by the large number of rugby fans dressed in their team colours for the big game. Despite my passport crisis, I pretended everything was fine and headed to the port, where a ferry ride across the bay was only $2.80.

Once back on the island, I climbed an escalator that led to Mid-Level. From there, one could walk to the tram station, taking people to the viewpoint. However, I didn't want to wait in the long queue and continued on foot.

The plan was to wait until the following day to search for the South African Embassy to enquire about obtaining a new passport, and then locate the China Resource Centre and see if it was possible to secure a new visa.

 

31 March

My endeavours were fruitless as the embassy informed me that a new passport would take four months. Despite this, I filled out the necessary forms, took pictures, and paid the fee. However, I had no intention of waiting for four months!

At the China Visa Office, the line was incredibly long. When it was my turn, the staff informed me that the maximum stay was 15 days and that one needed to provide proof of accommodation and transportation. I was frustrated and tempted to say, “Fuck that”, but instead, I gathered my things and took a coffee break. Later, I realised that I’d left my recently purchased umbrella behind. At that point, nothing surprised me anymore and best to expect the worst.

At least when the city got too much, there was always a temple nearby, including a few interesting ones. Dwarfed by the high-rises, these tiny temples offered peace and calm in contrast to the hectic city life. Giant incense coils hung from ceilings, from which smoke slowly rose. It's believed some of them can burn as long as three weeks.

To put matters in perspective, without a Chinese visa, I was virtually stuck in Hong Kong, from where it would require flying out. More urgent was a new passport, as most countries needed at least two empty pages.

 

1-3 April - Hong Kong

I revisited the South African embassy, to learn the procedure for my sister to collect my passport in South Africa, and courier it to me, as waiting four months wasn't an option. I then went to the Giant bicycle store to check if they could box the bike as I would be flying out of Hong Kong regardless of my destination. The only positive thing that day was that the umbrella was still at the coffee shop. When I picked up my laundry, I didn't check it as it wouldn't be surprising to find a few items missing. The rest of the day was spent trying to load a Garmin map of South Korea and Japan but to no avail. The only official Garmin map was their "world map," which one couldn't download but had to purchase on a disk or memory card that would be sent to you. Frustrated, I went to a pub, but they didn't have Wi-Fi, which was disappointing. Everything seemed to end in disaster, but I knew this unlucky and disastrous stage would pass.

It had been raining since my arrival in Hong Kong, and the weather wasn't perfect for sightseeing. Still, I considered staying in Hong Kong until the end of the month to give the planets time to align themselves. As I was still unsure about getting the passport, waiting until the end of the month sounded like a good idea, and it would significantly reduce the room rate in this expensive city. I also needed personal maintenance, such as dental work and reading glasses. A facial and pedicure wouldn't hurt either.

The next night, I spent time with Carlos and his wife Melody at a popular drinking spot in the famous Lan Kwai Fong Street. It was a lot of fun, and I didn't get back until the early hours of the morning.

 

4 April

Hong Kong is a hectic and competitive city. It’s said up to 2.8 million of the residents suffer from insomnia, a symptom of its hectic lifestyle, as the most common problem is work stress.

I joined the crowds and pushed and shoved my way along the narrow lanes, and when it got too much, I walked up the mountain to “The Peak”. The walk was pleasant, but as it was misty, there was no view, and I bused myself back to the city's hustle and bustle.

Back on level ground, I headed to the ferry pier and took the Star Ferry across the harbour to Kowloon to visit the night market and a few temples. On the return trip, I snapped a few pics of this famous city skyline.

 

5 April

April 5 was a public holiday called “Tomb-Sweeping Day” (Ching Ming or Qingming Festival). It’s believed that temperatures would rise from this date on, and rainfall would increase, indicating the time to start ploughing and sowing. The day was also for paying respect to the dead by cleaning the tombs and by offering flowers and food, two essential parts of the celebration. With cremation taking over from burying, most only offered flowers and food.

It appeared the younger generation paid their respects by shopping as the streets were jampacked. One could barely move due to the crowds. I headed to the dried food market where one should, at least theoretically, be able to cure all ailments. I don’t know what dried gecko is used for, but if you need it, you can find it in Hong Kong.

 

6 April

With time, I jumped on the MRT to visit the outlying areas and the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery. Due to the constant rain, the temple wasn’t as impressive as expected. What was far more amazing was the fact the Qingming festival was still in full swing.

The monastery was packed with people lighting candles and incense and placing flowers and food for their deceased relatives. I got caught up in the whole ritual. It wasn’t a morbid or serious affair; people were laughing, chatting and having a good time. I further noticed it wasn’t only the deceased’s favourite food that was provided but also, in some cases, a few beers.

On my return to the MRT, I spotted a trail and walked along the path without knowing where it would lead. It turned out to be a stunning walk up the mountain - lush and green without any sign of the city. I continued until the path ended at a Christian Institute with beautiful old buildings.

Keen to visit Po Lin Monastery, I made my way to Lantau. Once there, the bucketing rain, made for leaving the cable car ride for another day.

 

7 April

I visited the New Territories the following day and encountered a strange “tree-house”. Some say the Kam Tin Tree House was originally a study hall with a banyan tree beside it. Others say it was a temple, but what was sure was that, since the abandonment of the building, the banyan tree grew bigger and bigger and eventually wholly enveloped it.

Later, I was surprised to find an old walled village on this overpopulated island. The way of life in this walled village appeared to have remained very traditional. About 400 people live in Kat Hing Wai, and I understood that most still share the same surname.

In Hong Kong, horse racing appeared the main recreational passion among all levels of society. There seemed to be off-course betting branches on every corner. In the 1990s, all stables were moved to Sha Tin Racecourse, equipped with the world’s first parade ring, covered by a retractable roof and a Diamond Vision television screen that set a Guinness World Record. Hong Kong was said to have the highest racing revenue turnover in the world. Seeing the crowds studying racing papers, I could believe it.

 

8 April

Carlos introduced me to the local hiking group, and I went on the first of many hikes with them. At first, the weather was good, but once at the top, it started raining, and it continued raining on the return trip. Besides being wet, the walk was lovely. It's incredible to think it only takes 20 minutes to leave this megacity and find yourself in a lush and rural setting. Afterwards, Carlos and I went for a much-needed coffee, dripping water all over the coffee shop.

As the days passed, I became increasingly fond of Hong Kong. The city ran like a well-oiled machine, 24 hours a day. I loved the sounds of the town; the buses, the trams, the cars, the subways, the chatter at the sidewalk eateries, the distant music, the police sirens and car alarms. This constant humming made me feel at home and secure. The sounds relaxed me, and I drifted off to sleep, knowing the world was alive and well, without me caring for it.

 

9 April

As mentioned before, I stayed in Hong Kong to do a few things I’d neglected during the years. I, however, had so much fun I never got around to those tedious tasks. Finally, a hair appointment was made, and the day was spent at the hairdresser. I got the recommendation from Melody, and, interestingly enough, the salon's owner was a South African lady. With the hair done and dusted, I could at least tick one thing off the to-do list. Most people enjoy having their hair done, but I didn’t like anyone fiddling with it and was usually irritated when I got out of there.

 

10 April

The weather finally cleared, and good use of it was made by taking the bus to the top of Victoria Peak to see if one could get any pictures of the city. As always, it was a stunning bus ride, and the view from the top was equally impressive. Half of Hong Kong and all its visitors had the same idea.

 

11 April

I was off on my second hike early in the morning with the hiking group. Again, a beautiful walk along what was known as the Dragons’ back. We ended up at a scenic beach for lunch. That evening, I met with Mat (whom I met on the Tour d’Afrique ride) for a drink; it was good to see him, and I couldn’t believe he still looked the same after ten years. It seemed I was the only one ageing at a rapid rate.

 

12 April

The next day, I met Carlos and his daughter Natalie at Lantau Island, where we took the famous Ngong Ping cable car to see the Buddha. This 5.7-kilometre-long cable car stretched up the side of the mountain to the Po Tin Monastery. With views over Lantau Island and beyond, the ride is spectacular. It took climbing 268 steps to the 34-metre-high bronze Buddha which sat on a lotus leaf keeping a watchful eye over the island.

After visiting the Buddha, we bussed ourselves down the mountain, an equally spectacular ride. The small fishing village of Tai O, famous for its shrimp paste and its stilted houses made an interesting stop. A narrow footpath ran through the village, passing dried fish products, and I sadly spotted dried seahorse. With rumbling tummies, we made our way to a restaurant, and low and behold, would it not be South African, known as “The Stoep”. The location was fantastic - right on the beach, and the food was equally good. They served all the old favourites: bobotie, tomato bredie, and they even had a “braai”.

 

13 April

One of my highlights was joining Carlos and Melody on a family outing. We caught the ferry to Lamma Island, where a walking trail took us to a small fishing village for lunch. The walk led past stunning scenery and an old Kamikaze Cave, which, I believe, was constructed by the Japanese to house a flotilla of suicide motorboats.

Melody ordered (and paid for everything), and massive plates of food promptly arrived. The food (as usual) was delicious; although we did our best, we couldn’t finish it. After lunch, a ferry and bus ride took us to Stanley Market, where one could trundle around for hours. While having coffee, Melody returned with beautiful sandalwood fans for Natalie and me. I was spoiled rotten. As we strolled the market's narrow lanes, I as a gift admired a top but decided to give it a miss. On my return, I found Natalie had bought it for me. How generous of her. Too soon, the sun started setting, and it was time to return home.

 

14 April

I did nothing all day except sorting out photos and updating my diary. Afterwards, a tram ride took me to Kennedy Town, and I later returned for a foot massage. I had the whole treatment (including the tea - as it’s said to boost circulation and free the flow of the qi).

 

15 April

A tram took me downtown and to the local chop shop street. Instead of a signature, traditionally, people used hand-carved seals or stamps, typically in stone or jade, with their family name written in Chinese. These stamps were known as “chops”, and many say that, in a company, whoever holds the chop holds control.

Chop Alley was a little street lined with shops where you could get your personalised chop made at a very reasonable price. All shops had a beautiful array of choices and styles – round, square, irregular, and various sizes and colours.

The dried fish street was equally fascinating. To an outsider, the ingredients seemed an overwhelming random jumble. But I was told they were all carefully selected for their contributions to yin and yang, chosen to create balance in the body by traditional Chinese medicine. For instance, dried seahorses were used to remedy kidney and respiratory ailments and were said to help balance and clear up skin.

 

16 April - Macau

The following day was fun and exciting as I joined Melody, Carlos and Natalie for a daytrip to Macau. The ferry to Macau only took an hour, and what a fascinating little country. Macau was tiny and only measured 115 square kilometres. Being a former Portuguese colony, it was very different from Hong Kong. Firstly, the two official languages were Cantonese and Portuguese, and although Macau was equally populated, it seemed to have more low-rise areas. Well-known for its gambling halls, Vegas is the only place that eclipses Macau in gambling income. The big difference is that, beyond the gambling halls, one could find cobblestoned streets with a curious mix of Chinese temples and Portuguese buildings. The ruins of the Church of St. Paul, where only the façade remains, draw crowds of tourists, and it took a walk up the hill to get any half-decent picture.

Later, we dined at a Portuguese restaurant, after which we strolled around the massive casinos and stared in awe at the money spent.

 

17 April

A fun day was spent on a walkabout with the local photography group. The theme was visual density and great fun. I, once again, realised just how talented these people were - wow. Once done, we met for a beer, and by the time I went home, I was just in time to watch the light show at the waterfront. It was a beautiful, clear evening, and it was magical to be out watching the show.

 

18 April

Hong Kong was an extremely liveable city, and everything was convenient. I have to mention the Octopus card, which didn’t only get you on a bus, tram or ferry, but it could pay for your supermarket shopping, parking, fast food, sandwich and coffee shops, and a round of drinks in a pub. You just swiped and go. I loved it.

Up earlier than usual, I headed to Hong Kong’s New Territories. The further away from the city centre, the quieter the metro became. The plan was to locate the seldom-visited Ping Shan Heritage Trail. The walk was short but interesting; my favourite part was the moon gate at Chin Shu.

Miss Smarty-Pants took the camera but had no memory card. Oh well, at least it allowed me to experiment with the phone camera. Afterwards, I stopped off at the Wetlands Park, but being a holiday, the park was packed with families enjoying their day off. Someone said about 60% of the land in Hong Kong was countryside; with the land supply so tight and the need for accommodation so high, I wondered how long the country parks would remain.

 

19 April

I joined a lovely group on a short night hike that day. It took no more than 10 minutes, and we were out of the city and into the woods. Being a clear evening with great views, we chatted nonstop as we ambled along. Afterwards, the group again stopped at Slims for beer and snacks. What a great evening, and what a friendly group of people. Hong Kong is very cosmopolitan, and more than half the hikers were people from other countries residing in Hong Kong.

 

20 April

It felt like I had truckloads of karmic debt. The Universe had blessed me with so much love and random acts of kindness I didn’t think I could ever repay it. Today, I discovered someone had paid my Ace membership on the 365-project. How awesome was that?

 

21 April

My visit to the New Territories was to visit Carlos and Melody, and I was again impressed with the convenience of amenities in Hong Kong. Their complex was just as convenient, with everything one needed close by, from parks to shopping centres, movie houses and restaurants.

 

22 April

An online company was located which could arrange South African passports in as short as 15 days (instead of the embassy’s four months). After completing the forms, I decided against it due to the hefty price tag. The price, I should mention, included a courier service which collected and delivered the documents and passport.

The time arrived for the dreaded dentist appointment, which was never pleasant, but it had to be done. A follow-up appointment was made for the third, which was later than expected. I was getting itchy feet and was keen to get going.

 

23 April

A rainy morning made the perfect time to update travel logs and have a pedicure (long overdue, I should mention).

The best thing about Hong Kong was that it was probably one of the safest places in the world. There is no need for a “reclaim the night” movement here. I like that one could walk home late at night without worrying about personal safety.

Another reason I like Hong Kong is how cosmopolitan it is. Ethnic Chinese comprised the bulk of its population, but there is a sizeable presence of expatriates and people of different ethnicities. Many Indians could trace their roots in Hong Kong to when India was under British rule. Sikh soldiers participated in the flag-raising ceremony in 1841 when Hong Kong was declared British. It’s believed the earliest police officers in Hong Kong were Indians (Sikhs), and during my stay, the police force still had a few Indian members.

 

24 April

My early start was due to meeting hikers on Lantau Island for yet another hike. This time, the group followed the Olympic trail, which headed over the mountain to Discovery Bay, where lunch was had. With it being foggy, there was no view, but it was still an enjoyable walk past small rural settlements, something I didn’t expect in such a congested country.

 

25 April

The old streets of Hong Kong were lined with Chinese medicine shops that sold all sorts of exotic products, from herbal medicines to dried snake meat. In between the suppliers of the dried goods were TCM practitioners, some with a pot or two of prescribed herbs simmering in earthenware pots. I guessed they were good; otherwise, they wouldn’t still be around.

 

26 April

Walking the “Avenue of Stars”, I only recognised one person, the famous Bruce Lee. That evening, the hiking group again went on a short night hike. Carlos joined the walk, and we ended up at Slims for a beer and a shared plate of nachos.

 

27 April

I was sure getting my share of hiking as I set off on another hike. This time, we ended up at Stanley on the other side of the island. Some hikers left after the walk, but most stayed for lunch. Afterwards, a few beers were bought from the 7-Eleven, and we sat on the beach enjoying it.

 

28 April

First thing in the morning, I searched for a post office and mailed a letter to Amanda, permitting her to pick up the passport on my behalf. Gosh, I haven’t posted anything in years. It suddenly felt so old-fashioned. The stamps were, however, beautiful. After that little task was done, I continued to Kowloon and handed in my camera to be cleaned.

 

29 April

Just after midday, I joined Carlos for a walk along the old Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. It was a fascinating walk through 5 of the ancient walled villages. Most of these villages are enclosed by brick walls and fitted with an entrance typically facing east to generate a good feng shui. We met another traveller and joined forces for the rest of the walk. We ended up in Kowloon, where Carlos treated us to coffee.

 

30 April

For once, I had nothing planned and visited the hairdresser for hair treatment. As usual, it took forever; at least they offered you a glass of wine while waiting. Afterwards, I searched for a new nose ring, as I’d been wearing the same one for decades.

 

1 May

I caught wind of another photography walk, and being May Day (or Worker’s Day), the theme was “People at work”. With a beautiful bunch of people, we explored the markets and streets and, like the previous time, met for beer and to share photos.

 

2 May

As almost no one in Hong Kong had a garden the city’s urban parks were very well used and clever landscaping meant it never felt crowded. I was getting itchy feet and couldn’t wait for the 5th to move on. There was only one more dental appointment on the 3rd, and it couldn’t come soon enough.

With only two blank pages left in my passport, it would require jumping through some hoops to avoid countries requiring visas, or at least until the new passport arrived. Therefore, I opted for South Korea.

 

3 May

Finally, the third arrived, and I cycled the short distance to the bike shop to have the bike boxed, after which I visited the dentist and only emerged a few hours later. After all was done and in the company of Carlos and Melody, we had one last meal before my departure.

 

4 May - Hong Kong

I booked a dive and was up early to get the MTR to the pier because I had a day free. Our dive boat was impressive and resembled a liveaboard, with cabins, a lounge, a kitchen and a deck area - all very fancy. The dive, however, was a bit of a disappointment as the visibility was poor, and one could hardly see anything at all—at least the food made up for the poor dive as it was excellent. I didn’t even bother doing a second dive, which should tell you something about the poor quality of the water.

 

5 May - Hong Kong – Seoul, South Korea - By plane

With my meagre belongings packed, I hailed a taxi to the airport. The baggage fee came as a shock, but there wasn’t anything one could do but pay and get it over and done with. The flight arrived in Seoul three hours later (but the time difference made it four hours). It was discovered I couldn’t draw money but could at least pay with the card—what a pain. I contacted the bank and hoped it would all be sorted out by morning. At least I was on the move again.